I purchased a new vent holder with a car charger, and it charges the phone up OK when it is off, but if it is on it says charging but does not actually charge. This is especially annoying with Satnav and after an hour or two the phone dies and I don't know where I am going!
Anyone know what causes this? I guess it can't provide enough power for the device, especially when using the internal GPS, but I think it doesn't even keep up with the device is just turned on.
I am getting another charger just in case, but never had the problem on my old Touch....
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try -> start/settings/system tab/power/battery tab - uncheck the box "when the device is turned on...."
It isn't ticked...
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try ticking it..
That will have the opposite effect, it charges fine when plugged into the wall, the problem is something to do with the car.
Does anyone use satnav on a touch HD and have it charge at the same time?
Well there could be one or two issues.
On the USB port there are four connections, a positive and a negative and two data pins. When you plug your Touch HD into a PC power is supplied down the power pins and after negotiating with the USB controller chip over the two data pins the phone will pull up-to 500mA from the power supply to run and charge the phone. This is so the USB port on the PC is not damaged by the phone overloading the power supply to the port.
Without the negotiation with the USB controller chip the device will only charge at 100mA.
But 500mA is not enough to charge the phone with everything running, you will need at least 1000mA to do that (1 Ampere). So that is what your wall charger pushes out. But how does the phone know it can charge at a higher rate? Well inside the charger the data pins on the USB connector are wired in a way that the phone 'sees' that a higher current is available, and pulls a higher charging current.
So what you need is a minimum current 1 Amp car charger. If you already have a 1 Amp then the chances are that is does not have the data pins connected properly and the phone will not draw the higher current, meaning it will only charge at 100mA.
Thanks, I am going to try another one and see if that helps, perhaps it is just faulty, otherwise I will check if it is 1Amp.
Cheers.
I contacted the seller and they sent me a new one, which works. So it turns it my charger was just faulty.
What's the rating of the new one? and where did you get it from. I bought a 2amp (supposedly) but it doesn't give me more than 500mA.
I've had this problem and it sucks! As I'm always out on the road. But I have found a few solutions. I purchased a mini usb charger from asda for £6. After adjusting the backlight to medium this charger seems to keep the power level the same as it was before you plugged it in, so It doesn't let the battery go flat. I've now learnt to keep a spare charged battery in the car just in case it fails.
Related
I had a BIG problem with a third party battery charger (RIMAX).
It is a Car charger and a wall mount charger, with USB plug and cable, but IT WORKS ONLY WHEN THE WIZARD IS ON! If the battery goes down for some reason and the phone couldn't turn on, you're lost! :evil:
So, the lesson learned is: before travelling without your original charger check if the one you have could charge the wizard also when is OFF and not only in stand-by mode!
I also have a strange issue with a third party car charger - after plugging in the car charger I have to switch the universal off then on again to make it charge...very wierd!
I've also got one of those, though would prefere one with a bit of cable in the middle to reduce stress on the connector.
Have you checked the amp output on the chargers. They're probably putting out 0.5 amps (USB spec). If you look at the wall charger that came with the wizard, it puts out 1.0 amps. That's why when your battery is completely dead, the 0.5 amp charger can't put enough juice into it to get the battery up to a high enough level.
Actually, according to the USB spec, a device is not supposed to consume more than 100mA without being recognized by the USB host. That is, the USB host is only going to give your phone 100mA until the phone says, "hey, i'd like 500mA, please!"
Sometimes manufacturers may shortcut this and just allow the port 500mA at all times, but a standards-conforming one won't.
This MAY be part of the reason why we have problems charging a completely dead Wizard -- it's only going to get 100mA until the device has enough juice to wake up and request more.
This MAY be part of the reason why we have problems charging a completely dead Wizard -- it's only going to get 100mA until the device has enough juice to wake up and request more.
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Ah! - That's the problem I had yesterday - had left my Vario on with TomTom draining away the battery and forgotten about it on Saturday night, had just spent the day moving house and everything was in chaos and had no idea where the charger was.
So when I realised it was dead on Sunday whilst out in the car, I plugged it into the car charger that came with my GPS unit, which I have used to charge the phone many times before - but it would not charge, no light, nothing!
When I got home all I could find was the mains charger for the GPS and a USB cable - tried both and none would put any charge into the phone.
By this stage I was shi**ing myself that the phone, which I got mainly for GPS for travelling around Germany in June, was DEAD - with 3 weeks to go!
of course later in the day, once I had eventually found the proper charger, it took a slight pause after being plugged in and then the little orange light of joy came on and brought me salvation!!!!!
I suspected it might have been something like the previous poster said but not being very technical I really didn't know!!
Thanks.
I've had the same frustrating experience. When the battery is very low or dead the only charger that will work is the original adapter, not the car charger or cradle or pass thru my laptop. As I result I have to carry the original adapter whenever I travel and I often wake up with a dead Wizard if I dont realize how low the battery is when I park it in the cradle.
Very frustrating. I dont understand why Boxwave doesnt use a beefier adapter connected to the cradle.
I've had the same frustrating experience. When the battery is very low or dead the only charger that will work is the original adapter, not the car charger or cradle or pass thru my laptop. As I result I have to carry the original adapter whenever I travel and I often wake up with a dead Wizard if I dont realize how low the battery is when I park it in the cradle.
Very frustrating. I dont understand why Boxwave doesnt use a beefier adapter connected to the cradle.
I've had the same frustrating experience. When the battery is very low or dead the only charger that will work is the original adapter, not the car charger or cradle or pass thru my laptop. As I result I have to carry the original adapter whenever I travel and I often wake up with a dead Wizard if I dont realize how low the battery is when I park it in the cradle.
Very frustrating. I dont understand why Boxwave doesnt use a beefier adapter connected to the cradle.
Has anyone noticed that phone does not charge while using GPS. The charging indicator is on but when I look at the stats it says discharging at -450 mAh. Is this the way it is and if so, is there a fix? 1 hr 42 m with 73% display on battery use and 43% charge remaining, but was plugged in the entire time while driving under an hour home. I am using the same Motorola high performance charger that every other phone is charged fully even when using GPS.
are you absolutely sure the charger is giving the full 1A?
What sensor app are you using to see the battery discharging?
Mine charges normally with gps on.
Sent from my HTC
LTE 4G Rezound
I was curious so I tested this with "Battery Monitor" I have it plugged into my laptop currently which only gives +500mA. and not the +1A that you get from a wall/car/high power usb port.
the app is showing +257mA with GPS on and functioning normally.
So charging good here... Might be something with your motorola charger? It could have a sensor in it to detect 'trickle charging mode' that is improperly engaging when connected to the HTC causing the charger to put out a minimal 'sustain only' level of amperage.
good luck!
you need a charger putting out 1A ... most car chargers put out 500mA so find a good one off monoprice
Here's what I'm doing. I have a Belkin 2.1A(2100mAh) USB car charger dongle. The problem is, once i connect the USB cable to it the phone registers it as "Charging USB" and does notcharge anywhere near as fast(power-wise) as if the phone was registering it "Charging AC". I'm not keen on using a power inverter to get the full AC charge so instead i am going to go pick up a cheap micro USB cable, splice it open, then disconnect the data wires(green & white ones) & then tape it back up. By disconnecting the data wires, the phone will no longer think it's a USB connection and then charge via AC, getting the best charge possible.
that should work ^ if thats the problem
I've found that using the included USB cable with a Belkin dual port USB car charger allows the phone to charge as if it were plugged in to a wall. I'm guessing the included cable has a different layout than standard Micro USB cables.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using xda premium
dawynkoop said:
I've found that using the included USB cable with a Belkin dual port USB car charger allows the phone to charge as if it were plugged in to a wall. I'm guessing the included cable has a different layout than standard Micro USB cables.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using xda premium
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I'm guessing that I have the same belkin dual port (2.1amp and 1amp ports) and the best I've seen out of it is about 250mah charging. This is using the supplied usb/micro hdmi whatever cord for the phone.
I have seen discharge rates off the charger of 750mah which is the highest I've seen on any phone. I'm guessing if you are using the nav on your phone with the screen on, it will probably still be using battery while plugged in.
thatsricci said:
I was curious so I tested this with "Battery Monitor" I have it plugged into my laptop currently which only gives +500mA. and not the +1A that you get from a wall/car/high power usb port.
the app is showing +257mA with GPS on and functioning normally.
So charging good here... Might be something with your motorola charger? It could have a sensor in it to detect 'trickle charging mode' that is improperly engaging when connected to the HTC causing the charger to put out a minimal 'sustain only' level of amperage.
good luck!
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Possible, but says AC charging in Battery Monitor widget. I will post a few pics.
Here are a few Pics. you can see a couple of things.
-Charger rated at 950 MA out. and no other phone I have owned lost a charge while driving including TBolt, Charge, Bionic.
-Shows as AC charging
- Spikes of good charging detected
Put on Normal power mode today on the way in. live wallpapers did not wrok, just flickered. 3G on vice 4G. Battery still went down, but above 90% on 40 minute drive in. Screen low but on. Bluetooth speaker.
Maybe it is the iBolt car mount. See review online. will try without dock this afternoon on my way home.
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User: marc frederick, Nov 25, 2011
Pros: Options for different backs
Cons: Does not charge the phone while it is in use
Try playing pandora when the phone is 100 charged. After 45 minutes on the car mount (and yes it is plugged into a charger and all indicatros show it is charging) and the charge level is 84. Using the same charger but plugged into the phone, playing Pandora for 45 min starting charge level 68. Ending charge level is 100.
Yeah, something is telling that charger to not give you full juice
Rezound
ok, drove home off the window mount and just on charger, all same except full brightness on screen.40 minute drive. came up 7% battery vice down from 100 to 43%. nedd a few trials to confirm, but looks like window mount is throttleing juice.
thatsricci said:
are you absolutely sure the charger is giving the full 1A?
What sensor app are you using to see the battery discharging?
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i have seen spurts up to 913 with GPS off and screen just turned on. Using battery monitor widget. Not on window mount, just charger.
I can confirm. The car dock will not charge your phone atleast not with the screen on and nothing else running but battery monitor widget.
I bought one and tested it extensively yesterday. I used a Verizon 1a charger and a generic 1a charger. With the dock and both chargerz the phone DIScharged(as in LOST battery power) at between 100ma and 200ma. Without the dock using the same chargers and changing nothing on the phone the phone charged at between 50a and 300ma.
I did the test several times to eliminate any random things the phone may have been doing in the background.
After doing that controlled test I played with it some more and no matter what I did I could not get a positive charge with the dock attached even in airplane mode with the screen backlight at minimum. Without the dock using the same chargers i ran Pandora and a police scanner both outputting through the phone speaker, gps, wifi, mobile all on, and screen on auto and still had a very small positive charge.
Moral of the story DO NOT BUY THIS DOCK unless you dont mind it just being a piece of plastic that holds your phone in place.
I wonder if there's a quick mod to it to get it working right. Like the soldering of the USB chargers I've seen.
Rezound
I just went ahead and bought an extra battery so I wouldn't have to charge in the car. Only takes 20 seconds to pop in a new battery.
Can charge both batts while I sleep at night.
Sent from my Galaxy Tab 10.1
I was looking for a high current charger for my Android tablet and there was a review that talked about compatibility. Some of the high cap chargers appear to be designed for Apple products and the pin wiring is subtly different. So, on some non-Apple products, the charge is only recognized as a lower power, 500mah charger and the users reported that some devices would normally charge and others would not. Some of the dual port charges also split the power. The 2.1 amp port and the 1 amp port cannot be used at the same time, depending on what is plugged into them. This was also brand specific. I ordered the Amazon Basics 2.1 amp dual charger and will see how that works. I have noticed a difference in charge rates between my Motorola charger left over from the Blackberry and the Verizon OEM one. The VZW one is faster.
I do the same thing I have been doing since my Windows phone days.
I use the AC cord plugged into a 12v to AC adaptor(screen set to 100% bright and no timeout).
I drove 6 hours last week ruuning Google Maps/GPS & my battery was 100% charged when I got to my destination.
~John
I have a USB car charger that doesn't seem to charge as quickly as I would like it to. I say that by comparing it to previous phones and the rate at which they charged when plugged into it.
I read that you can short out the Belkin or Griffin USB charges to make it look like your phone is plugged into the wall. I'm not agains doing this because i like to tweak.
The question really is, I see that Proporta has a 4000mA (2000mA per port) dual port USB charger available. Will this allow my phone to charge like it's plugged into the wall or will it still "look like" I'm plugged into a USB prot charging?
- Cyber
Not exactly sure what you're asking, but I assume that you mean that a wall charger charges the phone faster than a car charger.
Unfortunately, I don't know if this is the case. USB is a universal standard with specific power requirements. Although there are medium and high power chargers out there, I would be reluctant to get something so extreme. I think USB calls for 500 mA standard, so I'd be careful using the charger you mention. You might want to do some more research on it, or contact the company about it.
I'm not an expert but my opinion is that usually USB-Wall charger supplies up to 1000 mAh (written on power supply transformer) while the USB-OutPC is only 500 mAh, in fact, I've noticed that the full charge of my Titan takes double the time if charged via PC.
Not sure about the amount supplied by cars USB adapter.
...my two amperes...
Some of the chargers accomplish support for things like the iPad 2 by shorting the two USB connectors. Some advertise things like 2000ma, but fail to deliver much more than 500ma. I am not sure if this is due to the choice of shorting out the data connectors to trick your phone in to thinking it is plugged in to the wall.
Back in the WM 6.5 days, you could accomplish this at the phone driver level and did not need to modify your chargers.
I would not worry about trying something rated higher as your phone would regulate the current. I personally intend to do my experimentation by shorting out the cable rather than the charger (cables are more easily replaced). Unfortunately, there is no app for WP7 that can measure the charging current, so the only way to do this scientifically is to use the battery status app and measuring the charge rate over time.
If you do the mod, post back and let us know. When I get around to the USB cable experiment, I will post back as well.
I've been having a charging issue for a month or so, I'm not sure what to think about it.
Let me explain quickly, that I don't like to fill my pockets with micro usb cables or AC chargers whenever I go out. As such, I usually just acquire a few extra chargers or usb cables and just leave them where I am most likely to need them. I'm sure this is common.
Charger 1 : Samsung AC charger, came with phone. Lives by my bed.
Charger 2 : Blackberry AC charger, acquired from work. Lives in kitchen.
USB 1 : $1 cable from Amazon. Lives in the car, plugged into 12vDC lighter to USB adapter.
USB 2 : $1 cable from Amazon. Lives on my desk at home. Plugged into PC.
USB 3: Blackberry cable. Found at work. Lives at office.
On to the problem.
Somehow, Charger 1, USB 1, USB 2 seem to drain my phone. If I plug in to charge overnight and power is at 45%, when I wake up, I'm at 12% or some other number. Battery App indicates that it has been "charging" I could unplug and replug the charger a few times and then monitor the charge level, if it drops, I unplug and replug again, reboot phone perhaps, it may or may not fix the problem. Problem has gotten worse and these no longer seem to charge phone.
Charger 2 seems to have worked more consistently, but not always. Seems to have gotten worse.
USB 3 is the only cable that consistently charges without problem. It is a blackberry branded cable, much lower gauge wires (read: thicker) than the cheap $1 cables from Amazon or the Samsung OEM charger.
I've tried charging with phone off, does not seem to make a difference.
I'm running Doc Masters v6, problem was also present in v5. Since issue is same with power off, I don't believe this is a ROM issue and have not tried Odin to stock.
Is this sign of the USB port going out? Anyone tried to replace/repair microUSB or have similar experience?
About the part about replacing a microUSB port, I had to do this because my connection was getting flaky, then I messed it up altogether. I sent my phone to MobileTechVideos and they sent it back to me with the port replaced.
I may try sending it to repair. Sounds like a pretty reasonable price and quick turnaround. Dunno if I can take going back to my G1 for a week while I wait though.
Provided I don't misplace the only USB cable that will charge my phone, I should be ok for a while.
When ever I drive, I have my phone hooked up to my Escort Red Line radar detector and my car's stereo via bluetooth (both). In order for me to use the radar detector effective, I need to have GPS and Blueooth enabled. This is a HUGE SUPER OMG battery drainer for my amaze. 20 minutes drive kills about 35% of the phone's power. My radar detector offers a slot to charge my phone BUT it still drains, not enough juice flowing in. Someone said it is because it's probably a .5amp.
So I am running a extension from the 12v lighter that's in the trunk to the front of my car. Amazon has a generic 2.1amp for 3 bucks.
http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Heavy...121&sr=8-1&keywords=htc+amaze+car+charger+amp
But on ebay, I found the original HTC car charger for 15 bucks which is a 1amp.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HTC-Amaze-4...918506?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item27c867022a
What do you guys recommend? My logic says go for the 2.1amp, the phone will draw as much as it needs from it.
The 1amp.
Anything higher you'll damage the phone or the battery.
A wall plug power supply or a usb supply is 5.0v/1amp.
The 2.1 amp is probably 1 amp per port. Although it does not seem to specify.
F9zSlavik said:
What do you guys recommend? My logic says go for the 2.1amp, the phone will draw as much as it needs from it.
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Right!:good:
---------- Post added at 09:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:41 AM ----------
soundping said:
The 1amp.
Anything higher you'll damage the phone or the battery.
A wall plug power supply or a usb supply is 5.0v/1amp.
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That means a higher capacity battery (more current NOT MORE VOLTAGE) will damage the phone?!!!!
Totally wrong!
A higher current will not damage the phone. A higher voltage will do it!
Please do not mix the current with voltage!
Voltage is same 5 Volts (±5%) for these “USB like” applications (1A or 2.1A power supply our case )They use USB socket/connector but usually only pin 1 and 4 (+ and-)
Regular computer USB port can supply max 0.5-0.9 A depending on version.
For battery charging devices the current can go to 5A.
Higher voltage will trip a warning window telling you to disconnect and use official HTC equipment.
The phone monitors input voltage to protect the equipment.
nyc_tdi said:
That means a higher capacity battery (more current NOT MORE VOLTAGE) will damage the phone?!!!!
Totally wrong!
A higher current will not damage the phone. A higher voltage will do it!
Please do not mix the current with voltage!
Voltage is same 5 Volts (±5%) for these “USB like” applications (1A or 2.1A power supply our case )They use USB socket/connector but usually only pin 1 and 4 (+ and-)
Regular computer USB port can supply max 0.5-0.9 A depending on version.
For battery charging devices the current can go to 5A.
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Click to collapse
and to add to that... unless you take the charger apart and short pins 2 and 3, it will only ever draw 500mA, as it assumes that it is hooked up to a regular powered USB port... I have bought multiple car charger usb adapters, and I have taken all of them apart and soldered the 2nd and 3rd pins together... otherwise charge time = forever, and sometimes it won't even charge if you have wifi or data/gps/bluetooth all going at once...
I recently got an Amaze and am generally happy with it. The biggest problem I have right now is finding the right car charger for it because the car charger I previously used (a 1A monoprice car charger) doesn't give it enough charge. I have been reading through the forums and some has been saying that if the charger is not working properly, it will recognize it as charging via USB rather than AC. In my case, the phone seems to be reading it as charging through AC, but there still doesn't seem to be enough current going through it. The phone will only charge if NOTHING is going on (i.e. screen's off, no GPS, etc.). I've been using CoPilot GPS and it draws the battery like crazy. Anyone has any idea as to which car charger would work properly with the Amaze such that I'll be able to charge (or at least maintain the charge) while using it as a GPS? Do I need to go up to a 2.1A charger?
I would look for a 4-5 star rated 2.1a car charger on Amazon.
Just read through the comments and feedback and you'll find one that's right for you.
I prefer the USB charger base itself and then using the OEM cable that came with the Amaze.
It seems to charge faster with that cable, at least to me anyway.
Remember though if it's rated 2.1a but has two USB slots that 2.1a will be cut in half if used to charge two different devices.
Hope this helps.
I couldve sworn we talked about this months ago. Let me see if I can find the thread.
nguyendqh said:
I would look for a 4-5 star rated 2.1a car charger on Amazon.
Just read through the comments and feedback and you'll find one that's right for you.
I prefer the USB charger base itself and then using the OEM cable that came with the Amaze.
It seems to charge faster with that cable, at least to me anyway.
Remember though if it's rated 2.1a but has two USB slots that 2.1a will be cut in half if used to charge two different devices.
Hope this helps.
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you won't get the full 2.1a unless you usee a charge only cable or modify the charger as I stated above...
I ended up getting a 2.1A car charger and a USB charge only cable, and it's working perfectly. When I have the screen on full brightness and doing navigation with Co-Pilot GPS, my phone's no longer losing charge and is actually charging. The combo also works with my tablet as well.
blast0id said:
and to add to that... unless you take the charger apart and short pins 2 and 3, it will only ever draw 500mA, as it assumes that it is hooked up to a regular powered USB port... I have bought multiple car charger usb adapters, and I have taken all of them apart and soldered the 2nd and 3rd pins together... otherwise charge time = forever, and sometimes it won't even charge if you have wifi or data/gps/bluetooth all going at once...
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This is damn helpful! So THAT is why when driving and using gps or whatnot I would always lose more battery even on charger.. So basically I can just solder the middle 2 pins together to trick it into thinking it is being powered like a home charger? No chance it will hurt anything I assume?
Silentbtdeadly said:
This is damn helpful! So THAT is why when driving and using gps or whatnot I would always lose more battery even on charger.. So basically I can just solder the middle 2 pins together to trick it into thinking it is being powered like a home charger? No chance it will hurt anything I assume?
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I have done this to every single one of my USB car chargers... not a single issue...