Posting this for reference, for folks who might have the same issue.
GPS mostly stopped working on my Xperia X Compact; would work intermittently only about 10% of the time. GPS tools confirmed no GPS reception. Various postings throughout the internet indicated this to generally be a hardware issue, and fixable only via Sony service.
In my case, it turned out the GPS antenna was simply not making contact with the GPS connector on the mainboard. Fix was relatively easy.
The GPS/Cellular/WiFi/BT antennas on this phone are all located on a removable "inner frame". These antennas all "connect" to the mainboard via "contact points". There are no actual "locking connectors" or anything like that. Just pressure between the contact point on the "inner frame" and the corresponding contact points on the main board. Over time, the connection between these contact points can degrade due to dirt, oxidation, belly button lint, pixie dust, whatever.
Fix is to remove back cover, remove 7 screws holding down "inner frame", pop out "inner frame", make sure contact points are all clean, reseat "inner frame", tighten screws. I'm leaving out some minor details here; just watch the youtube Xperia X Compact teardown video for specifics. Note you will need tape and/or glue to keep the back cover on after this procedure; if you use a case it probably isn't an issue.
See attachment. Contact points are circled in blue & red. I don't know which ones are actually for the GPS, vs cell/WiFi/BT.
Related
Since it's the aluminum back that's supposedly blocking the signal, one could theoretically cutout or punch some small holes over the wireless device akin to the speaker port. Then since the back is so easily stretchable, get a protective skin and put it over top.
Thoughts?
Erusman removed the back of his Prime and then installed antennae that go through the back in order to improve WiFi and GPS performance. However most people haven't found any value with the idea of cutting up the back of their Prime since there is no guarantee that WiFi will improve by a significant amount, however it is 100% guaranteed that cutting a hole in the back of the Prime will void your warranty.
There are plenty of Prime's out there that have pretty good WiFi performance. My Prime's WiFi is nearly as good as my Windows laptop and more than good enough for everything I would ever need to do on my tablet.
If your WiFi isn't working well enough to meet your needs, return or exchange your Prime for one that is working better.
I've had 2 prime side to side and one gets better speed than the other connected to the same router and test ran separately. So IMO there's either faulty hardware or bad connection. Have you tried getting an exchange?
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
Cutting little holes will not help. A metal mesh or grid reflects radio waves as effectively as solid metal plate - this is even used in some radio telescopes. In order for the radio waves to come through you would have to cut a hole with size comparable to the length of the EM wave. WiFi wavelength is about 12 cm...
At last some real info in a sea of misinformation.
The only thing which will fix this and the gps issue is a good window with a non-conductive cover, or maybe a plug-in or screw-in antenna.
I am sure, though, that some of the preproduction models had some hardware issues relating to antennas, as well as the oft quoted "metal back" issue.
I, too am finding the WiFi performance acceptable, and the sheer flexibility and neatness of the rest of the UK package (tab +dock) has made me a firm fan of the ATP.
Shame about the GPS, though, as there are many google and Android apps which work with phones and GPS which could translate productively to the Prime.
FG (confirmed fan)
Ok thanks for the insight everyone. I now believe my original concept wouldn't work.
I'm curious if there's has been any confirmation of an improved signal by simply removing the back. Someone had said it could be as much a hardware issue as it is the back design.
My wifi is acceptable, it's about the same as it is on my Nexus One which I'd feel bad complaining about. Though it's not as good as my Macbook.
I was just trying to brainstorm some possible solutions. Maybe I'll look into the antennea.
Felisek said:
Cutting little holes will not help. A metal mesh or grid reflects radio waves as effectively as solid metal plate - this is even used in some radio telescopes. In order for the radio waves to come through you would have to cut a hole with size comparable to the length of the EM wave. WiFi wavelength is about 12 cm...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So the plastic apple on the back of the ipad where the wifi is mounted is a gimmick? I find that a little hard to believe.
no, the apple cut out is big enough to let some RF through.
compact antennas and some serious amplification will do the rest. Look at the size of some of the antenna modules in other threads to see how small they are.
In fact look at how small the ipad antenna which is stuck behind the apple logo is.
the poster was right that a few small holes in a grounded plate would not let through enough juice to work.
That would amount to a Farady cage, which is used to screen RF signals, not let them through.
FG
Hi all. This is my first post and would like to thank the many posters and helpful threads I've read while going through my many previous phones.
After hours and hours of trying to figure out why I've been having Wifi issues, I came across a thread on XDA that helped me find a couple of simple fixes. I had to rule out the issue being with my Wifi router since all of my other electronic devices that used Wifi all worked. It had to be the phone. That and the latest software update never fixed the issue.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1688538
First off, a big Thank You to "bigoliver" across the pond who posted the :"Hardware Fault, Wifi Antenna Fault" thread in the HTC One X forum. I'll thank him here since I could not find the "thank you" button on the thread. Sorry, still a newbie.
Anyhow, after reading the thread and follwing the many helpful links in the post, I figure the probelm could be the same seeing how the Sprint version was not that mcuh different other than the Sprint only changes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-QrMgSvna4
After performing the "squeeze test" as noted in the One X thread and Youtube video above, I noticed the same issue with the EVO LTE. Seems like the springs for the Wifi and BT antennas were good or enough contact with the antenna on the inside of the back case. This can be done with the Wifi Analyxer app. by simply putting pressure on the screen and back cover between the camera and volume rockers, you would notice the Wifi signal increase or decrease as your remove pressure in that area. This is where the antenna springs make conact with the antenna just inside the back cover.
The few video's I found on Youtube showed a few ways to fix the issue. One was having to solder a few contact to the Wifi and BT antenna springs. This seemed a bit dangerous since the user had to take apart the screen to get access to the spring location and back cover. Seeing how the Sprint version had the simple back cover that allowed access to the antenna springs, I figured I give it a try without soldering.
http://www.techrepublic.com/photos/...=11&tag=siu-container;thumbnail-view-selector
The picture above shows the EVO LTE front facing down with teh back cover off. With the phone facing down, you will see the two antenna springs pointing to the left by the volume rockers and just above the kickstand. If you look at the inside of the back cover, you will see the yellow antennas. If you align the cover as if your were putting the cover back, you will see the two antenna contact points. This is where the Wifi and BT antenna contacts are found.
All that I had to do was pretty simple. I took a tiny flat head screw driver to gently lift the two antenna springs up. Just enough to give a better contact to the antenna with the cover closed.
Once the back cover was back in place, the Wifi analyzer showed the Wifi signal to immediately increase. The Wifi signal was as strong if not stronger that my previous Evo 3D. I even noticed Wifi hot spots around me that I never saw before. This also helped the BT seing how the antennas are located at the same spot.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsUs2IVEU-c
The other simple fix I found above seemed a bit tacky but worked. The user placed a small coin underneath the phone cover in the area where the the springs contacted the antenna on the back cover. I tried this also and it worked. Just didn't dig the sight of the coin beneath the cover.
Seeing how this helped my Wifi issue, I figured it would help others having the same issues.
After reading the posting rules, I'd looked for a simliar thread before I posted. All other the Evo 4G LTE forum all listed questions but not a fix.
Hope this is helpful to some one.
Thanks.
Interesting fix with the coin method.
We talked about it here briefly, but the results were not consistent:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1710905
I tied this. Saw 4 pairs of contacts. One pair had a contact sitting very low. No way it was making good contact with cover. My WiFi has not been a problem - it was the bluetooth device. Hopefully this will help.
evoltesj said:
Hi all. This is my first post and would like to thank the many posters and helpful threads I've read while going through my many previous phones.
After hours and hours of trying to figure out why I've been having Wifi issues, I came across a thread on XDA that helped me find a couple of simple fixes. I had to rule out the issue being with my Wifi router since all of my other electronic devices that used Wifi all worked. It had to be the phone. That and the latest software update never fixed the issue.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1688538
First off, a big Thank You to "bigoliver" across the pond who posted the :"Hardware Fault, Wifi Antenna Fault" thread in the HTC One X forum. I'll thank him here since I could not find the "thank you" button on the thread. Sorry, still a newbie.
Anyhow, after reading the thread and follwing the many helpful links in the post, I figure the probelm could be the same seeing how the Sprint version was not that mcuh different other than the Sprint only changes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-QrMgSvna4
After performing the "squeeze test" as noted in the One X thread and Youtube video above, I noticed the same issue with the EVO LTE. Seems like the springs for the Wifi and BT antennas were good or enough contact with the antenna on the inside of the back case. This can be done with the Wifi Analyxer app. by simply putting pressure on the screen and back cover between the camera and volume rockers, you would notice the Wifi signal increase or decrease as your remove pressure in that area. This is where the antenna springs make conact with the antenna just inside the back cover.
The few video's I found on Youtube showed a few ways to fix the issue. One was having to solder a few contact to the Wifi and BT antenna springs. This seemed a bit dangerous since the user had to take apart the screen to get access to the spring location and back cover. Seeing how the Sprint version had the simple back cover that allowed access to the antenna springs, I figured I give it a try without soldering.
http://www.techrepublic.com/photos/...=11&tag=siu-container;thumbnail-view-selector
The picture above shows the EVO LTE front facing down with teh back cover off. With the phone facing down, you will see the two antenna springs pointing to the left by the volume rockers and just above the kickstand. If you look at the inside of the back cover, you will see the yellow antennas. If you align the cover as if your were putting the cover back, you will see the two antenna contact points. This is where the Wifi and BT antenna contacts are found.
All that I had to do was pretty simple. I took a tiny flat head screw driver to gently lift the two antenna springs up. Just enough to give a better contact to the antenna with the cover closed.
Once the back cover was back in place, the Wifi analyzer showed the Wifi signal to immediately increase. The Wifi signal was as strong if not stronger that my previous Evo 3D. I even noticed Wifi hot spots around me that I never saw before. This also helped the BT seing how the antennas are located at the same spot.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsUs2IVEU-c
The other simple fix I found above seemed a bit tacky but worked. The user placed a small coin underneath the phone cover in the area where the the springs contacted the antenna on the back cover. I tried this also and it worked. Just didn't dig the sight of the coin beneath the cover.
Seeing how this helped my Wifi issue, I figured it would help others having the same issues.
After reading the posting rules, I'd looked for a simliar thread before I posted. All other the Evo 4G LTE forum all listed questions but not a fix.
Hope this is helpful to some one.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems like the architecture is slightly different with the EVO as this hasn't been an issue that I know of. This seems specific to a faulty cell you have but thanks for the write up and details.
Sent from my EVO using xda app-developers app
I've had issues on both stock and aosp roms with Wi-Fi connections bouncing up and down. I'll have to give this a try, thanks!
Be extremely careful when bending the antenna springs because it's very easy to break them.
Sent from my Inspire 4G using Tapatalk 2
still dont think this is an issue with our phones tbh...if it is, its unrelated to the OneX ones....hardware/shell's are different b/w the two....
regardless if you show it somehow.....take the crap in and swap the thing out!
So sick of watching WiFi come and go.. I'm rooted and with " WiFi fix " in the Rom I flash still same crap to point I just want my good ole og EVO back what a good solid phone that was
Sent from my EVO using xda premium
So i took my case off and i had NO and i mean NO wifi. I pressed by the volume area, and it shot to full wifi...... then i took case cover off and tried a coin, it still worked.
Good job on your first post!
leo72793 said:
So i took my case off and i had NO and i mean NO wifi. I pressed by the volume area, and it shot to full wifi...... then i took case cover off and tried a coin, it still worked.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you need to put a coin in your cell, you should probably take it back for warranty replacement as that doesn't seem to be the norm, honestly. Just my opinion, either way, glad that worked for the time being.
Sent from my GT-P7510 using xda app-developers app
An alternative solution would be to put a piece of cardboard, just anything to keep it propped up. I advise against making it too thick though, it still needs room to flex.
Sent from my Inspire 4G using Tapatalk 2
Using a coin could potentially be bad. I'd use a piece of paper or cardboard myself. Shorting out a circuit in your phone could cause more issues. I'm saying this because the coin is going to touch more than just antennas simply from its size compared to the phone internals.
Ask me about my ability to annoy complete strangers!
Hi there,
as i wrote in the Rainbow Mod for Lumia 800 thread, i'll try to restore DLOAD, update to latest FW, and restore Qualcomm (all with ATF Testpoint) again, that i can give you updated files on Partition 3 of the phone, that the latest rainbow mod build will be working on all phones...
But it seemed that i had a pretty shaky hand, when i was soldering my device, that i "destroyed" a component.
First, it was still fitting, but a little "twistet" as you can see on the pictures attached.
I checked if the phone is still working, and it did, except the "light sensor" which turns off the display when making a call... I can now cancel the call with my ear accidently
I realised an extreme heat and battery consumption when making a call... but maybe it just seems so, because i'm looking for "mistakes" because of the broken component...
Then, because of this, i disassembled my phone again, to check the component... and i just touched it a little bit, and now it fell off...
The component i'm talking about is called "L1605" in the schematics plan, so it should be a "coil" (hope this is correct, as English isn't my native lang...)
Of course, because it "fell off", i don't know how it was placed before. Does a coil have a "polarity", i mean "+" or "-" ? or can i just solder it back onto the mainboard?
i hope you can help me
cheers
hi there,
i searched again and found out, that the "L1605" is an "27nH_0402". In the schematics plan it's part of the "reciever", as you can see in the image attached.
Can you tell me if this coil is important? It "just" goes to GND, so maybe it would be enough to just connect the to pins (were the coil was placed) with some solder ?
It also seems to be part of "FM & GND", so maybe it's just important for FM Radio? I don't use this anyway...
pls help!
i guess it has no polarity...but if u could upload a more detailed picture maybe i can see it clearly..
or search for ( as u can see the black component which has a white sign near the two condensator - it has polarity ) signs, i mean +, or a little colored circle on the component, or some cut-off and if it has one of these it has polarity.
what kind of paste did u use for the soldering? leadless or pb? it does matter.
ps : L means Inductor
It's a simple inductor. You can just solder it back in. It has no polarity.
Do not shorten the contacts. The circuit will probably behave bad.
hi there,
can you recommend me any "special" hardware?
With links would be great!
I only have an ordinary soldering-iron, whrere the tip is 3 times larger then the component
cheers
Here is some of the equipment I use for such a fix:
* Weller WES51 soldering station
* Weller ETU soldering iron fine tip
* curved fine tip tweezers
* straight tip dissection probe
* 20x stereo microscope
* solder
The WES51 soldering iron is available for under US $100 online (Amazon and elsewhere) with a variety of replacement tips available for about US $5 each, and I recommend it if you will be doing much soldering. Otherwise, you can probably find a cheaper one with a fine tip, but without temperature control. When soldering and desoldering small two contact components such as your broken inductor, the best method I've found is to use a second soldering iron so you can melt the solder on both the pads at the same time. Small components are hard to handle, so tweezers and a long sharp needle / dissection tip are very helpful. It's hard to see what you are doing at that scale, so a stereo microscope is almost mandatory. AmScope has some cheap microscopes that are adequate for this purpose, or you can find a fancier used one on eBay. My only complaints with the AmScope microscope I have is that the depth of field is somewhat shallow and I need to get my face closer to the work area than I would like. You can use and lead/tin alloy or lead-free solder designed for electronics use to do a fix like this. Lead / tin alloy solder melts at a lower temperature and is much easier to work with than lead-free solder but may not be as easily available in some countries.
I can't tell for sure without a bill of materials for the phone, but based on what you've said it seems like the replacement part is a 27 nH air core inductor 0402 size such as Murata LQW15AN27NJ00D, which is easily available through Digi-Key and possibly other online electronics component vendors.
Just before Christmas my P9000 stopped making sounds, after various checks I figured the loud speaker had packed up so ordered one off eBay.
The speaker is very simple to replace, but I did notice that there is a difference between the original and the new one. The original has two electrical contacts, the new one doesn't. They must be there for a reason, does any one know what they are for?
As far as I can tell everything works now, including sound. I have found one on eBay that does have these contacts, so may buy that anyway as it's not expensive.
I managed to split the module in half, there looked like something in there whilst opening it, but once open there was nothing. Although I did go downstairs before I fully opened it so it is possible something fell out and I lost it, but there are no wires from the contacts.
Actually on closer inspection it is a sticky label on the outside of the module with just some copper tracks, doesn't appear to be any any electronics. If I'd realised before I could have carefully peeled it off and attached it to the new part.
that's an antenna
The paper looking thing with copper contacts is simply an antenna my dude. Pretty sure that one's for wifi as the line for wifi runs down that side of the screen and connects to the board right beside it. Can't be certain without a closer look though because the wiring for the board is buried under the surface.
here's all of the antenni in the thing
Meant to follow this up ages ago, whatever its for its not the wi-fi as both 2.4Ghz & 5Ghz still works fine, in fact I haven't noticed any loss of functionality.
Hi guys. I've been working on a RN2 for a while now and something has been bothering me.
BACKGROUND
___
Basically, it was a side phone I kept in emergency but as you know siblings who can't keep stuff safe, I ended up lending it to him (after having it broken by my other sibling and having to change the screen) and he ALSO broke it, so I changed it again.
___
Now, my problem is the following:
When I was working on the screen, I noticed it wouldn't turn on again, so, after buying aforementioned screen, I placed it and it still didn't turn on. When I tried the heat measuring, I noticed it was heating around the area where you plug the flex cable (black cable with 2 identical plugs that connects the charge module (which I also changed) and the motherboard. The heat is on the side of the MB. I tried to switch the plug backwards but it doesn't work either (and doesn't fit as it is backwards). I bought another flex cable (Theseus' boat much) and it still heated up. So it finally comes to the fact that the issue is in the MB. (I guess ?) Thing is, I don't know what exactly. Does anyone have any idea?
Thanks in advance, I've been on this for a few months now (working it when I have time).
All you can do is look visible damage like a cracked solder joint.
BGA chipsets solder joints can't be examined because they are underneath of them.
Any impact great enough to damage the display or frame could damage the mobo.
Examine your work. Are ground pathways present especially if the phone is "open"?
Look for damaged ribbon cable and connector pins. Try disconnecting/reconnecting the battery (hard reboot).
blackhawk said:
All you can do is look visible damage like a cracked solder joint.
BGA chipsets solder joints can't be examined because they are underneath of them.
Any impact great enough to damage the display or frame could damage the mobo.
Examine your work. Are ground pathways present especially if the phone is "open"?
Look for damaged ribbon cable and connector pins. Try disconnecting/reconnecting the battery (hard reboot).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HI, thanks so much for the quick reply! Unfortunately, I didn't see anything. I might come back to it with a better lens tomorrow for the week end. Would it be necessary to post a picture or two here tomorrow, to have a more professional opinion?
Thanks!
Iliassine said:
HI, thanks so much for the quick reply! Unfortunately, I didn't see anything. I might come back to it with a better lens tomorrow for the week end. Would it be necessary to post a picture or two here tomorrow, to have a more professional opinion?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome.
I'm afraid though that I contributed little to your cause...
You can try gently flexing the pcb and pressing on components with a pencil, eraser end to try to localize the trouble. The mobo is likely toast though if that's the cause. Mobo diagnostics just aren't available except at the manufacturer's level. Even then most repairs require a hot air station and a high level skillset to execute successfully. A few 3rd party shops probably rework them if there's high enough demand.
Always use a good case to protect internal components as well as the display and frame.
blackhawk said:
You're welcome.
I'm afraid though that I contributed little to your cause...
You can try gently flexing the pcb and pressing on components with a pencil, eraser end to try to localize the trouble. The mobo is likely toast though if that's the cause. Mobo diagnostics just aren't available except at the manufacturer's level. Even then most repairs require a hot air station and a high level skillset to execute successfully. A few 3rd party shops probably rework them if there's high enough demand.
Always use a good case to protect internal components as well as the display and frame.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh no, you did great! You gave me probably more information than I found the last few months! I will try the eraser thing, maybe I'll have some luck. I didn't really touch the board unless the un clip removal of components bands. I will take it down and see if this is what is going on! Thank you. I will keep the thread up to see if someone else has ideas and keep you updated!
Examine the mobo under an excellent high lumen point light source and use optical aids. Stereoscopic ones are best for this. Examine at different angles to look for solder cracks. They tend to be difficult to spot.
Remember out of circuit assemblies like the mobo are sensitive to ESD damage. Use a bare wood surface if no ESD mat/wrist strap are available. Raise room humidity to at least 50%.
Wear cotton not wool or synthetics.
Discharging yourself directly to an earth ground immediately before handling it helps. Nearly every object can retain a static charge to one degree or another even paper. Humidity helps to dissipate it once present but almost any material movement/friction can generate it.