I have an idea to eliminate the screen door issue in theory - Google Daydream VR

So...you ever see those glass screen overlays of glass that's supposed to protect you're screen from cracking ? As someone who works a lot with Adobe Photoshop it occurred to me that maybe its possible to create a custom "blending overlay filter" that would blend the pixels. It may cause a slight blur but if laser etching was used we could get creative with designs [FYI I have no laser but am going to try other ways]. Just wanted thoughts before I dive too deep into this idea pond.

Related

serious hardware hack: capacitive and\or OLED screen

Does anyone know if there are any capacitive or oled screens that meet the design specs of the mogul's screen? my goal would be to make battery life longer with a more efficient screen but also to (hopefully) make the screen more responsive. Now here comes the crazy part (because this was not right?) I need a screen (and i include the whole back light plate in this) that is at least 0.2mm thinner than the original screen as I would put a flexible solar panel behind the screen to recuperate wasted light to trickle charge my battery (already working on a case mod that would do the same with ambient light).
Thanks!
lol....it's the only thing i can say after reading that post
lol I know that the capacitive screen is next to impossible due to drivers and such... but I am serious about the solar panel behind my screen. I read about the idea years ago and I have never seen it done... so I will do it myself!
Doing something like this is about as realistic as the concept of adding more RAM ... its not economically feasible. The amount of time/effort/cost you would incur would be far in excess of simply buying a better/newer phone.
Now if you're simply trying to do it for the "fun" part of messing around with a gizmo, without caring about the energy and cost spent, who knows.
Only thing about the solar panel behind the lcd is that most lcd have a mirrored plastic backing. You have to remove this from the lcd for sun light to get to the solar panel and in doing so would make your screen very dark. So not feasible.
I wanted to reuse the light that seeps in the back, but if a miror is used to intensify brightness then you are right, this would be useless... I do not know why I had not thought of that... I have dismantled a few lcd screens in the past, I had just never thought of the use of the reflective surface... ok well I guess thats the end of this crazy attempt.
If anyone has any ideas of hardware hack, let me know!
Hardware hacks attempted\contemplated to date:
-change lcd to a better\more efficient one : abandoned
-change backplate for a solar panel : ongoing
-add RFID mastecard chip : failed but looking for other solutions (chip keeps being wrecked when I try to remove it from the plastic using conventional methods such as acetone)
Mod Edit:
Comment removed
thanks for the productive comment.

[Review] DC Mugen Privacy screen protector

I just wanted to let you know NOT to buy the new Touch HD privacy screen protectors.
They seem very good "on paper", however in reality it's a major disappointment. The privacy screen protector should reduce the viewing angle of your screen, making sure that people sitting next to you can't see the screen. This feature does in fact work up to a certain point, but the problem is that this screen protector reduces display quality so badly I consider it unusable.
Basically, the entire screen get's a very harsh rainbow color effect and some strange wavy lines that make your screen look like a 1995. CRT screen.
So, in short - avoid it.
I had a mirror screen protector turn up with a case I bought.
Applied it fine, then got the green and pink lines when looking through it, it actually became more clear the larger the angle I looked at it from!
The protector scratched really easily too, tried changing backlight brightness by dragging and I got a nice scratch. I wasn't pushing hard.
Nice idea, poor implementation.
I was thinking about getting something like that. How about some pictures? lol.
If it looks alright, I might swing for it from some other manufacturer because my friend has one on his iPhone and it's perfect.
I threw the protector away 5 minutes after trying it out. It's THAT bad.
As far as the iPhone goes, it's possible that it's not the same manufacturer. Also, it would seem that extremely high pixel density of Touch HD's screen could be linked to the way display get's messed up with rainbow effect.

fix scratch

does anyone know of a way to fix a small scratch on the screen of the htc thunderbolt?
I think that your only choice will be to replace the screen, if it bothers you enough.
Maybe use a screen guard in the first place?
Take attention away from it with a bigger scratch.
yeah as the guy's were saying above, you'd either have to replace the screen or put decent screen protector on it to minimize the screen' appearance.
if it was the body of the phone, then that's a different story...
I have a small one on my phone and I noticed that the darker the screen is while it is turned on the easier it is to see. If you turn the bightness up to middle or more you can't see it while on the phone or internet. Just try not to look at it while the phone is off, I tend to keep trying to rub it off and just make it worse....Why didnt I use ghost armor...oh wait I know why cause the Thunderbolt has Gorilla Glass.....I am not buying stock in that strach proof technology.
Gorilla Glass has turned out to be the biggest bull**** the tech industry has seen since antenna fate's flawless design
Sent from my ADR6400L using XDA App

LED flash?

Quick question: is there a way to manage the brightness of Prime's LED flash? Many times it feels much too bright that I'd prefer to use the screen and the front facing cam lol
I don't know of any software that will help you, however you can also just go the old-school method of stacking layers of scotch tape over the flash LED in order to soften it and diffuse some of the brightness.
Just cut small pieces of tape and add them one at a time, taking a test pic between each layer until you get the "setting" you want.
If you use a hole-puncher you can make small discs that would be nearly undetectable when on the device.
If the tape isn't providing enough diffusion you could graduate up to a sheets of white paper, or thin plastic to get the job done.
Instead of using the front camera you can always turn off the flash. Obviously not an ideal solution for your problem but might be helpful for times when the flash is really just completely too bright.
Yeah... it's just the flash has a tendency to ruin great pics, but you can't take the pics at that moment without it.
Example: 3 year old plays in the fireplace when he knows not to. Mom yells at him and he is bursting in tears with black spots covering his face. Completely adorable. Prime in hand, take a shot, and you can't even see the spots because it's that bright.
People feel like I'm visually torching them when I take shots. I have to resort to ninja photographer practices.
But I'm gonna have to try some of the homebrew suggestions. Thx much
Just do a Google search for DIY Flash Diffuser and you will find dozens of ways of making a decent diffuser. Most of them are for people with DSLRs but you can probably adapt some of the techniques for use on the back of a tablet.

Photos of Nexus 10 internal (regarding light bleed)

Here are some photos of Nexus 10 with backcover removed, you can see the screen is fused inside a frame along with digitiser and gorilla glass, the screws you see is for holding the battery and have no effect on the extent of light bleed.
awesome pictures!
Hm.. Have you tried to turn on the tablet with open cover just to see of the light bleed is still there ?
So I wonder...does it just all snap together during the manufacturing process? If the only screws are for the battery then what is holding the screen assembly to the frame? I hope its not the frame itself causing all the problems...that could take Samsung while to fix if at all :/
davidmclaren said:
Hm.. Have you tried to turn on the tablet with open cover just to see of the light bleed is still there ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
still there
atg284 said:
So I wonder...does it just all snap together during the manufacturing process? If the only screws are for the battery then what is holding the screen assembly to the frame? I hope its not the frame itself causing all the problems...that could take Samsung while to fix if at all :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i guess they are glued together
great photos
have you tried to press at some points to see if the lightbleed changes?
after some speculation i think the backlight on the N10s is set to high
i know that my old Samsung TV looked terrible when using max backlight.
as i dont have any N10 yet (picking it up on friday) im not sure if the brightness slider changes the backlight or the brightness(black level)?
my teory is that the backlight is set at max all the time and you only change the brightness.
thats plain WRONG!
thats why colors looks washed out when increasing the brightness
what you want is also a slider for the backlight
the brightness(black level) should ALLWAYS be the same
if you want a brighter display you should only change the backlight as the backlight doesnt affect colors/black level or gamma.
backlight only increase the white level.
you dont want to change your gamma right?
so hackers and kernel experts
find a way to change the backlight and most of the problems should be gone
i think
also you need to replace or add a slider with backlight setting instead of the brightness slider
I
263629749 said:
i guess they are glued together
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suspect a thin strip of double sided foam tape. Glue aren't typically used on screens as they create fumes which can haze the screen. Atleast not when we install touchscreens for ATM machines. Double sided tapes are easier to apply also. Same process as screen protectors where you have 3 layers with the center being the actual film. In this case center is the double sided tape. Peel one side, put it on the screen then peel off the other side to expose the other sticky side then lay the screen down on the glass. When its not on perfectly is when I suspect light bleed happens.
The huge problem is trying to remove it once its on. You can use heat to try to separate them. With ATM screens they're thicker so somewhat easier to pull them apart as you heat them but with newer phones or tablets they're so thin that if you do this they'll easily crack.
IMO if the light bleed is bugging you just exchange it rather than risk cracking the screen. Then you'll end up completely voiding your warranty exchange
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
Here's a complete tear down. There's no mention of any sketchiness in the way it's put together or components used.
Today we received and promptly disassembled the Google Nexus 10. In usual fashion we’ll release the take apart video next week, but wanted to go ahead and post the preliminary take apart steps and photos. The model we’ve taken apart is the 16GB Wi-FI model. Model # GT-P8110.
One thing that struck us about this disassembly was the complete ease of taking this tablet apart. Whereas Apple seems to be making it more and more difficult to repair devices by combining parts and using as much glue as possible, Google seems to be taking the complete opposite approach. The end result is a device that is extremely repairable. Go Google!
Another interesting note is how many of the components in the device are manufactured by Samsung. It appears that the battery, processor, and flash memory are all made by Samsung. Is this Google’s way of capitalizing on the drift between Apple and Samsung?
That’s it. The Nexus 10 display and digitizer are fused together, so that is where the take apart ends.
http://www.powerbookmedic.com/wordpress/2012/11/16/google-nexus-10-take-apart-first-look​
that cable that says "GT-P8110" is very interesting. Might help with Samsung support reps in trying to identify what the device is
http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/GT-P8110HAEXAR
Edit: Hmm, just looked at my N10 box and it has the number as well; not sure how I missed that before.
pg_ice said:
great photos
have you tried to press at some points to see if the lightbleed changes?
after some speculation i think the backlight on the N10s is set to high
i know that my old Samsung TV looked terrible when using max backlight.
as i dont have any N10 yet (picking it up on friday) im not sure if the brightness slider changes the backlight or the brightness(black level)?
my teory is that the backlight is set at max all the time and you only change the brightness.
thats plain WRONG!
thats why colors looks washed out when increasing the brightness
what you want is also a slider for the backlight
the brightness(black level) should ALLWAYS be the same
if you want a brighter display you should only change the backlight as the backlight doesnt affect colors/black level or gamma.
backlight only increase the white level.
you dont want to change your gamma right?
so hackers and kernel experts
find a way to change the backlight and most of the problems should be gone
i think
also you need to replace or add a slider with backlight setting instead of the brightness slider
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its usually the back light led whose brightness is changed thats y u save battery life when u reduce brightness, what ur talking about is the contrast and thats fixed on the tablet, brightness being led light intensity and contrast being each pixel allowing amount of light through it
ok time to get this tablet perfect
i have some slight lightbleed at the bottom right corner as many has.
if i press at the back of the screen at the right corner i can clearly see that the lightbleed gets worse.
so the conclusion is that is has something to do with uneven pressure at the screen when you can affect it with pressure from the back.
i report back how it went and if i found some solution
A little bit off topic here, in regards to thermal throttling, do you think it would be possible to fit a small blower some where up top where the cpu/gpu is located?
Something like this (16mmx16mmx4.5mm):
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dkse...ewproducts=0&ptm=0&fid=0&quantity=0&PV46=5197
It would need to be hooked up to 5V, some where like the USB or HDMI port connections on the inside or on the board.
It looks like there is a small hole underneath the camera in the lid that could act as an exhaust, a very restricted one, and the usb/hdmi/3.5mm ports may help intake and exhaust too.

Categories

Resources