Hi guys,
I've been trying to use the navigation on my SGS2 (particularly iGo). The problem is that, even the phone is connected to the lighter socket, and indicates that it's charging, the battery level still drops. I tried two separate USB power adapters, one rated at 1000mAh and another rated at 2000mAh, same results. The phone was in front of the air vents in the car, so no question of overheating.
Any ideas what may be happening?
Do you know what are the power requirements when nav/data are running?
Thank you
I noticed the same, back on my former galaxy I7500, and still on my sg2.
Navigation works great, but use simultaneously 3D display, gps and wifi for localisation, sensors for direction and position intropolation (I guess), plus 3g.
It seems that heavy use comsume more juice than the typical 500ma you get out of a car plug.
On SG2, it drain slower than on the I7500, despite the larger screen. I guess the hardware is more energy efficient.
If it's a real issue, you can try to :
reduce screen brigthness
switch from 3g to edge only (fast enought for navigation)
Disable bluetooth (unless you use blutooth to get navigation from car speakers).
Use a 1000ma usb car plug
The cigarette plug on my car is supposed to give out some 10Amps, so there is juice available. In any case, I'll try different adapter/cable/car combinations, see if all behave the same or it's just a case of incompatibility.
I am using bluetooth to connect to the car audio system, so that has to stay. I suppose I can disable data connection as the maps are on SD, but not sure if it would make a difference. Anyway, is there an official (or unofficial) spec about the max current drawn by the device?
Read in some other thread that charging is limited to 700 mA so don't think it will matter.
So no workaround?
Can you please point me to that thread?
No way to fix this yet. Charging is limited to 650 mA in the driver, and the phone pulls more than that doubt tasks like navigation or gaming. Your best shot is use min screen brightness to bring current draw down.
It seems part of the problem was the USB cable, it was a 3rd party one. I tried now with the original cable, and the battery level remained constant, which is a definite improvement
Will try with the second charger (the 2000mAh one) and see what gives.
Related
Hello,
I went through two car chargers and found out that they are not really charging, or if they are its very super slow. I also found the same thing happens when active sync is on. I know on kaiser there is an option that enables/disables charging, but no option exists on AP3.0. So, is there a trick to this or what ?
Thanks.
I have found that you need a specific charger for the Advantage to get anything above trickle charge. On an Advantage, trickle charge is not enough to charge the device whilst it is in use i.e. it will still discharge even if a little more slowly. I initially used an HP charger from another device with the Advantage in my car and this is exactly what happened. I got a proper one for the Advantage and the device charges without difficulty even with all the radios, GPS, etc. on. This proper charger was not HTC badged but was designed for the Advantage. I am sure it is something to do with clever circuitry in the device or the charger that switches charging to trickle if it doesn't recognise the device it is connected to.
Hope this helps.
Tech Blog: www.alastairdelaney.com
What charger did you get? Any source is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
marek101 said:
What charger did you get? Any source is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe you need to make sure the charger puts out 1.5 Amps. Somebody know if this is correct? My Dell Axim needed that much to charge and run GPS.
Brad
Hi there,
I bought the charger in the following link:
http://www.easydevices.co.uk/pp/HTC_Accessories/HTC_Advantage/HTC_ADVANTAGE_CAR_CHARGER.html
Cheap, and worked perfectly. I also bought the car mount from here.
no wonder, why my phone seems never to charger
I just use an inverter and the normal adapter with mine Cost me £20 a couple of years ago, but means I can charge my ameo, laptop, phone, or any other device I choose using standard charger. Saved me loads in the long run
the designed charger for the Ameo is 1 amp, a usb car, charger will only be about 0.5 amp, this is probably why its slower. I can charge my niki no problem, but my ipaq and ameo take all day in the car. I think inverters are on special at maplin at the moment. probably a cheaper way for me to charge everything in the car.
I had this problem and bought the following charger, it works a treat !
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-AMP-IN-CAR-...photoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262
sometimes if your charger is aftermarket it dosen't work. happens with me with mp3 playerz too
guys the charger has to be 2 amp and better for u to maintain a charge while running everything (gps, bluetooth, wifi) especially if u get hsdpa signal. Oh this is my first post ever from the Advantage.
tootallk2000 said:
guys the charger has to be 2 amp and better for u to maintain a charge while running everything (gps, bluetooth, wifi) especially if u get hsdpa signal. Oh this is my first post ever from the Advantage.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually disagree, I can do all that while being plugged into a regular electric outlet and the output rating for that charger is 5V 1Amp. So a 1A Car charger will do just fine.
marek101 said:
I actually disagree, I can do all that while being plugged into a regular electric outlet and the output rating for that charger is 5V 1Amp. So a 1A Car charger will do just fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi
I Disagree, Because i have bought two car charger with 1Amp both did not worked. Then i bought a 2Amp car charger it worked perfectly.
Therefore i think it will need 2Amp car charger to charge and give power to GPS, Bluetooth, etc. 1Amp may charge your Athena but it need to switched off(put into standby)
Thanks
This question has been discussed before in this forum. Look at this thread.
Put special attention to post #5. It seems that HTC uses one pin of the mini-usb connector (it has 5 pins while standar usb connector need only 4) to differentiate between charger and sync.
If the charger does not have this pin configured correctly , the athena thinks that it is a connection form a PC and does not start the fast charging.
Other option is to use a special adaptor like the one from PPC Tech (PPC Techs HTC Advantage Lil Sync DUO Mini-5 USB Adapter avaliable on expansys), that allows you to enable fast charging with any charger (minimun 1A). I have used it successfully with several car chargers.
Reminds me of this discussion http://www.modaco.com/content/HTC-Typhoon-Variants-Typhoon-MoDaCo-com/115090/Car-Charger/
Still doesn't charge enough even w/ HTC charger
Yes. The pin configuration is different for the Athena. Yes, it needs higher amperage to charge. However, even when taking all these things into account, there's still a problem.
I bought the HTC car charger precisely to avoid the problem of undercharging / pin misconfiguration. Yet, I still have problems. Whenever I drive long distances (4 hrs +, vacation, etc.), I generally have the gps running along with bluetooth for my ear piece (in case of phone calls), and I have an mp3 player going for tunes (running off the MD). Since it's generally a bright, sunny day, I also have the screen at full brightness (otherwise you can't see it at all.) Even with the HTC charger which is listed as the one designed for the Athena, my unit will die within 4 hours.
I realize that this is alot of juice, but it still annoys me that the charger can't keep up with the unit it was designed for. I imagine it wouldn't last that long if I had the gprs and/or wifi (not that I'd have wifi going while I drive anyway) running, too.
My question is: Do you think it's the screen or the MD which is sucking up all the juice? I've taken to letting the screen shut off (an option on many mp3 players), if I'm on the freeway and don't need the gps for a while. But to be honest, I haven't taken any really long trips to test this approach.
BTW, it's not a problem with the charger. I've got 2 of them, and the same thing happens with both.
pkchainsaw said:
Yes. The pin configuration is different for the Athena. Yes, it needs higher amperage to charge. However, even when taking all these things into account, there's still a problem.
I bought the HTC car charger precisely to avoid the problem of undercharging / pin misconfiguration. Yet, I still have problems. Whenever I drive long distances (4 hrs +, vacation, etc.), I generally have the gps running along with bluetooth for my ear piece (in case of phone calls), and I have an mp3 player going for tunes (running off the MD). Since it's generally a bright, sunny day, I also have the screen at full brightness (otherwise you can't see it at all.) Even with the HTC charger which is listed as the one designed for the Athena, my unit will die within 4 hours.
I realize that this is alot of juice, but it still annoys me that the charger can't keep up with the unit it was designed for. I imagine it wouldn't last that long if I had the gprs and/or wifi (not that I'd have wifi going while I drive anyway) running, too.
My question is: Do you think it's the screen or the MD which is sucking up all the juice? I've taken to letting the screen shut off (an option on many mp3 players), if I'm on the freeway and don't need the gps for a while. But to be honest, I haven't taken any really long trips to test this approach.
BTW, it's not a problem with the charger. I've got 2 of them, and the same thing happens with both.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have problem like yours. I always have my backlight adjusted to the brightest. I keep all my applications on MD (which means it's spinning most of the time). With GPS running and music playing, my device will give charged to the fullest and stay that way very very quickly. I use the standard HTC charger. Only thing is I don't use bluetooth, so I'm not sure how much this would influence it.
Don't know what the current is, but my Brodit Active mount charges my Athena quickly even with everything turned on- used mainly for Sat-Nav with screen on full bright/ no sleep during day.
Trickle charge from the PC USB takes forever!
NeilM said:
Don't know what the current is, but my Brodit Active mount charges my Athena quickly even with everything turned on- used mainly for Sat-Nav with screen on full bright/ no sleep during day.
Trickle charge from the PC USB takes forever!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same experience with the Brodit.
I’m using the supplied HTC car charger, for an hour journey,
with only backlight full and GPS it charged but very small increment.
when using my phone in the car, i have the phone stream bluetooth to the cars stereo for audio, and navigation, i used the headunits built in usb to charge the phone wilst doing this, and noticed that at the end of a 4 hour journey, the batter had drained from 98% to 23%. So i bought a samsung in car charger and spent hours installing it with now wires around the front (im very perticular about this) and im still on a negative charge. Im running cognition s2 v1.31, and using poweramp for audio (only one that seems to work with a2dp) and copilot/google maps for navigation. When i run these programs, if i hit task manager it says there only using around 14% cpu each, so why on earth would it be getting a negative charge?
How about if you try and use none or maybe just one function of phone whilst on charge cable and see how battery performs.
Next check I would is to use charger in another car and see if the problem is in the hole in the car where you put the charger.
rgray99c said:
When i run these programs, if i hit task manager it says there only using around 14% cpu each, so why on earth would it be getting a negative charge?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the display on all the time? That's usually what drains the most battery when combined with navigation.
This phone consumes too much power for running and charging in your case. Ordinary USB chargers use to provide no more than 500mA. It's not enough. You need much more. Just to try something more powerful - like iPhone 4 usb car charger. Probably it will solve your problem.
Well, ive gone and bought a charger rated at 1000ma, and it doesnt loose as much yet its still a negative charge, he screen is on consantly. After more heavy testing, using pwer amp only streaming audio was fine, it charged pretty quick, using google maps only, it charged, not as quick but it did, same with copilot, what annoys me is i came from an iphone 4, and was able to use tomtom as well as streaming bluetooth and it used o charge pretty quick, and never get nearly as warm, im so contemplating selling the sgs2 nd going back to iphone
Its already been documented. This phone pulls more power than the charger supplies. This is limited in the kernel so nothing you can do other than not use the phone that hard.
I spend a lot of time tethering and just using my phone with the charger on... But if I spend too much time on it the phone still dies... I look at my battery usage and even though it IS charging the graph is still going down... Any word?
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
Do you have it plugged into the wall or through the USB port?
The phone uses more mAh than the USB port is capable of providing if you are doing almost anything with the phone. The wall charger can have a hard time keeping up at times too.
Thaxx said:
I spend a lot of time tethering and just using my phone with the charger on... But if I spend too much time on it the phone still dies... I look at my battery usage and even though it IS charging the graph is still going down... Any word?
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same problem with my EVO and the issue seems to still exist on the EVO 3D. Essentially, as posted above, when plugged into a computer, the phone charges at a lower mA than it does when plugged into the wall. Tethering uses both the WiFi radio and the 3G/4G radio which consume more power than the charging is able to supply, hence you'll see the phone slowly die even though it is charging.
I haven't really seen a good long term solution for this. I know, in an attempt to mitigate power consumption, the CPU can be down clocked and ran at a lower speed (SetCPU common App used for this purpose and free on XDA), but not sure how significant the impact it will have on the power drain.
It really would be interesting to see some detailed stats on how much power each radio in the EVO 3D consumes when used alone and when used together.
Hope that helps!
Thanks both of you but I do charge it though the ac adapter... Its gotten to the point where I got the screen all the way down and only using 3g so it barely charges... I can't even use netflix that way
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
Thaxx said:
I spend a lot of time tethering and just using my phone with the charger on... But if I spend too much time on it the phone still dies... I look at my battery usage and even though it IS charging the graph is still going down... Any word?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you wifi or USB tethering?
Because wifi tethering will chew through battery like nobody's business. When tethering through wifi, you are operating both the 3G/4G radio as well as the wifi radio, and doing so pretty extensively. To boot, the 3G/4G reception where you are may not be ideal, so the radio has to try harder to maintain a signal.
I've had two other smartphones that I tethered daily with, and in both cases the battery would slowly drain even while plugged into the stock charger for the phone, so that by the end of my workday the battery would be around 30-50% despite being plugged in the whole time.
You may want to get a 3rd-party charger with a higher mA rating (something in the 1500mA range), which may help.
saltorio said:
Are you wifi or USB tethering?
Because wifi tethering will chew through battery like nobody's business. When tethering through wifi, you are operating both the 3G/4G radio as well as the wifi radio, and doing so pretty extensively. To boot, the 3G/4G reception where you are may not be ideal, so the radio has to try harder to maintain a signal.
I've had two other smartphones that I tethered daily with, and in both cases the battery would slowly drain even while plugged into the stock charger for the phone, so that by the end of my workday the battery would be around 30-50% despite being plugged in the whole time.
You may want to get a 3rd-party charger with a higher mA rating (something in the 1500mA range), which may help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The charging unit on the phone will down grade to one amp even if you get a 1500 ma charger. I have a iPad charger rated st 2.1 amps and still charges as fast as the stock charger. This is built in protection. I may be wrong..
life64x said:
The charging unit on the phone will down grade to one amp even if you get a 1500 ma charger. I have a iPad charger rated st 2.1 amps and still charges as fast as the stock charger. This is built in protection. I may be wrong..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah, that's good to know.
ive never had a phone that keep keep up with charging while wifi tethering. 4g phones are especially bad because of the wimax radio
Success100 said:
ive never had a phone that keep keep up with charging while wifi tethering. 4g phones are especially bad because of the wimax radio
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It kinda makes sense...if WiFi tethering and mobile network on easily will exceed the normal thereshold of over 1 amp...hence battery gets hot and chrarger is working overtime in trying to power the phone with every thing going on and charging the battery with ma usage exceeding regulated power. I never thought of it like that.to bad I cannot diet this way...
life64x said:
It kinda makes sense...if WiFi tethering and mobile network on easily will exceed the normal thereshold of over 1 amp...hence battery gets hot and chrarger is working overtime in trying to power the phone with every thing going on and charging the battery with ma usage exceeding regulated power. I never thought of it like that.to bad I cannot diet this way...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, it's a similar issue to what can happen is using Google Navigation:
GPS + constant data + screen + graphic rendering = drain
I picked up a 1A car charger just to help combat that, though apparently Google is working on this very issue themselves:
http://www.google.vu/support/forum/...n&fid=4cc9c887d2e027120004a7f6a622a7be&hltp=2
life64x said:
The charging unit on the phone will down grade to one amp even if you get a 1500 ma charger. I have a iPad charger rated st 2.1 amps and still charges as fast as the stock charger. This is built in protection. I may be wrong..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think that's right. I bought a rapid charger off Ebay and definitely notice the difference from the other Samsung charger I was using. Maybe the Samsung was only rated less than 1 amp, I don't know, but this charger will take my phone from under 50% to about 95% in the half hour drive to work.
I had the same problem as the OP. Running the GPS and Nav apps for the duration of the trip would leave my phone with less juice than when I started. After the new power cord it's a few percentage points higher at least.
I bought this one. For $3 bucks I figured I couldn't go wrong since it was a U.S. seller and had high feedback.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300518663951&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
ScottSNX said:
I don't think that's right. I bought a rapid charger off Ebay and definitely notice the difference from the other Samsung charger I was using. Maybe the Samsung was only rated less than 1 amp, I don't know, but this charger will take my phone from under 50% to about 95% in the half hour drive to work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Depends o the amperage of the charger being used. Many older chargers and stock chargers from all but the most recent phones are in the 500mA to 750mA range. The data on the charger should list it's output.
A lot of USB car chargers need to be modded to get the full power out of them. They basically tell the phone that it's connected to a computer and to only take ~500mA. When you mod them, the phone will pull ~1A.
There's a thread somewhere around that talks about it and shows how to do it, I think it's in the EVO 4G forum. Basically, you short out pin 2 and 3 so the phone knows it's not connected to a computer.
Night·Fire said:
A lot of USB car chargers need to be modded to get the full power out of them. They basically tell the phone that it's connected to a computer and to only take ~500mA. When you mod them, the phone will pull ~1A.
There's a thread somewhere around that talks about it and shows how to do it, I think it's in the EVO 4G forum. Basically, you short out pin 2 and 3 so the phone knows it's not connected to a computer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought that had to do with getting iPhone chargers to work on the every other device on Earth? Something about Apple speccing the ground differently or something?
I know that with the vast majority of older iPhone-intended chargers, they simply won't charge any other USB device I've tried (my old Xperia X10, my mom's Sony eReader, the EVO 3D, my friend's Samsung Galaxy). If they were simply being limited to 500mA, they'd still charge, just not particularly fast.
-edit-
OK, I think I found the issue (from Wikipedia - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus):
Non-standard devices
Some USB devices require more power than is permitted by the specifications for a single port. This is common for external hard and optical disc drives, and generally for devices with motors or lamps. Such devices can use an external power supply, which is allowed by the standard, or use a dual-input USB cable, one input of which is used for power and data transfer, the other solely for power, which makes the device a non-standard USB device. Some external hubs may, in practice, supply more power to USB devices than required by the specification but a standard-compliant device may not depend on this.
Some non-standard USB devices use the 5 V power supply without participating in a proper USB network which negotiates power draws with the host interface. These are usually referred to as USB decorations. The typical example is a USB-powered keyboard light; fans, mug coolers and heaters, battery chargers, miniature vacuum cleaners, and even miniature lava lamps are available. In most cases, these items contain no digital circuitry, and thus are not Standard compliant USB devices at all. This can theoretically cause problems with some computers, such as drawing too much current and damaging circuitry; prior to the Battery Charging Specification, the USB specification required that devices connect in a low-power mode (100 mA maximum) and communicate their current requirements to the host, which would then permit the device to switch into high-power mode.
In addition to limiting the total average power used by the device, the USB specification limits the inrush current (i.e., that used to charge decoupling and filter capacitors) when the device is first connected. Otherwise, connecting a device could cause problems with the host's internal power. Also, USB devices are required to automatically enter ultra low-power suspend mode when the USB host is suspended. Nevertheless, many USB host interfaces do not cut off the power supply to USB devices when they are suspended since resuming from the suspended state would become a lot more complicated if they did.
There are also devices at the host end that do not support negotiation, such as battery packs that can power USB-powered devices; some provide power, while others pass through the data lines to a host PC. USB power adapters convert utility power and/or another power source (e.g., a car's electrical system) to run attached devices. Some of these devices can supply up to 1 A of current. Without negotiation, the powered USB device is unable to inquire if it is allowed to draw 100 mA, 500 mA, or 1 A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's also a good discussion on it here: http://superuser.com/questions/7765...connected-with-my-pc-to-charge-my-droid-phone
The stock charger from Samsung was for 0.7Amps and it charges ok, but I find it slow.. about ~4 hours to fully change my SGS2 from with less than 10% left of battery life.
If I plug into the laptop, it takes like ~6 hours due to the slow trickle charge with 0.5Amps.
I don't know what the max pull is allowed on this phone, but I did find that when I charge with a 1Amps charger, I can get it from less than 10% to full in about ~3hours.
So, I tried a few such charges and have noticed some strangeness.. (all with the same test conditions, start charging with less than 10% and with the stock usb cable for the phone)
1) older Belink ac-usb 1Amps out put, it does seem to charge the phone good and faster finishing around ~3 hours ... but, when charging, the touch sensitivity of the screen is out of whack, any subtle movement, will cause the screen to jump around.. like in gallery, trying to select an individual pic is difficult as the screen jumps around; forget about using the browser and selecting links...not sure why..
2) HTC thunderbolt charger 1Amps output (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WM6SOU).. same issue here, charges faster, but makes the screen jump around
3) iPhone charger 1Amps output; this seems to work the best for me so far.. charges faster ~3hours and while charging the screen behaves normally, I am able to use gallery and browser fine...
4) iPad 2 charger 5.1 V and 2.1Amps: Still charges the phone ~3 hours, but same side effect...
Anyone else have the screen sensitivity issue and what chargers are you using?
I haven't seen any issue when I used a HP TouchPad Charger rated at 2.0A I think..
Max pull is 650 mA - this is set by the charger chip itself.
If the phone thinks you have a normal USB connection to PC instead of a dumb charger, it will be 400 mA.
Having a charger rated more than this won't hurt, but it won't help.
Monoprice "1A" car chargers are rated 300-400 mA at best - the ONLY monoprice product I've ever been unhappy with in my life.
In general, you want to make sure USB D+ and D- are shorted together by the charger - this guarantees that the phone sees the charger as "dumb" and goes to 650. Exception are media and car docks - whatever you connect to these will be assumed by the phone to be a high current "dumb charger".
All phone power usage (CPU, screen, etc.) counts against this current budget - e.g. if you have 200 mA of load, only 450 will be going into the battery.
Unlike the I9100, we don't appear to have any way to change these charging currents. Our phone, for whatever reason, has an additional chip for charge control (MAX8922) instead of using the charge control built into the main power management chip (MAX8997). This is disappointing, I was really hoping to bring over the "charginghacks" modifications from my Infuse kernel series.
Are all USB car chargers like this? Can I prevent this by getting a higher quality charger? When I'm not using maps or navigation (or turn off the screen for a while), then it'll slowly charge back up.
fungosaurus said:
Are all USB car chargers like this? Can I prevent this by getting a higher quality charger? When I'm not using maps or navigation (or turn off the screen for a while), then it'll slowly charge back up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
GPS is usually a big energy hog. How many amps is your car charger?
You should be able to get away with a higher amperage charger, but the trade off may be reduced battery life.
fungosaurus said:
Are all USB car chargers like this? Can I prevent this by getting a higher quality charger? When I'm not using maps or navigation (or turn off the screen for a while), then it'll slowly charge back up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How fast does it discharge? I just went on an out of state trip last week and had gps on with the charger plugged in for several hours at a time. I didn't pay attention to the actual charge numbers, but it either discharges very gradually or charges very gradually. I could probably run it all day with the charger and gps without a problem. I don't recall the amp output of my car charger, but it is one of the cheap foreign models.
fungosaurus said:
Are all USB car chargers like this? Can I prevent this by getting a higher quality charger? When I'm not using maps or navigation (or turn off the screen for a while), then it'll slowly charge back up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Reflash your ROM, dude. I had that problem on one of my initial GB ROM's where I had bad drain using GPS while charging in my car. I redownloaded and wiped everything and reflashed the ROM and everything was good.
Sent from my SGH-I777 using XDA
If you are running a custom ROM, you can use SetCPU (or any other CPU clock control app that allows profiles) to set max of 800MHz when plugged in. This should at least get you to even charge/discharge levels when plugged in and running GPS while driving. Probably will depend on your screen brightness.
I don't run GPS long term very often right now, but I was for a while and FWIW, I was able to stream pandora, run google maps with screen on, not have any lag, and get a slow charge from my car charger by limiting clock speed to 800MHz.
Your other option (and what I usually do) is turn off the screen during longer sections of GPS nav with no turns (like sections of highway). You'll still get audible notifications for the next turn/maneuver/interchange/whatever, and you can turn the display on then if you need visual along with audio nav. The phone shouldn't have any problem charging and running GPS with the screen off...
fungosaurus said:
Are all USB car chargers like this? Can I prevent this by getting a higher quality charger? When I'm not using maps or navigation (or turn off the screen for a while), then it'll slowly charge back up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not all USB car chargers are alike. You need two things:
1. The car charger outputs higher current than 500ma. You need at least 700ma.
2. The charger is wired correctly to be recognized by phone as AC charger instead of PC USB port so that the phone will actually draw more than 500ma for charging. You can go to phone's status page to read what charge mode it is using.
Most iDevice chargers will not meet #2.
I have a stock Samsung car charger and it charges my phone while using Google Nav.
Thanks for the tips guys.
My phone discharges at around 1% every 20 minutes or so. I've been doing things like turning the screen off during periods of downtime to help with this (actually charges when I do this).
I'm using cheapy car adapter actually that has two usb ports and 2 cigarette ports in it and I use that with a samsung branded usb cable.
Hm yeah I'll try and see if limiting the CPU will help and if it does perhaps I'll just do that from now on.
foxbat121 said:
2. The charger is wired correctly to be recognized by phone as AC charger instead of PC USB port so that the phone will actually draw more than 500ma for charging. You can go to phone's status page to read what charge mode it is using.
Most iDevice chargers will not meet #2.
I have a stock Samsung car charger and it charges my phone while using Google Nav.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you know of any other options that are wired correctly to draw more than 500ma? I think I did hear from somewhere that charging via usb is considerably slower than when using the wall charger. Do you know of any other options that would fulfill this requirement besides getting the stock Samsung car charger? Also I assume just finding a higher amp charger wouldn't work if the phone detects it as a usb charger instead of an AC charger?
fungosaurus said:
Do you know of any other options that are wired correctly to draw more than 500ma? I think I did hear from somewhere that charging via usb is considerably slower than when using the wall charger. Do you know of any other options that would fulfill this requirement besides getting the stock Samsung car charger? Also I assume just finding a higher amp charger wouldn't work if the phone detects it as a usb charger instead of an AC charger?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The correctly wired charger will typically short the USB data PINs. iPhone charges and most generic car chargers with UBS ports don't do that. Most HTC chargers and Motorola chargers will work on Samsung phones. You need take a look at your car charger to see how much amps it can supply (listed on the spec label). The PC usb can only output 500ma max per spec. It is not enough to charge the phone while keep the screen on, GPS running and 3G connection active. Your Samsung OEM wall charger is rated 700ma. So, you need a car charger that outputs at least 700ma.
You then need to verify from the phone that the particular charger is recorgnized by the phone as AC charger. Without that, the phone will only draw 500ma max.