Related
Ok, it seems like every picture taken under the conditions mentioned above(sorry forgot to write them: natural light, inside my room, pretty much a well lit room, besides the fact i didn't turn on the lights) and everything else set on auto, have the same result. I get either a blurry shot, without the antishake option and a noisy one, when having antishake on.
Also i would like to mention, that this particular behaviour happens in a rather well lit environment. The only time i get acceptable results is when i go out and shoot in the natural sunlight.
Is this normal?
You didn't list any conditions above.
Let me just add some examples, maybe you will understand what i'm talking about a little bit better
1. camera ics+
2. camera zoom fx
3. stock samsung camera
4. lg camera pro
Your iso settings are wrong. Change it to auto.
Sent from my LG-P920 using xda premium
As i already mentioned, my iso settings are set to auto. Any ideas?
i m having same issues, suddenly, the in door shots are coming with horrible noise
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
it's normal for a cell phone camera - or any type of small sensor camera, actually
Well then, why other camera apps shoot a little bit better? My old Samsung Omnia was a better shooter in this regard. Also, could you provide some photos too?
Scratch.
You edited your post.
Sent from my LG-P920 using xda premium
I did, but my iso is always on auto nevertheless
I would try three things:
- Set ISO manually. I don't have an S3, but with my S2 I get the best results by setting ISO manually.
- Turn antishake off. In general, electronic stabilization adds noise (unlike mechanical/optical stabilization which does not add noise).
- Try to hold the phone a still as possible while taking the picture.
That said, keep in mind that any small sensor camera like what you have in any phone is not going to perform well without good lighting. However the S3 should be one of the best of the phone cameras.
yes u r right that while using antishake option it produces noise thats y its off by default!! and u r wrong that it is blurry bcoz if antishake is off my gs3 takes noise free perfect pictures its has a gud BSI sensor (Cmos) try not to shake ur hands while taking pic.!
contrast is not automatic...
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA
automatic contrast does lead to more noise on mine (judging from the preview window)
v1rtu4l said:
automatic contrast does lead to more noise on mine (judging from the preview window)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, In the dark the noise Is more high with automatic contrast...
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA
my first gs3 phone's pictures were immaculate in doors and out, but i had overheating issues so i got a replacement...this new phones camera does this...too much noise, didn't have that with the first phone the replacement phones case came damaged so i'm hoping to exchange it once more...hopefully the next phone won't have this camera problem....
I have the same issue, I've been comparing the pics with my S2 and results are really bad indoor, except with flash. much better than S2 with flash! im really puzzled
I had posted here my cam firmware version, I'm wondering if it's the camera app or else
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=27553609&postcount=274
okay....i am not sure whether you guys have knowledge about photography
exposure is measured by 3 component
ISO, shutter speed, and aperture
as long you have sufficient light (outdoor during daylight), lowest ISO will be used by the camera and it results no noise
ISO --- sensitivity to light
you will have noise or sometimes blur in door or low light situation...
that is because aperture of camera has opened wide then it results other two components compensate to maintain proper exposure
that will increase higher ISO (more noise) and shutter speed is slower to get more light ...
hope this explains why
androb0t said:
okay....i am not sure whether you guys have knowledge about photography
exposure is measured by 3 component
ISO, shutter speed, and aperture
as long you have sufficient light (outdoor during daylight), lowest ISO will be used by the camera and it results no noise
ISO --- sensitivity to light
you will have noise or sometimes blur in door or low light situation...
that is because aperture of camera has opened wide then it results other two components compensate to maintain proper exposure
that will increase higher ISO (more noise) and shutter speed is slower to get more light ...
hope this explains why
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont think you understand that I have S3 and S2 with me and test them under the exactly same conditions and results are very different from all the tests of S3 on the web which clearly show that S3 takes better pics.
hm....it's hard to explain...unless you have DSLR and know how to do manual setting...
besides i am referring this to OP thread,NoOneCanHelpMe why there is camera blur and noise
At the club, at the bar, or just in your mom's basement, nighttime is when you come out to play. Rate this thread to express how the Huawei Mate 9's camera performs when no or low light is present. A higher rating indicates that the camera sensor "sees" lots of light in dim conditions, and that the resulting photos have minimal noise. A higher rating also indicates that when the flash fires, the resulting photo is evenly-lit without any bright spots.
Then, drop a comment if you have anything to add!
Black and White Winter shots
Hi, I've been taking some shots with the Monochrome sensor during the white winter in Germany. You can check them out at my blog here:
https://ddienlin.de/en/this and that/Mate-9-Camera.html
So far I'm very happy with the low light performance of the monochrome sensor.
I've also attached a little appetiser
onemandivision said:
Hi, I've been taking some shots with the Monochrome sensor during the white winter in Germany. You can check them out at my blog here:
https://ddienlin.de/en/this and that/Mate-9-Camera.html
So far I'm very happy with the low light performance of the monochrome sensor.
I've also attached a little appetiser
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The low light capability looks quite good. Makes me glad I ordered the Mate 9 although it makes the wait for delivery harder. Please add some more color ones. Is it possible to take both 12 MP and 20 MP colour shots (I guess the 12 MP colour pictures would be post processed using the 20 MP B&W camera to make a 20 MP colour one). Btw, good eye too!
Thanks! Haven't made any good low light shots with colour enabled recently, but there are good ones in this German android forum: http://www.android-hilfe.de/thema/k...-diskussion-frage-huawei-mate-9.802242/page-2
Better than Note5, less noise in the photos
Sent from my MHA-L29 using Tapatalk
onemandivision said:
Hi, I've been taking some shots with the Monochrome sensor during the white winter in Germany. You can check them out at my blog here:
https://ddienlin.de/en/this and that/Mate-9-Camera.html
So far I'm very happy with the low light performance of the monochrome sensor.
I've also attached a little appetiser
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Man, those black and whites look good. Wish the color was as sharp/clear
Was there any significant improvement to the low light capability after the update as reported on some sites?
phynicle said:
Was there any significant improvement to the low light capability after the update as reported on some sites?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah, low light on stationary objects are very good. camera lowers iso and goes to a very slow shutter. Great detail but will blur easily on anything moving
I used manual -2 step exposure for stars shot. There is a bit of sharpening added in second version of each photo. Bit of S7 Edge style, but not so much oversharpened. In parking shot I have used shutter speed 1/4 sec. so you have to have steady hand and there's basically 50% chance that your photo may be blured due to hand shake and fast object moving to side from you will get blured as well. But for static scene Mate 9 does admirable job, if you can keep your hands steady. Both quick shots I've took today were taken handheld. Color reproduction is excellent for both shots, true to life.
taphius said:
yeah, low light on stationary objects are very good. camera lowers iso and goes to a very slow shutter. Great detail but will blur easily on anything moving
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the case for every camera in low light situation. Either the ISO value will be high with lot of noise, or low ISO with slow shutter speed which is not good if anything is moving in scene.
I think Mate 9 has excellent picture quality both in daylight and low light. Especially dynamic range is outstanding and much better than in my other device iP7Plus.
sobelixtus said:
That's the case for every camera in low light situation. Either the ISO value will be high with lot of noise, or low ISO with slow shutter speed which is not good if anything is moving in scene.
I think Mate 9 has excellent picture quality both in daylight and low light. Especially dynamic range is outstanding and much better than in my other device iP7Plus.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I Mostly agree, with little addition. Almost every MOBILE camera, except Google Pixel which uses approx 2x faster shutter speed compared to other mobile cameras because of HDR+ and thanks to this it reduces a lot of high ISO noise, kind of. It have to, because it lacks OIS. But pixel is a lot more expensive than Mate 9, even base 5.2 inch model and for me personally it looks ugly, those thick bezels, display ratio, relatively small battery, for that kind of money. Then, on avarage DSLR camera with APS-C sensor and F/1.8 50mm lens one can use about 4-6 times faster shutter speed than Mate 9. So basically where you're shooting 1/17 with Mate 9 you can shot 1/100 with mirrorless DSLR and still get bit better quality pictures out of it with more details preserved and better dynamic range.
D1G1TE said:
I Mostly agree, with little addition. Almost every MOBILE camera, except Google Pixel which uses approx 2x faster shutter speed compared to other mobile cameras because of HDR+ and thanks to this it reduces a lot of high ISO noise, kind of. It have to, because it lacks OIS. But pixel is a lot more expensive than Mate 9, even base 5.2 inch model and for me personally it looks ugly, those thick bezels, display ratio, relatively small battery, for that kind of money. Then, on avarage DSLR camera with APS-C sensor and F/1.8 50mm lens one can use about 4-6 times faster shutter speed than Mate 9. So basically where you're shooting 1/17 with Mate 9 you can shot 1/100 with mirrorless DSLR and still get bit better quality pictures out of it with more details preserved and better dynamic range.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course. I am only talking about mobile phone cameras and not even thinking about DSLRs in the same sentence
It is obvious that mobile phone cameras with much smaller sensors cannot compete with DSLR in low light scenario. In good day light both can produce well balanced shots with good dynamic range, but still the edge is on DSLR side
This may be obvious, but a tripod makes a massive difference for low light on this phone.
Coolbananas said:
This may be obvious, but a tripod makes a massive difference for low light on this phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes but from real life scenario, how many times one carries tripod in his/her pocket? If you're already carrying tripod there's not big deal to carry mirrorless DSLR, Sony has nice low profile lens for example.
I personally have this tripod from Polaroid https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/789591-REG/Polaroid_PLTRI42_42_TRAVEL_TRIPOD.html which is extremely portable and can fit into jacket inner pocket. But it isn't exactly comfortable to wear it all the time with your phone during night.
Some fireworks, using light graffiti, light painting mode. I've found out to be best for fireworks. Handheld.
Camera Bug
Today I had a very annoying bug. Given that it snowed I wanted to do a series of photographs. I tried several ways: Monochrome Photo HDR and Night Photo. Bug occurred when I tried to take pictures in '' Night Photo '' and manifests this: I press the button for shooting, display show the message "processing '' and stuck so for several dozen seconds after the image made black. I closed camera app, I opened it again black picture still. I had to close camera app, delete from ram, wait few seconds and work again. I repeted 3 times same results. Please try it and tell me if your phone do the same. I have B138. Thanks. Sorry for my english.
Dual cameras as huawei mate 9
smartphone with dual cameras as huawei mate 9,you can choose sumvier.
Night Mode with Tripod, compressed via social network apps.
3200 ISO impressive...
From hand or tripod?
And what tripod do you recommend?
Wysłane z mojego SM-N920C przy użyciu Tapatalka
At the club, at the bar, or just in your mom's basement, nighttime is when you come out to play. Rate this thread to express how the Xiaomi Mi A1's camera performs when no or low light is present. A higher rating indicates that the camera sensor "sees" lots of light in dim conditions, and that the resulting photos have minimal noise. A higher rating also indicates that when the flash fires, the resulting photo is evenly-lit without any bright spots.
Then, drop a comment if you have anything to add!
Low light need Improvement
Low light is pretty week. Camera app is slow to capture and subjects need to be dead still to produce a usable picture
well overall device is great only weak spot is camera in low light outside in daylight camera performs great but in absence of light there is tons of noise it's like a 3 mp camera image don't know whether a software update can fix that and when mi will provide that or just camera sensor is not capable. i think xiaomi should have asked google to modify camera app also
In low light the cam is more or less unusable.
Yeah, we know the problem. It is not camera itself issue, it is camera app.
Low light performance is just Terrible, no escuses for that.
Low light camera performance is nowhere. Not even low light even in indoor location camera sucks.
Low light photography with the inbuilt Mi-ported camera app is terrible. Pictures clicked had a high amount of noise in manual mode and focusing too was bad. In the HDR mode and with flash, pictures had unrealistic tinge and destroyed the quality. The Portrait Mode works comparatively better however the light entering the photo lens somewhat decreased.
Overall, the app itself needs improvements. The hardware is more or lese fine.
Hardware camera is good for its price. I compared side to side with my old Samsung A710 (f/1.9 vs f/2.2), and the stock camera APP beats the samsung hands down. In low light, Xiaomi pics are darker but with more details. Samsung night mode makes brighter images, but more blurry and with more noise.
Then, if you root (systemless with magisk works great) and use the ported Google Camera then it's a completely different world... Pics become even brighter and more detailed. Different versions could give smoother images or more detailed but noisier ones, up to your choice.
We can't compare vs an Iphone or S8 camera ofc... but in its mid-tier range camera is great for everyday usage.
PS. Using Oreo build, never tried Nougat stock cam.
The Mi camera app considered good enough, though I admit the low light photos are terrible. What's more worst is that the HDR image is really bad compared to non-HDR in quality.
sideport with GCam HDR+ whichever version that suit you.. then have fun with it, if you're not satisfied with the result then it is time to use a DSLR with a 50mm 1.4 or the L series 1.2 for those low light moments.. :angel:
For me, the build is just okay, I'm like holding my OnePlus 3T.
kamrul.auntu said:
Low light camera performance is nowhere. Not even low light even in indoor location camera sucks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
to me its not that bad , use google camera , lowlight photo seems better than stock camera
But the front camera is really bad whether it's gcam or stock. Most of the time it produces blurry images.
Rakibboss said:
But the front camera is really bad whether it's gcam or stock. Most of the time it produces blurry images.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
from my perspective and experience, the front camera with only a 5 MP resolution, using the GCam resulted in a much much better sharp and crisp image.. especially the portrait mode.. (compared to the stock camera app)
it goes back to HOW we take our photographs, steady hands and a moment (around 2-3 seconds while it process the picture) and I never took only one shot, I took many shots then pick which is the best, delete others..
wawing_b said:
from my perspective and experience, the front camera with only a 5 MP resolution, using the GCam resulted in a much much better sharp and crisp image.. especially the portrait mode.. (compared to the stock camera app)
it goes back to HOW we take our photographs, steady hands and a moment (around 2-3 seconds while it process the picture) and I never took only one shot, I took many shots then pick which is the best, delete others..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
During low light i can't have a good group selfie neither from stock nor from gcam. Most of the time it's blurry.
Rakibboss said:
During low light i can't have a good group selfie neither from stock nor from gcam. Most of the time it's blurry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
have you tried using the GCam with flash?
if you have, then there's nothing at the moment an option that I could recommend using :angel:
while using the GCam, let the auto focus (the circle thing) do it's work untill it dissapear.. then press the shutter :fingers-crossed:
I really don't understand. The camera module itself is pretty capable, but the software is putting it back. God I hope G Cam supports dual lens.
Is bad, is real bad
Hi guys...
How is everyone?
Kindly see the following two pics.
When the focus is on the tubelight the screen goes all yellow and thus the resulting pic as well.
but when I covered the tube light with my hand IT returns to normal the actual colour that is there.
Do any of you guys have this problem how should I get my unit replaced?
Is this even a problem or normal white balance stuff?
Xebeck said:
Is this even a problem or normal white balance stuff?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's plainly not a problem.
You may find a similarly serious "fault" where your photo comes out black if you cover the lens with your finger while taking the shot
thesoupthief said:
It's plainly not a problem.
You may find a similarly serious "fault" where your photo comes out black if you cover the lens with your finger while taking the shot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
.
.
Bloody Fanboys ftw...
Why comment if you don't have anything to help me with?
Xebeck said:
.
.
Bloody Fanboys ftw...
Why comment if you don't have anything to help me with?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, didn't mean to sound so chippy. The fact of it is though that this is not a problem. The phone's software adjusts depending on lighting conditions so when you change the lighting it's gonna change its behaviour. Go take some pics in daylight and other real world conditions if you want to confirm whether it's operating correctly. You can always find ways to catch these algorithms out with artificial situations
thesoupthief said:
Sorry, didn't mean to sound so chippy. The fact of it is though that this is not a problem. The phone's software adjusts depending on lighting conditions so when you change the lighting it's gonna change its behaviour. Go take some pics in daylight and other real world conditions if you want to confirm whether it's operating correctly. You can always find ways to catch these algorithms out with artificial situations
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
.
.
Thanks...
I didn't wanna run out of my replacement period and then realise that I should have acted
Yes, this is not a problem, a reviewer showed how the camera reacted when photo was taken from two different angles, at one angle green color was dominant while on different angle it was not.
Xebeck said:
Hi guys...
How is everyone?
Kindly see the following two pics.
When the focus is on the tubelight the screen goes all yellow and thus the resulting pic as well.
but when I covered the tube light with my hand IT returns to normal the actual colour that is there.
Do any of you guys have this problem how should I get my unit replaced?
Is this even a problem or normal white balance stuff?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you happen to still have your Poco, this condition is NOT a hardware nor a white balance problem on Poco. This is a normal behaviour of the flourescent lighting especially when the camera is using fast shutter speed. The yellowing is a phenomenon in which the camera captures the lower portion of the flicker curve, in laymans term, when the light has just turned ON and is not on its peak power yet.
But why was it using fast shutter speed? It should use low shutter speed!
You have a camera with a sensor that can capture huge amount of light at a given intensity and has the capability to use fast shutter speed in order to not blind itself (to not overblown the image). If you ever do use a slower shutter speed, there is a huge probability of the image of being overblown or for the moving subjects to have trails. You could still make some few adjustments in manual mode.
But my old smartphone renders the proper white color!
It is true, it renders white colors because it might be having a lower aperture, smaller sensor or even smaller photocells. To put it simply, it is using slower shutter speeds because it is what it can do and it is doing well with flourescent. It is not being blinded by the light because its camera configuration is not advanced enough to capture more light on a given amount of intensity, does slow shutter speed.
Put this into your mind: At a given constant white balance, a magnetic ballast flourescent lamp will still emit yellow tint/cast whenever the camera is using fast shutter speed. This is NOT an issue of the camera itself but a limitation of of the light source itself because advanced camera systems were now fast enough to capture its low power phase/state.
This phenomenon DOES show on full flrame cameras ie Nikon D90 and Canon Rebel XSI 450d, due to them having bigger sensors therefore using even more faster shutter speed. This doesn't mean that they're defective.
This phenomenon DOES NOT show on high frequency lamps such as midrange LEDs and mostly Flourescents with electronic ballast.
If you really are into photography and wanted to do it under a Flourescent lamp, read these links:
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*29830*how-does-aperture-size-or-shutter-speed-affect-color-temperature
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*43026*how-to-correct-yellowish-pictures-under-fluorescent-lighting-on-a-digital-camera#43029
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*4115*do-fluorescent-lighting-and-shutter-speed-create-a-problem-with-color-cast
http:**blog.tommyimages.com*2009*06*photographing-under-fluorescent-lights.html
https:**en.wikipedia.org*wiki*Fluorescent_lamp#Flicker_problems
- change the * to / and remove any spaces to make the link usable. My apologies for the inconvenience with the links.
If you read them properly, you should know that this do happen even on Full frame cameras. The main culprit was the magnetic ballast flourescent.
3DRIAN said:
If you happen to still have your Poco, this condition is NOT a hardware nor a white balance problem on Poco. This is a normal behaviour of the flourescent lighting especially when the camera is using fast shutter speed. The yellowing is a phenomenon in which the camera captures the lower portion of the flicker curve, in laymans term, when the light has just turned ON and is not on its peak power yet.
But why was it using fast shutter speed? It should use low shutter speed!
You have a camera with a sensor that can capture huge amount of light at a given intensity and has the capability to use fast shutter speed in order to not blind itself (to not overblown the image). If you ever do use a slower shutter speed, there is a huge probability of the image of being overblown or for the moving subjects to have trails. You could still make some few adjustments in manual mode.
But my old smartphone renders the proper white color!
It is true, it renders white colors because it might be having a lower aperture, smaller sensor or even smaller photocells. To put it simply, it is using slower shutter speeds because it is what it can do and it is doing well with flourescent. It is not being blinded by the light because its camera configuration is not advanced enough to capture more light on a given amount of intensity, does slow shutter speed.
Put this into your mind: At a given constant white balance, a magnetic ballast flourescent lamp will still emit yellow tint/cast whenever the camera is using fast shutter speed. This is NOT an issue of the camera itself but a limitation of of the light source itself because advanced camera systems were now fast enough to capture its low power phase/state.
This phenomenon DOES show on full flrame cameras ie Nikon D90 and Canon Rebel XSI 450d, due to them having bigger sensors therefore using even more faster shutter speed. This doesn't mean that they're defective.
This phenomenon DOES NOT show on high frequency lamps such as midrange LEDs and mostly Flourescents with electronic ballast.
If you really are into photography and wanted to do it under a Flourescent lamp, read these links:
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*29830*how-does-aperture-size-or-shutter-speed-affect-color-temperature
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*43026*how-to-correct-yellowish-pictures-under-fluorescent-lighting-on-a-digital-camera#43029
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*4115*do-fluorescent-lighting-and-shutter-speed-create-a-problem-with-color-cast
http:**blog.tommyimages.com*2009*06*photographing-under-fluorescent-lights.html
https:**en.wikipedia.org*wiki*Fluorescent_lamp#Flicker_problems
- change the * to / and remove any spaces to make the link usable. My apologies for the inconvenience with the links.
If you read them properly, you should know that this do happen even on Full frame cameras. The main culprit was the magnetic ballast flourescent.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
.
.
Thank you for the explanation and the effort
3DRIAN said:
If you happen to still have your Poco, this condition is NOT a hardware nor a white balance problem on Poco. This is a normal behaviour of the flourescent lighting especially when the camera is using fast shutter speed. The yellowing is a phenomenon in which the camera captures the lower portion of the flicker curve, in laymans term, when the light has just turned ON and is not on its peak power yet.
But why was it using fast shutter speed? It should use low shutter speed!
You have a camera with a sensor that can capture huge amount of light at a given intensity and has the capability to use fast shutter speed in order to not blind itself (to not overblown the image). If you ever do use a slower shutter speed, there is a huge probability of the image of being overblown or for the moving subjects to have trails. You could still make some few adjustments in manual mode.
But my old smartphone renders the proper white color!
It is true, it renders white colors because it might be having a lower aperture, smaller sensor or even smaller photocells. To put it simply, it is using slower shutter speeds because it is what it can do and it is doing well with flourescent. It is not being blinded by the light because its camera configuration is not advanced enough to capture more light on a given amount of intensity, does slow shutter speed.
Put this into your mind: At a given constant white balance, a magnetic ballast flourescent lamp will still emit yellow tint/cast whenever the camera is using fast shutter speed. This is NOT an issue of the camera itself but a limitation of of the light source itself because advanced camera systems were now fast enough to capture its low power phase/state.
This phenomenon DOES show on full flrame cameras ie Nikon D90 and Canon Rebel XSI 450d, due to them having bigger sensors therefore using even more faster shutter speed. This doesn't mean that they're defective.
This phenomenon DOES NOT show on high frequency lamps such as midrange LEDs and mostly Flourescents with electronic ballast.
If you really are into photography and wanted to do it under a Flourescent lamp, read these links:
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*29830*how-does-aperture-size-or-shutter-speed-affect-color-temperature
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*43026*how-to-correct-yellowish-pictures-under-fluorescent-lighting-on-a-digital-camera#43029
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*4115*do-fluorescent-lighting-and-shutter-speed-create-a-problem-with-color-cast
http:**blog.tommyimages.com*2009*06*photographing-under-fluorescent-lights.html
https:**en.wikipedia.org*wiki*Fluorescent_lamp#Flicker_problems
- change the * to / and remove any spaces to make the link usable. My apologies for the inconvenience with the links.
If you read them properly, you should know that this do happen even on Full frame cameras. The main culprit was the magnetic ballast flourescent.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the explanation! I'm having some problems in places with that type of lights but not when pointing to them, just taking a normal picture, same picture can have that yellow tint, or not, just changing from one camera to the other one or moving around the photo a little bit....
Hello,
i take photos from the night sky since serveral years (with smartphones too).
Unfortunately with the Samsung S9plus the stars are not pinpoint like as they are on the Samsung S7. They apear very distorted with a kind of a halo.
Ofcourse the smartphone was not moved during 10 seconds of exposure time.
I did layed it down and used the self timer mode to prevent shaking.
I tried it serveral days in comparison with the Samung S7.
The S7 is always much better and show pinpoint like stars.
The distortion of the stars is visible in the RAW files(DNG) too so no jpeg problem forced by the compression.
Could you reproduce the same problems?
I am not allowed to post links.So how to show you the photo?
Could send you the link of the uploaded photos for comparison.
The dual camera variants of Samsung phones tend to overexpose shots, especially during darker environment.
That's what I noticed, and I'm waiting for the update they sent to Note 9s.
https://www.xda-developers.com/samsung-galaxy-note-9-update-camera-improvements/
Are you using the telephoto camera? It has OIS driven by digital gyroscopes. Those gyroscopes aren't effective at low frequencies so the OIS will slowly drift around a small amount. 1/5 second is usually the limit for sharp photos. Even when the gyroscopes are turned off, OIS lenses are VERY sensitive to motion because of the lens being on a soft suspension. Walking next to the tripod could wobble the lens.
You also can't expect clear images if you use F/1.5.
Try using the wide angle lens.
I would send a photo to someone of you so you can post it here into the Tread.
Who like to do it?
The camera was layed down on the ground so no shaking or vibration ppossible during the exposure time.
I found no setting that the OIS gyroscope is working in photo mode. OIS is probably only working in video modes.
Even if it works in photo mode, the camera was layed down, so no shaking could happen.
Who of you could make a photo from the stars with the following settings?
Pro Mode
Camera mounted or layed on the ground with direction to the night sky.
Self timer to prevent shaking
Iso 800
10sec shutter speed
F 1.4
kevinmcmurtrie said:
Are you using the telephoto camera? It has OIS driven by digital gyroscopes. Those gyroscopes aren't effective at low frequencies so the OIS will slowly drift around a small amount. 1/5 second is usually the limit for sharp photos. Even when the gyroscopes are turned off, OIS lenses are VERY sensitive to motion because of the lens being on a soft suspension. Walking next to the tripod could wobble the lens.
You also can't expect clear images if you use F/1.5.
Try using the wide angle lens.
Click to expand...
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Antwort unfortunately the tele lens only works in very good light conditions.
Even in a bright lighted room there is no way to activate the real Tele lens. The camera automatic switch to digital Zoom.
Also in pro mode its not possible to use the telephoto lens if the light condirions are not perfect.
This is very bad because if the cameras is standing still completely and the object doesn't move why not using the Tele camera lens in pro mode?
Very interesting Thanks for the link
fortesquieu said:
The dual camera variants of Samsung phones tend to overexpose shots, especially during darker environment.
That's what I noticed, and I'm waiting for the update they sent to Note 9s.
https://www.xda-developers.com/samsung-galaxy-note-9-update-camera-improvements/
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S9 plus Someone able to shoot a photo from the stars/nightsky?
Hello,
just like to ask if someone here are able to shoot a photo from the stars with the Samsung S9 plus by using the following settings:
Please post your photo here to compare it with my one.
Pro Mode
Iso 800
Shutter 10seconds
F 1.4
Selftimer to prevent shaking
Camera on a tripod or layed on the ground
Thanks