I had a BIG problem with a third party battery charger (RIMAX).
It is a Car charger and a wall mount charger, with USB plug and cable, but IT WORKS ONLY WHEN THE WIZARD IS ON! If the battery goes down for some reason and the phone couldn't turn on, you're lost! :evil:
So, the lesson learned is: before travelling without your original charger check if the one you have could charge the wizard also when is OFF and not only in stand-by mode!
I also have a strange issue with a third party car charger - after plugging in the car charger I have to switch the universal off then on again to make it charge...very wierd!
I've also got one of those, though would prefere one with a bit of cable in the middle to reduce stress on the connector.
Have you checked the amp output on the chargers. They're probably putting out 0.5 amps (USB spec). If you look at the wall charger that came with the wizard, it puts out 1.0 amps. That's why when your battery is completely dead, the 0.5 amp charger can't put enough juice into it to get the battery up to a high enough level.
Actually, according to the USB spec, a device is not supposed to consume more than 100mA without being recognized by the USB host. That is, the USB host is only going to give your phone 100mA until the phone says, "hey, i'd like 500mA, please!"
Sometimes manufacturers may shortcut this and just allow the port 500mA at all times, but a standards-conforming one won't.
This MAY be part of the reason why we have problems charging a completely dead Wizard -- it's only going to get 100mA until the device has enough juice to wake up and request more.
This MAY be part of the reason why we have problems charging a completely dead Wizard -- it's only going to get 100mA until the device has enough juice to wake up and request more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah! - That's the problem I had yesterday - had left my Vario on with TomTom draining away the battery and forgotten about it on Saturday night, had just spent the day moving house and everything was in chaos and had no idea where the charger was.
So when I realised it was dead on Sunday whilst out in the car, I plugged it into the car charger that came with my GPS unit, which I have used to charge the phone many times before - but it would not charge, no light, nothing!
When I got home all I could find was the mains charger for the GPS and a USB cable - tried both and none would put any charge into the phone.
By this stage I was shi**ing myself that the phone, which I got mainly for GPS for travelling around Germany in June, was DEAD - with 3 weeks to go!
of course later in the day, once I had eventually found the proper charger, it took a slight pause after being plugged in and then the little orange light of joy came on and brought me salvation!!!!!
I suspected it might have been something like the previous poster said but not being very technical I really didn't know!!
Thanks.
I've had the same frustrating experience. When the battery is very low or dead the only charger that will work is the original adapter, not the car charger or cradle or pass thru my laptop. As I result I have to carry the original adapter whenever I travel and I often wake up with a dead Wizard if I dont realize how low the battery is when I park it in the cradle.
Very frustrating. I dont understand why Boxwave doesnt use a beefier adapter connected to the cradle.
I've had the same frustrating experience. When the battery is very low or dead the only charger that will work is the original adapter, not the car charger or cradle or pass thru my laptop. As I result I have to carry the original adapter whenever I travel and I often wake up with a dead Wizard if I dont realize how low the battery is when I park it in the cradle.
Very frustrating. I dont understand why Boxwave doesnt use a beefier adapter connected to the cradle.
I've had the same frustrating experience. When the battery is very low or dead the only charger that will work is the original adapter, not the car charger or cradle or pass thru my laptop. As I result I have to carry the original adapter whenever I travel and I often wake up with a dead Wizard if I dont realize how low the battery is when I park it in the cradle.
Very frustrating. I dont understand why Boxwave doesnt use a beefier adapter connected to the cradle.
I had previously made a wireless charging car dock by combining the internals from the LG wcp-700 with an iBolt Alumina ProDock, it worked well for me but wasn't pretty and required 120v power. I had 120v power in my work truck, but I needed a solution for the wife's car, which doesn't.
So, I was finally able to pick up a couple of the Nokia dt-900 charging pads. They were out of stock everywhere around me so eBay was kind enough to provide some for me.
To start, I popped open the nokia charger and it looks like this. The board and charging coils are all one unit that is fastened with screws to the base of the pad.
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I needed to lose the base to save the thickness, so I removed the screws and used 3m mounting tape to hold the board/coils to the face of the pad.
Then I removed the small cover plate from the car dock, again to save thickness. Never mind all the holes cut in the car dock, that was for the previous version.
Then I just used more 3m mounting tape to hold the charging par to the dock, and this is what we have. All that's left is to wire it up to 12v power, it only takes .75a so you won't need anything special. I wired off of the constant power for the stereo with an inline fuse. I wanted constant power so the phone could charge with the key off.
Not exactly elegant, but it's much better than my last version. The reason for all the thickness reduction was so that the arms of the car dock would be long enough to hold the phone with a case on it, an Otterbox Commuter case to be exact. And it works quite well, here a video of me testing with the wife's phone in the case. It's a little awkward to get in the dock because with the case, it's a very snug fit in this dock, definitely wouldn't hold anything larger.
http://youtu.be/Wl3ZFquNqJE
So, I think it worked out okay and was pretty simple to do. It's a little costly with the dock being $30 and the charger being $50, but it's worth it to me to save plugging the phone in 10 or more times a day. I have had more than a couple phones usb ports get broken from abuse over the years, so if I can reduce that risk and add some usefulness, I certainly will.
Really nice job:good: I'm curious how it does on charging? I guess what i want to know is does it actually charge well when streaming music using nav and say making a call heavy load i guess ????
Looks awesome! Nice work. Two questions though -- what brand of dock is that and where did you get it?
I'm currently using the Nokia charger in my car with a power inverter. That works fine enough for me and I intend to stick with it rather than hard wiring. However, my mounting solution leaves something to be desired. I'm using an Exomount right now. I just put the Nokia pad in between the clamps and then set the phone over it. It works okay when driving, but each time I take the phone out, the Nokia falls out as well. Would love to pick up the same mount you have.
Thanks for the kind words, as far as charging speed goes, it's about equal to the cheap car chargers. I have no problem streaming Pandora all day and taking 20-30 bluetooth calls through the stereo. I don't use navigation much, but I think if you were running nav while streaming with the screen on high brightness, you would be lucky to hold power.
The dock is from iBolt, called the Prodock Alumina. It's about $30 on Amazon right now, that and a little mounting tape is all you'll need.
Sent from the Home Depot toilet
I too cracked open my nokia charger just to see what the insides were like(we all do this right?). Its basically the same insides as the palm touchstones, but just much larger, in the palm charger it was a small coil, maybe 1" in diameter. So it got me thinking, as they were both basically the same coil, just exactly how hard would it be to create your own coil. Like say you use that charger, find whatever wire you would use for this application, remove the existing coils and splice in your own. I need to research a little more, mainly what type of wire is needed, but it looks like you could maybe splice into the existing wires from the nokia board and just make your own, larger coil. I would try, but I don't want to mess around too much with my $50 charger lol.
From my understanding the tech isn't too complicated, its just an alternating magnetic field between the charger and phone that is what does the actual charging. Its not some magical stuff, just a current running through a wire. Maybe the larger the coil the bigger the current need, I don't know, anyone else want to try this
rhettnis said:
I too cracked open my nokia charger just to see what the insides were like(we all do this right?). Its basically the same insides as the palm touchstones, but just much larger, in the palm charger it was a small coil, maybe 1" in diameter. So it got me thinking, as they were both basically the same coil, just exactly how hard would it be to create your own coil. Like say you use that charger, find whatever wire you would use for this application, remove the existing coils and splice in your own. I need to research a little more, mainly what type of wire is needed, but it looks like you could maybe splice into the existing wires from the nokia board and just make your own, larger coil. I would try, but I don't want to mess around too much with my $50 charger lol.
From my understanding the tech isn't too complicated, its just an alternating magnetic field between the charger and phone that is what does the actual charging. Its not some magical stuff, just a current running through a wire. Maybe the larger the coil the bigger the current need, I don't know, anyone else want to try this
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be interested to try something like this, trying to create a bigger "sweet spot" for the phone to rest. The Nokia version, as you all can see has 3 coils and it is pretty forgiving as to placement. The LG version on the other hand only has one coil, and in my experience was a bit temperamental about phone placement, especially with a case on it. You'd have to find out what the exact spec is for the wire, then you could freely experiment with different sized coils. I have no idea if this wire is special so someone smarter would need to figure that out.
JTNiggle said:
I'd be interested to try something like this, trying to create a bigger "sweet spot" for the phone to rest. The Nokia version, as you all can see has 3 coils and it is pretty forgiving as to placement. The LG version on the other hand only has one coil, and in my experience was a bit temperamental about phone placement, especially with a case on it. You'd have to find out what the exact spec is for the wire, then you could freely experiment with different sized coils. I have no idea if this wire is special so someone smarter would need to figure that out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed the nokia charger has decent amount of give when it comes to placement. For future reference, the size of the sweet spot on my wooden nightstand is 6.5"x3.5", and keep in my that's all while going through what id say is probably 1/8" of wood, and the fit isn't exactly flush with the bottom of the board. The size of the spot is great for easy placement considering the DNA is just a little over 5.5"x2.5", so I have nearly 1" of space to play with.
Id like to see someone find how large the "sweet spot" is for a single coil while going through different materials too. That way we can find out how much area a single coil can cover or see if overlapping them(like the nokia) can make a difference in terms of area coverage. So that way if we ever want to create something like an entire charging surface on a desk we can know if a single large coil would be need, or just a few well placed small coils would be suffice.
I might post a picture stand, but its not pretty lol. It was just something is just decided to do on a whim, and is still a little rough, but it works really well.
Comparing the Nokia 3 coils to the LG 1 coil, it's obvious that the LG sucks.
The LG pad is probably .75" larger than the phone in each direction, but I only have about .25" of forgiveness from center. It's a pretty small sweet spot. This is with a commuter case on though, I'm sure it's better naked. Because of this, I switched to the Nokia dt-910 for the night stand, plus it holds the phone up so I can see my alarm to hit the snooze.
Sent from the Home Depot toilet
Curious how you are powering this JTNiggle?
I know the pad gets 12v from the included charging brick. Do you have a regulated 12v source? Or does the charging pad seem to deal with the 14+V you get while your car is running? If it can deal with the extra voltage, that'd be pretty awesome. Just a straight wire to either a CIG plug for portability or even to a fused source for permanent install.
I really want to make something like this. I never use the charging pad for many of the reasons listed around the net. Esp for end of the day things when my battery is pretty low and I want to keep using. I have found some regulated DC-DC set ups. The ones that come with multiple tips...but I havent checked to see if one will fit the charging pad.
Oh..one other question... When you assembled the charging pad, is the 3M tape between the cover and the coils? Or is it between the cover and the back of the board. If its between the cover and coils, do you think you could get it back apart again if you wanted or would it destroy the coils?
J.
ghettocruiser said:
Curious how you are powering this JTNiggle?
I know the pad gets 12v from the included charging brick. Do you have a regulated 12v source? Or does the charging pad seem to deal with the 14+V you get while your car is running? If it can deal with the extra voltage, that'd be pretty awesome. Just a straight wire to either a CIG plug for portability or even to a fused source for permanent install.
I really want to make something like this. I never use the charging pad for many of the reasons listed around the net. Esp for end of the day things when my battery is pretty low and I want to keep using. I have found some regulated DC-DC set ups. The ones that come with multiple tips...but I havent checked to see if one will fit the charging pad.
Oh..one other question... When you assembled the charging pad, is the 3M tape between the cover and the coils? Or is it between the cover and the back of the board. If its between the cover and coils, do you think you could get it back apart again if you wanted or would it destroy the coils?
J.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's wired direct, in line with the stereo constant power. I only see 12.6 to 13.1 volts there, the pad has had zero trouble.
The mounting tape is between the coils and the face as well as between the board and the car dock. The tape isn't that strong, it's rated for about 2lbs with a 4" strip and only used 1.5". I was able to disassemble the first version vairly easy.
Sent from the Home Depot toilet
JTNiggle said:
I had previously made a wireless charging car dock by combining the internals from the LG wcp-700 with an iBolt Alumina ProDock, it worked well for me but wasn't pretty and required 120v power. I had 120v power in my work truck, but I needed a solution for the wife's car, which doesn't.
So, I was finally able to pick up a couple of the Nokia dt-900 charging pads. They were out of stock everywhere around me so eBay was kind enough to provide some for me.
To start, I popped open the nokia charger and it looks like this. The board and charging coils are all one unit that is fastened with screws to the base of the pad.
I needed to lose the base to save the thickness, so I removed the screws and used 3m mounting tape to hold the board/coils to the face of the pad.
Then I removed the small cover plate from the car dock, again to save thickness. Never mind all the holes cut in the car dock, that was for the previous version.
Then I just used more 3m mounting tape to hold the charging par to the dock, and this is what we have. All that's left is to wire it up to 12v power, it only takes .75a so you won't need anything special. I wired off of the constant power for the stereo with an inline fuse. I wanted constant power so the phone could charge with the key off.
Not exactly elegant, but it's much better than my last version. The reason for all the thickness reduction was so that the arms of the car dock would be long enough to hold the phone with a case on it, an Otterbox Commuter case to be exact. And it works quite well, here a video of me testing with the wife's phone in the case. It's a little awkward to get in the dock because with the case, it's a very snug fit in this dock, definitely wouldn't hold anything larger.
http://youtu.be/Wl3ZFquNqJE
So, I think it worked out okay and was pretty simple to do. It's a little costly with the dock being $30 and the charger being $50, but it's worth it to me to save plugging the phone in 10 or more times a day. I have had more than a couple phones usb ports get broken from abuse over the years, so if I can reduce that risk and add some usefulness, I certainly will.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great Job...Glad to see more interested in expanding the wireless charging spots. have a question about you running power to constant power, did you put a power switch between that connection? The pads etc do draw power even when not in use, they just use less then say a a/c wall adapter for old way of charging.
It's like any electronic that can be controlled by a remote, even though the unit is off, it stills draws power to be on standby to be able to receive the remote command. As these pads are always looking for that Handshake to start sending power to receiver of the Wireless Charger. This is the only way it would be able to activate itself....Eventually draining your vehicle battery....
Thanks and good luck...
---------- Post added at 01:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:32 AM ----------
JTNiggle said:
I'd be interested to try something like this, trying to create a bigger "sweet spot" for the phone to rest. The Nokia version, as you all can see has 3 coils and it is pretty forgiving as to placement. The LG version on the other hand only has one coil, and in my experience was a bit temperamental about phone placement, especially with a case on it. You'd have to find out what the exact spec is for the wire, then you could freely experiment with different sized coils. I have no idea if this wire is special so someone smarter would need to figure that out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah the only units that would be able to have a larger area to accept charging is the multi coiled pads. The simple basics for Induction Power is that the Receiving Coil is of Exact Size of the Transmitting Coil. This was proven by Tesla over 100 years ago and hasn't changed that Basic need since then.
The Palm Touchstone coil in battery cover is just under the size of the Charger Disc you put the phone on. The Touchstones don't have a circuit board in the design as do other Designs which is needed to do the Handshake between the receiver and Transmitter parts so that charging begins in order to make this safe and not activate by something metal etc coming in contact with the charger.
Like placing a induction abled phone on a Induction Cooktop, it will detect that it is induction and metal parts inside the phone and it may start up but then shut down which is a Good thing for your phone not becoming a melted hunk of junk...LOL...
Someone put a kila-watt device on a charging pad, and said that it drew 0 across the board until the phone was placed on it. Here's the link.
http://forums.wpcentral.com/nokia-l...ing-plate-not-power-vampire-thanks-nokia.html
Hoping that is true, because I wasnt going to put a switch on mine in the car. I still think I might just install a cig plug on mine in case I take my wifes car and want the mount. But maybe Ill get a cig plug with a switch built in so I dont have to unplug. I have a jetta...so it has all sorts of power feeds that act in different ways (always on, on with key, on for a timed period, etc).
I was just concerned about seeing the close to or over 14 volts when running. But its sounding like that might not be an issue. I measured the output of the wireless pad's power brick and it was a pretty constant 12.19 volts. I cant wait to tinker with this.
J.
ghettocruiser said:
Someone put a kila-watt device on a charging pad, and said that it drew 0 across the board until the phone was placed on it. Here's the link.
http://forums.wpcentral.com/nokia-l...ing-plate-not-power-vampire-thanks-nokia.html
Hoping that is true, because I wasnt going to put a switch on mine in the car. I still think I might just install a cig plug on mine in case I take my wifes car and want the mount. But maybe Ill get a cig plug with a switch built in so I dont have to unplug. I have a jetta...so it has all sorts of power feeds that act in different ways (always on, on with key, on for a timed period, etc).
I was just concerned about seeing the close to or over 14 volts when running. But its sounding like that might not be an issue. I measured the output of the wireless pad's power brick and it was a pretty constant 12.19 volts. I cant wait to tinker with this.
J.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, Sorry their are people out there that refuse to listen or believe Tested Facts and push their own Opinions as Facts...lol...Below I got the info for you from the Qi standard Group and other Groups also supply the Technical Specs on this Technology...Enjoy..
*********************************************************************
Wireless Power Efficiency
The energy consumption of battery chargers has two main contributors: charging efficiency and standby power consumption.
STANDBY POWER CONSUMPTION
Unfortunately, many people leave the chargers and cradles connected to mains power when the charger is not used. The standby power consumption (also called “no-load power consumption”) is significant. A simple calculation shows that power consumed in standby mode is about the same as the energy consumed when loading the battery.
We assume that many people will also keep their wireless battery chargers continuously plugged into the mains. One of our main design goals was, therefore, minimize standby power. Go low!
We did go low. In the mean time we have demonstrated a system with only 0.0001 Watt (100 µW) standby power consumption. And that is probably not the bottom.
An estimate of power consumption by wireless chargers.
WHAT ABOUT WIRELESS CHARGERS?
Our wireless chargers also contain an AC-DC power adapter. Let’s assume that is has the same efficiency (72%). Let’s also assumes that it has the same standby power (0.12 W). [footnote: Wireless chargers can have a much lower standby power, but this keeps the comparison easier.] The transfer efficiency of the wireless power link is typically 70%. And assume that the wireless charger replaces 2 wired chargers. The total energy consumption is:
•charging: 1 hours * 4 W / 72% / 70% = 7.9 Wh (we are now charging 2 devices simultaneously)
•standby (no load): 23 hours * 0.12 W = 2.8 Wh
http://www.wirelesspowerconsortium.com/technology/total-energy-consumption.html
---------- Post added at 10:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:39 AM ----------
http://www.a4wp.org/Business White Paper - A4WP.pdf
http://www.a4wp.org/IEEE IMS2012 LC WPT Technical Paper.pdf
http://www.a4wp.org
Here is a Company I have done Business with for years with My Business, they have The modules for Auto, Furniture and My Favorite I've been using, Wireless charging for Drill Cases and tools on the Shelves in my Company Vans....
http://www.leggettecoupled.com/
ghettocruiser said:
Someone put a kila-watt device on a charging pad, and said that it drew 0 across the board until the phone was placed on it. Here's the link.
http://forums.wpcentral.com/nokia-l...ing-plate-not-power-vampire-thanks-nokia.html
Hoping that is true, because I wasnt going to put a switch on mine in the car. I still think I might just install a cig plug on mine in case I take my wifes car and want the mount. But maybe Ill get a cig plug with a switch built in so I dont have to unplug. I have a jetta...so it has all sorts of power feeds that act in different ways (always on, on with key, on for a timed period, etc).
I was just concerned about seeing the close to or over 14 volts when running. But its sounding like that might not be an issue. I measured the output of the wireless pad's power brick and it was a pretty constant 12.19 volts. I cant wait to tinker with this.
J.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
easiest way to check if it's still receiving power while the car is off is simply place the phone on the dock and see if it charges with the engine off. if it's wired with the stereo's negative wire as well (you only stated wired to the constant power) than it wont receive power until the car is on acc. or on anyways. that should calm down anyone's fears about it draining the car's battery while you're gone.
ML417 said:
easiest way to check if it's still receiving power while the car is off is simply place the phone on the dock and see if it charges with the engine off. if it's wired with the stereo's negative wire as well (you only stated wired to the constant power) than it wont receive power until the car is on acc. or on anyways. that should calm down anyone's fears about it draining the car's battery while you're gone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He wanted to have power always, that's why he chose the constant-on on the head unit which is always hot to keep clock and/or memory or Like My Jeep's Infotainment that has to have a constant on so the Hard drive can shut down properly etc.
But that Kill-a-watt post he read, the guy tested it and it shows 0.00...
***************************************************
The Manual for the Kill-a-Watt ez:
Kilowatt-Hour display:
1. To display the total consumed power in Kilowatt-Hours, press the MENU key until “KWH” is indicated in the display.
2. Consumption will be displayed in Kilowatt-Hours (from 0.01 KWH to 9999 KWH). As KWH accumulate, the decimal point in the display will shift to accommodate a full reading.
*****************************************************
The problem is the reader only reads to a 0.01 kwh which this unit is for Home meter testing of kwh usage times Power company rates...
And the tester needs to read down to: From the test site and results from the lowest possible/available from their design tests:
(we have demonstrated a system with only 0.0001 Watt (100 µW) standby power consumption)
I DEF wont be wiring it to constant on power. It'll be switched. My little insert about my jetta was just me brainstorming...that car has some power circuits that are on timers. So without the keys, you can turn on the stereo for a pre-determinted time, etc. A few more options if I decided to hardwire. Having a switch on the power plug would be nice if I use my wife's car, as both her cig lighters are constant on.
In the end...Ill be wiring mine to a plug so I can move it from car to car easily. Just like a GPS. I just picked up a regulated DC-DC adapter that Im going to test. Says it holds 12 via IC control, and it comes with a tip that SHOULD plug right into the power pad. We'll see. I can always fall back on wiring it straight.
And the link I posted...That guy's test is still pretty useful. Its showing that its not exactly sapping energy when not in use. I guess some other charger power bricks pull some measurable power when left plugged in..? I think .0001 watts is pretty insignificant dont you? Even if wired straight to the battery it would take quite a while to drain it any significant amount. Unless Im misunderstanding things...which happens more than I like to admit
Regardless, it wont be wired to any constant source, at least in my car. So it should be good. I cant wait to get my mount and try to fit everything together. Little projects like this are fun!
J.
ghettocruiser said:
I DEF wont be wiring it to constant on power. It'll be switched. My little insert about my jetta was just me brainstorming...that car has some power circuits that are on timers. So without the keys, you can turn on the stereo for a pre-determinted time, etc. A few more options if I decided to hardwire. Having a switch on the power plug would be nice if I use my wife's car, as both her cig lighters are constant on.
In the end...Ill be wiring mine to a plug so I can move it from car to car easily. Just like a GPS. I just picked up a regulated DC-DC adapter that Im going to test. Says it holds 12 via IC control, and it comes with a tip that SHOULD plug right into the power pad. We'll see. I can always fall back on wiring it straight.
And the link I posted...That guy's test is still pretty useful. Its showing that its not exactly sapping energy when not in use. I guess some other charger power bricks pull some measurable power when left plugged in..? I think .0001 watts is pretty insignificant dont you? Even if wired straight to the battery it would take quite a while to drain it any significant amount. Unless Im misunderstanding things...which happens more than I like to admit
Regardless, it wont be wired to any constant source, at least in my car. So it should be good. I cant wait to get my mount and try to fit everything together. Little projects like this are fun!
J.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah just find the RAP Fuse etc, (Retain Accessory Power) and connect their...It works great. You may even have the Option like My Jeep does and change the Time-out minutes to suit your needs.....Yeah what he did was Great, and I did give him a Compliment on his work, problem is just that the Kill-a-Watt is for A/C power meter tests/results and the device being tested is D/C power...kWh is a measure of energy, whilst kW is a measure of power...
•a kW is 1000 W and a W is 0.001 kW;
•a kWh is 1000 Wh and a Wh is 0.001 kWh;
•a MW (megawatt) is 1000 kW and a kW is 0.001 MW;
•a MWh (megawatt hour) is 1000 kWh and a kWh is 0.001 MWh
Yeah this is Fun Stuff isn't it???/ LOL...right now I'm doing custom install of a double charger and a single charger, wireless chargers, in my jeep. I'm Hiding the double charger to the underside of the tray inside the center Console and single charger underside of the Tray on Driver's side. You won't be able to see that their is a charger in each location....
Like to see what you do when you get it up and going....
sircody said:
Great Job...Glad to see more interested in expanding the wireless charging spots. have a question about you running power to constant power, did you put a power switch between that connection? The pads etc do draw power even when not in use, they just use less then say a a/c wall adapter for old way of charging.
It's like any electronic that can be controlled by a remote, even though the unit is off, it stills draws power to be on standby to be able to receive the remote command. As these pads are always looking for that Handshake to start sending power to receiver of the Wireless Charger. This is the only way it would be able to activate itself....Eventually draining your vehicle battery....
Thanks and good luck...
---------- Post added at 01:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:32 AM ----------
Yeah the only units that would be able to have a larger area to accept charging is the multi coiled pads. The simple basics for Induction Power is that the Receiving Coil is of Exact Size of the Transmitting Coil. This was proven by Tesla over 100 years ago and hasn't changed that Basic need since then.
The Palm Touchstone coil in battery cover is just under the size of the Charger Disc you put the phone on. The Touchstones don't have a circuit board in the design as do other Designs which is needed to do the Handshake between the receiver and Transmitter parts so that charging begins in order to make this safe and not activate by something metal etc coming in contact with the charger.
Like placing a induction abled phone on a Induction Cooktop, it will detect that it is induction and metal parts inside the phone and it may start up but then shut down which is a Good thing for your phone not becoming a melted hunk of junk...LOL...
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I do not have a switch for this charger wired in, I did not see the need. The amount of power that this unit draws while not charging is very minimal and the vehicle is driven daily, so we have not had any trouble. I need to make a second one now to put back in my work truck, where I will just wire in line with the existing 12v accessory outlets as they are on 100% of the time. I just like being able to park the car and leave the phone charging if I need for a few minutes or an hour if necessary. If you have to leave the key on then you have a whole bunch of extra accessories trying to run at the same time and then you may kill your car battery trying to boost your cell battery,
For multi coil wireless chargers, I thing we will eventually see them built into all kinds of things, at least I hope so. We have that JBL charging speaker, which is way overpriced, but a more basic clock radio with charging coils on top would be nice. Not just one spot, but say the whole top had coils in it and you could set the phone anywhere. Laptops could have an area below the number pad with a coil or 3 in it, that would be great too. It seems to be useful enough that a few people here have cut wireless charger into their desk or night stands, obviously there is a desire for the tech to grow, so I'm sure it will only keep growing in the near future. I think I may end up building one into the kitchen counter for the wife, she likes to use the phone for recipes and music, so it would be great if I can find a neutral spot that isn't too likely to get wet.
JTNiggle said:
I do not have a switch for this charger wired in, I did not see the need. The amount of power that this unit draws while not charging is very minimal and the vehicle is driven daily, so we have not had any trouble. I need to make a second one now to put back in my work truck, where I will just wire in line with the existing 12v accessory outlets as they are on 100% of the time. I just like being able to park the car and leave the phone charging if I need for a few minutes or an hour if necessary. If you have to leave the key on then you have a whole bunch of extra accessories trying to run at the same time and then you may kill your car battery trying to boost your cell battery,
For multi coil wireless chargers, I thing we will eventually see them built into all kinds of things, at least I hope so. We have that JBL charging speaker, which is way overpriced, but a more basic clock radio with charging coils on top would be nice. Not just one spot, but say the whole top had coils in it and you could set the phone anywhere. Laptops could have an area below the number pad with a coil or 3 in it, that would be great too. It seems to be useful enough that a few people here have cut wireless charger into their desk or night stands, obviously there is a desire for the tech to grow, so I'm sure it will only keep growing in the near future. I think I may end up building one into the kitchen counter for the wife, she likes to use the phone for recipes and music, so it would be great if I can find a neutral spot that isn't too likely to get wet.
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Check these out...I did this in my remodel about 4 years ago, these units have been available for a few years now...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDAY0GgVDWo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gpVl9nHQcnw
Here is the guys that sell it....I was lucky that it's here in Atlanta and My business allowed me to get in on the early stuff...lol
http://ecoupled.com/partners-products/products