Related
http://www.shop2us.com/car_mount/d2_fm_kit.jpg
Hi All,
I have just purchased and tested this product. It cost just £22 from Ebay. Quite a bargain really. The build quality is quite poor. However, the D2 does fit quite nicely and you don't need to fiddle with it too much to get the mini USB connected. One strange thing is the side flanges. They do overlap the green and red phone buttons slightly, so you could find yourself accidentally calling someone when inserting the D2 into the cradle.
Once in, it is an excellent product. The sound quality through the car radio is superb. Even driving through London (where the airways are filled with legal and illegal radio stations) there is no interference with this transmitter. I have tried a few of these type of FM transmitters and can happily say this is easily the best so far. The volume on the D2 needs to be turned down to about 13 or 20% on the HTC, otherwise you will get some distortion when playing loud music.
Re-tuning is a breeze with the back-lit LCD screen, if the frequency you have it on has some interference.
One problem is making or receiving a call. When a call comes in, you can hear the ringing through the car speakers. However, this device disables the D2 microphone and does not have one built in itself. The only work around for this is to have a bluetooth headset. Therefore, once a call comes in, the bluetooth headset will then provide the sound and microphone and so you can speak/hear as normal. The car speakers will be disabled once you accept the call through the bluetooth headset. Obviously the headset will need to be connected first. Personally, I use a small programme called bluepower. This turns on bluetooth on my D2 when it is being charged and then turns it off (to save battery) when it is not being charged. Therefore, as soon as I put the D2 into the cradle, it links with my already paired bluetooth headset
So, I can now sit in my car with my D2 charging, playing music through my car radio and make/receive calls using my bluetooth headset without any problems....
All sounds great doesn't it?
However, there is one small problem.
If I choose to listen to a different radio station, I will not be able to hear my D2 ring or hear when an email/text comes in, or to the voice guidance on my iGO8 (not that I use it).... You may consider this a safety feature because you don't want to have this distraction whilst driving do you? Obviously you can still see these events in the usual way, if your screen is turned on. This is not such a huge problem I don't think, but some might.
Perhaps it will be easy to be able to somehow link up a working microphone with this system and have a rather decent hands free system, but I don't know how to. I have seen other threads which have also described this problem with other such systems, but never a solution except the bluetooth headset one. Maybe someone can suggest a registry tweak for this or a Mortscript programme???
Anyway, to conclude, I am very happy with this purchase, especially at the price.
Hope this helps someone
will the Pure fit in a TD2 cradle?
Will the Pure fit in a TD2 cradle? The bottom ends appear to be differently shaped. Is it close enough that the two can be interchanged for a cradle like mitsi posted?
I want a nice cradle with a built in usb plug so I dont have to figit. The proclip one is too darn expensive. Whereas the custom fitted car cradles for the TD2 are plentiful...
Mic For the FM Transmitter ALMOST !!!
Well like you i bought one of these fine products I did come across a couple of issues (and work arounds).
1. At certain output frequency's the GPS did not work ??, noticed that when the power to the FM Tx was removed the GPS signal returned. as I tried different channels the interference varied so worth looking out for.
2. Again at different output channels I would pickup the mobile trying to make a connection to the network (approx every 10min), again changed the channel the effect varied from bad to zero.
Microphone, I took my unit apart and the pcb has the position for a MIC marked on the pcb but no mic fitted. I took out a mic from the supplied handsfree kit supplied with the phone this fitted and off I went to try but no luck.
On further investigation the mic needed to be wired pack to the usb plug BUT the pins for the plug are enclosed in the glue used to hold the plug in position and there were no leads off the plug to wire too !!!!!!!!!!!!
But like u the unit is still worth the cash
I know that headphone works as an antenna and has applications to online radio, but has some method or application that runs the FM radio without the headphones (without use of the Internet, without using the headphones)?
No problem that the gain of the radio become poor, that is where I'm from the FM signal is very strong, so do not need the gain that antenna offers.
Can't help you with an app...
But you could try the 'next best thing': plugging in a 3.5 mm unwired plug, or a splitter with nothing plugged into it.
I just did, started the radio with "Via speaker" activated, and I actually got decent reception of some stations!
When I put the phone down, things got a bit noisy in most cases, so I was the antenna.
And connecting USB made it better again
waves fulateg
looking for that to,
my old nokia xpress music did that very well, you press 1 button on you have the radio with the speaker...still use it every day
I did see a while ago a 3.5 mm jack plug based aerial on eBay, though unfortunately I haven't got a link, but someone had reported it working on s3, but I was a bit concerned about the leverage it could potentially place on the socket, so didn't buy it
Spirit FM
Specific to KGL
I've had the KGL variant for a couple of weeks. Since I've had my share of Chinese Android devices of all sorts - I kind of knew what to expect in terms of software.. so I wasn't really disappointed BUT... the hands free in this unit was simply unusable... After getting my wife totally upset and my friends pissed at me for calling them using the unit I knew something had to be done.
So I took it apart.
Being that I'm skilled in electronics and pretty much hands-on, I figured out the problem pretty fast. Or should I say "problems" in plural?
Let me start by saying that if you have the KGL variant and suffer from extreme noise bleeding into the mic - there is no software workaround. You either need to send it back and get something else or open and modify it like I did.
Second - the hardware in this thing is of such low quality, and the design is so bad, it makes me cry. I estimate the production cost of this unit is under $50. Pretty pretty low... even for Chinese stuff.
So.. what's the story with the mic noise, you ask? very simple. The mic signal from the front panel is routed unshielded from a small PCB attached to the panel, via 3 PCBs and 2 ribbon cables, for over 15" until it arrives at the Bluetooth module MIC input. On the way, it picks up so much electrical noise and interference it's almost a miracle that you hear anything but static noise. When an external mic is plugged it, the front panel mic is NOT disconnected. Both are electrically connected in parallel which is unheard of (very bad practice). The Bluetooth module is thus responsible for MIC bias and preamp. The BT module is of unknown source and it's hard to tell what quality to expect there (not much, as we all know). Noise cancellation? echo cancellation? forget it!
Now - we know android needs an audio input - we can have some voice activation on the unit, right? so how is it done? simple! the signal from the BT mic input line is run back to the front panel and into a Wolfson CODEC. Just like that... so that the Android audio in would also suffer from the above issues.
This also explains the exact nature of the unit's BT implementation - the handsfree is not done by the Android - it's completely handled by the BT module. BT module has MIC in, AUDIO out (that goes to the BD37534 audio mixer chip) and RS232 control signals that communicate with the Android BT application for User Interface (probably via AT commands).
When you run an Android app that uses audio input - it comes from the Wolfson CODEC but it's essentialy the same lousy MIC signal that the BT also gets.
BUT!!!
I've made some modifications and lo and behold - I can make a good quality phone conversation now! and the google apps have somewhat better performance too... but it did require me to completely mess up the internal wiring and obviously void the priceless warranty
So after I've figured it out - I decided I needed to do the following:
- Give up the option to work with two mics at the same time and opt for the external mic only for voice calls
- Cut and bypass the original traces since they pick up so much noise
- Add a separate input jack for the external microphone since it was not feasible to cut the lines going into the original one
I started by installing the extra jack on the rear panel. Then I removed a jumper 0ohm resistor at the MIC input to the BT module, disconnecting the MIC input from the circuit. I ran a piece of shielded wire from the new jack to the MIC input signal pin ON the BT board. That completed the hands-free modification.
In order for the Android to have some audio input, I then moved to the front panel, and first installed a 0Ohm jumper that was missing by the WM8731 CODEC. This resistor connects the MIC BIAS pin to the MIC input - it is required when using an electret microphone. I then made a cut in the trace from the front panel microphone to the small PCB connector, and ran a piece of shielded wire from the mic terminals to the WM8731 MIC input.
Now the front mic is only for Android (voice commands etc) and the external mic serves hands free.. I could have probably added some smarter electronics but I don't think it would have added anything to the usage experience.
Let me know if anyone is interested in some pictures I've taken and I will upload.
Crappy piece of equipment but at least now it works.
All the best,
Nir
...
Moderation note form dark alex:
these are pictures which belong to dnts' tutorial and research
harlequin69 said:
Great work and thank you for sharing. I can follow most of what you did there except for adding the jumper to the CODEC due to electret mic use, do you have any pics of this? also why did you choose to use both mics in the end? would it not be better to use the external mic for both BT and android?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Regarding external mic for both BT and Android - here is the catch - you need to add a buffer (amplifier circuit) to the mic signal before sending it to two destinations (BT and CODEC) otherwise you will get that awful noise back. The microphones have a high output impedance which makes them prone to electrical noise. Even if you run them using shielded wire to two locations - you will be picking up noise via the ground signal due to the high impedance.
So to keep things simple (for now) I opted for separate mics, with the higher quality one for calls.
As for the required jumper, I attached a pic. The red circle around the empty pads shows where you need to put a short. The green line shows where you would connect the internal mic. Either pad works (they are shorted on the PCB).
Nir
Specific for KGL
From the top of my head.. sorry for that.. Please use pics in my previous posts.
1. Remove unit. Remove screws holding front panel to the chassis (this varies from one car model to another - mine is KIA Sportage).
2. Carefully lay down front panel. Take notice of the two ribbon cables and don't pull them
3. Remove chassis top cover (2 side screws and one screw on the back).
4. Remove optical drive - 4 screws hold it in place. Carefully disconnect ribbon cable.
5. Install 3.5mm mono jack on the rear panel - 2 holes are available for that (those reserved for DTV antenna). Wire a piece of shielded conductor to the jack, shield going to the part touching the chassis (sleeve) and internal conductor going to the "tip" contact.
6. Locate BT module. It will be at the right side of the chassis (eyeing from front), close to the front end of the PCB.
7. Near the BT module, on the main PCB, locate the component marked "C32". It should be marked "0". Remove it. This is a jumper connecting the BT MIC input to the microphones.
8. Connect the other end of the shielded conductor to the BT module to the pin labeled "MIC+". Do if from the back size of the module. Secure the shielded wire in several places so it doesn't loose up over time.
At this point, the external mic will be the only source for BT audio in. It should (obviously) connected to the new jack we installed.
9. Locate the PCB holding the microphone to the front panel. Locate the PCB trace from the lower microphone terminal (the other terminal is connected to the ground plane of the PCB). make a cut to that trace.
10. Prepare another shielded conductor. connect shied to the mic terminal that is grounded (top one) and the internal conductor to the terminal connected to the trace we just cut. (please see picture titled "front mic").
11. Locate WM8731 CODEC chip. Identify missing "R45" pads (only vacant pads near the WM8731 chip). Make a jumper using some solder and a piece of wire. This calls for delicate soldering.
12. Connect other end of mic conductor to the pad of R42 and R45 further away from WM8731 (please see picture titled "CODEC connection")
13. Put everything back together - start with ribbon for the optical drive, 4 screws for the drive, top cover of chassis and front panel. Make sure, before securing the front panel, that the two ribbon cables are well connected and have not moved or shifted inside their connectors.
14. Cross fingers and connect back to power.
You're done.
Nir
Relax, don't do it!
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Specific for JY
tomc99 said:
I did find a capacitor linking the BT module on my JY unit, but removing it didn't give me the results I needed, so that's when I moved to cutting the leg on the BT module.
I seem to get some bias at the microphone socket - maybe a little low, from memory around 1.7 volts, but no audio whatsoever.
A little bit of a mystery to me is that after cutting the leg on the module the internal mic is now virtually clear of all buzzing that was evident beforehand.
I may spend a few hours this weekend and set it up on my bench power supply and have a better play with it.
Tom.
Sent from my GT-N5100 using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a G2110 model( which is a Joyous JY) that suffered with bad buzzing and echoing when using hands free. In stock form testing internal MIC with sound recorder there was no issue. Recording was clear. When I made hand-free call buzzing and reverb sound occurred. I read over and over about the external mic modification and decided to try it. Opened up HU and located C32 which was actually located toward the front center of the unit. I removed it and tested and same issues occurred. I then reconnect C32 as it was apparent that this was not the correct one on this board. I then took advise of previous posts that the cap should be located somewhere near the Bluetooth module so did continuity checks from the + of internal MIC to the caps near the Bluetooth module. I found C102(located seemed to connect to internal MIC on one side and the Bluetooth Mic + on the other. I decided to remove that and test. After removal internal MIC still functioned but hands-free was dead. I am assuming that this was the correct cap that needed to be removed. I did not do anything to the legs of the actual module. I did add an external jack to the backside of the module per the previous posts on how to add external MIC. After I completed the task I tested and the two appear to be separated and the hand-free external seems to function. I still get a little reverb noise but nothing like it was. I am not an electrical guru so I'm not sure if what I did is correct but it seems to have helped somewhat. I took some pics.
Ok...I need to do this as got that horrible Mike thing going with Bluetooth..
I still need to get my head around the best way to do it..
Best way is going to have to print this thread and work out a plan of attack..
At the moment I have not plugged in the mike at back but been using the front Mike for Bluetooth calls..and of course no one can hear me..
As for Bluetooth coming out to speaks..that all works fine..
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
dgcruzing said:
Ok...I need to do this as got that horrible Mike thing going with Bluetooth..
I still need to get my head around the best way to do it..
Best way is going to have to print this thread and work out a plan of attack..
At the moment I have not plugged in the mike at back but been using the front Mike for Bluetooth calls..and of course no one can hear me..
As for Bluetooth coming out to speaks..that all works fine..
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm with you pal. This is pretty confusing, especially when you take into account the different models of the head units. I want to improve my mic, but I don't want to mess up and make it worse.
If anyone with a joying unit wants to put together an idiots guide to this mod, I would send a huge thank you your way. [emoji106]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
tdopko said:
Specific for JY
I have a G2110 model( which is a Joyous JY) that suffered with bad buzzing and echoing when using hands free. In stock form testing internal MIC with sound recorder there was no issue. Recording was clear. When I made hand-free call buzzing and reverb sound occurred. I read over and over about the external mic modification and decided to try it. Opened up HU and located C32 which was actually located toward the front center of the unit. I removed it and tested and same issues occurred. I then reconnect C32 as it was apparent that this was not the correct one on this board. I then took advise of previous posts that the cap should be located somewhere near the Bluetooth module so did continuity checks from the + of internal MIC to the caps near the Bluetooth module. I found C102(located seemed to connect to internal MIC on one side and the Bluetooth Mic + on the other. I decided to remove that and test. After removal internal MIC still functioned but hands-free was dead. I am assuming that this was the correct cap that needed to be removed. I did not do anything to the legs of the actual module. I did add an external jack to the backside of the module per the previous posts on how to add external MIC. After I completed the task I tested and the two appear to be separated and the hand-free external seems to function. I still get a little reverb noise but nothing like it was. I am not an electrical guru so I'm not sure if what I did is correct but it seems to have helped somewhat. I took some pics.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I did my soldering too. I found that my microphone is on pin connection infront of BT module and it is connected through c102 jumper. So i cut that microphone and solder it on back of BT module on mic+ and mic-. Problem is that when I call the internal mic is on and external is not working or is off. I am not sure if the external mic was ever on and I did talk thorough internal mic. Can you just tell me what did you solder to what?
Thank you
dsa8310 said:
I have followed the microphone recipe in post #3964, and here is my experience:
Separation between the Android internal mic and the hands-free external mic is definitely a great solution. With the external mic connected directly to the BT module (and capacitor C32 removed) people tell me that they cannot say that I am using hands-free - the call quality has become that good.
Connecting the internal mic directly to the CODEC chip - not a good idea, unless you have proper tools and you know what you are doing. In fact, Skype and Google Search, both work beautifully with no need for any further change.
Beware, the image in post #3971 , detailing where to connect the mic IS WRONG! The mic should be connected where the strap between the two empty pads is made (in order to have the mic powered with chip's bias voltage). Only the pad at the left end of the green line is OK for mic connection.
I had to redo the soldering, after looking up the chip's pin-out, and this was the end of my empty pads... (overheating with improper tools). With no bias voltage, I could no longer connect the mic directly.
And since I had already cut the mic trace on board, I couldn't reconnect my internal mic, other than using a shielded wire which went outside the unit and into the available external mic socket. Thanks Huifei for your thoughtful design!
And now, my internal mic, even wired through the external mic socket, works perfectly for Android. I got lucky...
So, my advice, stick to the first part of the recipe, it's a must for phone quality hands-free calls, but relax, don't do it - the second part calls for trouble and seems unnecessary, really.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you all for the very useful information that you give us every day,
I am owner of a KLD. Specifically a Witson A7047.
I ask you please to be able to summarize in detail the operations to be done in order to make the modification of the microphone.
As I understand, I should find the capacitor C32 and remove it.
I miss, however, the passage for connecting external microphone.
Excuse my trivial question, but understand little of electronics and I have to carry the equipment by the technician. Obviously I will have to explain what to do.
Thanks for the answer
hello, i'm also using a joying head unit and i have the same problems with my mic. Until now i only used the unit internal mic and the external one is not even connected. Has any of you managed to do any mod (not requiring too much of electronics skills since i dont have any)
Aender84 said:
hello, i'm also using a joying head unit and i have the same problems with my mic. Until now i only used the unit internal mic and the external one is not even connected. Has any of you managed to do any mod (not requiring too much of electronics skills since i dont have any)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The external mic is better than the internal, but it is still not great. It makes a lot of electrical noise on the other end if the phone call. There are some instructions for mic mod here, but I have also read that the joying units are a little different than those details here. I haven't tried it yet, so I can't help any more than that.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
But is there any way to still use the car existing mic? My car already had a stock Bluetooth installed so I also heve the mic for it
Aender84 said:
But is there any way to still use the car existing mic? My car already had a stock Bluetooth installed so I also heve the mic for it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not that I am aware of. It would have to be routed through the Android unit somehow. Otherwise it wouldn't switch automatically when you receive a call. That is if it can even be done at all. I suspect that the Bluetooth module was in the stock radio unit.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I believe is a matter of wiring. The Bluetooth unit was not embedded in the original headunit, so probably there is a way to do it.
Aender84 said:
I believe is a matter of wiring. The Bluetooth unit was not embedded in the original headunit, so probably there is a way to do it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you sure about that? Maybe yours is different than mine. I have the jbl, non-nav unit. I can't access anything to do with the Bluetooth now that I've removed the head unit.
If you're only saying that he can wire the original microphone into the Android unit, that may be possible. It's the same as wiring any external microphone I guess.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have not possibility to hardware mod.
No software mod can help me?if i buy a bt mic?or bt handfree kit?
Inviato dal mio SM-G920F utilizzando Tapatalk
Hi there,
I know there is already some posts relating issues like that, but most of them are dead and without a clear answer.
I actually have a Joying JY-UQ130 (RK3188 headunit) with probably a NXP6624 radio tuner chipset. This HU is installed on a Honda Civic 9G (European model). This car have an amplified antenna which worked very well with OEM radio.
Since I installed my HU, radio signal / reception is not really good. Everything is correctly plugged : blue wire is connected with ANT-CONT (12V) and radio connector is on HU.
Without connecting blue wire, radio signal / reception is clearly worst, so I think everything is OK !
So, I tried like my others to add this ANT-208 amplifier :
http://www.ebay.fr/itm/ANT-208-Car-Inline-Antenna-Aerial-Radio-FM-Signal-Booster-Amplifier-Amp-UK-/111840168048?
Now, ANT-208 and default antenna car's together make radio signal / reception worst than without ANT-208.
Is this box just **** or maybe broken ? I have not red led to control if power is OK. I just plugged red wire on AMP-CONT, which is a 12V wire normally for audio amplifier (but I don't have it). I don't know where to get 12V if I don't use this wire.
Is there any other solution to increase radio signal / reception ? Maybe I can connect another comptable chipset tuner, which is better ? If yes, which compatible chipset would you recommand me ?
Hope this topic can help community to fix this recurrent radio problem !!
Thanks !
Lwysiwyg said:
Hi there,
I know there is already some posts relating issues like that, but most of them are dead and without a clear answer.
I actually have a Joying JY-UQ130 (RK3188 headunit) with probably a NXP6624 radio tuner chipset. This HU is installed on a Honda Civic 9G (European model). This car have an amplified antenna which worked very well with OEM radio.
Since I installed my HU, radio signal / reception is not really good. Everything is correctly plugged : blue wire is connected with ANT-CONT (12V) and radio connector is on HU.
Without connecting blue wire, radio signal / reception is clearly worst, so I think everything is OK !
So, I tried like my others to add this ANT-208 amplifier :
http://www.ebay.fr/itm/ANT-208-Car-Inline-Antenna-Aerial-Radio-FM-Signal-Booster-Amplifier-Amp-UK-/111840168048?
Now, ANT-208 and default antenna car's together make radio signal / reception worst than without ANT-208.
Is this box just **** or maybe broken ? I have not red led to control if power is OK. I just plugged red wire on AMP-CONT, which is a 12V wire normally for audio amplifier (but I don't have it). I don't know where to get 12V if I don't use this wire.
Is there any other solution to increase radio signal / reception ? Maybe I can connect another comptable chipset tuner, which is better ? If yes, which compatible chipset would you recommand me ?
Hope this topic can help community to fix this recurrent radio problem !!
Thanks !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Search other threads in general section and elsewhere. There are several discussions on this topic. No single solution as caused may be related to.particular unit or car situation.
I solved issue by putting additional antenna and joing with existing in car by using Y adapter. That way I got more signal to noise ratio. Just adding amplifiers is not changing SNR.
Sorry for the long time before answering ! Thanks for your answer !
I tried connecting GND of my wires to the car ground, but no improvement.
I tried famous ANT-208, but signal is now worst. I have removed it today, and will see if something is wrong in the ANT-208's box.
Adding another antenna ? Why not Do you know an internal antenna model that works great ? I don't want to have wires and antenna on board, so if I can hide this it would be great.
Lwysiwyg said:
Sorry for the long time before answering ! Thanks for your answer !
I tried connecting GND of my wires to the car ground, but no improvement.
I tried famous ANT-208, but signal is now worst. I have removed it today, and will see if something is wrong in the ANT-208's box.
Adding another antenna ? Why not Do you know an internal antenna model that works great ? I don't want to have wires and antenna on board, so if I can hide this it would be great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Has your car got an OEM antenna booster ? If so you probably just need a power injector.
I have a eunavi PX5 4G/32G with an inbuilt VW Quadlock. The unit has following sound related issues (when in a Skoda Superb 2011);
- when no media is being played, significant background noise can be heard (white noise + clicks, etc). in particular, when downloading over wifi, the noise varies as the load on the CPU varies.
- visible engine noise in the rearview camera
- high level of background noise can be heard when media played from the USB, microsd and less noticeable with the radio.
when on the desk power supply,
- the is persistent low level white noise, but without the clicks, etc and no downloading induced noise.
- the low level white noise is persistent across radio, media, etc.
decided to bite the bullet, and open the unit up, hoping to install the DSP mod.
- Notably the amp chip is located next the power supply,
- the audio chip is on the rear side of the board from the powersupply / amp
- the clock does not have shielding around it, allow the board clearly was designed with that intention
can anyone identify the actual manufacturer of this board and help with the DSP mod
https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...ml?spm=a2700.icbuShop.41413.34.77eb1e36Nr5kPU
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000274050022.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.24.6030147dlf1vAh
I have updated the
- MCU to MTCE_HA_v3.40_1
- system to px5-userdebug 8.0.0.0 OPR5.170623.007 eng.hct.20190428.180147 test-keys
update went smoothly.
It would seem that the sound problems are a grounding and/or VW noise issue powered via the quadlock connector
(i note it is not possible to power via the quadlock connector on the bench - presumably because no canbus connected)
The big question is, can i install a DSP and will it reduce the white noise problem.
I have the same media player with DSP, and have the same problems with background noise. Contacted the seller, and he sent me a new main board - the problem still exist, after replacing the board. The player is mounted in Honda Accord. Tried changing the capacitors - same **** different day ...
Will be following the tread if any solution comes up.
As7i said:
I have the same media player with DSP, and have the same problems with background noise. Contacted the seller, and he sent me a new main board - the problem still exist, after replacing the board. The player is mounted in Honda Accord. Tried changing the capacitors - same **** different day ...
Will be following the tread if any solution comes up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can you make a photo of the board and particularly identify where the DSP is.
thks
gwaitsi said:
can you make a photo of the board and particularly identify where the DSP is.
thks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No idea where the DSP is ... For me it is just a board with some elements and chips on it, no idea what is what. But there are the pictures of the board, if they could be in any help for you.
<<<https://imgur.com/a/l7XVbuz>>>
Copy and paste the link only without "<<<>>>" ... had to cheat the forum since new users are not allowed to attach or send links...
As7i said:
No idea where the DSP is ... For me it is just a board with some elements and chips on it, no idea what is what. But there are the pictures of the board, if they could be in any help for you.
<<<https://imgur.com/a/l7XVbuz>>>
Copy and paste the link only without "<<<>>>" ... had to cheat the forum since new users are not allowed to attach or send links...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not the same board. It is almost the same, but obviously a different revision. Turn the rear view so your thumb is on top. bottom left corner. You are missing the audio ZL3560 chip and the one below it. slightly to the right of the ZL3560 you have a square chip but i cant see the number on it with the quality of your pic.
Do you here varying background noise when downloads are occurring over wifi.
i uploaded your pics for the benefit of others
gwaitsi said:
It's not the same board. It is almost the same, but obviously a different revision. Turn the rear view so your thumb is on top. bottom left corner. You are missing the audio ZL3560 chip and the one below it. slightly to the right of the ZL3560 you have a square chip but i cant see the number on it with the quality of your pic.
Do you here varying background noise when downloads are occurring over wifi.
i uploaded your pics for the benefit of others
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not used the WiFi yet. I had a varying background noise while I was browsing the menu, and every touch of the screen was reflected in the speakers. I gave the media to a repair shop and they changed all the capacitors. Now the noise from browsing the menu is gone, but still there is hell of a "turbo" noise. I can clearly hear my rpm in the speakers. And the problem is gone with other players. Tested the same player to a different car - same "turbo" noise. Tried a "hi-low" filter/converter - the idea was not to use the RCA out ... and the problem became even bigger.
Now the car is in a car audio service, the boys will try to fix the noise, or the medial will be replaced. If it comes to replacing the media unit, since the EUNAVI shop won't assist anymore, claiming that there is no way their media to have such a problem ... the defective unit will gladly be run over by my car ... several times - just to be sure it is dead ...
I've tried 3 different boards with and without DSP and the solution was to turn down the gain on the amplifier. I'm using RCA.
However, I noticed a significant improvement when I plugged the microphone into the back of the unit. Can you test this out and let me know? Both microphones broke on this unit, I'm not sure why, but the whining is gone until I turn the gain on my amp up. It sounds pretty good now, especially after tuning with the dsp board. I'll still be returning it though to try a Dasiata board.
Regarding USB audio: my eunavi board has terrible white noise pops clicks. My newest unit(CHS) has no issues over USB audio. It's flawless. Im thinking about using a HDMI to RCA converter for digital audio and hooking it up to a helix for auto digital /analog switching.
Sent from my LYA-L0C using Tapatalk
As7i said:
I have not used the WiFi yet. I had a varying background noise while I was browsing the menu, and every touch of the screen was reflected in the speakers. I gave the media to a repair shop and they changed all the capacitors. Now the noise from browsing the menu is gone, but still there is hell of a "turbo" noise. I can clearly hear my rpm in the speakers. And the problem is gone with other players. Tested the same player to a different car - same "turbo" noise. Tried a "hi-low" filter/converter - the idea was not to use the RCA out ... and the problem became even bigger.
Now the car is in a car audio service, the boys will try to fix the noise, or the medial will be replaced. If it comes to replacing the media unit, since the EUNAVI shop won't assist anymore, claiming that there is no way their media to have such a problem ... the defective unit will gladly be run over by my car ... several times - just to be sure it is dead ...
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Interesting. From the menu, i also get basic touch screen noise. Downloading just makes it more prominent. I am use the ISO connector for Skoda.
I would say you probably have a ground problem if you are engine noise. You want to make sure, if using an ext amp, the two units are grounded together at the same point.
I will take a look at the caps as well.
lennylen said:
I've tried 3 different boards with and without DSP and the solution was to turn down the gain on the amplifier. I'm using RCA.
However, I noticed a significant improvement when I plugged the microphone into the back of the unit. Can you test this out and let me know? Both microphones broke on this unit, I'm not sure why, but the whining is gone until I turn the gain on my amp up. It sounds pretty good now, especially after tuning with the dsp board. I'll still be returning it though to try a Dasiata board.
Regarding USB audio: my eunavi board has terrible white noise pops clicks. My newest unit(CHS) has no issues over USB audio. It's flawless. Im thinking about using a HDMI to RCA converter for digital audio and hooking it up to a helix for auto digital /analog switching.
Sent from my LYA-L0C using Tapatalk
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Click to collapse
I have a factory fitted blaupunkt amp and connection via the ISO connector. The gain is currently set to -12dB and the amp mode is set to auto detect.
I might take the oscilloscope out when it warms up and have a look,.
As7i said:
I have not used the WiFi yet. I had a varying background noise while I was browsing the menu, and every touch of the screen was reflected in the speakers. I gave the media to a repair shop and they changed all the capacitors. Now the noise from browsing the menu is gone, but still there is hell of a "turbo" noise. I can clearly hear my rpm in the speakers. And the problem is gone with other players. Tested the same player to a different car - same "turbo" noise. Tried a "hi-low" filter/converter - the idea was not to use the RCA out ... and the problem became even bigger.
Now the car is in a car audio service, the boys will try to fix the noise, or the medial will be replaced. If it comes to replacing the media unit, since the EUNAVI shop won't assist anymore, claiming that there is no way their media to have such a problem ... the defective unit will gladly be run over by my car ... several times - just to be sure it is dead ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lennylen said:
I've tried 3 different boards with and without DSP and the solution was to turn down the gain on the amplifier. I'm using RCA.
However, I noticed a significant improvement when I plugged the microphone into the back of the unit. Can you test this out and let me know? Both microphones broke on this unit, I'm not sure why, but the whining is gone until I turn the gain on my amp up. It sounds pretty good now, especially after tuning with the dsp board. I'll still be returning it though to try a Dasiata board.
Regarding USB audio: my eunavi board has terrible white noise pops clicks. My newest unit(CHS) has no issues over USB audio. It's flawless. Im thinking about using a HDMI to RCA converter for digital audio and hooking it up to a helix for auto digital /analog switching.
Sent from my LYA-L0C using Tapatalk
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Click to collapse
gwaitsi said:
I have a factory fitted blaupunkt amp and connection via the ISO connector. The gain is currently set to -12dB and the amp mode is set to auto detect.
I might take the oscilloscope out when it warms up and have a look,.
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I've been following noise issue on PX5 for a while (they all have them) but no one on this forum found the right fix (better ground, change caps, install DSP,ground heatsink of PX5, solder RCA directly nothing really fix it)
Did you solve the problem?
ELCouz said:
I've been following noise issue on PX5 for a while (they all have them) but no one on this forum found the right fix (better ground, change caps, install DSP,ground heatsink of PX5, solder RCA directly nothing really fix it)
Did you solve the problem?
i didn't yet, but can say many of the problems are not there when the unit is on the test bench using PSU rather than in the car. I have a filter and will put that in the car when i have chance. There is definitely a difference in the unit power design. If i try to power via the quadlock connector on the work bench, it doesn't power up. i have to use the non-quad connector. so would be interesting to know if the same unit is working better in a car without the quadlock connector
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Could it be that the hardware is fundamentally flawed.
marchnz said:
Could it be that the hardware is fundamentally flawed.
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it's most likely a combination of cheap components e.g. capacitors, grounding issues and RF isolation/shielding and cheap design shortcuts. it is clear, if you disassemble the unit and move the screen away from the CPU & baseboard, there is less interference from the touch screen. Also supporting that, my unit has an onboard VW Quadlock so it direct plug/play. There is clearly engine noise which doesn't appear with the original blaupunkt unit. But you pay one tenth of the price...so what can you expect. the question is, if you can do enough e.g. add noise filters in line for the quadlock to reduce the problems to an acceptable level.
The bigger issue in my mind is the inbuilt malware. My unit tries to contact a tencent IP address, and also probes the ports on my firewall if i connect the wifi to my guest network ;-)
So finally, I bit the bullet and started to work on solving the issues.
First step is to reduce the engine noise on my 2011 Superb 3T5 Diesel,
which is also particularly amplifier when using USB DAB.
Two possible options
1) so-called camera Rectifier is a 1000uF/16v cap on the input side with a IN4001 rectifier diode and a small cap (probably 10uF not sure) on the output.
2) so-called car power Filter is an inductor with a 2200uF/25V cap on the output side of the inductor.
You can see on the 2nd photo there is an inductor and 4700uF capacitor. I didn't trace the circuit yet,
but I guess this is on the power input from the RCA connector strip and not the Quadlock/VW ISO connector.
I hooked up a scope to the Quadlock connector power and there was noise and a sine wave on it. Although the Quadlock diagram for the Superb shows
12 – Voltage supply, negative, terminal 31
15 – Voltage supply, positive, terminal 30
16 – Anti-theft coding control signal, SAFE, positive
I connected one box of 1) on pin 15 and one box of 1) on pin 16.
There is about a 1v drop on the power to the unit i.e. 14.1v to 13.1-2v but the solution solved the engine noise and significantly reduced the noise of the DAB.
There is still some screen noise, but I noise there is provision for RFI shields around the various components (which have not been installed). I will try to replace the PCB caps and add some shielding to see if i can cut the screen noise out.
gwaitsi said:
So finally, I bit the bullet and started to work on solving the issues.
First step is to reduce the engine noise on my 2011 Superb 3T5 Diesel,
which is also particularly amplifier when using USB DAB.
Two possible options
1) so-called camera Rectifier is a 1000uF/16v cap on the input side with a IN4001 rectifier diode and a small cap (probably 10uF not sure) on the output.
2) so-called car power Filter is an inductor with a 2200uF/25V cap on the output side of the inductor.
You can see on the 2nd photo there is an inductor and 4700uF capacitor. I didn't trace the circuit yet,
but I guess this is on the power input from the RCA connector strip and not the Quadlock/VW ISO connector.
I hooked up a scope to the Quadlock connector power and there was noise and a sine wave on it. Although the Quadlock diagram for the Superb shows
12 – Voltage supply, negative, terminal 31
15 – Voltage supply, positive, terminal 30
16 – Anti-theft coding control signal, SAFE, positive
I connected one box of 1) on pin 15 and one box of 1) on pin 16.
There is about a 1v drop on the power to the unit i.e. 14.1v to 13.1-2v but the solution solved the engine noise and significantly reduced the noise of the DAB.
There is still some screen noise, but I noise there is provision for RFI shields around the various components (which have not been installed). I will try to replace the PCB caps and add some shielding to see if i can cut the screen noise out.
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What are the frequency(s)/period of the noise?
The inductor, what is the physical size?
Have you considered using a shottkey diode instead of the 1n4001?
marchnz said:
What are the frequency(s)/period of the noise? i didn't record it, i saw enough to convince i needed a filter.
The inductor, what is the physical size? I never used option 2. because option 1 worked.
Have you considered using a shottkey diode instead of the 1n4001? i wouldn't over analyse. In summary, this could have been fixed by adding capacitors to the motherboard for the CAN connector power rails. Obviously they tried to save a few cents on manufacturing costs, or was simply an oversight in the initial design
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OK, so youre unsure not sure how to design filters, select the correct components, including filtering and reducing voltage drops.
Not over analyzing, just knowing what the right path is to reducing switching noise.
marchnz said:
OK, so youre unsure not sure how to design filters, select the correct components, including filtering and reducing voltage drops.
Not over analyzing, just knowing what the right path is to reducing switching noise.
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Click to collapse
I provided two links;
1) Half Wave Rectifier
2) Low Pass Filter
of course, you can do this with the raw components for a few cents.
But the two aliexpress links provide them in plastic packaging, which makes them convenient for installing in the car. The half-wave rectifier is a smaller package, so I installed that first. It solved the problem in a much smaller form (given I put in two - without having checked the onboard Quadlock connectors). On the design of my motherboard, it is evident there are no capacitors in the power rails connected to the Quadlock connector (which is the 68pin dual-in-line connector)
While the low pass filter will have less voltage reduction, in this case it makes no difference to the head unit as it is simply reducing the noisy 14v to a clean 13v which is still with range, so frankly, I consider that part of the problem solved.