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I have been having this problem of stylus keep falling off from the silo.
Does anyone know how to fix it??
Thanks.
I don't know the solution (never needed it) but i remember seeing posts with tips when i registered last year. You must make a more extensive search
I put a piece of scotch tape around mine and I've had no problems since I did that. One wrap around was enough to keep it snug - right in the middle of the stylus.
here you go, maby it will help someone:
http://www.pdagold.com/articles/detail.asp?a=274
I've been having this problem,and just tried this solution. Give me a day and I'll tell you how it works out
Edit:
Well, it's been a day, and the stylus is being held in there better than ever. Definitely a recommended fix if you are having this problem
yeah, i find that the scotch tape trick works perfect. i put it right around the "neck" of the stylus - that would be nearest to the gray head part.
Falling Stylus
I've read on a website, don't have any link anymore, that if you will turn your mobile on the back, and remove your battery, there will be 2 openings where you can see some steel. If you take some sort of pen, or mini-screwdriver you can push against it, and when it clicks, your stylus must be a little tighter in his case. Didn't test it, because i lost my stylus because of the same problem
coldejong said:
I've read on a website, don't have any link anymore, that if you will turn your mobile on the back, and remove your battery, there will be 2 openings where you can see some steel. If you take some sort of pen, or mini-screwdriver you can push against it, and when it clicks, your stylus must be a little tighter in his case. Didn't test it, because i lost my stylus because of the same problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah me too did it last year in sep2007.my kjam since then works well & i haven`t lost any thing up to date.
precaution- there are some plastic parts so pls be carefull
Solution to stylus falling out
I bought some sticky tack (you can get it at office supply stores) and placed a small amount in the channel. That seems to hold my stylus in with no problems.
Tape option is the best. I lost two stylus due to falling stylus and this time I put a small amount of tape on the outer edge and its perfectly fit in the phone. No more falling stylus.
I opened the phone, added a drop of hot-glue behind the little plastic pin and it holds the stylis like it was new.
The same trick I also applied to my universal, only there I added a bit to much, and the stylus now doesn't come out easily, so I need to use a little more force.
Before we were so rudely interrupted in the original thread, we were discussing the G1 hardware keyboard replacements. Please folks, if you must flame each other do it via PMs to avoid locking legitimate threads.
I've been able to find some inexpensive after market replacements on eBay, but still am not sure how difficult it is to actually do that. All the sites I've been able to find on the subject only provide time-lapse dis-assembly instructions of the entire phone. If anyone has done the replacement themselves, I'd greatly appreciate pointers on how to keep my phone operational after I put it back together.
I replaced the white keyboard in my Dream with a black one. It was a scary operation as it takes a bit of force to dismantle. I accidently pulled my antenna off and disconnected a flylead. ment my phone had no signal at all. later when i got home (did it in work ) i took it apart again and fixed it.
Take your time and have patience, alot of it is plastic and clipped together so requires a bit of force.
May I ask what is wrong with the keys on the bronze one? I did a quick skim of the old post and gather that you can't see the keys in daylight but I don't get why?
I'm just genuinely interested, I have a black G1 so never had such a problem.
brummiesteven said:
May I ask what is wrong with the keys on the bronze one? I did a quick skim of the old post and gather that you can't see the keys in daylight but I don't get why?
I'm just genuinely interested, I have a black G1 so never had such a problem.
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Click to collapse
It's the combination of silver keys with light-silver backlight that make the lettering almost impossible to see in day light conditions. I'd take a picture if I had a camera with me today. Whoever came up with that color combination should be fired. Or at least made to stare at it every day for the next year. I have to tilt the keyboard at a weird angle just to distinguish the letters. From what I understand the white G1s suffer from the same problem.
The "Backlight Off" app definitely helps as it lets you toggle the backlight with a keyboard shortcut. I'm looking for a more hardware solution though.
I've been thinking about changing keyboards and housings too. But from what ppl are saying it seems to be pretty exhaustive. Do any of you guys have the service manual? I DL'ed it from somewhere and it goes through each step of disassembly and also shows assembly. I'm sure it would help out to give an idea of what you need. But like I said, even having read the service manual, it's still quite scary.
A full housing from my understanding is a bitc(....doing the KB I can see why. The LCD portions look ridiculously complex in comparison to other phones.
That said if you have the proper tools , good organization or memory , steady hands and patience really shouldnt be "that" tough to do the keyboard.
Heres the thing. Its really not that hard to unscrew things etc...but the piece you need to move in order to get proper access to the KB has 2 ribbons that are a PAIN IN THE ASS to take off and put back properly. Theres so little room for error.If youve never worked with ribbons before BE CAREFUL.
I will say G1 is pretty unique in how its put together , I swear they were determined to make it as complicated as possible
The really pain in the ass part is that the online manual/guide will merely tell you something like "remove part A" but no explanation how. Theres also 2 screws I swear it glossed over leading to frustration when I did the trackball/front keys.
Torx 5 and really good mini screw driver are mandatory.
Nice lil workstation is really helpful..(masking tape ,towel , table lamp or LED headlamp , vitamin/pill cases etc)
Im no mechanical engineer but Ive opened up damn near everything Ive ever owned at some point. Took me a solid 3 hours from start to finish. With major time spent on organizing the screws pieces and those damn ribbons.
I will say the black KB makes a HUGE difference. Black key on the front arent necessary but do look better and add much needed contrast.
KOF33 said:
I will say the black KB makes a HUGE difference. Black key on the front arent necessary but do look better and add much needed contrast.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pics, or it didn't happen
Thanks for the tips!
Chahk said:
Pics, or it didn't happen
Thanks for the tips!
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Click to collapse
As you can see I also replaced the trackball with a glowing white one.
lol at the trackball
doing a case swap is only bad the first time LMAO. I learned a lot, like for example the brass inserts that the screws go into...are not pre-installed. You must CUT Them out of the old housing and HAMMER them into the new oneBut in the end, it turned out very nice.
As far as just replacing the keyboard, it isnt too bad actually once you know what screws hold what down!
-Remove the 6 torx screws for the back housing
-GENTLY pry open the TOP of the casing with a plastic case tool, work your way down to the bottom of the housing. The bottom is a PITA to remove. I usually get it by rocking it gently back and forth
-remove the long and short coax leads from the motherboard side. swing them out of the way
-peel back the tape and GENTLY pull the bottom connector (mouthpiece module) from the motherboard.
-peel back more tape and lift the latch for the keyboard connector (the one on the side)
-Peel the camera module up SLOWLY (it is double side taped down) as well as the imei card. The cam cable is routed under it, lift it all as a unit. When you get to the motherboard, STOP
-Now, gently twist the whole camera and motherboard unit as a whole until it is free of the latch on the side. Gently lift the camera end exposing the 2 small ribbon connectors on the bottom.
-Peel back the tape and GENTLY lift the ribbon connectors out of the board. Place the motherboard/camera unit to the side for now.
-Remove all the black and silver screws for the metal piece. The lcd should stay in place as the mouthpiece plastics kinda hold it for you, but you should still support it to keep from hurting the connections.
-Viola, keyboard access. Remember when you put it back together be sure to re-tape all the connections, else when you drop your phone one of them may pop loose.
Keeping the motherboard and camera/imea plate all as one module saves you from a very difficult connection and will help you keep everything aligned when reassembling it.
I guess the spacebar has 2 functioning buttons, (left and right) ... well my right side just konked on me, and i was wondering if a replacement keyboard off ebay will fix this, or are they just the button "covers"?
the "buttons" are just plastic nubs that make contact on a board behind it. That board would be what you need. I dont know if there are any on eBay, but I have a spare one if you want to PM me for details.
I dropped my G1 about 6 months ago and was devastated. After entirely too much research I finally got the guts to purchase a replacement digitizer and managed to install it successfully. However, in the process I managed to rip the LCD ribbon cable. I then had to order a replacement LCD screen. I've also damaged one of the black ribbon cables pretty severely causing the touchscreen to become unresponsive sporadically. I've just placed an order for one of those ribbon cables and will hopefully have that up and running soon. I've also purchased an entire new housing unit to rebuild the phone to make it look as new.
Now when I first took this thing apart I was by NO MEANS an expert or have ever done something like this before. I'm just an avid enthusiast who wanted to save a little money, feel a sense of accomplishment and to learn a few things along the way. I technically paid nearly the same amount of money it would have cost me to send the unit to HTC for repair, however i've learned everything there is to know about my phone's hardware. I know which board does what and are extremely confident about fixing ANY hardware problem in the future.
If you have the time, patience, and truly want to become confident about the workings of your phone, then I highly recommend fixing it yourself. I've bought my parts for VERY cheap off of reputable ebay buyers. You can find EVERY single piece for your phone on Ebay. My LCD has 1 dead pixel, but I guess that's the risk you take when you buy really cheap parts.
Hope this helps.
*Note i have not experienced whether the product lives up to its name or not. I only JUST placed it on my device. This is simply my first impression.
**I included pictures of my device compared to the back parts of the adhesive so you can fully grasp the wonderful "custom to fit" experience.
I just now got as close to perfection as i think i am going to get with placing my "custom to fit" screen protector onto my device. At very first glance i saw that their were going to be some slight imperfections. The random circle on the top right of the adhesive was a dead giveaway. The cut out they have for the top speaker and the bottom row of buttons is hardly CLOSE to the size it should be. It is much too big. I am not sure if it is clear enough in the pictures but their is excess adhesive on the sides. I figured they may be meant to fold down to protect a minuscule amount of siding. At first i could not get it to stick on the sides. But after giving it a few minutes to settle and let the application spray* dry, it seems to be holding. However, the border has really ugly bubbles from the very tony inlay of the front of the phone. The instructions say that MICRObubbles will disappear in their own after a couple days... i hardly find these MICRObubbles though. We will see. I think it is almost supposed to have a "melting" effect on the device. Like heated plastic sort of taking the proper shape over the device.
Now we move onto the back. You will see that i have been given 3 holes instead of 2. (2 being the camera lens and the button underneath). I have no idea what the third was meant for.... I can also forget about taking the backing off of my device as it is now sealed shut with the plastic invisible shield. This doesn't bother me that much since i rarely ever have to take the back out but i know their will be a day where i will need to.
All-in-all the product LOOKS promising still. The bottom line here that i would like to make is that i have NO idea what TouchPro2 they are basing this off of. but it is far from mine. Too far. I need to check but i am also fairly certain they ask for your provider too (in case the device is different than others)
I am also still wondering about the excess sides. it is very random in the back but they make no mention of needing to trim the shield.
*They give you a spray that you use on your fingertips and the adhesive so that a. you dont give it fingerprint smudges and b. it doesnt fully stick right away so that you can "slide" it into place. I found that "sliding" it around was impossible because it still stuck but it did not stick enough to the point i was unable to retry.
I really hope this means something to somebody. Had i read something like this before hand, i may have thought longer on buying the product. I will be sure to write more in the next few days. By the feel of the material on my phone, it seems like it could work really well.
I would also love to know other people's experience with this product and even maybe correct me if anything i complained about was just due to stupidity.
It very much looks like you bought Invisible Shield for the wrong Touch Pro 2 model.
It looks like you have the one for the unlocked/unbranded model:
http://www.zagg.com/invisibleshield/htc-touch-pro-2-cases-screen-protectors-covers-skins-shields.php
When in fact you want the T-Mobile model.
http://www.zagg.com/invisibleshield/htc-touch-pro-2-t-mobile-cases-screen-protectors-covers-skins-shields.php
It looks like the shape of your T-Mob branded TP2 is actually quite different from the unbranded version. The shape of the shield is therefore quite different between the models, based on the pictures on the Zagg website. Also, the layout of the battery cover is totally different, which is why the cutouts on the shield don't match your battery cover. This also accounts for the 3rd small hole on this piece. In addition to the camera lens and speakerphone button, the unbranded TP2 has small holes for the speaker just below the speakerphone button, and that is what the 3rd hole in the shield is for. I'm guessing on the T-Mob version, the speaker hole is located as part of the larger cutout/hole.
Not to be mean but it's really obvious that it wasn't made for a T-Mobile Touch Pro2 and you should have known that it wasn't the right one.
Just going to the Touch Pro2 forums you can see that there's different versions of the device and ours is usually always referred as the "T-Mobile Touch Pro2" when being specific.
The cover does seem worth buying though.
Yeah i just inquired about it. I did buy the T-Mobile one and they just sent the wrong one.
redpoint73 said:
In addition to the camera lens and speakerphone button, the unbranded TP2 has small holes for the speaker just below the speakerphone button, and that is what the 3rd hole in the shield is for. I'm guessing on the T-Mob version, the speaker hole is located as part of the larger cutout/hole.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oddly, the Tilt2 had little holes in the back case in the same spot, despite the fact that it is just the battery sitting behind the holes. I always figured it was just a way to give water quick access to the battery compartment to turn that little strip pink incase we ever dropped it somewhere damp...
Hi,
I recently purchased a HD2 on eBay. It was supposed to come immaculate but unfortunately there are dents on almost all corners. Rest if perfect.
I saw on eBay some chinese sellers selling new housing + battery covers for ~25 USD. So why not replacing the housing then? I decided to give it a try.
Well I have to say that it really did not work like in the videos I saw on youtube. I removed the 4 screws under the battery cover, gently pressed the back of the LCM outward but it really refused to pop out (no even half an inch). I discarded the pry tool (a very thine credit card actually) and even tried using a suction cup on the digitizer to pull it backwards but same problem. It's like the LCM/chassis was glued on the bezel. Phone has never been disassembled before (white sticker and void screw were still both there).
This is strange because in all the videos I saw the LCM/middle chassis was clearly not glued on the bezel. It immediately popped out a bit then you could start prying (and praying!). Ok I know that in those videos usually the phone has already been disassembled before so other attempts require less force to do it again for the recording.
My questions now to all the people who managed to do this. Did this require so much force? Is there a change and is HTC now glueing this part the LCM/middle chassis to the bezel? Any suggestion? Where is for you the best place to insert the pry tool when you start?
Thanks and regards,
Try flexing the plastic bezel above the earphone outwards a little while applying slight pressure to the sticker area on the back. There're two notches above which locks the frame to the pcb.
Hi,
Thanks for your help.
I will try that later.
I guess I might need to find a better pry tool.
BR.
Ok I managed to do it.
This required clearly some force on the pry tool (actually I used two plastic cards : a very thin and flexible one than a credit card). I started the operation above the earphone area.
Applying pressure on the sticker area was stresfull because the LCD immediately reacted to the pressure (hence a risk to break it or damage it). Best was to put two fingers on the sticker area to help the LCM module to pop out but with (almost) no pressure.
I had a doubt and now that I managed to remove the housing it's gone. The antennas (those white stuff you see in both top corners and at the bottom) are glued to the housing.
I prefer to spend a few more bucks to take a housing which has those antennas already in.
BR.
i had a similar frustrating experience to yours in trying to snap the back off the chassis on my hd2 which had a fingerprint on the *inside* of the camera cover glass which i needed to open it to get at.
it sure looks easy in that HTC disassembly video on youtube but the tech there is using a sort of plastic hooked tool for the job, which i didn't have, so i used my thumbnail instead in the same place (the upper left corner, looking at the phone from the front) and it took me a good 20 minutes of applying what seemed like unreasonable pressure to my touchscreen and nearly tearing my nail off to get it to pop out.
those snap-tabs the electronics manufacturers use to hold cases together -- even when they also have screws to do the job -- are one of my all-time pet hates. i usually end up breaking them off.
I will be doing the same thing soon. So the housing you removed has antennas glued to it ?. Thanks for that, I will try get new housing with antenna together if possible.
I replaced my screen a while back and can confirm the main body of the hd2 is glued to the sides of the chassis.
It does come out but with a lot of force but pry the glue lose around the whole chassis first by sliding a thin card right ot the bottom of the case and slowlyu move and pry it upwards with 2 cards one on the top and other on the right after you losend the glue. the top has the wifi adapter n that so be careful bottom has usb so mite break.
honestly i would say don't bother replacing it and just get a gel case or something to hide the damage. there's a high chance of messing the digitizer up and would just cause you more trouble of taking the whole phone apart bit by bit and trust me the components are tiny so easily breakable especially the ribbon cables they decided to use. my honest opinion don't
fallenmonk said:
I will be doing the same thing soon. So the housing you removed has antennas glued to it ?. Thanks for that, I will try get new housing with antenna together if possible.
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Click to collapse
yep they are white thin bits glued to the top portion of the case. wifi on left and phone on right if i remember. its been quite a while though since i took my old hd2 apart
Now that I know how to do this I will be easier next time.
Yes antennas are glued in the housing so best is to buy a housing which has antennas already in.
Important note : the antenna which is at the bottom of the housing exists in two different versions : EU or US so check with the seller which one he sells.
BR.
Top left : Amphenol-BT&Wifi-090820
Top right : Amphenol-GPS-090820
Bottom : Amphenol-EU-090828
If T-Mobiles US you need Amphenol-US
sirec said:
I replaced my screen a while back and can confirm the main body of the hd2 is glued to the sides of the chassis.
It does come out but with a lot of force but pry the glue lose around the whole chassis first by sliding a thin card right ot the bottom of the case and slowlyu move and pry it upwards with 2 cards one on the top and other on the right after you losend the glue. the top has the wifi adapter n that so be careful bottom has usb so mite break.
honestly i would say don't bother replacing it and just get a gel case or something to hide the damage. there's a high chance of messing the digitizer up and would just cause you more trouble of taking the whole phone apart bit by bit and trust me the components are tiny so easily breakable especially the ribbon cables they decided to use. my honest opinion don't
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i don't believe it's glued. as far as i can see the the case is held together with screws and plastic interlocking tabs. the trick is to get the latter to unclip.
No glue indeed just notches locking the LCM module to the bezel
Ok case closed
I got my new housing and the replacement went fine. For those who could be interrested I bought it on ebay from the seller forceviewer_uk in China. Everything went perfect so I can recommend this guy.
So, as we all know the Omate TrueSmart is as waterproof as a leaky boat, or perhaps a sponge.
However, I don't think there are any other Horologists on the forum at the moment. ( wikipedia horologist http:// en.wikipedia.org /wiki/horologist ).
After looking at the "seals" on the case buttons, and the laughable o-ring that Umeox/Omate have chosen to use on the back, along with the piece of silicone flap that they are using to seal the SIM card... I have to say that expecting it to be water resistant to any degree is a bit laughable.
So, I have a solution, the same one used by Rolex, Omega, Breitling, Citizen, Seiko, etc.. etc...
* Liquid silicone sealant gel on the SIM card seal and flap.
* Replace the silicone o-rings for the watch back with a thin silicone gasket, with more sealant gel
* Retrofit and replace the button seals, or create black silicone button covers that better seal them
I'm going to have to look at the speaker port on the watchband. I don't know if there is a simple solution there to make it compliant for 1 meter depth without severely affecting the quality of the sound output from that port. A brief examination makes it seem that the port -might- be able to take IP67 conditions .. but without reinforcement, I doubt it could take the forces involved in a swim, waves, wakes, spas.
Still, I think I can put together a kit, and instructions that careful and diligent people could use to retrofit the TrueSmart to make it far more waterproof than the manufacturer does. The kit would cost between $15 and $25 US, mostly to cover the cost of making custom molds for the silicone gaskets. ( There is a local TechShop here in Austin, and I have a CNC mill to make the aluminum molds, and all the design experience and software I need. Even so, a small super-accurate mold is a couple hundred dollars worth of materials and work. )
If there is enough interest evidenced here on a poll, I'll make the kit.
Sincerely,
Martin Bogomolni
Maker, Horologist, Coder, and Machinist
Need to redesign the case so that the speaker is sealed as well.
I've read that the O-rings are different among different runs. If the shape of the part of the case they fit against is different as well, wouldn't that make this effort require potentially as many different molds as the number of firmwares Loki has been trying to contend with? Or is it just the ring that's been different?
The case design is different. There's at least two maybe three.
Then that means I'll need to make two or three variants of the kit. This will also require some externally-visible way to identify the differences between various batches of TrueSmart watches.
Lokifish Marz said:
The case design is different. There's at least two maybe three.
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Click to collapse
I think, just an opinion, that if the gasket between the body and the back cover has holes for the screws to pass through it like on my Last of the Kickstarter Dev Eds, 1/8/1900, delivered first of the USA group in early Feb, then that gasket works if properly placed and screwed together. The housing on these is flat, without raised screw hole posts and no groove.
I think the main problem you are going to need to overcome is the buttons and the mic pinhole leaking.
The speaker, if it doesn't mind getting wet itself, provides no entry path into the body if the wire set going in has been properly sealed inside (white sealant on mine, I think). Water could destroy the speaker, OK maybe, but not the watch unless it can follow the speaker connections back up into the body. Where the band halves meet the body on both sides there is a hole through the body to let the cables through, sealed inside with some white stuff. Maybe sealed...
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
The speaker is inside the case (under the square "bump" in the backplate) and uses nothing more than double sided tape. It is partly held into place by the plastic insert.
What is that open slot for then, in the band on the speaker side ?
Where the sound comes out ?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Yep. (see attached image)
Yes I was also curious about how the waterproofness of the speaker and microphone port would be approached. But I'm definitely down for one of these.
For what it's worth, I've submerged (no more than 2ft) my NA 1gb/8gb OTS and used it in the shower after having opened the bottom. During the first week I was constantly checking inside the case for internal moisture and didn't see any. It's been a while, but I remember thinking the physical buttons looked like they would let water in if used while underwater, but that didn't seem to happen.
for giggles, my omate arrived with bad software, and only pulling the battery would fix it. I had first tried letting the battery die out but the vcom drivers didn't fully take until i pulled the battery, so the water seal warranty was moot from early on. I don't remember how long I waited, but I sent the following screen to cecilia and a few other mailboxes at omate for help with no response (surprise!) before pulling the battery and stepping through the restore guides.
Looking back, I can't even imagine how the bootloader got to be so trashed! Volume up and down you say?
I am in. Also shared on G+ and KS comments the poll, good luck!
Yep
I'm definitely in support of this. I created a kayaking app that is pretty useless with the watch the way it is... having this kit out there would be great.
Hi. I am a watchmaker (horlogist?) from Germany and its my daily job to make watches watertight.
I have access to professional measuring devices for checking the watches if they are sealed. It is testet via air pressure, no water. The watchcase deformation is measured by fine sensors and if it is deforming in the given parameters then the device says proof or leak. There are ranges from -0,8 Bar to +20 Bar.
Further tests to locate the leak are made with water tests.
I havent received my pre ordered true smart yet (but I own a simvalley AW-414.go). Before I would test the true smart I would like to know how much pressure it could take before the screen brakes.
After the long wait and seeing this IPx7 drama unfold, I decided to just flip my TrueSmart on delivery - and flog it on eBay/Amazon without ever opening the box. Depending on the delivery timeline and other factors (such as the impending release of the Polar V800 and Garmin fenix 2) I may reconsider that strategy if this "aftermarket waterproofing" plan gains momentum.
I checked the option to be willing to pay for professional install (having waited this long - and the fact that the V800 is another $100 more expensive than the TrueSmart) but I'm more than happy to do the install myself if the kit is solid. From what I gather in the initial post, it's going to be a far sight better than the factory seal. So, if I keep my TrueSmart I'd be in for either the home install or the pro install option.
FWIW - I could care less about using this phone in **** Tracy mode [trademark pending]. For my money, stuff a grommet in the ports and glue/seal them in place - my goal is to use the device for training.
DerUhrmacher said:
HThe watchcase deformation is measured by fine sensors and if it is deforming in the given parameters then the device says proof or leak. There are ranges from -0,8 Bar to +20 Bar.
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Click to collapse
In a pressurized submersion test it will fill with water before anything else. The case was never tested beyond about 0.015 Bar and even then it wasn't tested properly (bare case, no buttons or straps and all the ports sealed in 15cm of water).
Them doing something as simple as not putting in the speaker right or the double sided tape not seal correctly on the speaker will negate any water resistance it may have had.
Had any luck looking into this?
I would definitely be interested in a kit to improve waterproofing...
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
Me too ! I don't see a survey, maybe Tapatalk does not support surveys ?
I bought a NeverWet spray set from HomeDePot recently. They show how to treat an iPhone 5 by removing the back cover and spraying inside. I don't have an iPhone or I might try it. Wouldn't care...the stuff worked pretty good on my shoes though.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
In the meantime...
Hi horologists,
I was wondering: is there anything a layman could do in the meantime to, at least, improve the water sealing on the TrueSmart? I'm not interested in submerging it or taking a shower; I just don't want to be afraid that my watch will short if I get stuck in rain and put it in my pocket.
One of the things I obviously don't want to be doing is just smearing vaseline all over it as that'll ruin the silicone components, correct? I am currently purchasing silicone grease (dielectric so non-conductive) to improve the seals on the bottom and around the sim card case. What should I do about the buttons? Can I put more grease around their edges? Would vaseline be apprpriate there, since it's coming in contact with my skin and there seems to be no silicone gaskets? What's the best quick fix for buttons?
Sorry if these questions are stupid but... this is admittedly coming from a place of utter ignorance. : )
Take care and thanks very much.