Related
Hey guys - does anyone know of any after-market battery covers for the HD that would be metal - specifically for the purpose of attaching to a magnet? I purchased one of those magnetic "cradle" kits that is basically just a big magnet you stick onto whereever, with a little metal slab that you stick onto the back of your phone. Then - you can just stick the phone up close to the magnet and it sticks - a perfect low-profile car cradle. The metal slab that sticks to the back of the phone is thin - it doesn't really stick out any further than the camera housing - but it still isn't as sleek as just the phone by itself. I thought a replacement battery cover that sticks to the magnet would be perfect. So... does anyone know of any? Or perhaps a vendor that could custom-machine one?
SolusCado said:
Hey guys - does anyone know of any after-market battery covers for the HD that would be metal - specifically for the purpose of attaching to a magnet? I purchased one of those magnetic "cradle" kits that is basically just a big magnet you stick onto whereever, with a little metal slab that you stick onto the back of your phone. Then - you can just stick the phone up close to the magnet and it sticks - a perfect low-profile car cradle. The metal slab that sticks to the back of the phone is thin - it doesn't really stick out any further than the camera housing - but it still isn't as sleek as just the phone by itself. I thought a replacement battery cover that sticks to the magnet would be perfect. So... does anyone know of any? Or perhaps a vendor that could custom-machine one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I made my own magnetic car holder solution. Didn't cost much and can't imagine it work better than this...
I can't see what you've done there... It looks like some sort of metal on the battery itself, so that the regular cover works fine... What is that? How is it affixed?
Jouh has placed 2 razor blades on the battery.
Cool! I'm going to try that...
just don't take ur phone to the airport...... they might think ur going to use the razorblades for other non magnetic purposes.
Ohh! Good point! I would have completely forgotten about them and then been really screwed - I actually have to run my mobile through an X-ray every day at work... That could be an issue. Oh well - back to the drawing board...
just do the same with any thin metal i.e. sheet steel.
spzero said:
just do the same with any thin metal i.e. sheet steel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I really wouldn't recommend directly attaching the phone to strong magnetic sources. It may impede the functionality, reduce or affect the battery operation, interfere with the many antennas in the phone, not to mention run the risk of corrupting memory sticks etc?
The phone itself isnt that heavy so probably wouldnt need a strong magnet, but you'd want to use something quite strong just to hold it in place. Imagine driving over a speed bump or pot hole which dislodges the phone and makes it go sliding across your dash board and out of an open window. (worst case scenario..)
If youre looking for a quick release holder I would recommend something that you clip the phone into like those hip holsters and then find one that has a socket connection to a window mount.
makaveli2g said:
I really wouldn't recommend directly attaching the phone to strong magnetic sources. It may impede the functionality, reduce or affect the battery operation, interfere with the many antennas in the phone, not to mention run the risk of corrupting memory sticks etc?
The phone itself isnt that heavy so probably wouldnt need a strong magnet, but you'd want to use something quite strong just to hold it in place. Imagine driving over a speed bump or pot hole which dislodges the phone and makes it go sliding across your dash board and out of an open window. (worst case scenario..)
If youre looking for a quick release holder I would recommend something that you clip the phone into like those hip holsters and then find one that has a socket connection to a window mount.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used the same razors and the same magnet (This one) with my SE P1i for 1½ year without any issues.
And the phone doesn't move 1 mm even driving over the biggest speed bump in Sweden.
makaveli2g said:
I really wouldn't recommend directly attaching the phone to strong magnetic sources. It may impede the functionality, reduce or affect the battery operation, interfere with the many antennas in the phone, not to mention run the risk of corrupting memory sticks etc?
The phone itself isnt that heavy so probably wouldnt need a strong magnet, but you'd want to use something quite strong just to hold it in place. Imagine driving over a speed bump or pot hole which dislodges the phone and makes it go sliding across your dash board and out of an open window. (worst case scenario..)
If youre looking for a quick release holder I would recommend something that you clip the phone into like those hip holsters and then find one that has a socket connection to a window mount.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I honestly couldn't think of one thing that a magnet could have an effect on in the phone, certainly not the memory. The only type of memory that is affected by magnets are HDD (because the data on the disks is stored magnetically) and credit cards (once again, data stored magnetically). However, RAM/ROM is completely different and relies on gates and latches to store data, neither affected by magnet. Not to mention even if it did have an HDD (like old school mp3 players/iPod) it would take a strong magnet (mainly electromagnet) to corrupt the memory. Likewise, I can't foresee it having any affect on the battery or interfering with the antenas (unless you're using some super strong magnet....which you're likely not)
One of the only build quality problems i have with the Touch HD is that the battery cover creaks when pressed in certain spots.
To revive this topic, does anybody know of an actual aftermarket battery cover for this phone, preferably metal?
I searched google to find no results. It seems like it would be a good idea to make these
You can also shave the inside of the battery cover with a small sander. Than add ANY kind of magnet that will than fit inside the cover. The plastic cover is THICK so you can shave enough for some type of magnet.
I would also like a metal/rubber etc back cover. The quality of the orginal cover is driving me nuts..
Has anyone found this kinda aftermarket item?
sudo_x60s said:
I would also like a metal/rubber etc back cover. The quality of the orginal cover is driving me nuts..
Has anyone found this kinda aftermarket item?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any news on that topic?
[GUIDE/DISCUSSION] How to Disassemble Prime / GPS, WiFi, Light Bleed "Fixes"
HOW TO DISASSEMBLE THE ASUS TRANSFORMER PRIME
!!!DO NOT APPLY A HEAT GUN TO YOUR PRIME!!!
Erusman said:
...glued down using
two sided foam tape. Not hot glue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Original credit to Erusman and his bravery to be the first among many to disassemble his Prime in search for the answers we all want. Click his name, keep up with OP, and give THANKS!
Additional credit to jdudb, wgr73, Doktaphex, jupppo, Wordlywisewiz, aznmode, and all other commentators and contributors.
THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL/DISCUSSION PURPOSES ONLY! MYSELF AND ALL CONTRIBUTORS TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DEVICES HARMED WHILE TRYING TO RECREATE THE FOLLOWING SCENARIOS/MODIFICATIONS
I DID NOT PERFORM NOR OTHERWISE CONTRIBUTE TO ANY OF THIS WORK - PLEASE GIVE THANKS WHERE IT'S DUE
I think the correct way of opening is from the bottom first. Unlatch the 2 bottom latch first then work your way up from the side.
The catches are operated through the dock slots and are there for all to see.
Video courtesy of aznmode.
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aznmode said:
I think the correct way of opening is from the bottom first. Unlatch the 2 bottom latch first then work your way up from the side. If you look at the top tabs they are longer than the sides to secure the top better. Making it difficult to snap on if you close from the bottom first. When I closed it up I started from the top by sliding into the tabs rather than snapping it in. Snapped the side and then locked the latches on the bottom.
...
So initially prior to me posting this I had a hard time snapping the top because I followed the original video how to open and just reversed the procedure to close it. Turned out when I eventually shut the top last some of the tabs broke. So again follow my post to do the top first when closing it back up then sides lastly the bottom latches. I notices the tabs were longer so that's when I posted but only looked at the center ones. I reopened since and was following my own precedure to close it. that's when I notice the outer ones broke from when i closed it the orginal way before.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
jdudb said:
The catches are operated through the dock slots and are there for all to see.
...
I think you will find that those pins do hold the bottom of the prime together and as for the tool, any small thin rod would work such as a tiny screwdriver.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Doktaphex said:
First of all I used a tiny torx screwdriver to release the internal catches at the bottom of the Prime. Look in the docking ports on the left and right, there are two small holes. They move with a satisfying click and this IS what holds the base of the Prime together.
...
After just releasing one, I see the arrow. It is pointing in the locking direction.
...
There's a tiny amount of adhesive tape just by the 40-pin connector but there is no more than what is at each corner of the device also. Just be gentle and you can ease it apart.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
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Erusman said:
Made myself some plastic tools for the job.
It opened up so easy!!!!
...
I didn't really think it was going to be
that easy to open up. Trick is starting from the top and using nothing but
plastic tools. (Wedge method of pry and move further down).
...
What you want to do is position first plastic tool center top of prime. Jam it
right in the seam, between black bezel and aluminum frame. Push it down
in there hard. This will give you enough room
to insert other plastic tool in and lift the bezel up. Then its just a matter of
working down the left and right top. When you get to a corner just pry up
very slow... wedge it. Foam tape will slowly give in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Videos courtesy of Doktaphex.
The following videos are "reverse," Doktaphex's laptop automatically recorded as mirror.
jupppo said:
I tried it by myself and the prime is really easily opend and can be closed without any scratch! First I used my fingernail to widen it a bit then I used a sharpend plastic handle from a scalpell to open it.
I put a cable on the pogo pin and... bang. I had GPS signals! I never had any before.
It also explains why pushing on the left side helps the signal: While you push left you lift the board on the right side slghly up, that the pogo has better connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
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LIGHT BLEED "FIX" - THIS MAY OR MAY NOT ALLEVIATE YOUR LIGHT BLEED ISSUES
Erusman said:
While I was in there I took and tightened the screws for the display.
Guess what the small amount of lightbleed I had in the lower left hand corner
is 90% gone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wgr73 said:
As far as light bleed goes
Guys when you remove the back shell, you have total access to the screen! The bleeding is caused by the screen being stressed/too tight, flexing, ect. It can mostly be adjusted out almost 100% I noticed that mine is virtually gone now too. I'll play with the LCD panel some more as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To reiterate, THIS MAY OR MAY NOT ALLEVIATE YOUR LIGHT BLEED ISSUES
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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WHAT TO DO IF YOUR SCREEN BECOMES UNRESPONSIVE OR DISPLAYS STATIC
Erusman said:
The ribbon cable came out partial. That is when the lines appeared.
Be sure to turn off your prime. See OP and picture of the dip switch that turns the power off to mobo. Take the ribbon cable completely out. Take a small eraser from a pencil and VERY carefully go over the connetions on the ribbon cable. This will basically clean them up a little. (same process you do on PCI card copper etching to clean up the connection). Find yourself a very sharp point. I have a some soldering picks that I used. Place the ribbon cable in the connection level. DO not use your fingers to jam the ribbon in. On the side of the ribbon cable is small little notches. These notches are for the tools that the factory uses to place the cables in. Use your sharp pick and puch down on either side with notches. You will see a fine white line. And you may hear even a slight snap when it goes in. But that white line should be flush with the connection on LCD. I hope you get it working again. Let me know. PM me if you have any more problems.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
MODIFICATIONS (& DISCUSSION THEREOF)
Please do not try using the cover as the antenna as it's gounded - even if it wasn't, this device was not made with that in mind
BEFORE ANY SOLDERING OR OTHER HARD TAMPERING, PLEASE TURN THE POWER TO YOUR MOTHERBOARD OFF
ANYTHING CLOSER THAN 1/4" TO 1/2" TO THE BACKPLATE OF THE PRIME WILL EXPERIENCE THE SAME SIGNAL DEGRADATION AS OUR CURRENT STOCK ANTENNA - BE IT INTERNAL OR EXTERNAL
xach said:
Hi all,
i've another method of fixing this wifi/gps issue without any soldering work. Basically i slotted in a small thin piece of plastic under the wifi/gps PCB (where the gold plate is) to get a better connection with the pogo pins. However, this can cause the PCB to be slightly bent and im not sure if there are any long term ill effects.
After this i'm getting better WIFI signal than my HTC Desire and managed to lock on to 9 GPS satellites (previously ZERO) in a semi open place.
The increase in signal is also the same as when i attach a wire to the pogo pin. WIFI performance at long range is still sucky but this definitely helped with the GPS signal.
Insert plastic tab as shown in red circle..i pushed it all the way in until the white piece of plastic cannot be seen. Did it for all three gold plate connectors (WIFI MAIN, AUX and GPS)
sorry i dont have a screenshot of GPS signal yet.. will post it in when i do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Transformer Prime slightly open (pogo pins not connected)
Transformer Prime closed and assembled.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
dpwhitty11 said:
Here's the dpwhitty11 method:
Solder a thin wire onto wifi pogopin (which in my case got rid of the pogopin.... lol whoops. Doesn't matter though). Then route wire out thru mini HDMI-out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Erusman said:
Concept in my mind atm is drill
hole through back of prime to meet pogos. Solder on some antenna.
My prime is always in leather case so that would be cool.
Or play around and solder connection to factory wifi antenna. Bypass the
pogos.
...
Alright guys. Just got done doing a bypass of the pogos. I soldered some
wires to the pogos directly to the wifi antenna. Did a cold reboot. snap shut.
First thing I tested was GPS, using GPS test. It sat there for 60 seconds
and I still had 0 birds in view. Took it outside and it did start to pick up
some sats but they came up slow. Must be the aluminum backplate
blocking the signal.
Wifi worked better than it did before. (lol probably because the primary
wifi antenna was now connected.) I think the secondary was the only thing
working on my prime before. I actually got 32mbs and 5mbs! Same
as all my other tablets. HOWEVER, soon as I started to walk away from
my router the signal degraded. Speedtest results went down the further
I walked away.
I took the prime outside in the same spot about 50 feet from router as I did
with the alligator clips connected the other night. I did have one bar. Instead
of full bars the other night. Speed was around 8-9mbs and 800k 1mb with
speedtest.
You can draw your own conclusions on what is going on....
Aluminum backplate is interfering with GPS and Wifi...
It works but the signal is weak.... WHY? Asus put the wifi antenna in a spot
that doesn't see its way around the aluminum backplate.
Pogo pins.. hopefully they will use soldered wires instead of pogo pins next
time. I can see these little things not connecting to copper plate so easy.
But nothing compares to the Wifi/GPS PCB (printed circuit board) flaw!
I laughed for hours after seeing how the copper etching wasn't even connected
in the PCB.
Alright well good luck everyone! I am not going to do a final mod for myself.
I usually have my tablet in a leather case all the time. So i am just going to
put some external antenna on this thing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Erusman said:
Well what the hey. Finish my mods and prime is back together. I was just
going to wait to this weekend to finish it. But I wanted my prime back! Its
sitting all pretty in my leather case working great! Sorry its late and I didn't
take pics.
I just removed the PCB wifi in it. Removed the pogos. Drilled some holes
in backplate. Solder some solid gauge wire to GPS, Primary and secondary
wifi. Wires went out back. (about 5 inches in length).
While I was in there I took and tightened the screws for the display.
Guess what the small amount of lightbleed I had in the lower left hand corner
is 90% gone. (lol that must be the issue with the lightbleed!) I am too tired
to go back in and fiddle with it. Someone else can play with it.
Wifi is awesome. Walked all around my house and had three bars. GPS
worked and was fast. (maybe do a road trip in few days).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wgr73 said:
If I were you I'd trim your wires just 1-2mm outside of the case. It looks like they are hanging out several inches. Your signal will not change if you trim them, as long as the wire is exposed out of the rear case. I have tried different lengths and they have no effect outside of the case (also, you don't need the alligator clips on the ends).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Erusman said:
***Update***
Ok I finished my final mod. I made myself some mini wifi antenna and placed them in my case. The mini wifi antenna are composed of a thin straw surrounded by heat shrink tubing. Capped with a plastic hole plug. Wires that come out of my tablet are inserted in the straw. Heated with lighter and sealed.
The mini wifi antenna I can pull up or down out of my case to extend the WIFI range. I am pulling three bars at more than 50 feet away. Amazing!!
I had to laugh a little because my prime kinda looks like a little android with the antenna stickin out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Erusman said:
Ok, I just finished up another mod to my prime. My goal was to be able to mount the prime in a vehicle and use it on the road. So i needed the best WIFI and GPS I could get. And I did it!
Meet Optimus Prime
...
I replaced the old mod with external SMA male connectors and was able to mount on some external WIFI antenna. Large ones atm. But I have some small 2.4ghz stubby antenna on order.
...
I still need to mod my leather case to be able to insert the SMA connectors in it. However, I noticed with just the SMA connectors sticking out and NO WIFI antenna attached I still get good WIFI
(Both Factory WIFI PCB removed with soldered connection to SMA's)
The WIFI range on this thing is AMAZING! Full bars every place in my house and even out in my yard! 50+ feet away from my router. I think its limited to the range of my router more than anything now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
RipplingHurst said:
But I'm thinking rerouting the antenna to the headphones would work. Could the headphone wires work as the antenna, similar to the alligator clips?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wordlywisewiz said:
Another idea would be to for an extreme antena would be to desoder the connections to the headphone jack then put a small wire from the wifi antenna to the headphone jack and sorry it lol then you can make a custom antenna with a standard 3.5mm connector
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wgr73 said:
More data guys. So I've wired my gps connection to the headphone jack, close the prime and the results are below:
...
Prime closed, GPS connected to my earphone jack. Results = not the best by any means but its getting there. I will try alternate points.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wgr73 said:
I can manage 11-15 sats (12 locked) with my headphone mod
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
janaha_ said:
Don't know what I hooked up to here, but it is ground.
5-6 birds and lock in about 10 sec with gps status.
Will test some more, and do a more permanent solution if it works OK.
If I remember correctly someone here asked if the pads that contact the antennas are conductive.They are on mine.Goes to backpanel.Ohm meter showed few ohms, but diode tester beeped.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
wgr73 said:
So guys I was able to get 16 satellites in view indoor and 18 outside. What I did was unsolder the pogo pin and solder a wire directly to the board! Check out the pictures.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
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janaha_ said:
The connector pins are the same used on wifi cards and are not related to GPS (I had a pigtail? connector laying around and it didnt't improve my signal, nor wifi)
I too struggle with no gps birds and not the best wifi when moving away from the router.
Like others the wlan/gps PCB is faulty, with no connection on the wlan part.
I didn't want to solder anything in case I wanted to return it, so I used copper wire and tape
Wifi improved, but didn't go through the roof (maybe 2-3 mbit)
GPS found no birds(tried for an hour last night with no success.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Erusman said:
look at this picture of Wlan antenna. Now look very closely at
what i circled in red!!! OMG! no wonder my wifi wasn't working!!! PCB has
design flaw!!! Its not even connected to the so called antenna! I used volt
meter to test as well. NO CONNECTION
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Erusman said:
This pcb is glued to front half of prime. Pogo pin pushes against copper pad
circled in red to make connection on this pcb. The connection suppose to
follow all the way up to the top of those thin soldered on copper antenna.
It DOESN'T. There is a gap in the design of the PCB. GPS side is completely
connected. Wifi side is not.
...
One thing is for certian. That PCB of the Left side Wifi is flawed. Never made
a connection. So that is why so many primes wifi suck. Only secondary
antenna on right side was working. Asus knows what primes (serial numbers)
have the flawed wifi pcb. They need to issue a press release and statement of
such! Its only right.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Erusman said:
I just want someone to test the gapped WIFI / GPS PCB. I have a feeling this PCB is doing NOTHING for WIFI.
I can't because I removed both my WIFI PCB on top and pogos.
Both WIFI PCB are glued down and DO come out very easy. You just have to take your time.
1.) Record WIFI db with WIFI analyzer and Speedtest) Factory.
2. ) Remove the right WIFI PCB. (One that doesnt have GPS with it and not gapped.)
This will leave the gapped LEFT wifi antenna still in tablet.
3.) Close up your prime and record results of only using the left PCB WIFI / GPS.
I can bet that you will get NO bars for your WIFI and you will get next to nothing with WIFI results.
Conclusion. Left WIFI/GPS PCB is not doing nothing for WIFI and the gap in the copper etching is a factory flaw.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Doktaphex said:
I guess everyone missed it when I mentioned that I had done a test with the main WiFi antenna connection covered with electrical insulation tape.
What happened in this situation was that I got almost no wifi signal whatsoever. So actually the Main antenna is pulling almost all of the signal and the AUX connector is just boosting it a tiny little bit.
...
yesterday I covered the connection to the main WiFi PCB with electrical insulation tape. When testing WiFi after this with only the AUX antenna, I got almost no reception whatsoever.
Therefore, the main WiFi antenna is working correctly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Erusman said:
Thank you Dokaphex!! Then there it is. I bet you will find if you cover both sides of the WIFI PCB's with tape you will get same result. The LEFT WIFI PCB is doing nothing. Because with bare pogos not touching anything. You still get some WIFI. (I am talking no bars on WIFI bar) but like 5%.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ruprect said:
Erusman, you need to get this through your head .... RF signals do not need a piece of copper to get from A to B. Propagation, for example, is the fact that there is a big gap between the tv station transmitter and your tv antenna. yes the tv transmitter has megawatts of power behind it but the signals jumps the gap yes?
THAT GAP ON THE PRIMARY ANTENNA IS NOT A FACTORY FLAW
It is designed that way because that gap has one side of it at ground and the other side of that finely tuned gap will 'see' a carrier wave of a predefined band of frequencies. When combined with the other circuitry in the wifi signal reception, it delivers an adequate signal to be further processed down the line.
IT is Designed that way, please drop the faulty pcb talk, it is ridiculous.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Erusman said:
Like i said I am layman when it comes to electronics. Thanks for the RF instruction. HOWEVER, I find it hard to believe you got WIFI from the Gapped PCB when others have not. Others have covered the RIGHT WIFI PCB all together and had nothing but the LEFT WIFI Gapped PCB working. They had no bars on their WIFI fan. Was getting minimal WIFI. WHY? Because the Left WIFI PCB is not working. I have taken out both PCB and I still had some WIFI as well. I was getting no bars with both WIFI PCB and same results as when only the LEFT WIFI PCB was left in. (Approx 5% of WIFI signal... NO bars on WIFI fan. Speedtest 1.8mbs 500k vs 32mb 5mbs) These are the tests we have done. I thank you for your input.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
micaman said:
OK, I am once again stating that I have no technical background with this stuff so call this theory ridiculous if you like but I think its the GLUE. Yes the amount of glue that is used to secure the PCB in place Its seems like it would be the only variable in everyone's tablet. The amount of glue and the placement (flow) of the glue would be very difficult to control in the manufacturing process, thus the variable in everyone's prime.
Now the amount/placement of glue is either causing variances to
(a)the physical separation from the aluminum backing or
(b)compression causing a better connection to the pogo pin.
In essence the glue is causing the same effect as the shim some are using.
Considering some have already tried bypassing the pogo and soldering directly to the PCB I'm thinking its (a)
Pics of the backside of the PCB would be great.
...
I lean towards (a) not (b).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
jdudb said:
Since there seem to be many theories why there is poor antenne performance once lowered into the recess of the back, I might as well put my theory forward. I think that there is just too much radio noise from the circuits and it is drowning out the signals from both the GPS and WIFI. Maybe the latest tegra chips have excessive electrical noise? Has anyone else thought of putting a grounded insulated shield between the antenna and the main board with holes for the pogo pins? Say a sheet of aluminium foil covered on both sides with sticky back plastic and a small portion left bare so that it can contact the edge where the copper tags are.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ruprect said:
small piece of ESDS bag, I thought of using, but now I`ve by passed the pogo pins, I no longer subscribe to this theory
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Erusman said:
The copper loops on top are the antenna. And they are not grounded. Look at this pic. Where the copper loops on top go they have some felt material against the aluminum so it doesn't ground.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wgr73 said:
This has me thinking. Seems as though the OP has a bad PCB (Op, check the back side to make sure there is no trace going following the rear). The OP could do 1 of 2 things to fix his PCB, use a fiberglass pen to cut away at the PCB and jumper the contacts, or just solder around the PCB.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Erusman said:
I hooked up two red clips to wifi pogo's.
I hooked up one black clip to gps.
I ran various tests. Wifi and GPS on. Everything is on par with all my other
tablets. 32mb 5mb wifi. GPS is up and running all birds 5 to 10 seconds.
...
Yep. My GPS didn't even work. Connected wire to pogo pin and had
all 15 birds in view with GPS test app. Took less than 10 sec.
...
Bluetooth? Well, bluetooth still had problems
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
jupppo said:
Well, some bad news. I was assuming a bad connection to the pogo pin was the reason for the bad reception. This is certainly not the cae for my prime. I know also assume it is the back plate.
I cut a 9,5cm (half GPS wavelength) cable an connected it to the pin. Great reception, even better than before, although I am inside and no other GPS gets signal here..
As long as the cable was outside the case it was great, but then I put the cable in the case and the signal decreased.
When I even closed the case. The signal was completly gone until I opened it again.
Looks to me that the aluminium back side shielded the signal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
mystkrh said:
I have a GPS repeater in my hanger at work, and I placed my transformer prime right under the unit with my phone in that spot all gps signals are ~50 in GPS tester. You can see in the pictures one is ok, I personaly think there is an AGC problem in the GPS receiver, and to test it I padded the signal with a anti static bad (we use this method to troubleshot gps antennas on aircraft) and when I did that you can see the 2nd photo of the best signal I think anyone has ever seen on a prime.
...
i just placed a static bag over the unit, I didn't put it in a static bag
AGC is Auto Gain Control its adjust the gain high at low signals and lowers the gain at high signals. If you have a strong signal with to much gain the signal will become unusable. I'm a avionics tech, I deal with radio's, gps rx's and that kinda stuff alot.
The pogo pin connection could be a problem but, but I really doubt it, they are getting a bad wrap in this whole thing. They really are not that bad of a connection as long as they compressed slightly when making contact.
The thing I worry about is the affect of the exposed signal with no shielding on the pogo pin at 1575mhz it doesn't take much to have a problem with reception.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
clackity said:
Automatic Gain Control. It applies gain to the incoming signal to try to achieve a predetermined (or optimal) signal strength. But anytime you apply gain, you increase noise. The trick is to improve the signal more than you increase the noise.
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Click to collapse
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dpwhitty11 said:
Whoever it was who drilled the holes in his Prime, what kind of bit did you use?
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Click to collapse
Erusman said:
Just a normal metal cutting bit. The aluminum is very soft. Be sure you are careful with the shavings when you drill. You want to make sure you use a can of compressed air to get the metal shavings out of the tablet. Bit size was 7/32. You can go smaller if you want. Just depends on what kind of rubber gourment plug you want to use, and size of your wire.
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Click to collapse
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Doktaphex said:
So I've been making different antenna all day, but what I hadn't done was just sit the antenna in the open case whilst testing, I decided to do that. Results here:
...
As you can see, even with the antenna just sitting there in the case the connection is useless, same happens when connected to WiFi antenna, in the case, nothing much, move it out to the side, excellent connection in dB.
My current thought is to somehow stick an antenna where the speaker grill is already. At least that would save busting things up too much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
micaman said:
OK now watching that video (thanks by the way) i have to return to my initial theory that it must be the aluminum case that is causing an electrical interference with the antenna an not just blocking the signal. If the degraded signal was solely caused due to the antenna just sitting in the aluminum backing why did the signal improve whilst it was sitting on the keyboard which is also made of aluminum?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Videos courtesy of Doktaphex.
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Doktaphex said:
My latest idea is running a wire the entire way round the Prime, basically where the screen sits in the case, so far so good. I have a loop of wire attached to the GPS pogo pin. In theory, it could replace that black plastic surround that's about 1 mm thick on the screen.
It was a pain in the ass to install as a quick dirty mod, but doing it properly with tape and such like would make it a breeze. So far it's looking pretty good.
...
All of a sudden though, from having good birds in view I've got nothing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This has been confirmed to not work. I'm not sure about newer models or their claims to better WiFi.
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Erusman said:
Other option you guys might try which i am toying with is adding these Tyco Wifi Antenna. They are used in laptops but extremely thin. Heck i dunno you might not be able to drill any holes and place these powerful boys someplace in tablet and get excellent wifi. I have a few on order already.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details
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green750one said:
What about using an antenna like this ... it's 2mm thick and might fit inside the case. Have no idea what reception would be like but it seems bit more designed than the stock antenna?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.mightygps.com/oem/dielectricantenna.htm
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PersonOfKnownOrigin said:
I wonder if this could be useful
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Click to collapse
http://www.sti-co.com/antenna-produc...ransparent-gps
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Erusman said:
You could probably even cut yourself some copper strips and be fancy with the design and fit them around the entire plastic bezel on front. Then solder a connection to the pogos.
However, its all about if the signal is going to get in there. It may not matter how big of copper strip or Tyco antenna you but in there. The aluminum backplate may block it and you will get same results as factory antenna.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
jchipper said:
i just ordered a PCB Copper FR4 Circuit Board .025" x 12" x 36"
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Click to collapse
http://www.ebay.com/itm/36037716592...:IT&_trksid=p398 4.m1439.l2649#ht_1295wt_1139
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junrider said:
I think with my idea of buy a thin copper sheet that is very filmsy. measure the the size of the contacts on the board, now double it. So if the contacts where:
[||||] you would need a copper strip of [||||||||]
fold the copper strip in half to form a <
Then take the outer end of the copper and put a light solder film, put some rosin flux on the contact, then take the side with the thin film of solder of your copper strip and place it on the contact and press the soldering gun on the strip and thin film of solder should bind the copper strip and contact without the mess of excess solder.
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Click to collapse
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Lock-N-Load said:
Really though, in the end, it seems if someone wanted to get really hardcore, they could dremel a slice out of the back that is tall yet narrow, go to home depot and get some plexiglass, sand it down to obscure the view into the device, and epoxy that in place and place the wire into that as a window. Totally possible IF you wanted to kick it up a few levels now that the hard work is done and shows an antenna wire can hep. Essentially steal Apples' idea but keep it simple and make it home grown.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
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RipplingHurst said:
Now im wondering if we couldjust unplug the camera and use that opening where the wires would end. I could easily sacrifice the camera or the flash for such.
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Click to collapse
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buxtahuda said:
Here is a terrible drawing of my own personal idea for an internally retractable antenna similar to the straw-method that Erusman adopted as his final mod with his Prime/case combo. I'm currently just looking around and gathering my thoughts, but I hope to find a fairly compact, flexible, and lightweight telescopic antenna and place one or two of them just along the MoBo (underneath the bezel of the screen, but attached to backplate) with a hole cut out and insulated so that only the top two or three inches of the antenna will leave the Prime and without making contact to the backplate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really, I don't think this would do well. You'd really need antenna large(thick) enough for the GHz frequencies.
I like the Card printer test card.. Looks like a Fargo DTC515 or 525 or a Magicard test card
Just so people know that card is 30mils thick CR80 card stock
How did u fix the lightbleed?
xxgmon3yxx said:
How did u fix the lightbleed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Getting there, sorry. After disassembled, just reseat the screws surrounding the screen and only tighten them enough to hold. The usual issue is too much/uneven pressure.
*EDIT: And I didn't!!!! Lol, credit given at top. Will edit so no one could possibly miss who to really thank
LOOKS great so far. Also try to add in pics showing close up of pogo pins and the pics showing the different ways they attached/soldered the wires to pins/PCB OG test. Maybe also along with those the screenshots showing how much better the signals increased from doing it. DIFFERENT theories n findings people had the seem very plausible.
Very important, add a disclaimer at the bottom saying this is a do at your own risk. You or others involved with compiling info for this thread assume no responsibility for any possible damages. If you proceed to try this, do with extreme caution and if you don't know what you doing or not confident, best not to try this at home
demandarin said:
LOOKS great so far. Also try to add in pics showing close up of pogo pins and the pics showing the different ways they attached/soldered the wires to pins/PCB OG test. Maybe also along with those the screenshots showing how much better the signals increased from doing it. DIFFERENT theories n findings people had the seem very plausible.
Very important, add a disclaimer at the bottom saying this is a do at your own risk. You or others involved with compiling info for this thread assume no responsibility for any possible damages. If you proceed to try this, do with extreme caution and if you don't know what you doing or not confident, best not to try this at home
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For the reserved Taking my time, but I'm having to go through the entire thread two more times to ensure accuracy, and proper quoting/credit. It will certainly be done before midnight (10 PM now), so keep refreshing and you'll see me changing it lol
Great job..Appreciate it!
buxtahuda said:
For the reserved Taking my time, but I'm having to go through the entire thread two more times to ensure accuracy, and proper quoting/credit. It will certainly be done before midnight (10 PM now), so keep refreshing and you'll see me changing it lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for putting all of this together. I would have but as you see you've done it alot faster than I could on the prime alone with no dock. Once the bulk stuff or initial stuff is done, it'll be easy to update. The other thread could be the research thread n this one the actual guide n findings from research.
demandarin said:
Thanks for putting all of this together. I would have but as you see you've done it alot faster than I could on the prime alone with no dock. Once the bulk stuff or initial stuff is done, it'll be easy to update. The other thread could be the research thread n this one the actual guide n findings from research.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol, it's no issue. I've no life, so my Androids keep me company; gotta do 'em justice
Plus, the easier it is for you all to find and understand the easier I can get help also understanding lol
*EDIT: And two 22" monitors can help
demandarin said:
Thanks for putting all of this together. I would have but as you see you've done it alot faster than I could on the prime alone with no dock. Once the bulk stuff or initial stuff is done, it'll be easy to update. The other thread could be the research thread n this one the actual guide n findings from research.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome job! Thanks buxtahuda!
Now I can concentrate on drinking beer and watching the Super bowl
Erusman said:
Awesome job! Thanks buxtahuda!
Now I can concentrate on drinking beer and watching the Super bowl
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To quote a famous philosopher:
Beer, beer, beer.... bed, bed, bed!
Homer J. Simpson
Okay. Bulk work done, pictures all resized and just waiting for the site to update them.
Please let me know if anything's out of order/missing or if something can be scratched. I'll of course be keeping up with this thread, and will also be monitoring the original.
Good luck everyone, and thank you!
Cool thread, this really combines all of the test data. I should have some more btw pretty soon.
wgr73 said:
Cool thread, this really combines all of the test data. I should have some more btw pretty soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wonderful! Can't wait! I'm tearing mine down this afternoon.
Be sure to keep using Erusman's original thread for your general R&D, we'll use this to post it after and hopefully help spread the load of questions from over there.
Soon as I've got this laptop all put together and a bill ready for it, I'll hop back on to look over what's been being discussed.
Just to add to this, my prime doesn't seem to have any GPS issues.
Indoors (ground floor)
Indoors (First Floor)
Outside
I admire your work and would try this if I had crappy WiFi but mine works great. I don't have GPS but if I ever use my prime for navigation I'll use my BT GPS receiver. I just can't put my $500 tablet under the knife at this point
GOOD JOB! I'll definitely use this if I grow a set of stones to take my Prime apart.
Veeerrryyy tempted to tear this thing apart. Thanks guys for your bravery
TF201 | XDA Premium
This is a pretty "ballsy" move to make... and I approve of this message... and of the methods used here to disassemble our tablets.
Sent from the last remaining Prime; Leader of the Autopads.
Just bumping to keep up top, can't imagine anyone really wanting to go through 50+
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using xda premium
Updated to the latest page of the thread, will soon start putting in links to the products underneath those latter pictures of antenna.
Curious if anyone is using the Palm Touchstone wireless charging mod for the SGS3. I got everything for a Palm Pre, touchstone, cable, etc.. Did the mod which was stupid easy... but the buldge of the back cover is driving me nuts. I have no idea how to make it more flush again. There is ZERO chance of putting an case on here now, for 1 it seems like the charging signal wouldn't be strong enough... and the buldge would absolutely prevent it.
Any help would be appreciated.
BTW: I used super thin 24 gauge wire out of a cable (like a usb cable/printer cable) to go from the palm pre charging pads to the pins of the sgs3.
I used the palm pixi's back for my mid. It is thinner that the pre's so there is less bulge.
Edit: I also used copper foil/tape to make my connections. I don't know if that would reduce bulge or not though.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
I read somewhere the pixi back was thinner but I read that after I ordered the pre back. I didn't have any copper foil tape so I used wire from a usb cable, and if I did use foil tape it seems like I would need something to push down into the phone connectors as they seem a tiny bit recessed.
Don't get me wrong, everything works, and charging works, but the bulge is noticeable and there is no way I could use a case back now. Glad I got the whole body Zagg invisible shield. :thumbup:
How did you address the phone connectors being deep inside? What did you use to make your foil tape touch the leads in the phone? I just kind of pushed the wires in there and used a little rape to prevent shorts.
T-Mobile Samsung Galaxy S3 SGH-T999 Tapatalk 2
On the Sprint model there is no sim card. If you cut a square out of the internal cover to the right of the microSD card you have a nice little space to hide the circuit board that causes the buldge. I just posted a question- where to buy the internal plastic cover? I don't want to risk screwing up my original.. BTW I used copper tape. On the pixie back I soldered the tape to the leads. For the phone connection I cut the tape too long and rolled it up to the spot it needed to be to make contact with the S3 contacts.
I have the touchstone and palm charging back. Is it possible to do this mod without soldiering the GS3?
Roll the tape up...:fingers-crossed: Sometimes I hate myself, I always think of the hardest way to do something.... Of course - why not roll the tape into a little ball. DUH!
I think I could probably get the bulge down a little, but I'm not sure it would make a lot of difference... I guess I could always just buy a pixi back and try again? or just wait for Sept and get the samsung kit.
I had read that the samsung kit will charge when the phone is relatively close by - I read 2 meters, but that doesnt sound right - that would be like 6ft... I would settle for 1 ft. The touchstone has to be RIGHT on it... If I had an otterbox case, I am 99% sure the magnetics wouldn't catch and I doubt think the charging field would work, because I can hold it just above the reach of the magnets and no charge. Touch it to the touchstone and BINGO.
So I was working on my phone, because in my apartment I went from having full signal/4g to having nothing whatsoever. Long story short, it turns out that T-Mobile is working on the tower and will have it resolved in 48hrs.
When working on my phone, I decided to slightly/gently bend the gold connectors on the back of the phone to ensure that they touch the back case firmly. In doing so, I accidentally/dumbly/n00bly snapped off a small portion of the pin. Not the bendy pin itself, but the smaller portion that is underneath it and attached to my phone. Is there any way to repair it? Will it effect my phone in anyway? Does anyone know what it does, exactly?
This is the one that I snapped off. It's the one on the right. Again, it's not the top/springy one that I snapped, but rather the tiny iode that ensures the springy portion makes a solid connection with the phone underneath.
Kobraki17 said:
So I was working on my phone, because in my apartment I went from having full signal/4g to having nothing whatsoever. Long story short, it turns out that T-Mobile is working on the tower and will have it resolved in 48hrs.
When working on my phone, I decided to slightly/gently bend the gold connectors on the back of the phone to ensure that they touch the back case firmly. In doing so, I accidentally/dumbly/n00bly snapped off a small portion of the pin. Not the bendy pin itself, but the smaller portion that is underneath it and attached to my phone. Is there any way to repair it? Will it effect my phone in anyway? Does anyone know what it does, exactly?
This is the one that I snapped off. It's the one on the right. Again, it's not the top/springy one that I snapped, but rather the tiny iode that ensures the springy portion makes a solid connection with the phone underneath.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you might be able to get away with using a pair of tweezers and superglue... but since its on the phone itself and not the battery cover you may have to send it in for repairs
ziggy46 said:
you might be able to get away with using a pair of tweezers and superglue... but since its on the phone itself and not the battery cover you may have to send it in for repairs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was thinking about soldering a small bit under there, to ensure it would make a solid connection. Think that would work? Also, do you have any idea what that actually DOES? Are all of the connections a part of the antenna?
Kobraki17 said:
I was thinking about soldering a small bit under there, to ensure it would make a solid connection. Think that would work? Also, do you have any idea what that actually DOES? Are all of the connections a part of the antenna?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that might work, you will just have to be careful not to burn the main board or make connections between other components.
and those specific pins connect to the antennas in the battery door, so yea pretty much
FUUUU! lol Thanks a lot for the info. *facepalm*
Dropped z2 yday ;/ it was one of my frenchies who jumped on me, phone fall first on screen, than on back glass and finaly landed in dogs water bowl. took it out right away, screen ok, back glass broken and no visible sign of any water entered.
I want to replace the broken glass deck, but to make it so that phone will still be wateproof.. Anyone have any experiance with that? If so, where did you order back glass and did it come with adhesive coating ..?
Thanks for all answers!
102
aawawa said:
Dropped z2 yday ;/ it was one of my frenchies who jumped on me, phone fall first on screen, than on back glass and finaly landed in dogs water bowl. took it out right away, screen ok, back glass broken and no visible sign of any water entered.
I want to replace the broken glass deck, but to make it so that phone will still be wateproof.. Anyone have any experiance with that? If so, where did you order back glass and did it come with adhesive coating ..?
Thanks for all answers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got mine off of eBay. You need the back glass and new adhesive.
Phone won't be as waterproof anymore, but I've dipped my phone in the sink fora few seconds without harm.
http://iphoneno.com/categories/Sony-Mobile-Part/Xperia-Z2-Parts/
mariosraptor said:
http://iphoneno.com/categories/Sony-Mobile-Part/Xperia-Z2-Parts/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does this come with adhesive and would you know how if we can retain nfc? I heard changing the back you lose NFC...
Thanks.
It comes with adhesive. But nfc antenna must be unglued from the old back glass. To do that you have to heat up the glass very well so it won't break or torn off.
Heat up the old glass i mean.
hey guys , did anyone succeeded to buy original back glass , and after that phone is again waterproof ? cos some people told me that doesnt matter what back cover i buy even with adhesive , the phone wont be waterproof , only sony can repair it for waterproof again. is that true ?
No man
There are adhesive on the back of glass dont mention about it
You could either buy the plate AND the adhesive thingy (comes separately). Or go my way (slightly risky).
The stock glass plate keeps breaking so I took the measurements and made an Aluminium plate. Then drilled camera holes into it and painted it. Then came the tricky part. I stuck the plate into place using regular epoxy (waterproof) adhesive. You have to be very careful while doing the last part because of obvious reasons tho.
The problem with the adhesive thingy that you get to buy (And also the one that Sony uses in the device) is that although its water proof, it isn't heat resistant. and as we all know how Sony phones heat, the adhesive comes off.
MindfreakBS said:
You could either buy the plate AND the adhesive thingy (comes separately). Or go my way (slightly risky).
The stock glass plate keeps breaking so I took the measurements and made an Aluminium plate. Then drilled camera holes into it and painted it. Then came the tricky part. I stuck the plate into place using regular epoxy (waterproof) adhesive. You have to be very careful while doing the last part because of obvious reasons tho.
The problem with the adhesive thingy that you get to buy (And also the one that Sony uses in the device) is that although its water proof, it isn't heat resistant. and as we all know how Sony phones heat, the adhesive comes off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is very creative and I sure as hell would like to try my hand at it. How thick was the aluminum?
I bet your phone becomes hot as an iron when gaming haha, which is good for your internals because of better heat dissipation. Any adverse effects on mobile reception? wifi? bluetooth? guess NFC is gone haha
ice_lander said:
hey guys , did anyone succeeded to buy original back glass , and after that phone is again waterproof ? cos some people told me that doesnt matter what back cover i buy even with adhesive , the phone wont be waterproof , only sony can repair it for waterproof again. is that true ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I given my z2 to friend to replace battery and few days ago I left my phone in silk for 10 minutes, because it was dirty and no issue here.
@MindfreakBS
What are NFC and Cell reception like since installing the aluminium back plate?
Any deterioration in signal strength / call quality / WiFi / Bluetooth?
Pixelado said:
This is very creative and I sure as hell would like to try my hand at it. How thick was the aluminum?
I bet your phone becomes hot as an iron when gaming haha, which is good for your internals because of better heat dissipation. Any adverse effects on mobile reception? wifi? bluetooth? guess NFC is gone haha
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aluminium is a millimetre thick. It does get hot, yeah.
Mobile reception is same (Maybe a tad bit lower, idk), wifi bluetooth work fine. NFC still intact. I fixed it onto the plate in position.
@rubiicon59 that should answer your question too
I was planning to post a tutorial. Haven't been able to take out enough time though.
How about a pic...
MindfreakBS said:
Aluminium is a millimetre thick. It does get hot, yeah.
Mobile reception is same (Maybe a tad bit lower, idk), wifi bluetooth work fine. NFC still intact. I fixed it onto the plate in position.
@rubiicon59 that should answer your question too
I was planning to post a tutorial. Haven't been able to take out enough time though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've asked about the pic for a long time:crying::silly:
MindfreakBS said:
Aluminium is a millimetre thick. It does get hot, yeah.
Mobile reception is same (Maybe a tad bit lower, idk), wifi bluetooth work fine. NFC still intact. I fixed it onto the plate in position.
@rubiicon59 that should answer your question too
I was planning to post a tutorial. Haven't been able to take out enough time though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What if I want to use a 2-mm thick acrylic as my black plate? Is it possible? Because I am afraid that it will exceed the metal frame of the phone and it will ended up looking terrible:crying:
I agree, I think 1.0mm would be more suitable.
At 2mm, you might get an M4 Aqua kind of look hahaha
aawawa said:
Dropped z2 yday ;/ it was one of my frenchies who jumped on me, phone fall first on screen, than on back glass and finaly landed in dogs water bowl. took it out right away, screen ok, back glass broken and no visible sign of any water entered.
I want to replace the broken glass deck, but to make it so that phone will still be wateproof.. Anyone have any experiance with that? If so, where did you order back glass and did it come with adhesive coating ..?
Thanks for all answers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe that if the broken glass was the only issue, and you use a original replacement part, or decent adhesive tape to glue them back together, you'll have no problem. I've had the same issue few weeks ago, replaced the screen and the phone didn't experienced any problem when submerged.
Do anyone now where can I get an official or a good quality back glass for my xperia z2, I broke the original one but i don't want to replace with one without any quality.
buy a nice "glue" to fix that..