I tried to hook up a game controller via the OTG adapter and it appears to not send any power out from it. Even with a USB thumb drive and other USB C adapters, nothing seems to work. Has anyone else noticed this? You can transfer data via the cable just fine, but I find it strange it doesn't send any power through the plug.
Have you tried connecting it the other way round?
tomixnscale89 said:
I tried to hook up a game controller via the OTG adapter and it appears to not send any power out from it. Even with a USB thumb drive and other USB C adapters, nothing seems to work. Has anyone else noticed this? You can transfer data via the cable just fine, but I find it strange it doesn't send any power through the plug.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I noticed the same thing. I believe it's because once it comes out the other side with the 5-pin adapter, it is then reduced to the old micro-usb specification, which uses 5 wires. True USB-C connection has like 20 or 24 pins. I was able to get a couple very basic OTG of things to work, like a mouse and a thumb drive. BUT HERE IS THE CATCH - The mag connector has 5 pins, reduced from 20-some on the C connection.. so true USB-C connection is no longer possible once you get on the other side of the connector. So the trick is to NOT use a USB-C OTG when it's in the case with magnetic adapter. You must use a Micro USB OTG with a Micro-to-C adapter attached to that. Even so, not everything worked just by sticking on the Micro-to-C adapter.. Mouse and a thumb drive worked, but my ethernet adapter and VGA/HML/HDMI adapters did not. Out of the case, I can use my USB-C to HDMI cable to display on my TV. But same cord does not work with the magnetic adapter with the case. It is simply not possible because the reduction of contact pins from phone to case to magnet.. One more thing to consider, if you're trying to do anything other than charging, make sure the magnet is on the right way.. there's a little logo it should be in the front.
If I can come across a spare or broken Dual Screen case, I'd be curious to take it apart and see if it would be possible to rig it up with a better plug for the case.. find which wires go to the workings of the DS and leave them intact, but then try to replace the magnetic pins with a female C plug that has all the contacts intact still..
Seymour_Asses said:
I noticed the same thing. I believe it's because once it comes out the other side with the 5-pin adapter, it is then reduced to the old micro-usb specification, which uses 5 wires. True USB-C connection has like 20 or 24 pins. I was able to get a couple very basic OTG of things to work, like a mouse and a thumb drive. BUT HERE IS THE CATCH - The mag connector has 5 pins, reduced from 20-some on the C connection.. so true USB-C connection is no longer possible once you get on the other side of the connector. So the trick is to NOT use a USB-C OTG when it's in the case with magnetic adapter. You must use a Micro USB OTG with a Micro-to-C adapter attached to that. Even so, not everything worked just by sticking on the Micro-to-C adapter.. Mouse and a thumb drive worked, but my ethernet adapter and VGA/HML/HDMI adapters did not. Out of the case, I can use my USB-C to HDMI cable to display on my TV. But same cord does not work with the magnetic adapter with the case. It is simply not possible because the reduction of contact pins from phone to case to magnet.. One more thing to consider, if you're trying to do anything other than charging, make sure the magnet is on the right way.. there's a little logo it should be in the front.
If I can come across a spare or broken Dual Screen case, I'd be curious to take it apart and see if it would be possible to rig it up with a better plug for the case.. find which wires go to the workings of the DS and leave them intact, but then try to replace the magnetic pins with a female C plug that has all the contacts intact still..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you @Seymour_Asses ! I saw here https://twitter.com/konic0s/status/1202966945693220865 that LG G8X supports USB-C to HDMI adapters but I didn't know if it also worked with the Dual Screen case but now I know it doesn't, thanks for the information, very helpful ! :good:
BTW I think that when you connect the Dual Screen case to the G8X it uses the dedicated USB-C high speed pins of the G8X for video-out so these pins are not available anymore for other HDMI out, I'm not sure about it and don't have any proofs but it seems you are right about not enough pins on the mag connector.
If i remember correctly, the manual states that most USB-C functions wont work though the dual screen case. I think there was some speculation that its due to most of that bandwidth being used for the second screen.
Quite simple: the Mag USB-C adapter is for charging only. It drives me mad as i have a professional USB-C headphone that I use for conferencing.
But I understand the reason: when in dual screen, the USB-C data connection is in use dor the second screen, enabling the USB-C connection beyond that requires a hub to be built in the case "before" the DS connection (so it wont work building it in the dongle itself).
I wish LG went with a Pogo connector on the bottom or on the side to activate the DS case. This would have made the chin slimmer and freed up the USB-C port.
Anyway, it is what it is now, and i will not trade my LG G8x DS for anything at the moment... Until maybe that Surface Duo phone for which I might need to sell a vital organ ?
Related
I have a MHL Adapter and I get video just fine. Now I want to be able to sit on my couch while i use the adapter. Seems to me the simplest way would be to use a 15-20 foot Micro USB Male - Micro USB Female extension cable.
Does anyone have any experience with such a setup? Do you have a recommendation for such a cable?
TIA!!
Why micro USB? You can get a HDMI cable as long as you might want (Monoprice is particularly good). If it's not enough you can carry a HDMI signal over a single or (simpler to find) two CAT5 cables w/ RJ45 jacks for hundreds of feet.
I guess the thought was that if I have the Micro USB Extension, then it's one thin lightweight wire that has to travel across the floor.
If I did HDMI, I'd still have to be near power whereas with Micro USB, I could set the power adapter, and HDMI, and MHL Adapter all together and then have a thin and lightweight wire traveling across the floor.
But if it's not possible, (micro USB limitiation??) then HDMI it would have to be.
bean1975 said:
Why micro USB? You can get a HDMI cable as long as you might want (Monoprice is particularly good). If it's not enough you can carry a HDMI signal over a single or (simpler to find) two CAT5 cables w/ RJ45 jacks for hundreds of feet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the micro USB works it would be much cheaper than a comparable length hdmi cord.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk
I would test http://www.amazon.com/Extender-over-CAT5E-CAT6-connection/dp/B003L14ZTC this. It's hard to get cheaper than cat5e.
Just bought 10 feet on amazon! Lovely!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk
I wanted to do exactly this - extend the cable but at the micro-USB end to avoid having the Micro-usb power supply line and the bulky MHL adaptor all where the phone is - much cleaner to just have a thin cable coming out of the phone and headed towards the TV.
I did get hold of a micro-USB extension cable (2m/6ft) but unfortunately it does not work. Directly plugging the phone into the MHL adaptor works perfectly, as soon as I insert the micro-USB extension it doesn't work. I need to have a closer look to check the pins are populated etc, but not sure why this would be an issue - don't think it can be signal strength and if all the pins are populated I don't see why the adaptor would care.????
Any thoughts?
Micro B USB extension not working
I, too have been trying to figure out why an extension cable doesn't work the way you think it might. Today, I tried cutting my 6 foot cable, first making sure I had the right power leads working. Then I went through all the possible combinations of connections to see if one would work. None do. I'm at a complete loss on this wondering what I should try next.
Thanks for info....similarly baffled but at least you have ruled out something!
Like the other guy said, get your x for of hdmi cable, then just plug your AC charger in where you are. Mhl might use additional connectors/pins/whatever vs micro USB. Or you can go totally wireless and use a Bluetooth mouse and keyboard.
Also I remember I had a charging issue with an extension. Sometimes one product works better than others. I can't charge my phone with my 20 dollar AC charger from best buy since the ICS leak. It's weird. Hdmi cables are pretty uniform, I would just extend that.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA
Yes, that works, always has, but that's not the point. Would rather have just one long cable connected to the phone in front of the TV rather than three cables, the device and the phone in a kludge setup.
A partial answer
This allows connecting 6 feet away with a thin, flexible single cable..Also cheap, but shipping takes 15 days.
goo.gl/NzCik
Gavdroid said:
I did get hold of a micro-USB extension cable (2m/6ft) but unfortunately it does not work. Directly plugging the phone into the MHL adaptor works perfectly, as soon as I insert the micro-USB extension it doesn't work. I need to have a closer look to check the pins are populated etc, but not sure why this would be an issue - don't think it can be signal strength and if all the pins are populated I don't see why the adaptor would care.????
Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I took apart the two cables and the USB has four wires while the MHL cable has ten.
are the mhl wires easily extendable themselves by splicing? I'm thinking strip out a few usb cables and use the wires? Or just go purchase some extremely thin gauge wire (22 gauge) and make it yourself?
Micro B USB extension not working
The Micro B USB connector only has 5 connections, so there is no way you can connect 10 from the MHL cable to it, so something else is going on.
pinoutsguide.com/PortableDevices/micro_usb_pinout.shtml
amblix said:
are the mhl wires easily extendable themselves by splicing? I'm thinking strip out a few usb cables and use the wires? Or just go purchase some extremely thin gauge wire (22 gauge) and make it yourself?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought splices and thought about extending the cable. It's possible.
galaxy s3
I did wanted to do the same but the extension cable didn't work. I looked at the connecting points and felt that the micro usb from Mel adaptor is to bit longer than usual so I thought that may be the reason and I shorten it resulting damaging my Mel adaptor itself. Now I am going for allshare cast wireless hub. So everyone please don't try to cut the micro usb pin from your adaptor or u will better decide to for my option to for complete flexibility.
I want to do this EXACT same thing but slightly more extreme:
I want an MHL adapter with 10-25 feet of micro USB cable on the end so I can use it from anywhere in my living room.
Is there any such cable/adapter?
Why do all MHL adapters come with only a 5 inch cable??? It is maddening!
*bump* I am looking for this too.. but I have a reason slightly different.. I have an AppRadio in my car that I connect my phone to. The MHL cable end is rather bulky and does not fit into the opening of my otterbox that is on my phone... most microUSB wires fit into the opening just fine.. Taking my phone out of the case every time I am in the car is rather ridiculous so I bought the micro USB extension (bought a 6" one).. didn;t even register except to charge... So, and ideas would be greatly appreciated..
Teej53214 said:
*bump* I am looking for this too.. but I have a reason slightly different.. I have an AppRadio in my car that I connect my phone to. The MHL cable end is rather bulky and does not fit into the opening of my otterbox that is on my phone... most microUSB wires fit into the opening just fine.. Taking my phone out of the case every time I am in the car is rather ridiculous so I bought the micro USB extension (bought a 6" one).. didn;t even register except to charge... So, and ideas would be greatly appreciated..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Get a different MHL adapter. I use an adapter close to the one 7 posts up by hedaleth with my kenwood system in my truck.
First off I'd to say hello from Alaska,
Ok this may sound strange but does anybody out there know where i might find or have one made, I'm looking for a cable with 2 40 pin connectors on both ends, 1 male and the other female. This is for my TF201 and dock, I would use it so I don't have to take off the case to the Prime just plug in to the prime and to the dock..
Thank you all Stan
Cables to Go should be able to do this for you. I've had them make custom cables for me before. It likely won't be cheap, but they should be able to do it.
www.cablestogo.com
Just in case anyone was curious, I thought I would try to get lucky and see if a female-female USB adapter with a standard ASUS 40-pin cable on either end would work. However, it was only a novel attempt and the tablet does not recognize the dock as I had hoped.
I am sure Cables-to-Go could get something to work, but I agree that it will be quite expensive. It would be nice if there was a jumper cable accessory to accomplish this same concept since I am in the same position as the OP and typically carry the tablet in its own case and only use the dock when I have alot of typing to do.
On a side note, I did confirm that my Logitech Anywhere Mouse with the Unifying Receiver does work 100% with my tablet and Dock!....I just may be able to leave the laptop at the office yet!
Does anyone have a mapping of the pins and wires? I would like to try and "splice" two cables together to try and make a jumper cable but would need to make sure that I make the right connections. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
I don't think that's going to work for several reasons.
First and foremost, if use two TP USB cables as the souce of the parts, you'll end up with a "jumper" cable with male connectors at both ends. You need male to female, remember?
Secondarily (and almost as important) is the number of contacts on the USB end of the cable. USB has four conductors plus shield and nine conductors plus shield in USB 3. Taking a cursory glance at USB plug on my TP cable, that's all there is. I don't see any additional conductors.
Following this, it's EXCEEDINGLY unlikely that the cable has 40 wires (one for each pin on the Prime end) running the full length. If it did, where would they connect to on the USB plug? Kinda silly to include extra copper to go nowhere.
Instead, if you were to pry open the 40 pin male plug, you'll see that most the pins aren't connected to anything. They're not needed for the USB cable.
Sorry to say, this just isn't going to work.
If you do choose to clip one of your cables just to have a look-see, cut the cable somewhere in the middle. If you cut right up next to the USB plug, you won't have ample wire there to repair what you're about to break.
I am aware that you will need a female adapter to make a true "jumper" cable. However, there may be a way of jerry-rigging a connection to the dock if a female connector can't be found (I have yet to find a part online).
My question is more in regards to whether or not anyone had a schematic of which of the pins are connected to which of the respective USB pins so that I could determine the best way of making a connection....short of having a cable for the ASUS TF201 like this: iPhone Extension Cable
Some kernels for the Evo 3D on XDA now have On-The-Go (OTG) USB host support built-in so it's very easy to support USB peripherals such as keyboards, mice, flash drives and portable hard drives from your phone regardless of the ROM installed. If you would like more information about OTG, here's a very good thread in the XDA Sensation forum that covers it pretty well.
The commands to mount and unmount USB storage devices manually are covered in that thread, but I've found the easiest way to mount and dismount my flash drive is to use an app called [root]StickMount from Chainfire, the developer of SuperSU. Depending on the ROM installed, it may not be considered compatible and won't show in the Play Store, so I've attached the .apk in case that happens.
I haven't used devices other than flash drives so far on my phone, but other users have indicated that keyboards, mice and other USB devices also work. If you are using OTG to attach any type of USB devices, please share your experiences and any tips you might have. Also, please use this thread for any questions you might have about OTG support and devices, even if you haven't gotten around to trying it yourself yet.
Other XDA threads about OTG related stuff:
Solar powered USB hub (kinda cool)
usb otg cradle
Nitty gritty OTG hardware discussion
Post with diagram of OTG connections
Thanks to mpgrimm2 for suggesting that we share this information from another site (there's actually more over there ).
ramjet73
I want to thank Markmx6 for his guide on another site that was easy for me to follow to make my own OTG cable and Ramjet73 for digging up and posting his links here. Maybe Markmx6 will add his info over here now too since all this works with the Buttered Toast Kernel (bigwillyg).
I got to looking around and wondering with the parts I have if I am setup for OTG and just need to plug everything together without hacking up a power supply which I'd prefer not to do.
Here's what I have on hand:
I ohmed out the " CrazyOnDigital 2 port charger's" data pins:
Port1-pin3 & port2-pin3 = 0.1 ohms (and about 30k to gnd/shld)
Port1-pin2 & port2-pin2 = 0.1 ohms (and about 30k to gnd/shld)
(I also reversed the leads in case I was reading through a diode)
So it looks like the data pins on this aren't shorted together and that it will function as a Powered USB "y" cable/pass through between ports 1 & 2.
Part 2
I realize that my purchased USB OTG cable won't plug in between the charger & my phone so I may use a USB extension Cable and USB A to A adapter that I have (not pictured) or I may just hack a spare USB A to Micro USB (5pin) cable that I have into another OTG Cable.
Q: My understanding is that an OTG cable has the ID pin (pin 4 of the 5pin Micro) tied to Gnd, like Markmx6 did in his original cable; correct? So, that's why the micro USB end gets cut open a bit.
A: Yes.
----------------------------------------------------------------
My Additional References:
Zoom [DIY] MicroUSB Host Cable
So in a normal micro/mini USB cable, there are 4 wires, 5 pins.
1. Red - V+
2. White - Data -
3. Green - Data +
4. Empty
5. Black - Ground
That micro male to mini female cable above has the 4th (5th?) wire, brown. This is the ID wire. Shorted to ground, it makes the cable a host cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wikipedia's: USB On-The-Go page
The OTG cable has a micro-A plug on one side, and a micro-B plug on the other (it cannot have two plugs of the same type). OTG adds a fifth pin to the standard USB connector, called the ID-pin; the micro-A plug has the ID pin grounded, while the ID in the micro-B plug is floating. The device that has a micro-A plugged in becomes an OTG A-device, and the one that has micro-B plugged becomes a B-device. The type of the plug inserted is detected by the state of the pin ID .
Three additional ID pin states are defined[4] at the nominal resistance values of 124 kΩ, 68 kΩ, and 36.5 kΩ, with respect to the ground pin. These permit the device to work with a USB Accessory Charger Adapter which allows the OTG device to be attached to both a charger and another device simultaneously.[6]
These three states are used in the cases of:
- A charger and either no device or an A-device that is not asserting VBUS (not providing power) are attached. The OTG device is allowed to charge and initiate SRP but not connect.[6]
- A charger and an A-device that is asserting VBUS (is providing power) are attached. The OTG device is allowed to charge and connect but not initiate SRP.[6]
- A charger and a B-device are attached. The OTG device is allowed to charge and enter host mode.[6]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Micro-USB connector pinout
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Part3: SUCCESS! (with Otg Enabled kernel)
I went ahead and modified a spare USB A to Micro B cable for OTG without power. Plugged everything up with my Logitech Wireless USB mouse and it works! Cool as can be! See new pics. (Yellow wire is the Jumper).
Still have a few questions:
Q: Would the "purchased" OTG Cable already have pin 4 & 5 Shorted?
A: YES it should, but one of the cables I bought was defective.
Q: Does your OTG setup from the op charge the phone at the same time (and/or keep it charged)?
A: Yes
Edit: Apparently I broke the +5v wire during reassembling the cable. See next post.
(SEE UPDATED POSTS FARTHER DOWN)
EDIT:
In Relation to my Following Posts, I have patched together the following cable schematics as a reference to the cables I have either made or purchased.
If you have the ability & willingness to find out what the ID pin resistance is in your "Accessory" device as mentioned below please let me know. I am trying to correlate the info from the Wikipedia/USB OTG reference to all the available ID pin states.
Mpgrimm2; I have a small update from some of my testing regarding the USB OTG 4 ID pin states (pin 4 to pin 5 "gnd" ).
Ininity (Open) = Standard USB data/charge
0 Ω (shorted) = USB OTG host
36.5K Ω = desktop cradle/dock
(my seidio actually has a 47k Ω resistor said:
Anyone want to open their car dock and check the resistor?
Anyone want to open their MHL adapter & check the resistor on that too?[/COLOR]
Wikipedia's: USB On-The-Go page
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's what I've found out or verified:
- I'm still not sure about the 3 different USB OTG ID modes that were mentioned. In the test rig (pictured) for different values of resistance between pin 4 (ID) and pin 5 (gnd):
0 ohm (Short) = USB OTG host
36.5k ohm (47k in use) = Dock Mode
68K ohm (74k in use) = Dock Mode
124k Ohm (127k in use) = No discernible effect
I also determined that my first homemade USB OTG cable wouldn't allow the phone to charge because of a broken +5v wire during reassembly (new one works correctly, but so far I preferred the simplicity of the original setup & charger over the new cable I made, but time will tell.
Here's the Ebay link to the OTG cable RamJet73 recommended (same as the last one I made b/c I didn't want to wait) so that I can keep it linked in one place.
Here are the pictures of the 2nd cable that I made that is "very similar" to the one Ramjet73 mentioned at eBay but 2ft longer (See Schematic #4 in later post).
Keep in mind that the OTG function will be disabled if an OTG cable is plugged into a USB charger that has the data pins shorted internally (AC charging), but this doesn't appear to happen with a powered hub (isolated)
Markmx6's "Homemade Powered OTG Cable" Part 1
I got permission from Markmx6 to repost this here:
Markmx6; said:
First off, I am not responsible for you screwing up your phone, shorting your house out, frying your SD card, burning down your home, or anything else that may or may not occur from you building this...
Tools you will need: Razor blade, Soldering iron, Solder, Super glue.
Optional tools: Dremel with cut-off wheel.
I started with components I imagine you will all have, since they came with the phone. The HTC charging cable and outlet adapter.
First, cut around the base of the outlet adapter. This is around 3/16" thick, and the cut is better off to be made on the "shiny" plastic than the "dull" portion. I used a Dremel, but any type of blade will do, it just may take more time.
Make a cut along the white line on the board (Shown in red here) Otherwise this will not work. On typical chargers they short out the Data+ and the Data- connections (mpg2 edit: it forces "AC Charging" mode). Not sure why... Digging a razor blade across this several times should do the trick, but if you want to make sure with a continuity tester that will always give piece of mind.
Now you need to cut your cable, I recommend leaving around 2" or more from the standard usb side. (A little of this wire will come in handy for later in this project)
Cut and then strip your wires, there will be a braided shielding wire just under the insulation. Then it will be helpful to "Tin" the ends of your wires.
The shielding can be completely removed, or you can ground it out, but I haven't found this to be needed.
You will now need to solder the wires to the circuit board. This will obviously need to be in the correct order.
From the top will be:
RED = 5V+
WHITE = Data +
GREEN = Data -
BLACK = 5V-
Now you can re-assemble the Outlet adapter if you choose.
Now you need to cut up the other (phone) end of your cable to enable the OTG function.
Post 2 will outline this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Markmx6's "Homemade Powered OTG Cable" Part 2
Markmx6; said:
Carefully cut down the sides of the connector, if you can do this in one clean cut it will be helpful when you re-attach then after your modifications.
Carefully cut away the plastic, and what looks like hot glue. You need to expose the side that has a blank terminal. and the one on the other side that has a black wire.
Pins 4 and 5 need to be attached, so a small piece of wire (from the leftover ends of the cable comes in handy) works really well.
It doesn't really show up in the pictures though
Now re-glue the pieces from the end of the cable back onto the connector
That is all.
I am using 3.2.8otg for a kernel and negalite2.9 and otg helper and everything works as it should.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1588979
For usb storage you need to have all of the cables hooked up before you insert the SD card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
NOTE: Bigwillig's [Kernel] ButteredToasT ICS RLS 04 | Linux 3.0.46 | linaro 4.7 -o3 | otg | HTC beats also supports OTG with any rom that will boot the kernel.
Sent from my "Up all night, Sleep all day" EVO3D!
Ebay/Applecable Purchased OTG Cable & USB Hub
I just verified that if you get the Micro USB Host OTG Cable With USB power ($6 from AppleCable on Ebay) that Ramjet73 mentioned (or this one), it will work with any standard USB charger (ie the 1 Amp HTC or 2 Amp HP Touchpad Charger) because the USB Power Connector is Isolated. I also picked up Applecable's USB 2.0 3 Port Hub with data Sync Charger cable for $7
(I may try to modify it to be a USB OTG powered hub with this OTG Adapter and this USB to 3.5mm/1.3mm Adapter to power the hub directly from "ANY" USB charger.
EDIT: It works fine, but modified it anyway).
Here's some updated AppleCable Ebay Store links (4-18-14):
Micro USB Host OTG Cable With USB power
USB 2.0 3 Port Hub with data Sync Charger cable (not OTG, but a cheap hub that works. can be modified for OTG)
Micro USB Host OTG Cable w/micro USB power
Left Angled Micro USB Host OTG Cable w/USB power
Right Angled Micro USB Host OTG Cable w/USB power
^^^
been looking for something like this!! post back on your progress
mpgrimm2 said:
I just verified that if you get the Micro USB Host OTG Cable With USB power ($6 from AppleCable on Ebay) that Ramjet73 mentioned (or this one), it will work with any standard USB charger (ie the 1 Amp HTC or 2 Amp HP Touchpad Charger) because the USB Power Connector is Isolated. I also picked up Applecable's USB 2.0 3 Port Hub with data Sync Charger cable for $7 (I may try to modify it to be a USB OTG powered hub with this).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just found out that the version of the OTG cable with the female microUSB connector doesn't charge the phone when power is applied to that connector. The eBay listing at your link above doesn't say one way or the other, but this link was posted on another site and that listing specifically says it doesn't. I'm not sure why that is, but it looks like the same brand (Chen Yang) in both listings.
The version with the male USB A connector for power can definitely charge the phone when in use. I've tested that myself.
ramjet73
Now that I've made a few on my own and bought the one you recommended, I can say it likely has to do with the way that it's wired up. I would bet that the Applecable one with the M & F microUSB allows charging.
Note: I also updated my previous post with a new USB to 3.5mm adapter for the hub. I ordered both adapters (so I don't have to cut/solder mods to the hub) and will report back once I get it. (also picked up a 2nd 3d for my son's b-day coming up so I don't waste an upgrade just yet).
Edited
I just don't get it... Found many usb hubs with internal rechargeable batteries, but all are old posts, not available for sell anymore . Why is it so complicated for Evo 3D to connect usb to it? I really want to connect my Razer Banshees to it, but all this running around to find a usb hub with internal battery is killing me, and having one that works on charger is ilogical, from my point of view. If i want to do this, I want it to be portable, otherwise I'd just connect it to my pc/laptop. I connected them to a Galaxy S3 and they worked instantly. I use Coolexe's ROM and Kernel (v4.0), and it says that it has usb support and usb headset support
posedatull said:
I just don't get it... Found many usb hubs with internal rechargeable batteries, but all are old posts, not available for sell anymore . Why is it so complicated for Evo 3D to connect usb to it? I really want to connect my Razer Banshees to it, but all this running around to find a usb hub with internal battery is killing me, and having one that works on charger is ilogical, from my point of view. If i want to do this, I want it to be portable, otherwise I'd just connect it to my pc/laptop. I connected them to a Galaxy S3 and they worked instantly. I use Coolexe's ROM and Kernel (v4.0), and it says that it has usb support and usb headset support
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unlike Samsung, HTC hasn't officially supported OTG so we are lucky to have some ROM's and kernels that do support it. Even the utilities like stickmount don't download from the Play Store because the Evo 3D is not considered a compatible device.
USB mice and keyboards can work without external power, but many other devices need power and would drain the phone battery very quickly even if they could use it. I have no experience with USB headphones on a phone, but it would make more sense to me to have batteries in the headphones and not depend on the phone for power. Another possibilty may be to use an external battery like this one connected to an OTG adapter that includes a connector for external power, but I haven't test that.
I use rechargeable stereo bluetooth headphones so I don't have to mess with cables at all, but if you prefer the USB headphones the options may be more limited with the Evo 3D than the SGS3.
ramjet73
Between the items Ramjet73 and I have mentioned in previous posts (edited below), you should be able to piece together the functionality you are looking for, but still not ideal as far as portability. Markmx6 has mentioned making his own "D" battery powered usb hub (I think) that he may post here sometime. Hope this helps.
mpgrimm2 said:
I also picked up
this USB 2.0 3 Port Hub with data Sync Charger cable for $7
this OTG Adapter
this USB to 3.5mm/1.3mm Adapter to power the hub directly from a USB port/charger).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ramjet73 said:
Another possibilty may be to use an external battery
like Rechargeable USB Universal Battery connected to an OTG adapter that includes a connector for external power, but I haven't tested that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good find Ramjet73! Got me thinking about options again, just waiting on my parts to get here. Mind if I paste this into the other sites thread?
Saw this app posted in the Buttered Toast thread and may give it a try for NTFS support:
mnomaanw said:
You can mount NTFS drives with this App ----> https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.paragon.mounter&hl=en
I think it can mount exFAT also.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
posedatull said:
I just don't get it... Found many usb hubs with internal rechargeable batteries, but all are old posts, not available for sell anymore . Why is it so complicated for Evo 3D to connect usb to it? I really want to connect my Razer Banshees to it, but all this running around to find a usb hub with internal battery is killing me, and having one that works on charger is ilogical, from my point of view. If i want to do this, I want it to be portable, otherwise I'd just connect it to my pc/laptop. I connected them to a Galaxy S3 and they worked instantly. I use Coolexe's ROM and Kernel (v4.0), and it says that it has usb support and usb headset support
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I built a 4 port charger using four "D" batteries for a trip I took to Disney world (five kids on a six hour flight.... required someway to recharge Nooks, cell phones, and etc)
To break it down simply I used a four battery holder. (Apparently I don't have enough posts to post links, pull up radioshacks website and search for "D" battery holder)
You don't need "D" batteries as these are bulky, I used them because size wasn't really a factor. "AA" or "AAA" batteries should be fine. Remember Alkaline batteries provide 1.5 volts each NiCad (Older rechargeable) 1.2 volts There are newer voltages to my knowledge...
I used four batteries because it produces 6 volts in series. MAY POSSIBLY DAMAGE YOUR PHONE
Ideally you would provide 5 volts which is what USB provides, I find 6 volts worked fine for me.
For my charger I shorted the DATA +/- terminals together to fool the phone into believing it was using AC power for a faster charge.
All you really need to do to continue to use the hub as a Data transfer device would be to solder the red and black wires to their respective terminals on the hub, it shouldn't matter which port you use as they should all be linked, other hubs may vary.
You may also be able to just wire a female USB port onto the battery holder and use a hub plugged into that...
My CrazyOnDigital 2 port charger doesn't have the data pins shorted (D+ and D-) like the stock HTC unit. This causes any "Android" phone to charge at the lower 500ma Max "Charging USB" rate vs "AC Charging" (explains my slow charging when travelling), but a bonus is that it allows me to pass data b/w the 2 ports like a simple hub.
- If the D+ and D- pins are shorted when an OTG USB cable is plugged in, the phone will go into "AC Charging" mode, but not allow OTG devices to work, but if the phone is still connected and the data pins opened back up, you retain "AC Charging" mode and have USB OTG functions.
(I'm thinking that a simple on/off switch installed across the data pins of my charger will give me a dual mode charger).
---------------------------------------------------------
AC CHARGING / USB CHARGING (Data Pass Through) MOD 12-1-12
- I got tired of having a 2 port 2 Amp charger that only allowed 500ma "USB Charging" with Android & OTG. See pix:
mpgrimm2 said:
I just verified that if you get the Micro USB Host OTG Cable With USB power ($6 from AppleCable on Ebay) that Ramjet73 mentioned (or this one), it will work with any standard USB charger (ie the 1 Amp HTC or 2 Amp HP Touchpad Charger) because the USB Power Connector is Isolated. I also picked up Applecable's USB 2.0 3 Port Hub with data Sync Charger cable for $7
(I may try to modify it to be a USB OTG powered hub with this OTG Adapter and this USB to 3.5mm/1.3mm Adapter to power the hub directly from "ANY" USB charger).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And here is my new OTG setup with the modified charger (no need to modify the charger with this) and modified hub:
Also works well with [MOD] Self Powered USB OTG on the HP Touchpad! (v2 Full Size) 11-30-12
Just out of curiousity, will a sixaxis controller be supported by otg? Could anybody confirm this for me.
Jsparta26 said:
Just out of curiousity, will a sixaxis controller be supported by otg? Could anybody confirm this for me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw someone taking about it in the HP Touchpad CM9 thread, I will see if I can find the post & report back.
update: post was here
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Separately, I saw this (couldn't find the u12000 solar hub mentioned previously)
Opteka BP-SC4000 Ultra Thin Solar Powered High Capacity (4000mAh) Backup Battery and Charger
I know some have mentioned an interest in an all in one OTG enabled solar powered charger with battery backup. Sounds easy enough with the correct parts.
Sent from my "Up all night, sleep all day" HP CM9 Touchpad
Hi,
Does anyone has any idea why the micro-USB connectors which are used to connect a HDMI or VGA cable to the micro-USB port of the Samsung Galaxies are longer than let's say a data micro USB connector?
I've tried a micro-USB extension cable, and they don't work with these video-output connectors because they're too long. When I looked inside the connector I noticed that all the connection points are way down the connector, and that the upper part is just extra. So I've tried filing off the upper part. Now it charges the phone, but still no video output.
Thanks!
Never mind, just found an answer to my question
Apparently the dock / video out connectors are 11 pin micro USB connectors. The data and charging cable connectors are 5 pin.
Now to find an extension cable for that. I wonder if this excists.
It would be much easier to find HDMI/VGA extension cable rather then the 11 ping micro usb.
golalmo said:
It would be much easier to find HDMI/VGA extension cable rather then the 11 ping micro usb.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed, but the problem is that I want to extend the dock connector so I can put my Note 3 next to my dock to put it in landscape.
Hello
Can someone tell me the exact type of USB connector is on the Samsung Galaxy View. Then manual only says
it's a USB connector V2.
I've ordered the device but have not received it yet. But trying to determine if the connector is USB v2 or micro USB connector?
Want to plug in an ethernet adapter.
Thanks in advance
JRS
The port is micro-USB (not to be confused with mini-USB). Although most stores don't mention it, most reviews do. The Gizmodo review even has a close-up picture: https://gizmodo.com/samsung-galaxy-view-review-i-love-this-magical-slab-of-1740835366
i would recommend grabbing a micro usb "cable" OTA adapter - you can utilize it for all usb storage, upgrades, etc, etc.... they make a hard snap in adapter but use caution on them as for as easy as they snap in , they also snap out breaking your port with it. The cable adapters are way more flexible and with the tablet being so large in the first place it really doesn't make a difference if it's dangling on the side.