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Hello Guys,
i have a problem, i had already replaced the LCD-Screen because the old was broken.
But now i got a new problem... if i place the new screen on the digitalizer i got a glimer on the display. I don't now why. But i already discoverd that this effect only appearce if the LCD-Screen is on the digitalizer..
So what is the exactly reason and how can i fix this problem? Is the digitalizer cracked?
Here are 3 Pictures, one is without the digitalizer.
Thank You,
PS: Sorry for my bad english
did you try to fit digitizer in or just holding it upon the lcd?
what would happen if you rotate it 90degs?
are you sure there is no protection foil still on the lcd???
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behind and on the lcd, there are reflection foils, bluring, light redirecting, polarizating. maybe 6 of them together. some are glued on screen, some are just below it. obviously there is something in digitizer as well, and those in your replaced lcd are not compatible with digitizer.
can you ask for return of the lcd and get another one?
the other option would be getting replacement of digitizer from the same shop.
or third, this effect doesn't look like it's from polarizator. polarizator is glued but those others are not. if it will not change if you rotate it, like with polarizator effect, means it's not polarizator and you can replace those other foils from below lcd. putting ones from your broken screen to the new one. It's quite difficult, but could be done.
okay.. if i rotate the digitalizer the effect changes..
in nearly 90 degree the effect is better than normal.. but not really good..
so is there a magnetism issue??
or whats the reason for this effect?..
could the digitalizer broken? but it's still working..
the display brokes because of violence..
could the digitalizer although broken??
no the digitizer is fine.
the replacement you get was not oem. means was not from the same factory.
someone working in there made some pictures or paintings of the lcd and showed it to his friend who owns a similar factory. He then made this lcd and sold it to you. As he didn't know what sort of, let's call them optic foils, have been used in the original he just put the ones he new were working fine with another mobile. But he didn't expect, as i am surprised too, that the digitizer have an optic foil inside as well. But before realizing, I suppose they already gave bonus to all those little workers and started overnight secret manufacture.
Before realizing the mistake, they already produced a lot of it. To cut the loses, I suppose they created a set of digitizers with a similar practice, which they would sell together with lcd and would be working good.
Now someone, your seller probably thought selling separate lcd would be ok too, so he did. That's why i was suggesting you have right to have an replacement, refund or an new digitizer from him at a fair price.
Of course don't take me too serious on the picture/painting matter, but otherwise I wouldn't be surprised if I came to true quite close
anyway those fake parts are a good quality and in most cases you wouldn't say difference. But shyt happens
as the rotating didn't solve issue completely problem would be those foils below lcd. if your seller would not be cooperative, you've got nothing to loose. open both lcds and change foils over.
Or get a fake digitizer which you would be sure is compatible with that screen.
If not successful, get a combo, lcd + digitizer.
hmm okay..
in the description is written original htc ware..
i had send my seller that problem and now we will see..
thanks a lot for those information..
I would be very interested in knowing how you got the digitizer and screen seperated? Arent they glued and most likely going to break easy?
did you mean the digitalizer and the lcd display or the front screen?
I opened one up once and the LCD appeared to be glued on to the back of the front screen (which I assume is the digitizer?)
ah okay.. eeerm.. i don't know that the lcd was glued on the digitalizer.. because my display has broken and the liquid was out of the display.. so the LCD was easy to take off..
But I've read some guys has warmed it firstly with a hair dryer and then they could take the display off..
hx4700 Killer said:
I opened one up once and the LCD appeared to be glued on to the back of the front screen (which I assume is the digitizer?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you make me want to open ma rhodium.
if it's glued use a razor, or heat gun & blade like on apples.
then clean it and put new tape.
fake3 said:
ah okay.. eeerm.. i don't know that the lcd was glued on the digitalizer.. because my display has broken and the liquid was out of the display.. so the LCD was easy to take off..
But I've read some guys has warmed it firstly with a hair dryer and then they could take the display off..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah dryer is maybe more safe just keep it below 100 cels. but it's not so vulnerable on bending too.
fake3: you sure you don't have protector foil on that lcd you bought?
i been playing around and get similar efect with a protection foil below polaroid.
there was still one protection foil on the front of the lcd.. but i already removed this foil..
but can you make a picture where the foil the polaroid is??
fake3 said:
there was still one protection foil on the front of the lcd.. but i already removed this foil..
but can you make a picture where the foil the polaroid is??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was playing with just a generic foils. not rhodium.
They can put filters inside plastic nowadays. and mix even more of them and it's all still tiny.
If there is one in digitizer, it would cut sun reflections of lcd and would make good sense.
Glass could be tented, too. digitizer is usually one glass and one foil.
even if you would find something glued on lcd or digitizer, it's not possible to take it of without damage. I talked to people producing foils and applying them they can't take that off too.
There have you be one polarizer glued on front of lcd, otherwise you would see nothing. And they usually gluing one on back. That make the light more efficient. redirect light in useful directions, but is not necessary, that is another possible difference in your case. And probable, because it spares $ and space. But it's glued - no help there if that's the case.
but then there are all those which are dispersing light evenly, those you can try to change. They all have to be used in a set working together they create
something called Brewster condition, if that's not met, you see something like you see on your screen. every active foil is a part of it, and obviously there is something in your digitizer.
Just had another though, there is a small chance that htc decided to change factory or producing process themselves. and both are original. But I wouldn't say that's very probable.
So guys,
i solved the problem..
I bought an new Digitalizer from the same seller and now it works fine..
Thanks a lot for the hint with the different manufractures..
Greetz
happy to hear that
no worries
guys.. i wan to ask something..
my LCD is glued to my digitizer. since both of it is broken.. i juz throw the whole part away.
but then, i diden really glue my new / replacement LCD to my digitizer.
so i assume they did have some space in between.
although my rhodium works well now, but my digitizer only able to sense fingernail o stylus only. anything a tad bigger than fingernail, it wont pick up. neither my thumb nor my finger.
is this possible due to the space in between the screen made it so? or my digitizer was some lousy quality stuff?
devalian said:
guys.. i wan to ask something..
my LCD is glued to my digitizer. since both of it is broken.. i juz throw the whole part away.
but then, i diden really glue my new / replacement LCD to my digitizer.
so i assume they did have some space in between.
although my rhodium works well now, but my digitizer only able to sense fingernail o stylus only. anything a tad bigger than fingernail, it wont pick up. neither my thumb nor my finger.
is this possible due to the space in between the screen made it so? or my digitizer was some lousy quality stuff?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The digitizer is a seperate part from the screen. It sends X - Y coords to the device letting it know where you pressed and the device coorelates that to what was on the screen where you pressed.
What I am saying is that you could have the two pieces seperated the screen in one place on the digitizer in another and you should still be able to press on the digitizer and have the device react appropriately.
The digitizer works independantly from the screen.
haha.. so in short.. it means by digitizer is lousy rite?
I Have de same problem, I need a new lcd screen but i dont know where buy
please help me
and i need the service manual
Thks
Do anyone has video or pdf or wtever guide to give the instruction how to disassemble the flyer?(i am thinking to repair the flyer myself) Thank you
Here you go:
www.techrepublic.com/photos/crackin...3?seq=2&tag=content;siu-container#photo-frame
thx, but i have 1 more question, do u know how to remove the digitizer? is it the same way as other smartphone?(use hot gun and remove the digitizer?)
athris said:
thx, but i have 1 more question, do u know how to remove the digitizer? is it the same way as other smartphone?(use hot gun and remove the digitizer?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, there is a note in the techrepublic teardown about it being bonded like a smartphone. You should however be vary careful given the size of the screen more heat (not temperature) is required, and the risk of thermally cracking the underlying LCD panel is correspondingly higher.
Beware! Learn from my adventures.
So, I took apart my wife's HTC Flyer this past week to replace the screen. While the Techrepublic teardown shots are helpful, it's missing about ten steps at the end that involve actually removing the screen. I've messed around with tabletpc's and laptops before but not cell phones so wasn't really prepared for the fact that you have to pretty much take the whole Flyer apart in order to be able to get the screen off. As far as I can tell, no one else has documented taking one of these apart to replace the screen. I will write up something more involved when I get a chance but here's a couple things that I found out about the screen.
1. The part of the screen that you touch with your finger and stylus is not glass! It is a heavy plastic layer that is adhered to the glass digitizer. It is clear with the black around the edge and cutout for the HTC logo. This was the part of my screen that had chips in it. I tried to use a screen repair kit to repair the chips (which I did) but it took off the outer, darker finish in the process. So I moved to the next step, replacing the screen. I didn't know about the outer layer, otherwise that would have been much easier to replace. But, I don't think you can get that part unless you have connections with HTC.
2. The outer layer/digitizer glass comes as one part (along with the n-trig connector). I ordered mine for around $50 on ebay.
3. You will need to take the back off and much of the motherboard to be able to disconnect the n-trig connector.
4. Taking the screen off will take heat. I used a hair dryer but more heat could be better although you have to be careful of the lcd underneath. My digitizer broke while removing and ending up putting a small gouge in the lcd. I was able to fix the lcd well enough, just be careful.
5. HTC used a buttload of sticky tape to secure the glass to the lcd and case. My cheap blue pry tool quickly broke so I ended up using a plastic butter knife to separate digitizer from the case. Once off, I used Goo Be Gone to get rid of all the sticky tape from it. I'm ready to put new tape on but I'm not sure exactly what they used. Anyone have any ideas? It's a black, closed cell sticky tape that is really stringy when it comes to taking off. Most of the stuff I see for sale online seems to be really thin stuff. I picked up some Scotch Outdoor Mounting Tape by 3M that looks to be similar that I am going to experiment with. Anyone know for sure what they used?
6. I put the new digitizer on temporarily to check to see if it worked and it did (yay)! But I still need need to cut all of the tape and put it in the right spot. There are also these little plastic tabs that go on the backside of the screen. They are used to refract light from the led's to light up the outside navigation buttons. Be careful not to lose these. I did, and had to make one. We'll see how I did once I get it back together.
7. I found that there's not a lot of parts out there for these things. At least not compared to cell phones. Now that they're being discontinued, I don't know if that is going to help.
Anyway, I took a few pics along the way and will try to write something up when I get more time. I just wanted to give folks a heads-up on the screen and how it's put together. I can't imagine the View's screen is any different. So whatever they're using for the outer layer isn't Gorilla Glass. Or is it?
UPDATE:
Here are the promised photos of this disaster. I'll add the commentary tomorrow (I'm tired).
Two more comments and I can finally upload my photos.
I need to replace my LCD and Glass...anyone know where I can order these parts...I cant find them anywhere.
Hard to find parts for the Flyer/View which could be a problem. Looks like some is selling an LCD, though on eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PH-LCD-HT-2...360?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27bf8f0390 from my PG41200 using Tapatalk
I purchased mine here and it works great.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/260906551668?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Much better price. What kind of tape did you use? Also did you have to replace any of the light reflacting plastic tabs that are used to light the buttons around the outside of the digitizer?
Sent from my PG41200 using Tapatalk
Will a replacement screen for the Flyer work well on a View?
I don't see why not. Except for some of the internals, they are pretty much identical hardware wise.
So I dropped my phone today, and it must have fell on the corner good enough that it cracked the screen from the top-left to the middle-right.
Going to replace the digitizer/LCD as a combo since it's a bit easier than replacing just the digitizer.
Ordered this today:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350582267363?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
Watched a couple of the repair videos (specifically this one: http://blog.repairsuniverse.net/how-to-fix-htc-rezound-screen/), and they say that there's adhesive on the back of this assembly as well that you need to pry away from (in the previously linked video, they push the assembly away from the housing from the backside and pry away from the housing/adhesive). My question is... am I going to have to replace this adhesive once I pry the assembly away from the housing? Or should the adhesive that's there be good enough to secure it as long as I don't rip it away very badly?
If I do need to get new adhesive, anybody have any links as to what to get?
Thanks in advance, I appreciate it!
I never replace a screen before. good luck
Bump.
Still haven't done this, as I haven't had time on the weekends yet. Got a GNexus to get me by, but I'm missing my Rezound.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069YNZV2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
doing all this is very tedious work... make sure you get the soft button hinges in correctly or the screen wont sit flat..
agentofchaos said:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069YNZV2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
doing all this is very tedious work... make sure you get the soft button hinges in correctly or the screen wont sit flat..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Should be less tedious since I got the LCD/Digitizer assembly together, so I don't have to replace just the digitizer.
I replaced the digitizer on mine last year. The process was just a disaster for me (ended up cracking my LCD)...but since yours is coming with the LCD and digitizer already glued together...perhaps you should have some better luck. It won't be necessarily difficult to do...it could just become a pain.
For one...there are clear tabs attached to the digitizer that essentially "draw" the red LED lights from the board down to the buttons on the bottom. These tabs are literally sandwiched between the digitizer and LCD...you'll see what I mean when you separate the broken digitizer/LCD from the housing...there will be 4 clear tabs sticking out from the bottom of the LCD. I did not find any seller that was selling those tabs, and it's quite possible the one you bought won't have them. What this means is...the 4 capacitive buttons along the bottom will still work, they just won't light up anymore. Not a big deal to some. I tried peeling them off my old digitizer and gluing them to the new one...but that didn't come out right at all. And your new LCD/digitizer will already be glued together and you're probably not going to want to separate them just to try and save the buttons.
Secondly, I've used the 3m double-sided roll of tape (like the one linked to above). It'll probably be your best bet...but know that, you could possibly need to redo it after a while of use. I could push on the top of my screen with my thumb, and I would see it kinda "flex" a bit, so the tape wasn't holding all too well. I'd also get fuzz and dirt on the screen of the front camera over time. So do a good, thorough job taping the digitizer/LCD down to the housing.
I lucked out (sort of) because my wife decided to give her Rez a bath and killed it. So I essentially took her digitizer, LCD and housing and use it on my phone.
OH, and don't overtighten the 6 screws for the red back housing! The bottom two screws especially. I did that and it cracked. And be gentle removing the red housing from the camera..sometimes the camera likes to get stuck inside of the camera housing and prying it apart will destroy it.
OpAckTool said:
I replaced the digitizer on mine last year. The process was just a disaster for me (ended up cracking my LCD)...but since yours is coming with the LCD and digitizer already glued together...perhaps you should have some better luck. It won't be necessarily difficult to do...it could just become a pain.
For one...there are clear tabs attached to the digitizer that essentially "draw" the red LED lights from the board down to the buttons on the bottom. These tabs are literally sandwiched between the digitizer and LCD...you'll see what I mean when you separate the broken digitizer/LCD from the housing...there will be 4 clear tabs sticking out from the bottom of the LCD. I did not find any seller that was selling those tabs, and it's quite possible the one you bought won't have them. What this means is...the 4 capacitive buttons along the bottom will still work, they just won't light up anymore. Not a big deal to some. I tried peeling them off my old digitizer and gluing them to the new one...but that didn't come out right at all. And your new LCD/digitizer will already be glued together and you're probably not going to want to separate them just to try and save the buttons.
Secondly, I've used the 3m double-sided roll of tape (like the one linked to above). It'll probably be your best bet...but know that, you could possibly need to redo it after a while of use. I could push on the top of my screen with my thumb, and I would see it kinda "flex" a bit, so the tape wasn't holding all too well. I'd also get fuzz and dirt on the screen of the front camera over time. So do a good, thorough job taping the digitizer/LCD down to the housing.
I lucked out (sort of) because my wife decided to give her Rez a bath and killed it. So I essentially took her digitizer, LCD and housing and use it on my phone.
OH, and don't overtighten the 6 screws for the red back housing! The bottom two screws especially. I did that and it cracked. And be gentle removing the red housing from the camera..sometimes the camera likes to get stuck inside of the camera housing and prying it apart will destroy it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the heads up.
Swapped out the screen (didn't get any 3M tape yet, but I wanted to make sure the screen worked properly / multi-touch was recognized everywhere).
Swapped the screens, re-assembled (managed to leave some adhesive where the lcd/digitizer assembly pulls out of on there, so it sticks, but like what happens with you it flexes just a bit. Will probably order some 3M tape one of these days and take off all of the old adhesive and replace it. Glad you mentioned the issue with the camera getting stuck in the housing; that did happen to me, and I had to work it out of there. The tiny LED board did pop out of it's connector, but I popped it back in easily and it still works fine.
I also didn't put the soft-key light tabs in the new LCD/digitizer (like you said, didn't want to pry the new one apart). Doesn't bother me much anyway, as I had them turned off in my ROM anyway lol.
So far it works well. Won't be my daily again yet until I have some 3M tape to put on there so the assembly is secured in the housing.
Just an update. Got some double-sided tape, and scraped off the old, remnants of the previous tape that was there. Cut new strips to fit where the old ones were, and it fits much more securely now. No screen flex or wiggle anymore. Charging it back up, and thinking about flashing a different ROM now that I have it fixed.
All-in-all, it was a pretty easy fix.
Well I did one last week that was successful but I was practicing on one with a broken digitizer so it was no good anyway. I broke it. This one seemed more hard to separate from the lcd. I don't know why. The lcd lifted from the housing and I didnt use much heat at all. But I'll post pictures for anyone who would like to attempt this. You can see on the pic with the tool how thin the glass is and where the lcd lifted from the housing.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using xda app-developers app
Oh yea.you have to be extra careful of that flex cable connecting to the lcd which is exposed
Sent from my SCH-I545 using xda app-developers app
warriorpluto said:
Well I did one last week that was successful but I was practicing on one with a broken digitizer so it was no good anyway. I broke it. This one seemed more hard to separate from the lcd. I don't know why. The lcd lifted from the housing and I didnt use much heat at all. But I'll post pictures for anyone who would like to attempt this. You can see on the pic with the tool how thin the glass is and where the lcd lifted from the housing.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was looking for a thread to post this in, this may be the right place as you may have an idea, since you just installed a mega screen.
I cracked my mega screen last night, originally the phone was still working. In about half an hour the screen wasn't registering swipes, so I can't even unlock the screen. I dropped the phone in the rain so I'm not sure if it's simply the screen or if water has gotten in to the cracks?
Anyways, I am trying to make a decision on wether to sell my broken phone to Mazuma mobile and get around $120 back, or wether it's worth trying to get fixed. I'm not confident fixing phones, so ordering in the screen and attempting it is not an option. What I want to know, is what are the chances of a local repair shop being able to source a mega screen, and fix it, for a decent cost that would make getting it fixed the better option? Since you have just installed a screen I figure you at least know how much the part is
You can buy the lcd screen + digitizer which comes all pre-assembled and all you have to do it swap the whole screen + digitizer out as one unit..this way no fear of breaking anything..i see one on ebay for $158.00 US for the mega 6.3 i9200..but i think it will also work on the other 6.3 mega models..as they must all be the same that way...but i am not 100% sure on that. :good:
leetrevor81 said:
I was looking for a thread to post this in, this may be the right place as you may have an idea, since you just installed a mega screen.
I cracked my mega screen last night, originally the phone was still working. In about half an hour the screen wasn't registering swipes, so I can't even unlock the screen. I dropped the phone in the rain so I'm not sure if it's simply the screen or if water has gotten in to the cracks?
Anyways, I am trying to make a decision on wether to sell my broken phone to Mazuma mobile and get around $120 back, or wether it's worth trying to get fixed. I'm not confident fixing phones, so ordering in the screen and attempting it is not an option. What I want to know, is what are the chances of a local repair shop being able to source a mega screen, and fix it, for a decent cost that would make getting it fixed the better option? Since you have just installed a screen I figure you at least know how much the part is
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you get the lcd and digitizer together, you can fix yourself and it's easy just as star master says. If you have a shop nearby they can replace just the glass
Sent from my SCH-I545 using xda app-developers app
leetrevor81 said:
I was looking for a thread to post this in, this may be the right place as you may have an idea, since you just installed a mega screen.
I cracked my mega screen last night, originally the phone was still working. In about half an hour the screen wasn't registering swipes, so I can't even unlock the screen. I dropped the phone in the rain so I'm not sure if it's simply the screen or if water has gotten in to the cracks?
Anyways, I am trying to make a decision on wether to sell my broken phone to Mazuma mobile and get around $120 back, or wether it's worth trying to get fixed. I'm not confident fixing phones, so ordering in the screen and attempting it is not an option. What I want to know, is what are the chances of a local repair shop being able to source a mega screen, and fix it, for a decent cost that would make getting it fixed the better option? Since you have just installed a screen I figure you at least know how much the part is
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And don't sell. $120 is a freaking rip off
Sent from my SCH-I545 using xda app-developers app
warriorpluto said:
And don't sell. $120 is a freaking rip off
Sent from my SCH-I545 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How much do you think it would go for on ebay? (or somewhere else) I didn't think a damaged phone would be worth selling?
That phone is still with over $200 as is.just the good motherboard alone. Especially if it had a clean imei number..then counting other parts of the phone too
Sent from my SCH-I545 using xda app-developers app
Good tutorial how to fix it
There is some kind of double side transparent adhesive between LCD and digitizer. So good luck
Opened front glass
Hi, I opened front glass of Mega 5.8 to clean the dust inside it. When I put it back, the touch is not working. Earlier it was working perfectly, I did not remove any cables. Also that I cleaned it with dry cloth while the phone was on.
What may be the issue?
warriorpluto said:
Oh yea.you have to be extra careful of that flex cable connecting to the lcd which is exposed
Sent from my SCH-I545 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How does it separate?
warriorpluto said:
Well I did one last week that was successful but I was practicing on one with a broken digitizer so it was no good anyway. I broke it. This one seemed more hard to separate from the lcd. I don't know why. The lcd lifted from the housing and I didnt use much heat at all. But I'll post pictures for anyone who would like to attempt this. You can see on the pic with the tool how thin the glass is and where the lcd lifted from the housing.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I've never worked on one of these before but I have repaired many GS3, GS4, Note 2 with no problems. You successfully repaired one so my question is, is the optical adhesive like the GS3 where it rubs off with your finger? I've noticed a difference in GS3 & GS4 adhesive the GS4 is more difficult to clean off digitizer.
That yellow flex cable in your pic looks like a Digitizer flex. The layers are LCD (bottom) / Digitizer (sits on top of LCD so center) / Glass (top which is what our finger touches).
I have a Mega coming in tomorrow and the customer bought just the glass online. I'll see if I can separate. If you have any questions let me know I have repaired many a phones.
Did you get it?
ReyesARG said:
Hi,
I've never worked on one of these before but I have repaired many GS3, GS4, Note 2 with no problems. You successfully repaired one so my question is, is the optical adhesive like the GS3 where it rubs off with your finger? I've noticed a difference in GS3 & GS4 adhesive the GS4 is more difficult to clean off digitizer.
That yellow flex cable in your pic looks like a Digitizer flex. The layers are LCD (bottom) / Digitizer (sits on top of LCD so center) / Glass (top which is what our finger touches).
I have a Mega coming in tomorrow and the customer bought just the glass online. I'll see if I can separate. If you have any questions let me know I have repaired many a phones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wonder how was it going with your repair?
http://www.witrigs.com/samsung-galaxy-mega-replacement-parts
Adhesive is a problem
letus1 said:
I wonder how was it going with your repair?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey,
No good. The LCD was lifting off the frame which is a guarantee to break on such a large device. Also the adhesive is not the same as the GS3, it doesn't separate as easy. I stopped after I noticed the optical adhesive was not the same so do not attempt to "Lift Separate"
The best way to remove this digitizer is with a hot plate & (.10mm) molybdenum wire and slowly drag the wire between the LCD & Digi while face down on hotplate.
ReyesARG said:
Hey,
No good. The LCD was lifting off the frame which is a guarantee to break on such a large device. Also the adhesive is not the same as the GS3, it doesn't separate as easy. I stopped after I noticed the optical adhesive was not the same so do not attempt to "Lift Separate"
The best way to remove this digitizer is with a hot plate & (.10mm) molybdenum wire and slowly drag the wire between the LCD & Digi while face down on hotplate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If i separated the digitizer and the glass ftom the lcd, than can i bound the new one with LOCA or will that damage the LCD?
ReyesARG said:
Hey,
No good. The LCD was lifting off the frame which is a guarantee to break on such a large device. Also the adhesive is not the same as the GS3, it doesn't separate as easy. I stopped after I noticed the optical adhesive was not the same so do not attempt to "Lift Separate"
The best way to remove this digitizer is with a hot plate & (.10mm) molybdenum wire and slowly drag the wire between the LCD & Digi while face down on hotplate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I knew that was the only way to do it, with hot plate and fishing pole string. I'm sure it's a slow process. I'll have to invest in a good hot plate.
Sent from my SM-N900V using xda app-developers app
No huge investment needed, I use a standard electric pancake griddle which can be bought for around $20. Good, even heat. I've never tried the fishing line method but a pair of business cards does the job very well. I get it started with a dull razor blade in the corner and as soon as I see the glass separating, I slide a business card in behind it. Do the same for the other side. On these big screens, slide the cards down a bit, lay it down on heat, repeat. The trick to not busting the LCD is to keep the heat on it and take your time.
My temperature is set to 200 farenheit. Not sure off hand what that converts to in celsius. Ideally, you don't want the surface to pass 120 celsius. If in doubt, start low and increase temp slowly until the glue softens enough.
The glue we're taking about is LOCA[liquid optically clear adhesive] and is UV activated. It can be bought online pretty cheap. If you're going to replace the glass, go ahead and use the LOCA when putting the new glass on. I've seen sensitivity issues on glass that doesn't have the glue between it and the LCD. If you use the glue be sure to remove EVERYTHING from the frame including cameras, speakers, buttons and mics as it can get messy and go pretty much everywhere. To activate the glue you can literally take it outside on a sunny day and it will cure fairly quickly, about 5 mins or so. To remove it from unwanted areas just use a toothpick, toothbrush, and some rubbing alcohol. I've done it dozens of times this way and it always comes out looking factory fresh
VirtueToVice said:
No huge investment needed, I use a standard electric pancake griddle which can be bought for around $20. Good, even heat. I've never tried the fishing line method but a pair of business cards does the job very well. I get it started with a dull razor blade in the corner and as soon as I see the glass separating, I slide a business card in behind it. Do the same for the other side. On these big screens, slide the cards down a bit, lay it down on heat, repeat. The trick to not busting the LCD is to keep the heat on it and take your time.
My temperature is set to 200 farenheit. Not sure off hand what that converts to in celsius. Ideally, you don't want the surface to pass 120 celsius. If in doubt, start low and increase temp slowly until the glue softens enough.
The glue we're taking about is LOCA[liquid optically clear adhesive] and is UV activated. It can be bought online pretty cheap. If you're going to replace the glass, go ahead and use the LOCA when putting the new glass on. I've seen sensitivity issues on glass that doesn't have the glue between it and the LCD. If you use the glue be sure to remove EVERYTHING from the frame including cameras, speakers, buttons and mics as it can get messy and go pretty much everywhere. To activate the glue you can literally take it outside on a sunny day and it will cure fairly quickly, about 5 mins or so. To remove it from unwanted areas just use a toothpick, toothbrush, and some rubbing alcohol. I've done it dozens of times this way and it always comes out looking factory fresh
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What kind of griddle? This is the one without the edges right?
Sent from my SM-N900V using xda app-developers app
starmaster10 said:
You can buy the lcd screen + digitizer which comes all pre-assembled and all you have to do it swap the whole screen + digitizer out as one unit..this way no fear of breaking anything..i see one on ebay for $158.00 US for the mega 6.3 i9200..but i think it will also work on the other 6.3 mega models..as they must all be the same that way...but i am not 100% sure on that. :good:
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I like this..
fixxforyou said:
May i ask how much for this glass?
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Who give your answer ? Mention it..
i recently dropped my phone and it got a crack in the bottom right corner around the back button stretching up to the middle of the left hand side of the screen, and i need help repairing it.
Im not sure if i can just replace the glass myself or i need to replace the digitizer or any other parts as the screen and back button still work perfectly fine.
I'd also like to know whether this job is easy enough to do at home as i am on a low budget, however i dont have much experience fixing phones.
much appreciated if anyone can help me
Replace the screen assembly, glass plus digitiser and oled screen. Trying to unglue the glass is very hard and the heat can kill the phone.
boomboomer said:
Replace the screen assembly, glass plus digitiser and oled screen. Trying to unglue the glass is very hard and the heat can kill the phone.
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Replacing the whole digitiser is a lot easier, but beware cheap(ish) ebay parts - I replaced my digitiser with an assembly from ebay, but the glass in the replacement broke very easily.... replaced it again and it's cracked again, without even having a hard knock. Nowehere near as sturdy as OEM parts. Screen still works so leaving it for now
Words of warning...
I attempted to replace the glass on my S3 after I dropped it. I have over 20 years experience as a computer engineer and access to loads of tools. I watched numerous YouTube videos on the process before I started yet still I managed to break the digitiser. In the end I bit the bullet and bought another brand new S3 for £200. The cheapo replacement glass I bought from eBay did not seem very sturdy either - I'm certain it's not gorilla glass. My advice would be to get it fixed professionally by someone who uses OEM parts but then again, how close in price would that be to a brand new phone?