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My battery has gone to hell. After getting it down to 5% one day, it just would not hold a charge long. Then I got it down to 10% a week later, and it really got bad. Life is about 1/3 what it used to be. I also have some dust and even small hairs or flecks in the screen.
So...I ordered a new advance replacement unit from T-Mobile, and it just arrived. Simple enough? Well, I have the memory upgrade in mine, so I need to do some component swapping. What's the best way to go about this? What parts can be disconnected easily (or more importantly, reconnected)? Where is the damn battery (didn't see it in the disassembly photos on the site)?
Hi,
Carlos said:
So...I ordered a new advance replacement unit from T-Mobile, and it just arrived. Simple enough? Well, I have the memory upgrade in mine, so I need to do some component swapping. What's the best way to go about this? What parts can be disconnected easily (or more importantly, reconnected)? Where is the damn battery (didn't see it in the disassembly photos on the site)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please specify 'component swapping' in more detail... Are you actually thinking about swapping the memory upgrade??? You do know that that would mean desoldering the 2 big memory chips on both boards, cleaning them and the boards, and soldering them back... How good are you at smd soldering??? We haven't dared doing that, yet... (some pics of upgrading memory of an iPaq are available at http://www.linearlogix.com/ipaq/upgradereview.html
There are commercial services doing the upgrade (32 -> 64 mb), if I were you I'd contact one of those.
Other than that, we're currently swapping lcd screens, touchpanels, mainboards from 3 broken units to create 2 working units and 1 very broken one. So, what do you need to know exactly?
BTW, the battery is stuck on the inside of the back cover.
XDA developer bigmac (taking pictures of the open units right now...)
No, no, I can solder normal stuff, but not that. I mean, I assume what I need to do is keep my own motherboard. I'd like the screen, case, and battery from the new unit. On the radio section, I suppose it doesn't matter either way. So I incorrectly said "component" when what I really meant was "board," and desired advice on doing that.
The hazards of posting in the middle of the night after too much work.
Carlos said:
No, no, I can solder normal stuff, but not that. I mean, I assume what I need to do is keep my own motherboard. I'd like the screen, case, and battery from the new unit. On the radio section, I suppose it doesn't matter either way. So I incorrectly said "component" when what I really meant was "board," and desired advice on doing that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, so you want to use the screen/touchpanel/backlight assembly from the new one (smart move, not taking that apart; besides the fact that it's glued together and you need to separate it on the correct separation, that also leaves the risk of forgetting the correct orientation of the glass panel with little dots on it, used to distribute the backlight evently onto the lcd; and, there are slightly different assemblies out there which need slightly different panels...). You should keep all boards from the old unit (old mainboard including old radio unit, use the new screen/touchpanel/backlight assemly, and the new case (which includes the new battery).
You could consider swapping IMEI numbers on the units... Although _shops_ never register the numbers when they give out units, service departments might. You know where to find the tool to do that...
The screwing around of the parts should not take more than half an hour if it's the first time you take apart this unit (but have taken apart small electronics before) and less if you've done it before.
Beware of the really thin clear plastic rings used under the screws to screw down the display...
We won't be publishing a very detailed 'how to swap your screen' instruction any time soon but do have some raw unedited pictures of the operation. I'll see if we can get them online any time soon.
Have fun,
XDA developer bigmac
I ended up doing the change and ran into a snag--the plastic pin that sticks out of the top power button was loose or broken (probably happened in one of the many drops the unit has experienced). When I opened the case, I lost that. Had to send it to PPC Techs to have them solder in a new power switch.
Other than that, disassembly is pretty easy and straightforward. You mentioned you won't publish a how-to...is that because of not wanting to have it on the site, or that nobody wants to write one? If the latter, I'd be happy to write it up and include my detailed pics.
If you want to make a detailed howto on how to open and close the unit, and how to exchange certain parts, we will gladly put it on!
Do make sure to stress that people need a certain level of experience or be willing to risk losing the device though...
READ THIS POST AND POST 74 AND FURTHER
Have you ever seen such quality in the GPS signals and the fixes? (picture 1)
Ever since I got my TFP in early January I have been trying to find a way to enhance the GPS and the Wifi. I read just about all the threads on these subjects and tried every tweak. Even the crazy ones ;-) But because of the form factor I wasn't going to drill holes and put antennas on the back (respect guys, awesome work)
It started with a poster that got flamed straight away. He put a phone on the top right hand corner and got a better GPS. I felt sorry for him because everyone treated him like a retard. Just for the sake of being able to put the flamers in their spot I gave his idea a chance.
And it worked!!! But it was not practical. I can't walk around with a phone pressed against my TFP. But it was a start. Something started happening.
Next came the screwdriver trick. Even better result. Then I discovered the paperclip trick. Again improvement. But still not good enough and certainly not stable. It was difficult to reproduce. It became clear to me that positioning was very critical.
On the Wifi side people started enhancing their signal by placing foil the right Wifi antenna. Then they started using beer cans. It worked for some. But for others it didn't work. Theory was that somehow the Wifi signal got shielded forcing the other Wifi antenna to kick in. Tried it. Worked sometimes and at other moments didn't work. But there was something. And again it became clear to me that positioning was very critical.
Furthermore I started fooling around with grounding to the back plate. It had a dramatic effect on Wifi and GPS. As soon as something touches the back plate the signals die. I got the impression that the Wifi and GPS antenna were to close to each other and with all the RF signals they were screwing each other.
But all together there were things happening. I started documenting exact positions and sizes of the tweaks I was applying. Wifi was reasonable for me as long as I had a good base signal. GPS had my attention. I could get an external GPS, I could tether from my phone, I could buy a map, I could ask directions.
But NO!!!!
I wanted the GPS inside the Prime to get a reasonable fix.
It has cost me a lot of hours of trying, tweaking, adapting, and documenting.
But......
I FOUND THE 10 CENTS SOLUTION!!!
You only need to buy a 1 mm stainless steel cable.
Instructions (also see diagram):
1. First get yourself a beer. And drink it (this is the best part)
2. Then cut yourself a square 15x25 mm from the can (carefull)
3. Stick it in the right place onto the glass
4. Make sure it is isolated with electical tape on the topside
5. Place steel cable across the isolated square (I don’t know if this matters but I used 9,75 mm length = 0,5 x wavelength of GPS)
6. Fix it in place with electrical tape
And ......
ENJOY A GOOD GPS (better than my HTC Sensation)
Up to now this is the best result I can get.
Probably sizes and locations can be optimized.
However my experience is that the cable has to extend outside the plane of the TFP. Either vertical or horizontal. As long as it is inside the confines and flat on the glass of the TFP the signal dies instantly
And the electrical tape on top can be exchanged for something better looking.
Customize it like a sticker of a mouse with the tail being the steel cable.
Or a droid sticker with antenna ears upwards.
Outside and in the car I get a 4 second lock and after 10 seconds 15 sats and 10 locked. Inside has improved but not really good enough.
I have reset the prime before testing, cleared AGPS and Wifi off.
I hope you guys enjoy and appreciate my solution.
And if someone finds a better or more elegant solution please post.
Have fun
Oh I forgot to mention. The trick also works with the paperclip. Use a small paperclip. When straightened the length is 95 mm. Also works. I turned to the steel cable because I wanted something flexible.
very cool.
I currently have a beer can piece myself on my prime
-not as precise as yours, but it improves my wifi
not a beer, but after this j i shall try!
You guys are awesome....I've been looking for this all day..... a reason to drink beer tonight ^_^ oh and a possible gps solution without opening my TFP
Does yours maintain GPS lock while moving at highways speeds?
wynand32 said:
Does yours maintain GPS lock while moving at highways speeds?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll test that. Drink beer and going high speed on the autobahn
wynand32 said:
Does yours maintain GPS lock while moving at highways speeds?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
YEP
Perfect turn by turn navigation.
On the highway about 10 locks and in urban area a minimum of 6 locks.
And all the time average 14 sats in sight.
I have not tried it yet in an area with very tall buildings.
I think the highest buildings during my tests were 6 floors.
If this can be independently verified (and sounds like it can be), then someone could definitely make a little money with this. Not enough to retire on, but a little spending money.
A question: could this be made into something that could clip onto the Prime and so be easily added/removed? While I wouldn't tape anything to my Prime, I'd clip something on it if I were to want GPS to work (which I don't actually, but being speculative here).
wynand32 said:
If this can be independently verified (and sounds like it can be), then someone could definitely make a little money with this. Not enough to retire on, but a little spending money.
A question: could this be made into something that could clip onto the Prime and so be easily added/removed? While I wouldn't tape anything to my Prime, I'd clip something on it if I were to want GPS to work (which I don't actually, but being speculative here).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes can be done.
I have been trying some solutions myself.
But the positioning turned out to be a critical factor.
Had to work that out first.
Wanted to share those results first.
But some sort of minimized and customisable clip on device would be nice.
Either pimped or just simple
I'm thinking you could use a simple clip like we use at home for potato chip bags. Line the inside of one part of the clip with the require metal, add in the wire, and then you could simply clip it on when you need GPS. Those clips aren't particularly strong, either, so no worries about damaging the Prime.
I might give this a shot myself this week, if I get some time.
The 12 Steps to ruin.... and a Hangover
My attempt (not really but could be fun)
1. Drink one can, cut open and place on screen.
Tape was too old. Can kept falling off.
2. Get another can and drink then place on screen again.
New tape stayed on but can didn't work.
3. Get yet another beer. Had a brainstorm idea to try doing the same for Wifi... got another beer.
Drank beers, needed a pee. Wife threw out the empties.
4. Got another two beers. Rang friend to ask if he had a beeter metal cutter....
5. Got two more beers then forgot what I was doing.
6. Glot two more bbers. Needed another pee.... Came back stood on berr cans. They were hiding on the floor.
7. Grot a new crate of beers in from the sheller hic! Drunk clan cut finger with can opener. Oh Eck...
8. Opened nudder bleer. Got drill out and dilled lotsh of oles on can.
Bol*x.... need a pee.
9. Sloped can wid whisky bottle... Poored whiskey on wire... Sh1t.. where da fcuk did wire come ffrommm???
10. Passt hammmmer to schreen. Bloke grass an spong at glue.
11. Glue noo worrrk. Need beeerr. hic!
12. Shud not put fingerss in live lectric shockket!
Fin............. Dont work.
zzzzZZzzZzzzzZzzzzzz
So I guess the prime as a glorified beer coaster wasnt too far off since it can improve signal strength.
hey guys come on.
I'm trying to start a serious thread and now you are turning it into something hilarious.
Well they always say 'keep on smiling'.
Had a great laugh.
Great story.
Let's see if thereś any beer left.
Cheers guys
Jesus.. you couldn't pay me to do this.
BTW, I got better than you without this nasty hack. I have screenshots of 18ft right in my backyard. No tin foil, no duct tape, not guitar/bike wire.
But none of it matters... AS YOU CANT DRIVE AND GET IT TO WORK
Lock-N-Load said:
Jesus.. you couldn't pay me to do this.
BTW, I got better than you without this nasty hack. I have screenshots of 18ft right in my backyard. No tin foil, no duct tape, not guitar/bike wire.
But none of it matters... AS YOU CANT DRIVE AND GET IT TO WORK
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
VVVVVVVV
dingdonggggg said:
YEP
Perfect turn by turn navigation.
On the highway about 10 locks and in urban area a minimum of 6 locks.
And all the time average 14 sats in sight.
I have not tried it yet in an area with very tall buildings.
I think the highest buildings during my tests were 6 floors.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually just got 18 ft in my brother's front yard Same place I kept getting nada for a couple weeks. No mods, but not stable either. Soon I'll have external antenna and be done with it
*EDIT: Obviously with data on, but I was getting 1 bird in and out of view with the same setup pre-.15. That is not to say .15 in any way helped this.
**EDIT:
PM'd you
VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
Buxtahuda,
So what antenna will you be using?
dingdonggggg said:
Have you ever seen such quality in the GPS signals and the fixes? (picture 1)
Ever since I got my TFP in early January I have been trying to find a way to enhance the GPS and the Wifi. I read just about all the threads on these subjects and tried every tweak. Even the crazy ones ;-) But because of the form factor I wasn't going to drill holes and put antennas on the back (respect guys, awesome work)
It started with a poster that got flamed straight away. He put a phone on the top right hand corner and got a better GPS. I felt sorry for him because everyone treated him like a retard. Just for the sake of being able to put the flamers in their spot I gave his idea a chance.
And it worked!!! But it was not practical. I can't walk around with a phone pressed against my TFP. But it was a start. Something started happening.
Next came the screwdriver trick. Even better result. Then I discovered the paperclip trick. Again improvement. But still not good enough and certainly not stable. It was difficult to reproduce. It became clear to me that positioning was very critical.
On the Wifi side people started enhancing their signal by placing foil the right Wifi antenna. Then they started using beer cans. It worked for some. But for others it didn't work. Theory was that somehow the Wifi signal got shielded forcing the other Wifi antenna to kick in. Tried it. Worked sometimes and at other moments didn't work. But there was something. And again it became clear to me that positioning was very critical.
Furthermore I started fooling around with grounding to the back plate. It had a dramatic effect on Wifi and GPS. As soon as something touches the back plate the signals die. I got the impression that the Wifi and GPS antenna were to close to each other and with all the RF signals they were screwing each other.
But all together there were things happening. I started documenting exact positions and sizes of the tweaks I was applying. Wifi was reasonable for me as long as I had a good base signal. GPS had my attention. I could get an external GPS, I could tether from my phone, I could buy a map, I could ask directions.
But NO!!!!
I wanted the GPS inside the Prime to get a reasonable fix.
It has cost me a lot of hours of trying, tweaking, adapting, and documenting.
But......
I FOUND THE 10 CENTS SOLUTION!!!
You only need to buy a 1 mm stainless steel cable.
Instructions (also see diagram):
1. First get yourself a beer. And drink it (this is the best part)
2. Then cut yourself a square 15x25 mm from the can (carefull)
3. Stick it in the right place onto the glass
4. Make sure it is isolated with electical tape on the topside
5. Place steel cable across the isolated square (I don’t know if this matters but I used 9,75 mm length = 0,5 x wavelength of GPS)
6. Fix it in place with electrical tape
And ......
ENJOY A GOOD GPS (better than my HTC Sensation)
Up to now this is the best result I can get.
Probably sizes and locations can be optimized.
However my experience is that the cable has to extend outside the plane of the TFP. Either vertical or horizontal. As long as it is inside the confines and flat on the glass of the TFP the signal dies instantly
And the electrical tape on top can be exchanged for something better looking.
Customize it like a sticker of a mouse with the tail being the steel cable.
Or a droid sticker with antenna ears upwards.
Outside and in the car I get a 4 second lock and after 10 seconds 15 sats and 10 locked. Inside has improved but not really good enough.
I have reset the prime before testing, cleared AGPS and Wifi off.
I hope you guys enjoy and appreciate my solution.
And if someone finds a better or more elegant solution please post.
Have fun
Oh I forgot to mention. The trick also works with the paperclip. Use a small paperclip. When straightened the length is 95 mm. Also works. I turned to the steel cable because I wanted something flexible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks like it close to the location for the Easy Wifi Improvement Mod only with the added wire.
PolishPoet said:
Looks like it close to the location for the Easy Wifi Improvement Mod only with the added wire.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that's the point.
Kill the primary WiFi (if that's what it does... and I think it does) with the aluminum, then use the wire as a conductor for the GPS signal, just kind of funneling it to the right area for the internal antenna to get a concentrated blast. Per RF theory I've seen around here, the signal then doesn't need a hard line to the antenna, it'll travel that little gap from covered wire to antenna easily.
hey! That crazy asian with the phone on the corner was me! I've been meaning to post my further investigation on this and this is what I did.
1. Bought a Moco case on Amazon for like $12.
2. Put Prime in case.
3. Cut a 5 inch speaker wire. The tiny ones, not monster cable but them average size wire about 22 gauge (?).
4. Place the wire under the case but above the Prime in same location as yours. It stuck out so I bent the end and tucked it into the headphone opening.
5. Went for a drive. I drive a bronco and with the case set up to stand the Prime up, I was able to watch GPS test as I drove. Kept very steady GPS lock with no less than 4 at a time. Tried Google maps with Bluetooth data tethering to my phone to draw map and now I have a 10.1 in screen gps !
I think getting a case (any case) is a good investment for your Prime. It can also very casually and discreetly hide any of these " additions" to your Prime to enhance certain features like those with the foil wifi "mod".
So I didn't get to drink any beer but I sure will not drink scotch out a can!
OMG beard, too funny ...lmao....
Hi there,
as i wrote in the Rainbow Mod for Lumia 800 thread, i'll try to restore DLOAD, update to latest FW, and restore Qualcomm (all with ATF Testpoint) again, that i can give you updated files on Partition 3 of the phone, that the latest rainbow mod build will be working on all phones...
But it seemed that i had a pretty shaky hand, when i was soldering my device, that i "destroyed" a component.
First, it was still fitting, but a little "twistet" as you can see on the pictures attached.
I checked if the phone is still working, and it did, except the "light sensor" which turns off the display when making a call... I can now cancel the call with my ear accidently
I realised an extreme heat and battery consumption when making a call... but maybe it just seems so, because i'm looking for "mistakes" because of the broken component...
Then, because of this, i disassembled my phone again, to check the component... and i just touched it a little bit, and now it fell off...
The component i'm talking about is called "L1605" in the schematics plan, so it should be a "coil" (hope this is correct, as English isn't my native lang...)
Of course, because it "fell off", i don't know how it was placed before. Does a coil have a "polarity", i mean "+" or "-" ? or can i just solder it back onto the mainboard?
i hope you can help me
cheers
hi there,
i searched again and found out, that the "L1605" is an "27nH_0402". In the schematics plan it's part of the "reciever", as you can see in the image attached.
Can you tell me if this coil is important? It "just" goes to GND, so maybe it would be enough to just connect the to pins (were the coil was placed) with some solder ?
It also seems to be part of "FM & GND", so maybe it's just important for FM Radio? I don't use this anyway...
pls help!
i guess it has no polarity...but if u could upload a more detailed picture maybe i can see it clearly..
or search for ( as u can see the black component which has a white sign near the two condensator - it has polarity ) signs, i mean +, or a little colored circle on the component, or some cut-off and if it has one of these it has polarity.
what kind of paste did u use for the soldering? leadless or pb? it does matter.
ps : L means Inductor
It's a simple inductor. You can just solder it back in. It has no polarity.
Do not shorten the contacts. The circuit will probably behave bad.
hi there,
can you recommend me any "special" hardware?
With links would be great!
I only have an ordinary soldering-iron, whrere the tip is 3 times larger then the component
cheers
Here is some of the equipment I use for such a fix:
* Weller WES51 soldering station
* Weller ETU soldering iron fine tip
* curved fine tip tweezers
* straight tip dissection probe
* 20x stereo microscope
* solder
The WES51 soldering iron is available for under US $100 online (Amazon and elsewhere) with a variety of replacement tips available for about US $5 each, and I recommend it if you will be doing much soldering. Otherwise, you can probably find a cheaper one with a fine tip, but without temperature control. When soldering and desoldering small two contact components such as your broken inductor, the best method I've found is to use a second soldering iron so you can melt the solder on both the pads at the same time. Small components are hard to handle, so tweezers and a long sharp needle / dissection tip are very helpful. It's hard to see what you are doing at that scale, so a stereo microscope is almost mandatory. AmScope has some cheap microscopes that are adequate for this purpose, or you can find a fancier used one on eBay. My only complaints with the AmScope microscope I have is that the depth of field is somewhat shallow and I need to get my face closer to the work area than I would like. You can use and lead/tin alloy or lead-free solder designed for electronics use to do a fix like this. Lead / tin alloy solder melts at a lower temperature and is much easier to work with than lead-free solder but may not be as easily available in some countries.
I can't tell for sure without a bill of materials for the phone, but based on what you've said it seems like the replacement part is a 27 nH air core inductor 0402 size such as Murata LQW15AN27NJ00D, which is easily available through Digi-Key and possibly other online electronics component vendors.
Hey all -
My wife, deep in the midst of pregnancy-brain, washed her beloved Fireball a couple weeks ago. Long story short, she tried to power it up too soon, and now the LCD backlight is dead.
Everything else seems to function fine, so I decided to see if there was something obvious that could be fixed. Sure enough, at one of the connections between screen and mainboard, there looked to be some small electrical POOF type scarring. One of the traces on the ribbon cable is missing a chunk of conductive material right next to the connection, so it would seem replacing the whole assembly (digitizer/LCD) should restore function. Except - right next to that spot on the mainboard is what looks like it might be a diode that might have seen better days. I'm not sure, and I haven't been able to find any closeups of the inside of the phone to verify what it's supposed to look like.
So what I'm wondering is if anyone here can take a peek at these pics, note the potential damaged area, and tell me if that little bit of badness means I have to toss the phone.
Thanks!
Hi guys. I've been working on a RN2 for a while now and something has been bothering me.
BACKGROUND
___
Basically, it was a side phone I kept in emergency but as you know siblings who can't keep stuff safe, I ended up lending it to him (after having it broken by my other sibling and having to change the screen) and he ALSO broke it, so I changed it again.
___
Now, my problem is the following:
When I was working on the screen, I noticed it wouldn't turn on again, so, after buying aforementioned screen, I placed it and it still didn't turn on. When I tried the heat measuring, I noticed it was heating around the area where you plug the flex cable (black cable with 2 identical plugs that connects the charge module (which I also changed) and the motherboard. The heat is on the side of the MB. I tried to switch the plug backwards but it doesn't work either (and doesn't fit as it is backwards). I bought another flex cable (Theseus' boat much) and it still heated up. So it finally comes to the fact that the issue is in the MB. (I guess ?) Thing is, I don't know what exactly. Does anyone have any idea?
Thanks in advance, I've been on this for a few months now (working it when I have time).
All you can do is look visible damage like a cracked solder joint.
BGA chipsets solder joints can't be examined because they are underneath of them.
Any impact great enough to damage the display or frame could damage the mobo.
Examine your work. Are ground pathways present especially if the phone is "open"?
Look for damaged ribbon cable and connector pins. Try disconnecting/reconnecting the battery (hard reboot).
blackhawk said:
All you can do is look visible damage like a cracked solder joint.
BGA chipsets solder joints can't be examined because they are underneath of them.
Any impact great enough to damage the display or frame could damage the mobo.
Examine your work. Are ground pathways present especially if the phone is "open"?
Look for damaged ribbon cable and connector pins. Try disconnecting/reconnecting the battery (hard reboot).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HI, thanks so much for the quick reply! Unfortunately, I didn't see anything. I might come back to it with a better lens tomorrow for the week end. Would it be necessary to post a picture or two here tomorrow, to have a more professional opinion?
Thanks!
Iliassine said:
HI, thanks so much for the quick reply! Unfortunately, I didn't see anything. I might come back to it with a better lens tomorrow for the week end. Would it be necessary to post a picture or two here tomorrow, to have a more professional opinion?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome.
I'm afraid though that I contributed little to your cause...
You can try gently flexing the pcb and pressing on components with a pencil, eraser end to try to localize the trouble. The mobo is likely toast though if that's the cause. Mobo diagnostics just aren't available except at the manufacturer's level. Even then most repairs require a hot air station and a high level skillset to execute successfully. A few 3rd party shops probably rework them if there's high enough demand.
Always use a good case to protect internal components as well as the display and frame.
blackhawk said:
You're welcome.
I'm afraid though that I contributed little to your cause...
You can try gently flexing the pcb and pressing on components with a pencil, eraser end to try to localize the trouble. The mobo is likely toast though if that's the cause. Mobo diagnostics just aren't available except at the manufacturer's level. Even then most repairs require a hot air station and a high level skillset to execute successfully. A few 3rd party shops probably rework them if there's high enough demand.
Always use a good case to protect internal components as well as the display and frame.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh no, you did great! You gave me probably more information than I found the last few months! I will try the eraser thing, maybe I'll have some luck. I didn't really touch the board unless the un clip removal of components bands. I will take it down and see if this is what is going on! Thank you. I will keep the thread up to see if someone else has ideas and keep you updated!
Examine the mobo under an excellent high lumen point light source and use optical aids. Stereoscopic ones are best for this. Examine at different angles to look for solder cracks. They tend to be difficult to spot.
Remember out of circuit assemblies like the mobo are sensitive to ESD damage. Use a bare wood surface if no ESD mat/wrist strap are available. Raise room humidity to at least 50%.
Wear cotton not wool or synthetics.
Discharging yourself directly to an earth ground immediately before handling it helps. Nearly every object can retain a static charge to one degree or another even paper. Humidity helps to dissipate it once present but almost any material movement/friction can generate it.