I just pulled my GTab from my mold and plan on producing carbonfiber hardshells similar to the SPECK cases for iPads. I have done this before for my black Macbook. I replaced the back of the LCD and did the lower case both in carbon fiber. The lower did not turn out as good as I expected (due to too many undercuts) but the top is flawless.\
I am getting ready to order some more CF so I can cast the case for the Gtab.
Question now is will there be any interest here for cases.
I have to order in bulk (resin and CF) so my asking price of $75 is straight cost and will be happy to pass that on to the community.
PM any interest.
Hell yeah! Any pics of your work?
Sent from my VEGAn-TAB-v1.0.0b5.1.1 using Tapatalk
Im interested, but wondering if this would be a clip on type or a direct replacement for the rear housing?
it would be clip on. Only issue I'm having atm is the power and volume rocker buttons. That area is so thin that valley cutting them would make them brittle and weak.
Once I solve that issue, I can begin the first master cast.
"Question now is will there be any interest here for cases."
Yup
I'm interested to see the final product. I'd be game (probably) to get one, assuming it would be like a Sedieo style.
(Also, I work in the mold industry as a CNC programmer/engineer. Let me know if I can be of any help.)
with a cherry on top!
Pictures please!
I'm very interested. Can't wait to see what it looks like.
I'm very interested!
After messing around with the master casting I've come to the conclusion that there is no way to correctly create a snap-on type case for the GTab. the Power and volume rockers leave no room on the side for proper casting and strength.
Did a test casting around the weak zones and even after oven curing the test, they snapped with very little effort. Even tried dual layer CF on the weak zones and there is just not enough surface area to make it strong.
Looking into picking up another GTab so I can pull the back off and cast a replacement carbon fiber back piece.
Seems like the only reasonable option now. Will post updates as I make progress with this.
After getting chewed out by wife over buying another GTab, I would like to put a call out to other owners. If anyone has a DEAD GTab and wouldn't mind "loaning" the back plate, I can get to work on trying another mold to create a backplate replacement. Unfortunately my Gtab is freshly skinned and really don't want to pull all that off to make a casting.
Is there a way to do it without casting over the buttons? Could you just leave one corner unprotected in a stylish fashion?
Related
*Note i have not experienced whether the product lives up to its name or not. I only JUST placed it on my device. This is simply my first impression.
**I included pictures of my device compared to the back parts of the adhesive so you can fully grasp the wonderful "custom to fit" experience.
I just now got as close to perfection as i think i am going to get with placing my "custom to fit" screen protector onto my device. At very first glance i saw that their were going to be some slight imperfections. The random circle on the top right of the adhesive was a dead giveaway. The cut out they have for the top speaker and the bottom row of buttons is hardly CLOSE to the size it should be. It is much too big. I am not sure if it is clear enough in the pictures but their is excess adhesive on the sides. I figured they may be meant to fold down to protect a minuscule amount of siding. At first i could not get it to stick on the sides. But after giving it a few minutes to settle and let the application spray* dry, it seems to be holding. However, the border has really ugly bubbles from the very tony inlay of the front of the phone. The instructions say that MICRObubbles will disappear in their own after a couple days... i hardly find these MICRObubbles though. We will see. I think it is almost supposed to have a "melting" effect on the device. Like heated plastic sort of taking the proper shape over the device.
Now we move onto the back. You will see that i have been given 3 holes instead of 2. (2 being the camera lens and the button underneath). I have no idea what the third was meant for.... I can also forget about taking the backing off of my device as it is now sealed shut with the plastic invisible shield. This doesn't bother me that much since i rarely ever have to take the back out but i know their will be a day where i will need to.
All-in-all the product LOOKS promising still. The bottom line here that i would like to make is that i have NO idea what TouchPro2 they are basing this off of. but it is far from mine. Too far. I need to check but i am also fairly certain they ask for your provider too (in case the device is different than others)
I am also still wondering about the excess sides. it is very random in the back but they make no mention of needing to trim the shield.
*They give you a spray that you use on your fingertips and the adhesive so that a. you dont give it fingerprint smudges and b. it doesnt fully stick right away so that you can "slide" it into place. I found that "sliding" it around was impossible because it still stuck but it did not stick enough to the point i was unable to retry.
I really hope this means something to somebody. Had i read something like this before hand, i may have thought longer on buying the product. I will be sure to write more in the next few days. By the feel of the material on my phone, it seems like it could work really well.
I would also love to know other people's experience with this product and even maybe correct me if anything i complained about was just due to stupidity.
It very much looks like you bought Invisible Shield for the wrong Touch Pro 2 model.
It looks like you have the one for the unlocked/unbranded model:
http://www.zagg.com/invisibleshield/htc-touch-pro-2-cases-screen-protectors-covers-skins-shields.php
When in fact you want the T-Mobile model.
http://www.zagg.com/invisibleshield/htc-touch-pro-2-t-mobile-cases-screen-protectors-covers-skins-shields.php
It looks like the shape of your T-Mob branded TP2 is actually quite different from the unbranded version. The shape of the shield is therefore quite different between the models, based on the pictures on the Zagg website. Also, the layout of the battery cover is totally different, which is why the cutouts on the shield don't match your battery cover. This also accounts for the 3rd small hole on this piece. In addition to the camera lens and speakerphone button, the unbranded TP2 has small holes for the speaker just below the speakerphone button, and that is what the 3rd hole in the shield is for. I'm guessing on the T-Mob version, the speaker hole is located as part of the larger cutout/hole.
Not to be mean but it's really obvious that it wasn't made for a T-Mobile Touch Pro2 and you should have known that it wasn't the right one.
Just going to the Touch Pro2 forums you can see that there's different versions of the device and ours is usually always referred as the "T-Mobile Touch Pro2" when being specific.
The cover does seem worth buying though.
Yeah i just inquired about it. I did buy the T-Mobile one and they just sent the wrong one.
redpoint73 said:
In addition to the camera lens and speakerphone button, the unbranded TP2 has small holes for the speaker just below the speakerphone button, and that is what the 3rd hole in the shield is for. I'm guessing on the T-Mob version, the speaker hole is located as part of the larger cutout/hole.
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Oddly, the Tilt2 had little holes in the back case in the same spot, despite the fact that it is just the battery sitting behind the holes. I always figured it was just a way to give water quick access to the battery compartment to turn that little strip pink incase we ever dropped it somewhere damp...
Hey guys -
Figured I'd throw this out there. Is anyone aware of a 3D model of the design of the LGOG? Not necessarily the whole thing but the back cover would suffice. I've got a buddy who has a business in which he makes custom metal parts. He's not precision machines that, if I supply the autoCAD or 3D model, they can laser cut it out of a nice piece of aluminum or whatever. Errr, how dope would that be??
I know I'd need to move the antenna and NFC, but that shouldn't be too difficult.
If this works out I can possibly run a batch for some of you other owners that are interested out there!
Let's do some digging!
Doubt anybody has it. Your friend doesn't have some sort of 3d scanner?
piotrus22 said:
Hey guys -
Figured I'd throw this out there. Is anyone aware of a 3D model of the design of the LGOG? Not necessarily the whole thing but the back cover would suffice. I've got a buddy who has a business in which he makes custom metal parts. He's not precision machines that, if I supply the autoCAD or 3D model, they can laser cut it out of a nice piece of aluminum or whatever. Errr, how dope would that be??
I know I'd need to move the antenna and NFC, but that shouldn't be too difficult.
If this works out I can possibly run a batch for some of you other owners that are interested out there!
Let's do some digging!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I really wish I could help, what you're proposing sounds awesome, however;
I would get an aluminum blank and (tape?) it to the back of the phone or at least hold it there and observe your wireless functionality.
Make absolutely sure that your cell/wifi/bluetooth still works with a metal plate there.
If you can do me a favor, please post the results, and try copper as well if it's available. I'm interested in internally placing a copper or aluminum shim for extra thermal mass and heat spreading. This would be very useful to know.
If I come across anything I'll pass it your way, in the meantime you might want to make a cast of it for your friend with a clay mold or plaster of paris, etc.
That process itself might actually be a usable solution and net you a custom back piece, make a cast copy and use say fiberglass, then you can coat it with a carbon fiber decal or something, would look pretty awesome
http://www.ehow.com/how_5977827_cast-craft-molds.html
plenty of casting / mold making guides on the web. the only extra steps I would take would be to fill the screw holes with a dab of clay on the underside of the back piece so that it can be removed easily from the mold, you'll just have to poke them out of your copy when you're done.
So, as we all know the Omate TrueSmart is as waterproof as a leaky boat, or perhaps a sponge.
However, I don't think there are any other Horologists on the forum at the moment. ( wikipedia horologist http:// en.wikipedia.org /wiki/horologist ).
After looking at the "seals" on the case buttons, and the laughable o-ring that Umeox/Omate have chosen to use on the back, along with the piece of silicone flap that they are using to seal the SIM card... I have to say that expecting it to be water resistant to any degree is a bit laughable.
So, I have a solution, the same one used by Rolex, Omega, Breitling, Citizen, Seiko, etc.. etc...
* Liquid silicone sealant gel on the SIM card seal and flap.
* Replace the silicone o-rings for the watch back with a thin silicone gasket, with more sealant gel
* Retrofit and replace the button seals, or create black silicone button covers that better seal them
I'm going to have to look at the speaker port on the watchband. I don't know if there is a simple solution there to make it compliant for 1 meter depth without severely affecting the quality of the sound output from that port. A brief examination makes it seem that the port -might- be able to take IP67 conditions .. but without reinforcement, I doubt it could take the forces involved in a swim, waves, wakes, spas.
Still, I think I can put together a kit, and instructions that careful and diligent people could use to retrofit the TrueSmart to make it far more waterproof than the manufacturer does. The kit would cost between $15 and $25 US, mostly to cover the cost of making custom molds for the silicone gaskets. ( There is a local TechShop here in Austin, and I have a CNC mill to make the aluminum molds, and all the design experience and software I need. Even so, a small super-accurate mold is a couple hundred dollars worth of materials and work. )
If there is enough interest evidenced here on a poll, I'll make the kit.
Sincerely,
Martin Bogomolni
Maker, Horologist, Coder, and Machinist
Need to redesign the case so that the speaker is sealed as well.
I've read that the O-rings are different among different runs. If the shape of the part of the case they fit against is different as well, wouldn't that make this effort require potentially as many different molds as the number of firmwares Loki has been trying to contend with? Or is it just the ring that's been different?
The case design is different. There's at least two maybe three.
Then that means I'll need to make two or three variants of the kit. This will also require some externally-visible way to identify the differences between various batches of TrueSmart watches.
Lokifish Marz said:
The case design is different. There's at least two maybe three.
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Click to collapse
I think, just an opinion, that if the gasket between the body and the back cover has holes for the screws to pass through it like on my Last of the Kickstarter Dev Eds, 1/8/1900, delivered first of the USA group in early Feb, then that gasket works if properly placed and screwed together. The housing on these is flat, without raised screw hole posts and no groove.
I think the main problem you are going to need to overcome is the buttons and the mic pinhole leaking.
The speaker, if it doesn't mind getting wet itself, provides no entry path into the body if the wire set going in has been properly sealed inside (white sealant on mine, I think). Water could destroy the speaker, OK maybe, but not the watch unless it can follow the speaker connections back up into the body. Where the band halves meet the body on both sides there is a hole through the body to let the cables through, sealed inside with some white stuff. Maybe sealed...
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
The speaker is inside the case (under the square "bump" in the backplate) and uses nothing more than double sided tape. It is partly held into place by the plastic insert.
What is that open slot for then, in the band on the speaker side ?
Where the sound comes out ?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Yep. (see attached image)
Yes I was also curious about how the waterproofness of the speaker and microphone port would be approached. But I'm definitely down for one of these.
For what it's worth, I've submerged (no more than 2ft) my NA 1gb/8gb OTS and used it in the shower after having opened the bottom. During the first week I was constantly checking inside the case for internal moisture and didn't see any. It's been a while, but I remember thinking the physical buttons looked like they would let water in if used while underwater, but that didn't seem to happen.
for giggles, my omate arrived with bad software, and only pulling the battery would fix it. I had first tried letting the battery die out but the vcom drivers didn't fully take until i pulled the battery, so the water seal warranty was moot from early on. I don't remember how long I waited, but I sent the following screen to cecilia and a few other mailboxes at omate for help with no response (surprise!) before pulling the battery and stepping through the restore guides.
Looking back, I can't even imagine how the bootloader got to be so trashed! Volume up and down you say?
I am in. Also shared on G+ and KS comments the poll, good luck!
Yep
I'm definitely in support of this. I created a kayaking app that is pretty useless with the watch the way it is... having this kit out there would be great.
Hi. I am a watchmaker (horlogist?) from Germany and its my daily job to make watches watertight.
I have access to professional measuring devices for checking the watches if they are sealed. It is testet via air pressure, no water. The watchcase deformation is measured by fine sensors and if it is deforming in the given parameters then the device says proof or leak. There are ranges from -0,8 Bar to +20 Bar.
Further tests to locate the leak are made with water tests.
I havent received my pre ordered true smart yet (but I own a simvalley AW-414.go). Before I would test the true smart I would like to know how much pressure it could take before the screen brakes.
After the long wait and seeing this IPx7 drama unfold, I decided to just flip my TrueSmart on delivery - and flog it on eBay/Amazon without ever opening the box. Depending on the delivery timeline and other factors (such as the impending release of the Polar V800 and Garmin fenix 2) I may reconsider that strategy if this "aftermarket waterproofing" plan gains momentum.
I checked the option to be willing to pay for professional install (having waited this long - and the fact that the V800 is another $100 more expensive than the TrueSmart) but I'm more than happy to do the install myself if the kit is solid. From what I gather in the initial post, it's going to be a far sight better than the factory seal. So, if I keep my TrueSmart I'd be in for either the home install or the pro install option.
FWIW - I could care less about using this phone in **** Tracy mode [trademark pending]. For my money, stuff a grommet in the ports and glue/seal them in place - my goal is to use the device for training.
DerUhrmacher said:
HThe watchcase deformation is measured by fine sensors and if it is deforming in the given parameters then the device says proof or leak. There are ranges from -0,8 Bar to +20 Bar.
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In a pressurized submersion test it will fill with water before anything else. The case was never tested beyond about 0.015 Bar and even then it wasn't tested properly (bare case, no buttons or straps and all the ports sealed in 15cm of water).
Them doing something as simple as not putting in the speaker right or the double sided tape not seal correctly on the speaker will negate any water resistance it may have had.
Had any luck looking into this?
I would definitely be interested in a kit to improve waterproofing...
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
Me too ! I don't see a survey, maybe Tapatalk does not support surveys ?
I bought a NeverWet spray set from HomeDePot recently. They show how to treat an iPhone 5 by removing the back cover and spraying inside. I don't have an iPhone or I might try it. Wouldn't care...the stuff worked pretty good on my shoes though.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
In the meantime...
Hi horologists,
I was wondering: is there anything a layman could do in the meantime to, at least, improve the water sealing on the TrueSmart? I'm not interested in submerging it or taking a shower; I just don't want to be afraid that my watch will short if I get stuck in rain and put it in my pocket.
One of the things I obviously don't want to be doing is just smearing vaseline all over it as that'll ruin the silicone components, correct? I am currently purchasing silicone grease (dielectric so non-conductive) to improve the seals on the bottom and around the sim card case. What should I do about the buttons? Can I put more grease around their edges? Would vaseline be apprpriate there, since it's coming in contact with my skin and there seems to be no silicone gaskets? What's the best quick fix for buttons?
Sorry if these questions are stupid but... this is admittedly coming from a place of utter ignorance. : )
Take care and thanks very much.
Okay guys. As you all know, you can't paint aluminum. Spending a bit of time on Oakley forum, it dawned on me that you can duracoat or cerakote a phone. I have a gold a 2017u that is begging for a refinish. I hate gold, but love this phone. Just curious whether anyone has attempted such or if I will be the first monkey launched into space. Just had my X metal XX refinished and would love the gold to be gone. If we had a hardware modding section, I'd post there. Lol.
What about the antenna bands? Fingerprint reader? What about the plastic speaker covers? Most people, including me, are going to tell you that it's just not worth it. This is especially true if it's just for a color change and not to cover scratches. I actually just bought a gold A7 because I think they look nicer in a case than the grey ones do. I'm normally one for subdued colors but in this case the color of the phone is just an accent color. If you do it, pick a color that isn't offered to make it interesting and post the pictures here.
kitcostantino said:
Okay guys. As you all know, you can't paint aluminum. Spending a bit of time on Oakley forum, it dawned on me that you can duracoat or cerakote a phone. I have a gold a 2017u that is begging for a refinish. I hate gold, but love this phone. Just curious whether anyone has attempted such or if I will be the first monkey launched into space. Just had my X metal XX refinished and would love the gold to be gone. If we had a hardware modding section, I'd post there. Lol.
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Click to collapse
Lol I can't count how many times I've been tempted to take a piece of sandpaper and at least get rid of the gold finish...
The good thing about the construction of this thing is that once you take it apart, only the FP reader and the camera lens remain there. I guess you can get the lens out with a little bit of pressure and take that gold ring off. The reader has a piece of what seems to be tape upon it, but you may as well leave it there. and having the two antenna lines of another color may even look nice
I really want to see the final product...
I'm torn between durabake and duracoat aerosol. I'm fairly confident that powered off, the 200 degrees f would not melt anything plastic on the phone. I wish I knew more about temperature tolerances. Also. I'm torn between primary red and nwu blue. The aerosol kit doesn't require baking, so likely that is a safer option.
Update: duracoat aerosol ordered.
kitcostantino said:
I'm torn between durabake and duracoat aerosol. I'm fairly confident that powered off, the 200 degrees f would not melt anything plastic on the phone. I wish I knew more about temperature tolerances. Also. I'm torn between primary red and nwu blue. The aerosol kit doesn't require baking, so likely that is a safer option.
Update: duracoat aerosol ordered.
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Click to collapse
Wait, you are dissembling the phone right? I vote blue but it's too late.
lol. yes. and i ordered the nwu blue.
honestly, i think it will be a great project. if it works, it will be the motivation to acquire a 64/128. (not too motivated on that presently bc of the hideous gold.) NWU blue should be worlds better than ghetto gold.
i plan to take the phone apart.
i plan to duracoat the speaker grills the same color. same thing on sim tray and the parts where the plastic antennae lines are. i honestly could pull off doing it w/o pulling it apart and taping/masking well considering it doesnt have to bake. but i feel like the pita of full disassembly may be worthwhile.
ive taken many many phones apart. so i am not squeamish there. i just am not certain that the fingerprint sensor and the sapphire glass on the camera are that hard to mask off. (eyes crappy slickwraps extras. lol)
edit: after watching this video:
, i *definitely* am disassembling. i am so stoked for a blue axon. i wish i could make a red decal to replace the logos.
kitcostantino said:
honestly, i think it will be a great project. if it works, it will be the motivation to acquire a 64/128. (not too motivated on that presently bc of the hideous gold.) NWU blue should be worlds better than ghetto gold.
i plan to take the phone apart.
i plan to duracoat the speaker grills the same color. same thing on sim tray and the parts where the plastic antennae lines are. i honestly could pull off doing it w/o pulling it apart and taping/masking well considering it doesnt have to bake. but i feel like the pita of full disassembly may be worthwhile.
ive taken many many phones apart. so i am not squeamish there. i just am not certain that the fingerprint sensor and the sapphire glass on the camera are that hard to mask off. (eyes crappy slickwraps extras. lol)
edit: after watching this video:
, i *definitely* am disassembling. i am so stoked for a blue axon. i wish i could make a red decal to replace the logos.
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Well, I took apart my Moto G 2 and while these 2 phones are worlds apart in terms of build quality, all it took was a soft piece of wood and some force to get the camera lens to pop off. was riddled with scratches. Shouldn't be too hard to get this one off too, maybe with some heat.
You could use one of those crappy skins (only the camera one, anyways) to put on the backside lens if you can see the PCB through once you get the gold ring off, assuming you can't just paint it and put it again. I'm sure one of those brands can ship you only what you want, don't remember the name though
I guess you'll have to sand the whole body for the paint to stick to the aluminum and stay there with all the handling? If you can take some pictures of the sanded backside I'd be grateful, cause I think i'll just sand it, paint whatever's left and let it be
The FP sensor should be easy to modify, JerryRigEverything always scratches fp sensors with a blade (like you'd ever get to that point lol) abd they always keep working, so if you need to sand it so that the paint gets stuck to the plastic, you can. I don't even know what those paints are, they probably don't even import them here in Argentina. But from what I'm deducing they won't stick to plastic will they?
Also, I'd advise you to be real careful with the fabric thingy that covers the speakers. I broke one and lost the other one, so I have to clean the speakers with a magnet every once in a while... (workshop fills them up with iron dust). and something JerryRigEverything didn't mention on the disassemble video was that the power button is free-floating once you take it apart (it can't fall off though) and when I was putting the phone together the chassis somehow bent a little bit. Nothing critical but sure looks bad
Choose an username... said:
Well, I took apart my Moto G 2 and while these 2 phones are worlds apart in terms of build quality, all it took was a soft piece of wood and some force to get the camera lens to pop off. was riddled with scratches. Shouldn't be too hard to get this one off too, maybe with some heat.
You could use one of those crappy skins (only the camera one, anyways) to put on the backside lens if you can see the PCB through once you get the gold ring off, assuming you can't just paint it and put it again. I'm sure one of those brands can ship you only what you want, don't remember the name though
I guess you'll have to sand the whole body for the paint to stick to the aluminum and stay there with all the handling? If you can take some pictures of the sanded backside I'd be grateful, cause I think i'll just sand it, paint whatever's left and let it be
The FP sensor should be easy to modify, JerryRigEverything always scratches fp sensors with a blade (like you'd ever get to that point lol) abd they always keep working, so if you need to sand it so that the paint gets stuck to the plastic, you can. I don't even know what those paints are, they probably don't even import them here in Argentina. But from what I'm deducing they won't stick to plastic will they?
Also, I'd advise you to be real careful with the fabric thingy that covers the speakers. I broke one and lost the other one, so I have to clean the speakers with a magnet every once in a while... (workshop fills them up with iron dust). and something JerryRigEverything didn't mention on the disassemble video was that the power button is free-floating once you take it apart (it can't fall off though) and when I was putting the phone together the chassis somehow bent a little bit. Nothing critical but sure looks bad
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Click to collapse
From what i understand, Duracoat will bond to any material, so long as it is degreased and prepped (sanded in this scenario) . So plastic is in. (yay)
i plan to spray the buttons but i do not plan to remove them unless i have to. even the full disassembly is not that hard.
I dont necessarily plan to paint the fp sensor unless i know the finish will not impede functionality. Duracoat may break the functionality, so i might have to be creative. its funny you mention jerryrigeverything's video bc that was my proof of concept for being able to sand the sensor down to not gold color.
on my Droid Turbo, i used to cover the capacitive buttons with clear self adhesive vinyl before i covered the screen with a Skinomi Tech skin. I may just sand the sensor enough for it to no longer be gold and grab some clear self adhesive vinyl to color match, provided that does not break functionality.
as far as sanding/prepping, i plan to emulate the process used in the video here:
and i also plan to take pics and make instructions for the whole process.
The Axon 7 forums dont have any physical mod posts, so it will be nice to put one out there as it is the best device i have owned so far. I used to be a Moto man. but they lost me with the novelty of "mods" and Verizon making boot loaders permanently locked.
My Duracoat should be here by the 30th. i really wish i could buy another color midframe that isnt gold, but ZTE parts are a pain to find.
kitcostantino said:
My Duracoat should be here by the 30th. i really wish i could buy another color midframe that isnt gold, but ZTE parts are a pain to find.
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Any news? I really wanna see that phone
lol. im watching a couple of 128/6 atm bc one can should do two. depending on how that pans out, i may be able to start on it this weekend.
no news yet. i missed out on the 128gb i was watching. honestly, the hardest part is gonna be having to use my Droid Turbo for a week while the Duracoat cures. fortunately, Turbo has some awesome devs. im still paranoid the midframe will chip easily on the sides, but even after i duracoat it, i will still use a case.
i also have to decide by what means to prep the surfaces. i figure a fine sandpaper, then the truestrip that came with the duracoat. masking the round parts is going to be a pita.
so in essence, its close, but im still deciding my plan of attack. after the holiday, i should be ready to start.
well, i have the turbo updated and im about to go pick up my sandpaper. the camera ring (if i cant find how to remove it) i am leaving gold. i had initially thought id sand the gold off of the camera, but its under the glass. ordered dbrand skins for the camera. if all works as planned, that is a compromise im willing to accept.
the plan as it stands: (commencing this evening)
1) Sand finish of back, sides, mid-frame after disassembly.
2) clean all with Tru Strip (included with Duracoat Aerosol kit).
3) duracoat 5 layers, heat flashing in between coats.
4) (hardest step) leave alone for a week and allow to cure.
I will add pics or a vid when and if time allows while im in the process.
Im using 3m Sandpaper and a sanding block i picked up from Walmart. totally forgot painters tape. back to the store i go. camera on Turbo pales in comparison to Axon 7, so bear with me in this process.
gold finish is thicker than anticipated. i cant get down to bare metal. might say screw it and go with what i got.
400 grit takes forever. camera flash is dead. i tore the black material under the fingerprint sensor. totally pulled the trigger too soon. gonna paint as is. eying broken ones on ebay. if all else goes well (prepped to duracoat atm) either i will live w/o flash and fingerprint sensor (bc of my own haste) or ill buy a grey A7. either way, this back will look great on another axon 7.
also, the gold on the camera lens is a sticker on the bottom side. popped out, and when i went to grab it, thats when the flash fell out.
its probably doomed to look like crap, but progress.
more
verdict: bad ideas ruined a great project. axon is dead. at least, locked in a boot loop. buttons are stuck. buying grey now. lol. lessons learned.
Try using a razor blade to scrape the inside edges of the button holes.
This case looks promising, but I don't know. It has no reviews anywhere, and was only featured for an old Samsung s6. If anyone on here has it or wants to try it let me know. It comes with glass screen protector, and it's apparently all screwed in. The pricetag is also sort of hefty so idk.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/IMATCH-Alu...hash=item2870b06b48:m:mzVBS8NkURWPndburZIVdig
Damn thing is a tank
Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
Id be worried about cell reception with all that aluminum. If you get it be sure to do a before and after signal test for us.
Learned my lesson with aluminum cases, it ALWAYS affects signal.
abhisek1994 said:
This case looks promising, but I don't know. It has no reviews anywhere, and was only featured for an old Samsung s6. If anyone on here has it or wants to try it let me know. It comes with glass screen protector, and it's apparently all screwed in. The pricetag is also sort of hefty so idk.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/IMATCH-Alu...hash=item2870b06b48:m:mzVBS8NkURWPndburZIVdig
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm actually sending mine back this week. It's just way too impractical. The screen protector it comes with is very cheap so I didn't bother. It's also one of those cases that covers the bottom speaker and routes it to fire forward. I don't like that. You have to unscrew everything just to put the phone in and out and the metal frame, the way it rests on the phone, it doesn't give me a lot of confidence. In fact, I'm afraid it could help put enough pressure on the display to crack it with the way it's designed. Maybe I'm being too paranoid but it's not worth the risk, IMO.
Also, the little pin/lever thing on the side that's meant to move your volume slider? It doesn't work. I have to use two fingers to move both ends at the same time but it doesn't move the slider. Only the plastic pins move. So forget about being able to adjust the volume slider above the power button.
The case in general is just too bulky. I'm a pretty big guy and this case still feels too bulky and awkward to hold. It reminds me of the early days of Otterbox cases when they wanted to promote this "tank" protection-level mentality but today as you can see they've slimmed down and become more practical.
They're keeping about $7 for returning it, regardless of Prime or what return method you choose. FYI.