It seems like the camcorder is much higher quality, seems odd, since it's coming from the same lens. Even just switching between the two, the camcorder doesn't have as much viewing angle, and everything seems much sharper.
Anyone else notice this?
I have noticed it.
Wider angle = more in the picture = lower quality.
It's the same 5mp camera for both the camcorder and camera but since the camera has a wider viewing angle, more is in the picture at once and it decreases the relative resolution.
Unsure how it has a wider viewing angle, it is the same hardware.
My camcorder video always comes out looking nicer than my photos, even after I lower the resolution on the photos to 1280x720 after the picture is taken. The camera should natively look nicer on the small screen, since it's a larger resolution snapshot.
You probably just aren't holding the phone as still as you think you are. Try resting it on something stable when you are taking pictures if possible. Also, make sure you are holding down the shutter button to focus before you let go.
Done this, camera appears more blurry on the display even before taking a picture. Camcorder appears much more sharp and vivid.
knigitz said:
Unsure how it has a wider viewing angle, it is the same hardware.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The camera does not have a fixed lens, it can focus and zoom. When the camera is being used, the lens is at it's widest angle possible. Since the camcorder would not be able to process that wide of a video fast enough in 720p, the lens has a shorter viewing angle (aka wider focal length).
I'm big in photography so I'm speaking from knowledge of cameras and it may or may not be the same on cell hpones...but I'm pretty sure it is.
spitefulcheerio said:
The camera does not have a fixed lens, it can focus and zoom. When the camera is being used, the lens is at it's widest angle possible. Since the camcorder would not be able to process that wide of a video fast enough in 720p, the lens has a shorter viewing angle (aka wider focal length).
I'm big in photography so I'm speaking from knowledge of cameras and it may or may not be the same on cell hpones...but I'm pretty sure it is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Partially correct, the camera physically moves to focus, but it's not changing the viewing angle. http://www.newscaletech.com/phone_camera.html
The resolution is changed within the app, it just crops the image. Camcorder is just likely sampling at a higher rate so there's less noise, and the stock camera app on the atrix is terrible.
spitefulcheerio said:
The camera does not have a fixed lens, it can focus and zoom. When the camera is being used, the lens is at it's widest angle possible. Since the camcorder would not be able to process that wide of a video fast enough in 720p, the lens has a shorter viewing angle (aka wider focal length).
I'm big in photography so I'm speaking from knowledge of cameras and it may or may not be the same on cell hpones...but I'm pretty sure it is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The term "fixed lens" is ambiguous, since it doesn't specify which aspect is "fixed."
The Atrix camera module has a fixed focal length lens (i.e. not a zoom lens), but it is not a fixed focus lens (i.e. it has variable focus, in this case autofocus). The "zoom" function is just digital zoom, electronically cropping the image.
In video capture mode, the camera is cropping a section of the sensor, rather than using its full area as in still camera mode. (This increases the apparent focal length of the lens, but it's not actually changing the optics.) The video mode probably does this so that the resolution in the portion of the sensor used is a regular multiple of the video capture resolution, which can greatly simplify the image processing requirements.
Regarding the OP's original question, the viewfinder image appears sharper in video capture mode, but if you actually capture still and video images of the same scene, the still images are sharper. The better looking viewfinder in video mode is probably a result of the same reason they only use a cropped section of the sensor. It's like if you view an image in Photoshop at 25% size, it looks great because it's easy to scale the pixels that way, but if you view it at some usual magnification like 43%, it looks fuzzy.
Related
I have been very disappointed with the Z Ultra camera, when I'm about to take a photo it looks gorgeous on the phone screen but then it looks crappy after the shot is taken.
There is a big loss of detail, it's almost if some sort of oil paint effect was applied to the photos on.
Today I noticed that the videos have much better image quality than the photos, I can pause a video and see how beautiful the image looks compared to regular shots.
I used to own a T2 Ultra and it had an excellent depth of field which allow me to shoot beautiful macros, the Z ultra has a bright lens on the specs but I can't get the same quality on the macros.
Overall it seems that the camera driver is messing around with the sharpness on the still pictures and screwing up something, is the camera driver source code available from the AOSP project?
I tried many, many other apps but it doesn't help much other than adding post processing tricks on top of the pictures, the problem seems to lie on the camera driver.
Thanks
use a 3rd party camera app that allows you to set the ISO abd set that at 50 or 100 at max. The image will be better, but not perfect. The underlying processor is poor in the ZU
blueether said:
use a 3rd party camera app that allows you to set the ISO abd set that at 50 or 100 at max. The image will be better, but not perfect. The underlying processor is poor in the ZU
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I felt that there could be some hope for the camera if the driver could be improved, the specs of the image sensor seem to be not bad compared to it's "brother" sensors: here.
I still believe that the driver is applying some heavy sharpening on the image and not doing a good job as far as of contrast/dynamic range as well as encoding raw image to JPEG inefficiently thus delivering washed out pictures.
IMX134 8 M Exmor RS sensor.
1.12μm pixel size.
IU134F9-Z lens.
f/2.4 aperture.
28mm aperture.
Thought this relevant since the nexus 5x has the same camera.
This is a comparison to the iphone 6...looks pretty impressive
https://www.reddit.com/r/Android/comments/3ogvrg/nexus_6p_vs_iphone_6_low_light_photos/
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk 2
It looks AMAZING!
Woah - impressive. In fact, I dont think I have ever seen such a definitive improvement with anyone doing a camera side by side comparison as this. Sheesh! I wqonder how much of that is HDR trickery?
I doubt the Nexus 5x will do as well without image stabilization. Unless these were taken on a tripod. Apparently the 810 can handle electronic image stabilization but the 808 processor can't.
http://www.androidpolice.com/2015/0...-because-the-snapdragon-808-isnt-fast-enough/
Both have some pretty ugly digital noise in the shadows, but you can see the effect of the larger pixels in the clarity of the detail. In the last pair of photos I see some chromatic aberration in the Nexus that's not there in the Apple, but the shadow detail is still better.
Anyone regret getting the 5x over the 6p now?
SysAdmNj said:
Anyone regret getting the 5x over the 6p now?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no, the 6p is too big, I can deal without EIS
danthepan124 said:
no, the 6p is too big, I can deal without EIS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Me either. 6P is too big for me too
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tapatalk
SysAdmNj said:
Anyone regret getting the 5x over the 6p now?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Show me the 5x night camera samples and I will tell you.
Seriously speaking, the camera for these types of shots should be very close to the same for 5x and 6p
Hi
Evo_Shift said:
I doubt the Nexus 5x will do as well without image stabilization. Unless these were taken on a tripod. Apparently the 810 can handle electronic image stabilization but the 808 processor can't.
http://www.androidpolice.com/2015/0...-because-the-snapdragon-808-isnt-fast-enough/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't do EIS when taking a photograph, it only works on video where each frame can be zoomed in and cropped to match up the position of points in the previous frame. EIS on video doesn't remove blur on each individual frame either due to motion, that will still be there resulting in a lowering of overall captured detail, but each frame lines up better with the ones either side resulting in less visible shake making it easier to watch.
What the 6P is likely doing with pictures is taking several in quick succession, then picking the best one based on contrast detection which is easily done in software, and the picture with the most contrast is the best out of the bunch. This helps, it isn't OIS of course, but you get the picture with the least blurring due to motion or shaky hands, this assumes you do manage to capture a shake free photo in the bunch taken of course.
To be fair, OIS in tiny smart phone camera modules struggles to be effective, as there is a limit to how much movement those tiny optics can make and how many axis of movement they can compensate for.
Regards
Phil
PhilipL said:
Hi
You can't do EIS when taking a photograph, it only works on video where each frame can be zoomed in and cropped to match up the position of points in the previous frame. EIS on video doesn't remove blur on each individual frame either due to motion, that will still be there resulting in a lowering of overall captured detail, but each frame lines up better with the ones either side resulting in less visible shake making it easier to watch.
What the 6P is likely doing with pictures is taking several in quick succession, then picking the best one based on contrast detection which is easily done in software, and the picture with the most contrast is the best out of the bunch. This helps, it isn't OIS of course, but you get the picture with the least blurring due to motion or shaky hands, this assumes you do manage to capture a shake free photo in the bunch taken of course.
To be fair, OIS in tiny smart phone camera modules struggles to be effective, as there is a limit to how much movement those tiny optics can make and how many axis of movement they can compensate for.
Regards
Phil
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info on EIS. I've been wondering how it works. The camera/software picking the best pick is called "lucky shot" internally and I think both phones have it, if I read the AMA correctly. I understand that the phone camera module is tiny, but since it has enlarged pixels, and a camera hump which makes it seem that the module is bigger than normal, perhaps OIS isn't needed as much?
SysAdmNj said:
Anyone regret getting the 5x over the 6p now?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, but not because of the camera! I had to cancel my 6P order because monies. 5X a compromise in getting a Nexus but I would have enjoyed the more premium phone a lot more. **** happens. Smaller size is a bonus, though.
Hi
0.0 said:
Thanks for the info on EIS. I've been wondering how it works. The camera/software picking the best pick is called "lucky shot" internally and I think both phones have it, if I read the AMA correctly. I understand that the phone camera module is tiny, but since it has enlarged pixels, and a camera hump which makes it seem that the module is bigger than normal, perhaps OIS isn't needed as much?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's all down to shutter speed really, the faster the shutter speed the less likely any camera shake is noticeable. Generally a shutter speed of 1/30th to 1/60th sec is considered the slowest speed a camera can be handheld reliably without camera shake ruining too many pictures with typical lenses. A wider angle lens can go slower in shutter speed than a zoom lens where avoiding camera shake is concerned. This is because when you are zoomed in, a small tremor from our hands is amplified to be a much bigger movement, something you will notice if using binoculars. So smart phone cameras have an advantage already as they are pretty wide angle lenses.
Outdoors in the daytime shutter speeds are pretty high, high enough that OIS is probably pointless and having no benefit for photography on smartphone cameras. It's still important for video in daylight, that is because video is recording over time, and not a split second instance that freezes the action like a photo with a fast shutter speed.
In dark situations, the larger pixels of the new Nexus are more sensitive, this means the gain can be turned up higher without destroying the picture with noise, resulting in the ability to speed up the shutter speed. This can mean an indoor scene that might need 1/30th second shutter on another camera, on the new Nexus it can be faster and might be set at 1/60th of second, so resisting camera shake. Of course go a bit darker, the new Nexus needs 1/30th of a second now, another camera might need 1/15th second but that has OIS, so shake becomes evident on the Nexus, but is corrected on the other camera. So the advantages of larger pixels only help in a very specific situation, i.e. they aren't making that big a difference.
The above ignores the effect of the flash of course, add in the flash and that helps freeze action anyway plus allows faster shutter speeds.
I think the main difference not having OIS will make is when you are in poor light, perhaps indoors, and want to take a picture close up of something, for example a document to "scan to Google drive" or a 2D barcode, the close up nature is like being zoomed in so blur becomes more evident.
Regards
Phil
PhilipL said:
In dark situations, the larger pixels of the new Nexus are more sensitive, this means the gain can be turned up higher without destroying the picture with noise, resulting in the ability to speed up the shutter speed. This can mean an indoor scene that might need 1/30th second shutter on another camera, on the new Nexus it can be faster and might be set at 1/60th of second, so resisting camera shake. Of course go a bit darker, the new Nexus needs 1/30th of a second now, another camera might need 1/15th second but that has OIS, so shake becomes evident on the Nexus, but is corrected on the other camera. So the advantages of larger pixels only help in a very specific situation, i.e. they aren't making that big a difference.
I think the main difference not having OIS will make is when you are in poor light, perhaps indoors, and want to take a picture close up of something, for example a document to "scan to Google drive" or a 2D barcode, the close up nature is like being zoomed in so blur becomes more evident.
Regards
Phil
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the informative post! I enjoyed reading it.
I was informed that tucking in your elbows to your body when taking a photo or video can help a bit in stabilization. How effective is that? Any other stabilization tips since OIS is gone?
Sent from my Nexus 5
There's already a picture posting thread here....
http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-6p/general/post-pictures-nexus-6p-t3213937
One is all we need. :good:
Thread closed.
Darth
Forum Moderator
As you probably already know, there is more than one way to take close-up pictures with your P30 Pro. You can use the dedicated Super Macro mode (found under More in your stock camera app) or manually set the focus to macro in Pro mode. However, two years of experience have taught me that by far the best way to take really crisp macro shots with my phone is not an obvious one. In fact, I bet you have never even tried it.
You see, our phone comes with 2 primary lenses, each with its own sensor. The main lens boasts a 40MP sensor, making it the default choice for your everyday shots, while the wide secondary lens has a 20MP sensor, which makes it sound a little underwhelming. However, when it comes to macro photography, the wide lens has one major advantage over its big brother - a much shorter minimum focus distance. This allows you to bring the lens much closer to your subject before the image becomes blurry. So to take superior close-up shots with your P30 Pro, all you have to do is switch to the wide lens by selecting the Wide picture mode in the camera app. You can combine this with the dedicated HDR mode (found under More in your stock camera app) to eliminate any unwanted shadows. However, be aware that at such close proximity to the subject the autofocus can no longer be relied on. So manual focusing is strongly recommended.
Below are some sample pictures taken by each lens at their minimum focus distance.
40MP Primary Lens at minimum focus distance:
https://ibb.co/61kjmDQ
40MP Primary Lens, Closer Look:
https://ibb.co/ftpmCnx
20MP Secondary (Wide) Lens at minimum focus distance:
https://ibb.co/f4J7rCD
20MP Secondary (Wide) Lens, Closer Look:
https://ibb.co/dktkjqH
As you can see, the wide lens was able to capture far superior detail at minimum focusing distance compared to the 40MP shot. In real life application this means less cropping and more pictures like these:
https://ibb.co/cTn6W2J
https://ibb.co/1TtJHyz
https://ibb.co/Qb8PfNh
Have fun with your Macro shots!
That's really informative, and the difference in detail in your pics is quite stark. I'll try your suggestions for myself.
Thanks
That last pic is stunning!
I would add something to this post : shoot in RAW. You'll need to post-process the pictures, but the results are way much better regarding color, sharpness and lighting than what the auto mode can provide !
Quick comparison :
Auto mode :
https://ibb.co/QfzW5F3
RAW file manually edited :
https://ibb.co/bmWmmLq
I can assure you this flower wasn't anywhere near pink !
All the colours are different between those two pics, not just the flower. What does post-processing involve?
It's actually up to you. The RAW file only offers you a lot more freedom, with greater dynamic range and sharpness than a jpg file. You can crop and still get a perfectly sharp picture, you can play with lighting, shadows, colors ... to get exactly what you want.
In my case, a better quality and a more realistic / natural look. Most of the time, I get oversaturated pictures, with an exaggerated HDR effect and lack of detail using the auto mode (and I'm not only talking about macrophotography).
Regarding this specific RAW picture, I cropped and increased saturation and texture using Photoshop. The whole process took no more than ten minutes.
To give you an idea, here is what it looks like unedited : https://ibb.co/3mVKFbX
poulos971 said:
It's actually up to you. The RAW file only offers you a lot more freedom, with greater dynamic range and sharpness than a jpg file. You can crop and still get a perfectly sharp picture, you can play with lighting, shadows, colors ... to get exactly what you want.
In my case, a better quality and a more realistic / natural look. Most of the time, I get oversaturated pictures, with an exaggerated HDR effect and lack of detail using the auto mode (and I'm not only talking about macrophotography).
Regarding this specific RAW picture, I cropped and increased saturation and texture using Photoshop. The whole process took no more than ten minutes.
To give you an idea, here is what it looks like unedited : https://ibb.co/3mVKFbX
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do enjoy playing with RAW. However, as I only ever post my pictures on social media where their quality gets butchered by the site's own compression engine, I find it difficult to justify the time investment in RAW editing. So I stick to JPEG format in Pro mode with master AI disabled.
i can't see "wide picture "in camera app for 20mp lens??cancel that
tonybhoy said:
i can't see "wide picture "in camera app for 20mp lens??cancel that
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need to be in Pro mode with resolution set to 10MP. Don't ask me why. Ask our friends at Huawei =)
https://ibb.co/7jcRFFc
So I took Paulos971's suggestion and combined the wide lens macro with RAW. I have to say - I am not disappointed. Below are the edited versions of the same image taken simultaneously in RAW and JPEG.
Image saved as JPEG:
https://ibb.co/nmQcXLk
Image saved as RAW (.DNG):
https://ibb.co/cTn6W2J
koi8ru said:
You need to be in Pro mode with resolution set to 10MP. Don't ask me why. Ask our friends at Huawei =)
https://ibb.co/7jcRFFc
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i just went to photo mode and slid slider down to wide,never went to pro
koi8ru said:
So I took Paulos971's suggestion and combined the wide lens macro with RAW. I have to say - I am not disappointed. Below are the edited versions of the same image taken simultaneously in RAW and JPEG.
Image saved as JPEG:
https://ibb.co/nmQcXLk
Image saved as RAW (.DNG):
https://ibb.co/cTn6W2J
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, amazing picture ! :good:
Yeah editing takes some time indeed, but I really think it's worth it
guys, go see my page, i have a lot of photos taken by my P30 Pro. You will see a lot of macro photography
My name on instagram is Titibenze
poulos971 said:
I would add something to this post : shoot in RAW. You'll need to post-process the pictures, but the results are way much better regarding color, sharpness and lighting than what the auto mode can provide !
Quick comparison :
Auto mode :
https://ibb.co/QfzW5F3
RAW file manually edited :
https://ibb.co/bmWmmLq
I can assure you this flower wasn't anywhere near pink !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried many times to use RAW, but it works only at full res of 40mp an noise is incredibly hight, even with good light. Ho do yout set for those 2 example shot??
Leoxur said:
I tried many times to use RAW, but it works only at full res of 40mp an noise is incredibly hight, even with good light. Ho do yout set for those 2 example shot??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, the RAW file will always be a full resolution picture (i. e. 40mp using the main camera, 20mp on the ultrawide and 8mp on the telephoto).
To avoid noise, you must shoot at the lowest possible ISO setting ! It also depends on the sensor used (as the main one is bigger, it produces less noisy pictures than the ultrawide / telephoto).
This example picture was shot in 1/500s at 50 ISO using the ultrawide camera.
Hello there, this is dedicated to all my photographers and videographers of LG G8x.
First things first, no matter what how many times you complaint them the problem is not fixable through software updates because front camera have fixed focus.
So i think there is no other option than this.
Case 1: (Professional phone photographers)
Guys if you are carrying a 35mm or 50mm then mount it to the front camera and zooming 1.5x is the solution for shooting 4:3 aspect ratios and only 1.2x zoom for 9:16 or higher aspect ratios.
+ Get lot of blur or shallow depth of field.
+ Can use Canon or Nikon lenses to achieve high end quality. Plus features if your lens have OIS, UV protection etc.
- Weight is a problem.
- Zooming 1.5x makes photo to loose its quality a little bit (especially in nights).
Case 2: (Cheap solution)
This is an inexpensive solution, get yourself a wide angle lens for under 200 rupees for indians and under 2 US dollars.
Buy that 3 in one lens and use the wide angle and zoom 1.2x for 4:3 aspect ratio and 1.1x for 9:16 or higher aspect ratios.
+ Very Cheap
+ Light Weight
+ Less zoom means lesser quality reduction
- No quality lenses are used, little bit lesser color reproduction.
Buy anywhere online by typing 3 in 1 lenses for phone.
Hope this would help you out, if helps don't say thanks but help me find a solution to record 1080p 240 fps video with zooming (stock camera doesn't allow zooming in that setting)
Filmic pro is not working for slow motion .
Moment pro camera doesn't work for slow motion.
Google Camera doesn't record slow motion.
Suggest me a way to do this.
Thank you for all the patience.
Arvindrockz79 said:
Hello there, this is dedicated to all my photographers and videographers of LG G8x.
First things first, no matter what how many times you complaint them the problem is not fixable through software updates because front camera have fixed focus.
So i think there is no other option than this.
Case 1: (Professional phone photographers)
Guys if you are carrying a 35mm or 50mm then mount it to the front camera and zooming 1.5x is the solution for shooting 4:3 aspect ratios and only 1.2x zoom for 9:16 or higher aspect ratios.
+ Get lot of blur or shallow depth of field.
+ Can use Canon or Nikon lenses to achieve high end quality. Plus features if your lens have OIS, UV protection etc.
- Weight is a problem.
- Zooming 1.5x makes photo to loose its quality a little bit (especially in nights).
Case 2: (Cheap solution)
This is an inexpensive solution, get yourself a wide angle lens for under 200 rupees for indians and under 2 US dollars.
Buy that 3 in one lens and use the wide angle and zoom 1.2x for 4:3 aspect ratio and 1.1x for 9:16 or higher aspect ratios.
+ Very Cheap
+ Light Weight
+ Less zoom means lesser quality reduction
- No quality lenses are used, little bit lesser color reproduction.
Buy anywhere online by typing 3 in 1 lenses for phone.
Hope this would help you out, if helps don't say thanks but help me find a solution to record 1080p 240 fps video with zooming (stock camera doesn't allow zooming in that setting)
Filmic pro is not working for slow motion .
Moment pro camera doesn't work for slow motion.
Google Camera doesn't record slow motion.
Suggest me a way to do this.
Thank you for all the patience.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
why you actualy need to zoom ,just crope the video after recording done ,using a video editor.
our device didn't have an optical zoom even in photo mode if we zoom 8x it just uses its digital zoom.
you just click a pic at 8x and same pic at 1x then you crop the 1x pic to 8x then compare 8x pic vs croped pic. result will be same:fingers-crossed:
give me a like, i gave you a solution with best explanation
I appreciate your idea but actually thing is when you film it with no zoom and crop it later, same results i agree. But you won't get the flexibility of knowing what exactly you ate shooting, you can't see the full sized video as a reference while shooting.
1) You barely see the depth.
2) Hard to manage White balance and Exposure.
I do need some other working apps that would support this phone zooming while filming at 1080p 240fps.
Tried many of the popular apps
Google Camera, Filmic Pro, Moment pro camera, Proshot, Hedge camera 2, (MiUi 11 Camera, Oneplus Camera- Stock).
Arvindrockz79 said:
I appreciate your idea but actually thing is when you film it with no zoom and crop it later, same results i agree. But you won't get the flexibility of knowing what exactly you ate shooting, you can't see the full sized video as a reference while shooting.
1) You barely see the depth.
2) Hard to manage White balance and Exposure.
I do need some other working apps that would support this phone zooming while filming at 1080p 240fps.
Tried many of the popular apps
Google Camera, Filmic Pro, Moment pro camera, Proshot, Hedge camera 2, (MiUi 11 Camera, Oneplus Camera- Stock).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Filimic pro have the support of zooming in(@240fps) i tried it working:laugh:
I cannot zoom in if the rear camera's resolution is set to 48MP, which seriously limits it usability.
While zooming is allowed at 12MP, it's too weird to have lower resolution than the front camera (16MP).
takutekato2 said:
I cannot zoom in if the rear camera's resolution is set to 48MP, which seriously limits it usability.
While zooming is allowed at 12MP, it's too weird to have lower resolution than the front camera (16MP).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nah, this is hardware-level stuff, you can't zoom in with 48MP.
Apparently, they kept the 48MP sensor separate from the 12/16MP one. The whole pattern can also be seen in other Nokia phones, such as the X10/20.