Cracked screen under warranty or cheapest repair in the UK? - Honor 7 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

I've just dropped my three month old Honor 7 and the screen is cracked from the bottom right corner. I bought it new from Amazon UK (sold by Amazon EU S.a.r.L.), it wasn't through Vmall. Is the screen covered under any form of warranty? If not, where's the cheapest place to get it fixed in the UK?

GrandMasterPlank said:
I've just dropped my three month old Honor 7 and the screen is cracked from the bottom right corner. I bought it new from Amazon UK (sold by Amazon EU S.a.r.L.), it wasn't through Vmall. Is the screen covered under any form of warranty? If not, where's the cheapest place to get it fixed in the UK?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think the screen is guaranteed against manufacturing faults, but not the glass against accidental damage.
When I trod on mine in the back of a car, I called Hihonor support and they quoted me £70-80 + £15 inspection and postage charge, which I thought was reasonable, however when calling their repair centre to book mine in they laughed and said it would be at least £130 for Honor 7 screen replacement - they can't do just the glass as it's all bonded to the digitiser and screen.
I decided to buy a new screen (with glass, digitiser and interior frame attached) from eBay for about £40 and fitted it myself. Not as easy as the videos on youtube make it look - it is very difficult to get apart for a start, then the battery is hard to remove. Also, various parts (including all the buttons, vibration motor etc have to be heated with a hairdryer to separate them from the old screen frame and re-installed into the new frame.
Luckily mine is working perfectly now, although I think the screen may not be quite as bright as the original one was.
I wouldn't try to buy just the glass, or even the glass and screen (without the frame) - you'll never get it to look as good as new.
Good luck and let us know how you get on with having it repaired or doing it yourself.
You can PM me if you need any advice

honorable said:
I think the screen is guaranteed against manufacturing faults, but not the glass against accidental damage.
When I trod on mine in the back of a car, I called Hihonor support and they quoted me £70-80 + £15 inspection and postage charge, which I thought was reasonable, however when calling their repair centre to book mine in they laughed and said it would be at least £130 for Honor 7 screen replacement - they can't do just the glass as it's all bonded to the digitiser and screen.
I decided to buy a new screen (with glass, digitiser and interior frame attached) from eBay for about £40 and fitted it myself. Not as easy as the videos on youtube make it look - it is very difficult to get apart for a start, then the battery is hard to remove. Also, various parts (including all the buttons, vibration motor etc have to be heated with a hairdryer to separate them from the old screen frame and re-installed into the new frame.
Luckily mine is working perfectly now, although I think the screen may not be quite as bright as the original one was.
I wouldn't try to buy just the glass, or even the glass and screen (without the frame) - you'll never get it to look as good as new.
Good luck and let us know how you get on with having it repaired or doing it yourself.
You can PM me if you need any advice
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks dude, much appreciated. I was into it until you started mentioning removing parts by heating them up then thought I'll leave it to the experts. :laugh: Honor UK have quoted me £80 as it's a pretty clean break so I'm going to give them a go and see what they say. If they do the same as they did for you, which they said they wouldn't!, then I'll go with that. Will let you know.
I'm surprised their aren't more threads on hear about replacing screens because this phone does feel fragile despite being reasonably weighty so I'd have thought there'd be loads of cracked screens out there. I dropped my old S5 a couple of times from higher up and the screen survived both times. Am now thinking a tempered glass protector might be in order for the 7 :fingers-crossed:

Mine had a glass protector, but I guess they don't cope with treading on! I've put one on the new screen too.
I also have an S-line gel case which acts as a bit of a buffer against drops.
Let us know if you get yours done for £80

honorable said:
Mine had a glass protector, but I guess they don't cope with treading on! I've put one on the new screen too.
I also have an S-line gel case which acts as a bit of a buffer against drops.
Let us know if you get yours done for £80
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After reading reviews of the official Honor repair company, SBE Limited, and how they appear to be happy to scam people I thought I'd have a go myself. So I bought a replacement front glass and thought I'd give it a go.
Dissembling the phone is really easy, once you've got the hang of the clips holding the back on, and taking it all apart was easy. What wasn't so easy (read nigh-on impossible) is separating the front glass from the digitiser. I tried and tried and in the end the touch screen just split into a number of layers so I'll need to order the complete screen assembly. My concern is you mentioned you bought one off ebay and it wasn't as bright as the original. From this I'm guessing it wasn't an original screen? I'd like to get an original if I can. Do you have a link to the one you bought? How long did it take coming from China?

Don't know if this is relevant but under the hicare app it allows you to price up replacement parts. Could not find any mention of the Honor 7 but it did list the Honor 5X as £35 so might be worth trying this way to see if they do have the Honor 7.

I got mine from eBay seller called bestsellstuff.
£35.27 at the moment and mine came quicker than expected with 2nd class delivery free.
I don't think any of the eBay sellers will say they are genuine screens, but I think they probably all are - I can't imagine they would be cheap to replicate. Maybe they are seconds or find their way out of the factory somehow....

boroleigh said:
Don't know if this is relevant but under the hicare app it allows you to price up replacement parts. Could not find any mention of the Honor 7 but it did list the Honor 5X as £35 so might be worth trying this way to see if they do have the Honor 7.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the nod. Tried it but no joy. For some reason they don't support the Honor 7. Very Huawei tbh, they're left hand doesn't know what the right is doing. A bit all over the place.
honorable said:
I got mine from eBay seller called bestsellstuff.
£35.27 at the moment and mine came quicker than expected with 2nd class delivery free.
I don't think any of the eBay sellers will say they are genuine screens, but I think they probably all are - I can't imagine they would be cheap to replicate. Maybe they are seconds or find their way out of the factory somehow....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great stuff, have just ordered the last one they had in stock in they're in France also, so should be quicker than coming from Hong Kong. Funny thing is I hadn't seen their add before, it hadn't come up with my ebay search for 'Honor 7 replacement screen'. Without having the name I'd not have found it and paid more so thanks again! :good:

Here are a few tips for when it arrives:
Don't peel off any of the blue plastic film until you're ready to do each part - it's very sticky underneath.
Take photos as you go along incase you need to go back a astep.
I'm not sure if you got to the stage of removing the battery before - it is stuck down very strongly. I just gradually prised mine out, but you might find heating it a bit will release it easier. There aren't any cables underneath it (as some other Honors have).
When heating (with a hairdryer) the small bits of circuit board and components that need to be transferred to the new frame, only do it for long enough to get them to peel off (I used tweezers to do this).
When you come to install each part, there are very small bumps in the frame that you need to line up the equally small holes on the part - makes positioning them easy! Then use a plastic tool to press them firmly onto the frame.
When you come to put everything back, make sure that the very small narrow ribbon cable that goes under the tiny flip-up bracket (the connection to the smart key) goes in fully until it stops. I didn't put mine in completely and the smart key wouldn't work until I re-did it properly.
You may notice that there is a square-ish hole and some slots in the frame (under where the battery goes?) on the new frame which aren't on the old one. If so, you might want to cover them up with some black gaffa tape or thin card - I suspect they are the cause of some light areas at the very sides of my screen, but I don't want to strip mine down again.

honorable said:
Here are a few tips for when it arrives:
Don't peel off any of the blue plastic film until you're ready to do each part - it's very sticky underneath.
Take photos as you go along incase you need to go back a astep.
I'm not sure if you got to the stage of removing the battery before - it is stuck down very strongly. I just gradually prised mine out, but you might find heating it a bit will release it easier. There aren't any cables underneath it (as some other Honors have).
When heating (with a hairdryer) the small bits of circuit board and components that need to be transferred to the new frame, only do it for long enough to get them to peel off (I used tweezers to do this).
When you come to install each part, there are very small bumps in the frame that you need to line up the equally small holes on the part - makes positioning them easy! Then use a plastic tool to press them firmly onto the frame.
When you come to put everything back, make sure that the very small narrow ribbon cable that goes under the tiny flip-up bracket (the connection to the smart key) goes in fully until it stops. I didn't put mine in completely and the smart key wouldn't work until I re-did it properly.
You may notice that there is a square-ish hole and some slots in the frame (under where the battery goes?) on the new frame which aren't on the old one. If so, you might want to cover them up with some black gaffa tape or thin card - I suspect they are the cause of some light areas at the very sides of my screen, but I don't want to strip mine down again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great tips, thanks again. I'll be sorting it as soon as it arrives. Will report on how I get on.

honorable said:
Here are a few tips for when it arrives:
Don't peel off any of the blue plastic film until you're ready to do each part - it's very sticky underneath.......
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorted!! Thanks for the advice, was really useful. Took it all on board, took my time (about 1hr) and fitted the new screen. Clipped it all back together and worked perfect first time. £35 to get your screen fixed, amazing. I'll always fix a cracked screen from now on, these repair companies are just profiteering.
Thanks again.

GrandMasterPlank said:
Sorted!! Thanks for the advice, was really useful. Took it all on board, took my time (about 1hr) and fitted the new screen. Clipped it all back together and worked perfect first time. £35 to get your screen fixed, amazing. I'll always fix a cracked screen from now on, these repair companies are just profiteering.
Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great news!!
Did you have to cover the square hole and slot to stop light leakage?
Also, is there any light bleeding at the sides and is there any difference in brightness from the original screen?

honorable said:
Great news!!
Did you have to cover the square hole and slot to stop light leakage?
Also, is there any light bleeding at the sides and is there any difference in brightness from the original screen?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The screen and housing isn't original Huawei, it's a pattern unit but tbh it looks totally identical in use, no less dim than the original screen. There's also no bleed at all. There weren't any hollows and slots to fill with card under the battery. The only hollow was at the base of the battery as it sat slightly higher up (towards the top of the phone when laid flat) in the casing so I filled that with folded card.
The only slight issue is that the screen shape (rounded corners of the glass) when looking at the phone from the front doesn't fit into the corners of the casing absolutely perfectly. Tbh only a phone nut would notice it, wouldn't be an issue to anyone else.

Related

How to replace HTC Mozart glass / digitiser

I can't find any info on this, but it looks like it could be tricky to replace. I cracked my glass by dropping it onto stone, still works OK. You can pick up digitisers pretty cheap on ebay (£20 UK) but does anyone know how to replace? I read that they can be glued to the LCD?
Thanks
Google for the fixit website, if someone has done it there will be a tutorial, or you could follow the guide on here to upgrade your sd card....only because you have to take the phone fully apart. You need to check if the lcd is glued or like the iphone 4 resin. If they are a sealed unit you'd be better off getting the lcd/digitizer combo on ebay. trying to separate an lcd from the digitizer is asking for trouble imho.
I have ordered a digitiser, really hope the digitiser is not glued to the LCD, there is a big price difference. I'll let you know how I get on.
I bought a Mozart with wrecked digitizer and also want to repair it. The digitizer is on its way, so in a week i could tell you how difficult or maybe easy it is.
If you are faster, please post your experience.
I found this thread on xda.cn, and it seems that the lcd isnt glued on the digitizer, so lets hope so
hxxp://xxx.xda.cn/newshow.php?snid=2167
EDIT: sorry cantpost links, so must change the x's to t's and w's
I have got my digitiser now, looks brand new. Just need to find the time to replace, might upgrade the SD card at the same time.
Done
I did this with Andy's guide to help: http://lifeinthefastlaneok.wordpres...-7-mozart-sd-card-memory-upgrade/#comment-225
I used this guide to replace my digitiser (the glass) which I smashed. The good news is that the digitiser is not stuck to the LCD at all. I just bought a grade A digitiser off ebay for £20 which was pretty much perfect - glass was perfect with a couple of small marks on the back case, but basically like new.
There were a couple of differences to this guide:
- Had to replace a speaker type thing at the top of the digitiser that was not present on the new one. Came off quite easily, just stuck in.
- Had to remove the USB port of the old case back (if you are replacing that too) but that was just a couple of screws
- You dont have to split the PCB off if doing this, you just take off the black clips to take it apart and then remove the orange ribbon cable, it is a little tricky to get the new one in but OK.
I now have a phone as good as new, I didn't replace the SD at the same time but probably will do at some point when I can stand loosing all my data.
Found time today to replace the digitizer. I also used Andy's videos for instruction. And it's really not that hard. Pretty easy for someones first mobile phone repair.
Well done, I would add for anyone else needing to do this, be very careful not to touch the inside of the digitiser or the LCD when you have it apart! Also have a glasses cloth handy for removing any dust particles just before you put it back together.
I do have one strange thing however - before I had intermittent issues where I could not slide the screen up when locked for 10 seconds or so. No I have a slightly different issue when unlocking - it doesn't always let me press on the right hand 3 numbers on the PIN screen! So it seems the unlocking issue some people have is due to a hardware issue. My digitiser was second hand so I might ask for a replacement, but I can change my pin so that it is not an issue.
My Mozart touch-screen hardly works at all plus my wife's Mozart has a cracked digitizer glass (still working fine).
So silly me I took the plunge and ordered three cheap replacement digitizers via eBay (from Hong Hong). They arrived today and all are s**t useless.
When I opened the box I smelt the rat when I spied the HTC logo on each was blanked out on the outside of the plastic zip-lock bags (with what looked like black felt pen), plus each glass has minor blemishes/scratches. Comparing each with the digitizers I removed from my and my wife's phones, they have a different design of ribbon cable conductor layout plus there are indications the plastic moulding isn't as well finished in a couple of places. Either these are factory rejects or knock-off copies. Lesson learnt :-(
Anyway, I now need to buy genuine HTC parts.
Any pointers toward reliable sources appreciated, thanks.
KJ
I have bought some off ebay. The problem is that these are almost always from returned Mozart's which may well have been returned due to non responsive screens, which seems to be a very common problem.
I have had 2 off the same chap now, one is OK but not perfect, the other one didnt work at all.
I would just keep returning them until you get one that works.
Sometimes you will find new combined digitiser/LCD's on ebay too, these would be a better bet but cost more.
Can someone who as changed a screen on this phone using Andys guide, please tell me how easy or hard it was, and how long does it take??
And would be grateful if someone could give me a link to the correct digitizer for this phone....
I am in the UK and have been qouted 50 pounds at a phone shop for the to supply and fit screen...
Did you see my post?
There were a couple of differences to this (Andy's) guide:
- Had to replace a speaker type thing at the top of the digitiser that was not present on the new one. Came off quite easily, just stuck in.
- Had to remove the USB port of the old case back (if you are replacing that too) but that was just a couple of screws
- You dont have to split the PCB off if doing this, you just take off the black clips to take it apart and then remove the orange ribbon cable, it is a little tricky to get the new one in but OK.
The most tricky thing for me was getting all the dust off the LCD and the digitsier, as soon as you get it apart things start sticking to it like crazy. Have a clean glasses cloth around.
It takes about an hour on your first go. The main thing is to get the orange ribbon cablle in fully, it can be tricky - you need to get a good grip on it (fold it a little) and push it home quite hard, otherwise you get it all back together and find it doesn't work.
I have had 2 dodgy screens off ebay, £50 sounds OK if it is a brand new original HTC screen.
Or just search for 'htc mozart digitiser' on ebayt there are loads.
hsclater said:
I have bought some off ebay. The problem is that these are almost always from returned Mozart's which may well have been returned due to non responsive screens, which seems to be a very common problem.
I have had 2 off the same chap now, one is OK but not perfect, the other one didnt work at all.
I would just keep returning them until you get one that works.
Sometimes you will find new combined digitiser/LCD's on ebay too, these would be a better bet but cost more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for that. A close look at the ones I bought from china I'm sure now are removed from phones with faulty digitizers, then repackaged as new. One of the three had significant dust and dirt on the inside of the digitiser screen. I've requested a refund via PalPal disputes.
I've ordered some digitizers from ecell in the UK. I'm led to believe by them that these are genuine HTC factory supplied spares.
KJ
I just replaced my 4th screen (1 broke, 2 dodgy).
This one is perfect - as new condition and works perfectly, my last one was not responsive in some situations e.g. lock screen.
This is the one I got (UK)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130498971267?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Of course, your mileage may vary - some are probably good, some not. Replace it, if it doesn't work ask for another, etc.
My new digitizers arrived today from the uk. Horray they are genuine HTC spare parts properly packaged. The downside is they don't include the frame the glass sit in and is adhered to.
So I watched the official HTC Mozart disassembly video on youtube to see how to remove the existing digitizer glass from the frame - got it apart ok after heating the unit to soften the adhesives but it didn't come away entirely cleanly i.e some of the adhesive foam broke away and was left on the underside of the glass.
So... check on eBay and found sellers selling refurbished screen frames ready for a new glass to be attached.
Will update on progress once they arrive.
KJ
just ordered my digitiser today... wish me luck...lol
poolielad said:
just ordered my digitiser today... wish me luck...lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I am now buzzing... have just changed my screen at it works perfect.....
£50 they wanted at the shop...it cost me £13....
Just to let you know how easy this is to do........If I can do it, anyone can..
Did anyone find a reliable supply in the end? I just cracked my digitiser so looking to replace it...
--edit--
Also, how much have others paid? Don't want to be ripped off for some sub-standard part.
Hello everybody,
I m trying to replace the digitiser of a HTC Mozart too.
It is really easy to do, even the part where you have to take off the digitiser from the plastic frame.
But I have an issue, it is the second digitiser I am using ( from the same ebay shop ) and the digitiser is working inverted vertically! Really strange but it is like that.
As the mobile phone is started up, when I push on a left buton, it push on a right button ! On the key board, when I press on "P" it press on "A" ( i m using an Azerty layout, I assume it should be "Q" on your layout ).
It is really anyoing of course.
It is the second screen I received from the Ebay shop and same issue, I don't think the problem come from my side, but I just want to ask to you all if somebody have an idea or the same issue once.
fx.lagwagon said:
Hello everybody,
I m trying to replace the digitiser of a HTC Mozart too.
It is really easy to do, even the part where you have to take off the digitiser from the plastic frame.
But I have an issue, it is the second digitiser I am using ( from the same ebay shop ) and the digitiser is working inverted vertically! Really strange but it is like that.
As the mobile phone is started up, when I push on a left buton, it push on a right button ! On the key board, when I press on "P" it press on "A" ( i m using an Azerty layout, I assume it should be "Q" on your layout ).
It is really anyoing of course.
It is the second screen I received from the Ebay shop and same issue, I don't think the problem come from my side, but I just want to ask to you all if somebody have an idea or the same issue once.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mate, I had the same problem. However it seems no one was able to help me either.
I also purchased a digitizer from Ebay for my Mozart - the exact same inverted issue occurred with me. I wasn't able to find a solution.
I'm in Australia with a T8697 model. The digitizer I received from Ebay had a circle around the windows button at the bottom - This was not on my original screen.
In the end, I purchased a digitizer from an Australian business. Cost double the Ebay digitizer did, so I hope it works... Haven't received it yet, but I'll let you know when I put it in.
What model Mozart do you own?

[Q] Chrome bezel replacement - nightmare job or not that bad?!

Hi all,
Ok, so i've had a small disaster. As you probably guessed already i've dropped my phone. I thought the story was quite amusing (or just plain unfortunate!) so i'll you tell that before I ask for some advice!!
I got myself a white Galaxy S2 on upgrade through Vodafone. Gorgeous piece of kit so I ordered myself a nice case and screen protector to keep it nice and tidy.
Unfortunately the case got 'lost in the post' and as such the phone was unprotected. So, with some foresight I ordered a plain white cheap one off eBay (£2 inc. postage) just to see me through the 3-5 days I needed before the case I wanted was resent.
However what was sent what not white at all - it was the most hideous case with a rather disgusting floral effect all over it. I was going out for a night in town and had no choice, I had to take it with me.
Unfortunately later that eve I was stood at the bar, and my phone went off. So to save any embarrassment I slid the phone out of it's hideous case, and proceeded to read the message. Then it happened. The slippery son of a ***** jumped out of my hand, bounced off my foot and hit the deck.
It only has a couple of dings in the chrome bezel (the chrome effect rubbed off in two places to reveal black (the plating is obviously really thin)) - everything else was ok. Phew. But i'm still gutted and annoyed with myself
So, lesson learnt. I should have left the disgusting garish floral case on and it would have saved my phone. It was only 'de-sheathed' for a second and I managed to drop it, classic.
As a temporary solution, I coloured in the affected areas of the bezel with a silver permanent marker, and used some clear nail varnish over the top to stop the pen coming off. It seems to work well actually, and it looks much better than the black marks.
So, to my question - how do I change the chrome bezel for a new one?
I have read many threads, and watched many videos, and it looks to me like a nightmare job (eg as well as taking off the back and all components, you have to prise off the screen which is glued on, disconnect digitiser, etc). Can anyone confirm this, or has anyone tried it?
I can't find any videos of changing the bezel - they all seem to only go as far as taking off the back.
I've found a couple of sellers which sell the housing in white for only £20-30, so if it's an easy-ish job i'd have a stab at it. However i'm thinking I might as well just forget it ever happened and not be so precious about keeping the phone in A1 condition - it's a phone after all and it's going to encounter some scrapes now and then, even with a case on. And I plan on keeping it for 18 months anyway.
Opinions, anyone?
Cheers!
Movisman said:
Hi all,
Ok, so i've had a small disaster. As you probably guessed already i've dropped my phone. I thought the story was quite amusing (or just plain unfortunate!) so i'll you tell that before I ask for some advice!!
I got myself a white Galaxy S2 on upgrade through Vodafone. Gorgeous piece of kit so I ordered myself a nice case and screen protector to keep it nice and tidy.
Unfortunately the case got 'lost in the post' and as such the phone was unprotected. So, with some foresight I ordered a plain white cheap one off eBay (£2 inc. postage) just to see me through the 3-5 days I needed before the case I wanted was resent.
However what was sent what not white at all - it was the most hideous case with a rather disgusting floral effect all over it. I was going out for a night in town and had no choice, I had to take it with me.
Unfortunately later that eve I was stood at the bar, and my phone went off. So to save any embarrassment I slid the phone out of it's hideous case, and proceeded to read the message. Then it happened. The slippery son of a ***** jumped out of my hand, bounced off my foot and hit the deck.
It only has a couple of dings in the chrome bezel (the chrome effect rubbed off in two places to reveal black (the plating is obviously really thin)) - everything else was ok. Phew. But i'm still gutted and annoyed with myself
So, lesson learnt. I should have left the disgusting garish floral case on and it would have saved my phone. It was only 'de-sheathed' for a second and I managed to drop it, classic.
As a temporary solution, I coloured in the affected areas of the bezel with a silver permanent marker, and used some clear nail varnish over the top to stop the pen coming off. It seems to work well actually, and it looks much better than the black marks.
So, to my question - how do I change the chrome bezel for a new one?
I have read many threads, and watched many videos, and it looks to me like a nightmare job (eg as well as taking off the back and all components, you have to prise off the screen which is glued on, disconnect digitiser, etc). Can anyone confirm this, or has anyone tried it?
I can't find any videos of changing the bezel - they all seem to only go as far as taking off the back.
I've found a couple of sellers which sell the housing in white for only £20-30, so if it's an easy-ish job i'd have a stab at it. However i'm thinking I might as well just forget it ever happened and not be so precious about keeping the phone in A1 condition - it's a phone after all and it's going to encounter some scrapes now and then, even with a case on. And I plan on keeping it for 18 months anyway.
Opinions, anyone?
Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to hear...similar happened to my HTC Desire...however this should help...if you buy the kit off Ebay...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1253969
0semaj0 said:
Sorry to hear...similar happened to my HTC Desire...however this should help...if you buy the kit off Ebay...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1253969
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Thanks for the information - I had a look at this tutorial yesterday, and although it's very good, it looks like this person has replaced the entire led panel/digitiser/housing in one go, rather than just the housing?
My screen is just fine, so I only need to replace the housing part.
The hardest bit looks like separating the screen from the housing from what i've read, and this is what I can't find a tutorial for, only some images on youtube suggesting to use a hairdryer to help with the proceedings!!
Thanks
Movisman said:
Hi,
Thanks for the information - I had a look at this tutorial yesterday, and although it's very good, it looks like this person has replaced the entire led panel/digitiser/housing in one go, rather than just the housing?
My screen is just fine, so I only need to replace the housing part.
The hardest bit looks like separating the screen from the housing from what i've read, and this is what I can't find a tutorial for, only some images on youtube suggesting to use a hairdryer to help with the proceedings!!
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, the link is for the whole unit, but would give you some pointers. I am not as familar with the Samsung build, but with the HTC I know that between the LCD housing and the LCD/digitiser itself is applied through adhesive (most phones are) that is put into a temperature oven for 10 minutes to soften the adhesive. This is based on the HTC Official Service videos. I am not sure if the same will apply to Samsung phones.
But then again, as it is an expensive phone, it may be ideal for you to also get a quote from your local SSC or mobile phone repair agent to consider.
0semaj0 said:
Yea, the link is for the whole unit, but would give you some pointers. I am not as familar with the Samsung build, but with the HTC I know that between the LCD housing and the LCD/digitiser itself is applied through adhesive (most phones are) that is put into a temperature oven for 10 minutes to soften the adhesive. This is based on the HTC Official Service videos. I am not sure if the same will apply to Samsung phones.
But then again, as it is an expensive phone, it may be ideal for you to also get a quote from your local SSC or mobile phone repair agent to consider.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, good point. I'd be interested to hear actually what the cost would be to replace the front bezel only. It's only £30 on eBay for the front and rear housing, but i'd be willing to pay more on top for an authorised repairer to carry out the job.
That tutorial is definitely one of the more detailed ones I have seen so far though. Doesn't look like many people have tackled changing the bezel only...
Thanks
Movisman said:
Yep, good point. I'd be interested to hear actually what the cost would be to replace the front bezel only. It's only £30 on eBay for the front and rear housing, but i'd be willing to pay more on top for an authorised repairer to carry out the job.
That tutorial is definitely one of the more detailed ones I have seen so far though. Doesn't look like many people have tackled changing the bezel only...
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Movis,
What did you end up doing for your dropped phone?
I too have dropped my phone on its corner and the chrome along with the plastic is now dented.
Another one with the same problem here. I managed to create a bump on the chrome bezel.
Can I bump this post as I've also just noticed a ding in the corner of the chrome bezel was wondering if anyone had found a solution to this yet.? short of replacing the LCD/digitiser which like OPs phone are working fine. It's just cosmetic damage.
I once was in a bad mood and snapped a screen and backing/housing in half.I can't remember exactly,but I'm thinking the chrome bit may be part of the thin metal casing/housing that is glue taped onto the screen.
You separate the screen from the housing by using a hot air gun sparingly.
If you look back at a motherboard thread I was involved in,a person on here called Roger put up a great video tutorial link that may answer all your questions...
Sent from my GT-I9100
Ah cheers for the reply. Had a look at the mobo post you were involved in followed it to the link and coincidentally that's the exact video I watched last night. Very good video good detail and instructions. But its the black one he is stripping down so he makes no reference to the bezel which afaik is only used on the white ones.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
I've not seen the chrome bit listed separately,so I guess its part of the metal top housing that the LCD is glued to.I've got a white one and its got a ding on it too.
You could email Samsung to see if you can get the part,but I think its not worth risking cracking the screen and you probably couldn't resuse / would get that stupid gluey tape stuff.
Sent from my GT-I9100
Appreciate it's been a while, but this seems to be the only post that matches what happened to me, so figured I'd update with my experience.
As above, dropped and dented the bezel, screen was perfectly intact, but the dent was so severe, it actually lifted a corner of my screen up. I have intentions to sell on so I wanted to fix this and pass on.
I followed this disassembly , apart from the bit about not worrying about damaging the screen as you prise it away. The housing I ordered off ebay came with a little kit, so I warmed the screen with hairdryer for a couple of minutes, then slowly prised it away, from top to bottom, inserting the tool right down the middle as the video mentions there is a large adhesive right down the middle.
Following the vid all the way to the removal of all components, this is where I ditched my current bezel/housing and reassembled into the newly ordered one. Judging by the assembly, there is no way that a bezel could be replaced without replacing the housing, it's one whole unit, and I very much doubt the build would be that drastically different for the white SGS2.
Some things to note:
Be very careful removing the vibrate motor, the connector and natural pivot point is the weakest part (new module ordered from ebay
If you are transplanting the screen like me, have some adhesive pads in your kit as most tutorials are for new screens, and as can be seen on the vid, these come with pads intact, ready to apply
Try do it in daylight
Hope that helps anyone in a similar situation.
vyks10 said:
Appreciate it's been a while, but this seems to be the only post that matches what happened to me, so figured I'd update with my experience.
As above, dropped and dented the bezel, screen was perfectly intact, but the dent was so severe, it actually lifted a corner of my screen up. I have intentions to sell on so I wanted to fix this and pass on.
I followed this disassembly , apart from the bit about not worrying about damaging the screen as you prise it away. The housing I ordered off ebay came with a little kit, so I warmed the screen with hairdryer for a couple of minutes, then slowly prised it away, from top to bottom, inserting the tool right down the middle as the video mentions there is a large adhesive right down the middle.
Following the vid all the way to the removal of all components, this is where I ditched my current bezel/housing and reassembled into the newly ordered one. Judging by the assembly, there is no way that a bezel could be replaced without replacing the housing, it's one whole unit, and I very much doubt the build would be that drastically different for the white SGS2.
Some things to note:
Be very careful removing the vibrate motor, the connector and natural pivot point is the weakest part (new module ordered from ebay
If you are transplanting the screen like me, have some adhesive pads in your kit as most tutorials are for new screens, and as can be seen on the vid, these come with pads intact, ready to apply
Try do it in daylight
Hope that helps anyone in a similar situation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, will the heat actually damage the screen? I saw some posts mentioning about putting it into the oven and such. It sounded very intense but if it works without damaging the screen, i might give it a try. Facing the same situation as yours. Scratches and dents all over my front chrome bezel.

[Q] disassemble or screen replacement guide

Do anyone has video or pdf or wtever guide to give the instruction how to disassemble the flyer?(i am thinking to repair the flyer myself) Thank you
Here you go:
www.techrepublic.com/photos/crackin...3?seq=2&tag=content;siu-container#photo-frame
thx, but i have 1 more question, do u know how to remove the digitizer? is it the same way as other smartphone?(use hot gun and remove the digitizer?)
athris said:
thx, but i have 1 more question, do u know how to remove the digitizer? is it the same way as other smartphone?(use hot gun and remove the digitizer?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, there is a note in the techrepublic teardown about it being bonded like a smartphone. You should however be vary careful given the size of the screen more heat (not temperature) is required, and the risk of thermally cracking the underlying LCD panel is correspondingly higher.
Beware! Learn from my adventures.
So, I took apart my wife's HTC Flyer this past week to replace the screen. While the Techrepublic teardown shots are helpful, it's missing about ten steps at the end that involve actually removing the screen. I've messed around with tabletpc's and laptops before but not cell phones so wasn't really prepared for the fact that you have to pretty much take the whole Flyer apart in order to be able to get the screen off. As far as I can tell, no one else has documented taking one of these apart to replace the screen. I will write up something more involved when I get a chance but here's a couple things that I found out about the screen.
1. The part of the screen that you touch with your finger and stylus is not glass! It is a heavy plastic layer that is adhered to the glass digitizer. It is clear with the black around the edge and cutout for the HTC logo. This was the part of my screen that had chips in it. I tried to use a screen repair kit to repair the chips (which I did) but it took off the outer, darker finish in the process. So I moved to the next step, replacing the screen. I didn't know about the outer layer, otherwise that would have been much easier to replace. But, I don't think you can get that part unless you have connections with HTC.
2. The outer layer/digitizer glass comes as one part (along with the n-trig connector). I ordered mine for around $50 on ebay.
3. You will need to take the back off and much of the motherboard to be able to disconnect the n-trig connector.
4. Taking the screen off will take heat. I used a hair dryer but more heat could be better although you have to be careful of the lcd underneath. My digitizer broke while removing and ending up putting a small gouge in the lcd. I was able to fix the lcd well enough, just be careful.
5. HTC used a buttload of sticky tape to secure the glass to the lcd and case. My cheap blue pry tool quickly broke so I ended up using a plastic butter knife to separate digitizer from the case. Once off, I used Goo Be Gone to get rid of all the sticky tape from it. I'm ready to put new tape on but I'm not sure exactly what they used. Anyone have any ideas? It's a black, closed cell sticky tape that is really stringy when it comes to taking off. Most of the stuff I see for sale online seems to be really thin stuff. I picked up some Scotch Outdoor Mounting Tape by 3M that looks to be similar that I am going to experiment with. Anyone know for sure what they used?
6. I put the new digitizer on temporarily to check to see if it worked and it did (yay)! But I still need need to cut all of the tape and put it in the right spot. There are also these little plastic tabs that go on the backside of the screen. They are used to refract light from the led's to light up the outside navigation buttons. Be careful not to lose these. I did, and had to make one. We'll see how I did once I get it back together.
7. I found that there's not a lot of parts out there for these things. At least not compared to cell phones. Now that they're being discontinued, I don't know if that is going to help.
Anyway, I took a few pics along the way and will try to write something up when I get more time. I just wanted to give folks a heads-up on the screen and how it's put together. I can't imagine the View's screen is any different. So whatever they're using for the outer layer isn't Gorilla Glass. Or is it?
UPDATE:
Here are the promised photos of this disaster. I'll add the commentary tomorrow (I'm tired).
Two more comments and I can finally upload my photos.
I need to replace my LCD and Glass...anyone know where I can order these parts...I cant find them anywhere.
Hard to find parts for the Flyer/View which could be a problem. Looks like some is selling an LCD, though on eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PH-LCD-HT-2...360?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27bf8f0390 from my PG41200 using Tapatalk
I purchased mine here and it works great.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/260906551668?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Much better price. What kind of tape did you use? Also did you have to replace any of the light reflacting plastic tabs that are used to light the buttons around the outside of the digitizer?
Sent from my PG41200 using Tapatalk
Will a replacement screen for the Flyer work well on a View?
I don't see why not. Except for some of the internals, they are pretty much identical hardware wise.

[WARNING]Broken screens

Okay so I am sharing my experience for everyone. I had recently broken my screen, and I needed to replace the screen. I bought a screen digitizer off of eBay, and....Destroyed the phone sub frame. The reason I am posting is because I am warning all of you, you need to buy a full display assembly online. This includes the whole new display( glass and LCD) wires and bits, and a full subframe. Unless you are superior to an Asian 12 year old working in the factory that made your phone (hint hint, wink wink, you're not) than you need to buy a full assembly, or end up like me an destroy your phone.
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire HD using Tapatalk HD
+1.
Unfortunately, I saw this post after doing damage to my phone. The plastic housing that the digitizer /lcd sits in is verrrryyy easy to damage around the edges when you try to separate the screen. Heating it with the heat gun to get the separation actually makes it even more fragile and prone to damage. Thankfully I was able to return digitizer/lcd and get full setup from here :
http://www.etradesupply.com/oem-htc-evo-4g-lte-lcd-screen-and-digitizer-assembly-with-front-housing-and-light-guide.html
Hopefully things will go a little better this time.
Wow, that includes the plastic frame? I replaced my screen a couple of weeks ago (glass and LCD), and the edges of the frame did get slightly chewed up. It's not too bad, but I wish I had known abut this item.
On a positive note, I suppose I can get a job in China when the economy completely collapses.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
Ya my screen got waterlogged after I got trashed and left it out in the rain. Let everything dry out and thankfully all the boards and connectors work. I ended up going the cheap route and just buying a screen and not the frame. I almost successfully got the thing apart. I do have a small chip in the frame on the left side but my case covers that. I only paid around $50 but I did give myself around $50 in headaches. Definitely spend the extra $50 and just get the whole package.
If you do decide to try and separate the screen from the frame, use a lot of heat. Not necessarily high heat, but for a good duration. Get the adhesive nice and warm. Then pry it loose through one of the holes in the housing/frame (go at it from the back) and slowly work it away from the frame. Once you get it off, heat the adhesive back up and then add some 5 minute quick epoxy to the black adhesive pads in the frame. Then use some clamps and let the epoxy cure. There is a great video I followed below. It took me a while and I will probably ride with this for a minute until it bothers the hell out of me. My gf said she can't even notice.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ae52Ug8vFwA
case screen cover plastic sheet work?
I'm just wondering how many naked phones get broke compared to well protected?
Gnexd said:
I'm just wondering how many naked phones get broke compared to well protected?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a Incipio NGP case on mine all the time and I always have a screen protector installed (usually the cheap ones from Amazon). I have never had a problem with the screen until I left my phone out in the rain. The Gorilla Glass II is decently strong but only to a certain extent. I mainly use the screen protector from scratches if I accidentally put it in the same pocket as my keys.
I was afraid of breaking mine one day, fortunately for me my volume button went out first and I have Best Buys insurance and the replace the phone with no deductible.
Seems like screen issues are pretty common on this model. I'm on my 4th Evo now because the screen kept failing on me. Based on what I read it sounds like I'd never want to have to replace this myself.

Rear glass: real or fake? (On the 2nd hand phone I purchased)

I recently purchased a second hand Xperia Z2, and after about two weeks I discovered a shatter in the back. (I'm not sure when it broke because it was in a case.) Since that happened, I've had a closer look at the rear glass and I'm trying to work out whether it is original, or whether it has been replaced with a non-genuine back cover.
I've read through a number of posts discussion genuine vs non-genuine, and here is what I've noticed:
In favour of being genuine:
1. It has a SONY logo
2. The camera lens is actually a separate piece glued on to the case.
In favour of being fake:
1. The LED flash doesn't line up very well with the hole
2. There was no shatter-proof film (so far as I could tell): once the back broke, there was glass dust coming off all over the case and sharpish edges were exposed. It didn't all fall apart or anything, though.
I imagine I could tell if I actually pulled the back off, because the adhesive would probably be a giveaway. (It looks like the ones on eBay don't have the fine edge of adhesive, but rather have adhesive all over the place) but I'd rather not do that. At least, not unless I have a pretty good reason to check further.
Photo of lens/flash is attached.
Anyone have insights or thoughts? (Apart from "you're a klutz". I know that already). If you've got an XZ2 with an original back and want to post a pic of your flash alignment with the hole, I'd be curious to see it. Photos of the lens arrangement would be interesting too because my one looks a bit different to the one here - on mine the silver goes all the way to the edge, on that one it looks like the ring ends before the glued region. A lot like this one purchased from eBay.
Cheers!
(The follow-up question is: if it is a non-genuine replacement back, but I was the one to break it within a couple of weeks of getting the phone - despite it being in a cover - is it reasonable to go after the seller about it)
It seems to be a duplicate one. Its a little misaligned + the transparent glass covering the flash contains small-small rings.
The Writings part(20.7 MP...) is a little brighter than the actual. I don't know if u have used flash while taking this pic.
Th3DON said:
It seems to be a duplicate one. Its a little misaligned + the transparent glass covering the flash contains small-small rings.
The Writings part(20.7 MP...) is a little brighter than the actual. I don't know if u have used flash while taking this pic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, no flash, so I think you're right. Well spotted on the small rings on the flash too.
Pity it seems to be impossible to get a real 'genuine Z2 glass back' to replace it with.
I recently replaced my back with non-original parts, but mine is white color. So what I could notice, is that on original cover all of the grey text was a bit brighter. The fake part has noticeably darker text.
The silver ring around the camera looks like a fake plastic, what also seems to be the same in your case. + when I use the flashlight I can definitely see a square shape, but this one may be just in white models.
So I would say, based on your photo, 80% that it's a fake, especially when the led is badly aligned (even in my fake back panel it aligns well).
Sent from Xperia Z2
Luckily not from an iPhone = Yesterdays technology at tomorrows prices
This is 100% fake back plate, flash has no rings, plate color is too black, letters are too bright and printed on the glass and not inside the glass like on the original back plate. This is tue cheapest back plate you can get on ebay but there are good back plates that are almost identical to original Sony bp but are priced higher than 10 euro.
vo4LG said:
Nope, no flash, so I think you're right. Well spotted on the small rings on the flash too.
Pity it seems to be impossible to get a real 'genuine Z2 glass back' to replace it with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i got originals here in belgium but they costs me 50€ each :/ fake ones are often quite thin and only cost 10-15€.
They break sometimes after 1 hour sometime 6 days.
goodluck If its not made of glass, than often its thinner and youl feel an edge on the back of your phone
Thanks for the help everyone! Now I just need to decide whether to complain to the seller and try to return the device or not.
And that's why buying second hand phones is hit and miss I guess. Gah.
vo4LG said:
Thanks for the help everyone! Now I just need to decide whether to complain to the seller and try to return the device or not.
And that's why buying second hand phones is hit and miss I guess. Gah.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would return it if he didn't mentioned it in his auction.
Btw is your phone waterproof (pressure sensor test)?
Sent from Xperia Z2
Luckily not from an iPhone = Yesterdays technology at tomorrows prices
mr.loverlover said:
I would return it if he didn't mentioned it in his auction.
Btw is your phone waterproof (pressure sensor test)?
Sent from Xperia Z2
Luckily not from an iPhone = Yesterdays technology at tomorrows prices
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It wasn't mentioned in the auction. Unfortunately I didn't notice until 32 days after sale, so the ebay guarantee doesn't apply *frustrated*.
Doing a pressure sensor test, the pressure does go up so it is still fully sealed (which I'm pretty surprised about, to be honest). Still, if it were submerged there would be forces on the camera lens etc that just pressing on it doesn't create, so I'm still not going to try to drown it =) Probably pretty safe for a rinse though.
If I can't sort it out with the seller, I might just buy a new back, remove the lens etc from the new one, put a thin coat of epoxy resin over the broken one and sandwich the new one onto it. Hopefully having two layers will increase the strength (if not the prettiness).
vo4LG said:
It wasn't mentioned in the auction. Unfortunately I didn't notice until 32 days after sale, so the ebay guarantee doesn't apply *frustrated*.
Doing a pressure sensor test, the pressure does go up so it is still fully sealed (which I'm pretty surprised about, to be honest). Still, if it were submerged there would be forces on the camera lens etc that just pressing on it doesn't create, so I'm still not going to try to drown it =) Probably pretty safe for a rinse though.
If I can't sort it out with the seller, I might just buy a new back, remove the lens etc from the new one, put a thin coat of epoxy resin over the broken one and sandwich the new one onto it. Hopefully having two layers will increase the strength (if not the prettiness).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow. It's still water resistant. In my case the glue was so bad, that my back panel got opened so I had to use some normal glue to make it stick. I replaced the back myself, so If I were you I wouldn't touch the back panel if you don't have any problems with it.
Sent from Xperia Z2
Luckily not from an iPhone = Yesterdays technology at tomorrows prices
Thanks to everyone who responded!
One last favour: just doing a minor battle over PayPal claim that the back is not original. It would be great if someone could just take a few snaps of the back of their phone with original glass (especially if it can include the detail of the lens and flash lens, which seem to be the most obvious differences between the Sony and non-Sony rear glass). I've got plenty of stock/review photos, but it would be really helpful to have a couple which are 'real' pics rather than stock ones.
Many thanks =)
vo4LG said:
Thanks to everyone who responded!
One last favour: just doing a minor battle over PayPal claim that the back is not original. It would be great if someone could just take a few snaps of the back of their phone with original glass (especially if it can include the detail of the lens and flash lens, which seem to be the most obvious differences between the Sony and non-Sony rear glass). I've got plenty of stock/review photos, but it would be really helpful to have a couple which are 'real' pics rather than stock ones.
Many thanks =)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hope this helps, my point and shoot is out of batteries.
You can also point out the 20.7Mpix and G lens writing it is printed inside the glass and the cover is supposed to be blueish expecially when wet, like a shine trough effect.

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