!UPDATE!
Starting a Barrel Charger keyboard Dock MOD Thread. If you want yours done for free I'm looking for a volunteer to send me a keyboard dock to modify with standard barrel charging adapter. Stay tuned for the tread link
Covering 3 popular charging topics
1. Why you can't use a USB 2.0 extension cable with the factory charger
2. Testing data proving the Tablet needs 11V or higher to chartge
3. Off the shelf parts and spare parts to make a Wall charger
4. Off the shelf parts and spare parts to make a Car Charger
1.Why you can't use a USB 2.0 with the factory charger
Because the charger is looking for termination of Pin 7 from the Tablet to start sending 15 Volts. Pin 7 is a USB 3 pin, not available in usb 2.0 so the charger never sees termination and continues to send 5V. This is why if you connect your phone or other 5V usb device to the charger it will charge at 5V.
The only way to trick the charger into always sending 15V so that you can use a 2.0 extension cable is to take it apart and bridge ground with pin 7. But you will not be able to use the charger for any other device, not worth it IMO.
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Here you can see that pins 5-9 are USB 3.0 only.
2. Testing Data
-The Tablet looks for more than 11V to start charging
-With a source other than from the ASUS charger I supplied pins 1 (RED HOT)and 2 (Black Ground) with 13.5 volts and it charges. My source was a 12V AC to DC power supply I use for testing DC devices.
-My power source was pushing 1.5 Amps during the charge
-All other pins were disconnected on the USB extension.
Its all about voltage. Any AC to DC adapter that supplies at least 11 Volts that has a female usb adapter with ground to pin 1 (RED HOT)and 2 (Black Ground)
CONFIRMED: I Connected my 13 V source to pins 1 and 4 on a USB 2.0 extension cable and it worked.
The Asus charger does need a 3.0 cable extension to work. But with a DIY charger you don't need USB 3.0 cables or connectors.
WARNING! Please know your technical limits and understand that any instructions you follow in this thread are at your own risk.
DIY ADAPTERS
--------------
Wall charging - Any Voltage selectable DC wall adapter that supports at least 11 Volts 1 Amp will work. You will need to add a female DC barrel to USB Female cable which are available cheap or can be made which I will post pics.
Off the shelf Parts $13.99 Total
!IMPORTANT! PLEASE BE AWARE OF POLARITY WHEN USING THESE UNIVERSAL ADAPTERS. YOU WILL DAMAGE YOUR TABLET IF THE POLARITY IS WRONG.
Check this SITE for information on setting up the tips for the correct polarity.
I check polarity every time I connect and disconnect my tablet when testing. If you have basic voltage meter and one USB cable you can sacrifice I suggest you test the polarity by creating a test cable. Cut the cable, expose the bare wire on red and black then test with your meter while connected to your generic charger. If your meter shows a "-" while showing the voltage your polarity is WRONG. If it doesn't show a "-" or in some cases a "+" your polarity is right.
Adjustable Voltage DC wall charger -EBAY $11 shipped.
UK Equivalent
Generic AC/DC Adapter Up to 12V and 1500Amps
5.5mm DC Female Barrel to USB Female cable - EBAY $2.99 Shipped EBAY UK LINK
EBAY UK LINK
Plug the adapter cable into the 5.5 connector on the DC adapter, set it to 12V , connect the factory Asus cable to the adapter cable and you are charging. Your 3.0 extension cable will work with this as well as any 2.0 extension cable. I'm waiting for the adapter cable and will post pics of the components connected together.
Or you can get an adjustable charger that comes with a USB Female adapter like this one
Building with spare parts
I'll be taking a 12 or 14 volt DC adapter I have and wiring a USB end directly to it. If you are a gadget person you might just have some spare DC adapters. Pictures soon. I'll also be making a version that includes the adapter cable from above.
Charging in the Car - Any Voltage selectable Car DC adapter that supports at least 11 Volts 1 Amp will work. You will need to add a female DC barrel to USB Female cable which are available cheap or can be made which I will post pics. You will be able to use the same adapter cable as above, you just need the car adapter
Off the shelf Parts $10.98 Total
Auto DC adapter Adjustable starting at 15V - EBAY $7.99 Shipped
5.5mm DC Female Barrel to USB Female cable - EBAY $2.99 Shipped
Plug the adapter cable into the 5.5 connector on the DC car adapter, set it to 12-15V , connect the factory Asus cable to the adapter cable and you are charging. Your 3.0 extension cable will work with this as well as any 2.0 extension cable. I'm waiting for the adapter cable and will post pics of the components connected together.
Multi function Car & Wall charger,
This is interesting, it has input for AC and DC so you can use it in the Car and at home.
Generic adjustable Car and Wall charger
For charging on a PC. - Not possible, There is no way to double the voltage from one power supply, connecting 2 cables together will not increase volts only AMPS.
OTHER KNOWN CHARGERS THAT WORK
Dynex DX-UA - Universal laptop/camera charger. $29
Radio Shack 12V adapter Comes with a free USB tip $30
X1 PST-1200UF NOTE: Even though this one comes with a USB tip you still Need to add the USB adapter cable because the manufacturer limits 5V to that one USB tip in the package.
UNTESTED BUT SHOULD WORK
PowerLine 90304 Need to add USB adapter cable
Generic adjustable Car and Wall charger Need to add USB adapter cable
My mess of a test bench =]
~DC
Just updated the OP and man this is frustrating, the charger is very sensitive.
try to get a scope, it is possible that the charge controller is in the tf while the charge circuitry is in the charger. the two middle pins might be control signals which would explain why touching them stops the charger. the lack of signals on the middle pins may explain why when using the dynex charger you lose the battery meter.
Rumbleweed said:
try to get a scope, it is possible that the charge controller is in the tf while the charge circuitry is in the charger. the two middle pins might be control signals which would explain why touching them stops the charger. the lack of signals on the middle pins may explain why when using the dynex charger you lose the battery meter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
DONE
It's voltage people, all voltage. No fancy communicating with the charger. Right now I have a DC power supply use for powering DV voltage devices connected directly to pins 1 and 4 supplying it with 13.8 Volts and it is charging. All other pins are disconnected. This is why the Dynex works, because it is 11 V.
Back to the OP with a follow up.
Something is still missing. If only pins 1 and 4 are used by the charger, then a usb 2.0 cable with four pin/conductors should work as an extension, but it doesn't.
would something like this work to charge from 2 usb ports?
http://www.amazon.com/Apricorn-Power-Adapter-Cable-AUSB-Y/dp/B000JIOHDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1306378019&sr=8-1
Rumbleweed said:
Something is still missing. If only pins 1 and 4 are used by the charger, then a usb 2.0 cable with four pin/conductors should work as an extension, but it doesn't.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
True but my goal is to come up with more charging options. I've been charging my tablet for about 45 mins now, voltage and amps have been steady, 13.8 and 1.6.
skchan2 said:
would something like this work to charge from 2 usb ports?
http://www.amazon.com/Apricorn-Power-Adapter-Cable-AUSB-Y/dp/B000JIOHDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1306378019&sr=8-1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Possibly, I'm testing the 10V theory now.
skchan2 said:
would something like this work to charge from 2 usb ports?
http://www.amazon.com/Apricorn-Power-Adapter-Cable-AUSB-Y/dp/B000JIOHDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1306378019&sr=8-1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Scratch the hole 2 USB connectios theory, you cant combine 2 voltage from one power source in series. But i'm looking into what those dual cables actually do.
Someone should disassemble there Asus charger, i couldn't figure out how to pry it open, so i gave up before i broke the plastic shell
Someone needs to get an oscilloscope going on the cable , there has got to be a reason Asus chose USB 3.0 connectors, which i think it is for some accessories down the road, who knows
SlimDan22 said:
Someone should disassemble there Asus charger, i couldn't figure out how to pry it open, so i gave up before i broke the plastic shell
Someone needs to get an oscilloscope going on the cable , there has got to be a reason Asus chose USB 3.0 connectors, which i think it is for some accessories down the road, who knows
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not going to argue with you on that one. The dynex is working for people and so is my rig.
skchan2 said:
would something like this work to charge from 2 usb ports?
http://www.amazon.com/Apricorn-Power-Adapter-Cable-AUSB-Y/dp/B000JIOHDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1306378019&sr=8-1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's not going to work because those cables are all in parallel, they increase the Amps not the voltage. The only way to increase the voltage is through series and you have 2 seperate power sources.
DevCake said:
That's not going to work because those cables are all in parallel, they increase the Amps not the voltage. The only way to increase the voltage is through series and you have 2 seperate power sources.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol reading that made me feel like i was back in circuits I
Updated OP with parts needed to make a wall and car charger for under $14. Posting pics of custom versions made with spare parts.
DevCake said:
Updated OP with parts needed to make a wall and car charger for under $14. Posting pics of custom versions made with spare parts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for this, awesome job. Its still a joke asus does have a supported one. I guess ill trade that for the fact the 3.1 update will be timely. These force closes are killing me!
unable to find
Hi Devcake
Icant seem to find the USB /power lead could you give another link please. I am in the UK.
Many thanks for your article just what was needed.
Carl
Ebay item #270571233814 is the 5.5 to USB adapter
UK_Computing_CablesConnectors_RL&hash=item20b735a891
Thanks for that, but not available for the UK. Will try on the UK site.
Many thanks
Carl
Nice guide. Added to ultimate thread. Have posted a warning too, as I can see people burning their houses down trying this out with no technical knowledge.
Once you receive the items and can confirm that this works, can you post the links to the items on ebay? Thanks a ton!
Related
Hi all,
Just got my hands on my new Asus Transformer. Just getting to grips with the USB 3.0 charging problems, etc... Sorry for not reading through the other posts in there entirity, in a bit of a rush to go on holidays and need mobile charging!
I need to keep the device alive and charging in the car (kids, angry birds, i'm sure you understand!).
What can I use? I thought my 12v cigar to USB would work as with my old android phone, but it clearly doesnt as it doesnt charge while the device is on.
What are my current options for immediate purchase here in the UK?
Thanks in advance.
Hi
There are no options, at the moment, either here in the UK or elsewhere.....
....except if you make your own charger....cable.....trouble is that two things : first, the 40-pin proprietary plug that connects to the TF/dock; these are not available anywhere yet and secondly that regular 12v USB chargers do not chuch out anywhere near enough juice for the TF
ASUS UK are in the process of getting TF accessories available see here .... but that's it, unless you want to make your own.
Your only option right now is to get a Car power inverter and use the wall charger.
PhoenixFx said:
Your only option right now is to get a Car power inverter and use the wall charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hiya, yeah, already got one of those but am looking for an aternative, have ordered a longer USB 3.0 lead so at least i can do that...
Thanks
kevpuk said:
Hi
There are no options, at the moment, either here in the UK or elsewhere.....
....except if you make your own charger....cable.....trouble is that two things : first, the 40-pin proprietary plug that connects to the TF/dock; these are not available anywhere yet and secondly that regular 12v USB chargers do not chuch out anywhere near enough juice for the TF
ASUS UK are in the process of getting TF accessories available see here .... but that's it, unless you want to make your own.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd definately have a go at making my own, if only I could get the connectors! As for the 12v USB adaptors, im sure I could make some mods to get enough power! ;-)
gavin watson said:
I'd definately have a go at making my own, if only I could get the connectors! As for the 12v USB adaptors, im sure I could make some mods to get enough power! ;-)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
check out this post of mine in the "short cable" thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=16320775#post16320775
you can do it for about £27 with generally-available parts.
goes without saying i hope ---- triple-check polarities/ voltages etc. before plugging anything in!
poster bob smith42 has posted some useful guides.
theabsurdman said:
check out this post of mine in the "short cable" thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=16320775#post16320775
you can do it for about £27 with generally-available parts.
goes without saying i hope ---- triple-check polarities/ voltages etc. before plugging anything in!
poster bob smith42 has posted some useful guides.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To sum up that post, all you need is any car charger that puts out close to 15v at 2amps or more. Then you put a regular USB female port on the end of it (either through an adapter or by wiring it up directly). Then you use the standard ASUS cable to connect it to your tablet.
rtadams89 said:
To sum up that post, all you need is any car charger that puts out close to 15v at 2amps or more. Then you put a regular USB female port on the end of it (either through an adapter or by wiring it up directly). Then you use the standard ASUS cable to connect it to your tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most car's electrical systems are at 14-14.5V when the car is running. I've seen posts that say the TF will start charging at 11V, so even with the car off, there should be enough voltage to charge directly from the car's electrical system. Obviously a fuse is recommended, and voltage regulation would be nice, but shouldn't be necessary.
I haven't had the need to charge my TF in the car yet, but I plan to put a usb 3.0 socket in my car, and use a switch, or watch pin 7 for ground(or whichever it was, will double-check obviously), to toggle between a 5V supply and the car's 12V system.
Hi, thanks for the info. Do we know the pinout for the female USB socket? Thanks.
gavin watson said:
Hi, thanks for the info. Do we know the pinout for the female USB socket? Thanks.
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Click to collapse
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You'll be connecting ground to pin 4 and +11-15V to pin 1. Do not use with normal USB devices, it will supply the 11-15V to the same pin that normal USB uses for +5V, so it's a fairly certain instant-fry. Change pin 1 to 5V for normal devices. To switch between 5V and ~15V, I plan on using the same method the wall charger uses, watching for ground on pin 7(pin number needs verification). If you switch it manually, or don't switch at all, you can use a standard USB 2.0 socket instead of the 3.0(The pic is 2.0, 3.0 has 5 extra pins behind the first 4, there will be fewer pins to get in your way when soldering).
If you buy one of these http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Inve..._1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1312550809&sr=1-1
Then just plug the Asus charging power block into that. This looks like the easiest solution right now.
You don't need a 175 watt one, that's just the first one i saw on amazon. The power block has a max of 2A rating with 15v so that is only 30 watts(v * a = w).
chatch15117 said:
If you buy one of these http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Inve..._1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1312550809&sr=1-1
Then just plug the Asus charging power block into that. This looks like the easiest solution right now.
You don't need a 175 watt one, that's just the first one i saw on amazon. The power block has a max of 2A rating with 15v so that is only 30 watts(v * a = w).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice. Lots of 110v 75 watt items on ebay, too.
75W 12V DC To 110V/220V Power Inverter Car Adapter USB
Car AC Power Inverter 150W Pop-can 12V To 120V w/USBH42 (This one looks pretty cool in my opinion)
I have no idea if these will work with TF101. Has anyone tried yet?
It should work.
I used to have this one: http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-CPI-150-Micro-150-Inverter/dp/B000F6NULK/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
Small enough to carry around + airplane adapter.
An inverter is a good solution for charger the TF without much fuss. If someone wants to wire something directly to the cig lighter, be sure to unplug your TF when starting the car to avoid voltage spikes.
zepheris.hk said:
An inverter is a good solution for charger the TF without much fuss. If someone wants to wire something directly to the cig lighter, be sure to unplug your TF when starting the car to avoid voltage spikes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Find one with high and low voltage protection and you don't have to worry about spikes.
tengtengvn said:
Find one with high and low voltage protection and you don't have to worry about spikes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He said that in regard to directly wiring to the car's electrical system, not an inverter. Are you suggesting he buy a car with over/under voltage protection?
P.S. @ zepheris.hk
Since the TF expects 15V(and the internal regulator should be able to handle up to 37v for a couple seconds), I doubt you need to worry about spikes from a direct connection to the car's system. Besides, I've never seen a car that spikes when starting. You'd notice all the lights get brighter, instead of dimming as they normally do(from the voltage sag induced by the starter's amp draw). That isn't to say that there can't be other spikes if something is wrong with your electrical system though. I recommend a resistor to limit amperage at the very least, if you're brave, the internal regulator should be able to handle any over/reverse voltage(within reason) as long as there's current limiting.
Bob Smith42 said:
Nice. Lots of 110v 75 watt items on ebay, too.
75W 12V DC To 110V/220V Power Inverter Car Adapter USB
Car AC Power Inverter 150W Pop-can 12V To 120V w/USBH42 (This one looks pretty cool in my opinion)
I have no idea if these will work with TF101. Has anyone tried yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
110v inverters are all the same, basically, so as long as it meets your wattage requirements(30W) it will work. I suggest 90-100W though so you can charge a laptop also, if needed. Most laptops are 60-100W.
My experience so far...
Yesterday on a long journey I used a 175w 12vdc - 230vac inverter with the original mains adaptor that comes with the TF. Can't link to the inverter, I bought it a while ago from Maplin (UK) and hadnt used it.
All worked fine.
The TF AC adaptor got a bit warm, slightly more than usual, but nothing to get worried about. The charging went fine, I couldnt use it permanently connected and in use because of the stupid length of the cable and my 3.0 USB extension hadnt arrived before we set off.
I've just bought another 3.0 USB cable and a cigar lighter plug and will attempt to connect it up by using the (approx.) 13.8vdc directly from the cigar outlet in my car. I can't see why that wont work?
I might just wait until the warrantly company confirm my TF is on their database before I attempt this, but will post back soon.
Thansk for all the tips and info guys.
gavin watson said:
My experience so far...
Yesterday on a long journey I used a 175w 12vdc - 230vac inverter with the original mains adaptor that comes with the TF. Can't link to the inverter, I bought it a while ago from Maplin (UK) and hadnt used it.
All worked fine.
The TF AC adaptor got a bit warm, slightly more than usual, but nothing to get worried about. The charging went fine, I couldnt use it permanently connected and in use because of the stupid length of the cable and my 3.0 USB extension hadnt arrived before we set off.
I've just bought another 3.0 USB cable and a cigar lighter plug and will attempt to connect it up by using the (approx.) 13.8vdc directly from the cigar outlet in my car. I can't see why that wont work?
I might just wait until the warrantly company confirm my TF is on their database before I attempt this, but will post back soon.
Thansk for all the tips and info guys.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Like I said, the cigar outlet should work fine, but you don't need a 3.0 cable, you can just use a 2.0 to simplify the wiring, and using a 3.0 cable won't protect other devices from overvoltage anyways.
I recommend a 7.5 Ohm resistor to limit the amperage to 2 amps: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=TR50JBD7R50-ND
This one is a 50W, so it should be able to handle 2 amps without heatsinking.
Long term, I'd suggest adding a decoupling capacitor to get rid of some of the noise from the car's electrical system, something like:http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=P12389-ND.
For just one trip though, you should be fine without any added protection. I would suggest the resistor though, as the outlet will give it up to about 10 amps, and I don't know if the internal regulator in the TF is limited by itself, or by the charger(which only puts out 2 amps). If you don't use a resistor, watch the battery/case temperature like a hawk, especially when the battery is being charged from a very low level(0-25%), this is the highest draw portion of the charging cycle, and consequently, the hottest.
Transformer needs 1.5A output cigarette lighter. If you can find one, you're golden.
So my charger isn't charging correctly, and I figured I'd try the Dynex universal charger. I wasn't up for soldering and measuring voltages, etc. Best Buy wanted $30 for it, but I found it on an amazon store for $6.50!
http://www.amazon.com/Dynex-Universal-Camera-Camcorder-Adapter/dp/B003RXH7WG/
(only 2 left in stock at this price)
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It just arrived and it's charging my TF + dock perfectly. I heard it charges a hair slower than the stock charger, but I don't mind. I also got an RMA for my ASUS charger, so now I can send it back to be fixed.
There are so many people are complaining about the charging issue that it sounds like a flawed design by ASUS. What I don't understand is: Why would anyone take a chance buying a new stock ASUS charger for $30+ when it might also be faulty? Especially when you can get one of these Dynex chargers for almost 1/6th the price!
Very.cool if this offer is here next week Ima try it ty
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App
I wouldnt wait around if you want it at this price. There's only 2 left in stock!
I picked up this same charger for around the same price a few months ago. It has worked flawlessly. Now I would just like to purchase the Asus usb cable without the AC plug.
That's a good deal!
I called asus earlier today and got an rma for my charger. About an hour ago I tested another charger and I think I found out its the cable.
With the other charger, my cable didn't charge but with the other cable and my charger, it worked.
Sent from my Dell Streak XDA premium app - please excuse my miswyping
This might be better item than you realize.
The voltage switch you see in the picture is disconnected from the wall plug piece. The wall plug piece is 15v and has a 6 foot wire to 5.5mm barrel plug, e.g. almost perfect for the TF101.
If you convert the connector to female USB you can plug the TF 40 pin USB cable directly into the wall plug piece, because you do not need the voltage switch and tips. The converter is difficult to find but I have found them on ebay.
Once I realized this information, I also found the wall plug 15v items separately on ebay.
However, the voltage switch and tips are very nice for charging other stuff, like iphone, cell phone, other tablets, etc., at 5v.
Just to make sure I understand this correctly....does this replace my ac plug if say i lose the plug and this will actually plug into my TF (since it uses a proprietary connection) or do I still need that connection and can use this for something else?
I saw this at walmart about a month ago for like $15. I had it in my cart and at checkout I took it out because I "felt" I wouldn't need it and wanted to save the money. Lol.
It definitely looks like a useful thing to have around the house.
Bob Smith42 said:
This might be better item than you realize.
The voltage switch you see in the picture is disconnected from the wall plug piece. The wall plug piece is 15v and has a 6 foot wire to 5.5mm barrel plug, e.g. almost perfect for the TF101.
If you convert the connector to female USB you can plug the TF 40 pin USB cable directly into the wall plug piece, because you do not need the voltage switch and tips. The converter is difficult to find but I have found them on ebay.
Once I realized this information, I also found the wall plug 15v items separately on ebay.
However, the voltage switch and tips are very nice for charging other stuff, like iphone, cell phone, other tablets, etc., at 5v.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, you can buy the barrel to female USB on eBay. Check the diy charger thread for links and info on polarity. I was going to buy this from best buy when my charger first started acting up but I found a similar one in my garage! Now just waiting on my barrel to female USB to come in :-D
elosogrande7076 said:
Just to make sure I understand this correctly....does this replace my ac plug if say i lose the plug and this will actually plug into my TF (since it uses a proprietary connection) or do I still need that connection and can use this for something else?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You still need the Asus USB cable that came with your tf. This just provides a 15v USB plug which is hard to find as most are only 5v and the tf needs above 11v to charge.
Bob Smith42 said:
This might be better item than you realize.
The voltage switch you see in the picture is disconnected from the wall plug piece. The wall plug piece is 15v and has a 6 foot wire to 5.5mm barrel plug, e.g. almost perfect for the TF101.
If you convert the connector to female USB you can plug the TF 40 pin USB cable directly into the wall plug piece, because you do not need the voltage switch and tips. The converter is difficult to find but I have found them on ebay.
Once I realized this information, I also found the wall plug 15v items separately on ebay.
However, the voltage switch and tips are very nice for charging other stuff, like iphone, cell phone, other tablets, etc., at 5v.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm guessing this is the adapter you are referring to:
http://cgi.ebay.com/USB-Female-5525-Plug-Female-USB-5V-Power-Adapter-/140408839695?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b104de0f#ht_2208wt_874
The description for this adapter says 5v, so will it support 15v? Is this safe?
It's no longer $6.50.
Xxq TZ pxX said:
I'm guessing this is the adapter you are referring to:
http://cgi.ebay.com/USB-Female-5525-Plug-Female-USB-5V-Power-Adapter-/140408839695?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b104de0f#ht_2208wt_874
The description for this adapter says 5v, so will it support 15v? Is this safe?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right, that is it. There are lots of resellers on ebay.
Almost everything using USB is 5v -- EXCEPT the ASUS TF101 which puts 15v on the standard USB power lines. In my opinion, the cable shown can easily & safely handle the power levels. Just make sure nothing else (e.g. 5v stuff) gets plugged into the female USB socket at 15v.
RojasTKD said:
It's no longer $6.50.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just search "dx-ua" on ebay or google. Lots more on the web.
I bought a Griffin Powerjolt Dual Micro adapter (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042B9U8Q/ref=oh_o01_s00_i00_details). It supposedly can do 1A on each port. I modded it as the commenters on Amazon suggested (open up, solder the middle pins on each side together so that it's recognized as an AC charger rather than USB).
Both my Flyer (Leedroid HC rom) and Evo 4G see it correctly as an AC charger. However, monitoring the current via Elixir says it's not getting near 1A. For example, the flyer was showing somewhere between -500ma and -700ma while unplugged (GPS on, wifi tethering). When I plugged it into this charger, it was showing around -50ma. So it's getting only around 600ma of juice, not 1000ma.
Testing my Evo on the charger showed the same.
Using an actual HTC AC charger (old one, from my TouchPro2 days, but rated for 5V 1A) both devices indicate they're getting somewhere around 900ma, much more like I'd expect.
So is this charger just crap? Or is that normal for a car 1A charger? I'm debating getting something else - ideally one of the chargers that claims to have both a 2.1A port and a 1A port, since I want to run both the flyer and evo (for tethering) in the car. Got suggestions on any that are good? Small would be best since a big charger blocks my cupholder
You'll be best off getting a small 12 /120 inverter. The magic is in the HTC charging cord connector not the power supply. Just use the inverter with the HTC wall wart. It produces 9v at 1.2 A. Since the Flyer has two batteries, it really needs more than 5v
That just seems like such a ridiculous way to do it - 12V in car, converted to 120v AC, then BACK to DC at 9V...
I tried another USB adapter that I had lying around, a really really cheapo one that claimed to be 1A. Well, my phone shows it's getting around 900ma from it. So not too bad, and certainly better than the name brand that I modified. So looks like I'm back to the hunt... either a dual-usb 1A each adapter, or better yet, a 2.1A/1A dual adapter that can actually output that much.
But still, even the modded one isn't too bad. at only 50ma net drain, that flyer battery would last longer in the car than I will
DigitalMD said:
You'll be best off getting a small 12 /120 inverter. The magic is in the HTC charging cord connector not the power supply. Just use the inverter with the HTC wall wart. It produces 9v at 1.2 A. Since the Flyer has two batteries, it really needs more than 5v
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think there is easier way. Griffin 2A car charger has chip inside, it can give up to 20 or 30V and 3A! Voltage is regulated by changing only one resistor. I have datasheet somewhwere, but you can google. Datasheet will explain what resistor and wat value is needed for 9V.
So changing resistor should be enough, but I am not shure 100% because I do not know if Flyers original charger uses specific pins or the same usb pins for charging
Sent from my HTC Flyer P510e using Tapatalk
Well, you don't really want to change voltage I don't think. I know the official charger does 9V over the same pins as the usual microUSB 5 pins, but I don't know for sure if the flyer has to do anything special to know 9V is coming. Or if the pinout is different.
So for now, I'm planning to just get an ipad-type 2A 5V charger, mod it (since the ipad doesn't use standard methods of knowing the charger can do more than 500ma), and see how that works.
I'm not terribly concerned about CHARGING the flyer in teh car. I just don't want to lose too much battery while on a long drive. So even a true 1A charger would be fine - that's more than the flyer draws. I just thikn the charger I got isn't actually doing what it says.
timropp said:
Well, you don't really want to change voltage I don't think. I know the official charger does 9V over the same pins as the usual microUSB 5 pins, but I don't know for sure if the flyer has to do anything special to know 9V is coming. Or if the pinout is different.
So for now, I'm planning to just get an ipad-type 2A 5V charger, mod it (since the ipad doesn't use standard methods of knowing the charger can do more than 500ma), and see how that works.
I'm not terribly concerned about CHARGING the flyer in teh car. I just don't want to lose too much battery while on a long drive. So even a true 1A charger would be fine - that's more than the flyer draws. I just thikn the charger I got isn't actually doing what it says.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are not right. It gives up to 3A, but voltage is too low for Flyer. To charge properly Flyer needs 9V voltage and up to 1.2A. If voltage will be only 5v - you never will never get 1A with flyer. Tested various 1 or 2A chargers (even genuine Iphone) with data pins connected. And i also said that griffin circuitry is capable of giving more than 1A. HTC HD2, draws its maximum ~800mA from griffin, so you theory would say that Flyer can draw more than 500mA too but it doesn't so it is due to voltage or special pins.
Sent from my HTC Flyer P510e using Tapatalk
The flyer does not NEED 9V - it's just faster. Heck, the thing came w/ a USB cable which is only 5V and it will charge, just not as fast.
I've got some REALLY cheap USB car chargers (look like this http://www.aliexpress.com/product-f...obile-Cell-Phone-White-Color-wholesalers.html and I got them for like a buck a piece). Sticker says it'll do 1A. On both my Evo and my Flyer, I get around 900-950ma out of it. So yes, the flyer can indeed draw 1A from a charger that can do it.
I think the charger I've got (the one in the original post) is just crappy. I ordered another model (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056VNVV8) which claims to have a 2A port and a 1A port. I'll try it out, don't expect it to actually do that stock since the ipad is the main device that uses 2A and uses proprietary methods to signal that. Then I'll open it up and short the data pins and see what I get. HOPEFULLY I can pull enough juice from it to keep both the flyer and evo happy.
timropp said:
The flyer does not NEED 9V - it's just faster. Heck, the thing came w/ a USB cable which is only 5V and it will charge, just not as fast.
I've got some REALLY cheap USB car chargers (look like this http://www.aliexpress.com/product-f...obile-Cell-Phone-White-Color-wholesalers.html and I got them for like a buck a piece). Sticker says it'll do 1A. On both my Evo and my Flyer, I get around 900-950ma out of it. So yes, the flyer can indeed draw 1A from a charger that can do it.
I think the charger I've got (the one in the original post) is just crappy. I ordered another model (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056VNVV8) which claims to have a 2A port and a 1A port. I'll try it out, don't expect it to actually do that stock since the ipad is the main device that uses 2A and uses proprietary methods to signal that. Then I'll open it up and short the data pins and see what I get. HOPEFULLY I can pull enough juice from it to keep both the flyer and evo happy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, Flyer does not need 9v, but only when charged from usb port. In USB case Flyer identifies power source as usb and do not try to get more than than 500mA. By shortening data pins we make Flyer identify power source as AC, so it thinks that it draws power from charger ( it expects 9V 1.62A) so charging from 5V 2A doesn't work as from 9V source. I have already tried Samsung 2A charger, Griffin car charger 2A, iPhone 1A charger.... (With data pins shortened) Flyer identifies them as AC source but current do not rise more than 500mA and only when power/screen off. When on - I think charging do not work because Battery Monitor Pro shows opposite current flow (discharge).
So:
a) Your charger is not crappy...
b) 5v*2A=10W is less than 9V*1.62A=14.58W
Sent from my HTC Flyer P510e using Tapatalk
Not sure why you had no luck w/ all those chargers. I've used both the flyer and my evo 4g to test, monitored w/ elixir (showing the ma flow either direction, use or charging), and several adapters both AC and car.
My flyer absolutely could draw 900ma or more out of the cheapo car charger at 5V. That's plenty to keep it charged and even add some charge slowly (about 300ma gain) while using GPS, full bright screen, and tethered over wifi to my phone.
The problem is that is a single USB charger, and my car only has 1 cig lighter port. So I'm looking for a dual-USB charger. I'll post the results of the new one that's on the way.
i used a Griffin USB charger in my car for a while, and it didn't do a bad job. I think it was rated as 2.1 amps. I had to try several USB-to-microUSB cords to find one that was wired for charging, and not just data transfer/trickle charge.
Finally, I gave in and bought the proprietary HTC car-charger from Sprint, and it works great! If I turn on everything I can (mobile data, wifi, gps, screen brightness, nav app, etc) it will keep my EVO View running great and charge the tablet in fairly short order.
Ok, update. Got my Bracketron adapter last night. Looks like this:
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First I tried my HTC Evo 4G phone. From the 1A port, it pulled a great 1A charge. From the 2.1A, it shows usb charging and only 500ma. That was as I expected, since the only device most people know of that uses 2A is ipad and it uses stupid proprietary methods to detect the charger's abilities.
Next I hooked the flyer up. No surprise, it showed the same result from the 2A port. But from the 1A, it said AC charge, but only drew 500ma. So that's the same thing linuxis saw, that the flyer would only pull half amp. Not sure how/why it gets 900 from my other charger...
I also opened up this charger. Looks well built inside. However, I can't solder the data pins on the 2A jack cause there's not room. A long, thin soldering iron could do it, but I've only got a normal tip. So I think I'll try hacking up a usb cable and try that, see if I can pull more juice from this thing. Otherwise, I'll stick to my ultra-cheapo adapter and get a 2 port 12v adapter (you know, turns one lighter socket into 2) to run two chargers that way.
Hate to see you torture yourself over this.
$10,
120v @ 100w + 5v @ 500 ma. from one 12v socket
Attached wall wart and USB cable
Charge and power Flyer /View + cell phone and add in a laptop if you want.
Problem solved.
Ah, this isn't torture. this is playing around with something. Yep, there's a simple solution, but it's ugly and crude and wouldn't fit my car very well (stupid car has the socket right under the cupholders, so using that would mean I couldn't open the cupholders at all, so I'd need a 12v extension to put the inverter on the floor).
So I'm playing around with finding a better solution... and sharing my findings so others can learn from my lessons
OK, that's good. I thought you were in imminent need of a solution.
Onward and upward.
Im sorry but when will the auto industry wakeup and provide a better accessory power port? Do we really need that clumsy, pita, half ass, eyesore in our cars? How about a multi pin port where the cable jumps pins to get 12, 9, 5 and 3 volts.? How about auto sensing like some generic laptop chargers? Come on Europe, you did ok with mico usb ports on phones can you go after the auto industry now. I would gladly pay $100 to have a multivoltage port in the dash and the trunk/back. I know some cars had an inverter option built in as an option.
I wonder if there is a dev could come to the rescue. I remember some rom developers making their roms charge faster and also making them charge to 100%.
Anyone know where I can find the special plug that HTC used for the charger? I already have a few 9volt chargers collecting dust, would be nice to make one work for the cost of a plug?
Keep dreaming the auto makers are never going to provide anything like that. That's why smart phone makers standardize to 5v 500ma. Except for those that don't, like HTC...LOL
Tablets are more power hungry. HTC choose to use 2 x 3.6v batteries rather than on big ass battery, probably because they had them laying around and because it's cheaper and easier to run batteries in series and do 9v @ 1.2A than to do 5v at 2A . Therefore the need for 9v for fast charging.
As far as the HTC connector its only available from HTC and I don't think they sell them to anyone.
timropp said:
Ok, update. Got my Bracketron adapter last night. Looks like this:
...................
Next I hooked the flyer up. No surprise, it showed the same result from the 2A port. But from the 1A, it said AC charge, but only drew 500ma. So that's the same thing linuxis saw, that the flyer would only pull half amp. Not sure how/why it gets 900 from my other charger...
I also opened up this charger. Looks well built inside. However, I can't solder the data pins on the 2A jack cause there's not room. A long, thin soldering iron could do it, but I've only got a normal tip. So I think I'll try hacking up a usb cable and try that, see if I can pull more juice from this thing. Otherwise, I'll stick to my ultra-cheapo adapter and get a 2 port 12v adapter (you know, turns one lighter socket into 2) to run two chargers that way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If Flyer said that it see AC - cable hacking will not help.
Sent from my HTC Flyer P510e using Tapatalk
DigitalMD said:
Keep dreaming the auto makers are never going to provide anything like that. That's why smart phone makers standardize to 5v 500ma. Except for those that don't, like HTC...LOL
Tablets are more power hungry. HTC choose to use 2 x 3.6v batteries rather than on big ass battery, probably because they had them laying around and because it's cheaper and easier to run batteries in series and do 9v @ 1.2A than to do 5v at 2A . Therefore the need for 9v for fast charging.
As far as the HTC connector its only available from HTC and I don't think they sell them to anyone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can buy it. I saw it somewhere on internet.
Sent from my HTC Flyer P510e using Tapatalk
Ok, is there anything in software that affects charging? There's gotta be something at some level, since for example it won't charge while going thru some of the rooting/flashing stuff.
I ask because I retried my cheapo charger and now get just 500ma from it even though it's recognized as AC charger. I KNOW that a week ago it was giving me 800-900ma. But I've also flashed my flyer a dozen times in between, and I have no idea what I was running when I did that earlier test.
timropp said:
However, monitoring the current via Elixir says it's not getting near 1A. For example, the flyer was showing somewhere between -500ma and -700ma while unplugged (GPS on, wifi tethering). When I plugged it into this charger, it was showing around -50ma. So it's getting only around 600ma of juice, not 1000ma.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
where exactly do you find this in elixir?
I've seen a little chatter on the New Trent battery packs, but haven't seen this issue, so I wanted to see if I can figure out what's up.
I've had the IMP500 (5000mAh) for 3 or 4 months and really like it in general. Well, the little micro USB adapter has a little too much play and after 30 or so plug ins and outs it has a hard time maintaining a connection, to the point where it's almost unusable.
When I use the included wire, it shows up as AC charging. But, if I use a 'real' USB cable, it shows up as USB... which as we know can't provide a positive charge while using.
I know about the whole shorting of the 2/3 pins to force an AC charge, and I can see the mechanics that give me AC with the New Trent wire. But it would appear that I'm out of luck without getting a new one of those.
Anyone know of a USB wire that will force AC charging?
a-jive said:
Anyone know of a USB wire that will force AC charging?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, because any cable that shorts 2-3 isn't a USB cable, just as a charger that doesn't isn't a USB charger. They simply don't meet the specifications. If they're labeled "USB" anything, call the manufacturer and complain.
yes, a USB charging ONLY cable: available here:
http://www.amazon.com/Naztech-Micro...BCAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1331144352&sr=8-1
the reviews on there matchup to what we want... a usb format cable that is shorted for 'charging only' it won't work for data.
thatsricci said:
yes, a USB charging ONLY cable: available here:
http://www.amazon.com/Naztech-Micro...BCAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1331144352&sr=8-1
the reviews on there matchup to what we want... a usb format cable that is shorted for 'charging only' it won't work for data.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Amazing, thanks! I hunted amazon but didn't come up with that one. I'll have to try it out.
thatsricci said:
yes, a USB charging ONLY cable: available here:
http://www.amazon.com/Naztech-Micro...BCAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1331144352&sr=8-1
the reviews on there matchup to what we want... a usb format cable that is shorted for 'charging only' it won't work for data.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got this today and it works like a charm. No more soldering together pins in old i-pod chargers for me. Thanks again for the lead.
just bought two of each of these, should get early next week:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/370592797323?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170793148690?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
hope these cure my car charging woes lol
One can buy chargers from reputable companies which follow the USB charging specification for under $10 (car or AC). Why mess with non-standard chargers and cables which are no cheaper, from bit players?
Back when I got my Dinc, I bought like 10 of these, they were actually on special for like $2.99 ea.. they are now close to $5 (amazon prime free shipping).
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P05K9K
I bought the other day one of these the other day as I didn't have a Car charger...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002TOKTHO
< $3.50 with free shipping (not amazon prime).
I had a meeting the other day and I ended up connecting my Rezound using one of the cables above with the charger above and got AC charging indication on the phone when it was charging.
Works great.
I also have 4-5 of these around the house ... Not phone related
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037G2BMY
I use them when "family" comes over with their broken desktop computers and need me to "fix" them. Instead of stringing them to my office, I just plug one of these in and Wifi them so that I can work on them remote from my notebook. They are like $8 and work great.
Hello,
where to find this "Naztech Micro USB Charging Cable" for delivering in Belgium (europe). It's on amazon.com but delivery is only US and CANADA
Or do you know another cable wich deliver full power as with wall charger and original htc cable (about 850ma)
Thank you.
thatsricci said:
yes, a USB charging ONLY cable: available here:
http://www.amazon.com/Naztech-Micro...BCAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1331144352&sr=8-1
the reviews on there matchup to what we want... a usb format cable that is shorted for 'charging only' it won't work for data.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Also:
http://www.amazon.com/Charge-PureGe...1&sr=8-2&keywords=charge+only+micro+usb+cable
Yes but is there another shop for delivering in Europe?
Yannick1988 said:
Hello,
where to find this "Naztech Micro USB Charging Cable" for delivering in Belgium (europe). It's on amazon.com but delivery is only US and CANADA
Or do you know another cable wich deliver full power as with wall charger and original htc cable (about 850ma)
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The review on the following url from 24 Nov 2011 indicates it's charge only multi adapter cable:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/HEAD-MULTI-...PZB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343570862&sr=8-1
Luck
I don't know if the seller will ship internationally, but this is the one I bought and it works great.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=140750149487
It's worth hitting him up and seeing if he'll send it to you.
from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2
Ok thank you but I bought this one
Htp://usbfever.com/index_eproduct_view.php?products_id=1746
hope it will work fine.
Have you guys heard of Mediabridge? I got one of their ethernet cables, but now it's the only brand I buy when it matters. If anyone is still looking for a charging only cable, they have a long 6 ft. cable and a coiled cable - though they do have sync cables with the same stats too (and cheaper).
Here are the charging only cables from Amazon:
Oops, I guess I do too much lurking and not enough posting because it tells me I can't post outside links until I've had 10 submissions.
Simply do an Amazon search for Mediabridge USB Charging Cable and they should be the first 2 results that show. You can compare them with the data/sync cable because the data cable is a single color where the charging only has a dark cable and light grey terminals.
If you're interested in the data/sync cables you can find them under Mediabridge Hi-Speed USB 2.0
If you're using a wall charger or a car charger, either modify the cable (not ideal) or the charger itself (more ideal) to short the D-/D+ pins. When the phone detects the data pins shorted together it assumes it's connected to an AC charger. If you do this to a cable, make sure that only the micro-USB end is shorted and cut the wires so the USB A end isn't shorted.
Many PC USB ports are limited to 500mA draw anyway.
It looks like just shorting D+ to D- on a USB car charger is not always enough to get the note to charge at 1A. It seems like the voltage on D+/D- has to be in the right range also.
I needed more than 500mA charging current in the car for the Note and its big screen (with GPS going also). I knew that I needed to short the D+ and D- pins of the USB charger or cord to let me pull more than 500mA off a 1A+ car charger. I chose to modify the chargers so I could use any standard cable for charging. I did this to two chargers.
1. Belkin Dual USB Car Charger http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Dual-USB-Car-Charger/dp/B001ILBNGA
2. Griffin PowerJolt Dual Micro Universal Charger http://www.walmart.com/ip/Griffin-P...40656&sourceid=1500000000000003142050&veh=cse
I modified the Belkin first. I used an Ohm meter to confirm I was shorting D+ and D- on the “fast charge” port. Once I put it back together, I confirmed I had 5V across the outer pins and the inner pins were tied together. When I plugged my Note into it using a standard cable, I got a MTP message and the USB symbol appeared in the top left corner. It thought I was connecting to a computer. Removing the cable sent the Note into a media scan.
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So I took it apart and double checked. I noticed that the shorted data pins on the high current USB port were about 2.5V and the low current USB port data pins were about 2.0V. I also noticed that the 5V pins for both ports were connected together on the PCB (meaning they are fed off the same 5V regulator). I then shorted the data pins together on the low current port and it worked with that port! The Current Widget showed about 1A and no MTP message. This pointed to the data pins needing a specific voltage (or range of voltage) to make the note charge at 1A (2.5V on the data pins didn't work, but 2V did).
Next I moved onto the Griffin PowerJolt dual charger. This is my favorite car charger as it is very low profile. I did the mod to one of the ports and got the same MTP message (along with only 500mA charging). I noticed the data pins were at 2.5V and that two resistors making up a voltage divider for the data pins were right there. I changed the divider ratio (adding a 50K Ohm resistor in parallel with the resistor that went to ground). I re-measured and saw 1.94V on the data pins (very close to the 2V on the working Belkin port). I plugged her in and sure enough it worked (AC charging and about 1A).
Depending on your charger, it seems as though simply shorting D+ to D- may not be enough to get full current. The data pins have to have the correct voltage on them. Around 2V works although it may be a wide range of voltages (maybe 0V up to 2V?).
Later I went back and modified the high current Belkin port so its data pins were about 2V. That port then worked well too.
Check out this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LZt4pW97P8
mtucker said:
It looks like just shorting D+ to D- on a USB car charger is not always enough to get the note to charge at 1A. It seems like the voltage on D+/D- has to be in the right range also.
I needed more than 500mA charging current in the car for the Note and its big screen (with GPS going also). I knew that I needed to short the D+ and D- pins of the USB charger or cord to let me pull more than 500mA off a 1A+ car charger. I chose to modify the chargers so I could use any standard cable for charging. I did this to two chargers.
1. Belkin Dual USB Car Charger http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Dual-USB-Car-Charger/dp/B001ILBNGA
2. Griffin PowerJolt Dual Micro Universal Charger http://www.walmart.com/ip/Griffin-P...40656&sourceid=1500000000000003142050&veh=cse
I modified the Belkin first. I used an Ohm meter to confirm I was shorting D+ and D- on the “fast charge” port. Once I put it back together, I confirmed I had 5V across the outer pins and the inner pins were tied together. When I plugged my Note into it using a standard cable, I got a MTP message and the USB symbol appeared in the top left corner. It thought I was connecting to a computer. Removing the cable sent the Note into a media scan.
So I took it apart and double checked. I noticed that the shorted data pins on the high current USB port were about 2.5V and the low current USB port data pins were about 2.0V. I also noticed that the 5V pins for both ports were connected together on the PCB (meaning they are fed off the same 5V regulator). I then shorted the data pins together on the low current port and it worked with that port! The Current Widget showed about 1A and no MTP message. This pointed to the data pins needing a specific voltage (or range of voltage) to make the note charge at 1A (2.5V on the data pins didn't work, but 2V did).
Next I moved onto the Griffin PowerJolt dual charger. This is my favorite car charger as it is very low profile. I did the mod to one of the ports and got the same MTP message (along with only 500mA charging). I noticed the data pins were at 2.5V and that two resistors making up a voltage divider for the data pins were right there. I changed the divider ratio (adding a 50K Ohm resistor in parallel with the resistor that went to ground). I re-measured and saw 1.94V on the data pins (very close to the 2V on the working Belkin port). I plugged her in and sure enough it worked (AC charging and about 1A).
Depending on your charger, it seems as though simply shorting D+ to D- may not be enough to get full current. The data pins have to have the correct voltage on them. Around 2V works although it may be a wide range of voltages (maybe 0V up to 2V?).
Later I went back and modified the high current Belkin port so its data pins were about 2V. That port then worked well too.
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This was informative, my phone discharges as well, when I have gps nav on, along with music and bluetooth connected to my car, yes a lot of things, but I want to use only one device for everything anyway, what widget are you using to check the amperage?
i_max2k2 said:
This was informative, my phone discharges as well, when I have gps nav on, along with music and bluetooth connected to my car, yes a lot of things, but I want to use only one device for everything anyway, what widget are you using to check the amperage?
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I'm using Current Widget https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.manor.currentwidget&feature=search_result For Samsung phones, it will display the current *10 until you dig into the menu and use the divide option to tell it to divide by 10.
My GSII would just barely charge with 500mA (screen and GPS on) so I wasn't surprised that the Note can't keep up with 500mA.
Shorting the green and white wires (towards the phone) bumped my ma's from mid 4k to about 8-9k. I think the voltage state of the battery affects the charging rate as well. Under 70% I'm in the 9K ma range but above 90% I get around 7K ma's.
Phoneguy589 said:
Shorting the green and white wires (towards the phone) bumped my ma's from mid 4k to about 8-9k. I think the voltage state of the battery affects the charging rate as well. Under 70% I'm in the 9K ma range but above 90% I get around 7K ma's.
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This makes sense as a lithium ion charging circuit should charge quickly to 80 percent and trickle thereafter. Remember that the chargers ability to supply a large amount of current does not mean the phone will consume it; the charging circuit will only draw what it was designed to draw.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA
Right. The charging process goes from constant current mode to constant voltage mode (voltage stops near 4.2V and the current drops to keep the voltage the same) somewhere around 80-90% of full charge.
Nice discussion here. I followed the Youtube link in the second discussion and created a short USB cable with the short. Works perfectly.
I bought the Griffin PowerJolt because of its size as well, however, I think mine is a fake one because the internals look very flimsy and cheapy put together.
Anyways, I can't return it since I already modded it...
I somehow managed it to pull .7 amps using a modded data cable (only if I let the spring contact that touches the inside perimeter of the lighter port touch the metal housing of the USB socket, .5 amps if not touching) but that's all I can do. Voltage is the same between the wall stock wall charger vs car charger @ ~4V.
Is there anything else I can do?
Isn't the charger that came with the Samsung official Galaxy Note Car Dock gives out 1A already?
I saw the Car charger output is 1A and the pin should be shorted already, since there is no "sync" capability.
hyukki said:
I bought the Griffin PowerJolt because of its size as well, however, I think mine is a fake one because the internals look very flimsy and cheapy put together............
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Some people on Amazon thought they were getting fakes because the Griffin logo looked very light and the packaging was totally generic. Here is a link to a picture someone posted on Amazon showing the insides of the Powerjolt (a authentic version). This is how mine looked too.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/permalink/moAZAR6I9DW65J/B0042B9U8Q/ref=cm_ciu_images_pl_link
mtucker said:
Some people on Amazon thought they were getting fakes because the Griffin logo looked very light and the packaging was totally generic. Here is a link to a picture someone posted on Amazon showing the insides of the Powerjolt (a authentic version). This is how mine looked too.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/permalink/moAZAR6I9DW65J/B0042B9U8Q/ref=cm_ciu_images_pl_link
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Well, the inductor in mine is very flimsy and does not have the black cover around it. It literally is being held in place by the two leads of the wire coiled around the ring. I'll probably end up ordering a different plug. Or invest 11 dollars for the one that comes with the iPod cable. Although I'm not really complaining with .7 amps, since at least it doesn't let the battery drain as fast.
Phoneguy589 said:
Shorting the green and white wires (towards the phone) bumped my ma's from mid 4k to about 8-9k. I think the voltage state of the battery affects the charging rate as well. Under 70% I'm in the 9K ma range but above 90% I get around 7K ma's.
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Do you mean 4000 to 9000 ma or 4A - 10A over usb? (this seems a little high for usb most chargers are 500 ma (0.5A) to 2A)
I think it is probably more like 400-1000ma (0.4 to 1A) [which sounds more reasonable for usb]