Can anybody recommend an external power pack that works with the flyer/view? I was looking at this:
http://www.amazon.com/New-Trent-IMP...FO/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1324398340&sr=8-20
It will work with your Flyer, but it will charge much slower than the HTC power cord due to the USB connector. It may or may not keep your unit powered during normal use depending the way you use your device since the current supplied will be limited by the standard USB cable (~500ma) vs. the propriety HTC charging cable (1200 ma). I would test by powering your Flyer off a standard PC USB port and see, This should be roughly equal to what this device will supply.
Hmm, me thinks I just spotted hardware hack number 3.
globatron said:
Hmm, me thinks I just spotted hardware hack number 3.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol
This would be great please keep us updated
I picked up a Dreamgear iSound 8000 ma model on sale from expansys, seemed like a nice unit and was supposed to be able to push 2amp but it's no faster with the HTC cable than a regular generic microUSB cable hooked up to a usb port. The biggest drawback was the thing completely died on me before the first cycle, I mean DEAD, won't charge and the flashlight doesn't even work. So much for on sale, return shipping $$.
Neil
As I posted previously in this thread it does not matter what current the source supply can provide. The cable is the magic. Standard cable, standard charge rate of 500ma which is about 30% of what the HTC charger will give you
DigitalMD, reread his post. He clearly states that using both the HTC flyer cable, as well as a standard micro USB, gives him no difference. So while your conjecture that "it does not matter what current the source supply can provide. The cable is the magic." is interesting, it is not, in fact, entirely accurate. Perhaps the cable is "the magic" in certain environments, but clearly not all.
No conjecture at all, in this case it is a fact. The Flyer cable has extra pins and conductors that are not in a standard USB cable. This tells the Flyer when a power supply is connected vs. a standard USB and the Flyer then allows for higher charging rate. Whit out that special cable, it will only charge at 500ma or aprox. 30% of the HTC power supply rate.
Actually less than that even. The htc charger runs at ~9v > 1amp. A lithium battery can rapid charge in the range of 900mA to 1.2A depending on the cell(s) in the battery.
There are two cells or two packs (can't tell which on visual inspection) in the flyer battery running in parallel. A proper htc charger running at 1A provides approximately 10W of charging power, a 5 volt source running at 500mA provides 2.5W so the USB charging will be 4 times slower.
As discussed in another thread shorting USB D+ and D- will allow the flyer to recognise a wall charger and charge at 5v 900 mA, the same could be applied to a battery pack capable of providing 900 mA sustained. It wouldn't be as quick as the wall charger but it is probably enough to provide for charging while using the device, rather than just slowing discharge.
On the question of leads, using a htc cable or standard micro USB makes no difference by default. When connected to a USB socket the flyer/view cable behaves like any other USB cable, the wiring modification is done inside the charger for a wall charger, and would most safely be done the same way for a battery pack.
The flyer internally uses a threshold voltage plus the D+ and D- pins to determine if it is charging from 5v or the dedicated higher voltage wall charger.
yes your post is a more accurate explanation, thanks
Thanks for the input. I will give that one a try and take my View cable with me. I have long road trip coming up.
Related
I would like an additional charger as supplied in the box: from a wall socket 220v to mini usb. I see many usb charge cables but does anyone know where I can get a wall charger?
I heard usb charging is a lot slower and a usb-pc is not always available to plug into....
Not sure what country you are from...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5841022471&category=67832
It says its for the iPOD but it's got the same 5.5v output required - as with all USB devices.
Just do a search for USB Wall Chargers on the net and you'll get loads.
thanks Looks good. Does anyone know if charging this way actuallu IS faster then charging from pc?
Depends on the power output of a given charger...
USB charging is done at 5 volts and 0.5 amps (more or less - I seem to recall that the wall charger for the Blue Angel delivered about 0.7 amps and a bit below 6v, possibly 5.5).
Differences in speed of charging may be achieved if the supply current is higher (logically, since power = volts * amps) although I would be very surprised if the device did not have current limiting hardware in place, which may reduce or remove any advantage.
This means that it should be possible to charge the device faster (assuming it is not precisely self regulating) with a higher power output wall charger than a Windows managed PC. Most people selling USB wall chargers should specify the volts/amps of the charger and I would be suspicious of the seller if this were not the case! Personally, I'd recommend buying a (good - beware of cheapy!) retractable sync/charge cable and both wall and car power adapters with a USB socket as it allows you the most flexibility from the smallest physical amount of kit.
HTH
i bought two extra usb cables from amazon, i can't link to them since i don't have enough posts yet, but they're the "EMPIRE USB Data Cable for Verizon HTC ThunderBolt" from amazon
i intentionally looked for some that said for use with thunderbolt in case there was something different than just a micro-usb cable; however, it does not seem that these cables charge as well as the cable that ships. it takes several hours even when trying to charge with the original AC adapter using one of these cables vs the ~1.5-2 hours with the cable that comes with. When trying to use a computer or a car adapter it just holds the charge steady, if using navigation it actually drops battery while plugged in!
is there something i'm missing here? they should all be the same right? can anyone point me to some that actually work? (preferably from amazon since i have gift cards there)
I've had the same problem.
Make sure you are getting the correct voltage. I think my issues are that USB is a slower charge than outlets and the "extra" charger I had was for my bluetooth which had a lower voltage.
strobieone said:
I've had the same problem.
Make sure you are getting the correct voltage. I think my issues are that USB is a slower charge than outlets and the "extra" charger I had was for my bluetooth which had a lower voltage.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah, i understand that usb from the computer will be a lower voltage, which is what i thought the issue was at first. but then i tried using the original AC adapter with the replacement usb cable and it was slower than the original cable. i don't see why the cable would make a difference, but it definitely appears to.
i downloaded the current widget and can see that just swapping between the OEM cable and the aftermarket cable the charging current is quite different. ~+600ma with the OEM and -100ma to +300ma with the aftermarket (yes at times it was LOSING charge while plugged in using the aftermarket)
roppetty said:
yeah, i understand that usb from the computer will be a lower voltage, which is what i thought the issue was at first. but then i tried using the original AC adapter with the replacement usb cable and it was slower than the original cable. i don't see why the cable would make a difference, but it definitely appears to.
i downloaded the current widget and can see that just swapping between the OEM cable and the aftermarket cable the charging current is quite different. ~+600ma with the OEM and -100ma to +300ma with the aftermarket (yes at times it was LOSING charge while plugged in using the aftermarket)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should never use any other cable than the one provided with your Thunderbolt. On the site it may say that it "Works" with the Thunderbolt but that doesn't mean you are going to get the performance you need out of it. I have had that problem plenty of times with older cables and sadly it keeps me buying the slightly overpriced cables from Verizon so I know that I get what I need.
roppetty said:
yeah, i understand that usb from the computer will be a lower voltage, which is what i thought the issue was at first. but then i tried using the original AC adapter with the replacement usb cable and it was slower than the original cable. i don't see why the cable would make a difference, but it definitely appears to.
i downloaded the current widget and can see that just swapping between the OEM cable and the aftermarket cable the charging current is quite different. ~+600ma with the OEM and -100ma to +300ma with the aftermarket (yes at times it was LOSING charge while plugged in using the aftermarket)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It sounds like a defective cable. Check to see how it's charging (AC or USB). If it says USB when connected to the HTC charger, the cable is bad.
I use micro-USB cables I got from Monoprice, no problems.
mike.s said:
It sounds like a defective cable. Check to see how it's charging (AC or USB). If it says USB when connected to the HTC charger, the cable is bad.
I use micro-USB cables I got from Monoprice, no problems.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not defective, it's just not designed for charging. OP, always make sure it says it is a charger cable, not a data cable, when you buy one.
WeaselWeaz said:
It's not defective, it's just not designed for charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
BS. You have no clue what you're talking about. The TB follows the USB charging specification.
The thing about USB (Universal serial bus) cables is that they are UNIVERSAL. It doesn't matter where you get them from, what they say, or what they are branded. They have to meet certain specs (including materials and current capacity) in order to get the USB label.
If you're having a problem, I am 99% sure the cable is not the issue.
Try out monoprice.com. I've used them for years. You can get 3 wall chargers, 5 USB cables and 2 car chargers (all 1A) for like $25, shipped.
Edit: QFT
mike.s said:
BS. You have no clue what you're talking about. The TB follows the USB charging specification.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
necosino said:
The thing about USB (Universal serial bus) cables is that they are UNIVERSAL. It doesn't matter where you get them from, what they say, or what they are branded. They have to meet certain specs (including materials and current capacity) in order to get the USB label.
If you're having a problem, I am 99% sure the cable is not the issue.
Try out monoprice.com. I've used them for years. You can get 3 wall chargers, 5 USB cables and 2 car chargers (all 1A) for like $25, shipped.
Edit: QFT
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah, i'm with you, that's why i posed to see if there was something i'm missing and didn't know about. i'm a computer engineer so i know a cable is a cable is a cable, which is why i was like wtf when these didn't work the same.
thanks all, at least i know i didn't miss something and these should work the same.
ive had this problem on every phone. takes forever to charge through usb.
A USB cable is a USB cable is a USB cable is a USB cable.
If you are doing seat of your pants checks on charging, etc, they are never going to be accurate. CPU usage, network usage, etc while the phone is charging will affect how quickly it does charge. The stock charger provides 1000mA to charge the device, if you are using it, or another app is doing something (downloading data, using cpu, etc) it will not charge as quickly because power is being drained as it is being charged.
There is too much that would cause a slower charge state that you can't compensate for by a seat of the pants judgement on charging.
Its all about the mA.
No, thats not a storm. Its just my Thunderbolt layin down this post.
I have the same issue. I have tried four different usb cables with the oem charger and only two charge normally, the oem and one that I had with an old phone that I put a mini to micro adapter on to fit. The other two, one actually micro one mini to micro adapted, charge extremely slow. Yes a cable is a cable, but given I use the oem charger, the only differing things are the cables.
For what it's worth, I hate to burst your bubbles but not all USB cables are equal. And, in fact, not all phones are optimized for USB cables. Just because a cable looks like a USB cable and works as a USB cable doesn't mean that it is ONLY a USB cable. There are quite a few devices out there that can be charged (albeit slowly) with a USB cable but can be charged quickly with a cable that you only think is a USB cable. Take the Nook Color, for instance. The cable that it comes with looks like a USB cable on all accounts, but it's not. I forget which (both are techniques currently used) but either it has extra pins or has a data pin repurposed to provide additional power so it can charge faster. There are quite a few devices out there that are like this, and it seems like the number of these devices just keep growing and growing.
Now these "non-USB" devices still support USB standards, and can be charged via USB standard cables. However, they are optimized for non-USB standards and charge faster with these non-USB cables.
I'm honestly not sure if our Thunderbolts are such a device or not, and if the cables that they come with are such cables. They very well could be, and what the OP claims goes along with that theory. But honestly, I simply do not know.
EDIT:
Oh, and one more example. Go take a look at the custom "USB" cables that Team Blackhat had made that can power Motorola devices in CWM without a battery in the device. This is yet another example of where a USB cable isn't a USB cable.
Having the data pins connected to 5v sources is part of the charger itself; it has nothing to do with the cable.
Every USB cable has 4 pins: two 5v+, a gnd and a 5v- if the second + and - aren't connected to a source in the charger, you will only get a 0.5A charge, and it will go slow. If the charger DOES have them connected, you get the full 1A, and a much faster charge.
If the charger or cable is anything different then it is not USB. End of story. I know some phones have extra pins in the USB location for video out, for example, but those don't interfere with the standard USB pins.
Sent from my ThunderBolt using Tapatalk
necosino said:
Every USB cable has 4 pins: two 5v+, a gnd and a 5v-
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wrong, kinda. Check this out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nook_Color#USB_port
The Nook Color uses a modified connector with two depths. The first depth is compatible with micro-usb (5-conductor), while the second depth has 12 conductors. This change was made to increase the amount of power available to charge the larger battery of the Nook Color when using the included cable.
Because of this, the USB cable included with the Nook Color is physically incompatible with other devices employing standard micro-usb connectors. However, the Nook Color itself is physically compatible with standard micro-usb cords.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now I realize that calling this a "USB Cable" might be stretching the definition of "USB Cable" (hence the "wrong, kinda" comment) but more than likely, most people have no clue that one cable is different than another, so the end result is that, for all practical purposes, we DO have different types of USB cables.
necosino said:
Every USB cable has 4 pins: two 5v+, a gnd and a 5v- if the second + and - aren't connected to a source in the charger, you will only get a 0.5A charge, and it will go slow. If the charger DOES have them connected, you get the full 1A, and a much faster charge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Close, but not quite.
The pins are +5, Ground, +D and -D. All power is drawn through the +5 and Ground lines. The D lines are used for data transfer.
Per the USB specifications, a device can only draw 100 mA without enumerating (negotiating via USB, implies both ends have "intelligence"). If it can enumerate, it can negotiate for up to 500 mA (e.g. plugged into a PC which has a "driver" which recognizes the phone).
There are also specifications for DCPs (Dedicated Charging Ports). For these, the D+ and D- pins (the center two in a full sized USB connector) on the charger must be connected together with no more than 200 Ohms. These ports must provide at least 500 mA, but can provide more (micro-USB connectors are rated to 1.8 A). That's how the phone knows it can draw more than 100 mA from a "dumb" power adapter.
The TB follows the USB charging spec. Here are some things that can happen.
If it's plugged into a charger which doesn't follow the USB spec (D+ and D- not connected together, these are fairly common), it can only draw 100 mA. It doesn't matter if you bought a "2.5 Amp USB charger," if the charger doesn't follow the spec, a device which does isn't supposed to draw more than 100 mA. That's enough to charge it very slowly when the screen is off and it's idling. If the phone is doing anything, the battery will actually be discharging. This is a problem which seems to be common with many car chargers. A lot of device will ignore the 100 mA spec limit, and draw whatever they can, which is why they will charge from an improper adapter.
It's plugged into a PC with no driver - same thing.
It's plugged into a PC with a driver - it can negotiate and pull 500 mA. This is enough to charge while running in almost all cases (it might be on the edge if streaming video via 4G with GPS on, etc.) It will charge, but not as fast as it could.
For all of the above, a TB will show "USB" as the charging type.
It's plugged into a USB DCP. By spec, these must be able to deliver at least 500 mA. The AC adapter shipped with the TB is marked 1.0 A, and the phone won't draw more than 1.0 A (the most I've seen it use to charge the battery is ~800 mA). This will allows the fastest charging. With a DCP, the TB will show "AC" as the charging type.
Cables can have the same effect - all USB cables are supposed to be basically the same. But, some manufacturer's play loose with the spec. They may have "USB" cables with resistors or other changes inside which signal different things to a device. They may not have proper gauge wiring. It may just be a bad cable. Etc.
I've charged the TB with the stock AC charger using both the stock cable, and one I got from Monoprice. Works fine. I've also got a USB hub I converted to a charging station (follows the spec for USB dedicated charging ports), and that works fine with both the original and the Monoprice cables.
I have run into "flaky" cables, where they only work right if jiggled around a bit. Maybe they've been flexed too much, and have an intermittent connection. Maybe the contacts have gotten dirty. I don't worry about it, I just throw those away, you can get new ones from Monoprice for less than a buck.
Thanks Mike S (Also my initials, lol) That's what I get for posting after staying up a bit too late.
well i just ordered two micro usb cables from monoprice. we'll see if those fare any better.
the only thing i can guess is the power wires are a small gauge in the cables i bought from amazon. monoprice has two different kinds, some use 28awg for both data/power and then they have some that have 24awg for power and 28awg for data. i'm hoping that getting the bigger wire for the power will solve the issue.
also, i've been using juiceplotter and you can visibly see the slope of the charge change when switching just between these cables i bought vs the stock one when using the HTC charger so i'm pretty certain it's the cable.
roppetty said:
i've been using juiceplotter
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Battery Monitor Widget will do that, and more, including telling you whether it's charging AC or USB.
You can also check the charging type from Home Settings/About Phone/Battery/Battery Status.
Anybody tried to use standart HTC 5V wall charger for Flyer?
I have HD2 and its charger can safely give 1A. This type of chargers have USB data pins shortened. So all HTC devices conneced by standart USB cable identifies it as AC charger. I have tried to connect Flyer for a half a minute. Charger was identified as AC and as I remeber (not shure...and afraid to test once more) Flyer was sucking more than 1A (Battery monitor pro).
Flyer AC charger is 9V 1.62A, standart charger 5V 1A so question is do Flyer detects difference between Flyer charger and Standart 5V charger? Is it safe and possible to use standart 5V charger?
yes you can use standard USB, it will just charge slower
DigitalMD said:
yes you can use standard USB, it will just charge slower
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried or you just think so?
If flyer tries to get more than 1A, yes it will charge slower, but it will also burn charger.
I charge with reg usb all the time
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
I do it routinely. The device cannot draw more than the usb port will supply. PC ports supply only 0.5 amp. So they will only work if you turn the power off the Flyer. Wall chargers vary, some supply 1 amp. The original is 9v 1.6 amp were usb chargers typically are 5v so they will charge slower, much slower in some cases.
DigitalMD said:
I do it routinely. The device cannot draw more than the usb port will supply. PC ports supply only 0.5 amp. So they will only work if you turn the power off the Flyer. Wall chargers vary, some supply 1 amp. The original is 9v 1.6 amp were usb chargers typically are 5v so they will charge slower, much slower in some cases.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for last several anoying questions. Just want to be shure.
1. Do you use HTC charger or other vendor? In most cases only HTC 5V chargers are identified as 1A AC chargers. If not - device will not request more tha 500ma in order not to burn USB port (device thinks that it is port in that case)
2. Did you see that Flyer identified charger as AC source?
3. Did you charge when battery was less than 10%, what was charge current value on Flyer
Ok, now its getting annoying, did you actually read the information I put in the post you quoted? You just ask me the same questions I already answered.
The chargers all run on AC and produce DC . Flyer original output is 9 Vdc 1.6 amp .
DigitalMD said:
Ok, now its getting annoying, did you actually read the information I put in the post you quoted? You just ask me the same questions I already answered.
The chargers all run on AC and produce DC . Flyer original output is 9 Vdc 1.6 amp .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry but I think you did not gave the anwer. My english is not so good so maybe the question was not clear. I will try to explain once more, it is up to you to answer or just end this conversation/thread if you think i asked same stupid question once more.
1. Usually non HTC 5V chargers on HTC devices are identified as USB port and thats why devices draws no more than 500mA. It made so no to burn USB port.
2. All 5V HTC chargers on HTC devices are identified as AC 1A, so devices try to get as much as thay can (usually phones request less than 1A).
3. HTC Flyer with empty battery can request no more than 9*1.6A=14.4W. Flyer charger can handle that. Standart can handle only 5*1A=5W.
The question was: do 5V 1A HTC charger will not burn because Flyer identifies charger as AC and can request more than 1A. USB ports usually have protection from current. I do not know if 5V HTC chargers has protection or do Flyer identifies difference between 9v and 5v chargers and sets max current it can get from charger?
extra pins not present on a usb cable for mains charging. if using usb cables the the flyer is a usb device and has the same power restrictions as any other device...simple as that.
globatron said:
extra pins not present on a usb cable for mains charging. if using usb cables the the flyer is a usb device and has the same power restrictions as any other device...simple as that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are not right.
HTC 5V HTC mains charger comes with standart USB cable with no extra pins. Thats true. But mains charger has Data+and Data- shortened inside what makes HTC phones think that it is mains... with any USB cable. So power restrictions will not be as for USB....but as for AC. I have tested that in practice. I made belkin car charger and iphone charger able to be treated as mains chargers just by connecting pins (iphone charger data pins should be disconnected from schema before connecting. I have secret how to connect pins without opening unopenable iPhone charger....).
So the question is Flyer is able to identify mains 5V1A and 9V1.6A difference and do it apply different restrictions. Now for both shows it as AC source and I think sucks as much amps as it can up to 1.6A. So teoretically it should burn 5V charger if it will suck more than 1A.
What are you trying to do exactly?
---------- Post added at 06:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:28 PM ----------
by the way, it is standard, not standart.
I use the Flyer with a variety of USB wall chargers, car chargers and PC ports and have never experienced fire or explosion, only charging and slow charging. Are you trying to figure out how to use a different charger and still get a rapid charge rate?
Ok, I think I understand what the question really is but it is poorly phrased.
On my previous statement I agree with your answer in terms of how it is possible to read what I had said, in fact probably the logical way to read it on re-reading what I wrote, what I meant was electrically present, not that there were extra physical pins, whether electrically present is hi or lo doesn't matter.
If the question is can you rapid charge at 5V from a sufficiently powerful 5v then the answer is no, even if you pull D+ and D- to ground. Also it is highly likely that in the AC charger a resistor rather than direct connection is used to pull them to ground and these resistors could be electrically significant in the overall charging circuit.
The most probable reason for this is that there are two parallel charging circuits in the flyer ( almost certain of this ), and hence why 9v is used. The charge voltage for a 3.7v battery is 4.2 volts and somewhere around 500-750mA, the second charging circuit will have an isolation circuit to ensure that it is only engaged for charging purposes and does not directly feed the tablet that would be the purpose of the modified connections of d+ and d-, activate the secondary charging circuit.
Assuming you feed the device 5v from usb that would mean that the second circuit would receive a 0.8v supply, probably (hopefully) not enough to activate it so you just burn up the extra as heat in the circuit. In theory you would see a higher current draw by asking the flyer to run as if it was connected to an 9v supply when you connect a 5v supply. Best and most likely case scenario you're just being inefficient, medium case you burn out a component or protection (eg thermal fuse), worst case scenario you reverse the battery and it gets damaged or explodes.
globatron said:
Assuming you feed the device 5v from usb that would mean that the second circuit would receive a 0.8v supply, probably (hopefully) not enough to activate it so you just burn up the extra as heat in the circuit. In theory you would see a higher current draw by asking the flyer to run as if it was connected to an 9v supply when you connect a 5v supply. Best and most likely case scenario you're just being inefficient, medium case you burn out a component or protection (eg thermal fuse), worst case scenario you reverse the battery and it gets damaged or explodes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is what i meant! I was curious which one of scenarious will happen in practice.
From DigitalMD post above I can make a conclusion that in reality we will have 1st scenario (just inefficient).
Thank you guys.
I recommend you look at the following USB battery charging spec. A properly designed charging circuit will have current limiting and can recognize the power capabilities of the port vs. device vs. cable. This is why some charging circuits use a special cable vs. a standard USB data cable.
http://www.usb.org/developers/devclass_docs/Battery_Charging_V1_2.zip
Nice link, it's got some pretty decent information in it.
Honestly to answer your previous question I can't tell, I'm guessing nothing except some heat, but that doesn't mean that you couldn't thermally damage something ( eg the screen ).
globatron said:
Nice link, it's got some pretty decent information in it.
Honestly to answer your previous question I can't tell, I'm guessing nothing except some heat, but that doesn't mean that you couldn't thermally damage something ( eg the screen ).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that there is no chance to damage Flyer thermally But theoretically, if Flyer wll requests more than 1A charger can overheet and possibly damage the Flyer. But if Flyer can detect that charger as 5V1A and if it can request less than 1A, then it is safe. Also if charger can detect current higher than 1A and can limit it - that also should be safe to use it.
I will read pdf maybe there will be some good info.
I use a self powered usb hub as a daily charger for both my Flyer and Kindle. Works fine. With no "burning out". At work, I use a generic 5v 1a charger, no problems either except for charge speed...
The charge state shows USB instead of AC, so it appears there is some sort of voltage/amp sensing going on?
Sent from my Nexus One using Tapatalk
kardain said:
I use a self powered usb hub as a daily charger for both my Flyer and Kindle. Works fine. With no "burning out". At work, I use a generic 5v 1a charger, no problems either except for charge speed...
The charge state shows USB instead of AC, so it appears there is some sort of voltage/amp sensing going on?
Sent from my Nexus One using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your flyer identifies charger and hub as USB and limits current to 500ma. The initial discussion was about the case when 5V1A charger is identified as AC. This case happens when standart htc phone charger is used (eg HD2 charger). That charger has data pins shortened inside that makes HTC phones (conected by standart USB cable) think that charger is AC. Surprisingly Flyer identifies it also as AC. In that case flyer do not limit current and possibly tries to draw 15W from 5V charger which can deliver only 5W ! I think that good chargers should have protection from oveload....
So soldering data pins together in you generic charger would make it more efficient. I modified my all generic chargers even genuine iphone charger and now all HTC and possibly other phones identify them as AC !! But I still not shure is that safe for flyer.
Little bit offtopic:
Yesterday i dissasembled Griffin car charger thas has 2x1A USB ports. In fact there is a chip inside that can deliver up to 3A. The chip is XL1583E1. This chip can be set to deliver other voltage than 5V by changing resistor.
It would be nice to get somewhere flyer pinouts and see if it uses the same pins for 5V and 9V charging. If the same - it means that this car charger can charge flyer as fast as flyer mains charger just coupling data pins (now it has identifications circuitry for iphone -resistors between vcc,data,data,vdd). If not - it means that charger shoud be modified to deliver 9V and special cable with extra pins will be needed also.
you sure are going through a lot of contortions just to do same things that the HTC charger that comes in the box already does. Why not use the adapter made for the device?
So my charger met with an untimely demise. I am unable to get my hands on a replacement one at the moment.
I am currently using my computer's USB port which as you will know doesn't give quite enough juice. I have seen a microusb charger with 5V and 2A. Will this do a job (and also not get rid of the message that i am drawing more juice than the battery is getting)?
I use the charger that came with my Evo 4g. It needs to sit overnight, but it charges to green.
milomak said:
So my charger met with an untimely demise. I am unable to get my hands on a replacement one at the moment.
I am currently using my computer's USB port which as you will know doesn't give quite enough juice. I have seen a microusb charger with 5V and 2A. Will this do a job (and also not get rid of the message that i am drawing more juice than the battery is getting)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No.
The reason for the strange shape USB lead HTC have is that it gives 9V and 1.7A - 5V isn't going to cut it, it will charge but ever so slowly and if you try to charge whilst using it you'll probably find it doesn't, it just discharges more slowly.
If I were to take an old wall wart I have here that is 9V and 2A and wire a standard micro USB cable to it, would that work to charge my flyer quickly? In other words is the strange connector necessary or just the 9V and 2A?
Sent from my PG41200 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
bsoplinger said:
If I were to take an old wall wart I have here that is 9V and 2A and wire a standard micro USB cable to it, would that work to charge my flyer quickly? In other words is the strange connector necessary or just the 9V and 2A?
Sent from my PG41200 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
NO, because the fast charge requires the special connector on the HTC power cord , a micro-usb will not allow the Flyer to draw the high current.
DigitalMD said:
NO, because the fast charge requires the special connector on the HTC power cord , a micro-usb will not allow the Flyer to draw the high current.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so an adaptor with a usb slot and using the usb cable would work?
milomak said:
so an adaptor with a usb slot and using the usb cable would work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you're using the HTC-specific microUSB cable, the adaptor would have to provide the correct amount of power (9V and 1.7A). Most usb power adaptors do not provide the adequate amount. A little while back, I made the mistake of taking just my phone usb adaptor to charge everything on a trip out of the country for nearly two months. It worked great for everything except for my View. Even though I had the HTC-specific usb cable for the View, it was still like charging via a computer usb port. It would get the job done if I left it all day or all night, but it took forever to charge.
I really would try to track down an OEM charger. Even if you find a usb adaptor that puts out the right amount of power, it still might not provide the short amount of charging time that the OEM charger does. It should theoretically, but many users have had charging time woes when using anything but the OEM charger.
DigitalMD said:
NO, because the fast charge requires the special connector on the HTC power cord , a micro-usb will not allow the Flyer to draw the high current.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No it doesn't. A member of my site took the OEM charger, wired a 90 degree micro USB port to it, charges at full speed.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 2
Volts and Amps - PowerFlask
From the posts on this subject it seems that the Powerflask 13000 mAh powerbank I bought today and which charges at 5.3 volt with a 1amp and 2.5 amp port won't properly charge my flyer?
Can I safely use the 2.5amp port or should I rather stick to the 1amp port.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Maffs,
Maffs said:
From the posts on this subject it seems that the Powerflask 13000 mAh powerbank I bought today and which charges at 5.3 volt with a 1amp and 2.5 amp port won't properly charge my flyer?
Can I safely use the 2.5amp port or should I rather stick to the 1amp port.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Folks on here have mentioned that the device (and other tablet/smartphone devices) will only draw the amount of current (amps) it needs. So using a charger with a higher amp rating is not a concern (in theory).
But I think others have debated this, and even made claims of higher volt/amp rated chargers damaging their devices (however anecdotal).
In any case, from the responses on this thread, it appears that any charger that doesn't have HTC's proprietary connector that they used for the Flyer, will charge the tablet very slowly. I just plugged my Flyer into a microUSB charger the other day (just got back from a trip, and my stock charger was still packed), and it charged extremely slowly. It was slower than I remembered it being. It was plugged in for maybe 4 hours, and only increased the charge by 10 or 15%.
PowerFlask Volts and Amps
Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.
I ran a quick test and connected the Flyer to the battery pack.
The flyer charged from 76% to 84% in 30 minutes . I realise that such a short charge isn't a proper test but it looks promising.
I used the 1amp port and will as you cautioned avoid the 2.5 amp port.
Maffs
When ever I drive, I have my phone hooked up to my Escort Red Line radar detector and my car's stereo via bluetooth (both). In order for me to use the radar detector effective, I need to have GPS and Blueooth enabled. This is a HUGE SUPER OMG battery drainer for my amaze. 20 minutes drive kills about 35% of the phone's power. My radar detector offers a slot to charge my phone BUT it still drains, not enough juice flowing in. Someone said it is because it's probably a .5amp.
So I am running a extension from the 12v lighter that's in the trunk to the front of my car. Amazon has a generic 2.1amp for 3 bucks.
http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Heavy...121&sr=8-1&keywords=htc+amaze+car+charger+amp
But on ebay, I found the original HTC car charger for 15 bucks which is a 1amp.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HTC-Amaze-4...918506?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item27c867022a
What do you guys recommend? My logic says go for the 2.1amp, the phone will draw as much as it needs from it.
The 1amp.
Anything higher you'll damage the phone or the battery.
A wall plug power supply or a usb supply is 5.0v/1amp.
The 2.1 amp is probably 1 amp per port. Although it does not seem to specify.
F9zSlavik said:
What do you guys recommend? My logic says go for the 2.1amp, the phone will draw as much as it needs from it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right!:good:
---------- Post added at 09:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:41 AM ----------
soundping said:
The 1amp.
Anything higher you'll damage the phone or the battery.
A wall plug power supply or a usb supply is 5.0v/1amp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That means a higher capacity battery (more current NOT MORE VOLTAGE) will damage the phone?!!!!
Totally wrong!
A higher current will not damage the phone. A higher voltage will do it!
Please do not mix the current with voltage!
Voltage is same 5 Volts (±5%) for these “USB like” applications (1A or 2.1A power supply our case )They use USB socket/connector but usually only pin 1 and 4 (+ and-)
Regular computer USB port can supply max 0.5-0.9 A depending on version.
For battery charging devices the current can go to 5A.
Higher voltage will trip a warning window telling you to disconnect and use official HTC equipment.
The phone monitors input voltage to protect the equipment.
nyc_tdi said:
That means a higher capacity battery (more current NOT MORE VOLTAGE) will damage the phone?!!!!
Totally wrong!
A higher current will not damage the phone. A higher voltage will do it!
Please do not mix the current with voltage!
Voltage is same 5 Volts (±5%) for these “USB like” applications (1A or 2.1A power supply our case )They use USB socket/connector but usually only pin 1 and 4 (+ and-)
Regular computer USB port can supply max 0.5-0.9 A depending on version.
For battery charging devices the current can go to 5A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
and to add to that... unless you take the charger apart and short pins 2 and 3, it will only ever draw 500mA, as it assumes that it is hooked up to a regular powered USB port... I have bought multiple car charger usb adapters, and I have taken all of them apart and soldered the 2nd and 3rd pins together... otherwise charge time = forever, and sometimes it won't even charge if you have wifi or data/gps/bluetooth all going at once...
I recently got an Amaze and am generally happy with it. The biggest problem I have right now is finding the right car charger for it because the car charger I previously used (a 1A monoprice car charger) doesn't give it enough charge. I have been reading through the forums and some has been saying that if the charger is not working properly, it will recognize it as charging via USB rather than AC. In my case, the phone seems to be reading it as charging through AC, but there still doesn't seem to be enough current going through it. The phone will only charge if NOTHING is going on (i.e. screen's off, no GPS, etc.). I've been using CoPilot GPS and it draws the battery like crazy. Anyone has any idea as to which car charger would work properly with the Amaze such that I'll be able to charge (or at least maintain the charge) while using it as a GPS? Do I need to go up to a 2.1A charger?
I would look for a 4-5 star rated 2.1a car charger on Amazon.
Just read through the comments and feedback and you'll find one that's right for you.
I prefer the USB charger base itself and then using the OEM cable that came with the Amaze.
It seems to charge faster with that cable, at least to me anyway.
Remember though if it's rated 2.1a but has two USB slots that 2.1a will be cut in half if used to charge two different devices.
Hope this helps.
I couldve sworn we talked about this months ago. Let me see if I can find the thread.
nguyendqh said:
I would look for a 4-5 star rated 2.1a car charger on Amazon.
Just read through the comments and feedback and you'll find one that's right for you.
I prefer the USB charger base itself and then using the OEM cable that came with the Amaze.
It seems to charge faster with that cable, at least to me anyway.
Remember though if it's rated 2.1a but has two USB slots that 2.1a will be cut in half if used to charge two different devices.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you won't get the full 2.1a unless you usee a charge only cable or modify the charger as I stated above...
I ended up getting a 2.1A car charger and a USB charge only cable, and it's working perfectly. When I have the screen on full brightness and doing navigation with Co-Pilot GPS, my phone's no longer losing charge and is actually charging. The combo also works with my tablet as well.
blast0id said:
and to add to that... unless you take the charger apart and short pins 2 and 3, it will only ever draw 500mA, as it assumes that it is hooked up to a regular powered USB port... I have bought multiple car charger usb adapters, and I have taken all of them apart and soldered the 2nd and 3rd pins together... otherwise charge time = forever, and sometimes it won't even charge if you have wifi or data/gps/bluetooth all going at once...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is damn helpful! So THAT is why when driving and using gps or whatnot I would always lose more battery even on charger.. So basically I can just solder the middle 2 pins together to trick it into thinking it is being powered like a home charger? No chance it will hurt anything I assume?
Silentbtdeadly said:
This is damn helpful! So THAT is why when driving and using gps or whatnot I would always lose more battery even on charger.. So basically I can just solder the middle 2 pins together to trick it into thinking it is being powered like a home charger? No chance it will hurt anything I assume?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have done this to every single one of my USB car chargers... not a single issue...