First of I would like to say thanks to this forum.
I try not to post any problems that have already been answered and this forum was a big help in getting my xda unlocked.
However I had only had my phone in working condition for 2 weeks, enough time to start to like it, when it fell and cracked.
I ordered a new glass screen (no bleeding ink) and had it overnighted. I sucessfully swapped out the broken scree, but in the process I screwed up the phone. So here is whats going on with it, if anyone can help me out it would be awesome.
When taking it apart I accidently broke 2 of the connectors for the ribbon cables on the back of the pcb. Now the phone wont turn on. The screen comes up but its just white and I cant tell if the os is loading.
Sorry for the long winded post
Thanks for the help
Chris
Also if this cant be fixed whats my best option, selling it broken or parting it out? How much could i get?
Re: Some help for a newbie... [borken screen]
beggy said:
When taking it apart I accidently broke 2 of the connectors for the ribbon cables on the back of the pcb. Now the phone wont turn on. The screen comes up but its just white and I cant tell if the os is loading.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I guess it depends on how broken the connectors are, but this definitely doesn't sound good...
If you post a few close-up pictures, I'll tell you if there's any hope for fixing it.
Well..
One of those 3 connectors lead to the screen.
My wild guess would be that it's not porperly connected since it's borken.
In that case, I would have done one of two things:
1. Buy a connector through an electronics component vendor, then ,manually replace the broken one or have a electronics lab do it for me.
2. Solder the wires to the connector's base manually (or in a lab) to over-ride it. (I hope you understand what I mean).
At any case, my guess would be a broken connection somewhere in the connectors (one of the 3). This can probably be fixed that way or another.
BTW - I have a lot of dust between the glass and the screen. How do you remove the glass from the screen (it seems to be attached firmly somehow)??
To take the glass apart from the lcd, there are 4 metal tabs (2 at the top and 2 on the bottom) you can pry a thin flat-head screwdriver between the metal tabs (you will see what I am talking about, when you look closer). It will sound bad but its just the glue coming apart.
I tried to get the connectors but had no luck finding a match.
So I am going to part out the phone.
Ill be posting the ebay auctions for the lcd screen, the new glass piece, the motherboard, the battery/case and whatever misc accesories I have lying around.
Before I put all the parts on ebay, I figured I would give the people on here a crack at it. I will entertain all reasonable offers. Send me a PM.
Here is what I have for sale
Case in good condition w/ battery
Motherboard - in good condition just missing the two plastic pieces where the lcd connects.
Brand new glass touchscreen/digitizer
Lcd Screen
Also for sale the in-wall charger, the sync cradle with an extra 3 stylus (styli?).
Just finished replacing my cracked glass / digitizer, but now my previously working LCD just shows vertical colored lines. I bought one of the glass / digitizer replacements from Ebay, which was a perfect match for the OEM piece. Since I was having trouble finding the thin double sided tape, I used black silicone adhesive to bond the LCD to the digitizer. When I plugged in LCD panel and turned the tablet on, all I get is vertical varying colored lines across the LCD. I've pressed the on /off switch for 10 seconds to reboot the device, but it still does the same thing. I've taken the ribbon cable off and on checking to see if was not properly seated, but it seems to be okay. Any ideas?
The ribbon cable had a 90 degree bend in it after it was removed... can that cause an internal cut in the cable itself? At least to me, it appears that the LCD is working, since the lines are bright in color and even change as you manipulate the digitizer... it just has no picture.
Thanks..
Killer95Stang said:
Just finished replacing my cracked glass / digitizer, but now my previously working LCD just shows vertical colored lines. I bought one of the glass / digitizer replacements from Ebay, which was a perfect match for the OEM piece. Since I was having trouble finding the thin double sided tape, I used black silicone adhesive to bond the LCD to the digitizer. When I plugged in LCD panel and turned the tablet on, all I get is vertical varying colored lines across the LCD. I've pressed the on /off switch for 10 seconds to reboot the device, but it still does the same thing. I've taken the ribbon cable off and on checking to see if was not properly seated, but it seems to be okay. Any ideas?
The ribbon cable had a 90 degree bend in it after it was removed... can that cause an internal cut in the cable itself? At least to me, it appears that the LCD is working, since the lines are bright in color and even change as you manipulate the digitizer... it just has no picture.
Thanks..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
90 degree bends can cause one or more of the individual conductors to become broken. I've had it happen on hard drive cables, and one inside a sprinkler system once.
chamberc said:
90 degree bends can cause one or more of the individual conductors to become broken. I've had it happen on hard drive cables, and one inside a sprinkler system once.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any way to actually test this? Can use a voltmeter type tester to check continuity from one side of each pin to the other? They are hair like in size, so not sure the standard tests are the same.
Thanks..
My DIY experience...
Hi,
How did you perform the screen replacement? I have tried and I have described it below.
It seem like there are a lot of people that has TF201s with broken screens, but very little information about how to DIY screen replacement, so I wanted to post my experience here.
The screen on my TF201 cracked (dropped on the floor - only the screen was damaged, the LCD and digitizer still worked) so I seached around the web to find ways to replace the screen - without luck
I did find instructions on how to open the device and I also found original glass/digitizer replacement parts on eBay originating from China at about $100 so I took the chance and ordererd a new screen. It arrived 2 weeks after and looked good.
With the instructions on how to disassemble the TF201, it was quickly open and the glass/digitizer/LCD is one subassembly connected to the mainboard with two flex cables - one for the LCD and one for the digitizer.
Next step is to power off the system internally. There is a small internal switch in the lower left corner that you should switch to the off position. The LCD and digitizer cables can now be disconnected from the mainboard. The connectors open easily by putting a nail under the white frame of the correctors and pulling the frame up and then pull out the flex cables. You now have the glass/digitizer/LCD separated from the mainboard.
The LCD has a few screws to hold it to the plastic frame - these should be removed at this step. Mine only has two screws mounted although there are room for more (bad assembly quality or a fix for screen bleeding???)
Now comes the hard part and the part where I failed! There is a plastic frame around the edges of the glass that you need to remove and mount on the new glass. This plastic part holds all the taps that keep the tablet together and it is taped to the glass with some VERY sticky tape!
I used a knife to cut between the plastic and the glass with the result that the glass broke in tiny pieces as I went around, but as I saw no other way I kept going... It might have been better to use a heat gun or a hairblower to heat up the glue before trying to remove it, bu I was worried that the LCD might be damaged by the heat.
The plastic frame has to be removed first to have access to the foam tape that is used to tape the LCD to the glass/digitizer. Once the plastic frame was off, I again used the knife to gently cut the foam tape (around 1 mm thick) all around the LCD screen so that this can be removed from the glass.
Here I might have made my second mistake. I was worried that I would cut too deep into the foam and hit the LCD screen, but the foam at the bottom of the screen is a little wider than the rest and as I tried to remove the screen I used too much force and might have damaged the LCD - the end result was that also the LCD was damaged in the process. The damage might also have been caused by me pressing too hard on the screen during the removal of the plastic frame (might actually be more likely as the glass was broken across the screen and the damage I was seing when I turned on the screen was following the same line).
Well, I got the LCD off the broken screen and though I had been successfull even thought it had taken a couple of hours to get there (I could not visually see that the LCD was damaged at this point). Then on to the assembly with the new screen/digitizer! I had some double sided tape that I used to tape the screen to the plastic, but desided to to a quick test before I fully assembled the unit and this turned out to be a good idea!
I mounted the LCD screen with just the screws and connected the flex cables back into the connectors (these can be a little tricky to get it, so just be patient and keep wiggling them in and close the latches). I enabled the power again and pressed the power botton and: DAMM - THE LCD IS BROKE!!!!
After wiglling a little with the LCD cable I was able to get a partial image, but it was evident that I had mishandled the LCD screen during the disassembly and I needed a new screen to gt my tablet working again - now I was glad that I did not glue the LCD to the glass, so that I needed both a new LCD and a new glass/digitizer!
Off to the web to seach for a replacement LCD screen... Hmm, lots of ebay listings for replacement LCDs, but none of them looked like the original I had, but when seaching for the partnumber on the LCD I took out (Hannstar HSD101PWW2 rev. 0-A00) I did find a few priced around $100
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a 5 point screen calibration routine, but this does not seem to be supported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
They did offer to refund the price of the screen if I shipped the screen back to them, but I will most likely damage the screen when trying to remove the plastic frame and it will cost me shipping the part back to China...
Did you test if the touch screen is actually working on your reworked unit (you can use the HDMI output as I did)?
Unless I get the screen issue resolved I most likely will get a TF700 instead of my broken prime - I really loved the prime for the 4 months I had it working...
ThomasKJ said:
Hi,
How did you perform the screen replacement? I have tried and I have described it below.
It seem like there are a lot of people that has TF201s with broken screens, but very little information about how to DIY screen replacement, so I wanted to post my experience here.
The screen on my TF201 cracked (dropped on the floor - only the screen was damaged, the LCD and digitizer still worked) so I seached around the web to find ways to replace the screen - without luck
I did find instructions on how to open the device and I also found original glass/digitizer replacement parts on eBay originating from China at about $100 so I took the chance and ordererd a new screen. It arrived 2 weeks after and looked good.
With the instructions on how to disassemble the TF201, it was quickly open and the glass/digitizer/LCD is one subassembly connected to the mainboard with two flex cables - one for the LCD and one for the digitizer.
Next step is to power off the system internally. There is a small internal switch in the lower left corner that you should switch to the off position. The LCD and digitizer cables can now be disconnected from the mainboard. The connectors open easily by putting a nail under the white frame of the correctors and pulling the frame up and then pull out the flex cables. You now have the glass/digitizer/LCD separated from the mainboard.
The LCD has a few screws to hold it to the plastic frame - these should be removed at this step. Mine only has two screws mounted although there are room for more (bad assembly quality or a fix for screen bleeding???)
Now comes the hard part and the part where I failed! There is a plastic frame around the edges of the glass that you need to remove and mount on the new glass. This plastic part holds all the taps that keep the tablet together and it is taped to the glass with some VERY sticky tape!
I used a knife to cut between the plastic and the glass with the result that the glass broke in tiny pieces as I went around, but as I saw no other way I kept going... It might have been better to use a heat gun or a hairblower to heat up the glue before trying to remove it, bu I was worried that the LCD might be damaged by the heat.
The plastic frame has to be removed first to have access to the foam tape that is used to tape the LCD to the glass/digitizer. Once the plastic frame was off, I again used the knife to gently cut the foam tape (around 1 mm thick) all around the LCD screen so that this can be removed from the glass.
Here I might have made my second mistake. I was worried that I would cut too deep into the foam and hit the LCD screen, but the foam at the bottom of the screen is a little wider than the rest and as I tried to remove the screen I used too much force and might have damaged the LCD - the end result was that also the LCD was damaged in the process. The damage might also have been caused by me pressing too hard on the screen during the removal of the plastic frame (might actually be more likely as the glass was broken across the screen and the damage I was seing when I turned on the screen was following the same line).
Well, I got the LCD off the broken screen and though I had been successfull even thought it had taken a couple of hours to get there (I could not visually see that the LCD was damaged at this point). Then on to the assembly with the new screen/digitizer! I had some double sided tape that I used to tape the screen to the plastic, but desided to to a quick test before I fully assembled the unit and this turned out to be a good idea!
I mounted the LCD screen with just the screws and connected the flex cables back into the connectors (these can be a little tricky to get it, so just be patient and keep wiggling them in and close the latches). I enabled the power again and pressed the power botton and: DAMM - THE LCD IS BROKE!!!!
After wiglling a little with the LCD cable I was able to get a partial image, but it was evident that I had mishandled the LCD screen during the disassembly and I needed a new screen to gt my tablet working again - now I was glad that I did not glue the LCD to the glass, so that I needed both a new LCD and a new glass/digitizer!
Off to the web to seach for a replacement LCD screen... Hmm, lots of ebay listings for replacement LCDs, but none of them looked like the original I had, but when seaching for the partnumber on the LCD I took out (Hannstar HSD101PWW2 rev. 0-A00) I did find a few priced around $100
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a 5 point screen calibration routine, but this does not seem to be supported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
They did offer to refund the price of the screen if I shipped the screen back to them, but I will most likely damage the screen when trying to remove the plastic frame and it will cost me shipping the part back to China...
Did you test if the touch screen is actually working on your reworked unit (you can use the HDMI output as I did)?
Unless I get the screen issue resolved I most likely will get a TF700 instead of my broken prime - I really loved the prime for the 4 months I had it working...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was in the same boat as you... after I took apart the unit, I still had a functioning screen... but when I went further to separate the LCD from the digitizer, I must have damaged the LCD. Right now all I get are vertical colored lines. I need to get an HDMI cable so I can check the function of the digitizer.. It seems to work, because I do get color changes when its manipulated, but no image. Damm.. problem is... how much good money do I spend on a damaged device.. At this point, I wish I just sent it in to get fixed by Asus..
Killer95Stang said:
I was in the same boat as you... after I took apart the unit, I still had a functioning screen... but when I went further to separate the LCD from the digitizer, I must have damaged the LCD. Right now all I get are vertical colored lines. I need to get an HDMI cable so I can check the function of the digitizer.. It seems to work, because I do get color changes when its manipulated, but no image. Damm.. problem is... how much good money do I spend on a damaged device.. At this point, I wish I just sent it in to get fixed by Asus..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure that your LCD is broken. It might just be the connection to the motherboard that is bad as chamberc said. I had the same problem with my broken screen. I had to wiggle the cable to get a partial correct picture on my screen. I tried to clean the pads without getting a 100% stable connection so I might have broken the flex cable as well, but normally these are relatively good at flexing without braking (they are made to do that) so I tend to think that it is the connection in the connector.
Until I figure out what to do with the touch screen I have not spend more time on root casuing it, but I suggest that you try to take the flex out of the connector and clean it with either a erasor or a cloth with alcohol and then gently put it back into the connector. Also ensure that you put it in the right way and close the hatch properly.
Good luck.
On the touch screen issue, my touch screen is working fine it JUST has a reverted x-axis, so it would still cause your colors to change, so I'm very curious if yours is working. Could you also share the touch screen part number (printed on the flex cable) and TF201 hardware version (TF201-1B or TF201-1I or???) This should be written on the label of the box and on the warrenty card.
The background for me asking about this, is that asusparts.eu has different spare parts depending on if is for TF201-1B or TF201-1I so there might be two versions of the hardware out there. Mine is a TF201-1B.
Hey, I got a t-mobile S5 and the screen is black. Everything else works fine, I can unlock the phone which indicates a working digitizer but the LCD remains black. I tried to heat of the main board to reflow the solder but it didn't work. I have a LCD digitizer combo on the way but before I tear out the original LCD, i was wondering if anyone in Orange County, CA has a test ribbon cable I could use before I start the replacement. Thank you.
Hi!
I have broken the display on my Z2.
I have ordered a new one online and changed it. Soon I realized it's not working properly (ghost touches and unresponsive screen). After looking for a solution, I found out that this may be a grounding problem.
Since i saw, that the new display didn't come with adhesive covers for the chips on the flex cable, i have fitted them from the original display, but the problem still persists.
So how do I properly ground the display?
Does the bottom metal part of the display flex cable, have to touch the metal part of the frame? I suspect that sometimes it doesnt (new display didn't have the grey adhesive, the original had - but I can't remove it). Do I have to fix it with some kind of conducting adhesive?.
What about the top metal part of the display flex cable? Must it touch (ground) somwhere or it's not neccessary?.
Do I have to be carefull that some parts of the flex cable doesnt touch some other part of the phone?
BTW, I know the display isn't faulty because if I remove the back cover, sometimes i get perfect screen rensponse (maybe i ground it with my hand).
Thanks in advance.
Hey guys. I had to replace the digitizer on my wife's galaxy tab 4 10.1 thanks to the baby grabbing it and tossing it. When I replaced the screen, I was putting the ribbon cable back in and when I went to close the locking clip, it broke in two. before this happened, I tested the screen and the soft touch keys weren't working, which is the reason for the broken tab(I had to remove the screen to try and clean the contacts.) So, Now I am left with a digitizer that doesn't work and I'm not sure if it's due to this broken clip on the ribbon cable or if the screen was screwed out of the box. Does this clip allow for contact or just to secure the digitizers ribbon cable?