Hi,
I noticed that my SUUNTO power clip fits perfectly on the TS also using 4 connecting point. However I do not know how the wiring of the TS is and how it then should be changed on the clip. I think it would be much more practical to use a modified power clip vs the Omate cradle (obviously need to buy an additional SUUNTO power clip to modify). Any ideas?
Pics? Google brings me to this thread, LOL.
A charger is just 5V and 0V, so it will be simple to modify (if it needs modifying).
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app
http://www.backcountry.com/suunto-ambit-power-cable-strap
found on google
You sure that's the right one? It doesn't look like it will fit my TS
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app
Here some pictures
OK, that looks pretty funky. Yeah I think it would work. If it doesn't, it would be easy to modify
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app
Best way to check is to hook the cable to a charger and check the metal points with a multimeter and do the same thing for the cradle.
Good idea. OP let us know
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app
Wow can´t wait to hear if it works out for you...
Suunto - warning!!
Joost39 said:
Wow can´t wait to hear if it works out for you...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK - I too was thinking the SUUNTO lead would be a good extra addition, so ordered one off Fleabay.
I used a standard voltmeter to check the connections on the TS cradle (pics will come).
With the clam shell opened to the left, so the 4 contact pins are on the right, the voltages (top to bottom) are: GND, +2.00V, +2.57V, +5V. [This is plugged into a wall plug charger, not PC)
Using the meter on the SUUNTO lead, oriented to reflect the same top to bottom pinout (for me the lead comes out of the right of the plug, and SUUNTO is upside down),
then THE GND AND +5V ARE REVERSED, SO THIS WOULD PROBABLY SHORT THE TS BATTERY/DAMAGE THE WATCH.
Im in the process of hacking the cable, just by cutting open and switching the cables, but initial feedback doesn't show the that the TS is charging.
[I have only swapped GND and 5V, so wonder if the other lower voltages are needed]
I do also see that the SUUNTO clamp pins and TS pads don't line up exactly, and the clamp doesn't hold on very well to the watch....
More updates later.
Thanks for sharing this info.
I am currently waiting on the spare SUUNTO cable to arrive to complete the MOD with an USB connector. I agree the SUUNTO clamp is not fixed as tight on the TS as to my Ambit2 watch but it does work and I think it still would be easier to use vs the Omate cradle. Just hope it will charge with the cable.....
roubroeks said:
Thanks for sharing this info.
I am currently waiting on the spare SUUNTO cable to arrive to complete the MOD with an USB connector. I agree the SUUNTO clamp is not fixed as tight on the TS as to my Ambit2 watch but it does work and I think it still would be easier to use vs the Omate cradle. Just hope it will charge with the cable.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wasn't this sort of clip what the TS was going to use originally before they moved to the cradle? I don't mind the cradle I just use it with my wireless charger...
Small update: I reversed to polarity of SUUNTO clip by changing the USB connector to match the 5V +/- of the TS cradle (pin 1 and 4); however the TS does not charge. I assume there is a bit more to it to match the SUUNTO charger cable with the cradle and get TS to charge (I am measuring different resistance in clip and cradle from pin 2 and 3). But unfortunately I am more of a desk jockey and not really technically savvy :silly:
Maybe somebody has more info on the cradle circuit and is able to built the right charger clip. For now the non-ergonomic cradle is the only option for me.
Thanks for your research, I've been waiting for your update.
It wouldn't be complicated to set up a rig to mimic the charger but its more hassle than I can be bothered with and it wouldn't help anyone else because each person would have to buy the Suunto clip and modify it themselves.
If you're going to butcher a piece of hardware, a simpler solution would be to go to poundland and buy a large hair clip and fix it to your cradle, so you can sit the watch in it and clamp it in place.
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app
Agree LeighR. Well maybe Omate will re-design the cradle one day to make it more ergonomic so one can eg use the buttons while charging..... but I guess by then we will be buying our next gen wrist-phones with the major manufacturers.
It is a simple thing to do to drill a couple of small holes in the side of the cradle so you can press the buttons with a toothpick. I did that to mine back in February and the cradle is still fine. Of course, be careful and use a small bit, but its not rocket science.
Expecting Omate to redesign the cradle borders on foolishness, in my opinion. After all, if they had cared even a little they could have driiled the holes themselves during manufacturing. They could even have extended the buttons to the outside of the case, too, but they did not.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
trent999 said:
It is a simple thing to do to drill a couple of small holes in the side of the cradle so you can press the buttons with a toothpick. I did that to mine back in February and the cradle is still fine. Of course, be careful and use a small bit, but its not rocket science.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've drilled holes in mine but it's a crap solution. Actually, I barely use the buttons but the cradle also makes it a pain to use pull down/up menus.
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app
This kinda works. Its not great but its cheap - £1 for 6 from pound land
Maybe a rubber band would be better
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app
can anyone confirm these universal chargers would be working if we connect it to the right pin? i am confused whichone to connect..
THESE:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41HJAHGXWaL._SY300_.jpg
http://images.shopmadeinchina.com/p...e-Lithium-Battery-Charger-USB_5404046.bak.jpg
CPGOD said:
OK - I too was thinking the SUUNTO lead would be a good extra addition, so ordered one off Fleabay.
I used a standard voltmeter to check the connections on the TS cradle (pics will come).
With the clam shell opened to the left, so the 4 contact pins are on the right, the voltages (top to bottom) are: GND, +2.00V, +2.57V, +5V. [This is plugged into a wall plug charger, not PC)
Using the meter on the SUUNTO lead, oriented to reflect the same top to bottom pinout (for me the lead comes out of the right of the plug, and SUUNTO is upside down),
then THE GND AND +5V ARE REVERSED, SO THIS WOULD PROBABLY SHORT THE TS BATTERY/DAMAGE THE WATCH.
Im in the process of hacking the cable, just by cutting open and switching the cables, but initial feedback doesn't show the that the TS is charging.
[I have only swapped GND and 5V, so wonder if the other lower voltages are needed]
I do also see that the SUUNTO clamp pins and TS pads don't line up exactly, and the clamp doesn't hold on very well to the watch....
More updates later.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
chiwah said:
can anyone confirm these universal chargers would be working if we connect it to the right pin? i am confused whichone to connect..
THESE:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41HJAHGXWaL._SY300_.jpg
http://images.shopmadeinchina.com/p...e-Lithium-Battery-Charger-USB_5404046.bak.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ignore any of my reference to needing to supply power to the middle two pins - I was wrong.
I have now got the SUUNTO clip working with just 0V and +5V to the outside pins - its all about lining them up properly!
Related
anyone know of any cheap in car holders made specificly for the tp2, i just want one that the phone slides in and fits perfectly and has space at the bottom to plug in a uks cable
jenkinson6a said:
anyone know of any cheap in car holders made specificly for the tp2, i just want one that the phone slides in and fits perfectly and has space at the bottom to plug in a uks cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats the same i want!
But i want it to turn it 90 degrees CW. So i can use it for navigation (looks better then portrait).
but i can't find any holder so far...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=520779
I'll try and take a picture later to show you it "sitting" in my old Kaiser mount. If I modified the charger block to not be attached, I'm sure it would fulfil the requirements.
Works landscape and portrait too!
dazultra2000 said:
I'll try and take a picture later to show you it "sitting" in my old Kaiser mount. If I modified the charger block to not be attached, I'm sure it would fulfil the requirements.
Works landscape and portrait too!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool, look forward to seeing it, need a holder asap
Here you go.
3 pictures:
1 showing my old kaiser in the mount, to prove it is indeed a kaiser mount, USB plugged in
1 showing the TP2 in portrait mode, sitting on top of the USB plug
1 showing the TP2 in landscape mode.
It should be noted that there is a bit of wiggle when in landscape mode. This is because the TP2 isn't as thick as the kaiser.
If you could find some way of attaching the USB plug where it should be, then that would help hold it in place.
Also, it's rather embarrasing that my company-supplied, POS, makes-everyone-sound-like-a-dalek Nokia 6300 takes better pictures than my TP2 can
not the best looking but it does the job..............
the cheapest and the most must have if you got a car.
http://www.memorybits.co.uk/shop/mo...e-phonepda-windscreen-mounted-universal-/9092
Would the actual car holders have a power cable that connects to a 12V connection? Or would it be likely to have a mini USB to USB there?
What I want to do is to connect my TP2 directly to my Asus R2H while I'm in the car. That saves me another bluetooth connection for syncing.
Take a look at this picture:
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/GroteFoto-LTLWPB8F.jpg
Or the last few pictures from this album:
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Album=ZYX7DZAT
The TP2 would then be mounted just below the R2H.
Plantje said:
Would the actual car holders have a power cable that connects to a 12V connection? Or would it be likely to have a mini USB to USB there?
What I want to do is to connect my TP2 directly to my Asus R2H while I'm in the car. That saves me another bluetooth connection for syncing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Brodit do passive and active mounts, if you get the passive one you can connect your own mini-USB to USB cable to connect to your Asus. (The active ones have either a cigar lighter plug or a two wire connection for direct wiring into the vehicle)
Gordon
Yes, I saw that. Only downside of a passive holder is that I have to plug the USB cable in every time. But hey: that's what I'm doing now as well
Let's go for the passive one! It's cheaper anyway!
Now i wait for this Brodit.
http://www.brodit.com/images/512021.jpg
I suppose we should not charge the battery in the car anyway, so I avoy it!
That's why I don't consider the active holder... I use a passive and have a car charger just in case of need (very unusual)!
I'm still waiting for my passive holder
Deiota said:
I suppose we should not charge the battery in the car anyway, so I avoy it!
That's why I don't consider the active holder... I use a passive and have a car charger just in case of need (very unusual)!
I'm still waiting for my passive holder
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here. Passive holder with car charger when in need (navigation or something else).
I ordered it last week, they said they should be in stock in the next days...
kapitola said:
Now i wait for this Brodit.
http://www.brodit.com/images/512021.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The brodit is now out, got mine here. Shame I have no phone to use it with at the minute!
Deiota said:
I suppose we should not charge the battery in the car anyway, so I avoy it!
That's why I don't consider the active holder... I use a passive and have a car charger just in case of need (very unusual)!
I'm still waiting for my passive holder
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why not charge the battery in the car? My phone and my laptop are basically on AC power the whole day!
Plantje said:
Why not charge the battery in the car? My phone and my laptop are basically on AC power the whole day!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Because LiPolymer-Batterys don't like to be charged when they are warm. In a car it can easily be 80+ [°C] and there is the direkt sun onto the phone.
My Brodit Active holder arrived today and I am pleased with it, however I am a bit concerned that when the phone is slid onto the holder the thin guides that slide up between the phone and the keyboard seem to force the two apart more than I think they should be.
Hmmm, I will have to wait and see it it results in a sloppy hinge.
elab
I already have a passive brodit holder with the same "problem"... I already fear for the same thin.... getting it damaged... what do you think?
Could you guys please post some pictures here? I still need to order the holder and your pictures will probably be more clear than the nice marketing pictures from Brodit
here are some pictures of the passive holder:
I am looking for a permanent car charger cable to install into my car.
It needs to be a 15' to 20' long with a straight cord for a hidden cable run.
I would like to hook it up to the cars wiring under the dash, run it under the windshield pillar trim to between the headliner and roof then drop out above the rear view mirror. I would then plug it into my car dock this just makes a cleaner look.
I have searched around the net but no luck yet.
Any help would be appreciated.
I haven't seen that, but what you may need to do this this. I did something like it a few years ago with a radar detector
get this or something like it
http://cgi.ebay.com/Belkin-Mini-Uni...Accessories&hash=item3a66d9f61b#ht_643wt_1396
and then a usb cord for the length you want, and attach the power and ground to the cig lighter adapter you can take it apart if you need just make sure you get the + and - right and leave the fuse in there. then tape it up nice with electrical tape and wire it in to the fuse panel to turn on with the ignition. its really not as getto as it sounds.
i just use that adapter and plug it in my back seat lighter and run the cord up by the front seat
I Would just use a cigarette lighter adapter: http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...082602&p_id=6765&seq=1&format=3#specification
hidden under the dash, and then plug in one of these:http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=5138&seq=1&format=2
Everything you need to put a 12v cigarette lighter socket under the dash is available at an auto-parts store for <$10.
Why don't you just connect to the wiring that is connecting to the cigarette lighter adapter?
That way it would be 5V, and then you can connect that to a project box, and install a fuse in there, and then put the wiring from that to the usb cable.
I did this about 10 years ago, when I directly connected the radar detector, and lights under the seats controlled by buttons. Was fairly easy to do, depending on how much room you have to work with connecting the wiring.
nejohnson said:
I Would just use a cigarette lighter adapter: http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...082602&p_id=6765&seq=1&format=3#specification
hidden under the dash, and then plug in one of these:http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=5138&seq=1&format=2
Everything you need to put a 12v cigarette lighter socket under the dash is available at an auto-parts store for <$10.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much this is close enough to what I was looking for, I will make it work!
KMac Tilt said:
Thank you very much this is close enough to what I was looking for, I will make it work!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
buy a 12v socket too, get something like this, should be cheap on ebay, then just snip off the male end and stripe the cable so you can tap your car's 12v socket wiring
http://www.google.com/products/cata...sa=X&ei=9Xg6ToTpGeuksQLKluEk&ved=0CI8BEPMCMAc
Just as an FYI, as I see what you are going to do and it is a far better alternative.
A 10'+ cable will not give you full charging voltage at the end of that run. The cable is too long for the small amount of voltage running through it. While it WILL still charge, it will be at a fairly slower rate.
There is a thread in the EVO forums where I was asking cause it was something I noticed and someone who seemed to know what they were talking about when it came to electricity, replied.
I would link it, but been up all night and am getting tired.
Lord Delmar said:
Just as an FYI, as I see what you are going to do and it is a far better alternative.
A 10'+ cable will not give you full charging voltage at the end of that run. The cable is too long for the small amount of voltage running through it. While it WILL still charge, it will be at a fairly slower rate.
There is a thread in the EVO forums where I was asking cause it was something I noticed and someone who seemed to know what they were talking about when it came to electricity, replied.
I would link it, but been up all night and am getting tired.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
as far as I know USB cable can go up to 5m or about 16ft, this length has more to do with data transmission signal quality issue, for straight charging there's no signal at all, so shouldn't be a problem. When you get a chance please post your link, so i can study this some more
went google found this...
http://www.otdl.com/VDROOP.PDF
Here is the thread...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=844055
Here is my post within that thread, its post 23, but my question is answered around 25.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=9402352&postcount=23
Have you checked with 12 Volt Designs, they offer a couple of options that may work for you.
I would post a link, but I am still new to this forum
This is such a good idea!
Sent from my PG86100 using xda premium
Get a 2amp 2 usb car lighter charger from Amazon and 15 or 20' micro usb cable from monoprice.com... Exactly my setup with a exo gear Exomount for my evo to windshield mount.
Sent from my HTC Evo 3D
I got tired of multiple cigarette lighter adapters a while back. I bought a 5A 12V to 5V converter on eBay, and wired it to switched power. It powers my phone, GPS, and Bluetooth audio gateway all from the one little box.
I have G9 80 16GB Turbo. The plastic part of the inner micro USB feeder is broken and sticked out to the USB charger pin. My USB charger cable now blocked by that thing and cannot be use anymore. Now in the USB feeder of Archos just remain 4 tiny metals without plastic support (only 4 USB metal pins connector) and not able to take charge by anyway, it is bricked because of no battery power.
It is just 2 months old and no warranty since I bought it in airport transit. 3 times emailed [email protected] with no response as the world has suspected.
1. I've checked my Archos and did not find any screw other than single screw in the USB 3G compartment. I really thankful if anyone can write step-by step dismantle procedure.
2. Can anyone share the shape of USB type soldered to the PCB to enable me order the part and soldering it alone.
3. I've search this on thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1557506, but the information provided on how to dismantle is not very clear.
4. Thankyou in advance.
cangguek said:
I have G9 80 16GB Turbo. The plastic part of the inner micro USB feeder is broken and sticked out to the USB charger pin. My USB charger cable now blocked by that thing and cannot be use anymore. Now in the USB feeder of Archos just remain 4 tiny metals without plastic support (only 4 USB metal pins connector) and not able to take charge by anyway, it is bricked because of no battery power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uuups this is bad...
cangguek said:
It is just 2 months old and no warranty since I bought it in airport transit. 3 times emailed [email protected] with no response as the world has suspected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's sad that they did not reply, but do you think it is covered by warranty if your borked the USB connector?
cangguek said:
1. I've checked my Archos and did not find any screw other than single screw in the USB 3G compartment. I really thankful if anyone can write step-by step dismantle procedure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's only a single screw at the back.
The housing is hold together by some plastic clamps and it is a pain to open the case (at least compared to a A101IT Gen8).
You really need some force and be very careful not to damage anything...
I'll post a few pics this week in a different thread, because i opened the device last week and it was little bit catchy
cangguek said:
2. Can anyone share the shape of USB type soldered to the PCB to enable me order the part and soldering it alone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Usually this is not an easy task... at least for the unexperienced ones.
Be careful with the thin lines on that PCB.
To unsolder the connector you'll need a lot of heat because it is connected to the gorund plane of the mainboard.
Anyway i don't know the manufacturer, but i guess these MicroUSB connectors are all pretty similar.
So try to catch one, wherever it is sold.
cangguek said:
3. I've search this on thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1557506, but the information provided on how to dismantle is not very clear.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should start on the opposite side of the connectors and use some plectrums (used by guitar players) to lift off the plastic clamps.
As i said i'll prepare some pics...
EDIT: Here's an overview on how i opened the case.
As already stated it was a pain, and though i had been very careful, some tiny plastics got damaged.
The red circles mark the plastic clamps and the holes they were stucked in respectively.
The green arrows mark the direction i slided my guitar plectrum.
In between you'll have to use something like a screwdriver or putty knife to lift the clamps from their counterparts (this was the evil part).
In the end lift the top of the housing in the yellow direction.
Please take care of the flat cables of the TFT display, don't rip it off!!!
cangguek said:
4. Thankyou in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome!
scholbert
scholbert,
I don't know how should I thanks for your detailed information and photo on your reply.
Below my comment:
1. There is no abuse on the USB port (even no single scratch or dent to prove the abuse, from new I feel it is really tight when I connect the cable into the port, finally the plastic part comes out "cleanly" along with the USB cable connector when I unplug. That's way I try to bet the warranty honor...ray.
2. I've checked eBay and I find many type of micro USB port selling.
3. Based on the generous help you've written I will try to dismantle my Archos when I have spare time within this week.
4. If I may ask, for what purpose you dismantle your Archos. And did you find any problem something like not properly tight when you remantle it again?.
5. From the picture, are all the clamps just on the display side, or mix up and down between the base and display?. Appreciate if you can post the zoom picture of the clamp and the hole to know it's anatomy to make easier when pushing during dismantle process. I also seeing 4 screw-like holes on 4 corner, are they also something like alignment clamps without actual screw?.
6. Big thankyou again for your response.
cangguek said:
4. If I may ask, for what purpose you dismantle your Archos. And did you find any problem something like not properly tight when you remantle it again?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know if i got a second edition device, but i realized this screen issue as well (pressure on the back causes effects on the display).
So i thought i may open it and try to solve this issue.
Anyway i always like to investigate on the construction of these devices...
cangguek said:
5. From the picture, are all the clamps just on the display side, or mix up and down between the base and display?. Appreciate if you can post the zoom picture of the clamp and the hole to know it's anatomy to make easier when pushing during dismantle process. I also seeing 4 screw-like holes on 4 corner, are they also something like alignment clamps without actual screw?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be exact, the clamps are located all on the base unit.
The display side got the holes for the clamps. I'll see if i could make a more detailed picture, to point you in the right direction.
Though i'm not sure if it helps.
The srew like holes you pointed at are for alignment only.
I also found some glue in the holes, but this is no problem.
Some words on seperation...
It worked out like this on the long side of the housing (upper and lower):
- I tried to seperate the display part and the base with the plectrum step by step
- tried to locate each clamp step by step
- then used a screwdriver
- tried to press gently against the clamp, direction outside to inside
(be very careful and the long side at the bottom, because of the display flex cable)
- then try to lift the parts more and more (it's terrible, but it works)
- keep an eye on the torsion of the display side
(seperate the parts too much, might crack the screen)
I guess i'll prepare some more pics...
Stay tuned!
scholbert
You are really a man god sent to me, thankyou so much. I'm really itching to do the job. First thing I will do once dismantle completed, is to wire two lines for temporary charging until the part I order arrive. If by any chance impossible to replace micro USB port, then I will make hole on the base for common round type DC charging port + and - only.
Hey cangguek,
as promised, here are some detailed views of the clamps (base unit) and holders (display side).
The are four holders in total with two holes each.
The holders are seperate parts and are mounted with three screws in the display part of the housing. Each holder fits into two clamps of the base unit.
Unfortunately they can only get disassembled after you managed to open the housing.
The edge of the clamps point to the border of the base unit housing.
So you may try to push them gently to the inside to release the mating part at the display side.
Anyway i hope things are clear enough now...
Some words on your idea of soldering a DC charging port:
Electrically this would work i guess, but there might be some driver issue which could prevent the unit from charging.
It depends on how the charger is identified by the software driver, which activates the charging process.
On some devices it is required to shorten the data lines of the usb connector, others use the id pin on the micro usb to detect wether a host pc or a wall charger is connected. I don't know how things are done on the Archos 80 G9.
I just wanted to point that out before you start soldering...
Good luck!!!
scholbert
scholbert said:
Some words on your idea of soldering a DC charging port:
Electrically this would work i guess, but there might be some driver issue which could prevent the unit from charging.
It depends on how the charger is identified by the software driver, which activates the charging process.
On some devices it is required to shorten the data lines of the usb connector, others use the id pin on the micro usb to detect wether a host pc or a wall charger is connected. I don't know how things are done on the Archos 80 G9.
I just wanted to point that out before you start soldering...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
-Data lines are not shorted, charging cable is a fully functional usb cable
-There must be something done to 4th (unused) pin in micro sd plug so device can detect Archos/"normal" cables (my guess- check data lines->if usb host not present check 4th pin->original=fast charge/3rd party=slow charge)
gen_scheisskopf said:
-Data lines are not shorted, charging cable is a fully functional usb cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i know that the data lines in the cable are not shorted.
AFAIK, they get shorted when connected to the wall charger.
I own a Milestone phone (which definitely requires the lines shorted for charging) and i successfully used the Archos wall charger to charge this device.
At least i wanted to point in this direction...
Thanks for your comment.
Regards,
scholbert
scholbert said:
Yeah i know that the data lines in the cable are not shorted.
AFAIK, they get shorted when connected to the wall charger.
I own a Milestone phone (which definitely requires the lines shorted for charging) and i successfully used the Archos wall charger to charge this device.
At least i wanted to point in this direction...
Thanks for your comment.
Regards,
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok
-data lines are shorted together in charger (not to gnd/vcc)
-that's strange but 4th pin seems not to be connected anywhere
sorry, left empty.
Dear scholbert,
All the process as you said really a devil. I am stuck here (at red arrow) and can not proceed unless I tear it with force. Seems there different clamps ?.
Now I am stopping the the job waiting your further help.
Thankyou for helping me:
cangguek said:
Dear scholbert,
All the process as you said really a devil. I am stuck here (at red arrow) and can not proceed unless I tear it with force. Seems there different clamps ?.
Now I am stopping the the job waiting your further help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i know it hurts... but AFAIK all the clamps are identical.
Nevertheless i realized the same during disassembly.
Some of the clamps did release quite well, at some point i also was afraid i'll break the device into pieces. I'm sorry but i guess you'll have to use gentle force to get it seperated.
BTW, i don't want to be responsible if you damage something
Another warning at this point:
I even did break some small plastics during opening (in the mainboard area), but it doesn't matter in the end, because there are many clamps to hold the parts in place
Good luck!
scholbert
Just to confirm the only screw I removed only the one under the stand stick, I hope I am not missing here. I am still not continuing dismantle process, but at least 40% of the casing has been opened.
cangguek said:
Just to confirm the only screw I removed only the one under the stand stick, I hope I am not missing here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right, only one screw...
Regards,
scholbert
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
cangguek said:
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
someone needs to get out the old dustbuster
cangguek said:
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
View attachment 1057101 View attachment 1057102View attachment 1057103
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am happy to see these pictures as they confirm my suspicion. The usb charge port is only soldered on, no screws to hold it in place. That is not a proper mechanical construction and it is no winder it becomes disconnected with only a little use. I have sent 2 units back already which will no longer charge as the mount point has come loose. Number 3 broke too now and as they want me to pay for shipment again ( €50) I am thinking of fixing it myself in stead, but properly..
I have the same problem
Did you eventually repair this problem. If so were did you get the spare part. i have got the same problem. I think i might try returning to my supplier first.
Brilliant tips
scholbert said:
Uuups this is bad...
It's sad that they did not reply, but do you think it is covered by warranty if your borked the USB connector?
There's only a single screw at the back.
The housing is hold together by some plastic clamps and it is a pain to open the case (at least compared to a A101IT Gen8).
You really need some force and be very careful not to damage anything...
I'll post a few pics this week in a different thread, because i opened the device last week and it was little bit catchy
Usually this is not an easy task... at least for the unexperienced ones.
Be careful with the thin lines on that PCB.
To unsolder the connector you'll need a lot of heat because it is connected to the gorund plane of the mainboard.
Anyway i don't know the manufacturer, but i guess these MicroUSB connectors are all pretty similar.
So try to catch one, wherever it is sold.
You should start on the opposite side of the connectors and use some plectrums (used by guitar players) to lift off the plastic clamps.
As i said i'll prepare some pics...
EDIT: Here's an overview on how i opened the case.
As already stated it was a pain, and though i had been very careful, some tiny plastics got damaged.
The red circles mark the plastic clamps and the holes they were stucked in respectively.
The green arrows mark the direction i slided my guitar plectrum.
In between you'll have to use something like a screwdriver or putty knife to lift the clamps from their counterparts (this was the evil part).
In the end lift the top of the housing in the yellow direction.
Please take care of the flat cables of the TFT display, don't rip it off!!!
You're welcome!
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great tips & will add my own step by step as replacing my screen on G9 after it parachuted from 2 foot onto a rubber floor!!:good:
topsterdog said:
Great tips & will add my own step by step as replacing my screen on G9 after it parachuted from 2 foot onto a rubber floor!!:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be very interested in this and to learn where you bought the replacement screen...
I have an 80G9 with cracked screen and LCD and busted digitiser.
Sent from my ARCHOS 101G9
Before I begin, if there is already a thread outlining this particular problem, I apologize in advance.
Yesterday my Truesmart was in the charging cradle sitting on my desk, not realizing it, I accidentally opened a draw which pulled on the USB cable, dragging my Truesmart off of the desk and onto the floor. My truesmart fell about 2 feet and is fine, but the charging cradle will no longer charge it. I would assume that something broke in the cradle when it fell, which justifies the pathetic quality of it, although there is no visual damage on the cradle and when shaken nothing rattles around inside of the cradle.
My question is what should I do now? I am almost certain that it is the cradle that is the problem and not the Truesmart or the USB as the watch will still turn on and the USB will charge other devices. I have tried different power sources and different USBs and I only have one cradle. Is there anything I should troubleshoot in order to try and get the cradle working? Or is is possible that the problem is with the watch?
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
The spring contacts in the cradle may have gotten smushed in a bit by the impact. Try prying them up gently with like a needle.
Otherwise, the solders connecting the microUSB connector inside the cradle might have failed. They have been reported to be of poor quality on another owner's cradle with cold solders. Try resoldering them if probing them shows them not good connections anymore.
Thirdly, maybe your USB cable itself was damaged in the drop. Test it too.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
I tried what you suggested with the needle and it didn't make any difference, they seem to be at the right position anyway.
I have a feeling it might be the solders, as it is possible that the sudden shock of the microUSB inside of the port caused something to break. Unfortunately I do not have any knowledge of soldering nor the equipment to do it. I wouldn't know how to open up the cradle without breaking it anyway.
I already tested the USB cable, it charges anything else, and I have tried other USBs with the Truesmart to make sure that it is infact the cradle.
I have sent Magan (may or may not have spelt her name right) two emails and have received no response.
Asking omate for another cradle is useless. Omate is focusing on shipping units not cradles. I know this because my cradle stopped working also. The solder on the female USB plug had failed. I took it into a local electronic repair shop and they resoldered a new plug on. They also asked me what doll or store I pitched the charger at.
I've been thinking of replacing the spring contacts with actual pogo pins. It's silly that the charger doesn't utilize them to begin with.
Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
rhineymac said:
Asking omate for another cradle is useless. Omate is focusing on shipping units not cradles. I know this because my cradle stopped working also. The solder on the female USB plug had failed. I took it into a local electronic repair shop and they resoldered a new plug on. They also asked me what doll or store I pitched the charger at.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am aware but I figured it was worth a shot since my order was missing a keychain that I was told would ship "soon".
I might look into taking it into a shop, how much did it cost you to do that? And I didn't understand your last sentence.
He mistyped "dollar store".
Apparently they have such cheap budget shops up in Canada too. I get my colored USB cables from them, they say, " Made in China" on them and generally last a couple of weeks.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Have you had the back of the watch off? If so loosen all 4 screws then tighten the 2 where the charge pins are first - then tighten the other end, where the buttons and camera is, last. I had an issue where the watch would not charge after reinstalling the back. I think the internal contact pins barley contact the flexible plastic copper pads. I originally crisscrossed tightened the screws and it wouldn't charge. If I have to install the back cover again I will most likely add a thin layer of something underneath the cable pad to help close the gap and provide a more solid contact for the internal pins. I could visibly see where there was maybe 2 out of the 4 pins making adequate contact.
Oops yes I ment dollar store. It didn't cost me much. $10 but the guy told me that it wouldn't last long, which it didn't, it stopped charging my ts today. He told me that its cheap, pure and simple. I was suppose to receive a spare that I paid for. When I asked about it I was told they won't ship it until after all KS and preorders were shipped. Omates way of telling me that I'm SOL
rhineymac said:
Oops yes I ment dollar store. It didn't cost me much. $10 but the guy told me that it wouldn't last long, which it didn't, it stopped charging my ts today. He told me that its cheap, pure and simple. I was suppose to receive a spare that I paid for. When I asked about it I was told they won't ship it until after all KS and preorders were shipped. Omates way of telling me that I'm SOL
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I realized you meant dollar store shortly after posting lol, unfortunately I have even seen nicer chargers at the dollar store. $10 isn't bad but I guess at that price it makes sense to get a new charger if possible. I love how I am fortunate to have a semi-working watch but can't even use it because I don't have a working charger. Thanks for all of your help Omate -.-
SkyHawkTech said:
Have you had the back of the watch off? If so loosen all 4 screws then tighten the 2 where the charge pins are first - then tighten the other end, where the buttons and camera is, last. I had an issue where the watch would not charge after reinstalling the back. I think the internal contact pins barley contact the flexible plastic copper pads. I originally crisscrossed tightened the screws and it wouldn't charge. If I have to install the back cover again I will most likely add a thin layer of something underneath the cable pad to help close the gap and provide a more solid contact for the internal pins. I could visibly see where there was maybe 2 out of the 4 pins making adequate contact.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the back off of the watch once, after putting it back on it worked fine up until I dropped it. The watch will turn on, it just won't charge. I will try your suggestion anyway when I have my watch around though. The assembly of the watch is disgustingly poor, there is what looks like dried glue seeping out of the SIM slot of my watch. Very lucky to have no issues with buttons or pin contact and etc.
Agent. said:
I realized you meant dollar store shortly after posting lol, unfortunately I have even seen nicer chargers at the dollar store. $10 isn't bad but I guess at that price it makes sense to get a new charger if possible. I love how I am fortunate to have a semi-working watch but can't even use it because I don't have a working charger. Thanks for all of your help Omate -.-
I had the back off of the watch once, after putting it back on it worked fine up until I dropped it. The watch will turn on, it just won't charge. I will try your suggestion anyway when I have my watch around though. The assembly of the watch is disgustingly poor, there is what looks like dried glue seeping out of the SIM slot of my watch. Very lucky to have no issues with buttons or pin contact and etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the problem ive had with the charger is the female usb port. its very loose. i wonder if we will ever see the xtra things we paid for, xtra chargers, tshirts sd cards. its bad enough that the watch is a mess, but to have a propriatiery charger is just icing on the cake. theres not way of fixing it. well there is,but it only lasted a week. the guy who fixed mine laughed at me and told me you get what u pay for. This is only partly true, the charger was $5 but isnt worth $1
You could make a charger with a dollar store USB charging cable you cut up to expose the +5 and gnd wires, then tape them to the right pins on the back of the watch, carefully.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
rhineymac said:
the problem ive had with the charger is the female usb port. its very loose. i wonder if we will ever see the xtra things we paid for, xtra chargers, tshirts sd cards. its bad enough that the watch is a mess, but to have a propriatiery charger is just icing on the cake. theres not way of fixing it. well there is,but it only lasted a week. the guy who fixed mine laughed at me and told me you get what u pay for. This is only partly true, the charger was $5 but isnt worth $1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty sure mine is the female USB port too, as my watch was plugged in when it fell so I assume the shock of the male USB caused it to break. Your guess is as good as mine as to if they ever plan on actually fulfilling their promises, they have done a pretty crummy job thus far. The charger is absolute junk, at least if we had the charging cable they initially promised we might be able to work with it a bit more.
trent999 said:
You could make a charger with a dollar store USB charging cable you cut up to expose the +5 and gnd wires, then tape them to the right pins on the back of the watch, carefully.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That isn't a bad idea for a temporary fix but the fact that it even comes down to doing something like that is absurd in my opinion, the charger should have been done and ready while they were dealing with all of the other BS issues.
Well, remember that for most owners the charging cradle they received works fine. It is not that poorly designed - mostly failures reported have been due to shoddy assembly. Similarly careless assembly has been reported on the watch itself in various areas.
I got my extra charger I ordered via Kickstarter, included in the package, but have never tested it nor needed to. I also figured out a way to charge the spare battery with an Anker universal charger, just in case. That charger came free with a couple of VGNexus batteries I bought from Amazon.
You might have better luck with the USB port repair staying fixed if you support its attachment to the board, such as it is, with an application of SuperGlue prior to resoldering the connections.
Holding a cable connector in place via only the contact solders would always be a bad design though.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Right guys I'm so ticked off right now. I bought two adapters. One a couple months ago. I lost it. Another one (the deff one from clove) a few weeks ago. I also lost that. Because they were both £10+ each its pissed me off a bit more.
My question is has anyone bought one which is good and has a strong magnet? I was considering these Sony cables that are on eBay, obviously fakes for the price they are but I'm not sure. What's your guys opinions?
Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk
been using the magnector x for quite a while now and haven't had any issues
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JEN5S6A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1411846758&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Sent from my Xperia Z2 using XDA Free mobile app
Careful.....
.....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Aluminu..._PDA_Cables_Adapters&var=&hash=item1e8ea39e32
Bought this one 4 month ago; works well but be careful not to attach it the wrong way!!!
It will instantly discharge your battery and/or a fried motherboard as happened to me here :
http://forum.xda-developers.com/xperia-z2/help/q-t2846982/post55359250#post55359250
Hi, I recevied a magnetic cable bought on ebay (10 euro). I tried it yesterday for the first time and after 6hours of charger the battery level was 52%. The magnetic connection is no strong and I think that cable doesn't work properly.
I will try to buy the adaptor suggest by @tonysunshine
i brought this one over 6 months ago works perfect only goes on one way says + / - on the plug if put on wrong way phone will turn itself off so not sure how MotoXoom fried his ?
+ goes at the top
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Magnetic-...9H-Reliable-/201075389377?hash=item2ed106f3c1
i haven't used one myself yet. but a friend bought magnector x cable. and it seems to work pretty fine. magnet is strong charges quick. but not as fast as official dock or usb. but it seems pretty nice as most of the cases are not dock compatible.
http://www.amazon.com/Magnector-Per...qid=1411902689&sr=8-1&keywords=magnector+x+z2
I agree the magnector x is pretty good and the magnet is not all that bad, one thing to mention is that the magnector x is not compatible with all cases as the sides may disconnect the magnet.
My first one was the magnector-x but I found with that when I picked up the phone it would just fall off. Same with the deff. The problem I had with that is the fact that the charger wire seemed to be in opposite direction to the connector and therefore ended up not sitting correctly
Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk
I don't understand what you people doing with these third party cables. don't you know that there is an original cable from Sony Coded EC21???
Sent from my D6503 using XDA Free mobile app
Yeah which is not available in all regions. Otherwise I'd definitely get that. I firmly believe in using genuine accessories and not third party
Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk
killalot said:
i brought this one over 6 months ago works perfect only goes on one way says + / - on the plug if put on wrong way phone will turn itself off so not sure how MotoXoom fried his ?
+ goes at the top
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Magnetic-...9H-Reliable-/201075389377?hash=item2ed106f3c1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
MotoXoom bought a charger cable that does not have the cut off feature or detects that the charge has been connected the wrong way. So he basically shorted out hsi phone because it did not cut out. This was NOT a magnector-x adapter
The cable i brought doesn’t have a cut off feature? The phone has it, if you put a positive on a positive the phone shuts off.
As far as I know there is no protection whatsoever except for the mechanical small asymmetry (look at the phone connector and compare the "lower" with "upper" plastic tabs).
Certainly there is no electronic protection in the phone. Some phones survived "reverse connection", some not.
I don't think it can be any electronic protection in the cable or charger; they are designed to give out 0.5-1-2A and certainly that are most likely enough to fry the phone. MAYBE some wimpy chargers aren't capable of that but it's better to assume all are dangerous.
Has anyone ever tried one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161404030047?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Magnetic-...lePhonesCasesPouches&var=&hash=item4d2641788c
Thanks!
Yeah, i have one of those at home... black and shiny blue when plugged.
They work. But i find the charging speed lacking.
well the magnetic charging lasted me a few weeks and now the magnetic charge port is slowly coming off! *sigh* this is most definitely the last sony phone i purchase
A|ex said:
well the magnetic charging lasted me a few weeks and now the magnetic charge port is slowly coming off! *sigh* this is most definitely the last sony phone i purchase
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you tell us the "week" of the device? You can go under the right flap, there's some plastic tray (similar to the sim tray on the left) there should be the IMEI and some other info, including something like 14W15 (meaning for example 2014 week 15). I've heard the ones after 18 shouldn't have the "unglued magnetic port" problem.
But yes, I really had to get the device for the 2 feature missing on most other phone (waterproof with external no-flap-removal charging and lanyard attachment point) but the S5 would've been better in every other way. Including the fact that 5>2 and it seems it counts. Probably Z5 would be perfect, if we ever get to that.
I have a pain in the bum case on atm and it will some work removing it. I just had another look at the magnetic port and yes it can be completely removed by just the magnet. From looking at the port there appears to be two pins and what appears to be some glue in the middle.
Could I not just super glue the port back into the phone?
If I look closely enough I can see that pressing down on the magnetic port opens up a smallish gap which I would assume would let water in.
My magnetic port moves too if a push it (even a little). And it was supposed to be from the new fixed batches.
WTF Sony? Metal and glass phone, parts held together by spit.
tonysunshine said:
been using the magnector x for quite a while now and haven't had any issues
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JEN5S6A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1411846758&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Sent from my Xperia Z2 using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this as well, it's the only adapter that actually charges my phone in my car. Even the stock dock doesn't work! Very good magnet as well.