Video Stabilization off when setting is set to "on" and vice versa. - Galaxy S6 Edge Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

Anyone notice that one the T-Mobile Edge, that when you set "Video Stabilization" to "On" it actually doesnt stabilize the video?
Only when you set it to "off," it'll stabilized the video recording?
It's kind of the opposite, not sure why no one else noticed.

Could be wrong here, but I believe that while recording you not going to notice any stabilization. It's happening but you won't see it until replaying the processed video after the recording is done.

Pure+ said:
Could be wrong here, but I believe that while recording you not going to notice any stabilization. It's happening but you won't see it until replaying the processed video after the recording is done.
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To check video and photo stabilization, try zooming in to 3x, point it at something and try to do a recording with it On and off, the video will do the opposite.
It work none the less, but it's counter intuitive to have it day off when it's actually on.

OP seems to be spot on. Same problem with my regular S6. Video stabilization = off turns stabilization on. With it = on, videos are jittery as hell where even my pulse through my fingertips causes the camera to shake.
So guess there's a bug in the camera app.

I just noticed the same thing with my unbranded regular Galaxy S6. If you have video stabilization turned on in camera app settings it is in fact turned off. I was surprised how poorly it stabilizes the video, so I had to use 'Stabilize' option in YouTube. Then I thought maybe my optical image stabilization component is damaged so I started playing with it and once I turned it off my video stabilization started to work very well. So it seems to be a bug in camera software. Anyway - if you want to have video stabilization you need to have it turned off Samsung logic

The reasoning is because the video stabilization setting in the camera app turns on DIGITAL Image Stabilizing by Samsung via software which is really just counterproductive to the Optical Image Stabilization already built into the camera.
So yeah, trust the OIS hardware because typically hardware > software in this field.

facetubespam said:
The reasoning is because the video stabilization setting in the camera app turns on DIGITAL Image Stabilizing by Samsung via software which is really just counterproductive to the Optical Image Stabilization already built into the camera.
So yeah, trust the OIS hardware because typically hardware > software in this field.
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Just a question so OIS is default by default and always on am I right? Even on UHD recording?

More evidence that the switch in the camera options refers to DIGITAL image stabilization:
Set video resolution to FHD (not the 60fps option). Otherwise, the Video Stabilization setting is not available (grayed out).
Set the Video Stabilization setting to "ON".
Go back to the camera, zoom in fully (8x). While pointing at something easily identifiable, without shooting video, note that the image is stabilized quite well -- you can simulate "shaky hands" and the image is very stable, not jittery. However, you are not shooting video yet, so settings specific to video are not activated. What's happening here is the OIS is working, and doing a very good job.
Now, click the video recording button. You will notice two changes in the image: It will zoom in a little bit more without any zooming input from you, and the image will get rather UNSTABLE.
It turns out, what you had selected in the settings is actually, truly, being invoked. No, this is not a bug. The switch is not acting the opposite of how its labeled, even though the RESULT is exactly that in practice.
Here's what's happening: As someone else noted, that switch controls digital image stabilization. This is a software process, that basically crops off a small margin all the way around the picture and reserves these pixels for calculating a smaller moving "window" in the larger captured image space. The software tries to move this window around so that it follows the random small movements from jiggling, unsteady hands, etc. In this way, the image appears stable rather than moving around in the capture space.
This is why, when DIS is turned on, the displayed image zooms a little bit -- that's the "reserve image edges" being cropped off and the remaining image being expanded into the display area.
So, here's what I think is happening: When you have Video Stabilization on, the phone turns off OIS and enables the DIS algorithm. The OIS camera hardware is something like a Googolplex times better as IS than Samsung's crappy algorithm, so the end result is the appearance of IS being turned OFF and a little loss of resolution of the video image as well.
Once the video is stopped, after a few seconds you'll see the DIS turned off, OIS turned back on, and the image will zoom out a tiny bit and become very stable again.
Bottom line: The Video Stabilization setting in the S6 camera app is worse than useless. It's adverse. It should be left off at all times under all conditions.
How did this happen? My guess is, the engineering team responsible for the hardware was organizationally distant enough from the camera software team (keep in mind the latter are trying to develop an app that can run across many phones). The hardware guys put this incredible camera in the phone with awesome OIS. The software guys, not focused only on the S6, passed through the DIS that's been in the camera app forever, and no one engineer was responsible for integrating all this stuff for the camera feature itself, testing it, making sense of it, blah blah blah.
And here we are.
Bottom line: Because of the OIS in the S6, the DIS feature in the camera app is unnecessary and should be left OFF. In fact, the way it works misleads the user into thinking IS can't be had with the video resolutions higher than non-60fps FHD. In fact, exceptional IS is available at all times in all resolutions for stills and video -- the hardware OIS is always on the job, unless you turn it off by turning on the [digital] Video Stabilization option in the settings.
The only bug here, if any, is that this setting seems to turn off OIS, when it doesn't need to. Perhaps with OIS on, and the DIS processing applied to that stabilized image, we might get something even better than OIS alone. Alas...

Related

X10 Camera questions/problems.

Hi,
I'v noticed some potential problems with my camera, and I have a few other questions too to help make me get the best out of the camera. This is all using 2.1 ROM and SE camera app.
1.When my camera autofocuses, sometimes it emits a light 'clicking' noise from the inside. I'm not sure if this is only me, and I want to make sure it's not an oddity.
And about the autofocus, it's terrible sometimes. The autofocus bracket turns red quite a lot, meaning it's not got a lock on focus and sometimes it shoots with the red bracket meaning it's not focused (this happens on touch to shoot mode). Sometimes, it says its focused on something when it isn't. This usually happens when close up, like 15-20 cm away from the object.
2.Image stabilization- is it good or bad? I've noticed camera shots are a bit more grainy with image stabilization on and it takes a bit of time to process the shots too. Does image stabilization make any noticable impact on quality of photos?
3. Metering:Center, spot vs average. Which is the best?
4.How exactly does Macro mode work? I've not seen any noticable difference of pictures using it and normal mode.
5.Is there a way to remove the jpeg compression, or at least reduce it? I think photos could be MUCH better if sony hadn't implemented that.
So those are my questions. Thanks for any help on shedding light to the issue(s)
1. I noticed that click on K750 also, and I think that autofocusing mechanism. And yeah x10 has terrible autofocus, especcialy on macros
2. Image stabilisation is used mostly in night/low light images and it compesates hands shaking when holding camera. It does not do wonders, but it is much easier to take night photo with stabilisation on. Also when its on, pictures are not sharp as they are without stabiliastion.
3. generaly:
average - for landscapes and well lit shots
centre - portaits
spot - macros
4. you cannont autofocus on macro distance(10cm or so) if macro or auto mode isnt turned on
5. only way to reduce JPEG compression is to use vignette aplication with super fine quality (check Camera 360 app also)
one major tip, play with EV always and youll get much better results
cheers mate
hibiskus said:
1. I noticed that click on K750 also, and I think that autofocusing mechanism. And yeah x10 has terrible autofocus, especcialy on macros
2. Image stabilisation is used mostly in night/low light images and it compesates hands shaking when holding camera. It does not do wonders, but it is much easier to take night photo with stabilisation on. Also when its on, pictures are not sharp as they are without stabiliastion.
3. generaly:
average - for landscapes and well lit shots
centre - portaits
spot - macros
4. you cannont autofocus on macro distance(10cm or so) if macro or auto mode isnt turned on
5. only way to reduce JPEG compression is to use vignette aplication with super fine quality (check Camera 360 app also)
one major tip, play with EV always and youll get much better results
cheers mate
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Thanks a lot, your post was informative . Cheers
5.Is there a way to remove the jpeg compression, or at least reduce it? I think photos could be MUCH better if sony hadn't implemented that.
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Click to collapse
5. only way to reduce JPEG compression is to use vignette aplication with super fine quality (check Camera 360 app also)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
28spawn's modded stock camera for 2.1 has somewhat less compressed jpegs and some other improvements. It's in the Themes & Apps section.
I have had a couple of autofocus camera phones now and they have all done the clicking noise during the focusing, so I am guessing that is completely normal. Image stabilization does make the pictures turn out a lot worse, try to avoid using that. And as hibiskus said, the EV controls make a world of difference! Check out this link http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com...xposure-value/ It has some useful information on the EV controls.

Questions about OIS and EIS [solved]

Hello Everyone
How do you enable and or tell of OIS and EIS are enabled?
When I go into the settings for the stock camera app there is a toggle switch labeld "video stabilization" in the "common" section but it is set to off and grayed out. Note this is when using the rear camera. If I switch to the front camera this toggle switch is now no longer grayed out and is set to on.
Thank You
I think it depends on the resolution, try lowering resolution and see. The way EIS works, it needs extra pixels around visible frame, to shift whole recorded frame, so object stays in the same spot on frame even if the lens points differently due to shake. Either there is not enough extra pixels to compensate, or not enough CPU power to calculate the frame shift, not sure which, so not available in certain modes.
Solution
It would seem that one cannot have both video stabilization and tracking AF enabled. Once I turned off tracking AF the video stabilization toggle was no longer grayed out.

What is best video options for different recording types

I want to ask something about some different video recording situations
What is best video recording options for wide angle video output (quality, stabilisation fps etc...)
What is best video recording options for normal angle video output (quality, stabilisation fps etc...)
What is best video recording options for X3 zoom video output (quality, stabilisation fps etc...)
I see not so many video options but you know what I mean, it's resolution.
Resolution changes the field of view output of video.
What are your settings and why are you using that for different situations.
Shine my dark road with your light of wisdom
I use :
- 1080p 30fps : when I film in a regular way such as filming landscapes, or filming things I don't intend to put an emphasis on
- 1080 60fps : I use this more when I have "living" subject on my frame, such as filming my friends laughing or doing whatever they are up to. The idea is to be able to apply a little slow motion in post to emphasize some moments.
- 120fps : that option is on the slo-mo options. I only use that feature in great lighting and if I intend to create a more dramatic look to the moving subject I wish to apply a slow mo on. But I rarely use that feature since I don't have much opportunity to capture fast moving subject.
I recommend using the Pro mode for video since you can control the focus. (Manual focus, autofocus, focus lock)
Your camera settings depends on what you want to shoot. You will have to play around with all of them and well switch from a mode to another depending on the situation.
30fps provide better image quality
60fps is smoother but somehow less sharp in some situation
120fps don't use it if you don't have enough light otherwise you'll end up with a blurry not sharp not good looking slo-mo.
There are 3rd app such as FilmicPro that gives you more freedom with the camera settings. But I don't use them since I haven't found one that take advantage of the 3 lenses that comes with the Mate 20 Pro. So now I deal with the stock camera in Pro mode.
Hope it helps
This helps a lot. Thanks for posting details.
Mini Jay said:
I use :
- 1080p 30fps : when I film in a regular way such as filming landscapes, or filming things I don't intend to put an emphasis on
- 1080 60fps : I use this more when I have "living" subject on my frame, such as filming my friends laughing or doing whatever they are up to. The idea is to be able to apply a little slow motion in post to emphasize some moments.
- 120fps : that option is on the slo-mo options. I only use that feature in great lighting and if I intend to create a more dramatic look to the moving subject I wish to apply a slow mo on. But I rarely use that feature since I don't have much opportunity to capture fast moving subject.
I recommend using the Pro mode for video since you can control the focus. (Manual focus, autofocus, focus lock)
Your camera settings depends on what you want to shoot. You will have to play around with all of them and well switch from a mode to another depending on the situation.
30fps provide better image quality
60fps is smoother but somehow less sharp in some situation
120fps don't use it if you don't have enough light otherwise you'll end up with a blurry not sharp not good looking slo-mo.
There are 3rd app such as FilmicPro that gives you more freedom with the camera settings. But I don't use them since I haven't found one that take advantage of the 3 lenses that comes with the Mate 20 Pro. So now I deal with the stock camera in Pro mode.
Hope it helps
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Sure it helps. Thanks for your effort :good:

Camera App Fixes?

I've watched a couple of reviews and read others regarding the camera apps and performance, such as the erratic HDR performance and slow switching between cameras, RAW support not available in all cameras, frame rates in video, and so on.
Notably this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjSX1j4WBRo and this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TrZAb4dUfHQ
Has Sony since then launched updates to fix these issues?
Avoid this phone if you;re planning using camera. None of it has been fixed...
Fujimens said:
I've watched a couple of reviews and read others regarding the camera apps and performance, such as the erratic HDR performance and slow switching between cameras, RAW support not available in all cameras, frame rates in video, and so on.
Notably this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjSX1j4WBRo and this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TrZAb4dUfHQ
Has Sony since then launched updates to fix these issues?
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Click to collapse
the launch speed of the camera is normal like the other high-end, there is just the ultra-wide angle or there is a delay but on most other smartphones this delay also exists. For the range I did not notice anything strange, it is normal and not exaggerated (the dynamic range is different from the HDR which is purely software to access it must pass a manual mode), for the rest it acts as their camera (for example in landscape there will be the backlight settings but if there is a human in front of the forces will highlight the face ...). For example, there will be a photo in auto on the stock camera and Google cam HDR +, I much prefer the rendering, the details, the noise of the camera stock.
Camera works fine, dont believe everything you see on the internet. I have this phone since september and camera app has not crashed once since then. So, yeah..
I hope they will finally fix lack of 21:9 mode in main camera, lack of 4k 60fps and 4k video stabilisation crap that actually is disaster...
None of those were fixed :/
decomposed said:
I hope they will finally fix lack of 21:9 mode in main camera, lack of 4k 60fps and 4k video stabilisation crap that actually is disaster...
None of those were fixed :/
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Click to collapse
21:9 photo mode is pointless when you can take a 4:3 photo and zoom in to 21:9.
That's all the 21:9 mode would do so not much point investing it in

Camera settings

I would like you to check something that drives me mad with my new Oppo Reno 2. In camera settings, I always set video settings in 1080p and 60 fps. Whenever I change to bokeh effect or wide angle for example, when I untick one of them, values for camera reset to 1080p 30 fps. It´s annoying changing this every time I want to make a video. Even if I do not change anything and shoot a video in 60 fps non ultra stabilization mode, and get out of the camera app, a time later when I enter again, values for camera are changed to 1080 30 fps again. I do not know the reason why or because it is something about performance or battery saving or not.
I just would like you to check if this happens. Change settings to 60 fps and change to wide angle or do not change anything and do whatever you want with your smartphone and after a while, don´t know how much, enter again and see if it changes. Much appeciate it.
EDIT. I must add that it seems that setting main camera to 48 mg also resets to default after a while. What´s this?
Haha. Happens to me either.
I was like "what the hell, didn't I switched to 60fps the other day?"
Let's just hope that Color OS 7 will fix this little issue.
Thanks a lot mate. Thanks a lot for answering. It's a really great great beautiful stylish smartphone and I'm glad I'm not the only one facing that bug. Anyway, I will always stick on 1080p 60 fps through ultra stabilization button every time I use the video because I think it's incredible the result, too much to miss it. That's the trick I use.
I'm new with this Oppo, only two days and I'm getting used to it. And one thing around my mind is the aspect ratio of photos. The gorgeous screen invites me to take photos in full screen mode as the difference in quality seems not to be enormous and this full screen makes people astonish when they see a photo just taken at the moment in all its splendor without any black bars at both sides.
But I know the quality is 4000x1800 in full screen mode and 4000x3000 in 4:3 aspect. Do you prefer taking photos in one or other aspect ratio? The screen is so good that I don't want to miss anything at all. And as we can't yet use our personal preferences in settings such as 48 megapixels mode, which I'll stick if its solved by an update, which are your preferences when taking photos according to these two aspect ratios? And thanks again. Writing from Spain here.
Well, i'm no expert at all, but i'd say that 48mpx mode is the only mod i would not advise, as there's always some loss in terms of color.
Using full-screen mode or default 4:3 is probably based on personal taste. You're losing much information (as the photo is much narrower) and it can be harder to put everything you want in the frame.
Though, it looks very good in the phone's gallery indeed.
I'd probably go for using full screen if you watch your photos only on your phone, but 4:3 for a more versatile use.
Mates, absolutely solved everything with new update to Color 7. Camera settings will remain as our personal preferences. More intuitive camera options. Now it's perfect.
About using one or other aspect ratio in photos, I mean in terms of quiality, I don´t know what to do. I do not want to loose quality using full screenmode if that means that using 4.3 aspect ratio implies a better quality. But what I can tell is that versatility is also present in full screen mode because if we see photos on tv, it aproaches to that aspect ratio and there´s more space taken by the picture on screen. Making a photo report or video report also takes advantage of this ratio because when we use the programs to edit photos and make a photo compilation, it adapts to that kind of format. So the only dude here is quality. Perhaps is the same in both modes.

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