There were some discussions at the old Omate forum, but no confirmation on the actual specification for the back-plate and SIM screws.
As the threads are very easy to wear-out, it is not unreasonable to have to replace them every time opening the cover.
The screws seem to be difficult to find. It may be possible to get them at an Optican. Other than that, they can be ordered from something like aliexpress. The screws are normally in lots of 100 to 1000 pieces. While the cost for each screw is low, Fedex cost many times the package cost. So it is good to have the specifications confirmed early, so China Air Mail can be used.
With dimensions and a supply settled, there may be unofficial "national distribution centers".
I have a de-threaded back-plate screw and have assumed some data below
Dimension: (M1.4)
Pitch: (0.3mm (coarse, 0.2 is fine but unusual)) (There seem to be 9 threads on 3mm, so 0.3mm seem reasonable)
Back Length: 3mm
SIM length: 2 mm
Head size: 2 mm
Holes are about .5mm longer than screws and 2.1mm diameter
Quality: "Soft" (not stainless/titanium, to decrease risk that housing threading is damaged) Nickelplated OK?
I found a couple of suppliers. Those with best fit seem to have 2.5mm head. It should be possible to adjust head and length...
Cost is $6 for 200 pieces, shipping with air-mail about the same.
gerhardo said:
There were some discussions at the old Omate forum, but no confirmation on the actual specification for the back-plate and SIM screws.
As the threads are very easy to wear-out, it is not unreasonable to have to replace them every time opening the cover.
The screws seem to be difficult to find. It may be possible to get them at an Optican. Other than that, they can be ordered from something like aliexpress. The screws are normally in lots of 100 to 1000 pieces. While the cost for each screw is low, Fedex cost many times the package cost. So it is good to have the specifications confirmed early, so China Air Mail can be used.
With dimensions and a supply settled, there may be unofficial "national distribution centers".
I have a de-threaded back-plate screw and have assumed some data below
Dimension: (M1.4)
Pitch: (0.3mm (coarse, 0.2 is fine but unusual)) (There seem to be 9 threads on 3mm, so 0.3mm seem reasonable)
Back Length: 3mm
SIM length: 2 mm
Head size: 2 mm
Holes are about .5mm longer than screws and 2.1mm diameter
Quality: "Soft" (not stainless/titanium, to decrease risk that housing threading is damaged) Nickelplated OK?
I found a couple of suppliers. Those with best fit seem to have 2.5mm head. It should be possible to adjust head and length...
Cost is $6 for 200 pieces, shipping with air-mail about the same.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great info. I am needing some new back plate screws. Would you mind posting the link to the online supplier?
kp12584 said:
Great info. I am needing some new back plate screws. Would you mind posting the link to the online supplier?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do not think xda rules allows posting of direct links.
I got the screws from ebay, seller bohwu, 50 pieces. Fast and cheap.
Just search for "m1.4x4" to find more suppliers.
But it would be interesting f someone finds a good supplier for 2mm heads.
As the heads are not perfectly round after adjusting, it would be good if someone found a supplier.
All sources I found on ebay and those I looked at aliexpress either listed 2.5mm heads or had no size and a picture indicating more than 2mm.
Can you guys confirm the screws the back cover and sim card slot use then? I need to get some spare as you said the heads get easily damaged. I can't even get my backcover off! To prevent damaging the head I've just ordered a proper screw driver as the supplied one is rubbish. Have only managed to take the sim card cover off. The backplate is put on too tight.
Get the back cover off somehow, drilling the heads off the cheap screws it was assembled with if necessary, then replace the screws with the spares that came in the same little bag as the crappy screwdriver-like-object. They are better quality, but be sure you only touch them with a good ph000 driver.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Related
Need HELP as I have lost screws on both sides of BA. Can I use such other screws as eyeglasses' than BA's genuine screws, which are hard to find in my country?, and which size of screw is best fit with BA's?
i cannot tell for sure, which screws you are missing and what screws you want to take as a generic replacement, but a suggestion:
here you'll find the official htc blueangel service manual:
http://printer1.blogspot.com/2009/03/htc-blue-angel-service-manual.html
on page 53 there is a spare part list, also containing the measurements and names of the screws, googling them or asking in a local hardware store might help you.
plus, as probably by the names you don't know if those are the specific ones you're missing, refer to page 57/58, where you find photos of the screws.
Many thanks.
They are exactly what appear in last picture of page 26 i.e. 2 screws on the side of units
I've tried to map with picture frame in page 58, but not sure between these 2, which are:
Frame#28 (P/N: 72H00642-00M = SCREW,M1.6*3,Flat-sinkheadwithTorxrecess,H)
Frame#33 (P/N: 72H00441-00M = SCREW,TORX,FLAT,M1.6X4.5mm,BLACK,Pb-FREE)
And if I want to find the substituted screws, how can I explain their size to the store? For example, how to read the size of 'M1.6*3mm'? Please advise.
i can't tell you exactly, which one it is, although now i know which ones you were referring to. i think it is #28, because of the sinking head and the color, all the device's internal screws are black but those are silverish.
in case it is #28:
72H00642-00M is the HTC part number, that can become expensive ordering from them.
if you want to contact a local retailer, the rest of the information is relevant, you look for a torx screw, with a sinkhead and the metric measurements M1.6X3mm, meaning, without the head, the screw has a diameter of 1.6mm and is 3mm long.
maybe you should check electronics shops, computer shops, maybe handicrafts shops for that, and when you found a retailer having that general kind of screws, test them.
the only difference between the 2 types of screws you posted, is the length and the type of head, and i think you can simply try it out. try the longer one first, if it doesn't go in, take the shorter one. easy thing.
good luck with that.
Chef_Tony
cyberbank said:
They are exactly what appear in last picture of page 26 i.e. 2 screws on the side of units
I've tried to map with picture frame in page 58, but not sure between these 2, which are:
Frame#28 (P/N: 72H00642-00M = SCREW,M1.6*3,Flat-sinkheadwithTorxrecess,H)
Frame#33 (P/N: 72H00441-00M = SCREW,TORX,FLAT,M1.6X4.5mm,BLACK,Pb-FREE)
And if I want to find the substituted screws, how can I explain their size to the store? For example, how to read the size of 'M1.6*3mm'? Please advise.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will be 1.6 dia by 3mm long. I lost those screws over 2 years ago and have never replaced them, phone has not fallen apart and still works fine!
shaper said:
Will be 1.6 dia by 3mm long. I lost those screws over 2 years ago and have never replaced them, phone has not fallen apart and still works fine!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
same here. it seems a little bit shaky though.
so I just have to look for a screw with 1.6mm diameter and 3mm long?
alphadeeto said:
same here. it seems a little bit shaky though.
so I just have to look for a screw with 1.6mm diameter and 3mm long?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes and if at all possible, avoid torch type screws (at least I think that's what they are called), which are the ones that require a start headed screw driver (not talking about phillips)
shaper said:
Will be 1.6 dia by 3mm long. I lost those screws over 2 years ago and have never replaced them, phone has not fallen apart and still works fine!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you are lucky my friend..
my phone fell to the floor once, and started hard reseting by itself from time to time, took it to a shop for fix and the guy lost this 2 screws and my phone ended useless reseting again and again, but because of this, found that the problem was in the case so i super glued the area were the case was loose because of this 2 screws and phone started working again.
i bought a cdma BA for parts but the screws are not the same (or this technic guy broke the tread) so it have no screws on the side, and after superglue no auto hard resete.
It's definitely the m1.6x3 torx sinkhead; you need a T5 screwdriver.
Of course you can also use other screws- e.g. crossrecess-
but i think torx look the best.
Following eBay-item contains a sheet which shows the meaning
of m1.6x3
http://www.ebay.de/itm/25-Stuck-M1-...124201386?pt=RC_Modellbau&hash=item53d91339aa
what he says
B-44 said:
It's definitely the m1.6x3 torx sinkhead; you need a T5 screwdriver.
Of course you can also use other screws- e.g. crossrecess-
but i think torx look the best.
Following eBay-item contains a sheet which shows the meaning
of m1.6x3
http://www.ebay.de/itm/25-Stuck-M1-...124201386?pt=RC_Modellbau&hash=item53d91339aa
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Without a doubt . . . .
Guys I'm looking for a real original htc touch screen, till now I've found only clones. I tried them 2 times, and differently than the original one, when I dropped the phone with the clones 2 times on 2 I immediately broke the touch screen. Instead when I dropped the phone with the original one I had no problem at all.
The clones just suck...
Do you know where to find the real original touch screen?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GENUINE-HTC-T...UK_Mobiles_Accessories_RL&hash=item2eb0678ba3
supplied me genuine lcds & digitizers for a variaty of HTC & Nokia devices.
Big part with final result on Diamond 2 is correct bonding of digitizer, non solid setting adhesive should be used & full bonding around the edges must be achieved.
Solid setting adhesives transfer shock without any absorbtion & non bonded areas flex & resonate causing potential fracture points.
Of course ****e quality chinese copy parts play a big roll in problem repairs too ...
Actually I bought exactly the new touch screen from that seller. And that touch screen wasn't the original though.
You can see that it's not an original one looking at the zoom bar. It's shorter that the origial one. The genuine one gose from edge to edge, instead the clone one is smaller. And the overall colour is different. I can post pictures of both original one and clone one.
Anyway what do you mean by solid setting adeseive??
Just put in a PayPal claim for non delivery & get your money back. recently got LCD & digitixer for 2 Diamond repairs, both parts were original. If sent you copies do them over, get your money back & give them some nasty feed back.
No hard solid adhesives should be used, needs to be soft rubber type glue to help absorb & stop shock loads transfering to digitizer.
Ok here is a picture where you can see the difference between the original and the one bought from that seller. Is yours similar to the one marked original or to the one marked clone?
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/2456/touchscreen.jpg
One marked original, markings are light & the - & + icons run almost in-line with edges of screen.
Also back lighting bleeds through too much on cheap copy digitizers.
They supplied you a non genuine part so screw them over big time.
I live in Asia & by my digitizers & LCDs from UK as all our local parts suppliers sell china spare parts of supposing different quality pending on how much you are willing to pay ! Quality of almost all chinese digitizers & LCDs are simply ****e & not worth the postage stamp & do nothing but pollute the environment with manufacturing waste & a product that is waste as soon as removed from packaging.
Sorry to thread hi-jack but iv'e been looking for this answer everywhere and everywhere says what type of adhesive to use but no one gives a specific make-brand or link to buy any .
I was looking at buying a full case from the same seller as my phones current case is looking a little worn out and although the digitizer is perfect and is falling out i dare say when i try to get it off it will smash into a million little pieces so i'll order the full set. But my question remains what is the best type of glue to use who makes it and where can i get it from?
Oh and would be handy to hear if you have any tips or experiences using it.
Thanks
Digitizers, don't buy here, go there!
I too ordered 2 digitizers from E-cell; both were fakes!! They won't go into any discussion with me, they just told me to send them back. They KNOW that is crap there selling and advertise it as genuine...
BE AWARE DON'T BUY THERE, IT IS A WASTE OF TIME AND MONEY.
Yesterday 2 new digitizers arrived. I ordered them on ebay at:
Service Parts UK
Sarfraz Arif
10 sunny bank grove
Bradford
West Yorkshire
BD37DJ
United Kingdom
They work perfectly, this guy has 100% positive feedback on ebay. So if you want a good replacement, try it.
Digitizer glued to LCD?
I contacted a repair man and told me it's a waste of time buying replacement digitizer as the orginal is stuck onto the LCD and you risk damaging the LCD if you attempt to remove it.
Is this true or is he scaring me off in doing the job myself.
Also I read that you need adhesive tape is this true?
If refering to Diamond2, LCD is not bonded any any way to digitizer.
Digitizer is bonded to alloy front chassis only.
This is one of the easiest HTC models to strip & repair, LCD or digitizer can be fitted individually no question.
If you take care with disembly & be gentle with all ribbons it will be simple.
some common sense & previous experience comes in handy de-bonding & rebonding digitizer but its far from scary.
Adhesive tape is not the best option but perhaps the simplest.
I used a tiger brand u30 adhesive, black in colour & sets rubbery so act as a good shock absorber. advantage of adhesive bonding is better full radius bonding resulting in a more shock & direct impact resistant digitizer.
plapic said:
I contacted a repair man and told me it's a waste of time buying replacement digitizer as the orginal is stuck onto the LCD and you risk damaging the LCD if you attempt to remove it.
Is this true or is he scaring me off in doing the job myself.
Also I read that you need adhesive tape is this true?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have replaced mine 4 times. Used 3m black rubbery adhesive tape.
If you where my neighbour i would have changed it for faster than you could drink a cup of coffee
It's a bit tricky to find god digitizers on Ebay.
This is one of the best I bought. The backside should look like the one in this auction.
There's allot of rubbish digitizers on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LCD-Touch-Scr...Parts_Tools&hash=item414fee51b4#ht_2380wt_987
Sticky situation
@Mr B
Where do you buy this tiger brand u30 black adhesive? I googled it and found no results.
Also if I ever needed to replace the digitizer again will it be easy to remove if it had u30 adhesive on it?.
Mister B said:
If refering to Diamond2, LCD is not bonded any any way to digitizer.
Digitizer is bonded to alloy front chassis only.
This is one of the easiest HTC models to strip & repair, LCD or digitizer can be fitted individually no question.
If you take care with disembly & be gentle with all ribbons it will be simple.
some common sense & previous experience comes in handy de-bonding & rebonding digitizer but its far from scary.
Adhesive tape is not the best option but perhaps the simplest.
I used a tiger brand u30 adhesive, black in colour & sets rubbery so act as a good shock absorber. advantage of adhesive bonding is better full radius bonding resulting in a more shock & direct impact resistant digitizer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ebay
@Lasker1
I bought this Touch Screen Digitizer For HTC Touch Diamond 2 II T5353 and waiting for it to arrive. It was the only one I could find within my own local ebay listing that looks to have the right full length zoom guide at the bottom. Come over for a cuppa.
Lasker1 said:
I have replaced mine 4 times. Used 3m black rubbery adhesive tape.
If you where my neighbour i would have changed it for faster than you could drink a cup of coffee
It's a bit tricky to find god digitizers on Ebay.
This is one of the best I bought. The backside should look like the one in this auction.
There's allot of rubbish digitizers on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LCD-Touch-Scr...Parts_Tools&hash=item414fee51b4#ht_2380wt_987
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
plapic said:
@Mr B
Where do you buy this tiger brand u30 black adhesive? I googled it and found no results.
Also if I ever needed to replace the digitizer again will it be easy to remove if it had u30 adhesive on it?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fortune IT hardware shop BKK. No done a second replacement yet but tested adhesive prior to using it for assembly & it should be quite easy to clean to about 90%.
Tape is the simplest but varies in adhesive strength & can result in digitizer being not flush fitting & not evenly bonded resulting in easy failure with impact loads.
Also most people who use tape end up doing second replacement.
Ruud van Beek said:
I too ordered 2 digitizers from E-cell; both were fakes!! They won't go into any discussion with me, they just told me to send them back. They KNOW that is crap there selling and advertise it as genuine...
BE AWARE DON'T BUY THERE, IT IS A WASTE OF TIME AND MONEY.
Yesterday 2 new digitizers arrived. I ordered them on ebay at:
Service Parts UK
Sarfraz Arif
10 sunny bank grove
Bradford
West Yorkshire
BD37DJ
United Kingdom
They work perfectly, this guy has 100% positive feedback on ebay. So if you want a good replacement, try it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi.
Almost a 1 yeard old post but can you tell me the seller ID that sent you the digitizers or any other that you used to get good quality ones?
I really need it and most I found looks very low quality items.
Thanks.
Hi,
I recently purchased a HD2 on eBay. It was supposed to come immaculate but unfortunately there are dents on almost all corners. Rest if perfect.
I saw on eBay some chinese sellers selling new housing + battery covers for ~25 USD. So why not replacing the housing then? I decided to give it a try.
Well I have to say that it really did not work like in the videos I saw on youtube. I removed the 4 screws under the battery cover, gently pressed the back of the LCM outward but it really refused to pop out (no even half an inch). I discarded the pry tool (a very thine credit card actually) and even tried using a suction cup on the digitizer to pull it backwards but same problem. It's like the LCM/chassis was glued on the bezel. Phone has never been disassembled before (white sticker and void screw were still both there).
This is strange because in all the videos I saw the LCM/middle chassis was clearly not glued on the bezel. It immediately popped out a bit then you could start prying (and praying!). Ok I know that in those videos usually the phone has already been disassembled before so other attempts require less force to do it again for the recording.
My questions now to all the people who managed to do this. Did this require so much force? Is there a change and is HTC now glueing this part the LCM/middle chassis to the bezel? Any suggestion? Where is for you the best place to insert the pry tool when you start?
Thanks and regards,
Try flexing the plastic bezel above the earphone outwards a little while applying slight pressure to the sticker area on the back. There're two notches above which locks the frame to the pcb.
Hi,
Thanks for your help.
I will try that later.
I guess I might need to find a better pry tool.
BR.
Ok I managed to do it.
This required clearly some force on the pry tool (actually I used two plastic cards : a very thin and flexible one than a credit card). I started the operation above the earphone area.
Applying pressure on the sticker area was stresfull because the LCD immediately reacted to the pressure (hence a risk to break it or damage it). Best was to put two fingers on the sticker area to help the LCM module to pop out but with (almost) no pressure.
I had a doubt and now that I managed to remove the housing it's gone. The antennas (those white stuff you see in both top corners and at the bottom) are glued to the housing.
I prefer to spend a few more bucks to take a housing which has those antennas already in.
BR.
i had a similar frustrating experience to yours in trying to snap the back off the chassis on my hd2 which had a fingerprint on the *inside* of the camera cover glass which i needed to open it to get at.
it sure looks easy in that HTC disassembly video on youtube but the tech there is using a sort of plastic hooked tool for the job, which i didn't have, so i used my thumbnail instead in the same place (the upper left corner, looking at the phone from the front) and it took me a good 20 minutes of applying what seemed like unreasonable pressure to my touchscreen and nearly tearing my nail off to get it to pop out.
those snap-tabs the electronics manufacturers use to hold cases together -- even when they also have screws to do the job -- are one of my all-time pet hates. i usually end up breaking them off.
I will be doing the same thing soon. So the housing you removed has antennas glued to it ?. Thanks for that, I will try get new housing with antenna together if possible.
I replaced my screen a while back and can confirm the main body of the hd2 is glued to the sides of the chassis.
It does come out but with a lot of force but pry the glue lose around the whole chassis first by sliding a thin card right ot the bottom of the case and slowlyu move and pry it upwards with 2 cards one on the top and other on the right after you losend the glue. the top has the wifi adapter n that so be careful bottom has usb so mite break.
honestly i would say don't bother replacing it and just get a gel case or something to hide the damage. there's a high chance of messing the digitizer up and would just cause you more trouble of taking the whole phone apart bit by bit and trust me the components are tiny so easily breakable especially the ribbon cables they decided to use. my honest opinion don't
fallenmonk said:
I will be doing the same thing soon. So the housing you removed has antennas glued to it ?. Thanks for that, I will try get new housing with antenna together if possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yep they are white thin bits glued to the top portion of the case. wifi on left and phone on right if i remember. its been quite a while though since i took my old hd2 apart
Now that I know how to do this I will be easier next time.
Yes antennas are glued in the housing so best is to buy a housing which has antennas already in.
Important note : the antenna which is at the bottom of the housing exists in two different versions : EU or US so check with the seller which one he sells.
BR.
Top left : Amphenol-BT&Wifi-090820
Top right : Amphenol-GPS-090820
Bottom : Amphenol-EU-090828
If T-Mobiles US you need Amphenol-US
sirec said:
I replaced my screen a while back and can confirm the main body of the hd2 is glued to the sides of the chassis.
It does come out but with a lot of force but pry the glue lose around the whole chassis first by sliding a thin card right ot the bottom of the case and slowlyu move and pry it upwards with 2 cards one on the top and other on the right after you losend the glue. the top has the wifi adapter n that so be careful bottom has usb so mite break.
honestly i would say don't bother replacing it and just get a gel case or something to hide the damage. there's a high chance of messing the digitizer up and would just cause you more trouble of taking the whole phone apart bit by bit and trust me the components are tiny so easily breakable especially the ribbon cables they decided to use. my honest opinion don't
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i don't believe it's glued. as far as i can see the the case is held together with screws and plastic interlocking tabs. the trick is to get the latter to unclip.
No glue indeed just notches locking the LCM module to the bezel
Ok case closed
I got my new housing and the replacement went fine. For those who could be interrested I bought it on ebay from the seller forceviewer_uk in China. Everything went perfect so I can recommend this guy.
Hello, looking for a broken/borked/dead HTC One to attempt a different disassembly method to try to help the One community.
It is my understanding that they are glued together, not screwed, and that the suction cup method does not work. I used to retrofit headlights that also used glues, some heat glues, some needed a solvent. I have a lot of technical skill, and i would like to try my hand at popping one apart WITHOUT destroying the case/screen. I dont care if its water damaged, cracked screen, whatever, as long as its intact.
Posted this in all HTC One sections, please PM me if you have one or know of one, i'll pay shipping to and fro (i will NOT attempt repairs, JUST non-destructive disassembly) and post the results and a video on youtube if successful, and ship the unit back disassembled if successful, and not damaged further if not successful.
Please PM if interested or if you have any heads up to exchange contact information.
Thank you,
Slade8525
Interesting, have you looked in eBay yet?
TrueYears said:
Interesting, have you looked in eBay yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
not yet, i may later, but i want to see if its possible to decouple the hardware with simple acetate gas in a bag (pretty safe; its nail polish remover) and a low heat gun with a suction cup.
thats how i got the glass off my friends iphone digitizer when he cracked just the glass, then reglued it. glass screen cost $10 on amazon, screen/digitizer was only available through apple as a $200-something repair job.
joboutu trace
Ive taken one apart. Your not getting it apart without damaging the housing. No if's and's or but's. The amount of heat required to melt the glue holding the housing assembly together would damage the LCD (believe me, I know). In addition, any chemicals used will risk melting the delicate white plastic that is molded to the case. What I will tell you is that this will be a phone that requires a housing any time you service anything inside. Look on ebay. Complete housings are 50 bucks, that is what you will be looking at if you have to change a battery, lcd or internal board. I will say that 50 bucks isnt to bad for an aluminum housing. Plus, it freshens up the one to look like new. Let me know if you have any questions.
So, as we all know the Omate TrueSmart is as waterproof as a leaky boat, or perhaps a sponge.
However, I don't think there are any other Horologists on the forum at the moment. ( wikipedia horologist http:// en.wikipedia.org /wiki/horologist ).
After looking at the "seals" on the case buttons, and the laughable o-ring that Umeox/Omate have chosen to use on the back, along with the piece of silicone flap that they are using to seal the SIM card... I have to say that expecting it to be water resistant to any degree is a bit laughable.
So, I have a solution, the same one used by Rolex, Omega, Breitling, Citizen, Seiko, etc.. etc...
* Liquid silicone sealant gel on the SIM card seal and flap.
* Replace the silicone o-rings for the watch back with a thin silicone gasket, with more sealant gel
* Retrofit and replace the button seals, or create black silicone button covers that better seal them
I'm going to have to look at the speaker port on the watchband. I don't know if there is a simple solution there to make it compliant for 1 meter depth without severely affecting the quality of the sound output from that port. A brief examination makes it seem that the port -might- be able to take IP67 conditions .. but without reinforcement, I doubt it could take the forces involved in a swim, waves, wakes, spas.
Still, I think I can put together a kit, and instructions that careful and diligent people could use to retrofit the TrueSmart to make it far more waterproof than the manufacturer does. The kit would cost between $15 and $25 US, mostly to cover the cost of making custom molds for the silicone gaskets. ( There is a local TechShop here in Austin, and I have a CNC mill to make the aluminum molds, and all the design experience and software I need. Even so, a small super-accurate mold is a couple hundred dollars worth of materials and work. )
If there is enough interest evidenced here on a poll, I'll make the kit.
Sincerely,
Martin Bogomolni
Maker, Horologist, Coder, and Machinist
Need to redesign the case so that the speaker is sealed as well.
I've read that the O-rings are different among different runs. If the shape of the part of the case they fit against is different as well, wouldn't that make this effort require potentially as many different molds as the number of firmwares Loki has been trying to contend with? Or is it just the ring that's been different?
The case design is different. There's at least two maybe three.
Then that means I'll need to make two or three variants of the kit. This will also require some externally-visible way to identify the differences between various batches of TrueSmart watches.
Lokifish Marz said:
The case design is different. There's at least two maybe three.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think, just an opinion, that if the gasket between the body and the back cover has holes for the screws to pass through it like on my Last of the Kickstarter Dev Eds, 1/8/1900, delivered first of the USA group in early Feb, then that gasket works if properly placed and screwed together. The housing on these is flat, without raised screw hole posts and no groove.
I think the main problem you are going to need to overcome is the buttons and the mic pinhole leaking.
The speaker, if it doesn't mind getting wet itself, provides no entry path into the body if the wire set going in has been properly sealed inside (white sealant on mine, I think). Water could destroy the speaker, OK maybe, but not the watch unless it can follow the speaker connections back up into the body. Where the band halves meet the body on both sides there is a hole through the body to let the cables through, sealed inside with some white stuff. Maybe sealed...
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
The speaker is inside the case (under the square "bump" in the backplate) and uses nothing more than double sided tape. It is partly held into place by the plastic insert.
What is that open slot for then, in the band on the speaker side ?
Where the sound comes out ?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Yep. (see attached image)
Yes I was also curious about how the waterproofness of the speaker and microphone port would be approached. But I'm definitely down for one of these.
For what it's worth, I've submerged (no more than 2ft) my NA 1gb/8gb OTS and used it in the shower after having opened the bottom. During the first week I was constantly checking inside the case for internal moisture and didn't see any. It's been a while, but I remember thinking the physical buttons looked like they would let water in if used while underwater, but that didn't seem to happen.
for giggles, my omate arrived with bad software, and only pulling the battery would fix it. I had first tried letting the battery die out but the vcom drivers didn't fully take until i pulled the battery, so the water seal warranty was moot from early on. I don't remember how long I waited, but I sent the following screen to cecilia and a few other mailboxes at omate for help with no response (surprise!) before pulling the battery and stepping through the restore guides.
Looking back, I can't even imagine how the bootloader got to be so trashed! Volume up and down you say?
I am in. Also shared on G+ and KS comments the poll, good luck!
Yep
I'm definitely in support of this. I created a kayaking app that is pretty useless with the watch the way it is... having this kit out there would be great.
Hi. I am a watchmaker (horlogist?) from Germany and its my daily job to make watches watertight.
I have access to professional measuring devices for checking the watches if they are sealed. It is testet via air pressure, no water. The watchcase deformation is measured by fine sensors and if it is deforming in the given parameters then the device says proof or leak. There are ranges from -0,8 Bar to +20 Bar.
Further tests to locate the leak are made with water tests.
I havent received my pre ordered true smart yet (but I own a simvalley AW-414.go). Before I would test the true smart I would like to know how much pressure it could take before the screen brakes.
After the long wait and seeing this IPx7 drama unfold, I decided to just flip my TrueSmart on delivery - and flog it on eBay/Amazon without ever opening the box. Depending on the delivery timeline and other factors (such as the impending release of the Polar V800 and Garmin fenix 2) I may reconsider that strategy if this "aftermarket waterproofing" plan gains momentum.
I checked the option to be willing to pay for professional install (having waited this long - and the fact that the V800 is another $100 more expensive than the TrueSmart) but I'm more than happy to do the install myself if the kit is solid. From what I gather in the initial post, it's going to be a far sight better than the factory seal. So, if I keep my TrueSmart I'd be in for either the home install or the pro install option.
FWIW - I could care less about using this phone in **** Tracy mode [trademark pending]. For my money, stuff a grommet in the ports and glue/seal them in place - my goal is to use the device for training.
DerUhrmacher said:
HThe watchcase deformation is measured by fine sensors and if it is deforming in the given parameters then the device says proof or leak. There are ranges from -0,8 Bar to +20 Bar.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In a pressurized submersion test it will fill with water before anything else. The case was never tested beyond about 0.015 Bar and even then it wasn't tested properly (bare case, no buttons or straps and all the ports sealed in 15cm of water).
Them doing something as simple as not putting in the speaker right or the double sided tape not seal correctly on the speaker will negate any water resistance it may have had.
Had any luck looking into this?
I would definitely be interested in a kit to improve waterproofing...
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Me too ! I don't see a survey, maybe Tapatalk does not support surveys ?
I bought a NeverWet spray set from HomeDePot recently. They show how to treat an iPhone 5 by removing the back cover and spraying inside. I don't have an iPhone or I might try it. Wouldn't care...the stuff worked pretty good on my shoes though.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
In the meantime...
Hi horologists,
I was wondering: is there anything a layman could do in the meantime to, at least, improve the water sealing on the TrueSmart? I'm not interested in submerging it or taking a shower; I just don't want to be afraid that my watch will short if I get stuck in rain and put it in my pocket.
One of the things I obviously don't want to be doing is just smearing vaseline all over it as that'll ruin the silicone components, correct? I am currently purchasing silicone grease (dielectric so non-conductive) to improve the seals on the bottom and around the sim card case. What should I do about the buttons? Can I put more grease around their edges? Would vaseline be apprpriate there, since it's coming in contact with my skin and there seems to be no silicone gaskets? What's the best quick fix for buttons?
Sorry if these questions are stupid but... this is admittedly coming from a place of utter ignorance. : )
Take care and thanks very much.