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i bought two extra usb cables from amazon, i can't link to them since i don't have enough posts yet, but they're the "EMPIRE USB Data Cable for Verizon HTC ThunderBolt" from amazon
i intentionally looked for some that said for use with thunderbolt in case there was something different than just a micro-usb cable; however, it does not seem that these cables charge as well as the cable that ships. it takes several hours even when trying to charge with the original AC adapter using one of these cables vs the ~1.5-2 hours with the cable that comes with. When trying to use a computer or a car adapter it just holds the charge steady, if using navigation it actually drops battery while plugged in!
is there something i'm missing here? they should all be the same right? can anyone point me to some that actually work? (preferably from amazon since i have gift cards there)
I've had the same problem.
Make sure you are getting the correct voltage. I think my issues are that USB is a slower charge than outlets and the "extra" charger I had was for my bluetooth which had a lower voltage.
strobieone said:
I've had the same problem.
Make sure you are getting the correct voltage. I think my issues are that USB is a slower charge than outlets and the "extra" charger I had was for my bluetooth which had a lower voltage.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah, i understand that usb from the computer will be a lower voltage, which is what i thought the issue was at first. but then i tried using the original AC adapter with the replacement usb cable and it was slower than the original cable. i don't see why the cable would make a difference, but it definitely appears to.
i downloaded the current widget and can see that just swapping between the OEM cable and the aftermarket cable the charging current is quite different. ~+600ma with the OEM and -100ma to +300ma with the aftermarket (yes at times it was LOSING charge while plugged in using the aftermarket)
roppetty said:
yeah, i understand that usb from the computer will be a lower voltage, which is what i thought the issue was at first. but then i tried using the original AC adapter with the replacement usb cable and it was slower than the original cable. i don't see why the cable would make a difference, but it definitely appears to.
i downloaded the current widget and can see that just swapping between the OEM cable and the aftermarket cable the charging current is quite different. ~+600ma with the OEM and -100ma to +300ma with the aftermarket (yes at times it was LOSING charge while plugged in using the aftermarket)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should never use any other cable than the one provided with your Thunderbolt. On the site it may say that it "Works" with the Thunderbolt but that doesn't mean you are going to get the performance you need out of it. I have had that problem plenty of times with older cables and sadly it keeps me buying the slightly overpriced cables from Verizon so I know that I get what I need.
roppetty said:
yeah, i understand that usb from the computer will be a lower voltage, which is what i thought the issue was at first. but then i tried using the original AC adapter with the replacement usb cable and it was slower than the original cable. i don't see why the cable would make a difference, but it definitely appears to.
i downloaded the current widget and can see that just swapping between the OEM cable and the aftermarket cable the charging current is quite different. ~+600ma with the OEM and -100ma to +300ma with the aftermarket (yes at times it was LOSING charge while plugged in using the aftermarket)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It sounds like a defective cable. Check to see how it's charging (AC or USB). If it says USB when connected to the HTC charger, the cable is bad.
I use micro-USB cables I got from Monoprice, no problems.
mike.s said:
It sounds like a defective cable. Check to see how it's charging (AC or USB). If it says USB when connected to the HTC charger, the cable is bad.
I use micro-USB cables I got from Monoprice, no problems.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not defective, it's just not designed for charging. OP, always make sure it says it is a charger cable, not a data cable, when you buy one.
WeaselWeaz said:
It's not defective, it's just not designed for charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
BS. You have no clue what you're talking about. The TB follows the USB charging specification.
The thing about USB (Universal serial bus) cables is that they are UNIVERSAL. It doesn't matter where you get them from, what they say, or what they are branded. They have to meet certain specs (including materials and current capacity) in order to get the USB label.
If you're having a problem, I am 99% sure the cable is not the issue.
Try out monoprice.com. I've used them for years. You can get 3 wall chargers, 5 USB cables and 2 car chargers (all 1A) for like $25, shipped.
Edit: QFT
mike.s said:
BS. You have no clue what you're talking about. The TB follows the USB charging specification.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
necosino said:
The thing about USB (Universal serial bus) cables is that they are UNIVERSAL. It doesn't matter where you get them from, what they say, or what they are branded. They have to meet certain specs (including materials and current capacity) in order to get the USB label.
If you're having a problem, I am 99% sure the cable is not the issue.
Try out monoprice.com. I've used them for years. You can get 3 wall chargers, 5 USB cables and 2 car chargers (all 1A) for like $25, shipped.
Edit: QFT
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah, i'm with you, that's why i posed to see if there was something i'm missing and didn't know about. i'm a computer engineer so i know a cable is a cable is a cable, which is why i was like wtf when these didn't work the same.
thanks all, at least i know i didn't miss something and these should work the same.
ive had this problem on every phone. takes forever to charge through usb.
A USB cable is a USB cable is a USB cable is a USB cable.
If you are doing seat of your pants checks on charging, etc, they are never going to be accurate. CPU usage, network usage, etc while the phone is charging will affect how quickly it does charge. The stock charger provides 1000mA to charge the device, if you are using it, or another app is doing something (downloading data, using cpu, etc) it will not charge as quickly because power is being drained as it is being charged.
There is too much that would cause a slower charge state that you can't compensate for by a seat of the pants judgement on charging.
Its all about the mA.
No, thats not a storm. Its just my Thunderbolt layin down this post.
I have the same issue. I have tried four different usb cables with the oem charger and only two charge normally, the oem and one that I had with an old phone that I put a mini to micro adapter on to fit. The other two, one actually micro one mini to micro adapted, charge extremely slow. Yes a cable is a cable, but given I use the oem charger, the only differing things are the cables.
For what it's worth, I hate to burst your bubbles but not all USB cables are equal. And, in fact, not all phones are optimized for USB cables. Just because a cable looks like a USB cable and works as a USB cable doesn't mean that it is ONLY a USB cable. There are quite a few devices out there that can be charged (albeit slowly) with a USB cable but can be charged quickly with a cable that you only think is a USB cable. Take the Nook Color, for instance. The cable that it comes with looks like a USB cable on all accounts, but it's not. I forget which (both are techniques currently used) but either it has extra pins or has a data pin repurposed to provide additional power so it can charge faster. There are quite a few devices out there that are like this, and it seems like the number of these devices just keep growing and growing.
Now these "non-USB" devices still support USB standards, and can be charged via USB standard cables. However, they are optimized for non-USB standards and charge faster with these non-USB cables.
I'm honestly not sure if our Thunderbolts are such a device or not, and if the cables that they come with are such cables. They very well could be, and what the OP claims goes along with that theory. But honestly, I simply do not know.
EDIT:
Oh, and one more example. Go take a look at the custom "USB" cables that Team Blackhat had made that can power Motorola devices in CWM without a battery in the device. This is yet another example of where a USB cable isn't a USB cable.
Having the data pins connected to 5v sources is part of the charger itself; it has nothing to do with the cable.
Every USB cable has 4 pins: two 5v+, a gnd and a 5v- if the second + and - aren't connected to a source in the charger, you will only get a 0.5A charge, and it will go slow. If the charger DOES have them connected, you get the full 1A, and a much faster charge.
If the charger or cable is anything different then it is not USB. End of story. I know some phones have extra pins in the USB location for video out, for example, but those don't interfere with the standard USB pins.
Sent from my ThunderBolt using Tapatalk
necosino said:
Every USB cable has 4 pins: two 5v+, a gnd and a 5v-
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wrong, kinda. Check this out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nook_Color#USB_port
The Nook Color uses a modified connector with two depths. The first depth is compatible with micro-usb (5-conductor), while the second depth has 12 conductors. This change was made to increase the amount of power available to charge the larger battery of the Nook Color when using the included cable.
Because of this, the USB cable included with the Nook Color is physically incompatible with other devices employing standard micro-usb connectors. However, the Nook Color itself is physically compatible with standard micro-usb cords.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now I realize that calling this a "USB Cable" might be stretching the definition of "USB Cable" (hence the "wrong, kinda" comment) but more than likely, most people have no clue that one cable is different than another, so the end result is that, for all practical purposes, we DO have different types of USB cables.
necosino said:
Every USB cable has 4 pins: two 5v+, a gnd and a 5v- if the second + and - aren't connected to a source in the charger, you will only get a 0.5A charge, and it will go slow. If the charger DOES have them connected, you get the full 1A, and a much faster charge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Close, but not quite.
The pins are +5, Ground, +D and -D. All power is drawn through the +5 and Ground lines. The D lines are used for data transfer.
Per the USB specifications, a device can only draw 100 mA without enumerating (negotiating via USB, implies both ends have "intelligence"). If it can enumerate, it can negotiate for up to 500 mA (e.g. plugged into a PC which has a "driver" which recognizes the phone).
There are also specifications for DCPs (Dedicated Charging Ports). For these, the D+ and D- pins (the center two in a full sized USB connector) on the charger must be connected together with no more than 200 Ohms. These ports must provide at least 500 mA, but can provide more (micro-USB connectors are rated to 1.8 A). That's how the phone knows it can draw more than 100 mA from a "dumb" power adapter.
The TB follows the USB charging spec. Here are some things that can happen.
If it's plugged into a charger which doesn't follow the USB spec (D+ and D- not connected together, these are fairly common), it can only draw 100 mA. It doesn't matter if you bought a "2.5 Amp USB charger," if the charger doesn't follow the spec, a device which does isn't supposed to draw more than 100 mA. That's enough to charge it very slowly when the screen is off and it's idling. If the phone is doing anything, the battery will actually be discharging. This is a problem which seems to be common with many car chargers. A lot of device will ignore the 100 mA spec limit, and draw whatever they can, which is why they will charge from an improper adapter.
It's plugged into a PC with no driver - same thing.
It's plugged into a PC with a driver - it can negotiate and pull 500 mA. This is enough to charge while running in almost all cases (it might be on the edge if streaming video via 4G with GPS on, etc.) It will charge, but not as fast as it could.
For all of the above, a TB will show "USB" as the charging type.
It's plugged into a USB DCP. By spec, these must be able to deliver at least 500 mA. The AC adapter shipped with the TB is marked 1.0 A, and the phone won't draw more than 1.0 A (the most I've seen it use to charge the battery is ~800 mA). This will allows the fastest charging. With a DCP, the TB will show "AC" as the charging type.
Cables can have the same effect - all USB cables are supposed to be basically the same. But, some manufacturer's play loose with the spec. They may have "USB" cables with resistors or other changes inside which signal different things to a device. They may not have proper gauge wiring. It may just be a bad cable. Etc.
I've charged the TB with the stock AC charger using both the stock cable, and one I got from Monoprice. Works fine. I've also got a USB hub I converted to a charging station (follows the spec for USB dedicated charging ports), and that works fine with both the original and the Monoprice cables.
I have run into "flaky" cables, where they only work right if jiggled around a bit. Maybe they've been flexed too much, and have an intermittent connection. Maybe the contacts have gotten dirty. I don't worry about it, I just throw those away, you can get new ones from Monoprice for less than a buck.
Thanks Mike S (Also my initials, lol) That's what I get for posting after staying up a bit too late.
well i just ordered two micro usb cables from monoprice. we'll see if those fare any better.
the only thing i can guess is the power wires are a small gauge in the cables i bought from amazon. monoprice has two different kinds, some use 28awg for both data/power and then they have some that have 24awg for power and 28awg for data. i'm hoping that getting the bigger wire for the power will solve the issue.
also, i've been using juiceplotter and you can visibly see the slope of the charge change when switching just between these cables i bought vs the stock one when using the HTC charger so i'm pretty certain it's the cable.
roppetty said:
i've been using juiceplotter
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Battery Monitor Widget will do that, and more, including telling you whether it's charging AC or USB.
You can also check the charging type from Home Settings/About Phone/Battery/Battery Status.
I've got around 4 different micro-USB AC Adapters that I have lying around. One is the OEM Lenovo, One is OEM Samsung (i777 charger + Samsung Micro-USB cable), one is a multi-USB port AC adapter with a micro-usb cable, and the last is an iPad 2 wall charger with a micro-USB cable.
ALL of the chargers except the OEM Lenovo ones don't charge my tablet. When It's plugged in, for a couple of seconds it says Charging (AC), and then it just switches to discharging. I've tried all the aforementioned chargers and cables in different combinations, and the ONLY ones to work correctly is the Lenovo combo.
Is there a specific reason to this? Also tried all 4 cables connected to my PC.. They all don't charge efficiently at all.
look at the Voltage and Amperage of the adapter !
Lenovo use 2A if I remember well, the other use only 1A
quyTam is correct... most USB chargers are between 500mA and 850mA. The dual battery design of the tablets requires a min of 2A to charge correctly. This is why most computer USB ports will not charge the device.
However... the changer isn't the only thing restricting the power. The cable you are using can also effect power. Not all cables are created equal.
I stopped by Staples just after getting my tablet and picked up a 4 port 2.1A USB wall charger. It will charge my phone, Bluetooth, and tablet. There are also really nice 2A "extra battery" devices out there that allow you to a charged battery with you that will power and recharge your device.
I also recommend the dock for the tablet... it has a 65w power supply and charges the tablet in a 1/3 the time then the usb chargers.
where to get a charger
i tried 2Amp chargers....didn't help/
my brother says:
"the pins are slightly different/off/longer/shorter/what DID lenovo do here?"
as a safety i bought:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_kw=886605022780&_clu=2&_fcid=100&_fvi=1&_localstpos=&_stpos=&gbr=1
just in case...
it costs an arm and a leg for a microUSB charger, but not charging the device for a couple of days would cost me more :S
just another things that makes the TPT slightly less then perfect
o,O
Charger
I use a Dell Axim x51 charger and an LG cable from an old phone. Seems to work very well and eBay prices for the charger are less than $4.
http://rootzwiki.com/topic/8523-rev...arger/page__st__40__gopid__448194#entry448194
In my experience a 1A charger will also work. Nothing less than 1A will do anything.
I keep my Lenovo charger in my home office and use a 1A phone charger next to my bed for overnight charging.
I too have a 4 port mains to USB charger: 2A but I thought it was distributed to the 4 ports. If all were being used then each port would only be .5A.
Will have to try it out. If it works it would lighten the travel load of chargers.
Gottoon said:
quyTam is correct... most USB chargers are between 500mA and 850mA. The dual battery design of the tablets requires a min of 2A to charge correctly. This is why most computer USB ports will not charge the device.
However... the changer isn't the only thing restricting the power. The cable you are using can also effect power. Not all cables are created equal.
I stopped by Staples just after getting my tablet and picked up a 4 port 2.1A USB wall charger. It will charge my phone, Bluetooth, and tablet. There are also really nice 2A "extra battery" devices out there that allow you to a charged battery with you that will power and recharge your device.
I also recommend the dock for the tablet... it has a 65w power supply and charges the tablet in a 1/3 the time then the usb chargers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's for sure. I thought the dock was a waste of money until I forked out on Amazon. Saves so much time it isn't funny....
Sent from my Nexus S using xda premium
The tablet needs to see 5.3 V, when using >500mA.
Already thinner USB-Cables increase the voltage drop
so the thinkpad wont charge, even with the original charger.
It may have less to do with your charger than with the cables. I bought extra long (6 and 10 ft) USB cables for charging phone and my TPT. The 28AWG of any length won't charge the TPT. The 24AWG 6 ft and 10ft cable *will* on a 2A charger. I haven't tried other combinations. I believe it will charge on a 1A charger as well, but would likely require the larger 24AWG cable.
Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk
Design Flaw in Thinkpad Tablet prevents Landscape Mode Charging for Developers
I actually sent my 1838-22U in for service, thinking that there was a hardware problem preventing charging while connected via USB. At first I had noticed that while connected directly to a PC via USB for development purposes (no docking station), the unit indicated that it was charging. However, it seemed to be discharging faster than it was charging and slowly worked its way down to unusable. Lenovo Tech Support indicated that they had heard of this happening, and that I should send it in to have its system board replaced. I sent it in only to find that all they had done was replace the battery and reload the firmware. I did notice, however, that when I connected the USB cable, it appeared to go into charging mode for a couple of seconds then switch into discharge mode. I asked Tech Support about this and they said they this was actually the way it should have been behaving all along, and that this was by design.
The User Manual (see attachment) states only that it might not charge, and that it will only discharge if the tablet "exceeds USB 2.0 power limits" (i.e. 500ma).
Well, the Thinkpad Tablet seems to be pretty good at doing that.
Here's where I present to the development community a conundrum. How can one develop in landscape mode while charging (even slowly)? In portrait mode, one can use the accessory docking station, which uses its own charger and charges through the proprietary connector next to the micro USB port, while separately allowing the USB to be used for data. In landscape mode, there is no such option. I will accept that the unit may draw too much current to charge well via a 500ma USB data connection, but then Lenovo should provide a optional charger that connects directly to the same proprietary connector used by the docking station. This is done elsewhere. For instance, Motorola realizes that the Xoom draws too much current to charge via a USB data connection, so they don't even bother with it - they provide a dedicated charger connection and charger.
==UPDATE== 25-May-2012
SOLUTION FOUND
The solution to using a data connection and charging the Thinkpad Tablet at the same time, without relying on the portrait-mode-only Dock Station, is to connect through a powered USB hub which supports the USB Battery Charging Specification (with a Charging Downstream Port). The specification provides at least 1.5A, which quite handily satisfies the Thinkpad. I found such a hub, the GWCTech HU2V40, on Amazon for $15.99.
If you get this model, note that only one of the 4 ports can be used for high-current charging. It includes a tiny "Smart Charger Adapter" but which appears to block the data connection (at least when when used with the Thinkpad). In other words, ignore the little black passthrough adapter included with it, and plug directly in as you normally would. The instructions don't explain the purpose of the passthrough adapter.
Hi everyone!
I just wanted to ask this: I just bought a 90W charger for my laptop. It is a "Targus Compact Charger for laptop and usb tablet"
It charges my laptop and also has that usb port which charges through a cable, compatible devices. Only that on that usb port, it says that it charges 2.1A, which is a lot. My phone charger does only 550mAh.
So the question, shouldn't I charge my phone through the adapter?
Thanks in advance!
When ever I drive, I have my phone hooked up to my Escort Red Line radar detector and my car's stereo via bluetooth (both). In order for me to use the radar detector effective, I need to have GPS and Blueooth enabled. This is a HUGE SUPER OMG battery drainer for my amaze. 20 minutes drive kills about 35% of the phone's power. My radar detector offers a slot to charge my phone BUT it still drains, not enough juice flowing in. Someone said it is because it's probably a .5amp.
So I am running a extension from the 12v lighter that's in the trunk to the front of my car. Amazon has a generic 2.1amp for 3 bucks.
http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Heavy...121&sr=8-1&keywords=htc+amaze+car+charger+amp
But on ebay, I found the original HTC car charger for 15 bucks which is a 1amp.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HTC-Amaze-4...918506?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item27c867022a
What do you guys recommend? My logic says go for the 2.1amp, the phone will draw as much as it needs from it.
The 1amp.
Anything higher you'll damage the phone or the battery.
A wall plug power supply or a usb supply is 5.0v/1amp.
The 2.1 amp is probably 1 amp per port. Although it does not seem to specify.
F9zSlavik said:
What do you guys recommend? My logic says go for the 2.1amp, the phone will draw as much as it needs from it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right!:good:
---------- Post added at 09:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:41 AM ----------
soundping said:
The 1amp.
Anything higher you'll damage the phone or the battery.
A wall plug power supply or a usb supply is 5.0v/1amp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That means a higher capacity battery (more current NOT MORE VOLTAGE) will damage the phone?!!!!
Totally wrong!
A higher current will not damage the phone. A higher voltage will do it!
Please do not mix the current with voltage!
Voltage is same 5 Volts (±5%) for these “USB like” applications (1A or 2.1A power supply our case )They use USB socket/connector but usually only pin 1 and 4 (+ and-)
Regular computer USB port can supply max 0.5-0.9 A depending on version.
For battery charging devices the current can go to 5A.
Higher voltage will trip a warning window telling you to disconnect and use official HTC equipment.
The phone monitors input voltage to protect the equipment.
nyc_tdi said:
That means a higher capacity battery (more current NOT MORE VOLTAGE) will damage the phone?!!!!
Totally wrong!
A higher current will not damage the phone. A higher voltage will do it!
Please do not mix the current with voltage!
Voltage is same 5 Volts (±5%) for these “USB like” applications (1A or 2.1A power supply our case )They use USB socket/connector but usually only pin 1 and 4 (+ and-)
Regular computer USB port can supply max 0.5-0.9 A depending on version.
For battery charging devices the current can go to 5A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
and to add to that... unless you take the charger apart and short pins 2 and 3, it will only ever draw 500mA, as it assumes that it is hooked up to a regular powered USB port... I have bought multiple car charger usb adapters, and I have taken all of them apart and soldered the 2nd and 3rd pins together... otherwise charge time = forever, and sometimes it won't even charge if you have wifi or data/gps/bluetooth all going at once...
I recently got an Amaze and am generally happy with it. The biggest problem I have right now is finding the right car charger for it because the car charger I previously used (a 1A monoprice car charger) doesn't give it enough charge. I have been reading through the forums and some has been saying that if the charger is not working properly, it will recognize it as charging via USB rather than AC. In my case, the phone seems to be reading it as charging through AC, but there still doesn't seem to be enough current going through it. The phone will only charge if NOTHING is going on (i.e. screen's off, no GPS, etc.). I've been using CoPilot GPS and it draws the battery like crazy. Anyone has any idea as to which car charger would work properly with the Amaze such that I'll be able to charge (or at least maintain the charge) while using it as a GPS? Do I need to go up to a 2.1A charger?
I would look for a 4-5 star rated 2.1a car charger on Amazon.
Just read through the comments and feedback and you'll find one that's right for you.
I prefer the USB charger base itself and then using the OEM cable that came with the Amaze.
It seems to charge faster with that cable, at least to me anyway.
Remember though if it's rated 2.1a but has two USB slots that 2.1a will be cut in half if used to charge two different devices.
Hope this helps.
I couldve sworn we talked about this months ago. Let me see if I can find the thread.
nguyendqh said:
I would look for a 4-5 star rated 2.1a car charger on Amazon.
Just read through the comments and feedback and you'll find one that's right for you.
I prefer the USB charger base itself and then using the OEM cable that came with the Amaze.
It seems to charge faster with that cable, at least to me anyway.
Remember though if it's rated 2.1a but has two USB slots that 2.1a will be cut in half if used to charge two different devices.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you won't get the full 2.1a unless you usee a charge only cable or modify the charger as I stated above...
I ended up getting a 2.1A car charger and a USB charge only cable, and it's working perfectly. When I have the screen on full brightness and doing navigation with Co-Pilot GPS, my phone's no longer losing charge and is actually charging. The combo also works with my tablet as well.
blast0id said:
and to add to that... unless you take the charger apart and short pins 2 and 3, it will only ever draw 500mA, as it assumes that it is hooked up to a regular powered USB port... I have bought multiple car charger usb adapters, and I have taken all of them apart and soldered the 2nd and 3rd pins together... otherwise charge time = forever, and sometimes it won't even charge if you have wifi or data/gps/bluetooth all going at once...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is damn helpful! So THAT is why when driving and using gps or whatnot I would always lose more battery even on charger.. So basically I can just solder the middle 2 pins together to trick it into thinking it is being powered like a home charger? No chance it will hurt anything I assume?
Silentbtdeadly said:
This is damn helpful! So THAT is why when driving and using gps or whatnot I would always lose more battery even on charger.. So basically I can just solder the middle 2 pins together to trick it into thinking it is being powered like a home charger? No chance it will hurt anything I assume?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have done this to every single one of my USB car chargers... not a single issue...
I googled around for this and was surprised to not find any similar questions.
I have a lot of different microusb chargers (and microusb cables that can plug into usb wall chargers), coming from a lot of different sources. They have varying wattage and amp outputs as well.
Do phones and tablets have a maximum power that can be safely plugged into their microusb ports? I've never encountered any problems, but it's better to be sure. I've always gone off the assumption that if it comes with a microusb plug on the end, it's safe for my Android devices. But that may not be the case.
As long as the carger is about 5V and can push over 100mA (depends on phone requirements) it'll be fine. Even if you had a charger that could give 10 amps out, the phone won't take that much current. I measured my Samsung ATIV S taking about 460mA while charging and friend's Nokia Lumia 920 took 420mA while charging.
Custom kernel with charging settings and no data cable will give you best results
Send from my Synergyzed SPH-L900
Can I purchase the same exact cable that comes with N6 somewhere online? I want to be able to have an extra one for my car.
2014 SR5 Premium
Pretty certain its the same turbo charger they sell on Motorola.com, its like 35 bucks.
sfidelisrp said:
Pretty certain its the same turbo charger they sell on Motorola.com, its like 35 bucks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was looking for this, but it's out of stock. Any ideas who has this available.
http://www.motorola.com/us/accessories-batteries-chargers/USB-Data-Cable/usb-data-cable.html
2014 SR5 Premium
Don't know where you'd get that exact one but honestly if all you're looking for is the cable you can find micro USB cables almost anywhere. I bought two in Walgreen's for like 5 bucks a pop that I keep in my vehicles. They work perfect. Nothing special about buying over priced cables when they all do the exact same thing.
---------- Post added at 07:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:13 AM ----------
dinosaur1 said:
I was looking for this, but it's out of stock. Any ideas who has this available.
http://www.motorola.com/us/accessories-batteries-chargers/USB-Data-Cable/usb-data-cable.html
2014 SR5 Premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Above
Like the others have said. Any USB to Micro-USB cable would work just as well as another (unless the cable is faulty, which... well.... yea).
Isn't it more in the charger than the cable? Unless of course you're talking USB 3 of course.
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elementaldragon said:
Like the others have said. Any USB to Micro-USB cable would work just as well as another (unless the cable is faulty, which... well.... yea).
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I'm not quite following your ending statement.
2014 SR5 Premium
elementaldragon said:
Like the others have said. Any USB to Micro-USB cable would work just as well as another (unless the cable is faulty, which... well.... yea).
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Not true. Cable does matter. Some don't pass enough current. Some don't stay put.
Monoprice premium cables should be <$3 and quality seems good; no complaints here.
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=9965&seq=1&format=2
(black ones seem to be OOS)
daftlush said:
Not true. Cable does matter. Some don't pass enough current. Some don't stay put.
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dinosaur1 said:
I'm not quite following your ending statement.
2014 SR5 Premium
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Again... if it's a faulty cable. Only time I've ever seen a cable NOT work is if it was bent tightly too many times and split a wire in the casing, or as you said, if the connector itself was somehow flawed. Current supplied is a non-issue, because USB does not require a lot of current for anything. If it did, the wires would need to be thicker.
Just bought this to use with Incipio car turbo charger I bought earlier. I like coiled cables to use in the car: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DVMRXG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_75DBub1FSNSV2
This is my new favorite! I charges my N5 from 0% to 50 in 10 minutes! And I love the light on the plug so you can see when you plug it into the phone. I give this 6 out of 5 stars, specially with it being 6 foot long!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CWM989I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and for the car (although can't vouch for speed in the car charger) http://www.amazon.com/Rapid-Dual-Car-Charger-Micro/dp/B00GB8XIZO/ref=pd_bxgy_cps_img_y
What is a good charger that I can use at work?
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dinosaur1 said:
What is a good charger that I can use at work?
2014 SR5 Premium
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Look at my post above yours.
dinosaur1 said:
What is a good charger that I can use at work?
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The kick-ass 1.8A Blackberry Folding Blade Chargers... ~$5-6 each or 2 for ~$10.
Get a "Charge Only" cable. They deliver higher current to phone from charger than than data / charge cables. Amazon has them at reasonable price.
wtherrell said:
Get a "Charge Only" cable. They deliver higher current to phone from charger than than data / charge cables. Amazon has them at reasonable price.
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Link?
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http://www.verizonwireless.com/acce...er-with-fast-charge-technology-for-micro-usb/
Came across this today. I get 25% off so may be worth it for me.
I thought I'd jump in here and explain why there's so many inconsistent stories regarding cables. Here's the real deal:
Android determines whether a charger is a computer (USB) or a wall charger (AC) by the status of the data pins in the USB connector. In USB, there are 4 pins. The center two pins are data pins. The outer pins supply power and ground. If the central pins are shorted together electrically, then Android devices consider that a wall charger, and will attempt to charge at a higher amperage. If they're not, then the device assumes it's tied to a computer, and charges at 500mA (the power put out by a computer's USB 2.0 port). This is why some 2A chargers will show as "Charging (USB)" on the battery screen, instead of "Charging (AC)," which is what you want. ( I said attempt before, because connecting a cable where the data pins are shorted to a computer won't increase the 500mA that your computer is supplying. Thus, the device will TRY to charge faster, but won't, because it's limited by the computer.)
iOS uses a different method for determining AC/USB, so any charger designed for iOS devices will charge your Android device at 500mA, regardless of the rated power. (That's why some multi-port USB chargers, with a 1A and 2A port will often charge better with the 1A port -- the 2A port tends to be designed for iPads.) Along these lines, there are two types of "Charge Only" cables: Those where the central pins are shorted (Android-compatible), and those where the central pins are missing or disconnected (electrically, that's called "open," which is the opposite of "shorted" -- and these are iOS-Compatible). Thus, using a "Charge Only" cable, can actually be a bad thing. In fact, most "charge only" cables are of the "open" type. So, to say that you should get a "charge only" cable is wrong, more often than not.
Unfortunately, when you're purchasing cables or chargers, they almost never say "Android Compatible." Instead, look at what it DOES say. If it says it's iOS compatible, or that it's designed to charge any iOS device, then it definitely won't charge your Android device at more than 500mA. Stay away! Look for it to say it's designed to charge a specific Android device, like a Samsung S5, or a Droid Maxx, or whatever. Compatibility with ANY Android device, means compatibility with ALL Android devices. (Assuming it's still a micro-USB connector.)
Cables sold by themselves are almost always Data cables. Cables sold with chargers are almost always "charge only" cables, and you need to go by the charger compatibility to determine the cable compatibility. The real test is to find a charger/cable combination that will show up as "Charging (AC)" on the battery screen. The original OEM pair that came with the device is best for this. Once you have that pair of known Android-Compatible components, you can swap out the cable OR charger (ONLY ONE AT A TIME!), and test it to see if it still reads "Charging (AC)," or "Charging (USB)." If it's the latter, then that charger or cable was designed for iOS devices, and won't really be useful with your Android device. If it's the former, then it becomes a known compatible item for further testing.
In summary. The power rating of a charger means absolutely nothing. A 2A charger for iOS will charge much slower than an a 1A charger designed for Android. Don't rely on that. Instead, rely on the device that the charger was designed for. If it says it's designed to charge an Android device (any Android device), then select that over any charger that even so much as mentions an iOS device. Better yet, look for chargers that support the Qualcomm Quick Charge 2.0 standard. That's the same as Moto's "Turbo Charger," and since that's an Android thing, it's guaranteed to be Android compatible, and much faster at charging your N6.
jt3 said:
I thought I'd jump in here and explain why there's so many inconsistent stories regarding cables. Here's the real deal:
Android determines whether a charger is a computer (USB) or a wall charger (AC) by the status of the data pins in the USB connector. In USB, there are 4 pins. The center two pins are data pins. The outer pins supply power and ground. If the central pins are shorted together electrically, then Android devices consider that a wall charger, and will attempt to charge at a higher amperage. If they're not, then the device assumes it's tied to a computer, and charges at 500mA (the power put out by a computer's USB 2.0 port). This is why some 2A chargers will show as "Charging (USB)" on the battery screen, instead of "Charging (AC)," which is what you want. ( I said attempt before, because connecting a cable where the data pins are shorted to a computer won't increase the 500mA that your computer is supplying. Thus, the device will TRY to charge faster, but won't, because it's limited by the computer.)
iOS uses a different method for determining AC/USB, so any charger designed for iOS devices will charge your Android device at 500mA, regardless of the rated power. (That's why some multi-port USB chargers, with a 1A and 2A port will often charge better with the 1A port -- the 2A port tends to be designed for iPads.) Along these lines, there are two types of "Charge Only" cables: Those where the central pins are shorted (Android-compatible), and those where the central pins are missing or disconnected (electrically, that's called "open," which is the opposite of "shorted" -- and these are iOS-Compatible). Thus, using a "Charge Only" cable, can actually be a bad thing. In fact, most "charge only" cables are of the "open" type. So, to say that you should get a "charge only" cable is wrong, more often than not.
Unfortunately, when you're purchasing cables or chargers, they almost never say "Android Compatible." Instead, look at what it DOES say. If it says it's iOS compatible, or that it's designed to charge any iOS device, then it definitely won't charge your Android device at more than 500mA. Stay away! Look for it to say it's designed to charge a specific Android device, like a Samsung S5, or a Droid Maxx, or whatever. Compatibility with ANY Android device, means compatibility with ALL Android devices. (Assuming it's still a micro-USB connector.)
Cables sold by themselves are almost always Data cables. Cables sold with chargers are almost always "charge only" cables, and you need to go by the charger compatibility to determine the cable compatibility. The real test is to find a charger/cable combination that will show up as "Charging (AC)" on the battery screen. The original OEM pair that came with the device is best for this. Once you have that pair of known Android-Compatible components, you can swap out the cable OR charger (ONLY ONE AT A TIME!), and test it to see if it still reads "Charging (AC)," or "Charging (USB)." If it's the latter, then that charger or cable was designed for iOS devices, and won't really be useful with your Android device. If it's the former, then it becomes a known compatible item for further testing.
In summary. The power rating of a charger means absolutely nothing. A 2A charger for iOS will charge much slower than an a 1A charger designed for Android. Don't rely on that. Instead, rely on the device that the charger was designed for. If it says it's designed to charge an Android device (any Android device), then select that over any charger that even so much as mentions an iOS device. Better yet, look for chargers that support the Qualcomm Quick Charge 2.0 standard. That's the same as Moto's "Turbo Charger," and since that's an Android thing, it's guaranteed to be Android compatible, and much faster at charging your N6.
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FYI. I ordered this and tried it today. Works like a charm in my vehicles built in USB port. Originally the USB by itself wouldn't charge.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GC4AJOU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1416764690&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
I was going to pick this up which has the fastest charge using a 12v.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P9UILUM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1416764884&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Does anyone how much slower the USB adapter would charge vs the Powermod?