[Q&A] Teclast x98 air The still ongoing problems (and an ongoing hardware investiga - Android Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

[Q&A] Teclast x98 air The still ongoing problems (and an ongoing hardware investiga
Q&A for Teclast x98 air The still ongoing problems (and an ongoing hardware investigation)
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thanks, can't belive there is no solution
Sorry to bother you, but after a week looking for a solution to the battery drain in windows I've just found +-10 people like me. It's a nice tablet but useless with this issue.
Please ¿Have you find a solution, how?
Thanks in advance!
motoi_bogdan said:
So... like most of you, i have at least one problem with my teclast x98 air tablet, version C9J8, running only windows (8.1 pro/10 preview).
At this time i've constantly encountered the following problems:
- not turning on after being shut down. Pressing the power button doesn't do nothing. Sometimes it does this while charging, at the end of the charge, othertimes it... simply won't power on.
- huge battery drain in stand by. I've flashed ALL (yes... all) dual boot/single boot air/air 2 BIOS files i could get, in all versions. If it's got a .bin extension... yes, i've flashed that too. No change AT ALL!
- huge batterty drain... when powered off !?!?! Yes, that's the next level of awsomeness. You know your tablet is special when it sometimes discharges faster when turned off compared with it turned on. (@XDA, guys .. can you please add some facepalm smiley/emoji.. i wanted to use it about 30 times since i got this tablet)
- sudden shutdowns. Like when you use your tablet it simply dies in your hands with no apparent reason.
- battery meter stuck at 7% and only 1 cell reported. NOT fixed by the methods already known (flashing BIOS and letting it discharge then recharge with tablet turned off).
So.. i'm pissed off. I've disassembled the damn thing in search for some answers. I'll by posting some photos with the guts of this thing (c9j8 version).
First of all, I wanted to check the power draw directly from the battery, so i've desoldered the positive wire from the battery and inserted an amps meter to check the current flow.
For example, the stock charger will supply around 1.5-1.9 amps to the battery when charging (tablet off). For comparison a small 5V 1A, samsung charger supplied 1.1 amps in the same setup. Some other interesting facts, when on and booted to windows - the tablet draws about 1.1-2.2 amps (mostly depending on screen brigtness and cpu load). That's a total of 4-11 watts. If you lower the brigtness from full to low (bottom third of the slider) you effectively half the power consumption. As usual the display consumes more then 50% of the total power being drawn. Those who complain about huge power drain on standby will be surprised to know that the tablet draws 0.3-0.8 amps (it fluctuates) in standby. That’s HUGE. It should be 0.03-0.05 amps at MAXIMUM. 0.3 amps multiplied to a 3.8volts cell is 1.14Watts draw per hour at minimum in my case.
Leaving that aside, let's return to the above problems. The battery is connected to the motherboard by using a 3 wire connection (positive, ground and data bus/i2c or similar). The motherboard itself doesn't feature ANY protection/power management chip aside from a single ROHM controller located under a metal shield. Even if some data is passed between the battery and motherboard, you can simply decouple the battery and power the tablet with regular 18650 lithium cells or 3 AA alkaline batteries in series. The tablet is stupid enough not to notice any difference.
Let's go more deep in the start-up sequence.
When you press the power button, a half a second 500mA ramping to 800mA load is registered. The power management chip measures the voltage drop under that load and if it deems it to be "acceptable" it passes power to the rest of the motherboard. BIOS/firmware takes over from there but does a measurement of its own. If it results in an "ok" the boot sequence can the follow. If not, the BIOS would then power off the tablet. Here lies the first problem. The power management chip and BIOS thresholds for a "low voltage" battery are different. Very different. The chip itself considers the battery voltage to be ok if it's above about 3.45-3.5 volts and not dropping lower then 3.3v under a 500-800mA load. The BIOS/firmware (or whatever software part does this) won't accept a measurement below 3.65v. volts. So, when you pass the BIOS stage and boot to windows, the data you get when checking your battery comes from the power management chip. If you fully discharge the battery in windows (down to 2-3% or similar) and you are able to shutdown the tablet by yourself (it doesn’t cut power by itself) you could find that it cannot power back again because even if the power management ic gives the go ahead, the bios/firmware side refuses to go any further. The battery must be charged for some time before the bios will allow for booting.
The problem is that both power management IC and BIOS readings should be taken in same way and be of similar value. They are not. It’s not that Teclast couldn’t do this, but for whatever reason they decided to write the BIOS in that way. The 7% problem could originate in the fact that a what the BIOS considers a dead battery (0%) is actually charged to a degree and is different from 0% measured at the power management chip level. Overall the power readings are inconsistent in both measurement and reporting. It doesn’t seem to be a hardware problem.
Another problem is how „dumb” is the battery management hardware. In any modern portable computer (laptops, tablets, even phones – excluding some chinese products) you cannot simply disconect the data bus from the battery and simply feed some random 3-4 volts to power the thing. It’s like you would remove the battery from your laptop, check the label on it for the voltage rating and stick a bunch of wires on the contacts (2 of them) and expect the thing to boot. It won’t. Firstly because IT’S NOT SAFE. The battery or motherboard can’t report one to another if a fault is occuring and can’t accurately measure voltage/current consumption.
Yet another problem is that the same power circuitry does not compensate for large voltage/current swings. A simple experiment for you folks to try. Get a aa battery (a battery in general) measure it’s voltage as it’s sitting still then connect a small lightbulb/motor/led/whatever load runs on that battery and measure the voltage WHILE the battery suplies current to the load. You will find a voltage drop at the battery level. It’s normal, is how these things run. A complex electronic device must take that into account in it’s design. At idle/browsing web/viewing picture, the tablet draws about 1.1 amps from a battery that’s registering 3.87volts (at that test’s time in my case). Running a benchmark/video game produced a series of spikes to 2 – 2.1 amps and an aditional voltage drop to around 3.61 volts. Remember that some power rails require exact voltages (cpu core, main bus, 5volt usb bus etc). The power circuitry must provide those exact voltages regarding the input voltage swing. Noup... and that’s the main problem untill now. THEY DONT! I was shocked to see how the chinese engineers are pushing it right on the edge. If you desolder one battery pin and insert an ampere meter in series, that’s enough to induce the little voltage drop needed for the tablet to freeze under load or shut down alltogether. The ampere meter leads were rated to withstand 10 amps under load – and they do, yet the simple fact you inserted a piece of wire along the track is enough to disturb an already delicate balance. The thing is only barely capable of whitstanding it’s own battery voltage swing. In my opinion you can try to reduce the load by disabling turbo modes on cpu/gpu or whatever (and teclast tried with some bios/models of the x98 air) but you cannot fix this by firmware. It’s just bad hardware design. They cut costs on the power management side.
Those are my finds untill now. I’m thinking of adding some capacitance over the power rails to take the load over from the batteries when a large amount of current is drawn (spikes that occur under load). Other then that, there is not much to do about this.
Even so, i don’t know why the tablet still draws power while turned off. I wasn’t able to make it do that while measuring. Aditionally i don’t know why only one cell is reported in windows. More tests are required.
This is still an ongoing "project". Some of my conclusion could be wrong at this stage. Like i've said it's still a work in progress. It would be quite a thing if anyone with some knoledge about the BIOS code (or how it runs on this tablet) could step in and direct me to the right hardware to examine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Anom7832 said:
Sorry to bother you, but after a week looking for a solution to the battery drain in windows I've just found +-10 people like me. It's a nice tablet but useless with this issue.
Please ¿Have you find a solution, how?
Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i don't think a simple bios flash will fix that in our cases. Could be that some tablets have defective power management ic's. in fact all bios versions tried by me lead to a similar voltage drop across the battery in stand by. I'm now tracking where is all this power going to since something has to use it. At this time i can rule out the camera and the touchscreen controller since i've disconnected them from the mainboard with no noticeable effect. Since the power drop seem related to the cpu area i suspect the cpu itself not being able to go to a lower power state but i must access the core voltage pins to check this. Yet normally this should be corectable by a bios update but for whatever reason teclast isn't providing any.
Still...more testing is needed

Related

[Q] Battery charging quite slow

I got an replacement due to my phone beyond repair.
I'm running original stock firmware, of-course rooted. Since the replacement I'm trying to get my phone to full charge but it doesn't and also I notice that the charging is quite slow.
I installed "Battery Monitor Widget" to see how much power it is drawing and found that AC power draws only about 350+mA and sometimes it is as low as 8mA. (Some times it draws about 750+mA). I notice that the temperature also reaches somewhere about 45 to 48 degree.
Once it reaches about 90% or so, it starts to drain battery instead of charing it.
I find it quite abnormal. Anyone with this kind of problem and found an solution?
Thanks in advance for the replies and suggestions.
What I'd sudjest is updating your phone through seus or PC companion or if your an American at & t user update to a newer firmware through the flash tool (you can find I link to it through my signiture) or if you can't update try and use the repair option through seus or PC compainion.
Sent from my X10 using XDA Premium App
The Gingerbread Man said:
What I'd sudjest is updating your phone through seus or PC companion or if your an American at & t user update to a newer firmware through the flash tool (you can find I link to it through my signiture) or if you can't update try and use the repair option through seus or PC compainion.
Sent from my X10 using XDA Premium App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply.
I did that yesterday. I repaired the firmware and reloaded all the application one by one from scratch. The only thing I restored is contacts so that I could eliminate all the other factors which can cause this issue.
My other suggestion would be to install xrecovery and wipe your battery stats I guess. You can find a link to xrecovery through the link in my sig
Sent from my X10 using XDA Premium App
The Gingerbread Man said:
My other suggestion would be to install xrecovery and wipe your battery stats I guess. You can find a link to xrecovery through the link in my sig
Sent from my X10 using XDA Premium App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks once again for the reply.
I tired that too every time I try to charge the phone. Still it refuses to complete the charging.
Any other suggestions are welcome.
What about off line charging ie; turning the phone off and doing that way?
Sent from my X10 using XDA Premium App
The Gingerbread Man said:
My other suggestion would be to install xrecovery and wipe your battery stats I guess. You can find a link to xrecovery through the link in my sig
Sent from my X10 using XDA Premium App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1 it helped me off this problem
Sent from my X10i using XDA App
The Gingerbread Man said:
What about off line charging ie; turning the phone off and doing that way?
Sent from my X10 using XDA Premium App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good idea. I will try that as well as try to do a clean wipe and just try to charge with nothing loaded in. That will give a better idea where the problem is.
Thanks for the great tip, I will update you tomorrow.
Had that happen before, I had to remove sim card and let it drain out slowly for a week, then charge. Problem solved
I think I had similar problem, except that my processor went on full load when its almost fully charged causing it to drain the battery instead. Still lookin for answer to that, will wiping battery stats help?
I reset my phone to factory and did a re-flashing again using SEUS and I tried it charging immediately without loading any application (only loaded Battery Monitor Widget from Market to see the battery temperature and mA units drawn) and wow, it charged like a normal X10. So I guess it has something to do with whatever I loaded or modded it with.
I'm trying to find it out. Later tonight I will try to load all the application one-by-one and try again to charge to see whether I can isolate it.
During this process, I did takeout my SIM card for a period of 1 hour or so, so not sure whether that did the trick (If that's the case, thanks to gogogu)
In the meantime, I have a strong feeling it would be due to the flashtool and new recovery, but again there isn't any proof. I suspect this because this is the new thing I did compared to my old phone.
Any thoughts are welcome.
Monitor the CPU usage as well
zymphonyx said:
Monitor the CPU usage as well
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have issues with processor. It works at full throttle when it supposed to work and then goes back to normal.
Hrmmm alright, but if you ever had the draining issue while charging and the battery temp rises up again. Check the CPU usage just incase
After yesterday's event, seems like stable (I did face the same issue once). Not sure which cured it and currently monitoring...
EDIT: Back to square one. The issue started again and the battery refues to fully charge! I'm going mad
Finally given up, sent for service and came back after 5 days of repair.
Repair Notes: No problem found !!!
But today morning I tried to charge and it's the same issue . Makes me go mad. Really, I don't know what to do!
Please help me friends .......
I too have exactly the same problem with my x10i.....
tried everything like rooting, using stock & custom ROMs, etc... still problem persist ...
while charging , power goes from 900mA to 200mA or lower, & doesn't reach 100% full...
i use current widget from market to read the power values ....
please help me friends .... to resolve my problem ...
Thanks a lot...
Makzer.
nobody replying
hello mates...
please reply to my problem dear friends ..
looking forward ...
LiveSquare said:
I got an replacement due to my phone beyond repair.
I'm running original stock firmware, of-course rooted. Since the replacement I'm trying to get my phone to full charge but it doesn't and also I notice that the charging is quite slow.
I installed "Battery Monitor Widget" to see how much power it is drawing and found that AC power draws only about 350+mA and sometimes it is as low as 8mA. (Some times it draws about 750+mA). I notice that the temperature also reaches somewhere about 45 to 48 degree.
Once it reaches about 90% or so, it starts to drain battery instead of charing it.
I find it quite abnormal. Anyone with this kind of problem and found an solution?
Thanks in advance for the replies and suggestions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What program do you use to check your battery temperature. I rememeber there was one that wass bettery draining. The same is also possible with battery level monitor
Sent from X10
Use this tool forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1415600
Please read this. There is a lot of batt info on xda just search
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=871051
I realize that much of this is common knowledge on XDA. Still, every day I see people post about how their phone "loses" 10% as soon as it comes off the charger. I also have friends who can't understand why their battery drains so quickly. Trying to explain this to people without hard numbers is often met with doubt, so I figured that I'd actually plot it out with real data.
So it's not a piece that is optimized for this audience, but I hope that you find it interesting.
--------------------------------------------------
Your Smartphone is Lying to You
(and it's not such a bad thing)
Climbing out of bed, about to start your day, you unplug your new smartphone from its wall charger and quickly check your email. You've left it plugged in overnight, and the battery gauge shows 100%. After a quick shower, you remember that you forgot to send your client a file last night. You pick up your phone again, but the battery gauge now reads 90%. A 10% drop in 10 minutes? The phone must be defective, right?
A common complaint about today's smartphones is their short battery life compared to older cell phones. Years ago, if you accidentally left your charger at home, your phone could still make it through a weeklong vacation with life to spare (I did it more than once). With the newest phones on the market, you might be lucky enough to make it through a weekend.
And why should we expect anything else? Phones used to have a very short list of features: make and receive phone calls. Today we use them for email, web surfing, GPS navigation, photos, video, games, and a host of other tasks. They used to sport tiny displays, while we now have giant touch screens with bright and vibrant colors. All of these features come at a cost: large energy requirements.
Interestingly enough, improvements in battery management technology have compounded the average user's perception of this problem. Older phones were rather inelegant in their charging behavior; usually filling the battery to capacity and then switching to a trickle current to maintain the highest charge possible. This offered the highest usage time in the short-term, but was damaging the battery over the course of ownership. As explained at Battery University, "The time at which the battery stays at [maximum charge] should be as short as possible. Prolonged high voltage promotes corrosion, especially at elevated temperatures."[1]
This is why many new phones will "lose" up to 10% within a few minutes of coming off the charger. The reality is that the battery was only at 100% capacity for a brief moment, after which the battery management system allowed it to slowly dip down to around 90%. Leaving the phone plugged in overnight does not make a difference: the phone only uses the wall current to maintain a partial charge state.
To monitor this, I installed CurrentWidget on my HTC ADR6300 (Droid Incredible), an app that can log how much electric current is being drawn from the battery or received from the charger. Setting it to record log entries every 10 seconds, I have collected a few days worth of data. While many variables are involved (phone hardware, ROM, kernel, etc) and no two devices will perform exactly the same, the trends that I will describe are becoming more common in new phones. This is not just isolated to a single platform or a single manufacturer.
Chart 1 shows system reported battery levels over the course of one night, with the phone plugged in to a charger. Notice that as the battery level approaches 100%, the charging current gradually decreases. After a full charge is reached, wall current is cut completely, with the phone switching back to the battery for all of its power. It isn't until about two hours later that you can see the phone starts receiving wall current again, and even then it is only in brief bursts.
The steep drop in reported battery seen past the 6.5 hour mark shows the phone being unplugged. While the current draw does increase at this point (since the phone is being used), it still cannot account for the reported 6% depletion in 3 minutes. It should also be obvious that maintaining a 100% charge state is impossible given the long spans in which the phone is only operating on battery power.
Using the data from CurrentWidget, however, it is quite easy to project the actual battery state. Starting with the assumption that the first battery percentage reading is accurate, each subsequent point is calculated based on mA draw and time. Chart 2 includes this projection.
Now we can see that the 6% drop after unplugging is simply the battery gauge catching up with reality.
The phone manufacturers essentially have three choices:
1. Use older charging styles which actually maintain a full battery, thereby decreasing its eventual life
2. Use new charging methods and have an accurate battery gauge
3. Use new charging methods and have the inaccurate battery gauge
Option one has clearly fallen out of favor as it prematurely wears devices. Option two, while being honest, would most likely be met with many complaints. After all, how many people want to see their phone draining down to 90% while it is still plugged in? Option three therefore offers an odd compromise. Maybe phone companies think that users will be less likely to worry about a quick drop off the charger than they will worry about a "defective" charger that doesn't keep their phone at 100% while plugged in.
Bump It. Or Should You?
One technique that has gained popularity in the user community is "bump charging." To bump charge a device, turn it off completely, and plug it into a charger. Wait until the indicator light shows a full charge (on the ADR6300, for example, the charging LED changes from amber to green) but do not yet turn the device back on. Instead, disconnect and immediately reconnect the power cord. The device will now accept more charge before saying it is full. This disconnect/reconnect process can be repeated multiple times, each time squeezing just a little bit more into the battery. Does it work?
The following chart plots battery depletion after the device has received a hefty bump charge (6 cycles) and then turned on to use battery power. Note that the system does not show the battery dropping from 100% until well over an hour of unplugged use, at which point it starts to steadily decline. Again, however, it should be obvious that the battery gauge is not syncing up with reality. How could the rate of depletion be increasing over the first 5 hours while the rate of current draw is relatively steady? And why does the projected battery line separate from the reported levels, but then exactly mirror the later rises and falls?
The answer, of course, is that bump charging definitely works. Rather than anchoring our projected values to the first data point of 100%, what happens if we anchor against a later point in the plot?
Aligning the data suggests that a heavy bump charge increases initial capacity by approximately 15%. Note that the only other time that the lines separate in this graph was once again when the phone was put on the charger and topped up to 100%. Just as with the first set of graphs, the phone kept reporting 100% until it was unplugged, dropped rapidly, and again caught up with our projections.
So what does it all mean?
If you absolutely need the highest capacity on a device like this, you will need to bump charge. There are currently people experimenting with "fixes" for this, but I have yet to see one that works. Be warned, however, that repeated bump charging will wear your battery faster and begin to reduce its capacity. If you are a "power user" who will buy a new battery a few months from now anyway, this presumably isn't a concern. If you are an average consumer who uses a device for a few years, I would recommend that you stay away from bump charging. The bottom line is that you don't really "need" to do it unless you are actually depleting your battery to 0% on a regular basis.
If you are someone who can top off your phone on a regular basis, do it. Plug it in when you're at home. Plug it in when you're at your desk. As explained by Battery University, "Several partial discharges with frequent recharges are better for lithium-ion than one deep one. Recharging a partially charged lithium-ion does not cause harm because there is no memory."[2]
Beyond that, the best advice I can offer is to stop paying such close attention to your battery gauge and to just use your phone. Charge it whenever you can, and then stop obsessing over the exact numbers. If you really need more usage time, buy an extended-capacity battery and use it normally.
From my XPERIA X10S v8.2 on JaBKerneL @ 1.15ghz

Minimum voltage cutoff?

I was wondering if there is a way to set the minimum voltage cutoff (when the device forcefully shuts off), if it's device specific then we are working with the HTC Aria. The reason why I ask this, is that I have a device with a 12 Ah (that's 12,000 mAh) battery. Now I'll be straight, I'm an EE so software is not my forte, I work with analogue circuits, not software. So my knowledge of programming is nil. I was going to go the extra mile and make a flyback regulator to keep the voltage at 4 volts all the time (I can get it to work down to .5 volt if I wanted), but did not want the extra mass. (Already have 3 long C cell size sized batteries, don't need a PWM board on top of that). If this is the wrong thread, call me a noob and kick me in the nuts a few times, will ya? BTW the minimum voltage we are working with is 3 volts.
I was wondering the same thing.
*up*
Is there an option/methode to set the minimum voltage of the battery to a specific level? A shutdown at 3.5V is too high. An Lipo can be discharged to 3.1 or 3.0V without hamring it...
I was just wondering the same for the ultimate battery saving app !!!
Have you find out something? I have tested my old battery and found out, that after my phone shuts down, there is almost 800mAh in battery left. Battery capacity 2400mAh. My phone uses only aboout 1000mAh of 2400mAh capacity :/
For the whole Android history (9 years) this has never been investigated. That's silly!! No one even knows whether it's hardcoded in the kernel or in the ROM itself. This is astounding! The battery is the second important thing after the CPU in mobile devices. It should be examined far and wide.
aaaaaaaaaah..... nothing about this yet? my phone is dying at 30%... with a lot of charge, since I changed the ROM............

OEM charger doesn't keep up? Requiring assistance, please!

Hello, guys. I know this post is awfully long, but please, bear with me
I am fairly new to Sammy, as I just got the S2 (I9100, not some other variant... it's the very original) three days ago. I rooted it, flashed CWM, and already tried a few ROMs. I'm sticking to MIUIv4 (WIUI, actually) for the moment, as I loved having MIUI on my previous devices.
There's just one thing that makes me wanna throw rocks at this phone... and that's not the Super AMOLED+ screen that has stains / ghosting effect... it's the CHARGER.
I believe the charger I'm using is original - it was in the package, so... it can't be a copy, lol. It says it can output 700mA at 5V, which is pretty standard... but it seems like it just doesn't do its job!!!
I've had three HTC devices before, and the HTC charger is just a brick that you plug into the socket, and then plug a USB cable in it (just like Motorola's and Apple's recently). It outputs 1A at 5V.
The Motorola ATRIX I previously owned had a charger that was outputting 850mA at 5.1V. Charging that 1900 mAh beast battery would take just a little over 3 hours!
I no longer own the ATRIX (sold it to get the S2, actually), but I did borrow a HTC charger (with a HTC USB cable) to see if I could charge my S2 faster. Nopes. The charger barely gave the S2 0.5 amps... which is normal, since I hear two pins must be connected in order for the Samsung phone to draw maximum power.
My Galaxy S2 is charging painfully slow with this original charger. I installed Battery Monitor Widget and let it log the battery charging overnight - the log file is attached below this post.
At the very first line of that text file, you can see the charging began. I let the phone turned on, with the screen off, to charge overnight. Wi-Fi, Mobile Data, BT, GPS, Auto-sync was off. It was just in auto 2G/3G mode. That hardly matters!
It looks like the phone is drawing 641mA constantly. It doesn't top 700mA, but that's okay - neither did the HTC phones reach more than 900mA, when the charger was able of 1A output.
It took the SGS2 exactly two hours and 50 minutes to fully charge. Given the fact that the charger outputs 700mA, and the battery is 1650mA, I'd say that's right. A 1900mAh battery was completely charged in 3 hours and something, with a 850mA output charger.
Still, that's painfully slow. I had the HTC EVO 3D, which has a 1730mAh battery. Charging that (@1A) would take little over two and a half hours. I could even browse the web via Wi-Fi or do something else on the phone and the battery would still be completely charged in less than three hours (unless I play a game on 3G with max brightness on, of course).
Also, when the battery was at 1% at lunchtime, I plugged in the charger. I continued to send text messages and browse the web via Wi-Fi (screen brightness was on minimum). The battery level did not rise from 1% even after 5 minutes! You can see that in the battery log. Yes, the phone's battery was almost dead in less than three hours.
Oh, also, the first day I got the phone, after I finished rooting and flashing MIUI and everything... I was playing Dark Legends, over Wi-Fi (screen was at lowest, again). Battery got down to 6%, I plug it into the charger. Ten minutes later, battery was down to 2% ! ! ! So, the charger cannot keep up !
I did my homeworks and did a "bit" of Google searching... it turns out the charger is just as it is. But this is just ridiculous.
-----
I remember seeing something on Twitter several months ago... an article regarding an app that would let you adjust how much power the Galaxy S2 can draw from the charger it's connected to, simply by dragging around a slider. I'm not wrong, I DID see such an article - I just can't find it anymore!
Anyone... any suggestions, please?
Also, please note that I am in Europe, Romania, so I can't just go to a shop and find the most awesome charger that outputs 2A for $5 like you guys can (there, in the US)... It's not really at hand for me, lol.
So, conclusion is the phone can consume more amps during usage than the stock charger can supply.
Either reduce the power usage (lower brightness, disable WiFi/BT) when you're using the phone during charging or get a more powerful charger (although I remember the latest stock ICS kernels don't like charging at a higher voltage than the stock charger supplies, so you'll probably have to install a different kernel which doesn't have this limitation).
Oh, and please stop the non-sense about being in Romania and not having options to buy, the market's full of all kinds of chargers. Get out of the house and search, "lol".
This is not uncommon.
In fact, with my PREVIOUS phone, the SE Mini Pro (the original one), it was actually possible to drain the battery till the phone shut down, even on it's original charger.
With some modified power settings, mostly in CPU voltages, it is quite possible to have the SII charge properly even while in use, but bear in mind, it will take longer to charge if you are using it.
VAXXi said:
So, conclusion is the phone can consume more amps during usage than the stock charger can supply.
Either reduce the power usage (lower brightness, disable WiFi/BT) when you're using the phone during charging or get a more powerful charger (although I remember the latest stock ICS kernels don't like charging at a higher voltage than the stock charger supplies, so you'll probably have to install a different kernel which doesn't have this limitation).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Playing Dark Legends, via 3G this time (so the power consumption would be higher, right?), screen at FULL BRIGHTNESS, Bluetooth and GPS activated. Battery Monitor Widget tells me the current being drawn is 641mA. Looks like the phone draws 641mA when charging, ~80% of the time.
The only problem seems to be when the battery level is LOW. Then, no matter what you do, the power level just doesn't rise.
With HTC / Motorola, the power draw was maximum when the battery was at its (almost) lowest level, and would decrease as the battery was filling. With the SGS2, it looks like it draws 640mA from 0% to 70%, THEN it begins to slow down.
VAXXi said:
Oh, and please stop the non-sense about being in Romania and not having options to buy, the market's full of all kinds of chargers. Get out of the house and search, "lol".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, but trust me, I have. You know, in our country, even cheap Chinese copies are over-rated. It's hard to find stuff like what they have in the US .
I've seen some sort of a digital charger, so-to-say, which would allow you to set the amperage and voltage that was being outputted. It was able of throwing out anything from .5 to 2 amps, at 3.7 - 5.5V (given your choice). Guess what : friend got it from the States...
You don't see such stuff here, in Romania.
Oh well...
Sideromelane said:
This is not uncommon.
In fact, with my PREVIOUS phone, the SE Mini Pro (the original one), it was actually possible to drain the battery till the phone shut down, even on it's original charger.
With some modified power settings, mostly in CPU voltages, it is quite possible to have the SII charge properly even while in use, but bear in mind, it will take longer to charge if you are using it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the HTC EVO 3D and Motorola ATRIX, it was yet to be proven whether undervolting the CPU would increase battery life or not. Undervolting as much as 200mV only reduced the ammount of heat that was generated (especially during gaming sessions). Although current = heat... the power consumption didn't seem to change a bit!
I even tried to downclock the CPU to 400 MHz - power draw would still not be sufficient in order for the phone to charge (when the battery level was under 10%). Everything was turned off, light on lowest, CPU pretty low... still going down, lol.
I have also experienced this in the past.... which was rather annoying if I must say however, recently I haven't had this issue, although it still charges quite slowly, it's slightly faster than before. I noticed this difference after I decreased the voltage from the cpu in each step, yes my phone is heavy undervolted thanks to magic config, might want to check that out, but it's still as smooth as ever without a hint of lag props to the hyperdroid team...they are the best in my opinion, I use their rom since the hd2 days recommend their rom to all galaxy s2 users.
Anyway, my point is, I can have my screen in full brightness and still use the phone as is when off charge and it will continue to charge. Also, battery life isn't an issue for me anymore after undervolting, I can live with 15 hours battery life under extreme heavy usage with full screen brightness of 4-5 or more hours of screen on time....and that's with 1650mah battery. I plan to get an official 2000mah battery which will increase it's life more
Samsung Galaxy SII Xtreme ED
Xtreme Energy-Xtreme Power to Live
Impossible made Possible
shadyr25 said:
I have also experienced this in the past.... which was rather annoying if I must say however, recently I haven't had this issue, although it still charges quite slowly, it's slightly faster than before. I noticed this difference after I decreased the voltage from the cpu in each step, yes my phone is heavy undervolted thanks to magic config, might want to check that out, but it's still as smooth as ever without a hint of lag props to the hyperdroid team...they are the best in my opinion, I use their rom since the hd2 days recommend their rom to all galaxy s2 users.
Anyway, my point is, I can have my screen in full brightness and still use the phone as is when off charge and it will continue to charge. Also, battery life isn't an issue for me anymore after undervolting, I can live with 15 hours battery life under extreme heavy usage with full screen brightness of 4-5 or more hours of screen on time....and that's with 1650mah battery. I plan to get an official 2000mah battery which will increase it's life more
Samsung Galaxy SII Xtreme ED
Xtreme Energy-Xtreme Power to Live
Impossible made Possible
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's... impressive.
I'm using MIUIv4 (WIUI) wth Siyah v3.2.6.3 kernel. For some reason, if I undervolt even -50mV, the phone freezes :/
Formhault said:
That's... impressive.
I'm using MIUIv4 (WIUI) wth Siyah v3.2.6.3 kernel. For some reason, if I undervolt even -50mV, the phone freezes :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's.... weird. I thought siyah kernal was more undervolt friendly :/ besides, I read somewhere that not every galaxy s2 can handle undervolting whilst some can. Rather, it could be the kernal too, I use the redpill kernal provided from the hyperdroid team, it's not the best in benchmark wise but what the heck... it doesn't stop to lag, it's extremely fast and responsive, great battery life, undervolt support for further improvements... you won't even notice any slowness compared to high benchmark devices. Red pill kernal is well optimised. I use noop scheduler and conservative governor, it's amazing how redpill handles this. Try it some time. Could solve your problem.
Samsung Galaxy SII Xtreme ED
Xtreme Energy-Xtreme Power to Live
Impossible made Possible
Formhault said:
The only problem seems to be when the battery level is LOW. Then, no matter what you do, the power level just doesn't rise.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just like your 48x CD burner doesn't write at 48x from start to finish, that's how the charging current is not constant; it depends on the remaining capacity, charging algorithms, etc. You're using a special case and asking too much, the solution has been given already (powerful charger and modified kernel to allow a higher charging current and voltage).
Formhault said:
You don't see such stuff here, in Romania.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes you do. I got a 1A Energizer charger which really gives 1A for less than 10$. The variable supply you're describing can be found in any proper electronics shop, try "Maica Domnului" street
VAXXi said:
Just like your 48x CD burner doesn't write at 48x from start to finish, that's how the charging current is not constant; it depends on the remaining capacity, charging algorithms, etc. You're using a special case and asking too much, the solution has been given already (powerful charger and modified kernel to allow a higher charging current and voltage).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I know that. That's exactly what I'm saying. The algorithm is different on the S2, it seems.
On all HTC devices I had, the current draw was at its highest (~900mA) when the battery was near depletion, and as the battery was filling up, the current draw was slowly decreasing. On the S2, it looks like it's the other way around. When the battery is nearly empty (1%), barely 100mA are being drawn. As it fills up, near 10% or so, the current draw remains steady at ~641mA, and decreases only past the 70% point.
Good thing is, the current draw remains steady at 641mA, no matter how much I stress the phone! That's astonishing - the other day, the battery was LEAKING 600mA instead of GETTING 641mA when the simplest tasks were done (no stress, that is), during charging...
Guess the guy who had this phone before me didn't really ever charge up the battery properly He said he had an iPhone charger back at home; I told him "nevermind, keep it".
shadyr25 said:
That's.... weird. I thought siyah kernal was more undervolt friendly :/ besides, I read somewhere that not every galaxy s2 can handle undervolting whilst some can. Rather, it could be the kernal too, I use the redpill kernal provided from the hyperdroid team, it's not the best in benchmark wise but what the heck... it doesn't stop to lag, it's extremely fast and responsive, great battery life, undervolt support for further improvements... you won't even notice any slowness compared to high benchmark devices. Red pill kernal is well optimised. I use noop scheduler and conservative governor, it's amazing how redpill handles this. Try it some time. Could solve your problem.
Samsung Galaxy SII Xtreme ED
Xtreme Energy-Xtreme Power to Live
Impossible made Possible
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The benchmarks are simply amazing; even with the CPU downclocked to 800 MHz...
I'll look for that kernel, hope it's MIUIv4-compatible. Thank you!
VAXXi said:
Yes you do. I got a 1A Energizer charger which really gives 1A for less than 10$. The variable supply you're describing can be found in any proper electronics shop, try "Maica Domnului" street
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Everyone's talking about a specific shop down that street... and I never got to actually go there. Guess I gotta look for it... Was kind of doubting it was much of a big deal.
-----
I thought posts made within a specific time range were supposed to merge... That obviously didn't happen. Sorry for the multi post

HP TOUCHPAD - PowerOFF- Prevents Battery Drain

PowerOFF Prevents Accidental Battery Drain.
The main issue with the Tablet has been a dead battery, not turning on and showing a battery symbol.
The condition has been associated with the Tablet been brick as it just kill itself, I will call it Suicidal Mode.
From my experience and by coincidence I have seen how a Tablet that has been off for days will turn on by itself.
Once a Tablet turns on by itself, it boots into the moboot menu and then to the default OS, Android or Recovery.
It will stay on until the battery gets depleted then it shutdown, without the user been aware of the Tablet's Suicidal Mode.
Another possible scenario is when traveling with the Tablet. Sometimes it needs to be pack or place in storage.
It only takes the power button to accidentally get press for the Tablet to boot and drain the battery.
There is no option or command in moboot to select shutdown by default when the Tablet turns on, paving the way for the Suicidal Mode to be executed.
The solution is PowerOFF, if by any means the Tablet turn on accidentally and the user is not aware it will turn off automatically preventing booting into Android or Recovery.
When to Flash PowerOFF:
When taking the Tablet on a trip or is going to be handle unsupervised.
The Tablet will not be use for a period of time or place in storage.
The user does not want the Tablet to automatically boot into Android or Recovery, but stay off.
If the Tablet is full charge and place in normal room temperature it should last approximately 6 month or more.
The following files can be flash in TWRP Recovery:
Click HERE to Download PowerOFF
1. Flash_PowerOFF.zip -- Copy uImage.PowerOFF into boot and makes it the boot default.
2. Remove_PowerOFF.zip -- Remove PowerOFF from boot and makes Recovery the boot default.
To make the Android version the boot default, re-flash the HpTp from the already flashed ROM.
There is no need to re-flash the ROM.
If the /boot partition is full and PowerOFF can not be flash or work properly then flash:
Clean_Boot_Remove_All_ROM_Boot_Files.zip
It will create a backup of /boot into the Micro SD Card.
Delete all Android boot images, freeing space to copy PowerOFF.
How PowerOFF works.
The flash file by FLINTMAN-update-TWRP-touch-data_media-SELINUX-TEST-Build_4-25-14.zip
Is modified and reduced to turn off the Tablet instead of launching TWRP.
The size of PowerOFF is 5.1MB which allows it to coexist in the boot partition with TWRP Recovery 3.2.1 and any Android boot uImage.
Many thanks @flintman for porting TWRP Recovery to the HP Touchpad that has made it possible to flash any ROM, also for all the great Android ROMs....!
I can unequivocally say I have never had any of the 4 TouchPads I have owned in the last 9 years turn on by themselves. I have never before now heard the topic discussed in any TouchPad thread or forum. If one properly packs their tablet for a trip, it should not get inadvertently turned on by the power button getting pressed while packed in your luggage. That being said, lucky you to own one that does. My question is, once your modified version of TWRP is installed, I guess that your TouchPad sits there, turns itself on and then your UImage turns it off. Then it turns on again and then it turns off. I wonder how long before your TouchPad runs out of battery sitting there turning itself on and off? Maybe you should install a battery disconnect switch instead.
So the question is, does this keep a TouchPad turned off or is it going to sit there and cycle on and off?
smithylovestouchpad said:
So the question is, does this keep a TouchPad turned off or is it going to sit there and cycle on and off?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Tablet will be kept off.
Shutdown ( permanent off ) PowerOFF
Reboot ( turns off, then on )
PowerOFF is the same command used in Android and TWRP Recovery to shutdown the device.
By having PowerOFF as the default in the moboot menu, is guarantee that the Tablet will turn off automatically and prevent a battery drain when it gets turn on by accident.
A simple test:
Tablet is off, but connected by USB cable to any PC or Laptop that are also off.
Once the PC turns on, it triggers the Tablet connect to it by USB to come on. It will boot into Android or Recovery.
When the PC is turn off and the user forgets to turn off the Tablet, it will keep working until it shutdown for low battery (only in Android) in Recovery will be a total battery drain.
The Tablet can be off and connected to the wall outlet any spike in electricity will trigger the Tablet to come on.
Because is connected to the outlet it will keep charging and nothing will happen to the battery, unless for some reason it gets overheated.
But if the user does not want it to automatically boot into Android or Recovery it will always be kept OFF.
PowerOFF is like a safety option that will prevent the Tablet to be ON unattended; without the user be aware.
So if I interpret you correctly:
Shutdown ( permanent off ) PowerOFF
Reboot ( turns off, then on )
if a TouchPad with your version of TWRP in /boot, if the tablet gets turned on by accident or for some other reason that you describe, it willn be turned off. You said you have a TouchPad that turns on by itself. You did not explain why it does this. The point I am making is, if a TouchPad turns on, your TWRP will turn it off. If it turns on again, your TWRP will turn it off. So theoretically, a TouchPad could sit there turning on and off until the battery died. Am I correct? There is no permanent off, just the version of TWRP that keeps turning the TouchPad off every time it turns itself on.
I had mine do this on occasion over the years.
Mostly due to operator error. I'd power it off and then place it Power Button side down...
Also on travel I've packed 'em wrong and they would be dead when I got 'em out of my case. Again operator error...
I've also seen them just boot up on their own resting on a stand in landscape position. I attribute this to the 'gremlins' I have running around my place.
middle_road said:
I had mine do this on occasion over the years.
Mostly due to operator error. I'd power it off and then place it Power Button side down...
Also on travel I've packed 'em wrong and they would be dead when I got 'em out of my case. Again operator error...
I've also seen them just boot up on their own resting on a stand in landscape position. I attribute this to the 'gremlins' I have running around my place.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My question still remains if you pack your TP in your baggage resting on the power button, is this fix going to prevent your tablet from cycling on and off or are your gremlins going to have fun turning your TP on every time this fix turns it off? If that is the case, I don't see the value in putting this modified version of TWRP in /boot.
Smithy
middle_road said:
I had mine do this on occasion over the years.
Mostly due to operator error. I'd power it off and then place it Power Button side down...
I will call that, design error. The Power Button on mobile devices should be flush with the casing to prevent accidental contact.
Also on travel I've packed 'em wrong and they would be dead when I got 'em out of my case. Again operator error...
Unless the Tablet is pack in it's original cardboard box when traveling, it will be difficult to predict what it could happen. There are too many variables on traveling to define a perfect way to pack it, is unpredictable even on an airline you may not get your luggage at all.
I've also seen them just boot up on their own resting on a stand in landscape position. I attribute this to the 'gremlins' I have running around my place.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have also seen by coincidence a Tablet booting up, just place flat on a table. When the Tablets are full charged and place in normal room temperature, the battery should last for about 6 months or more with no need to recharge it or getting completely drain.
Last month a couple of Tablets got full charge and place on a table. One day as I was passing by the screen turn on into moboot and then to Recovery as there was no OS installed, then I turn it off and did not give it any importance. Over two weeks ago I try to turn on the same Tablet, but nothing will happen. Place it on the wireless charger and the Home Button LED light came on moving side to side, after some time the Low Battery symbols came on and then after some hours it booted into Recovery. The other Tablet also had a drain battery but it booted into the Low Battery symbol. That is when I decided to look for a way to keep the Tablet off if by any means got turn on and PowerOFF was my solution.
I am not saying that all Tablets do turn on by themselves but some do and that can explain why some users report of dead batteries and others pull a Tablet that has been stored in a drawer for long time and still have battery remaining.
What could cause a Tablet to turn on by itself?
I do not have an answer, but only speculations.
((( Electrical spike (surge) of the battery that tricks the charging board that it got plug into a PC or charger...... )))
smithylovestouchpad said:
My question still remains if you pack your TP in your baggage resting on the power button, is this fix going to prevent your tablet from cycling on and off
By "accident" if the Power Button gets press inside the baggage, it will take less than a minute to be turn off.
For the Tablet to possibly cycle on and off repeatedly the Power Button needs to be press constantly.
If the Power Button is in constant pressure in the baggage eventually it could get damage.
or are your gremlins going to have fun turning your TP on every time this fix turns it off? If that is the case, I don't see the value in putting this modified version of TWRP in /boot.
Smithy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If a gremlin decides to turn on the Tablet, it will automatically turn off preventing more gremlins damage and a possible data breach.
PowerOFF is gremlin-proof, it does not provide any visual feedback to keep them entertain, they will quickly acknowledge the Tablet is already malfunctioning and not working moving on to the next mobile device " Your Smartphone"
HP_TOUCHPAD said:
If a gremlin decides to turn on the Tablet, it will automatically turn off preventing more gremlins damage and a possible data breach.
PowerOFF is gremlin-proof, it does not provide any visual feedback to keep them entertain, they will quickly acknowledge the Tablet is already malfunctioning and not working moving on to the next mobile device " Your Smartphone"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you have answered my question. If someone has a TP that has a propensity to turn itself on, your modified TWRP will turn it off but not keep it turned off. So a TP could sit there, turn on, and turn off until the battery is depleted. If a TP gets turned on by accident, for whatever reason, your modified TWRP will turn it off but not keep it turned off. So a TP could sit there, turn on, and turn off until the battery is depleted.
You should be aware that your suggestion that a person should charge their TP to 100% to store it is not recommended by lithium battery manufacturers.
From PowerStream.com:
The batteries should be stored at room temperature, charged to about 30 to 50% of capacity. We recommend that the batteries be charged about once per year to prevent overdischarge.
PowerStream Note: Test data confirms that storage of lithium-ion batteries is best if the cell is partially discharged. In one test by Cadex Electronics ( http://www.buchmann.ca ) after 1 year storage at 25°C the non-recoverable capacity remaining is 96% when stored at 40% initial charge level, but only 80% if stored with 100% initial charge level. This effect is reduced at lower temperature and is a non-issue at 0°C. At higher temperatures the effect is much worse. Cadex's recommendations are to store below 15° C at 40% of full charge (3.5 volts per cell). Our experience is that with cells stored at room temperature for 3 years that the non-recoverable capacity did not decrease, so this is probably manufacturer dependent.
I also have good news for you, Middle_Road's reference to gremlins is only metaphorical. Gremlins are only mythical creatures invented to entertain readers of fantasy literature not attack your TouchPad or Smart Phone. So your devices are safe. :cyclops:
smithylovestouchpad said:
So you have answered my question. If someone has a TP that has a propensity to turn itself on, your modified TWRP will turn it off but not keep it turned off. So a TP could sit there, turn on, and turn off until the battery is depleted. If a TP gets turned on by accident, for whatever reason, your modified TWRP will turn it off but not keep it turned off. So a TP could sit there, turn on, and turn off until the battery is depleted.
You should be aware that your suggestion that a person should charge their TP to 100% to store it is not recommended by lithium battery manufacturers.
From PowerStream.com:
The batteries should be stored at room temperature, charged to about 30 to 50% of capacity. We recommend that the batteries be charged about once per year to prevent overdischarge.
PowerStream Note: Test data confirms that storage of lithium-ion batteries is best if the cell is partially discharged. In one test by Cadex Electronics ( http://www.buchmann.ca ) after 1 year storage at 25°C the non-recoverable capacity remaining is 96% when stored at 40% initial charge level, but only 80% if stored with 100% initial charge level. This effect is reduced at lower temperature and is a non-issue at 0°C. At higher temperatures the effect is much worse. Cadex's recommendations are to store below 15° C at 40% of full charge (3.5 volts per cell). Our experience is that with cells stored at room temperature for 3 years that the non-recoverable capacity did not decrease, so this is probably manufacturer dependent.
I also have good news for you, Middle_Road's reference to gremlins is only metaphorical. Gremlins are only mythical creatures invented to entertain readers of fantasy literature not attack your TouchPad or Smart Phone. So your devices are safe. :cyclops:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is why, usually, your new-in-box device is only partially charged when you unpack it.
Gremlins: They weren't 'invented', they were 'created' based on real world observation and experiences.
So when something happens that can't be explained easily, the Gremlins are guilty until proven innocent.
Especially when dealing with electrons.
...
..
.
middle_road said:
That is why, usually, your new-in-box device is only partially charged when you unpack it.
Gremlins: They weren't 'invented', they were 'created' based on real world observation and experiences.
So when something happens that can't be explained easily, the Gremlins are guilty until proven innocent.
Especially when dealing with electrons.
...
..
.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ROTFLMAF......
My bad,
I also have good news for you, Middle_Road's reference to gremlins is only metaphorical. They were 'created' based on real world observation and experiences. So when something happens that can't be explained easily, the Gremlins are guilty until proven innocent. They will not attack your TouchPad or Smart Phone. So your devices are safe.
How's that?
smithylovestouchpad said:
So you have answered my question. If someone has a TP that has a propensity to turn itself on, your modified TWRP will turn it off but not keep it turned off.
The Tablet will be kept OFF in the same way as it gets turn off in Android, Recovery or moboot menu is all the same.
So a TP could sit there, turn on, and turn off until the battery is depleted.
There has been no reports of a Tablet "constantly" turning on by itself. That is your own theory that it has not been witness or proof, of a Tablet turning back on after just been turn off. There is a difference between "constantly" and "predisposition".
If a TP gets turned on by accident, for whatever reason, your modified TWRP will turn it off but not keep it turned off. So a TP could sit there, turn on, and turn off until the battery is depleted.
To keep any mobile device permanently off, the battery must be disconnected or removed.
Once the Tablet is off is not going to turn on right away, the Gremlin must come and do it again. Maybe you should ask them how often they are going around turning on the Tablets to prove your theory that the battery will get depleted by the use of PowerOFF.
You should be aware that your suggestion that a person should charge their TP to 100% to store it is not recommended by lithium battery manufacturers.
My suggestions comes from the user manual by HP, attached is the link and the screenshot.
It does not mentioned for storage, but constant use.
Click HERE for the HPTP User Manual
From PowerStream.com:
The batteries should be stored at room temperature, charged to about 30 to 50% of capacity. We recommend that the batteries be charged about once per year to prevent overdischarge.
PowerStream Note: Test data confirms that storage of lithium-ion batteries is best if the cell is partially discharged. In one test by Cadex Electronics ( http://www.buchmann.ca ) after 1 year storage at 25°C the non-recoverable capacity remaining is 96% when stored at 40% initial charge level, but only 80% if stored with 100% initial charge level. This effect is reduced at lower temperature and is a non-issue at 0°C. At higher temperatures the effect is much worse.
Temperature is the KEY factor, the environment must be cold and dry. Placing any Device in a regular freezer will make the battery last longer but the humidity could damage other internal components.
Cadex's recommendations are to store below 15° C at 40% of full charge (3.5 volts per cell). Our experience is that with cells stored at room temperature for 3 years that the non-recoverable capacity did not decrease, so this is probably manufacturer dependent.
I also have good news for you, Middle_Road's reference to gremlins is only metaphorical. Gremlins are only mythical creatures invented to entertain readers of fantasy literature not attack your TouchPad or Smart Phone. So your devices are safe. :cyclops:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am aware of the Gremlins terminology, @middle_road already gave a great explanation !
You said: When the Tablets are full charged and place in normal room temperature, the battery should last for about 6 months or more with no need to recharge it or getting completely drain.
Lithium battery manufacturers recommend not doing that. "The batteries should be stored at room temperature, charged to about 30 to 50% of capacity. We recommend that the batteries be charged about once per year to prevent overdischarge."
SIX MONTHS is considered storing a device.
That page from the HP manual has nothing to do with putting your TP away for a long period of time such as you suggest, 6 months. It has to do with every day usage and how to make your battery last longer. If someone even plans to stop using their device for a couple of months, they should drain the battery to between 30 and 50% and then put it away.
Gads, no need to yell, easy on the caps and large fonts.
smithylovestouchpad said:
You said: When the Tablets are full charged and place in normal room temperature, the battery should last for about 6 months or more with no need to recharge it or getting completely drain.
Yes, that recommendation is based on real life usage and not base on lab test that only takes weeks or hours, complete details below.
Lithium battery manufacturers recommend not doing that. "The batteries should be stored at room temperature, charged to about 30 to 50% of capacity. We recommend that the batteries be charged about once per year to prevent overdischarge."
SIX MONTHS is considered storing a device.
My original Tablet from the fire sale has always been charge the opposite, all details below.
That page from the HP manual has nothing to do with putting your TP away for a long period of time such as you suggest, 6 months. It has to do with every day usage and how to make your battery last longer. If someone even plans to stop using their device for a couple of months, they should drain the battery to between 30 and 50% and then put it away.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All devices manufactures include in the manual to fully charge the battery before use and always keep it charge. It does not make any sense at any time to only charge the battery 50-80% to last longer. The device must have a completely full charge battery to get the most out of during use, is common sense.
As for storage, my real life experience has been completely different.
Charging the HP Touchad for that past 3018 days.
My original HPTP 32GB that I bought the very first day of the fire sale on August 20 of 2011 from hhgregg on 10:20 am EST. ( Receipt available )
From: Saturday, August 20, 2011 To Saturday, November 23, 2019 the day of this post it has been:
8 years, 3 months, 4 days or
99 months, 4 days or
431 weeks and 1 day or
3018 days or
72,432 hours or
4,345,920 minutes or
260,755,200 seconds.
The Tablet currently has a perfectly working WebOS, set up to tripple boot into Android (Pie) or LuneOS.
Most of the use has been done in WebOS until late 2016 and has been used as follow:
Full charge to 100 % and after some portable used, recharged to 100 % and place it away, it has always been inside the cover and charge with the regular wall charger.
By 2017 I started using Android more on another pre-owned Tablet and the original has been on a desk inside the cover. It gets fully 1005 charged and turn off.
Some times it has been more than 6 month before it gets turn to check on battery.
I do not know specifically how many times the battery got completely drained, but it did occurred maybe more than 4 times.
The following data and screenshot are of the mentioned Tablet showing the Health Status of the battery.
To get the current and proper battery capacity use this guide:
Click HERE for Novacom command list
open a command prompt or terminal on a PC with the novacom driver an enter:
novacom -t open tty://
then
battery status
to finish enter poweroff or reboot
Code:
[email protected]:~$ novacom -t open tty://
battery status
battery present
voltage: 4113840
percentage: 100
current: -861562
capacity: 6483200
] a6 version
A6 Version: HW Ver: 12, FW Ver (major): 2, FW Ver (minor): 13, Fw Ver (build): 25, Pkg Rev: 12
] poweroff
Sat Nov 23 14:57:51 2019
novacomd socket was closed prematurely
novacom: unexpected EOF from server
The App Dr. Battery in WebOS is used to check on the battery status, attached are screenshots.
The Kernel in WebOS provides all the proper information to the Apps as is the native and provides 100% support to all the hardware including the a6 battery chip.
Click HERE for Dr. Battery forum
The battery is at 93 % capacity, almost as new and according to all the battery manufactures " Lab Test" it should have been dead long time ago.
The Tablet room temperature has always been around 80 - 85 Fahrenheit ( 26 - 29 Celsius ) not the idea of 59F (15C)
It has always been kept full charge when not in use.
This has been a real life test of 3018 days, not in a Lab, an artificial control environment of charging and discharging rapidly.
From my experiences Lab test can provide certain important data but only Time and true usage is the final answer.
There is no way a manufacture can accurate test a product in a short period of time to replicate its real time life expectancy.
Only the user could provide the results after been using the product in a certain way for a prolong period of time.
It will be interesting if current users could issue the command novacom -t open tty:// battery status and report the capacity of the battery.
HP_TOUCHPAD said:
All devices manufactures include in the manual to fully charge the battery before use and always keep it charge. It does not make any sense at any time to only charge the battery 50-80% to last longer. The device must have a completely full charge battery to get the most out of during use, is common sense.
As for storage, my real life experience has been completely different.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your real life experience does not supersede the manufacturer's recommendations on how to properly prepare a lithium battery for STORAGE or periods of non-use such as 6 months. Why would you choose to recommend doing something that goes completely against what the manufacturer suggests?
---------- Post added at 01:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:15 AM ----------
HP_TOUCHPAD said:
My original HPTP 32GB that I bought the very first day of the fire sale on August 20 of 2011 from hhgregg on 10:20 am EST. ( Receipt available )
From: Saturday, August 20, 2011 To Saturday, November 23, 2019 the day of this post it has been:
8 years, 3 months, 4 days or
99 months, 4 days or
431 weeks and 1 day or
3018 days or
72,432 hours or
4,345,920 minutes or
260,755,200 seconds.
The Tablet currently has a perfectly working WebOS, set up to tripple boot into Android (Pie) or LuneOS.
Most of the use has been done in WebOS until late 2016 and has been used as follow:
Full charge to 100 % and after some portable used, recharged to 100 % and place it away, it has always been inside the cover and charge with the regular wall charger.
By 2017 I started using Android more on another pre-owned Tablet and the original has been on a desk inside the cover. It gets fully 1005 charged and turn off.
Some times it has been more than 6 month before it gets turn to check on battery.
I do not know specifically how many times the battery got completely drained, but it did occurred maybe more than 4 times.
The following data and screenshot are of the mentioned Tablet showing the Health Status of the battery.
To get the current and proper battery capacity use this guide:
Click HERE for Novacom command list
open a command prompt or terminal on a PC with the novacom driver an enter:
novacom -t open tty://
then
battery status
to finish enter poweroff or reboot
Code:
[email protected]:~$ novacom -t open tty://
battery status
battery present
voltage: 4113840
percentage: 100
current: -861562
capacity: 6483200
] a6 version
A6 Version: HW Ver: 12, FW Ver (major): 2, FW Ver (minor): 13, Fw Ver (build): 25, Pkg Rev: 12
] poweroff
Sat Nov 23 14:57:51 2019
novacomd socket was closed prematurely
novacom: unexpected EOF from server
The App Dr. Battery in WebOS is used to check on the battery status, attached are screenshots.
The Kernel in WebOS provides all the proper information to the Apps as is the native and provides 100% support to all the hardware including the a6 battery chip.
Click HERE for Dr. Battery forum
The battery is at 93 % capacity, almost as new and according to all the battery manufactures " Lab Test" it should have been dead long time ago.
The Tablet room temperature has always been around 80 - 85 Fahrenheit ( 26 - 29 Celsius ) not the idea of 59F (15C)
It has always been kept full charge when not in use.
This has been a real life test of 3018 days, not in a Lab, an artificial control environment of charging and discharging rapidly.
From my experiences Lab test can provide certain important data but only Time and true usage is the final answer.
There is no way a manufacture can accurate test a product in a short period of time to replicate its real time life expectancy.
Only the user could provide the results after been using the product in a certain way for a prolong period of time.
It will be interesting if current users could issue the command novacom -t open tty:// battery status and report the capacity of the battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can't believe you would waste all this time and effort to thumb your nose in the face of what the companies that manufacture these batteries recommend. Any smart person would choose to believe what they recommend rather than you.
We haven't even touched on what the current philosophy concerning the charging of lithium batteries is today. It's called the 40/80 rule. Try not to discharge your battery below 40% and stop charging when it reaches 80%. This helps give you maximum battery life.
https://www.csmonitor.com/Technology/Tech/2014/0103/40-80-rule-New-tip-for-extending-battery-life
Just like the recommendation to set the charge to around 50% to store a lithium battery, the 40/80 rule for charging is just a recommendation if you want to get the maximum life from your battery. But I suppose you will take issue with that too since it does not fall into your real life experience.
---------- Post added at 02:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:51 AM ----------
middle_road said:
Gads, no need to yell, easy on the caps and large fonts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sometimes one has to speak a little louder to get through to someone who does not listen very well. And he is definitely hard of hearing when it suits him. His inability to accept real facts as presented it typical for him. He lives in his own distorted reality that does not mesh with the rest of the world. Sad
Look at his response to what I said. What alternate reality is he living in?
smithylovestouchpad said:
Your real life experience does not supersede the manufacturer's recommendations on how to properly prepare a lithium battery for STORAGE or periods of non-use such as 6 months. Why would you choose to recommend doing something that goes completely against what the manufacturer suggests?
Post the link from the battery manufacture that HP outsourced and place it in the Tablet, that state what you have read from other sources that do not produce any batteries at all.
Technically the battery in the Tablet is a Lithium Polymer and was made by Amperex Technology Limited, this is the web site of the real manufacture.
https://www.atlbattery.com/en/index.html
Attached are all the parts and the manufactures.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can't believe you would waste all this time and effort to thumb your nose in the face of what the companies that manufacture these batteries recommend. Any smart person would choose to believe what they recommend rather than you.
I have provided the screenshots, proof or real test of over 8 years. Post the link of a test that was conducted for that long.
We haven't even touched on what the current philosophy concerning the charging of lithium batteries is today. It's called the 40/80 rule. Try not to discharge your battery below 40% and stop charging when it reaches 80%. This helps give you maximum battery life.
The controller (chip) is programed by the device manufacture in this case by HP to take that into consideration. When the battery is showing 100 % charge is not using the full capacity of the battery. That is why HP and all other device manufactures states to fully charge the device before use, it does not say 80 %.
Show me in any manual where it says to charge at only 80 %.
https://www.csmonitor.com/Technology/Tech/2014/0103/40-80-rule-New-tip-for-extending-battery-life
Just like the recommendation to set the charge to around 50% to store a lithium battery, the 40/80 rule for charging is just a recommendation if you want to get the maximum life from your battery. But I suppose you will take issue with that too since it does not fall into your real life experience.
You got to learn the meaning of many words beginning with " recommendation ".
---------- Post added at 02:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:51 AM ----------
Sometimes one has to speak a little louder to get through to someone who does not listen very well. And he is definitely hard of hearing when it suits him. His inability to accept real facts as presented it typical for him. He lives in his own distorted reality that does not mesh with the rest of the world. Sad
Look at his response to what I said. What alternate reality is he living in?[/QUOTE]
I provided my real facts, I am not repeating general information that does not apply specifically to the Tablet.
Prove me wrong and post a screenshot of your Tablet showing the capacity available using:
novacom -t open tty://
battery status
"Technically the battery in the Tablet is a Lithium Polymer"
I never said it wasn't.
"I provided my real facts, I am not repeating general information that does not apply specifically to the Tablet."
Any information from reputable sources about lithium batteries applies to the battery in the TouchPad.
"Show me in any manual where it says to charge at only 80 %."
I never said it was in any manual, I said it was the current philosophy concerning the charging of lithium batteries. Where did you learn to read?
"I have provided the screenshots, proof or real test of over 8 years. "
8 years of screen shots does not supersede the recommendations of legitimate sources of information about charging lithium batteries.
"Prove me wrong and post a screenshot of your Tablet showing the capacity available"
Why would I want to do that? I know exactly how my battery is doing using Battery Monitor Widget.

Question Any suggestions for a Laptop Battery Limiter?

Any suggestions for a Laptop Battery Limiter?
I like to keep my HP laptop plugged in but I want it to stop charging to protect the battery.
There are a few options out there, but I don't see much for reviews.
Battery Limiter
Save battery
3 Best Laptop Battery Management Software to Limit Charging
If you need reliable laptop battery management software to stop battery charging and improve its longevity, we suggest checking out our top.
windowsreport.com
Laptop Battery charging limit
How do I turn on or activate the 80% battery charging limit?
answers.microsoft.com
I use to just pull it on my one laptop, problem being if it losses power.
My dinosaur Latitude has that useful feature.
I think it needs hardware support to work, some laptops like Dell support it.
Is there any good laptop battery store you can recommend?
I need to buy a new battery for my Asus
orb_selektor said:
Is there any good laptop battery store you can recommend?
I need to buy a new battery for my Asus
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used stupid Walmart. A CCP made one but its holding up ok so far. No OEM power indicator like the Dell original though.
Meh... the price was right
Note: watch the lead time when using Walmart. With some vendors it's close to a month!!!
sd_shadow said:
Any suggestions for a Laptop Battery Limiter?
I like to keep my HP laptop plugged in but I want it to stop charging to protect the battery.
There are a few options out there, but I don't see much for reviews.
Battery Limiter
Save battery
3 Best Laptop Battery Management Software to Limit Charging
If you need reliable laptop battery management software to stop battery charging and improve its longevity, we suggest checking out our top.
windowsreport.com
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us...g-limit/237862c0-ddfc-4f21-8dcc-2117fc555fe2[
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://
sd_shadow said:
Any suggestions for a Laptop Battery Limiter?
I like to keep my HP laptop plugged in but I want it to stop charging to protect the battery.
There are a few options out there, but I don't see much for reviews.
Battery Limiter
Save battery
3 Best Laptop Battery Management Software to Limit Charging
If you need reliable laptop battery management software to stop battery charging and improve its longevity, we suggest checking out our top.
windowsreport.com
Laptop Battery charging limit
How do I turn on or activate the 80% battery charging limit?
answers.microsoft.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm in the same predicament with my HP Win 10 laptop. Any chance you ended up with one of the above choices or something else? If so which one and do you recommend it?
dj24 said:
http://
I'm in the same predicament with my HP Win 10 laptop. Any chance you ended up with one of the above choices or something else? If so which one and do you recommend it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I never tried any of them, but I'm still interested.
sd_shadow said:
I never tried any of them, but I'm still interested.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can physically pull the battery but if you loss AC power that's an issue.
Maybe a hardware solution with a switch (and a bypass diode, may work) the be the easiest do it yourself work around.
Rather annoying...
I am also interested in this question! I've always turned my computer off at night and shut it down if I take a break, but some sites say that the computer loses even more power when it starts up again.
I've been doing a bit of reading the last few days and from what I gather- if it's not built into the system then it's not worth it. Newer and modern laptops rarely and never overcharge and go over the max limit. Manually plugging and unplugging actually takes away from the laptop's charge and discharge lifespan so unless it has a really beefy battery it's not worth it. It's also a good idea to not let it really go down below 20-25% too frequently. I've set mine at 20% from the win 10 power saving feature. You should also check your manufacturer's battery optimizing and calibration suggestions as well. Mine for example suggests calibrating their frequently used laptops once every 3 months and their lesser used ones about once a month..
Battery Optimizer will scan your laptop and determine ways to extend the life of your laptop battery. Battery Optimizer will then offer steps to take, as well as anticipated time savings and other battery management features.
This amazing software can help you extend the life of your battery by performing extensive diagnostics and providing simple recommendations and adjustments. You may configure it to monitor your battery usage over time and notify you when it exceeds a specified threshold.
With intelligent profiles for quick settings adjustments, optimizing your battery life is quick and straightforward.
This battery optimizer uses few resources and has no effect on the performance of your computer. Battery Optimizer really tells you how much extra battery life you may save by turning down key hardware and services on your laptop.
In addition, you can make use of features like battery usage alerts when you overuse the battery capacity. So you can set up a battery optimizer to see usage over time.
Hence with the most advanced technology to optimize battery life, this software covers any laptop battery difficulties over time.
This May Work,
Peter
My Acer Aspire 5 A515 is always plugged into AC power. Two distinct disadvantages of Acer, compared to Lenovo: Acer doesn't seem to offer charge-limiting software, and the batteries are usually not removable. So the Acer's battery died in about two years. Meanwhile, the battery on my Lenovo ThinkPad E430 still works after ten years.
Most newwer laptop batteries are designed to be smart, once a battery is 100%, the charger port will rout the incoming power directly to the power supply of the laptop bypassing the battery. Analogous to using a laptop without a battery while connected to power source. Do not drain your battery. It does more harm. Anyways whatever you do , the average difference in life of similar batteries would be a max of 8 – 10 months depending on usage. An important point. Battery life is reduced drastically if it overheats , that is the major culprit. Use an external cooler pad while working.​
In Windows 11, there is no such option that lets you set a charging limit to start and stop charging your laptop battery. If you want to change charging settings and set a charging limit for your laptop battery, you have to change the required settings in your system BIOS. or install the dedicated app developed by your laptop manufacturer.
You may also look inside here:
Free Battery Limiter software for Windows 11/10 PC
A Battery Limiter or Laptop Charging Control software reminds you to remove the charger to protect your devices from overcharging. Here is a list of Battery Limiters for Windows 11/10 PC.
www.thewindowsclub.com
AFAIK TLP is to be used only on Sony and Lenovo and LG and Huawei and ASUS laptops

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