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Original Post:
Just discovered that my prime is almost an index finger off in accuracy around the inner 1" edge of the screen. Causes me to keep missing the search button in the browser, it registers me clicking the bookmark button instead.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What the problem is:
The touch screen's calibration is off while the device is plugged in and charging using the provided stock ASUS charger. (No other chargers have been tested so far)
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Click to collapse
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"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
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"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
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}
Test Protocol By N11:
Navigate to Settings/About Tablet/System Firmware Update
Try to tap "Check Update" while charging and while unplugged
Report any differences. Also report your version information.
Test Protocol 2:
Download "Touch Test" or "Multi-Touch Benchmark"
Report any differences while charging and while unplugged. Also report your version information.
Edit 1: I have discovered that this only occurs when the device is charging... Weird. Can anybody else try this? Download "Touch Test" and play around with in while charging and unplugged.
While Charging/Plugged In:
While Unplugged:
Edit 2: Seems like other users are experiencing the same behavior! Please reply if you are experiencing problems too!
Edit 3: So I purchased a stylus from my local Walmart to get a more accurate, less subjective "touch" The results are shockingly clear.
While Unplugged:
While Charging:
While Charging:
Same thing is happening with mine, but I cant hit the refresh button on the tabs in the browser (instead it keeps clicking the close button). I even tried my targus stylus and it still doesn't work.
I had a very similar problem with mine only it went much further than just what you guys are experiencing. In addition to what you stated, mine wouldn't even register anything at random intervals and in random spots on the touch screen. Here's a little video of just some of it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oywWUxPMeX8
I feel for you guys. I had to send my back. Currently awaiting a replacement.
Mines not working at all now
Sent from my HTC Vision using Tapatalk
Mine seems to have improved greatly after unplugging the charger...
I drained the battery. Didn't help
Sent from my HTC Vision using Tapatalk
I want to know why the accuracy tanks when charging... Seems a little weird if you ask me...
vbman213 said:
I want to know why the accuracy tanks when charging... Seems a little weird if you ask me...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
has something to do with the voltage of the charger my epic 4g touch did the same thing with the wall adapter it came with started using a different charger from my old phone and problem went away...... I would be curious if all stock wall chargers for the prime do it or just some?
This is interesting. I had a Dell laptop with a defective charger and the touchpad would throw the mouse all over the place while it was charging.
Evo_Shift said:
This is interesting. I had a Dell laptop with a defective charger and the touchpad would throw the mouse all over the place while it was charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you think I just have a defective charger?
I'm not having that issue here. Its working fine for me.
vbman213 said:
Do you think I just have a defective charger?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do like I said same thing happened with my epic 4g touch phone.
jdbaker82 said:
I do like I said same thing happened with my epic 4g touch phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was going to try and pick up a replacement OEM TF101/201 charger from my local OfficeDepot (they actually carry these!) and try it, but they don't do opened box refunds...
Guess this is going back to best buy...
I think it has something to do with the backplate tingling/improper grounding,
throwing some static at the touchscreen grid making it think its being touched elsewhere.
See howfar off the touch dot is at various places on your screen.
You should be able to figure out a trajectory to where it is making "contact".
Sokonomi said:
I think it has something to do with the backplate tingling/improper grounding,
throwing some static at the touchscreen grid making it think its being touched elsewhere.
See howfar off the touch dot is at various places on your screen.
You should be able to figure out a trajectory to where it is making "contact".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly, try turning around your charger (so turn it by 180°)
I had something similar happen on my DInc when I plugged it into the wall and car inverter using my brothers Motorola cable and charger. The phone will just go wonky with the touchscreen. As soon as I unplug it everything would be copacetic. Try another charger and or cable.
So i wonder if its more likely that my prime isnt the problem and my charger or home wiring is wonky
I noticed this yesterday where I could not close browser tabs. Eventually I got the tab to close, and thought this was just some dust on the screen or something.
I have not had any issues before and use it a lot while charging (its technically my wife's so she gets to run the battery down and I get it after since I sit close to a outlet), and I was not having issues at all until the last firmware update (not that it is necessarily related).
I will try and run some more tests this evening and see if I can produce. I would think if this was a hardware issue I would have run into it sooner.
Did anyone have this issue prior to any of the latest firmware updates?
UmbraeSoulsbane said:
I noticed this yesterday where I could not close browser tabs. Eventually I got the tab to close, and thought this was just some dust on the screen or something.
I have not had any issues before and use it a lot while charging (its technically my wife's so she gets to run the battery down and I get it after since I sit close to a outlet), and I was not having issues at all until the last firmware update (not that it is necessarily related).
I will try and run some more tests this evening and see if I can produce. I would think if this was a hardware issue I would have run into it sooner.
Did anyone have this issue prior to any of the latest firmware updates?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm honestly not sure. Prior to my device arriving yesterday, I found out about the newly released root method for the latest OTA so I upgraded as soon as I turned on the device. I do not have a benchmark for comparison.
I will be trying to invert my charger and I will also be trying a different location across town to see if maybe my electrical wiring in my home is causing voltage noise/grounding issues.
I have a solution:
Code:
if (Device.isCharging) { Screen.Touch.setOffset(-5,-10) }
done...
vbman213 said:
I have a solution:
Code:
if (Device.isCharging) { Screen.Touch.setOffset(-5,-10) }
done...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Or maybe that's in there and was meant to be commented out...
Hello guys,
I have a LG G5 H850 since the release in the UK with Vodafone.
Last week, got an update On The Air to the v10c, but then my power button suddenly stopped working (or it is a big coincidence)
Symptoms:
- When the phone is off (battery removal), can't turn it on only with the power button. Only way is to plug it to the USB cable and it automatically restarts the phone (so weird.....)
- When the phone is on
--> lock screen activated, I can't unlock it by pressing the power button.
--> lock screen not activated, I can't lock the screen manually neither by pressing the button.
Also, the fingerprint sensor works perfectly fine....
I tried the following to fix it without any results:
- Hard reset (Factory reset) through the settings
- Safe mode to check if an app could be the reason...
- Wanted to try to flash to the factory v9h rom but could not find it unfortunately.
I tried to contact LG customer service but they answered me 3 days later with a pre-made answer for the G4
Anyone experiencing the same issue ?
Is it hardware or could it be software ?
Any other things I can try ?
Cheers
Lyn.
I doubt that this is a Software relatet Bug, otherwise it would turn on using the button once the battery was removed.
I guess you can't reach the download mode either, otherwise I would recommend you to flash the V10a kdz and Cross your fingers.
Swapping the phone in a local Store isn't possible? If so, try it.. You won't get a repaired phone in near future as the repair facilitys don't have the needed parts yet and you'll be stuck with no phone for a while.
Thank you for your (quick) answer Savoury.
Yes I have some time to loose tonight, I will give it a try to this older version if I manage to find the kdz.
Keep you updated !
Cheers
Power button / fingerprint scanner just stopped working on my LG G5 tonight.
Don't know if it's related or not, but it seemed like I had just wiped the phone clean with a Wet-Nap just prior to the button failure.
Weird, because I've been using Wet-Naps to frequently clean all of my phones for years,
and never had an issue before. I attached a pic of a Wet-Nap for reference below.
Also, when I go in to SETTINGS and search FINGERPRINT, nothing comes up in the SETTINGS for adding or removing fingerprints.
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Strange development:
As of this morning:
-the "fingerprint" option has returned to my settings
-the fingerprint scanner will unlock and turn on the phone again after going through the setup process again
- the power button will NOT turn OFF the phone's screen anymore
Any explanations ????
Here's my answer I just posted on another thread. Hope this answers your question. I had the same problem. Nothing I can do with it now and it was out of warranty. Still works fine. Just a nuisance.
"Hi there just wanted to mention my experience from today. I bought a g5 with the power button not working but the fingerprint scanner did. I ordered a part from eBay and replaced it fine.
Then when I put it back together, it wouldn't turn on still. I took it apart about 3 times and tried to redo it until someone online mentioned to clean the gold pins with rubbing alcohol... Well I was getting ready to do that when I looked at the pins on the motherboard that makes contact with the power button part and.... A gold pin was missing. A drop or something must've made it fall out. I barely touched the one next to it and that one fell out. It had a hook that went to the underside of the metal thing and it popped out of my tweezers and I was never able to find the piece after that....
What a dumb design that they made. Those pins should not be there without being attached to the metal that's there"
I bought a refurb G5 and power button would only turn off the screen if pressed 4 or 5 times in a row. But I was able to fix it by simply taking a Q-tip with Isopropyl rubbing alcohol and pressing the button down while giving it a rough cleaning. What happens is that fingerprint oils and other gunk get stuck inside the button but after you clean it out with alcohol it was working good as new.
May take 3 cleanings total to restore it back to 100% performance. But certainly try that before swapping out any parts. This is a known issue with the power button on G5 and a cleaning with qtip and alcohol will fix the problem 90% of the time
I fixed this buy buying a new button. I installed it with a phone repair kit, a blow dryer, and a new button.
You can find them on amazon. You'll find a few videos online on how to do it. It's an easy repair.
The hardest parts are getting the phone apart (careful about breaking the thin material at the edge) and heating the glue to remove the existing plate covering the button. Consider buying a new plate for this button too, as you may damage the old one taking it off. You might need a high strength glue to reinstall the plate.
It works like new now, even though my phone GPS is toast regardless lol.
Hello folks! I wanted to explain the solution I came up with to the problem of the very lengthy startups on my android car radio.
Your typical car radio is wired like you see below:
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https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNRk8tR3VobmxOdUk/view?usp=sharing
With a OEM radio, your startup is just a few seconds for a modern Linux- or android-based car radio. Even some aftermarket radios like the mainline AVH Pioneer series are up and running in seconds.
Not so much with our favorite android aftermarket car radios. Boot up times are something on the order of 20 to 30 seconds. This isn’t too bad in and of itself, but if you’re the sort of individual that likes to “get up and go” this starts getting very annoying after a while. If you’re refueling your car then start up the motor when finished, that cuts the power to the radio and you witness another 30 seconds before everything is up and running, and that’s before the stereo does its media scan and the audio apps get loaded into the RAM. So you’re almost a minute on your drive before the tunes start.
A straightforward solution is what you see below:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNcVFYZG1mamhVN00/view?usp=sharing
I’ve wired the ignition trigger line directly onto the positive. This keeps the radio on at all times. This eliminates the annoying boot up delay, however we run the risk of draining the car battery this way. I have seen discussions on this forum where standby power consumption for aftermarket android head units runs somewhere on the order of 25 mA, all the way up to 300 mA or more. I have not tested this out although it would make for an interesting study. The point is this is a potential problem if you plan to leave your vehicle parked somewhere for an extended period of time. You don’t want your car in the long term parking lot at the airport to have a dead battery when you arrive back late at night from your trip, because the android radio was running off your car battery for the days or weeks you were gone.
If you wish to eliminate the lengthy android boot up time and also save your car battery, allow me to propose the following solution:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNV2pUUmNiN3RLMDg/view?usp=sharing
In this example, I have purchased a battery isolator and a very small auxiliary battery just the power the car radio. This involves the addition of some extra electronics in your trunk, and some extra 4-conductor wiring from this new battery and battery isolator up to the car radio. If you know what you are doing you can do this all in one afternoon, which was my experience.
You’ll need a few things in order to get this project rolling:
A 12V 18-amp-hour battery that is typically used in an uninterruptible power supply. $35:
https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP12180-Rechargeable-Battery-Bolts/dp/B00A82A3RK/
Battery isolator:
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-IGD140HP-140-Battery-Isolator/dp/B001DKRF2M/
or http://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=iso_pwr
(There’s plenty of different choices here. Look around and see what you like. I chose the IsoPwr unit because it is solid-state diode-based and has no mechanical relay inside it.)
Four-conductor wire:
https://www.amazon.com/16AWG-4-Conductor-Speaker-White-Mediabridge/dp/B0193RRUBM/
Butt splices, and splicing tool.
Fish tape, for running the wire underneath the carpet in the car.
Toolset for removing the seats, center console, removing the radio, etc.
A stiff drink for when the trolls show up. (Just kidding! )
I also purchased a pair of trailer wire extension cables, which are four conductor wires with plugs.
https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-48145-Wire-Extension-Length/dp/B0002RNSNM/
This works well for keeping the wiring in place in case I need to remove the battery or the radio.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNbGswdW04V010akU/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNTDhfY3hLT2Rlc3M/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNVUc5TXJSMzN2STQ/view?usp=sharing
As you can see in the pictures, I fabricated a wooden stand to retain everything, and I had a plastic battery box laying around from an earlier car stereo installation.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNNElSUDUtOGhDNXc/view?usp=sharing
The procedure is simple, you place the battery and isolator in the trunk and run the wire up to the car radio. You cut the power leads on your aftermarket car wire radio harness, and splicing your four conductor wire. This wire runs all the way and hooks up to your isolator in the trunk, which in turn is connected to the auxiliary battery.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNVE9peGZGZF91MXM/view?usp=sharing
Also, an important point: LABEL YOUR WIRES!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_X6EY6VJIXNaVhPVWg4OHlGMGs/view?usp=sharing
You really don't want to mis-wire anything and screw up your car.
An optional switch on the positive line running to the radio prevents discharge of the auxiliary battery, in case you’re parked for an exceptionally long amount of time.
If it seems like a lot of running around to get around a technical limitation on the part of the radio manufacturers, it really is. This was an experimental project on my part to expand my technical prowess in to give me the android car audio experience I desired minus the tire some waiting for the radio to boot up every time I got in the vehicle.
I’ve been running this for a few days now and the result is excellent. I can restart the car after filling up at the gas station, and now there is little delay other than the OS scanning the USB and MicroSD drives. And the radio works almost from the start first thing in the morning, before I even pull out of the driveway.
If you know what you are doing it can’t be beat.
Any questions?
Nice, I thought about this a while back. Quick question, when you turn your vehicle off, the radio stays on? You have to manually turn it off right?
ffwd4490 said:
Nice, I thought about this a while back. Quick question, when you turn your vehicle off, the radio stays on? You have to manually turn it off right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is correct. You turn your radio off manually, with or without the key in the ignition.
The standby current is the question. Some folks that do CanBus monitoring through their radio report large current draw when the radio is in standby mode, but those that don't do canbus seem to see standby current on the order of 80 mA down to about 25mA. It's an ongoing debate.
The separate battery eliminates the worry of draining your main car battery dry.
Make sense?
Yes totally, I've wanted to do this, just not sure if I want always on and manual turn on/off, or the wait... So as usual I do nothing lol. Great write up though! Cheers!!
That seems like a lot of parts and expense for very little gain.
Wouldn't it be easier to just put a switch or a timer on the ign line into the radio?
EDIT:
Like this;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Circuit...-delay-relay-Turn-on-off-switch-/131776109221
So for $3, it will hold the IGN line powered when IGN source is terminated, adjustable for anything between 0.1 seconds and 1 hour. Now when you go and fill up your gas tank, the radio stays on, but if you leave the car parked overnight, it will still do a full bootup the next morning.
EDIT2: This $5 unit is better;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-LED...itch-Relay-ON-OFF-Module-12-24V-/262503313875
1) it will accept a higher voltage range, safe for car 14.5 volt.
2) it accepts a separate power and trigger input, meaning that it is a DIGITAL timer rather than analog timer that is potentially sensitive to temperature.
I didn't think of this for the short term pit stop boot up delay. We already have that solved with the software mod that allows you to keep the Hu powered for 2 hours. For me this would be for the overnight/work shut down.
The problem with the software mod is that only works after the radio has booted.
In my push to start car, I insert the card and the radio starts to boot but when I press the button the power is cut to the radio and it reboots again since the mod wasn't loaded yet.
So one of these mods could solve my problem.
Great,
I have been looking for a long time after this solution.
I want to install this but thinking about the next problem. My power-off function does not work. When pushing the power button, i have a black screen, the leds off the buttons are still active and after pressing the power button the system reboots. Not a perfect sleep or standby modus. If i don't fix this first the extra battery won't be a solution.
I can fix this by adjusting the software?
RK3066 800 x 400 with MALAYSK ROM (12 June)
I think it's absolutely absurd that these head units simply do not have a built in standby power supply keeping them in a sleep state rather than shutting down entirely.
Nine years ago with my atom-based desktop PC installed in the dash, using a dc-dc switching power supply, that desktop computer based infotainment system was able to sleep for weeks on battery power, always instantly resumed to the centrafuse software interface.
doitright said:
That seems like a lot of parts and expense for very little gain.
Wouldn't it be easier to just put a switch or a timer on the ign line into the radio?
EDIT:
Like this;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Circuit...-delay-relay-Turn-on-off-switch-/131776109221
So for $3, it will hold the IGN line powered when IGN source is terminated, adjustable for anything between 0.1 seconds and 1 hour. Now when you go and fill up your gas tank, the radio stays on, but if you leave the car parked overnight, it will still do a full bootup the next morning.
EDIT2: This $5 unit is better;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-LED...itch-Relay-ON-OFF-Module-12-24V-/262503313875
1) it will accept a higher voltage range, safe for car 14.5 volt.
2) it accepts a separate power and trigger input, meaning that it is a DIGITAL timer rather than analog timer that is potentially sensitive to temperature.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If i were to do something like the second unit that you posted, how long would you think would be the most amount of time to allow the radio to stay on safely (with the screen off) before it negatively affects the car's battery (either the battery dying, or doing longterm damage to the battery). Thanks!
In fact probably radio should go down after 3 days in stand by. Then battery will still more than fine and 3 days is a long time to no impact slow starting.
I think it's absolutely absurd that these head units simply do not have a built in standby power supply keeping them in a sleep state rather than shutting down entirely.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Amen to that, Brother. I’ve seen extremely fast startups with the AVH series from Pioneer, on the order of 2-3 seconds, but those lack the versatility of these android units and the more recent ones tend to be comparatively expensive.
The “big-label” android units like the NEX series are reportedly buggy, expensive and not terribly friendly towards you running anything else other than a handful of their approved apps. They are not truly universal in their approach, so we are stuck working around the limitations of the current crop of android stereos until better, faster technology shows up on the doorstep soon.
Hopefully "soon" really does mean soon.
Below I'll list a few questions and answers about this modification project, as asked by another member:
=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*-=-*--=
What Rom do you have installed? And what kind of radio do you have?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The radio I have is a Pumpkin Auto KD-C0248. It uses the RK3188 quad core CPU, and it has 800 x 480 resolution on a 7” touchscreen, and it is ultimately manufactured by “Klyde”. You might find here: https://www.amazon.com/Pumpkin-Universal-Navigation-Steering-Mirror-link/dp/B015PZVRXS/
It works okay, I don’t have a lot of complaints about it, except that I would’ve preferred a volume knob rather than the push buttons for volume adjustment. Strangely enough the volume buttons are on the right hand side of the unit, even though I own a left-hand drive vehicle. This means I have to reach across the screen to push buttons for volume up or volume down. Since I have this wired into the volume controls on the steering wheel this isn’t too big of a deal, but if I did not have the steering wheel controls it would become a real pain.
This model comes with a DVD player, and in retrospect, now having the option of loading music from the microSD card or a USB drive, I realize I no longer need the DVD. It’s somewhat superfluous at this juncture in the technology’s development.
Knowing what I now know, I would instead recommend something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Pumpkin-Universal-Muti-touch-Navigation-Bluetooth/dp/B0151KNXJ8/ or maybe this: http://xtrons.com/td695ab-6-95-inch...ayer-with-screen-mirroring-function-obd2.html
In other words avoid radios that don’t have a volume knob. It lacks ergonomics to be driving down the road and having to look over to adjust the volume, and in my opinion it is also somewhat dangerous.
I use the Malysk ROM, the latest version, and I must say it is a night and day difference between the stock ROM and this. It’s a hair slower in the loading (if coming up from a cold boot) but the added bells and whistles more than make it worth it.
This ROM comes with built-in ad blocking as a system setting, five different home screen launchers I can choose from, and a handful of aftermarket music players built-in by default, including JetAudio and PowerAmp (demo).
Note that I am using the android 4.4.4 ROM here. I could download the 5.1.1 android lollipop ROM for this radio, but android 5 is slower than android 4. There is more lines of code involved. See here for further information: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUZjOGIV7zg
Additionally, this RK3188 processor is about one third slower than a galaxy S4 CPU (snapdragon 600 CPU). For what we are doing with a radio, android 4 is just fine. If this were smart phone, I’d want the latest operating system instead.
Please see attached pictures: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=68082412#post68082412
Can you switch your radio in standby or off?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not yet installed a hard switch, so this is on at all times. When I push the power button on the radio, it goes into a standby mode, fed by the auxiliary battery when the car is off. Boot up is just a few seconds. Because my battery isolator unit works a little bit too well, and because I purchased a small, cheap readily available UPS battery, I have to recharge the secondary battery every few days. I already own a battery charger, but the small size of the battery means it requires somewhat frequent maintenance, and this is a hassle. If I had a larger battery, or a regular car battery in the auxiliary battery box, this would be happening nearly as much.
I also think that my amplifier consume a lot of battery when connecting directly from the main battery. So i want to connect this after the ignition key.
I thought you've had installed a rechargeble battery? Does it recharge when driving the car?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have indeed install the rechargeable battery, is a typical led-acid battery, fully sealed, and these are what is frequently used in UPS’s. It does recharge it a little bit when driving, although not as much as I would like.
How many time do you have to recharge the extra battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I figure I have to recharge the battery about once or twice a week, depending on how frequently I am driving, and how far. Again, I have a very small capacity battery in here 18 AHr only, this is about 1/6th the capacity of a regular car battery. So I have to recharge it more than I would like.
I had previously done what I will suggest you when I was running in amplifier in my car, namely I had purchased a much larger battery, what is referred to as a deep cycle marine battery. This means it is specifically used in small personal fishing boats the power an electric propeller motor that won’t disturb the fish.
Here is one example: https://www.amazon.com/100Ah-SOLAR-WIND-CYCLE-BATTERY/dp/B00S1RT58C/
This this battery is meant to go a long time between recharges, and to discharge quite a bit between charges. With something like this in the trunk of my old car, and running a 1200-watt amplifier and (2x) 15” subwoofers in a sealed box, I could go one to two weeks between recharges. I would simply park the car in the garage, hook the battery charger up to the auxiliary battery terminals, let it charge all night while I sleep, then put everything back as it should be and hit the road in the morning. I did this for a few years. It worked fine.
Again, it’s a lot of running around to work around what is, in my opinion, a latent fault with these car stereos, but if you’re serious about your music, and you like the insurance of having an extra battery for jump starts in your trunk, then this is the way to go.
Power Consumption Figures
Addendum 9/3/16:
I wanted to relate that the initial battery size was really not adequate for my needs in this affair. The 18 amp-hour battery would discharge in a matter of days, to the point where it was no longer doing its intended job. I would have to recharge the battery about two times per week. This is not acceptable.
So today I went out and purchased a marine deep-cycle battery with about 500 CCA. I’m not quite clear on the amp-hour rating. This was about $80, plus tax.
More importantly, I went on to eBay and for around $10 I purchased a very small, cheap power meter with a simple wiring set up. I wired this into the output circuit from the battery isolator to the radio, so I could see what the actual power draw is for this set up.
My results are as follows:
At start-up we see about 3 Watts being consumed, 0.25 amperes of current, plus or minus a little bit.
When the radio is fully booted up, the screen is on, and music is playing, we see about 10 W of power consumption.
When the radio is in a standby mode, after you’ve hit the power button and the screen is off and the radio is about as “turned off” as it’s going to get, we see around 1 W of power consumption.
Mind you, this is a RockChip 3188 CPU, and the power usage will be similar across all brands that use this CPU.
As I’ve emphasized earlier, the advantage of this set up with the (now larger) battery is you can run a large amplifier and subwoofers off of it, without potentially taxing your electrical system.
Otherwise if you’re going to run a powerful car radio, you have to buy a larger battery and a larger alternator to go with it. This may not be everybody’s cup of tea.
:good:
Hi - been away from the forums for a three months now - been v busy with work, but was following this thread and really like your attempt here.
It's got be thinking on a few things - especially your last post with actual measurement of power usage.
It's raised a couple of interesting points for me.
The first is effect on your standard car battery if left on all the time. My car battery is a 72Ah, 12V, so please correct me if I'm wrong - but does this make it 864Wh. Therefore, at 1W draw, the car battery would support it for 36 days? Now I imagine that a car battery would need to have a reasonable level of juice in it to start a car so it's not like you could leave it for (e.g.) 35 days and still expect it to start but if you were leaving the device on overnight/out of working hours (i.e. not weeks on end), on this basis it shouldn't really kill your battery.
Further thoughts I had was
1) could there be some kind of software mod to make the power off function on the radio even more power efficient and so it really be a minimal drain on apps. I think this is what QuickBoot does on Cyanogen, but possibly it could be done by throttling the CPU, airplane mode and greenifying the apps. If the power usage was halved etc, then it really could be inconsequential relative to the standard car battery.
2) Maybe a rechargeable 'powerbank' could be used instead of the battery you have. Along the lines of say this 12V 23000mAh one which I think could sustain the head unit for almost 300 hours if 0.08A are drawn or 12V 10000mAh one which I think could do 125 hours if 0.08A are drawn - if the discharge side of this could switch on when the car ignition is switched off, but it plugged into a ciggy lighter (which are only on when the car is on in my car), then it would charge when the car is on and discharge when the car is off. Not sure how feasible/tricky that is.. ,also found this which seems to be able to do the switching required...
Ok, so the newer head units (i.e. with Intel) are much more able to deal with the momentary "off" situation that is caused by starting the engine -- essentially, they have a WORKING shutdown delay, that is effective right from initial power blip.
They also start up a lot faster (around 10-15 seconds FULL BOOT).
I recall an interesting feature that was introduced by Parrot into Asteroid Smart; it had an advanced startup. In the case of the Parrot, it was based on a motion sensor in the unit -- when it sensed you opening the door, it would begin its power up.
Now while these chinese units don't have motion sensors, we could actually do something else that would give it an advanced startup -- hook the ignition switch line into the INSIDE LIGHTS of the car -- you open the door, the lights come on, the radio starts booting, you sit down, stick the key in, start the engine, and guess what? Its booted!
This modification will require a couple of DIODES. Run the inside lights circuit through a diode to the IGN input to the car radio. Run also the car IGN source through a diode to the IGN input of the car radio. Without the diodes, the ignition would turn on the lights, and the lights would power on all kinds of things you don't want powered on.
For an older unit, the same kind of thing would work, IF you combine it with the capacitor shutdown delay hack -- software hacks won't work since the unit won't be booted far enough for the software hack to actually run. And while it might not be enough time to fully boot an older unit, it will at least shave a bunch of time off of it.
Parrot Asteroid --> Android™ 2.3 platform :/
and you shouldn't power your HU from the lights circuit not mentioning that when they are off, the HU would be off too.....
It could be done by using a relay and lights circuit as a trigger, but not as a power source itself.
doitright said:
Ok, so the newer head units (i.e. with Intel) are much more able to deal with the momentary "off" situation that is caused by starting the engine -- essentially, they have a WORKING shutdown delay, that is effective right from initial power blip.
They also start up a lot faster (around 10-15 seconds FULL BOOT).
I recall an interesting feature that was introduced by Parrot into Asteroid Smart; it had an advanced startup. In the case of the Parrot, it was based on a motion sensor in the unit -- when it sensed you opening the door, it would begin its power up.
Now while these chinese units don't have motion sensors, we could actually do something else that would give it an advanced startup -- hook the ignition switch line into the INSIDE LIGHTS of the car -- you open the door, the lights come on, the radio starts booting, you sit down, stick the key in, start the engine, and guess what? Its booted!
This modification will require a couple of DIODES. Run the inside lights circuit through a diode to the IGN input to the car radio. Run also the car IGN source through a diode to the IGN input of the car radio. Without the diodes, the ignition would turn on the lights, and the lights would power on all kinds of things you don't want powered on.
For an older unit, the same kind of thing would work, IF you combine it with the capacitor shutdown delay hack -- software hacks won't work since the unit won't be booted far enough for the software hack to actually run. And while it might not be enough time to fully boot an older unit, it will at least shave a bunch of time off of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
oscyp said:
Parrot Asteroid --> Android™ 2.3 platform :/
and you shouldn't power your HU from the lights circuit not mentioning that when they are off, the HU would be off too.....
It could be done by using a relay and lights circuit as a trigger, but not as a power source itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I like this line of thinking... so could you set it so if the lights are on OR the ign line is on, then the run that output as the new IGN feed to the radio?
And I might be getting confused here, but I thought the HU takes it power directly from the Fuse board, but the ignition feed effectively triggers it on - or is it actually drawing quite a bit of current from the ignition feed?
Or, sticking with doitright suggestion, how about a motion sensor like http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/motion-detector-kit-n27fl located low so it picks up the driver footwell, somehow reset it though.
Or an electrical contact switch on the driver door that can sense it opening when the ignition is off?
Might be some kind of alternate switch idea which would work?
Mr Bigglesworth said:
Or, sticking with doitright suggestion, how about a motion sensor like http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/motion-detector-kit-n27fl located low so it picks up the driver footwell, somehow reset it though.
Or an electrical contact switch on the driver door that can sense it opening when the ignition is off?
Might be some kind of alternate switch idea which would work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any trigger + relay circuit would be good. No big deal.
Mr Bigglesworth said:
I like this line of thinking... so could you set it so if the lights are on OR the ign line is on, then the run that output as the new IGN feed to the radio?
And I might be getting confused here, but I thought the HU takes it power directly from the Fuse board, but the ignition feed effectively triggers it on - or is it actually drawing quite a bit of current from the ignition feed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is NOT drawing ANY (measurable) current from the IGN line. At most, it is just enough current to activate a BJT. If China decided to spend the extra 0.001 cents, then they used an FET, and the current is zero. All of its current is through the radio fuse, which remains powered up full time, as long as the car's battery is installed and has charge.
Yes, that is what I'm talking about. Just OR it with the inside lights and make sure there is no backflow.
---------- Post added at 02:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:51 PM ----------
Mr Bigglesworth said:
Or, sticking with doitright suggestion, how about a motion sensor like http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/motion-detector-kit-n27fl located low so it picks up the driver footwell, somehow reset it though.
Or an electrical contact switch on the driver door that can sense it opening when the ignition is off?
Might be some kind of alternate switch idea which would work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is what I'm talking about. What do you think causes the inside lights to turn on when you open the door?!!!!
Ladies and gentleman,
For too long i have had this moisture detection problem. I have read "how to fix it" threads forever and to be honest. They don't work. I've disabled the moisture detect setting, soft reset my phone, cleaned my usb c port thousanda of times and nothing seems to work. However! I have the cure for good (until lg send us an update that eliminates this problem for us)
To fix this problem for good here it is! (well until you restart your phone you'll have to re do this step)
Go into your settings > apps and notifications > apps info > click the 3 dots top right corner > click show system > scroll all way to lg system server > click on it and then click force stop!
I really do hope this works for a lot if not all of you because it has rescued me from hell!
You are welcome
Thankyou. Can you tell me is your phone recognized by computer? Cause mine's just charging
Interesting approach in light of what seems to be an increasingly common problem. Of course, it brings up some questions.
Most importantly, we don't know for sure what is causing the warning to be activated. It is there for a purpose and if you really have some conductivity between pins that shouldn't be there (whether due to debris or a faulty port), it might not be a good idea to bypass it. On the other hand, if this is a software bug (e.g a threshhold mis-set or incorrect sensor reading code) then a software fix is all you can do.
And we don't know what else "LG System Server" does. Maybe it is not such a good idea to disable it, or maybe you'll be overall happier anyway!
At any rate, if it is really beneficial to run this way, maybe you can disable it with LG package disabler and then you don't have to stop it every time you boot your phone. For me, if this starts happening so frequently, I'll really consider making use of the 2nd year promise.
Update 1: The problem was getting worse. I couldn't even charge while powered off. I tried force stopping this to see what happened. The notification went away until I plugged in the charger to see if it would charge (it didn't). I thought maybe LG System Server had started again, but when I went to force stop it again, the option was grayed out.
Update 2. I would like to save myself the hassle of the 2-year promise if it's really not needed, so I tried one more thing. I had previously tried wiping in the port with alcohol, which didn't help at all, but just now I tried electrical contact cleaner (CRC brand "2-26" part number 02004) that says it's plastic-safe. I put some on a paper towel, folded it around my pointy nylon zip tie end I use for pulling out the lint, and wiped the contacts as well as I could without getting the stuff all over everything.
It is too early to declare complete victory yet but it is fast charging now.
And... that lasted for about 15 minutes.
Akash i have no problems plugging my phone into the computer, i am unsure where your issue lies. Further, jdock my phone is still working fine since ive force stopped my system server. There has been no glitches since and my phone charges accordingly! Goodluck to you!
So, yesterday I cleaned the usb port out with contact cleaner. This initially seemed to fix my problem: when I powered on my phone I did not get the moisture warning so I plugged in the charger and it fast charged, but only for about 15 minutes before giving me the warning again. It would toggle between charging and not charging so I unplugged the charger and set the phone aside.
After a couple hours I tried charging again and it fully fast-charged. So I thought maybe there was really something to this. I re-did the cleaning process again last night, just to make sure I am doing the best job I can, and did not attempt to charge overnight so that the solvent could continue to do its job. So far this morning it is still fine and it fully quick-charged again.
A permanent fix? I hope so. It's still way too early to be sure. Cleaning the port seemed to me the obvious answer whenever I heard about someone else having this problem, and it was my first thought when I started having it. But we all thought we had cleaned out the port and it didn't help. What if we're just not doing a good enough job?
For anyone with this problem, it can't hurt to try some CRC 2-26. Its description is "Plastic safe lubricant, penetrant and corrosion inhibitor that helps prevent electrical malfunctions caused by water penetration, humidity, condensation or corrosion". Maybe use the CRC QD contact cleaner first because the 2-26 is technically not really a cleaner. They are inexpensive.I just picked the 2-26 because they had it at Home Depot - about $3 for the 5 oz can that will last me forever (the QD is about the same). If I have to do this every few months, no big deal.
Just don't try to spray it directly into the port. You will make a huge oily mess. Figure out some kind of applicator. I ended up stuffing saturated paper towel on each side of the port and rubbing it around with a thin toothpick.
In my case putting my phone into a box with rice over night helped! Although fast charging doesn't work now!
In my case, the moisture warning was triggered by having my phone in my shirt pocket on a very hot, humid and sweaty day. Tried everything and nothing worked until I tried taking the sim/SD tray out overnight while leaving the phone on a warm surface.
The reasoning being that moisture may have been sucked in the phone due to heating/cooling the air inside pulling a vacuum.
Opening the sim/SD tray let the moisture evaporate. It's been a couple of days, and the moisture warning has not come back.
I had the same problem and i tried everything stoping lg syst..restart ...hair dryer even tho i my phone never touched water.what i found is dust and fiber tissue from my pocket was inside the connector , i used a tooth pick to clean it a little bit of alcohol just to make sure its really clean , and thats it. I hope i helped. Sorry for the english.
I had this problem playing PUBG with sweaty hands.
I solved it by playing without a phone case and letting the phone dry. I am guessing my case was trapping the moisture?
The option that its working for me now its leaving my phone on bed with a hairdryer next to it for about 25 minutes. The phone should be off, then i wait until it cooldown because it was really hot. After it cooled i try again pluging in the cable and start charging. I hope that the warning dont show again
Kevin you will destroy your battery doing that.
I had reoccurring moisture detected, even when cable was not plugged in. I send it back under warranty. Attached is a screenshot of the diagnose from LG's service center. It also lists the replaced components (you can google the part numbers).
Language on the attachment is a mixture of German and Dutch.
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students said:
Kevin you will destroy your battery doing that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know the message pop up again. I didnt do that again.
The method that really worked for me was using a toothpick and flattened it with a pair of pliers then carefully cleaned the usb type-c charge port. So far so good, I only do that once and now I have got a week charging the phone normally without that warning, it really works for me, you guys definitely should try this.
Thank you for your idea. Sure would like to see lg admit to the problem and provide a solution.i have the lg g7. Thanks again
1joe6 said:
ladies and gentleman,
for too long i have had this moisture detection problem. I have read "how to fix it" threads forever and to be honest. They don't work. I've disabled the moisture detect setting, soft reset my phone, cleaned my usb c port thousanda of times and nothing seems to work. However! I have the cure for good (until lg send us an update that eliminates this problem for us)
to fix this problem for good here it is! (well until you restart your phone you'll have to re do this step)
go into your settings > apps and notifications > apps info > click the 3 dots top right corner > click show system > scroll all way to lg system server > click on it and then click force stop!
I really do hope this works for a lot if not all of you because it has rescued me from hell!
You are welcome
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this issue but the fix does not worked for me.
The message appeared randomly while charging one night. It was nowhere near water for several months and I work in an office.
What I've tried:
- Drying with a hairdryer (not even a temporary fix)
- Force stopping LG system and LG server processes. I even disabled them with package disabler!
- Disabled the moisture sensor in secret menu. Warning still shows up! Even if I try to turn of the phone and charge it.
- Cleaned the USB C socket with a hairpin and cloth
- Cleaned under running water, swapped with alcohol and dried again (getting desperate)
It does however charge if I plug unplug it in like 5 times. Really annoying!
It does this regardless of charging cable, I tried with 5 cables at home and work.
I read somewhere that the pins were causing a short, but the pins are inside the cable right?
What else can I try?
My Solution
Having same issue for 3 days, have been try 3 different cable and 2 charger doesnt sholve the issue.
At first im trying to clean the port with a needle, and the moisture notification dissapear. But after that the fast charging didnt work, and when i try to charge while the phone turn off the moisture notification pop out.
Next day im trying other methods. I dont have access to isoprophyl instead im using hand sanitizer with 70% alcohol. Use a toothbrush with hand sanitizer to clean the port for 3 minutes, then let it dry. Now everything works perfectly, no notification and the fast charging work. Atleast for now. I'll give an update if something wrong
I still dont understand what cause this moisture issue, but i hope that can help you.
I think I may know a fix
In the stock dialer type in *#546368#*XXX#
Where XXX is the number of the model where you can find in Settings - system - about phone - common - hardware info "Model number" eg. Mine is LG-M700DSK. So, 700 fills in XXX. So mine would be *#546368#*700#.
Don't call, it will bring a hidden menu when input last digit. In hidden menu press svc menu, press moisture detection, turn Disable moisture detection to ON. It should give you a caution dialog, just accept it and it will bring a toast that says "sucess". This should disable moisture detection and will not notify about it.
Zethexx said:
I think I may know a fix
In the stock dialer type in *#546368#*XXX#
Where XXX is the number of the model where you can find in Settings - system - about phone - common - hardware info "Model number" eg. Mine is LG-M700DSK. So, 700 fills in XXX. So mine would be *#546368#*700#.
Don't call, it will bring a hidden menu when input last digit. In hidden menu press svc menu, press moisture detection, turn Disable moisture detection to ON. It should give you a caution dialog, just accept it and it will bring a toast that says "sucess". This should disable moisture detection and will not notify about it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the tip, but I tried before. In my case, turning it on or off is not a solution. They didnt work both way
After all the **** I did, I found my problem and solution.
It was because of my charging cable that had bent pins, yet oddly enough the moisture detected error persisted with other cables.
Thru away that cable, then reset the phone cache and soft reboot (volume down + power)
Hope this helps.
Doesn't work
I don't have the option to force stop.
Do you think a wireless charger would work?
I just bought the 32 gig model to use as an android auto headunit as most good decks are out of stock and figure why not do something fun. I'd prefer not to have it receive power all the time so what is the limitation for idle time with stock settings? I actually did this once before with a nexus 7 running a custom rom and got the standby time to I want to say a few weeks. Goal is to have it go into this state when power is removed and then when power is reapplied (car turns on) it snaps right back into android auto and is ready to go.
Anyone else use this tablet for this purpose?
Hey there, I have the exact same use case as you. I also used to have a nexus 7 as my head unit and swapped for the A7 Lite within the last few months. Now I'm not sure how savvy or comfortable you are with some of this stuff, but I'll type out what I did here. Sorry if this is long but its a lot of info. Feel free to ask me any questions.
Root/AppsFirst off I rooted the tablet using this same method for the A7 10.5. This is a pretty intensive root method compared to most so I wouldn't advise if you don't feel comfortable. You will also trip KNOX so keep that in mind.
A quick note: Tasker may be able to run all of the commands I use without root so rooting may not be necessary. Greenify is definitely more robust with root but also may be able to run fine without it!
Once rooted, I installed Tasker to handle all the automation, and Greenify to handle blocking background usage. The cool thing about Samsung is they give you the ability natively to block most apps from performing background tasks so battery life should be pretty damn good from the start. Greenify with root just adds an extra layer of killing those pesky tasks that keep your tablet from deep sleep.
TaskerFor tasker, I have 2 main profiles used to turn this into a proper head unit. Hopefully you have some experience In Tasker so this next part isnt gibberish. I'll write them down here in a readable format but let me know if you want me to clarify anything.
- If any power is connected: Turn on the screen > Set display timeout to 23 hours > Turn on Immersive Mode
As an exit task when power is disconnected: Turn off Immersive mode > set timeout to 30 seconds
- If there is no power: From 8:30pm-5:00am > turn off tablet
When power is supplied, the tablets screen will turn on, set a super long timeout, then enable Immersive mode to hide the top and bottom bars like your watching a movie. You touch anywhere on the screen and they will pop out for use. When power is disconnected, it will revert back to normal.
The second task is set from 8:30pm-5am. If the tablet does not get supplied power between those times, it will shut the tablet off. This works for me because I never really drive between those times but you could adjust to your lifestyle and probably not impact battery much.
The only annoyance is that every morning you will have to turn the tablet on via the power button. There used to be a few methods of turning a tablet on when power is supplied and that is something I used on the nexus 7 but that functionality is currently lacking on the A7 lite. There is one potential way to achieve this, but it involves replacing the batter icon file used when the tablet is off and plugged in, with a script telling the tablet to boot up. Unfortunately, with the changed made to partitioning and the lack of TWRP for this device, I haven't been able to find a method of doing so.
ChargingThe most important part of all of this is making sure you have a good charger/cable that will fastcharge. With all of this done, I have never seen my battery drop below 98%. When it does drop sub 100% it charges back up in a matter of minutes once driving again.
PicsAs far as the pics below, I 3d printed a slightly angled holder with a slot for a 90 degree charging cable and also a super strong magnet behind the left side. I put a magnet plate on the tablet and is basically does not move with put into place. Looks pretty clean also which is a bonus.
Hope this info helps out and ill update if I find an auto-boot method.
View attachment 5489609
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So I didn't end up going the root option just in case something happens to it. I was able to use automate and setup the routines fine with one exception. Killing the headunit reloaded app sometimes doesn't work but I typically catch it so it's not terrible. But yeah basically mine does check for power then depending on power state changes wifi, screen timeout, power saving mode etc. And yeah battery life is actually pretty great on average with standby time.
I used a pocket router since I couldn't make wifi direct work. I typically leave the router on so I can connect immediately but it is switched for really cold nights so it doesn't kill my battery. And on that subject turns out this tablet hates the cold lol so I have to pull that out as well now. Kind of a pain but whatever.
Here's pics of what I did.
https://www.reddit.com/r/AndroidAuto/comments/qrzlz1
I also chose to use a separate EQ I had lying around. Big benefit with the separate volume knob and then setting filters since my old unit was I believe responsible for that.
On your tablet mount. Is that the plastic that's all scuffed up? If that's ABS then a quick way to bring back the shine is paper towels with acetone on it. Just wipe it gently in the same direction and it will pop.
Nice build!
On your tablet mount. Is that the plastic that's all scuffed up? If that's ABS then a quick way to bring back the shine is paper towels with acetone on it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's actually PLA. I had just replaced my PEI sheet with a one of those ender 3 magnetic sheets due to some first layer problems. It stuck to the new sheet like glue and left this crazy scuffed up looking surface. Adjusted my z offset and its fine now but figured it wasn't a big deal since the tablet would cover that anyway.
I'm actually in the process of doing some more tweaks to the tablet. Gaining root access to the partitions in a custom recovery would make life super easy but there are some problems doing this in Android 11 on a samsung. I plan on removing the "your device is unlocked" warning and replacing with a subaru symbol for when the device boots, and eventually finding a way to auto boot the tablet when power is applied. I will updated in this post if i make any progress.
I'm super stoked someone else has been using this tablet and a 3d printer to turn this into a HU!
tagcart said:
Nice build!
It's actually PLA. I had just replaced my PEI sheet with a one of those ender 3 magnetic sheets due to some first layer problems. It stuck to the new sheet like glue and left this crazy scuffed up looking surface. Adjusted my z offset and its fine now but figured it wasn't a big deal since the tablet would cover that anyway.
I'm actually in the process of doing some more tweaks to the tablet. Gaining root access to the partitions in a custom recovery would make life super easy but there are some problems doing this in Android 11 on a samsung. I plan on removing the "your device is unlocked" warning and replacing with a subaru symbol for when the device boots, and eventually finding a way to auto boot the tablet when power is applied. I will updated in this post if i make any progress.
I'm super stoked someone else has been using this tablet and a 3d printer to turn this into a HU!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you are actually turning off the tablet every time? I've found that even without root I can get it to hold great battery life for days and theoretically up to weeks of standby time. I mean if you drive it at least once/twice per week then I might consider keeping it on. Then you don't have to wait.
Yeah I love my printer. So much fun to make different things with it. And also one of the most frustrating tools I own lol. Dialing it in and making repairs/upgrades over time has been.... fun lol.
So you are actually turning off the tablet every time?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah currently I am. I know the tablets have a great standby and deep sleep and I could probably make it at-least a week without the need to shut it down but I have it set this way just to not have to worry about it. Boot time is only about 20 seconds or so, and if i can figure out how to autoboot with power, it would be perfectly set up.