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Hey guys,
I was wondering if these USB car chargers are compatible for the TP2?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Dual-2-Ports-US...Accessories?hash=item518f99b7a9#ht_3242wt_958
and
http://cgi.ebay.com/DC-Car-Cigarett...wItemQQptZPDA_Accessories?hash=item3a567814a2
and
http://cgi.ebay.com/Silver-Mini-Uni...Accessories?hash=item414bbc871c#ht_2000wt_958
I'm asking because I remember in the past I used a HTC charger to charge the O2 XDA Flame and it charged. However, the phone started acting VERY weird and freeze a lot. I ended up having to hard reset it
Thanks!
I think any USB charger for electronic gaget that has a output of 5.0 v should work. It does not matter if it is an AC charger or and car lighter charger. I got one of these AC and another car lighter charger. There are all 5.0 v output. I use them to charge Ipod and phones.
chompx2 said:
I think any USB charger for electronic gaget that has a output of 5.0 v should work. It does not matter if it is an AC charger or and car lighter charger. I got one of these AC and another car lighter charger. There are all 5.0 v output. I use them to charge Ipod and phones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you
It's best to choose one that can supply enough current (I think the wall charger supplies 2A, but 1A should be ok). Some devices will still trickle charge with a lower current, but others just won't trigger the charging circuits at all.
I had a cheap car charger that seemed to work ok most of the time, but it got worryingly hot after a while.
My TP2 came with an official HTC charger, so I use that now and it's great.
I have noticed that if the phone is OFF then 1A is not enough and usually stops charging but if the phone is ON it completes the charge..but takes for ever.
Has anyone experienced the charging overheat situation where the led flashes orange and green? I dont know if that is the situation but it only happens when I am charging in the car and the unit gets hot.
My old "OEM HTC" charger I got on ebay (the one with the blue HTC light) just stopped charging my phone after about 10-15 uses.
It lights on (charger), but my phone doesn't catch any charge lol
I got a 1A one, and unfortunately it cannot produce enough juice when running the GPS (copilot), after a while the phone shows a message telling the charge current is not enough.
The wall charger that came with the original box is 1A too, thus the problem might be with the cheap car charger.
Brando sells a 2A car adapter that should do the trick. They're out of stock right now, but it may be worth a look.
Hey!
Mine is a cheapo but does the trick. Charges the phone with satnav running, today went from 23% to full in less than 3 hours. Plus it's really tiny so I can keep my ashtray closed all the time. Using it with mini retractable cable, it all fits in the ashtray and it's handy to use.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Micro-Nano-Ti...daptors_SM?hash=item5638c26773#ht_1747wt_1165
3waygeek said:
Brando sells a 2A car adapter that should do the trick. They're out of stock right now, but it may be worth a look.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The manual states that the output of the AC charger is 5.0 volts and 1 amp. That means the output of the DC/car charger should be the same. Using a 2 amp current might be charging the device faster but it would probably generate more heat and might shorten the battery life.
one tip, regardless of which charger you end up with, is to not leave the phone plugged in while starting the car. my understanding is that there can be be large voltage surges or fluctuations during the startup. depending on the design on the voltage converter inside the charger, some of that may be making it through to the phone.
i once had a AA NiCd battery smart charger that went wonky after using it in the car a lot, but that was with a straight-through 12V car to charger connector.
I made my own charger for using as a GPS on my motorcycles.
There is a charge select line in the plug. If the phone detects that it is connected to a USB port, the phone will not 'pull' more the 500ma. If that line is set to indicate a non USB port, then the phone will pull 1 amp. MAX (I never saw more then 900ma myself).
If you have the wrong charge plug, it may only charge at 500ma. If you have the correct plug and the charger can manage 5 amps, the phone will still only take 1 amp max.
For a while I used the phone in a waterproof box called an Aquabox. It would overheat during charging. I now only charge the phone when it is not in an enclosed hot space.
I'm still using the off-brand 'for Blackberry' car charger I got back when I had my Kaiser. Seems to be working just fine with this phone as well.
When I plug into the wall or use a power inverter in my car, it says "charging AC" and charges quicker. Although if I use a car USB dongle charger, it goes into "charging USB" mode and unfortunately, charges much slower. This really ticks me off as I just picked up a rapid charging 2.1amp(2100mA) USB car dongle.
Is there a way to tell the phone to charge as AC instead of USB? Or at least an app/widget that will change it?
voxigenboy said:
When I plug into the wall or use a power inverter in my car, it says "charging AC" and charges quicker. Although if I use a car USB dongle charger, it goes into "charging USB" mode and unfortunately, charges much slower. This really ticks me off as I just picked up a rapid charging 2.1amp(2100mA) USB car dongle.
Is there a way to tell the phone to charge as AC instead of USB? Or at least an app/widget that will change it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
max current in the USB spec is between 500 and 900 mA depending on version. Congrats, you got scammed. Take it back.
Edit: Correction, there has been a modification to the spec to allow, ostensibly, mobile devices to draw greater power when charging. The device may draw up to 1800mA when connected as a Dedicated Charging Port which disallows data transfer in this mode. Two things to note about this. First, the HTC supplied AC-to-USB adapter lists a 1000mA (1A) current output, and your users manual (you did read the manual, right?) specifies you should only use this charger with your phone. Second, despite the fact that I am not even sure you would want the phone to take 1800mA, when it's designed to charge with 1000mA, your "rapid charging" device is STILL over-specced by ~14%. Not a gamble I personally would be willing to take.
Good luck.
Edit 2: To answer your original question, no, you cannot fix this in software. The dedicated charging mode is triggered by shorting the d+ and d- data contacts. If your USB dongle doesn't do this, then the phone will never, ever be able to recognize it as a dedicated charging port and you will only get 900mA charging current at 5V per the standard USB spec.
punman said:
Edit 2: To answer your original question, no, you cannot fix this in software. The dedicated charging mode is triggered by shorting the d+ and d- data contacts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, this seemed to be the final answer for giving the Desire enough juice to charge in a car while running nav. I don't plan on using nav a lot in my daily routine, but it would be nice to have a safe, effective answer to getting an "AC Charge" in a car. I saw the picture of voxigen's 12v port -> inverter -> AC USB adapter setup, but I don't have that much room around my 12v port in my car lol.
Apsalus said:
Yeah, this seemed to be the final answer for giving the Desire enough juice to charge in a car while running nav. I don't plan on using nav a lot in my daily routine, but it would be nice to have a safe, effective answer to getting an "AC Charge" in a car. I saw the picture of voxigen's 12v port -> inverter -> AC USB adapter setup, but I don't have that much room around my 12v port in my car lol.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i wouldn't mind continuing to use that inverter(aside from occasionally hitting my knee on it), just the downside to it is that whenever i'm playing music from my phone -> stereo, there'll be this weird buzzing/hissing sound in between tracks/when a song is paused, but while a song is playing it goes away... and it does not do that when i plug in through that usb charging dongle.
Has anyone noticed that phone does not charge while using GPS. The charging indicator is on but when I look at the stats it says discharging at -450 mAh. Is this the way it is and if so, is there a fix? 1 hr 42 m with 73% display on battery use and 43% charge remaining, but was plugged in the entire time while driving under an hour home. I am using the same Motorola high performance charger that every other phone is charged fully even when using GPS.
are you absolutely sure the charger is giving the full 1A?
What sensor app are you using to see the battery discharging?
Mine charges normally with gps on.
Sent from my HTC
LTE 4G Rezound
I was curious so I tested this with "Battery Monitor" I have it plugged into my laptop currently which only gives +500mA. and not the +1A that you get from a wall/car/high power usb port.
the app is showing +257mA with GPS on and functioning normally.
So charging good here... Might be something with your motorola charger? It could have a sensor in it to detect 'trickle charging mode' that is improperly engaging when connected to the HTC causing the charger to put out a minimal 'sustain only' level of amperage.
good luck!
you need a charger putting out 1A ... most car chargers put out 500mA so find a good one off monoprice
Here's what I'm doing. I have a Belkin 2.1A(2100mAh) USB car charger dongle. The problem is, once i connect the USB cable to it the phone registers it as "Charging USB" and does notcharge anywhere near as fast(power-wise) as if the phone was registering it "Charging AC". I'm not keen on using a power inverter to get the full AC charge so instead i am going to go pick up a cheap micro USB cable, splice it open, then disconnect the data wires(green & white ones) & then tape it back up. By disconnecting the data wires, the phone will no longer think it's a USB connection and then charge via AC, getting the best charge possible.
that should work ^ if thats the problem
I've found that using the included USB cable with a Belkin dual port USB car charger allows the phone to charge as if it were plugged in to a wall. I'm guessing the included cable has a different layout than standard Micro USB cables.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using xda premium
dawynkoop said:
I've found that using the included USB cable with a Belkin dual port USB car charger allows the phone to charge as if it were plugged in to a wall. I'm guessing the included cable has a different layout than standard Micro USB cables.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using xda premium
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Click to collapse
I'm guessing that I have the same belkin dual port (2.1amp and 1amp ports) and the best I've seen out of it is about 250mah charging. This is using the supplied usb/micro hdmi whatever cord for the phone.
I have seen discharge rates off the charger of 750mah which is the highest I've seen on any phone. I'm guessing if you are using the nav on your phone with the screen on, it will probably still be using battery while plugged in.
thatsricci said:
I was curious so I tested this with "Battery Monitor" I have it plugged into my laptop currently which only gives +500mA. and not the +1A that you get from a wall/car/high power usb port.
the app is showing +257mA with GPS on and functioning normally.
So charging good here... Might be something with your motorola charger? It could have a sensor in it to detect 'trickle charging mode' that is improperly engaging when connected to the HTC causing the charger to put out a minimal 'sustain only' level of amperage.
good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Possible, but says AC charging in Battery Monitor widget. I will post a few pics.
Here are a few Pics. you can see a couple of things.
-Charger rated at 950 MA out. and no other phone I have owned lost a charge while driving including TBolt, Charge, Bionic.
-Shows as AC charging
- Spikes of good charging detected
Put on Normal power mode today on the way in. live wallpapers did not wrok, just flickered. 3G on vice 4G. Battery still went down, but above 90% on 40 minute drive in. Screen low but on. Bluetooth speaker.
Maybe it is the iBolt car mount. See review online. will try without dock this afternoon on my way home.
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User: marc frederick, Nov 25, 2011
Pros: Options for different backs
Cons: Does not charge the phone while it is in use
Try playing pandora when the phone is 100 charged. After 45 minutes on the car mount (and yes it is plugged into a charger and all indicatros show it is charging) and the charge level is 84. Using the same charger but plugged into the phone, playing Pandora for 45 min starting charge level 68. Ending charge level is 100.
Yeah, something is telling that charger to not give you full juice
Rezound
ok, drove home off the window mount and just on charger, all same except full brightness on screen.40 minute drive. came up 7% battery vice down from 100 to 43%. nedd a few trials to confirm, but looks like window mount is throttleing juice.
thatsricci said:
are you absolutely sure the charger is giving the full 1A?
What sensor app are you using to see the battery discharging?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have seen spurts up to 913 with GPS off and screen just turned on. Using battery monitor widget. Not on window mount, just charger.
I can confirm. The car dock will not charge your phone atleast not with the screen on and nothing else running but battery monitor widget.
I bought one and tested it extensively yesterday. I used a Verizon 1a charger and a generic 1a charger. With the dock and both chargerz the phone DIScharged(as in LOST battery power) at between 100ma and 200ma. Without the dock using the same chargers and changing nothing on the phone the phone charged at between 50a and 300ma.
I did the test several times to eliminate any random things the phone may have been doing in the background.
After doing that controlled test I played with it some more and no matter what I did I could not get a positive charge with the dock attached even in airplane mode with the screen backlight at minimum. Without the dock using the same chargers i ran Pandora and a police scanner both outputting through the phone speaker, gps, wifi, mobile all on, and screen on auto and still had a very small positive charge.
Moral of the story DO NOT BUY THIS DOCK unless you dont mind it just being a piece of plastic that holds your phone in place.
I wonder if there's a quick mod to it to get it working right. Like the soldering of the USB chargers I've seen.
Rezound
I just went ahead and bought an extra battery so I wouldn't have to charge in the car. Only takes 20 seconds to pop in a new battery.
Can charge both batts while I sleep at night.
Sent from my Galaxy Tab 10.1
I was looking for a high current charger for my Android tablet and there was a review that talked about compatibility. Some of the high cap chargers appear to be designed for Apple products and the pin wiring is subtly different. So, on some non-Apple products, the charge is only recognized as a lower power, 500mah charger and the users reported that some devices would normally charge and others would not. Some of the dual port charges also split the power. The 2.1 amp port and the 1 amp port cannot be used at the same time, depending on what is plugged into them. This was also brand specific. I ordered the Amazon Basics 2.1 amp dual charger and will see how that works. I have noticed a difference in charge rates between my Motorola charger left over from the Blackberry and the Verizon OEM one. The VZW one is faster.
I do the same thing I have been doing since my Windows phone days.
I use the AC cord plugged into a 12v to AC adaptor(screen set to 100% bright and no timeout).
I drove 6 hours last week ruuning Google Maps/GPS & my battery was 100% charged when I got to my destination.
~John
Has anyone found a portable Battery pack that we can use on the TF? I have several that I have used for my iPhone and my old iPad2 but all are only 5v. is there one out there that can charge out TF or is the keyboard dock the only way to go for extra Battery?
There are several battery packs used for notebook computers that will work listed on Amazon. Just be sure they have a 12Volt output. EverReady had as battery pack that will also work but you will need an adapter provided by them. The key is that you need an output of 12 to 15 volts to charge the TF or Keyboard. You might read Devcake's post on a DIY charger for the TF as information on the voltages required to charge the TF. There is also a post on external batteries that might help.
hshoem1
By chance do you have a link to the EverReady battery pack? I would like to see it
hshoem1 said:
There are several battery packs used for notebook computers that will work listed on Amazon. Just be sure they have a 12Volt output. EverReady had as battery pack that will also work but you will need an adapter provided by them. The key is that you need an output of 12 to 15 volts to charge the TF or Keyboard. You might read Devcake's post on a DIY charger for the TF as information on the voltages required to charge the TF. There is also a post on external batteries that might help.
hshoem1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have an XP8000 from Energizer, and work perfectly.
w w w.energizerpowerpacks.com/us/products/xp8000/
You will need a conector for Asus (Willy cable WI15) from them. You will have two free tips a year for the life of product
By any chance do you know the tip number?
The cable you note doesn't appear to connect directly to the Transformer.
What setup are you using to connect to the Transformer?
Thanks
steve
The cable it's a Female USB with 16V output. You need the Asus cable.
xp8000
I looked in the web site and it is expensiver than Asus keyboard!
alberteske said:
I looked in the web site and it is expensiver than Asus keyboard!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
May as well get the keyboard then xD. Thats the whole point of it being a transformer anyways
RojoNinja said:
May as well get the keyboard then xD. Thats the whole point of it being a transformer anyways
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Or get both, even better
I just saw this while I'm looking for a battery pack.
On a german page I found this interesting:
w w w.intecro.de/XTPower-MP-16000-Powerbank-mobiler-Akku-mit-16000mAh-fuer-Laptop-Handy-iPhone-iPod-iPad-PDA-MP3-Player-mit-20-Adaptern
(can'f find an english page for this product)
Could I use this one by using an adapter?
I just got an Anker Astro3 10000mAh battery pack. I plan to use it while camping this summer, mainly to charge a phone, but occasionally to charge my tablet.
It is intended to charge 5V USB devices, and has two USB ports. It also has a 12 volt port. The adapters for the 12 volt port, of course, do not work with USB or the Transformer. So I made an adapter, and I am good to go now for charging the tablet.
The battery pack charges from a 12 volt wall charger. I have also made an adapter to charge it from the 12 volts on my motorcycle. So I will be charging it from the motorcycle during the day when riding, then using it to charge my devices in the evening at the camp. I've already tried it a couple of times, and it worked well.
I tried to charge the battery pack using a solar panel, but the solar panel was far too wimpy. It was like trying to run a house air conditioner from a penlight battery. It may make you feel good to try it, but it isn't going to do much.
So far so good. This is very close to what I need.
The issues I have had to work around are:
1) I want to also charge an in helmet bluetooth intercom from the USB port. But the charge current is so low, the battery pack auto powers off, thinking nothing is plugged in. Not a big deal because I can plug in my phone at the same time. That keeps it turned on until everything is charged, then it auto shuts down.
2) When I charge the Asus Tablet, it doesn't appear to auto shut down. Just the opposite of #1, it looks like the load stays high enough to never shut down when charging the tablet. This may not really be true, as I have only tried it a couple of times. Also, it isn't good for much more then one and a half charges of the tablet, as expected.
3) You need to figure out your own harness to get the 12 volts to the tablet.
4) No charge cable for a car. I mean this is rated for an input of like 10 to 15 volts, or some such. This thing is GREAT for charging portable devices. Charging it from a car is as simple as a cable, but there isn't one.
Over all this charger is a winner. At right around $55 US, I recommend it, if you can fabricate a plug for charging the Transformer.
Try a 12V UPS type battery along with a 2A fuse and adapters. It only costs about $20 or so. Plan on using only 50% of its capacity and recharge often to get the most life out of it.
Someone posted this product on another post
http://www.sobuying.com/products/Solar-Charger-For-Notebook,-Ipad,-tablet-pc,-Cell-phone,-MP3,-Laptop-11200mAh.html
May suit your needs
NiHaoMike said:
Try a 12V UPS type battery along with a 2A fuse and adapters. It only costs about $20 or so. Plan on using only 50% of its capacity and recharge often to get the most life out of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For me, this is actually what I use now. But it has issues.
One is simply that it is large. I carry it in the trailer that I tow behind the motorcycle, so it is OK, but a bit too large and heavy. It is a gel cell that has about a 48 WattHr capacity. LiIon has a a lot less and weight. In this case, it has about the same capacity, in a very small light weight package.
The other problem is charging the lead acid battery is an issue. I need to carry a AC charger and find AC when camping. I put a diode/resistor combo in the trailer and tapped off of the taillights. but by the time the weak motorcycle voltage gets to the taillights, add in the diode and other losses, and I'm lucky to see 13 volts at the battery. Not enough to charge it very well. The LiIon pack I use has the supply built in to charge properly from +12.
So I've tossed the lead brick battery (literally) and upgraded to a portable LiIon pack. So far so good.
This is what I use "Portable 12V DC USB 5V Rechargeable Lithium Li-ion Battery Pack for CCTV Camera" search on ebay, you can get one up to 13AH
I got a 3.8AH version for $16 , Dimension: 9.2cm X 6.0cm X 3.0cm
Outout rated 5V (5.8AH) and 12.8V (3.8AH)
small modification because the charger is NON-US wall plug, I just pull the plug pin out and add in a regular power cord cut off from an old appliance
Keep the USB plug for 5V use, cut the 12V DC cable and connect it to a female USB cable (pin 1 and pin 4) , then you can plug in the Asus usb/charge cable directly and charge or power the Asus
...
Are all USB car chargers like this? Can I prevent this by getting a higher quality charger? When I'm not using maps or navigation (or turn off the screen for a while), then it'll slowly charge back up.
fungosaurus said:
Are all USB car chargers like this? Can I prevent this by getting a higher quality charger? When I'm not using maps or navigation (or turn off the screen for a while), then it'll slowly charge back up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
GPS is usually a big energy hog. How many amps is your car charger?
You should be able to get away with a higher amperage charger, but the trade off may be reduced battery life.
fungosaurus said:
Are all USB car chargers like this? Can I prevent this by getting a higher quality charger? When I'm not using maps or navigation (or turn off the screen for a while), then it'll slowly charge back up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How fast does it discharge? I just went on an out of state trip last week and had gps on with the charger plugged in for several hours at a time. I didn't pay attention to the actual charge numbers, but it either discharges very gradually or charges very gradually. I could probably run it all day with the charger and gps without a problem. I don't recall the amp output of my car charger, but it is one of the cheap foreign models.
fungosaurus said:
Are all USB car chargers like this? Can I prevent this by getting a higher quality charger? When I'm not using maps or navigation (or turn off the screen for a while), then it'll slowly charge back up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Reflash your ROM, dude. I had that problem on one of my initial GB ROM's where I had bad drain using GPS while charging in my car. I redownloaded and wiped everything and reflashed the ROM and everything was good.
Sent from my SGH-I777 using XDA
If you are running a custom ROM, you can use SetCPU (or any other CPU clock control app that allows profiles) to set max of 800MHz when plugged in. This should at least get you to even charge/discharge levels when plugged in and running GPS while driving. Probably will depend on your screen brightness.
I don't run GPS long term very often right now, but I was for a while and FWIW, I was able to stream pandora, run google maps with screen on, not have any lag, and get a slow charge from my car charger by limiting clock speed to 800MHz.
Your other option (and what I usually do) is turn off the screen during longer sections of GPS nav with no turns (like sections of highway). You'll still get audible notifications for the next turn/maneuver/interchange/whatever, and you can turn the display on then if you need visual along with audio nav. The phone shouldn't have any problem charging and running GPS with the screen off...
fungosaurus said:
Are all USB car chargers like this? Can I prevent this by getting a higher quality charger? When I'm not using maps or navigation (or turn off the screen for a while), then it'll slowly charge back up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not all USB car chargers are alike. You need two things:
1. The car charger outputs higher current than 500ma. You need at least 700ma.
2. The charger is wired correctly to be recognized by phone as AC charger instead of PC USB port so that the phone will actually draw more than 500ma for charging. You can go to phone's status page to read what charge mode it is using.
Most iDevice chargers will not meet #2.
I have a stock Samsung car charger and it charges my phone while using Google Nav.
Thanks for the tips guys.
My phone discharges at around 1% every 20 minutes or so. I've been doing things like turning the screen off during periods of downtime to help with this (actually charges when I do this).
I'm using cheapy car adapter actually that has two usb ports and 2 cigarette ports in it and I use that with a samsung branded usb cable.
Hm yeah I'll try and see if limiting the CPU will help and if it does perhaps I'll just do that from now on.
foxbat121 said:
2. The charger is wired correctly to be recognized by phone as AC charger instead of PC USB port so that the phone will actually draw more than 500ma for charging. You can go to phone's status page to read what charge mode it is using.
Most iDevice chargers will not meet #2.
I have a stock Samsung car charger and it charges my phone while using Google Nav.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you know of any other options that are wired correctly to draw more than 500ma? I think I did hear from somewhere that charging via usb is considerably slower than when using the wall charger. Do you know of any other options that would fulfill this requirement besides getting the stock Samsung car charger? Also I assume just finding a higher amp charger wouldn't work if the phone detects it as a usb charger instead of an AC charger?
fungosaurus said:
Do you know of any other options that are wired correctly to draw more than 500ma? I think I did hear from somewhere that charging via usb is considerably slower than when using the wall charger. Do you know of any other options that would fulfill this requirement besides getting the stock Samsung car charger? Also I assume just finding a higher amp charger wouldn't work if the phone detects it as a usb charger instead of an AC charger?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The correctly wired charger will typically short the USB data PINs. iPhone charges and most generic car chargers with UBS ports don't do that. Most HTC chargers and Motorola chargers will work on Samsung phones. You need take a look at your car charger to see how much amps it can supply (listed on the spec label). The PC usb can only output 500ma max per spec. It is not enough to charge the phone while keep the screen on, GPS running and 3G connection active. Your Samsung OEM wall charger is rated 700ma. So, you need a car charger that outputs at least 700ma.
You then need to verify from the phone that the particular charger is recorgnized by the phone as AC charger. Without that, the phone will only draw 500ma max.