I can't find any info on this, but it looks like it could be tricky to replace. I cracked my glass by dropping it onto stone, still works OK. You can pick up digitisers pretty cheap on ebay (£20 UK) but does anyone know how to replace? I read that they can be glued to the LCD?
Thanks
Google for the fixit website, if someone has done it there will be a tutorial, or you could follow the guide on here to upgrade your sd card....only because you have to take the phone fully apart. You need to check if the lcd is glued or like the iphone 4 resin. If they are a sealed unit you'd be better off getting the lcd/digitizer combo on ebay. trying to separate an lcd from the digitizer is asking for trouble imho.
I have ordered a digitiser, really hope the digitiser is not glued to the LCD, there is a big price difference. I'll let you know how I get on.
I bought a Mozart with wrecked digitizer and also want to repair it. The digitizer is on its way, so in a week i could tell you how difficult or maybe easy it is.
If you are faster, please post your experience.
I found this thread on xda.cn, and it seems that the lcd isnt glued on the digitizer, so lets hope so
hxxp://xxx.xda.cn/newshow.php?snid=2167
EDIT: sorry cantpost links, so must change the x's to t's and w's
I have got my digitiser now, looks brand new. Just need to find the time to replace, might upgrade the SD card at the same time.
Done
I did this with Andy's guide to help: http://lifeinthefastlaneok.wordpres...-7-mozart-sd-card-memory-upgrade/#comment-225
I used this guide to replace my digitiser (the glass) which I smashed. The good news is that the digitiser is not stuck to the LCD at all. I just bought a grade A digitiser off ebay for £20 which was pretty much perfect - glass was perfect with a couple of small marks on the back case, but basically like new.
There were a couple of differences to this guide:
- Had to replace a speaker type thing at the top of the digitiser that was not present on the new one. Came off quite easily, just stuck in.
- Had to remove the USB port of the old case back (if you are replacing that too) but that was just a couple of screws
- You dont have to split the PCB off if doing this, you just take off the black clips to take it apart and then remove the orange ribbon cable, it is a little tricky to get the new one in but OK.
I now have a phone as good as new, I didn't replace the SD at the same time but probably will do at some point when I can stand loosing all my data.
Found time today to replace the digitizer. I also used Andy's videos for instruction. And it's really not that hard. Pretty easy for someones first mobile phone repair.
Well done, I would add for anyone else needing to do this, be very careful not to touch the inside of the digitiser or the LCD when you have it apart! Also have a glasses cloth handy for removing any dust particles just before you put it back together.
I do have one strange thing however - before I had intermittent issues where I could not slide the screen up when locked for 10 seconds or so. No I have a slightly different issue when unlocking - it doesn't always let me press on the right hand 3 numbers on the PIN screen! So it seems the unlocking issue some people have is due to a hardware issue. My digitiser was second hand so I might ask for a replacement, but I can change my pin so that it is not an issue.
My Mozart touch-screen hardly works at all plus my wife's Mozart has a cracked digitizer glass (still working fine).
So silly me I took the plunge and ordered three cheap replacement digitizers via eBay (from Hong Hong). They arrived today and all are s**t useless.
When I opened the box I smelt the rat when I spied the HTC logo on each was blanked out on the outside of the plastic zip-lock bags (with what looked like black felt pen), plus each glass has minor blemishes/scratches. Comparing each with the digitizers I removed from my and my wife's phones, they have a different design of ribbon cable conductor layout plus there are indications the plastic moulding isn't as well finished in a couple of places. Either these are factory rejects or knock-off copies. Lesson learnt :-(
Anyway, I now need to buy genuine HTC parts.
Any pointers toward reliable sources appreciated, thanks.
KJ
I have bought some off ebay. The problem is that these are almost always from returned Mozart's which may well have been returned due to non responsive screens, which seems to be a very common problem.
I have had 2 off the same chap now, one is OK but not perfect, the other one didnt work at all.
I would just keep returning them until you get one that works.
Sometimes you will find new combined digitiser/LCD's on ebay too, these would be a better bet but cost more.
Can someone who as changed a screen on this phone using Andys guide, please tell me how easy or hard it was, and how long does it take??
And would be grateful if someone could give me a link to the correct digitizer for this phone....
I am in the UK and have been qouted 50 pounds at a phone shop for the to supply and fit screen...
Did you see my post?
There were a couple of differences to this (Andy's) guide:
- Had to replace a speaker type thing at the top of the digitiser that was not present on the new one. Came off quite easily, just stuck in.
- Had to remove the USB port of the old case back (if you are replacing that too) but that was just a couple of screws
- You dont have to split the PCB off if doing this, you just take off the black clips to take it apart and then remove the orange ribbon cable, it is a little tricky to get the new one in but OK.
The most tricky thing for me was getting all the dust off the LCD and the digitsier, as soon as you get it apart things start sticking to it like crazy. Have a clean glasses cloth around.
It takes about an hour on your first go. The main thing is to get the orange ribbon cablle in fully, it can be tricky - you need to get a good grip on it (fold it a little) and push it home quite hard, otherwise you get it all back together and find it doesn't work.
I have had 2 dodgy screens off ebay, £50 sounds OK if it is a brand new original HTC screen.
Or just search for 'htc mozart digitiser' on ebayt there are loads.
hsclater said:
I have bought some off ebay. The problem is that these are almost always from returned Mozart's which may well have been returned due to non responsive screens, which seems to be a very common problem.
I have had 2 off the same chap now, one is OK but not perfect, the other one didnt work at all.
I would just keep returning them until you get one that works.
Sometimes you will find new combined digitiser/LCD's on ebay too, these would be a better bet but cost more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for that. A close look at the ones I bought from china I'm sure now are removed from phones with faulty digitizers, then repackaged as new. One of the three had significant dust and dirt on the inside of the digitiser screen. I've requested a refund via PalPal disputes.
I've ordered some digitizers from ecell in the UK. I'm led to believe by them that these are genuine HTC factory supplied spares.
KJ
I just replaced my 4th screen (1 broke, 2 dodgy).
This one is perfect - as new condition and works perfectly, my last one was not responsive in some situations e.g. lock screen.
This is the one I got (UK)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130498971267?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Of course, your mileage may vary - some are probably good, some not. Replace it, if it doesn't work ask for another, etc.
My new digitizers arrived today from the uk. Horray they are genuine HTC spare parts properly packaged. The downside is they don't include the frame the glass sit in and is adhered to.
So I watched the official HTC Mozart disassembly video on youtube to see how to remove the existing digitizer glass from the frame - got it apart ok after heating the unit to soften the adhesives but it didn't come away entirely cleanly i.e some of the adhesive foam broke away and was left on the underside of the glass.
So... check on eBay and found sellers selling refurbished screen frames ready for a new glass to be attached.
Will update on progress once they arrive.
KJ
just ordered my digitiser today... wish me luck...lol
poolielad said:
just ordered my digitiser today... wish me luck...lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I am now buzzing... have just changed my screen at it works perfect.....
£50 they wanted at the shop...it cost me £13....
Just to let you know how easy this is to do........If I can do it, anyone can..
Did anyone find a reliable supply in the end? I just cracked my digitiser so looking to replace it...
--edit--
Also, how much have others paid? Don't want to be ripped off for some sub-standard part.
Hello everybody,
I m trying to replace the digitiser of a HTC Mozart too.
It is really easy to do, even the part where you have to take off the digitiser from the plastic frame.
But I have an issue, it is the second digitiser I am using ( from the same ebay shop ) and the digitiser is working inverted vertically! Really strange but it is like that.
As the mobile phone is started up, when I push on a left buton, it push on a right button ! On the key board, when I press on "P" it press on "A" ( i m using an Azerty layout, I assume it should be "Q" on your layout ).
It is really anyoing of course.
It is the second screen I received from the Ebay shop and same issue, I don't think the problem come from my side, but I just want to ask to you all if somebody have an idea or the same issue once.
fx.lagwagon said:
Hello everybody,
I m trying to replace the digitiser of a HTC Mozart too.
It is really easy to do, even the part where you have to take off the digitiser from the plastic frame.
But I have an issue, it is the second digitiser I am using ( from the same ebay shop ) and the digitiser is working inverted vertically! Really strange but it is like that.
As the mobile phone is started up, when I push on a left buton, it push on a right button ! On the key board, when I press on "P" it press on "A" ( i m using an Azerty layout, I assume it should be "Q" on your layout ).
It is really anyoing of course.
It is the second screen I received from the Ebay shop and same issue, I don't think the problem come from my side, but I just want to ask to you all if somebody have an idea or the same issue once.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mate, I had the same problem. However it seems no one was able to help me either.
I also purchased a digitizer from Ebay for my Mozart - the exact same inverted issue occurred with me. I wasn't able to find a solution.
I'm in Australia with a T8697 model. The digitizer I received from Ebay had a circle around the windows button at the bottom - This was not on my original screen.
In the end, I purchased a digitizer from an Australian business. Cost double the Ebay digitizer did, so I hope it works... Haven't received it yet, but I'll let you know when I put it in.
What model Mozart do you own?
Related
Hi there!
I didn't put a screen protector on my TD2 -and over time it has become more scratched than expected. I'd like to replace the front display -I guess that is the one called the digitizer, or?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Touch-Screen-Di...wItemQQptZPDA_Accessories?hash=item4837633bd0
What are the chances for getting an original HTC at ebay?
Did anybody do this replacement with success?
Cheers
No one?
check this out too!!!
more expensive and not a word about oem product!!!
So... oem digitizer with just 19$ .... hmmmm! don't know!!!!
Perhaps this guide can help you.
Hopefully it's not permanently attached to the LCD like the ATT Fuze is. I took my Fuze apart and destroyed the LCD while trying to install a new digitizer. Apparently they use some sort of extremely strong glue between the digitizer and LCD...
Hopefully not.. But I think it's only glued to the frame.. I don't really know what kind of glue to use for the new one though...
ren28 said:
Hopefully it's not permanently attached to the LCD like the ATT Fuze is. I took my Fuze apart and destroyed the LCD while trying to install a new digitizer. Apparently they use some sort of extremely strong glue between the digitizer and LCD...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to tell you all that the Digitizer is permanently attached with LCD. I know this because I was drop my D2 and went to service center. They change to front cover (case) which was broken when droped. when I get it back they give me back my old front cover and I notice that the digitizer is stick with over part.....
When I ask the service's counter. They told me that they have to change the new digitizer because it come with whole part.. not saparated.
Sorry for my english....
Hi Guide144, you say that when you got the digitizer back it sticked with the 'over part'. To my ears that sounds like the FRAME and not the LCD? Are you sure that it's also attached to the LCD?
niknik76 said:
Hi Guide144, you say that when you got the digitizer back it sticked with the 'over part'. To my ears that sounds like the FRAME and not the LCD? Are you sure that it's also attached to the LCD?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for lag of my understanding, Yes the digitizer is stick with front frame, not a LCD. In my case, I ask the service to change my front cover because it broke and they change the front cover + digitizer.... because it stick together.
Hope this would clear all out.
Hi guys,
i replaced today the broken digitizer of my topaz.
Got one for $60 from ebay, with a screen (i wasn't sure if it was a screen problem or digitizer so i got both.)
you need to unstick the old one from the housing and attach the new one. i didn't use extra glue/stick , since the old one was left on the casing.
cheers
Thanks mistral82cy! Thanks for sharing -now I feel a little more up to going ahead with the operation
Hi! Could you please tell me how much the service center charged you to get the new cover and digitizer installed?
I've to change mine, as well!
Thanks a lot
I would suggest finding the parts list for the phone and finding out exactly what digitizer is needed then buy one online from somewhere such as e-bay. I did this with my G1 replaced it myself and it worked wonderfully. Research before you buy otherwise you might end up buying the wrong one or a clone which doesnt work as well
I dun it myself, buying one digitizer from ebay, getting the old one out was a little tricky , but appart from that it was easy(and i had to do it again, as i dit not secure it properly and there was dust comming underneath the screen from the sides. Any questions you could ask, but it is pretty straight forward.
pistonripper changed his housing, so he would have also replaced his digitizer, so you might want to check with him
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=572728
If you want to buy one, this would be a good choice
http://cnn.cn/shop/touch-diamond2-digitizer-p-6733.html
replace digitizer on your own!
Hello everyone!
My digitizer broke last week, because i droped my Diamond!
But don't worry I am a rookie in technical things and I managed it to replace my digitizer on my own.
Don't waste money on repair charge from repairshops! Ok... you loose your garantie but the Cellphone is allready old. The new HD2 is already available!
Just buy the digitizerscreen at ebay... i've paid 60 € and then use this manual:
http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/htc-touch-diamond2/
Now it works like before.
Bye Ghostina
HTC Pure Digitizer or LCD
i just got my new AT&T HTC Pure and somehow my screen is cracked. The LCD does not appear to have any bleeding or damage and the touch features work, but I have two cracks from top to bottom on my phone. what are your thoughts. I attached some pictures
darkside896 said:
i just got my new AT&T HTC Pure and somehow my screen is cracked. The LCD does not appear to have any bleeding or damage and the touch features work, but I have two cracks from top to bottom on my phone. what are your thoughts. I attached some pictures
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a bit hard to see on the photos but if its new can you not return it? if not then you need to look closely between the digitizer and the screen and see if the damage is just the top layer or the screen, if it is the top layer then just replace your digitizer!
spammer said:
It is easy to do it, if you need, I can send you the instruction that how to change it to you. You can visit my website --spam-- for this product Touch Screen Digitizer For HTC Touch Diamond 2 II T5353
Hope that it will help you.
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Every single post of yours is a website promotion.
Chill.
Out.
Seriously.
As always this site is a big help. Just ordered the items, and thanks to the guide I'm fairly confident I will pull it off. For me the bottom 2cm's of the screen have shifted about 1cm to the left somehow. The digitizer still works "perfectly" but it's kinda hard to hit the right buttons like that
Hi there,
I searched before posting this, but couldn't find anything for the Atrix...
Just wondering if anyone has seen/made a guide to replace the Glass/digitizer for the Motorola Atrix?
As to why I'm asking:
(If the image links don't work, you can find them as attachments to this post)
I've damaged the plastic around the glass (basically the housing, near the usb port) but I need to remove it from the digitizer...
I bought this: http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=572442&stc=1&d=1303199913
But as the ifixit teardown guide shows...
(http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=572441&stc=1&d=1303199913),
...When you take the phone apart, the glass is one with the housing.. Has anyone done this replacement of the digitizer or housing, if so, can you offer any suggestions, and what you used as adhesive to reattach the digitizer?
I've repaired the iPhone 3Gs and iPhone 4 before, both ranking higher in difficulty on ifixit's site, so I'm guessing the ATRIX should be a lot easier...
Anyways, any helpful tips or any guides would be greatly appreciated. I've already checked Google but no luck...
keithgrobertson said:
Hi there,
I searched before posting this, but couldn't find anything for the Atrix...
Just wondering if anyone has seen/made a guide to replace the Glass/digitizer for the Motorola Atrix?
As to why I'm asking:
(If the image links don't work, you can find them as attachments to this post)
I've damaged the plastic around the glass (basically the housing, near the usb port) but I need to remove it from the digitizer...
I bought this: http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=572442&stc=1&d=1303199913
But as the ifixit teardown guide shows...
(http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=572441&stc=1&d=1303199913),
...When you take the phone apart, the glass is one with the housing.. Has anyone done this replacement of the digitizer or housing, if so, can you offer any suggestions, and what you used as adhesive to reattach the digitizer?
I've repaired the iPhone 3Gs and iPhone 4 before, both ranking higher in difficulty on ifixit's site, so I'm guessing the ATRIX should be a lot easier...
Anyways, any helpful tips or any guides would be greatly appreciated. I've already checked Google but no luck...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try this http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola-Atrix-4G-Teardown/4964/1
Or, this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TbR56jSplRs
Broke my digitizer and did the job myself using the youtube guide above. Just used straight up superglue to glue digitizer to frame. I put a bunch on the top and bottom and very little on the sides.
Amazingly the phone worked when i put it back together... for a while until I screwed up one of the ribbons by opening it a bunch more times. Be extra careful with these, especially the volume/camera ribbon. You can bend it pretty easily trying to slide it back into its slot.
Good luck.
NB: Theres places that will do it for as little as $90 in case you don't want to take the risk.
http://www.ubreakifix.com/
Thanks for posting the youtube link. I can't even quote the post because it involves an external link. The video was vague on details and the quality is crap but it did the trick.
My Arix got under the tires of a car (please dont ask how ) and only the digitizer broke, then i replace it with an OEM digitizer from amazon and now the proximity sensor is malfunctioning (Turns off the screen when im not near it or doesnt turns off when im near it), and there is a line of the screen that doesn't respond to tact. could it be the digitizer that came defective, or maybe it was the installation? oh, the other digitizer was broken and all but the light sensor was working fine and also the other thing. Sorry for my bad grammar.
Metacat said:
My Arix got under the tires of a car (please dont ask how ) and only the digitizer broke, then i replace it with an OEM digitizer from ebay and now the proximity sensor is malfunctioning (Turns off the screen when im not near it or doesnt turns off when im near it), and there is a line of the screen that doesn't respond to tact. could it be the digitizer that came defective, or maybe it was the installation? oh, the other digitizer was broken and all but the light sensor was working fine and also the other thing. Sorry for my bad grammar.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I replaced my digitizer, and had the EXACT same thing happen (not the light sensor but the line in the screen that doesnt respond to touch).
Get a new digitizer, but get it from someone else.
That's what i feared, did you changed it back again afther that, and did it worked? and thanks.
Metacat said:
That's what i feared, did you changed it back again afther that, and did it worked? and thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. I sold it and let someone else deal with it. Didn't have the time to replace the digitizer again. Too much of a hassle.
I just replaced a digitizer on an atrix... i didnt put any adhesive on it because there was what i thought was adhesive strips on the digitizer... but there's strips on the screen that doesnt respond, i heated it n tried reattaching the digitizer a few times n sometimes the home and back button will work, sometimes they wont... any suggestions? could the lack of adhesive cause this?
Menu buttons problem
if menu buttons is freeze till I block and then unblock my phone is it digitizer problem ?
what do you mean by " block/unblock" ?
Sent from my HTC Desire CDMA using XDA
He means lock/unlock.
Go the ifixit route!
Just went through 3 digitizers in my repair, and wanted to share my experience/caveats
I bought one digitizer from All4Cellular for $25, and the others with a 20% discount a few days later, for $20.
I installed
the first using the RepairUniverse Youtube 'how-to' method, and had a heck of a time threading the flex cables through the slot. Bent/twisted it too much, and nothing responded on the touchscreen, so I read some forum posts on how fragile they were, and regarded that as user error.
Got the idea to move the LCD screen from another RepairUniverse YouTube video and a previous post here, and tried installing the digitizer from the front face of the phone. It was still a delicate matter to bend the flex cable so that it fit through the slot, and then re-position the LCD and align the sticky strips of the digitizer on the LCD and casing. Part of the digitizer worked this time - a 1cm vertical strip on the left fowled any attempt to touch icons or use a keyboard, so I thought I had damaged things again (doh!).
Hoping third time was the charm, I completely disassembled the phone using the guide in the 'ifixit' link, since a digitizer/case assembly was suggested in another thread. The rear camera just needs to be raised above the casing so the thin plate can move upward, and the LCD pops out easily if the sides of the casing are delicately pulled. The digitizer can be positioned easily and with minimal bending/twisting of the flex cables.
When reconnecting everything the third time, I noticed that pressing down on the front camera / digitizer connection *with the rubber boot in place* didn't pass when pulling the connected assembly upward. So I pulled the rubber boot out of the way and snapped the camera / digitizer connection firmly, then re-inserted the boot. A loose connection might have been the culprit for the nonfunctioning part of the digitizer in the second test.
@MrSaba - I had the same issue with capacitive buttons - perhaps because the screen senses touch and disables those buttons. Replacing the digitizer solved the issue
trouble
Hello friends,
Here's my story - broke a screen, as usual slipped from my pocket. though broken, digitizer worked fine. after replacement with new one (digitizer only) - no luck it didn't work. bought a new one, this time with a plastic part around it to avoid damage to it's cable. after careful repair no luck once again - does not work at all. downloaded a testing app (i was able to remote control the phone with a piece of soft called androidscreencast), everything is ok, except digitizer. checked and rechecked all ribbons and connectors 10 times, nothing seems to be broken or twisted.
what's your opinion, is it worth buying third one ? what part of my repair went wrong ?
thanks
drZeT said:
Hello friends,
Here's my story - broke a screen, as usual slipped from my pocket. though broken, digitizer worked fine. after replacement with new one (digitizer only) - no luck it didn't work. bought a new one, this time with a plastic part around it to avoid damage to it's cable. after careful repair no luck once again - does not work at all. downloaded a testing app (i was able to remote control the phone with a piece of soft called androidscreencast), everything is ok, except digitizer. checked and rechecked all ribbons and connectors 10 times, nothing seems to be broken or twisted.
what's your opinion, is it worth buying third one ? what part of my repair went wrong ?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not all digitizers are created equal. The ones that ship with the red stripe on the backing are junk. Spend more money and yes buying with a frame is key. Did you try reinstalling the original screen or did that ship sail already?
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
jjwatmyself said:
Not all digitizers are created equal. The ones that ship with the red stripe on the backing are junk. Spend more money and yes buying with a frame is key. Did you try reinstalling the original screen or did that ship sail already?
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The first one was with the red stripe indeed, from china. The one with a frame came from UK, "used but tested OK". original screen is gone - tore off flex cable while removing.
Well, update...
2 screens bought on eBay were BAD. Had to wait full month for authorised motorola service to change the digitizer. Must say though that both merchants on ebay refunded, no questions asked. Lessons learned - pay more, wait longer, never give up
DrJCFitz said:
the first using the RepairUniverse Youtube 'how-to' method, and had a heck of a time threading the flex cables through the slot. Bent/twisted it too much, and nothing responded on the touchscreen, so I read some forum posts on how fragile they were, and regarded that as user error.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I noticed on their video was that their folded digitizer connector magically unseats itself during the disassembly transition. I had to pry mine off based purely on guesswork and think I might have broken the flip-chip that is stuck onto the frame with double-sided tape. Like yours, my touchscreen doesn't respond at all, despite there being no cable tears. I'm going to try and re-heat that flip chip and maybe get the connections to work again (doubtful).
To anyone else out there attempting this... when you go to remove the touchscreen, HEAT THE CONNECTOR so that you can gently pry it out!
Bad screen I got 3 before it worked its fine now if old one partially works new one doesn't screen is junk took mine apart several times to figure out screens were junk...guess they felt sorry for me give me my money back plus free working screen.from amazon
Also that lock clamp u mentioned first video I watched didn't show unlocking that I just pulled it out and pushed back in it was the 2 screen that I figured out it needed to be pryed loose by the white clamp but guess I didn't damage it..
Sent from my HTC One X+ using xda premium
I have just put in my second digitiser. The first was one had a red stripe, which was junk, the second on I bought had the plastic round the edge and the digitiser.
I put it in and it worked fine no dead spots at all. Then 12 hours in it started to stop working intermittently. Then 24 hours after that while on charge its dead again. I reflashed notattrix and still nothing. I've confirmed all the ribbon connectors are firmly in place and everything looks right.
Any ideas whats wrong?
thanks
Jonnym
Hi,
It seem like there are a lot of people that has TF201s with broken screens, but very little information about how to DIY screen replacement, so I wanted to post my bad experience here as a warning to people, so that they know what they get into.
The screen on my TF201 cracked (dropped on the floor - only the screen was damaged, the LCD and digitizer still worked) so I searched around the web to find ways to replace the screen - without luck
I did find instructions on how to open the device and I also found original glass/digitizer replacement parts on eBay originating from China at about $100 so I took the chance and ordered a new screen. It arrived 2 weeks after and looked good.
With the instructions on how to disassemble the TF201 posted on this forum, it was quickly open and the glass/digitizer/LCD is one subassembly connected to the mainboard with two flex cables - one for the LCD and one for the digitizer.
Next step is to power off the system internally. There is a small internal switch in the lower left corner that you should switch to the off position. The LCD and digitizer cables can now be disconnected from the mainboard. The connectors open easily by putting a nail under the white frame of the correctors and pulling the frame up and then pull out the flex cables. You now have the glass/digitizer/LCD separated from the mainboard.
The LCD has a few screws to hold it to the plastic frame - these should be removed at this step. Mine only has two screws mounted although there is room for more (bad assembly quality or a fix for screen bleeding???)
Now comes the hard part and the part where I failed! There is a plastic frame around the edges of the glass that you need to remove and mount on the new glass. This plastic part holds all the taps that keep the tablet together and it is taped to the glass with some VERY sticky tape!
I used a scalpel to cut between the plastic and the glass with the result that the glass broke in tiny pieces as I went around, but as I saw no other way I kept going... It might have been better to use a heat gun or a hairblower to heat up the glue before trying to remove it, but I was worried that the LCD might be damaged by the heat.
The plastic frame has to be removed first to have access to the foam tape that is used to tape the LCD to the glass/digitizer. Once the plastic frame was off, I again used the knife to gently cut the foam tape (around 1 mm thick) all around the LCD screen so that this can be removed from the glass.
Here I might have made my second mistake. I was worried that I would cut too deep into the foam and hit the LCD screen, but the foam at the bottom of the screen is a little wider than the rest and as I tried to remove the screen I used too much force and might have damaged the LCD - the end result was that also the LCD was damaged in the process. The damage might also have been caused by me pressing too hard on the screen during the removal of the plastic frame (might actually be more likely as the glass was broken across the screen and the damage I was seeing when I turned on the screen was following the same line as the crack).
Well, I got the LCD off the broken screen and though I had been successful even thought it had taken a couple of hours to get there (I could not visually see that the LCD was damaged at this point).
Then on to the assembly with the new screen/digitizer! I had some double sided tape that I used to tape the screen to the plastic, but decided to do a quick test before I fully assembled the unit and this turned out to be a good idea!
I mounted the LCD screen with just the screws and connected the flex cables back into the connectors (these can be a little tricky to get in, so just be patient and keep wiggling them in and close the latches). I enabled the power again and pressed the power button and: DAMM - THE LCD IS BROKE!!!!
After wiggling a little with the LCD cable I was able to get a partial image, but it was evident that I had mishandled the LCD screen during the disassembly and I needed a new screen to get my tablet working again - now I was glad that I did not glue the LCD to the glass, so that I needed both a new LCD and a new glass/digitizer!
Off to the web to search for a replacement LCD screen... Hmm, lots of ebay listings for TF201 replacement LCDs, but none of them looked like the original I had... Then I searched for the partnumber on the LCD I took out (Hannstar HSD101PWW2 rev. 0-A00) and I did find a few items priced around $100.
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS ON THE DIGITIZER WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a way to do a 5 point screen calibration, but this does not seem to be supported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
Have anyone successfully replaced their screen - if so, could you reply with the partnumber listed on the flex cable? Mine is: 3KA12-5SCA01, 18100-10180100.
They did offer to refund the price of the screen if I shipped the screen back to them, but I will most likely damage the screen when trying to remove the plastic frame and it will cost me shipping the part back to China. After a few mails exchanges they offered a $82 refund and I accepted that.
I now have a TF201 with a working touch screen that has the x-axis inverted and no LCD...
Continued...
SUMMARY/LEARNING:
- IF YOUR SCREEN ONLY HAS A SMALL CRACK - LIVE WITH IT OR TRY TO FIX IT WITH AUTO GLASS REPAIR GLUE
- IF YOU REALLY WANT TO GO FOR DIY SCREEN REPLACEMENT, MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET A DIGITIZER THAT WORKS WITH YOUR UNIT!
- WHEN REMOVING THE PLASTIC FRAME FROM THE GLASS BE VERY CAREFULL NOT TO DAMAGE THE LCD SCREEN BY PRESSING ON THE BROKEN GLASS AND TRY TO USE A HAIR DRYER TO HEAT UP THE GLUE (NOT TRIED THIS MYSELF)
- WHEN CUTTING THE FOAM TAPE BETWEEN THE LCD AND THE SCREEN BE VERY CAREFULL TO CUT THOUGH ALL THE TAPE BEFORE TRYING TO REMOVE THE LCD
I now have a TF201 with a working touch screen that has the x-axis inverted and no LCD... Unless I get the touch screen issue resolved I most likely will get a TF700 instead of my broken prime - I really loved the prime for the 4 months I had it working...
Happened to me too!
Bought a prime with an already cracked glass with the hope to fix it, as i do with most higrer-end devices (phones in particular)...
I intended to pass it on to my mom as her first tablet. When i bought it, it was fully usable and after two weeks (before the digitizer got delivered) my mom got addicted to it.
Then i got the digitizer in the mail... I cracker the tablet open, unhooked the front assembly and started going at it. First i tried removing the screws in the hope that the lcd would easily seperate from the digitizer. Sadly that wasn't the case so my next action was to try and seperate the lcd and digitizer from the plastic frame... i broke off a piece of black glass that was over the frame and started working my way arround the gap with small but tough shears so that i would brake the glass off from the frame, working my way arround the screen and digitizer, while removing any broken glass from the frame at the same time. Took two hours and the two were seperated. Tried to connect the lcd to the tablet to see if it still worked, and it did. So i was left with what i thought was an easy task of seperating the lcd and digitizer by lifting the adhesive. Top, left and right went rather easily. I added thin plastic mediator-like opening tools arround the edge so that the lcd wouldn't get stuck back to the adhesive (was trying to preserve the adhesive stips for re-installation). When only the bottom one was left still attached i went with the experience/common-sence approach to start prying the lcd away from the digitizer where i thought the adhesive strip would be the same size and would easily give way... That's probably when the lcd couldn't take it and cracked.
Had i used a scalpel all arround- i would have been left with a perfectly working tablet, but all i had was a tablet with a cracked lcd. So i gave up on this not wanting to crack another (costly) lcd and sold it on ebay. That, and because it was a little too big and heavy to use on the train every day going and from work.
So what have i learned from this?
1. For tablets with glue-stripped-on LCD's ALWAYS break the glass arround the frame (with high caution) to seperate the digitizer+LCD from the frame
2. ALWAYS use a scalpel in between the adhesive and digitizer (making shure that when you insert it, you can see it infront of the LCD and behind the digitizer. If needed, angle the scalpel so that it rests on the digitizer and not the LCD. (LCD pannel edges ussually have a strip of metal or plastic arround the edge, so you won't damage them if you use light force on that area, as opposed to the glass itself.)
Hope people who do break their primes get to see these posts before attempting any repairs.
ThomasKJ said:
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS ON THE DIGITIZER WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a way to do a 5 point screen calibration, but this does not seem to be stouchscreenupported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
Have anyone successfully replaced their screen - if so, could you reply with the partnumber listed on the flex cable? Mine is: 3KA12-5SCA01, 18100-10180100.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have exact same problem with the touchscreen. X-AXIS is reverted but not fully, touchscreen works off pressing like a mirror on the left to the right.
I'ts video youtu.be/XUN_0q5I4ng
my touchscreen partnumber is same.
Сould you upload photos of the touchscreen cables differences between what you had originally and those that worked not correctly?
Where did you find the part number for the digitzer? Is it near the tiny QR code, or on it?
I have the same problem x-axis is reverted. Still wonder why? The original broken glass/digitizer was working fine.
Please share if you guys found the solution. I will do it too.
Thank!
Theres a vid about this. i will post it soon. i'm only using my phone. my prime is with my dad in china. i dont know when i'm getting it back in 2 or mor week i guess? surely i'll be noob again when i get it back.
I have the same problem too. Broken digitizer & lcd.. Got a replacement digitizer and the x-axis was inverted, sent it back and got the full refund.
After that i texted a few mails with another seller that knows the problem, he told me there are two versions of digitizers for the tf201. He sent out the (i hope) right one today, I will post the seller if this one works (takes about two weeks to get it..)
OP started this thread in another forum I found via google search where some guy figured out how to fix the x-axis problem by changing something in the source.. however I think he will release a patch after some more testing but he can't test right now because he has no lcd atm. Here's the thread:
bit.ly/OXx6us (hope it's allowed to post this)
same thing
I have exactly the same issue: axis-x is inverted.
I got it, thought it's broken or fake or whatever and sent it back. Bought another one from a different seller. Same problem.
I'm not a programmer, but I feel it can be fixed easy on a software level (just don't know where to look for it)
Here is my video:
digitizer on the way from China
Any one find a solution for this yet?
I have a digitizer on the way from China.
Just a bump to catch someones attention I hope.
I'm waiting to hear from someone if they found a supplier that will send the right screen, or if they know how to compile the kernel to make the screwed up screens work right.
Kind of holding off ordering mine at the moment.
All of a sudden there are a lot of these for sale on Ebay.
And there hasn't been much chatter on defective ones lately.
Makes me wonder if it was just a specific seller that had a bad batch.
Caught a guy trying to sell his TF201 with a broken LCD that he claims broke while replacing the digitizer.
Turns out he is trying to sell his with one of the inverted digitizers and not stating so in the auction.
I ordered a replacement from New Jersy and canceled the one from china I will see what happens when it gets here.
I will definately test it before I tape it down.
If it works let me know. I'm in Canada and would rather pay a bit more for a properly working one than some knockoff that I have to be a programmer to get working.
Any news on your replacement yet?
Nightpath said:
Any news on your replacement yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got my second replacement-digitizer and it's inverted too.. so frustrating!
As there are so many people with this problem I hope some expierienced guy will take a look at the touchscreen-driver and post a little workaround. It is possible to fix this problem by editing the driver but I don't know how it exactly has to be done.
I will share my problem.
My screen broke, however, the LCD and touch still worked.
I ordered a new screen for ASUS authorized service, because using a tablet with a cracked screen is horrible.
I thought it would be posted only the digitizer, but no, the Asus offers LCD screen with digitizer, it is not necessary to work to separate the two parts.
A professional did the replacement.
The problem is that the new set is crazy.
When the tablet is horizontal | === |,
* think that is vertically
| = |
| = |
* and otherwise also.
I think I was unlucky.
* I'm about to order a new set, this time, buy direct from asusparts.eu
Hmmm...where exactly did you order your first digitizer (touchscreen)? And that site you linked sucks, no pictures of any of the items to make sure you're getting the right one.
Received mine yesterday, [email protected]#$** piece of crap!!
It is inverted,it is going back.
First they wanted to give me a discount to keep it, idiots!
Then theyy want to send me another in exchange, they don't seem to understand the problem is they are all going to be the same if they are from the same batch.
Any one found a source for a good one yet?
I am going to try and see if Asus will sell them directly to the end user.
They sell laptop parts, so maybe they will do a digitizer.
I'll post my findings.
Cool. I work long days here in Canada (military, sigh) so I don't get much of a chance to do anything. Let me know as soon as you find out TRJ
Anyone done this? My 800 fell onto concrete and the screen is shattered. It still works perfectly but obviously the screen is shattered.
They sell the glass on ebay for £10, or the full screen for about £70.
I asked in my local market stall and they said £40 for the repair. Not sure I trust them though, Another said £120 but for the full screen.
Is there somewhere I can send it to? I'm pretty clumsy so I don't really want to try and repair myself...
Glass and lcd are glued together and you can't change them sepparately. Safest way is to buy lcd+glass module together. You can change it by yourself, its easy. There is one perfect video on youtube (i think le55ons made it), so you can give a try.
I have done both, there's a number of instruction videos on Youtube. I'd replace the whole screen, takes 5 minutes and is very easy to do.
Just be very careful, it's relatively easy to mark the borders of the case in the process.
Sent from my Lumia 800 using XDA Windows Phone 7 App
Mine was broken too, went to Shenzhen to buy a new one for RMB150 (US$ 20 or so).
Change according to this video was easy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xCU2PWiq0Kc
One problem was that my phone was totally discharged, so it was difficult to check whether the screen worked. But the shop had an open Nokia N9 which uses the same screen. So far so good.
A few hours later when I was back home of course then glass came of the white plastic frame and was hanging loose. I fixed that with double sided tape. Seems to work just fine, so no further action for that issue.
The screen seem to have dead spots. Sometimes. Sometimes not. Would be good to have paint App to check exactly where.
Yesterday at one stage the screen flickered like mad for a moment. But today no issue at all.
I have ONE question: What is the 2nd, small, flex cable for? In the shop they told me it's no use. But must be there for some reasons.
PS: a screen image I just took. I used a paint app to find the dead spot. I wonder if the LCD is defect or if this is an connection issue. I highly recommend to get a paint app to try that when you do a LCD replacement.
Update: after one more disassembly and reassembly the LCD has no dead spots and works fine. I am not sure what the smaller flex cable is for, I presume it's the light sensor.
Update of of the update: the dead spot is back. I presume the flex cable has a broken track that was temporarily connected last time. Seems that's hard to fix. Need a new LCD then.
I've just dropped my three month old Honor 7 and the screen is cracked from the bottom right corner. I bought it new from Amazon UK (sold by Amazon EU S.a.r.L.), it wasn't through Vmall. Is the screen covered under any form of warranty? If not, where's the cheapest place to get it fixed in the UK?
GrandMasterPlank said:
I've just dropped my three month old Honor 7 and the screen is cracked from the bottom right corner. I bought it new from Amazon UK (sold by Amazon EU S.a.r.L.), it wasn't through Vmall. Is the screen covered under any form of warranty? If not, where's the cheapest place to get it fixed in the UK?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think the screen is guaranteed against manufacturing faults, but not the glass against accidental damage.
When I trod on mine in the back of a car, I called Hihonor support and they quoted me £70-80 + £15 inspection and postage charge, which I thought was reasonable, however when calling their repair centre to book mine in they laughed and said it would be at least £130 for Honor 7 screen replacement - they can't do just the glass as it's all bonded to the digitiser and screen.
I decided to buy a new screen (with glass, digitiser and interior frame attached) from eBay for about £40 and fitted it myself. Not as easy as the videos on youtube make it look - it is very difficult to get apart for a start, then the battery is hard to remove. Also, various parts (including all the buttons, vibration motor etc have to be heated with a hairdryer to separate them from the old screen frame and re-installed into the new frame.
Luckily mine is working perfectly now, although I think the screen may not be quite as bright as the original one was.
I wouldn't try to buy just the glass, or even the glass and screen (without the frame) - you'll never get it to look as good as new.
Good luck and let us know how you get on with having it repaired or doing it yourself.
You can PM me if you need any advice
honorable said:
I think the screen is guaranteed against manufacturing faults, but not the glass against accidental damage.
When I trod on mine in the back of a car, I called Hihonor support and they quoted me £70-80 + £15 inspection and postage charge, which I thought was reasonable, however when calling their repair centre to book mine in they laughed and said it would be at least £130 for Honor 7 screen replacement - they can't do just the glass as it's all bonded to the digitiser and screen.
I decided to buy a new screen (with glass, digitiser and interior frame attached) from eBay for about £40 and fitted it myself. Not as easy as the videos on youtube make it look - it is very difficult to get apart for a start, then the battery is hard to remove. Also, various parts (including all the buttons, vibration motor etc have to be heated with a hairdryer to separate them from the old screen frame and re-installed into the new frame.
Luckily mine is working perfectly now, although I think the screen may not be quite as bright as the original one was.
I wouldn't try to buy just the glass, or even the glass and screen (without the frame) - you'll never get it to look as good as new.
Good luck and let us know how you get on with having it repaired or doing it yourself.
You can PM me if you need any advice
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks dude, much appreciated. I was into it until you started mentioning removing parts by heating them up then thought I'll leave it to the experts. :laugh: Honor UK have quoted me £80 as it's a pretty clean break so I'm going to give them a go and see what they say. If they do the same as they did for you, which they said they wouldn't!, then I'll go with that. Will let you know.
I'm surprised their aren't more threads on hear about replacing screens because this phone does feel fragile despite being reasonably weighty so I'd have thought there'd be loads of cracked screens out there. I dropped my old S5 a couple of times from higher up and the screen survived both times. Am now thinking a tempered glass protector might be in order for the 7 :fingers-crossed:
Mine had a glass protector, but I guess they don't cope with treading on! I've put one on the new screen too.
I also have an S-line gel case which acts as a bit of a buffer against drops.
Let us know if you get yours done for £80
honorable said:
Mine had a glass protector, but I guess they don't cope with treading on! I've put one on the new screen too.
I also have an S-line gel case which acts as a bit of a buffer against drops.
Let us know if you get yours done for £80
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After reading reviews of the official Honor repair company, SBE Limited, and how they appear to be happy to scam people I thought I'd have a go myself. So I bought a replacement front glass and thought I'd give it a go.
Dissembling the phone is really easy, once you've got the hang of the clips holding the back on, and taking it all apart was easy. What wasn't so easy (read nigh-on impossible) is separating the front glass from the digitiser. I tried and tried and in the end the touch screen just split into a number of layers so I'll need to order the complete screen assembly. My concern is you mentioned you bought one off ebay and it wasn't as bright as the original. From this I'm guessing it wasn't an original screen? I'd like to get an original if I can. Do you have a link to the one you bought? How long did it take coming from China?
Don't know if this is relevant but under the hicare app it allows you to price up replacement parts. Could not find any mention of the Honor 7 but it did list the Honor 5X as £35 so might be worth trying this way to see if they do have the Honor 7.
I got mine from eBay seller called bestsellstuff.
£35.27 at the moment and mine came quicker than expected with 2nd class delivery free.
I don't think any of the eBay sellers will say they are genuine screens, but I think they probably all are - I can't imagine they would be cheap to replicate. Maybe they are seconds or find their way out of the factory somehow....
boroleigh said:
Don't know if this is relevant but under the hicare app it allows you to price up replacement parts. Could not find any mention of the Honor 7 but it did list the Honor 5X as £35 so might be worth trying this way to see if they do have the Honor 7.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the nod. Tried it but no joy. For some reason they don't support the Honor 7. Very Huawei tbh, they're left hand doesn't know what the right is doing. A bit all over the place.
honorable said:
I got mine from eBay seller called bestsellstuff.
£35.27 at the moment and mine came quicker than expected with 2nd class delivery free.
I don't think any of the eBay sellers will say they are genuine screens, but I think they probably all are - I can't imagine they would be cheap to replicate. Maybe they are seconds or find their way out of the factory somehow....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great stuff, have just ordered the last one they had in stock in they're in France also, so should be quicker than coming from Hong Kong. Funny thing is I hadn't seen their add before, it hadn't come up with my ebay search for 'Honor 7 replacement screen'. Without having the name I'd not have found it and paid more so thanks again! :good:
Here are a few tips for when it arrives:
Don't peel off any of the blue plastic film until you're ready to do each part - it's very sticky underneath.
Take photos as you go along incase you need to go back a astep.
I'm not sure if you got to the stage of removing the battery before - it is stuck down very strongly. I just gradually prised mine out, but you might find heating it a bit will release it easier. There aren't any cables underneath it (as some other Honors have).
When heating (with a hairdryer) the small bits of circuit board and components that need to be transferred to the new frame, only do it for long enough to get them to peel off (I used tweezers to do this).
When you come to install each part, there are very small bumps in the frame that you need to line up the equally small holes on the part - makes positioning them easy! Then use a plastic tool to press them firmly onto the frame.
When you come to put everything back, make sure that the very small narrow ribbon cable that goes under the tiny flip-up bracket (the connection to the smart key) goes in fully until it stops. I didn't put mine in completely and the smart key wouldn't work until I re-did it properly.
You may notice that there is a square-ish hole and some slots in the frame (under where the battery goes?) on the new frame which aren't on the old one. If so, you might want to cover them up with some black gaffa tape or thin card - I suspect they are the cause of some light areas at the very sides of my screen, but I don't want to strip mine down again.
honorable said:
Here are a few tips for when it arrives:
Don't peel off any of the blue plastic film until you're ready to do each part - it's very sticky underneath.
Take photos as you go along incase you need to go back a astep.
I'm not sure if you got to the stage of removing the battery before - it is stuck down very strongly. I just gradually prised mine out, but you might find heating it a bit will release it easier. There aren't any cables underneath it (as some other Honors have).
When heating (with a hairdryer) the small bits of circuit board and components that need to be transferred to the new frame, only do it for long enough to get them to peel off (I used tweezers to do this).
When you come to install each part, there are very small bumps in the frame that you need to line up the equally small holes on the part - makes positioning them easy! Then use a plastic tool to press them firmly onto the frame.
When you come to put everything back, make sure that the very small narrow ribbon cable that goes under the tiny flip-up bracket (the connection to the smart key) goes in fully until it stops. I didn't put mine in completely and the smart key wouldn't work until I re-did it properly.
You may notice that there is a square-ish hole and some slots in the frame (under where the battery goes?) on the new frame which aren't on the old one. If so, you might want to cover them up with some black gaffa tape or thin card - I suspect they are the cause of some light areas at the very sides of my screen, but I don't want to strip mine down again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great tips, thanks again. I'll be sorting it as soon as it arrives. Will report on how I get on.
honorable said:
Here are a few tips for when it arrives:
Don't peel off any of the blue plastic film until you're ready to do each part - it's very sticky underneath.......
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorted!! Thanks for the advice, was really useful. Took it all on board, took my time (about 1hr) and fitted the new screen. Clipped it all back together and worked perfect first time. £35 to get your screen fixed, amazing. I'll always fix a cracked screen from now on, these repair companies are just profiteering.
Thanks again.
GrandMasterPlank said:
Sorted!! Thanks for the advice, was really useful. Took it all on board, took my time (about 1hr) and fitted the new screen. Clipped it all back together and worked perfect first time. £35 to get your screen fixed, amazing. I'll always fix a cracked screen from now on, these repair companies are just profiteering.
Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great news!!
Did you have to cover the square hole and slot to stop light leakage?
Also, is there any light bleeding at the sides and is there any difference in brightness from the original screen?
honorable said:
Great news!!
Did you have to cover the square hole and slot to stop light leakage?
Also, is there any light bleeding at the sides and is there any difference in brightness from the original screen?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The screen and housing isn't original Huawei, it's a pattern unit but tbh it looks totally identical in use, no less dim than the original screen. There's also no bleed at all. There weren't any hollows and slots to fill with card under the battery. The only hollow was at the base of the battery as it sat slightly higher up (towards the top of the phone when laid flat) in the casing so I filled that with folded card.
The only slight issue is that the screen shape (rounded corners of the glass) when looking at the phone from the front doesn't fit into the corners of the casing absolutely perfectly. Tbh only a phone nut would notice it, wouldn't be an issue to anyone else.