The Archos 101's speakers are overdriven, so many people are having speakers crap out, even after getting replacements. I replaced mine with higher wattage/sensitivity speakers, and now have no speaker failure, and much better sound quality and loudness. I used two Mouser.com Part # 253-CE221-RO.
I'm not going to bother with pictures, as it's quite simple:
1. Unscrew the Torx screws on back, 6 total. The two closest to the side buttons are longer, make sure you note this. A Torx 4 or 5 bit will be needed, though you could file a flatedge down in a pinch to make it work.
2. Slowly pry open the edges of the case with a plastic wedge. There are free ones included with lots of phone repair kits, or you can file something down in a pinch. Use a flatedge screwdriver if you don't care about scratching the case, but don't push it too far in if it's metal.
3. Once all the clips have popped, open the halves until you see the big flat cable, that's the screens connector. Disconnect it from the back of the screen. Slowly! It has adhesive behind it, let it slowly come apart so you don't rip the aluminum shield on the back of the screen.
4. The Power/Volume buttons will probably fall out, they are all attached together, just set it to the side. Lay the two sides open on a table. There are still 2 things connecting the halves to each other, but you don't need to remove them if you keep the halves close together.
5. Unsolder the old speakers and pry them out. There is a little strip of adhesive holding them in. If you can keep it in place, you can use it to affix the new speakers. Make sure you center the new ones in the hole, there will be a couple of millimeters space left over. Make sure the plastic cone of the speaker will not be touching any adhesive underneath it. If you make sure it's centered, you shouldn't have a problem. Use a couple dots of hot glue to firmly affix them in their holes. Don't overdo it, you don't want glue to seep under the speaker and touch the cones.
6. Reverse the takedown procedure to put everything back together, don't forget the Power/Volume button strip. Also, don't overtighten the screws, you will see a very slight depression on the front of the tablet where the screws are, if it's a noticeable depression, back the screws out a quarter turn.
7. Boot up and enjoy. Make sure you turn the volume down a bit before playing, these speakers are louder than the originals. At full blast it feels like it's going to vibrate the screen to pieces.
I also ripped off my micro usb port, so for anyone with very good soldering skills, or alot of solder braid(and balls), the part number for that is ZX62D-B-5P8. I had to use trace ribbon(Flexible Flat Cable) to remake the traces, as they were ripped off as well. Crack open an old CD-ROM or check the bottom of an old hard drive to find some with the correct pitch if needed.
I'm also adding front speakers on the right hand-hold, kind of like the A70(no room for one on the left on A101). Post a reply if you'd like a parts list and tutorial for that process.
Just finished the testing. I'm updating the OP with results and guide.
Thanks for posting the detailed instructions. Might have to give this a try, given that one of my speakers blew after a couple of weeks. Also intrigued by the front speaker....
How did you identify which speakers would be a suitable replacement?
Yes please, I'd love to have the part list and detailed tutorial for adding front speakers to the A101IT because I can go right down the street to Mouser Electronics because I live close to there and know where it is!
So how well do these new Kobitone Speakers from Mouser fit inside the A101IT; Is it a tight fit or loose one? Also, what is the difference in speaker size (if any difference) and are the stock A101IT speakers' shape circle like the Mouser ones or oval?
Thanks mate!
fisha21 said:
Thanks for posting the detailed instructions. Might have to give this a try, given that one of my speakers blew after a couple of weeks. Also intrigued by the front speaker....
How did you identify which speakers would be a suitable replacement?
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I've built alot of custom electronics, so I measured the old ones and used a bit of experience to guess the rest. There is a couple of millimeters of space left around the speaker, but it's super close, and the original speakers actually have an extra plastic case on them because they couldn't find cheap enough speakers that fit exactly. You won't find a closer match in size to the originals, and they have the best sound of any speaker in this size range.
spicy_puerto_rican: The stock speakers are round, with a large plastic collar to make them slightly larger. My replacements are a few mils smaller, but even the originals needed adhesive to hold them in, so the size difference really isn't an issue. As I said, they have the best sound quality and volume of anything in the size range.
With the loudness of the new speakers, I've decided not to bother putting front speakers in, but if you open your archos, you'll see there is so much space in the right hand-hold you could do almost anything in there. Feel free to experiment.
Thank you! My speakers went bad. I followed your instructions and the new speakers work great. It was difficult, but it would have been even harder without your instructions.
Jason
Tesla74 said:
Thank you! My speakers went bad. I followed your instructions and the new speakers work great. It was difficult, but it would have been even harder without your instructions.
Jason
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem. It's been a couple of months now and they still sound good...
Related
Hi, I have a HTC Pro for sprint, I love everything about it except the battery cover and volume buttons.
The cover creaks, and makes a ton of sound if I try to use the keyboard, one corner is loose, and I believe thats where the sound comes from.
Also the volume keys are hard to use and they sound more like creaking plastic, I cant even tell when it is actually clicking.
Anyone else have this problem? Mine has been like this since day 1.
Any fixes?
I was about to say "Perhaps you have a defective machine, as I also have a Touch Pro from Sprint and have not really noticed this problem" and then I picked it up... top corner as in the back cover right behind about where "Sprint" is printed on the front? Mine actually makes creaky noises there, too... with a bit of push.
I honestly don't notice the noises when I am typing with it, simply because I'm used to keyboards clicking, and noises around me, but I do see what you're saying. I have no fixes to offer, since it seems to be manufacturing rather than a joint or something that could do well with a little dab of WD-40 or something. If the noise takes over my mind, though, you are totally to blame.
Just got mine today. It's very pretty. My first note after only a few hours of usage is the top panel/screen slides a bit to easy, the mogul was a bit more tight...
With some well placed paper, I took small pieces and folded it once, on the corners you can make the cover fit better. This has silenced the creak people are talking about.
Considering the backis a peice of plastic that flexes to lock in and come off,
I don't mind the creaking. I'd prefer this than over a heavy piece of steel
with screws holding it in. The phone is heavy enough as it is.
Sure the quality control isnt' fantastic. The buttons on the face are a little raised up.. but not enough for me to be picky about it. The phones nice, I like it, and i'm happy it's pretty darn good.
Mine creeks too...and the power/volume hard keys dont give good feedback and have minimal travel. I feel as though the power button will break soon, especially since it's used so much to wake the phone. The overal construction is much more beautiful than the mogul, but aside from the keyboard buttons, the construction feels more flimsy, and the slider not as smooth as the mogul.
The touch screen seems to be less sensitive too.
Oh well...it's only a very expensive phone...
My cover creeked pretty bad. I cut a business card to fit and put it under the cover. Problem solved.
i fixed this by putting blue painters tape in layers and cutting to the right size and adding one layer at a time and then putting the cover back on then checking the noise. i reapeated this till it no longer creaked. this is not my fix but posted by someone at ppcgeeks and i think i was linked from there too. but the painters tape has a smooth surface on the non sticky side and it helps the battery cover slip on easily and is easily removed if you need to. hope this helps. oh yea the area around the micro sd slot is the main creaking area on mine and i have heard others say the same. it took 3-4 layers there.
tommy11481 said:
i fixed this by putting blue painters tape in layers and cutting to the right size and adding one layer at a time and then putting the cover back on then checking the noise. i reapeated this till it no longer creaked. this is not my fix but posted by someone at ppcgeeks and i think i was linked from there too. but the painters tape has a smooth surface on the non sticky side and it helps the battery cover slip on easily and is easily removed if you need to. hope this helps. oh yea the area around the micro sd slot is the main creaking area on mine and i have heard others say the same. it took 3-4 layers there.
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I used some thin strip electrical tape 2 layers on the right side next to the camera. "QUITE NOW"
I think its individual defectiveness. My phone creaks only if I put my ear 1 inch away from it when i press the Sprint logo, extremely unnoticeable. It feels much more solid than my last phone, HTC(PPC)6700, the side buttons are all solid and secure and respond well. No tape needed. If this happened to my phone I'd take it back and demand a new one as it retails for 550USD and that sort of defectiveness is unnacceptable. Although my 6700 retailed for 600USD and was much cheaper.
Mine also has a little creek. There isn't much i dislike about this phone besides the lack of working FM at the moment, and most importantly, the performance of 3d applications/games,videos etc.
I'll try the tape thing tonight.
Wow I don't know why I didn't think about putting something behind the cover. I was complaining that mine feels cheap, but I just threw a few post its back there and now it's nice a firm! thanks!
I ordered my first touch pro over the phone, and it felt SO cheap with all of the "symptoms" of what everyone has been saying, but for a different reason I had to exchange it, and the one they gave me at the store feels SO much sturdier.. I am glad I exchanged..
Before we were so rudely interrupted in the original thread, we were discussing the G1 hardware keyboard replacements. Please folks, if you must flame each other do it via PMs to avoid locking legitimate threads.
I've been able to find some inexpensive after market replacements on eBay, but still am not sure how difficult it is to actually do that. All the sites I've been able to find on the subject only provide time-lapse dis-assembly instructions of the entire phone. If anyone has done the replacement themselves, I'd greatly appreciate pointers on how to keep my phone operational after I put it back together.
I replaced the white keyboard in my Dream with a black one. It was a scary operation as it takes a bit of force to dismantle. I accidently pulled my antenna off and disconnected a flylead. ment my phone had no signal at all. later when i got home (did it in work ) i took it apart again and fixed it.
Take your time and have patience, alot of it is plastic and clipped together so requires a bit of force.
May I ask what is wrong with the keys on the bronze one? I did a quick skim of the old post and gather that you can't see the keys in daylight but I don't get why?
I'm just genuinely interested, I have a black G1 so never had such a problem.
brummiesteven said:
May I ask what is wrong with the keys on the bronze one? I did a quick skim of the old post and gather that you can't see the keys in daylight but I don't get why?
I'm just genuinely interested, I have a black G1 so never had such a problem.
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It's the combination of silver keys with light-silver backlight that make the lettering almost impossible to see in day light conditions. I'd take a picture if I had a camera with me today. Whoever came up with that color combination should be fired. Or at least made to stare at it every day for the next year. I have to tilt the keyboard at a weird angle just to distinguish the letters. From what I understand the white G1s suffer from the same problem.
The "Backlight Off" app definitely helps as it lets you toggle the backlight with a keyboard shortcut. I'm looking for a more hardware solution though.
I've been thinking about changing keyboards and housings too. But from what ppl are saying it seems to be pretty exhaustive. Do any of you guys have the service manual? I DL'ed it from somewhere and it goes through each step of disassembly and also shows assembly. I'm sure it would help out to give an idea of what you need. But like I said, even having read the service manual, it's still quite scary.
A full housing from my understanding is a bitc(....doing the KB I can see why. The LCD portions look ridiculously complex in comparison to other phones.
That said if you have the proper tools , good organization or memory , steady hands and patience really shouldnt be "that" tough to do the keyboard.
Heres the thing. Its really not that hard to unscrew things etc...but the piece you need to move in order to get proper access to the KB has 2 ribbons that are a PAIN IN THE ASS to take off and put back properly. Theres so little room for error.If youve never worked with ribbons before BE CAREFUL.
I will say G1 is pretty unique in how its put together , I swear they were determined to make it as complicated as possible
The really pain in the ass part is that the online manual/guide will merely tell you something like "remove part A" but no explanation how. Theres also 2 screws I swear it glossed over leading to frustration when I did the trackball/front keys.
Torx 5 and really good mini screw driver are mandatory.
Nice lil workstation is really helpful..(masking tape ,towel , table lamp or LED headlamp , vitamin/pill cases etc)
Im no mechanical engineer but Ive opened up damn near everything Ive ever owned at some point. Took me a solid 3 hours from start to finish. With major time spent on organizing the screws pieces and those damn ribbons.
I will say the black KB makes a HUGE difference. Black key on the front arent necessary but do look better and add much needed contrast.
KOF33 said:
I will say the black KB makes a HUGE difference. Black key on the front arent necessary but do look better and add much needed contrast.
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Pics, or it didn't happen
Thanks for the tips!
Chahk said:
Pics, or it didn't happen
Thanks for the tips!
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As you can see I also replaced the trackball with a glowing white one.
lol at the trackball
doing a case swap is only bad the first time LMAO. I learned a lot, like for example the brass inserts that the screws go into...are not pre-installed. You must CUT Them out of the old housing and HAMMER them into the new oneBut in the end, it turned out very nice.
As far as just replacing the keyboard, it isnt too bad actually once you know what screws hold what down!
-Remove the 6 torx screws for the back housing
-GENTLY pry open the TOP of the casing with a plastic case tool, work your way down to the bottom of the housing. The bottom is a PITA to remove. I usually get it by rocking it gently back and forth
-remove the long and short coax leads from the motherboard side. swing them out of the way
-peel back the tape and GENTLY pull the bottom connector (mouthpiece module) from the motherboard.
-peel back more tape and lift the latch for the keyboard connector (the one on the side)
-Peel the camera module up SLOWLY (it is double side taped down) as well as the imei card. The cam cable is routed under it, lift it all as a unit. When you get to the motherboard, STOP
-Now, gently twist the whole camera and motherboard unit as a whole until it is free of the latch on the side. Gently lift the camera end exposing the 2 small ribbon connectors on the bottom.
-Peel back the tape and GENTLY lift the ribbon connectors out of the board. Place the motherboard/camera unit to the side for now.
-Remove all the black and silver screws for the metal piece. The lcd should stay in place as the mouthpiece plastics kinda hold it for you, but you should still support it to keep from hurting the connections.
-Viola, keyboard access. Remember when you put it back together be sure to re-tape all the connections, else when you drop your phone one of them may pop loose.
Keeping the motherboard and camera/imea plate all as one module saves you from a very difficult connection and will help you keep everything aligned when reassembling it.
I guess the spacebar has 2 functioning buttons, (left and right) ... well my right side just konked on me, and i was wondering if a replacement keyboard off ebay will fix this, or are they just the button "covers"?
the "buttons" are just plastic nubs that make contact on a board behind it. That board would be what you need. I dont know if there are any on eBay, but I have a spare one if you want to PM me for details.
I dropped my G1 about 6 months ago and was devastated. After entirely too much research I finally got the guts to purchase a replacement digitizer and managed to install it successfully. However, in the process I managed to rip the LCD ribbon cable. I then had to order a replacement LCD screen. I've also damaged one of the black ribbon cables pretty severely causing the touchscreen to become unresponsive sporadically. I've just placed an order for one of those ribbon cables and will hopefully have that up and running soon. I've also purchased an entire new housing unit to rebuild the phone to make it look as new.
Now when I first took this thing apart I was by NO MEANS an expert or have ever done something like this before. I'm just an avid enthusiast who wanted to save a little money, feel a sense of accomplishment and to learn a few things along the way. I technically paid nearly the same amount of money it would have cost me to send the unit to HTC for repair, however i've learned everything there is to know about my phone's hardware. I know which board does what and are extremely confident about fixing ANY hardware problem in the future.
If you have the time, patience, and truly want to become confident about the workings of your phone, then I highly recommend fixing it yourself. I've bought my parts for VERY cheap off of reputable ebay buyers. You can find EVERY single piece for your phone on Ebay. My LCD has 1 dead pixel, but I guess that's the risk you take when you buy really cheap parts.
Hope this helps.
*Note i have not experienced whether the product lives up to its name or not. I only JUST placed it on my device. This is simply my first impression.
**I included pictures of my device compared to the back parts of the adhesive so you can fully grasp the wonderful "custom to fit" experience.
I just now got as close to perfection as i think i am going to get with placing my "custom to fit" screen protector onto my device. At very first glance i saw that their were going to be some slight imperfections. The random circle on the top right of the adhesive was a dead giveaway. The cut out they have for the top speaker and the bottom row of buttons is hardly CLOSE to the size it should be. It is much too big. I am not sure if it is clear enough in the pictures but their is excess adhesive on the sides. I figured they may be meant to fold down to protect a minuscule amount of siding. At first i could not get it to stick on the sides. But after giving it a few minutes to settle and let the application spray* dry, it seems to be holding. However, the border has really ugly bubbles from the very tony inlay of the front of the phone. The instructions say that MICRObubbles will disappear in their own after a couple days... i hardly find these MICRObubbles though. We will see. I think it is almost supposed to have a "melting" effect on the device. Like heated plastic sort of taking the proper shape over the device.
Now we move onto the back. You will see that i have been given 3 holes instead of 2. (2 being the camera lens and the button underneath). I have no idea what the third was meant for.... I can also forget about taking the backing off of my device as it is now sealed shut with the plastic invisible shield. This doesn't bother me that much since i rarely ever have to take the back out but i know their will be a day where i will need to.
All-in-all the product LOOKS promising still. The bottom line here that i would like to make is that i have NO idea what TouchPro2 they are basing this off of. but it is far from mine. Too far. I need to check but i am also fairly certain they ask for your provider too (in case the device is different than others)
I am also still wondering about the excess sides. it is very random in the back but they make no mention of needing to trim the shield.
*They give you a spray that you use on your fingertips and the adhesive so that a. you dont give it fingerprint smudges and b. it doesnt fully stick right away so that you can "slide" it into place. I found that "sliding" it around was impossible because it still stuck but it did not stick enough to the point i was unable to retry.
I really hope this means something to somebody. Had i read something like this before hand, i may have thought longer on buying the product. I will be sure to write more in the next few days. By the feel of the material on my phone, it seems like it could work really well.
I would also love to know other people's experience with this product and even maybe correct me if anything i complained about was just due to stupidity.
It very much looks like you bought Invisible Shield for the wrong Touch Pro 2 model.
It looks like you have the one for the unlocked/unbranded model:
http://www.zagg.com/invisibleshield/htc-touch-pro-2-cases-screen-protectors-covers-skins-shields.php
When in fact you want the T-Mobile model.
http://www.zagg.com/invisibleshield/htc-touch-pro-2-t-mobile-cases-screen-protectors-covers-skins-shields.php
It looks like the shape of your T-Mob branded TP2 is actually quite different from the unbranded version. The shape of the shield is therefore quite different between the models, based on the pictures on the Zagg website. Also, the layout of the battery cover is totally different, which is why the cutouts on the shield don't match your battery cover. This also accounts for the 3rd small hole on this piece. In addition to the camera lens and speakerphone button, the unbranded TP2 has small holes for the speaker just below the speakerphone button, and that is what the 3rd hole in the shield is for. I'm guessing on the T-Mob version, the speaker hole is located as part of the larger cutout/hole.
Not to be mean but it's really obvious that it wasn't made for a T-Mobile Touch Pro2 and you should have known that it wasn't the right one.
Just going to the Touch Pro2 forums you can see that there's different versions of the device and ours is usually always referred as the "T-Mobile Touch Pro2" when being specific.
The cover does seem worth buying though.
Yeah i just inquired about it. I did buy the T-Mobile one and they just sent the wrong one.
redpoint73 said:
In addition to the camera lens and speakerphone button, the unbranded TP2 has small holes for the speaker just below the speakerphone button, and that is what the 3rd hole in the shield is for. I'm guessing on the T-Mob version, the speaker hole is located as part of the larger cutout/hole.
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Oddly, the Tilt2 had little holes in the back case in the same spot, despite the fact that it is just the battery sitting behind the holes. I always figured it was just a way to give water quick access to the battery compartment to turn that little strip pink incase we ever dropped it somewhere damp...
So as many people here know, the rear camera is a sore point on the Transformer Prime, in that it's known to go bad early and often. Not to beat a dead horse, here's how we fix the situation:
Replacing the rear camera module:
Yes it seems logical that this would be all you would need, but I've just confirmed myself that in fact it is only the camera module with a problem. The main issue with the fix is FINDING a good camera. I was a bit discouraged on my first attempt as I bought a rear camera on ebay listed as "working" from a parted out Transformer Prime only to go to the hassle of installing it and it not working. I can't say I was surprised, but after trying to find one for so long I took the chance. Upon recieving my refund, I purchased another rear webcam that surprisingly also surfaced. The seller for this second camera had TONS of feedback, and mostly products with the word "foxconn" in the title, indicating this guy seems to have a line on foxconn surplus parts, which for us is awesome. The camera I received appears to be brand new and fired up immediately! Not trying to push a particular seller but since many people are probably looking for this part, I'll post the link http://www.ebay.com/itm/Asus-Eee-Pa...?pt=US_Tablet_Accessories&hash=item416a33f1f9. The seller is skyline27 and he appears to have one left right now (I bought the second). NOW, enough theory, onto the howto.
HOWTO (the good stuff)
0. Turn off Tablet (thanks whycali)
1. Remove screen as instructed in other disassembly threads (wifi fix threads, etc) Advice for this includes working from the bottom first, being vary carefly to NEVER use the pry tool at either the latch holes or the bottom port, as these very thin pieces of aluminum will bend. Get your tool in (heh heh) to the left or right of these "holes" in the case, then slide the tool sideways past them to avoid prying outwards. Get the entire bottom free, then slowly work up the sides with your plastic tools/credit card. When you get to the top, try gently pulling the screen "Down" or the port. You can also pull up like the rest, but when I disassembled I saw what looked like "hooks" that made me want to slide the top out last by pulling it towards the dock port.
1.2 (I forgot) Flip switch on right side of motherboard (top board) that will disconnect power to the motherboard before disconnecting the battery. Don't forget to switch it back when finished, or it won't turn on. (thanks whycali)
1.5 (I forgot) unscrew and remove flash and microphone at top
2. You can either disconnect the screen ribbon cable from the motherboard *top board* (makes your life easier) or simply set the screen upside down, rotated 90, and to the left of the opened prime. This allows the cables to sit fairly easily, though since you'll be removing the motherboard anyways it may be easier to unplug
3. Unscrew 8 battery screws, carefully unplug wide connector (I used precision flathead to the left and right of plug as to not 'yank'). Set battery aside.
4. Be sure every cable is unplugged from the Motherboard. This includes a small battery on the left side, the power button/volume cable top left, as well as the speaker cable on the right side.
5. Remove all motherboard screws. Be sure you get them all, you don't want to snap the motherboard in half in a minute because we'll be pulling against a little adhesive.
6. Be careful. REMOVE MOTHERBOARD This is the step you're most likely to have an issue, but it's still really easy. Time to remove the motherboard. This is easy if you know what to expect.
6a Both cameras are slightly adhesived into their holes, also plugged to back of motherboard. You can either try and pull these with the mobo, or let them stay where they are and pull them out later (probably easier for beginners)
6b There is a thermal pad about 1/3 away from the left where the CPU is. It is a bit adhesive, but not too much
6c MOST IMPORTANT - The motherboard is sort of "sandwiched" into the ports on the sides. That is, it doesn't want to pull straight up and out, the hdmi and headphone jacks are in the way. I believe it's very easy to break the HDMI and/or headphone jack here, yet I haven't yet. 2 ways to approach, one is to pull the side of the tablet outward slightly at the headphone jack to slide it up, allowing you to lift that side of the board, then sliding to the right to clear the hdmi. The second method which I prefer, is pulling up on the mobo from the center, causing the outer edges to pull inward slightly as the board flexes a bit. Choose whichever you prefer
7. Replace the camera. If you're this far along, I really shouldn't have to explain this. The front and rear sit side by side, your front is probably good, there's a piece of tape over the connectors, pull up, replace rear, make sure plugged in firmly on both, replace tape.
Installation is reverse of removal. I recommend plugging the screen ribbon (and all ribbon cables) into the motherboard before reinstalling it, as the connectors are on the bottom of the board and very difficult to get at once installed in the prime. Again, flex the motherboard or prime slightly to clear the ports going back in. Be sure cameras are attached to the motherboard, when installing, be sure to double check one last time that they're still plugged into the board before putting the board down and letting the cameras sit in their plastic holders. And don't forget that internal power switch on the right side of the motherboard.
FWIW, and I'm sure many will disagree with me, but I typically check everything before snapping the screen back up by booting it up with a few sheets of paper between the screen and internals as an extra safety insulator. Check screen, touch screen, both cameras, SD card, speaker, then I snap it shut.
If anyone really needs pictures I think I have a few, though not really specifically of what I was doing, but I could highlight/circle the pics I have if anyone gets stuck.
I really hope I can help others get a working camera who can't/won't RMA for the issue. Now time to UNLOCK MUAHAHAHA!!!
One thing I mostly remember to do when I plan to disassemble the ribbon cables is to turn off the internal power switch first.
I know this is an older thread but does anybody know where to get a new camera. The one that is linked to in the above post is no longer available. Thanks
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk 2
So, I was never a believer when I heard of people cleaning the lint out of their headphone jacks and getting them to work again.
That is, until I found a quick and easy solution to fix it. I've read of people using compressed air, paper clips and electric parts cleaners. So I had some duct tape handy and an idea popped into my head. I took a small strip of tape and twirled it into a small enough stick shape, inserted it into the jack and turned it and pulled it out. I did this several times removing a tiny amount of lint each time. The amount of lint that I pulled out was so small that I didn't think it was going to make a difference. Then I plugged in my headphones and, bam, they worked like new!
As a side note, the jack on my phone is loose and wiggly, so naturally I thought that maybe the connections inside the phone were loose and I was going to have take the phone apart to try and fix it. My headphones would connect and disconnect whenever I would wiggle or even touch my headphone jack and it gradually got worse. Then one day it stopped working altogether.
This is not some gimmick. Give it a try. And never insert anything metal or sharp into the jack. You could damage the contacts.
Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2
Juice3250 said:
This is not some gimmick. Give it a try. And never insert anything metal or sharp into the jack. You could damage the contacts.
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I'm a diehard lurker, but I have to bump this. Just fixed the exact same issue on a heavily abused Razr Maxx that I'd received from a friend, after months of dealing without headphones.
If you shine a light into the headphone jack and can't see the contacts at the very bottom, it's definitely lint that's keeping the jack from working. Personally, I had to use a paperclip to loosen it up a bit, but I'm pretty sure mine was a special case. Don't attempt with anything metal/sharp unless you have a light touch, and the tape on its own isn't helping.
I just tried this method on my Xperia Sola and it worked , I just reverse wrapped a duct tape on a piece of tooth pick so that the sticky part is outside and I entered it through the hole and turned it and pulled it out multiple times till all the Lint(en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lint) were gone.
It cleaned the inner part and now it is working like new.
Simple but effective fix!
I was about to send my Xperia Z1 Compact for repair for this very reason, but I stumbled across this post. Thanks so much! Saved me a lot of hassle and embarrassment. A big ball of fluff came out of the headphone jack and now the sound is great. Cheers!
tahsnks for the idea, i finally used a standar pin with electrical tape around it and worked great!
Never had a problem with my DX2, but used this with both my Droid 3, and Droid 4
Problem solved
I was about to throw my nexus 5 out the window because of the issue with the headphones and i didnt want to i already had thrown out a previous cellphone because of this. I just turned off the phone ( paranoid paper clip or something could make contact with something and mess it up. And started to slowly pick and poke away. The amount of lint I pulled out was unbelievable! I didn't stop until i saw a shiny bottom. Now it's works perfectly fine . someone should invent something to either prevent this or an item to clean it. Just saying. Thanks!
Wooh! a big as$ thank you man! the way you worded your post was the only thing that made me give this charm a try. Now I'm the lucky owner of TWO working headphones haha
Mine does not have lint.I have cleaned it. But still it does not produce sound when I plug the earphone. I have to hold the earphone tightly to connect fully with the audio jack. Can you help me guys?
I tried this and I was able to clean out some lint, it helped some, but I still have to push it one way to get sound