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So I just picked up the DNA today. Loving it! However, I just noticed that I'm seeing light bleed through on the bottom, just below the capacitive buttons when they're lit up. Anyone have this?? Really disliking this!
Yeah. Pretty common.
It is really easy to fix though and you can do it yourself. Unless you want to keep exchanging them and hoping you find one, this would be a better way.
Go to your local auto parts store and pick up this:
http://www.apmengineparts.com/82180.html?productid=82180&channelid=FROOG
Get the smallest one you can because you are only using a bit.
Take a toothpick and apply it to the bottom of the glass where it meets the plastic. Try to push it into the crack, if possible. Let it sit for a few seconds and then take a paper towel and wipe it off along the crack. DON'T get it into the usb port!
Let it dry for a few hours and you are good as gold. It also has the bonus of increasing water resistance and keeping dust out.
Mine didn't have that at all. I guess I got lucky. I do have a small spot almost dead center on the screen that looks like a bluish smudge though. You can only notice it on a white background. It's musky annoying but faint enough to live with.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda app-developers app
dmbfan13 said:
So I just picked up the DNA today. Loving it! However, I just noticed that I'm seeing light bleed through on the bottom, just below the capacitive buttons when they're lit up. Anyone have this?? Really disliking this!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine does, I hate too, at least I'm not the only one with it. Still debating if I should exchange it or not....
Sent from my HTC Droid DNA
I have two spots on the botton too...never had this issue with LED screens. How likely is it not to have the light bleeds? If this is indeed a common problem for the DNA, I won't bother exchanging mine
another581 said:
I have two spots on the botton too...never had this issue with LED screens. How likely is it not to have the light bleeds? If this is indeed a common problem for the DNA, I won't bother exchanging mine
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Common on Thunderbolt too. Never had Rezound to check.
adrynalyne said:
Common on Thunderbolt too. Never had Rezound to check.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm I guess it isn't something to be concerned about then.
I checked mine again right now in the office restroom with lights off and the phone screening an entirely black image; it does not have any light leakages at its full brightness, but there are two centered light spots triggered by the capacitive buttons that are only visible at the lowest brightness level.
Therefore presumably, turning off the capacitive button lights will eliminate the seemingly light leakages, as they do not seem to be defects caused by the LCD panel itself. But if such a leakage is glowed anywhere else but about the two centered areas just above the capacitive buttons, such as any corners or left/right/upper edges, then it would indeed be a sign of a defective unit.
another581 said:
Hmm I guess it isn't something to be concerned about then.
I checked mine again right now in the office restroom with lights off and the phone screening an entirely black image; it does not have any light leakages at its full brightness, but there are two centered light spots triggered by the capacitive buttons that are only visible at the lowest brightness level.
Therefore presumably, turning off the capacitive button lights will eliminate the seemingly light leakages, as they do not seem to be defects caused by the LCD panel itself. But if such a leakage is glowed anywhere else but about the two centered areas just above the capacitive buttons, such as any corners or left/right/upper edges, then it would indeed be a sign of a defective unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I sealed mine to be safe.
Well in case nobody noticed when the lights are on and you are in a dark room and you tilt the top of the device away from you, when you get to a certain angle you can actually see the light from the buttons because of how the glass is curved. This will appear on every DNA because of the glass. so if you have light coming from BELOW the buttons make sure its not this that you are seeing.
I only have light bleeding through at a certain angle. I may pick up some of that stuff though.
Sent from my HTC DNA
.torrented said:
Well in case nobody noticed when the lights are on and you are in a dark room and you tilt the top of the device away from you, when you get to a certain angle you can actually see the light from the buttons because of how the glass is curved. This will appear on every DNA because of the glass. so if you have light coming from BELOW the buttons make sure its not this that you are seeing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In my case, its coming from the seam between the curved glass and the trim.
Mine too, I can see it from any angle. There's two spots where it bleeds, the gaps between the captive buttons
Sent from my HTC Droid DNA
Well, at least I'm not the only one. Might just try to ignore it...we'll see how that goes...
Yeah I'm still torn about what to do. Kinda want to relock/ruu and exhange but what if the new one has something different wrong with it. This one works great, the bleeding is just visual and only in a very dark room so might just do what adryn did and seal it with some gasket maker
Sent from my HTC Droid DNA
I just sealed mine. Took 5 minutes tops, and only because I was being precise.
No more light bleed and increased resistance to dust and water.
.torrented said:
Well in case nobody noticed when the lights are on and you are in a dark room and you tilt the top of the device away from you, when you get to a certain angle you can actually see the light from the buttons because of how the glass is curved. This will appear on every DNA because of the glass. so if you have light coming from BELOW the buttons make sure its not this that you are seeing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You think that's really what they're seeing? You can't physically stop that without changing the shape of the glass. i prefer the continuous curve over a slight refraction you can't ever see.
drumz0rz said:
You think that's really what they're seeing? You can't physically stop that without changing the shape of the glass. i prefer the continuous curve over a slight refraction you can't ever see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm certain (in my case) that its the glass and the trim.
Nothing a little black silicone doesn't fix. The shape of the glass is not the problem. The problem lies near the capcitive keys where the glass meets the glossy trim. They are two different pieces.
drumz0rz said:
You think that's really what they're seeing? You can't physically stop that without changing the shape of the glass. i prefer the continuous curve over a slight refraction you can't ever see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was just pointing it out just in case... doesn't hurt
Here are some photos of Nexus 10 with backcover removed, you can see the screen is fused inside a frame along with digitiser and gorilla glass, the screws you see is for holding the battery and have no effect on the extent of light bleed.
awesome pictures!
Hm.. Have you tried to turn on the tablet with open cover just to see of the light bleed is still there ?
So I wonder...does it just all snap together during the manufacturing process? If the only screws are for the battery then what is holding the screen assembly to the frame? I hope its not the frame itself causing all the problems...that could take Samsung while to fix if at all :/
davidmclaren said:
Hm.. Have you tried to turn on the tablet with open cover just to see of the light bleed is still there ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
still there
atg284 said:
So I wonder...does it just all snap together during the manufacturing process? If the only screws are for the battery then what is holding the screen assembly to the frame? I hope its not the frame itself causing all the problems...that could take Samsung while to fix if at all :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i guess they are glued together
great photos
have you tried to press at some points to see if the lightbleed changes?
after some speculation i think the backlight on the N10s is set to high
i know that my old Samsung TV looked terrible when using max backlight.
as i dont have any N10 yet (picking it up on friday) im not sure if the brightness slider changes the backlight or the brightness(black level)?
my teory is that the backlight is set at max all the time and you only change the brightness.
thats plain WRONG!
thats why colors looks washed out when increasing the brightness
what you want is also a slider for the backlight
the brightness(black level) should ALLWAYS be the same
if you want a brighter display you should only change the backlight as the backlight doesnt affect colors/black level or gamma.
backlight only increase the white level.
you dont want to change your gamma right?
so hackers and kernel experts
find a way to change the backlight and most of the problems should be gone
i think
also you need to replace or add a slider with backlight setting instead of the brightness slider
I
263629749 said:
i guess they are glued together
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suspect a thin strip of double sided foam tape. Glue aren't typically used on screens as they create fumes which can haze the screen. Atleast not when we install touchscreens for ATM machines. Double sided tapes are easier to apply also. Same process as screen protectors where you have 3 layers with the center being the actual film. In this case center is the double sided tape. Peel one side, put it on the screen then peel off the other side to expose the other sticky side then lay the screen down on the glass. When its not on perfectly is when I suspect light bleed happens.
The huge problem is trying to remove it once its on. You can use heat to try to separate them. With ATM screens they're thicker so somewhat easier to pull them apart as you heat them but with newer phones or tablets they're so thin that if you do this they'll easily crack.
IMO if the light bleed is bugging you just exchange it rather than risk cracking the screen. Then you'll end up completely voiding your warranty exchange
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
Here's a complete tear down. There's no mention of any sketchiness in the way it's put together or components used.
Today we received and promptly disassembled the Google Nexus 10. In usual fashion we’ll release the take apart video next week, but wanted to go ahead and post the preliminary take apart steps and photos. The model we’ve taken apart is the 16GB Wi-FI model. Model # GT-P8110.
One thing that struck us about this disassembly was the complete ease of taking this tablet apart. Whereas Apple seems to be making it more and more difficult to repair devices by combining parts and using as much glue as possible, Google seems to be taking the complete opposite approach. The end result is a device that is extremely repairable. Go Google!
Another interesting note is how many of the components in the device are manufactured by Samsung. It appears that the battery, processor, and flash memory are all made by Samsung. Is this Google’s way of capitalizing on the drift between Apple and Samsung?
That’s it. The Nexus 10 display and digitizer are fused together, so that is where the take apart ends.
http://www.powerbookmedic.com/wordpress/2012/11/16/google-nexus-10-take-apart-first-look
that cable that says "GT-P8110" is very interesting. Might help with Samsung support reps in trying to identify what the device is
http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/GT-P8110HAEXAR
Edit: Hmm, just looked at my N10 box and it has the number as well; not sure how I missed that before.
pg_ice said:
great photos
have you tried to press at some points to see if the lightbleed changes?
after some speculation i think the backlight on the N10s is set to high
i know that my old Samsung TV looked terrible when using max backlight.
as i dont have any N10 yet (picking it up on friday) im not sure if the brightness slider changes the backlight or the brightness(black level)?
my teory is that the backlight is set at max all the time and you only change the brightness.
thats plain WRONG!
thats why colors looks washed out when increasing the brightness
what you want is also a slider for the backlight
the brightness(black level) should ALLWAYS be the same
if you want a brighter display you should only change the backlight as the backlight doesnt affect colors/black level or gamma.
backlight only increase the white level.
you dont want to change your gamma right?
so hackers and kernel experts
find a way to change the backlight and most of the problems should be gone
i think
also you need to replace or add a slider with backlight setting instead of the brightness slider
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its usually the back light led whose brightness is changed thats y u save battery life when u reduce brightness, what ur talking about is the contrast and thats fixed on the tablet, brightness being led light intensity and contrast being each pixel allowing amount of light through it
ok time to get this tablet perfect
i have some slight lightbleed at the bottom right corner as many has.
if i press at the back of the screen at the right corner i can clearly see that the lightbleed gets worse.
so the conclusion is that is has something to do with uneven pressure at the screen when you can affect it with pressure from the back.
i report back how it went and if i found some solution
A little bit off topic here, in regards to thermal throttling, do you think it would be possible to fit a small blower some where up top where the cpu/gpu is located?
Something like this (16mmx16mmx4.5mm):
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dkse...ewproducts=0&ptm=0&fid=0&quantity=0&PV46=5197
It would need to be hooked up to 5V, some where like the USB or HDMI port connections on the inside or on the board.
It looks like there is a small hole underneath the camera in the lid that could act as an exhaust, a very restricted one, and the usb/hdmi/3.5mm ports may help intake and exhaust too.
Hello guys still waiting my Droid DNA here in Greece Europe...Customs Clearance really play with my nerves...so i want you to know that when i will get the phone...i will dissaembly it....The LEDs are on the small bottom bored which is with the speaker. I need to solder them off (there is two of them) and then solder red leds back on. Oh and the leds are not from the lcd screen, they are seperate. i know how to solder and that's the only way to change the leds....i have 2 questions though and if you can answer i will be glad...i will make a guide when i will do it....the 2 questions are:
1)If i put multicolor LEDS is there any app to control them so i can put what colour i want any time?
2)if i dissaembly the phone and then re-assembly it the construction will be still solid..or for example the back cover will be cracky etc?
Yes, there are apps in the market currently to play with leds. If you search you should be able to find it.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA Premium App
Djmk4 said:
Hello guys still waiting my Droid DNA here in Greece Europe...Customs Clearance really play with my nerves...so i want you to know that when i will get the phone...i will dissaembly it....The LEDs are on the small bottom bored which is with the speaker. I need to solder them off (there is two of them) and then solder red leds back on. Oh and the leds are not from the lcd screen, they are seperate. i know how to solder and that's the only way to change the leds....i have 2 questions though and if you can answer i will be glad...i will make a guide when i will do it....the 2 questions are:
1)If i put multicolor LEDS is there any app to control them so i can put what colour i want any time?
2)if i dissaembly the phone and then re-assembly it the construction will be still solid..or for example the back cover will be cracky etc?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1), no you can only change the base color. you cannot add multicolored LEDs, and expect to control them with no control hardware.
2) there is a very good chance the back will creak, it IS a PITA to get it back to perfect. but doable.
3) (my additions) if you are not using a fine tip solder station, OR hot air, then good luck not destroying what you are soldering. and in general, solder paste is the only way to go with SMC. you can do it with wire, but the chances of overheat, or flux burning away is VERY high. i've already soldered a few things on this phone, I will tell you this is by far the cheapest PCB i've touched. pads peel off, etc.
Djmk4 said:
Hello guys still waiting my Droid DNA here in Greece Europe...Customs Clearance really play with my nerves...so i want you to know that when i will get the phone...i will dissaembly it....The LEDs are on the small bottom bored which is with the speaker. I need to solder them off (there is two of them) and then solder red leds back on. Oh and the leds are not from the lcd screen, they are seperate. i know how to solder and that's the only way to change the leds....i have 2 questions though and if you can answer i will be glad...i will make a guide when i will do it....the 2 questions are:
1)If i put multicolor LEDS is there any app to control them so i can put what colour i want any time?
2)if i dissaembly the phone and then re-assembly it the construction will be still solid..or for example the back cover will be cracky etc?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
SMD soldering is always a drag, make sure you have a good quality iron up for the job. Also make sure to use flux, rose alloy, and a nice new tip. It is also crucial to use an iron which can be grounded.
To be perfectly honest you should opt for adding a sheet of transparent vinyl film, or something similar, between the LED's and the glass.
Here are some links which might help:
[HACKS] OG Droid gets blue capacitive buttons, charing LED swap, and sound reactive LED!
DIY : Custom Colored Capacitive Buttons
droidxrooting said:
Yes, there are apps in the market currently to play with leds. If you search you should be able to find it.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA Premium App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is false. The apps deal with notification and other LEDs which are already multicolor and have a supporting hardware and software interface, the apps just use the existing interfaces. What the OP wants to do is impossible as there is no interface to control the hardware aside from off and on. Additionally multicolor LEDs are a single physical thing but actually have multiple LEDs in the physical package. Each individual color needs its own power source which would also not work with the OP's project. If he attached the multicolored LED he'd likely have all the colors lit at once all the time.
@OP, use a single color and be careful. Soldering SMDs manually is always a challenge but can be done if you have a steady enough hand.
Hey guys, today I dropped my HOX+ (International), not for the first time, but this time the glass shattered.
Ofcourse I don't want to spend buckets for some professionals, I will try to do it on my own.
Only the glass broke, touch is still fine. Only thing I noticed are 2 little holes in the glass where
the colors seem a little bit orange. Now my questions are:
1.Is it possible to only swap the digitizer (glass) or is it too hard glued together with the LCD panel?
2.Are the orange spots (you can barely see them) a problem or the LCD panel or will they
be fixed with a new digitizer?
3.Which HOX models have the same screen as the X+, I heard the international HOX has the same,
is that true?
4.Are the LEDs of the HOX+ menu buttons red or is it just the digitizer? White buttons would look great, too.
5.Do I really need replacementkits for like 60 euro with tools and all that stuff or can I do it with my own tools
at home? My father is not a professional but he already fixed all kinds of electronic things, I got his help.
6.If replacing only the digitizer is possible should I do it or would u recommend to replace the whole screen,
that would also prevent dust in the screen.
7.In many videos they didn't shut down the phone so they could test whether it worked, is that recommended or can I break smth?
That's all I had to ask, tell me which mistakes you did or some tips etc.
Hope I get some fast responses, so I know which things to order, thanks in advance
Tazmaniiac said:
Hey guys, today I dropped my HOX+ (International), not for the first time, but this time the glass shattered.
Ofcourse I don't want to spend buckets for some professionals, I will try to do it on my own.
Only the glass broke, touch is still fine. Only thing I noticed are 2 little holes in the glass where
the colors seem a little bit orange. Now my questions are:
1.Is it possible to only swap the digitizer (glass) or is it too hard glued together with the LCD panel?
2.Are the orange spots (you can barely see them) a problem or the LCD panel or will they
be fixed with a new digitizer?
3.Which HOX models have the same screen as the X+, I heard the international HOX has the same,
is that true?
4.Are the LEDs of the HOX+ menu buttons red or is it just the digitizer? White buttons would look great, too.
5.Do I really need replacementkits for like 60 euro with tools and all that stuff or can I do it with my own tools
at home? My father is not a professional but he already fixed all kinds of electronic things, I got his help.
6.If replacing only the digitizer is possible should I do it or would u recommend to replace the whole screen,
that would also prevent dust in the screen.
7.In many videos they didn't shut down the phone so they could test whether it worked, is that recommended or can I break smth?
That's all I had to ask, tell me which mistakes you did or some tips etc.
Hope I get some fast responses, so I know which things to order, thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
first of all sorry for the screen.
1 . you can't change the glass only because its one part at all. like the glass,touch panel and the LCD are the same piece its too hard to separate them unless you have a IR Oven. so try the whole screen replacement. the international HOX screen is ok but the capacitive buttons will be white not red.
ps:don't try to open the chase with your own unless you know what you are doing . cuz i opened mine for like 20 times and every time i was breaking something in it. Mostly the power switch flex is real easy to be broken. good luck with that.
ps2: im suggesting you to buy the original spare of the hox+ screen and replace with that. you can do it with the box one but I'm not very sure the screen voltages are the same or compatible totally..
peace :angel:
So I am back again:
I took a new One X Plus Screen and built it in the phone..
I can turn it on, my PC detects the device, menu buttons are glowing. Now 4 problems:
-LCD is not working (digitizer works fine, I tested it with swipe to wake)
-vibrator thing is not working
-speakers not working
-menu button LEDs are glowing, but u can't see the buttons itself glow, only the LEDs are glowing
I am pretty sure that everything is plugged in how it should be done, any ideas?
Don't have a phone right now so fast help would be appreciated, thanks in advance.
Edit:
-vibrator thing is actually working, it was just blocked by something
-Menu buttons can't glow because there is something between LEDs and the screen, gonna fix that later
-speakers can't work because they are in the housing, sry for that mistake
Now the only problem left is the lcd, i am going to check again whether the lcd cable
is connected or not. If you have any ideas for other reasons why the lcd could not wok
please tell me.
Another question: under the menu buttons of my old screen were 3 transparent plastic pieces,
at first I thought it were the leds, but they are actually nothing electrical, just plastic pieces
glued on the screen. What are they for, do I have to keep them?
So my girlfriend dropped her s3 the other night , the screen stays off ( does not light up ) but the touch sensors still work, we can answer calls on it by knowing the approximate location of the answer button, any thoughts on what the issue is ? I would prefer to repair this at home rather than make her pay money through a shop, thanks in advance
Darknod66 said:
So my girlfriend dropped her s3 the other night , the screen stays off ( does not light up ) but the touch sensors still work, we can answer calls on it by knowing the approximate location of the answer button, any thoughts on what the issue is ? I would prefer to repair this at home rather than make her pay money through a shop, thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is easy to replace broken GLASS.
but i think you will need to replace screen.
If you purchase assembly of glass, digitizer and screen it will be very easy to replace by yourself.
quaker1985 said:
It is easy to replace broken GLASS.
but i think you will need to replace screen.
If you purchase assembly of glass, digitizer and screen it will be very easy to replace by yourself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The glass isnt broken, perfectly clean with no scratches cracks or nicks , it just wont light up;
i had the same problem once, had to be sent to samsung (or wherever) by the shop where i bought it
buying a display and metal frame (obviously you can't buy them seperatly) plus glass would have cost almost the same
i wanted to find out whether the screen still works and it's a problem with my motherboard or vice versa so i unscrewed all bolts to access where the screen is plugged in on the motherboard but i didn't have another s3 to do the same and check it :silly:
still don't know how amoled displays work so it might be possible that whatever's responsible for backlighting the display broke
w0rinal said:
i had the same problem once, had to be sent to samsung (or wherever) by the shop where i bought it
buying a display and metal frame (obviously you can't buy them seperatly) plus glass would have cost almost the same
i wanted to find out whether the screen still works and it's a problem with my motherboard or vice versa so i unscrewed all bolts to access where the screen is plugged in on the motherboard but i didn't have another s3 to do the same and check it :silly:
still don't know how amoled displays work so it might be possible that whatever's responsible for backlighting the display broke
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My thought was that the backlight broke or maybe the entire display system is disconnected , I might just have to take it apart for an exploratory operation,
before it went completely black there was a purple stain which grew until two thirds of my display were purple, the lower part where it started was black.
then i managed to open this samsung hardware debugging menu where you can check for dead pixels by letting your display light up in red, green and blue. there i found out that only blue and green pixels very working correctly in the upper third. the next day every purple pixel was dead.
so 2 months after this little stain appeared my whole display was in the same state as your girlfriend's seem to be now.
so i don't think this plug (it sits in place pretty tight) got loose and that's why it doesn't work anymore.
and my sister had exactly your problem. she dropped her s2 and it immediately went black
she hat to sent it in as well ...
good luck
if you find out what's the problem and want to share it, i am curious about it as well
If possible, check for loose connectors first.
I don't know about replacing the screen. The sheer amount of LOCA makes it a messy job.
Probably the display is dead. You'd need to replace the screen+glass.
There is no back light on an oled screen.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk