Has anyone seen this car dock for the Rezound?
http://www.verizonwireless.com/b2c/...ryDetails&archetypeId=12860&accessoryId=48053
It appears to block the audio jack but it says it will charge the device. Does it somehow do audio out from the USB/MHL port?
Thanks.
I just bought this for $22 (25% corporate discount) at the Verizon corporate store here. It actually does not cover the headphone port, and leaves about 3mm, plenty for my fat cassette audio jack.
In fact, it also comes with 3 inserts: 1 for std batt cover, 1 for extended battery cover, and 1 for std w/case (!).
The USB is simply micro-usb that connects on the back, and doesn't come with USB cable or charger.
For reference, I bought the extended battery for $30 on sale, and it fits great in the mount.
Jakewill
Car mount with inductive charging.
I have so far been unable to find a car mount that has inductive charging built in. Anyone know where to get one?
Alongside a Bluetooth setup, this would be sick. No cables to worry about when you get in the car.
HTGamingPC said:
I have so far been unable to find a car mount that has inductive charging built in. Anyone know where to get one?
Alongside a Bluetooth setup, this would be sick. No cables to worry about when you get in the car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agreed... I will say that there are no cables to "worry about" with this mount, as it plugs in when you mount it.
On another note, it immediately launches the car panel app when mounted in this dock.
Jakewill
jakewill said:
Agreed... I will say that there are no cables to "worry about" with this mount, as it plugs in when you mount it.
On another note, it immediately launches the car panel app when mounted in this dock.
Jakewill
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You still have to make sure the plug goes into the jack. To me, that's not quite the same as mindlessly dropping it in; I usually have to look for at least half a second to make sure its lined up. Also, you can't have it in different orientations, you can get into trouble with 3rd party cases and it won't work with your wife's phone or your next upgrade, etc.
I was thinking to maybe make one out of a generic mount and the guts for an existing inductive mat but haven't really looked into the specifics.
I'd love to hear from anyone that can attest as to whether either of the Otterbox cases work with the inserts, and what material the inserts are made from (for possible modding).
etjrowe said:
I'd love to hear from anyone that can attest as to whether either of the Otterbox cases work with the inserts, and what material the inserts are made from (for possible modding).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
QFT. The revelation that the OEM car mount comes with different inserts for different variations of the phone's cover really surprised me. I'm hoping that it works with the Otterbox Commuter at the very least.
Post #12 here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1367241
Can anyone collaborate or refute this review.
Anyone tried to use this with a usb input on their car deck? My deck has a usb input for iPod/mp3 player, my ipod works fine if you plug it in directly to the deck with just a usb cable but will not work if you use an ipod dock, just wanna know if this is the same way.
H3Dude said:
Post #12 here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1367241
Can anyone collaborate or refute this review.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can confirm. The car dock will not charge your phone atleast not with the screen on and nothing else running but battery monitor widget.
I bought one and tested it extensively yesterday. I used a Verizon 1a charger and a generic 1a charger. With the dock and both chargerz the phone DIScharged(as in LOST battery power) at between 100ma and 200ma. Without the dock using the same chargers and changing nothing on the phone the phone charged at between 50a and 300ma.
I did the test several times to eliminate any random things the phone may have been doing in the background.
After doing that controlled test I played with it some more and no matter what I did I could not get a positive charge with the dock attached even in airplane mode with the screen backlight at minimum. Without the dock using the same chargers i ran Pandora and a police scanner both outputting through the phone speaker, gps, wifi, mobile all on, and screen on auto and still had a very small positive charge.
Moral of the story DO NOT BUY THIS DOCK unless you dont mind it just being a piece of plastic that holds your phone in place.
4 Screws and you can open it up, small circuit board with a few resistors and LED let. Could be modded with a few wirejumpers to bypass the board.
etjrowe said:
I'd love to hear from anyone that can attest as to whether either of the Otterbox cases work with the inserts, and what material the inserts are made from (for possible modding).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got my Otterbox Commuter today and tried it with the "iBolt" car dock, but as I should have guessed, they don't work together because the USB cover on the case gets in the way. The inserts for the car dock are made from polystyrene or ABS, I'm not totally sure. Probably PS because they are pretty stiff. It might be possible to chop a piece out to accommodate the case flap, but I'm returning mine and picking up a universal phone/camera mount instead. A little over-kill perhaps, but it's inexpensive and can mount my cameras too, if I feel the need lol.
http://www.amazon.com/Flexcope-Roadtrip-PlaySport-Panasonic-Recorder/dp/B004E7GF2M/ref=pd_cp_cps_2
Kane5581 said:
I can confirm. The car dock will not charge your phone atleast not with the screen on and nothing else running but battery monitor widget.
I bought one and tested it extensively yesterday. I used a Verizon 1a charger and a generic 1a charger. With the dock and both chargerz the phone DIScharged(as in LOST battery power) at between 100ma and 200ma. Without the dock using the same chargers and changing nothing on the phone the phone charged at between 50a and 300ma.
I did the test several times to eliminate any random things the phone may have been doing in the background.
After doing that controlled test I played with it some more and no matter what I did I could not get a positive charge with the dock attached even in airplane mode with the screen backlight at minimum. Without the dock using the same chargers i ran Pandora and a police scanner both outputting through the phone speaker, gps, wifi, mobile all on, and screen on auto and still had a very small positive charge.
Moral of the story DO NOT BUY THIS DOCK unless you dont mind it just being a piece of plastic that holds your phone in place.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I too can confirm the iBolt dock does not properly charge the phone. Noticed it the first time I use it on a 2 hour trip using navigation with the screen on only for half the time. Before I left the battery was at 75%. When I finally got to my destination the battery was at 10%.
Does anyone know of any other dock or a fix for this one?
---------- Post added at 05:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:47 PM ----------
MastricX said:
4 Screws and you can open it up, small circuit board with a few resistors and LED let. Could be modded with a few wirejumpers to bypass the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you refering to the iBolt car dock? Have you modded it yourself? If so, can you explain how?
http://www.craigsdocks.com/htc-rezound-car-dock-swivel-style/
I ordered one of these. I had the verizon one but returned it when I realized it was a piece of crap and wouldn't charge. I will review this one when I get it.
I received one of the VZW car docks in the mail yesterday and the first thing I did was to install it and test the charging capability. I was relieved to find that it is charging my phone. The caveat here is that I was using a charger with dual USB ports, not a regular one-piece car charger, and the USB cable I had in the truck from my old Droid X. Might that make some difference?
das0527 said:
I received one of the VZW car docks in the mail yesterday and the first thing I did was to install it and test the charging capability. I was relieved to find that it is charging my phone. The caveat here is that I was using a charger with dual USB ports, not a regular one-piece car charger, and the USB cable I had in the truck from my old Droid X. Might that make some difference?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does the charger have a output rating on it? The phone will charge with a good 1a charger if you don't use it AT All, and it will charge very slow, if even the screen is on it will drain the battery. The one I got blows this thing out of the water some people say its ugly, I don't see it, but it works out of the box. http://www.craigsdocks.com/htc-rezound-car-dock-swivel-style/
Kane, I'll check the output. I know it's charging by AC versus USB. The charger is a Scoche dual USB charger.
MastricX said:
4 Screws and you can open it up, small circuit board with a few resistors and LED let. Could be modded with a few wirejumpers to bypass the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One of my Engineer friends helped look into this a little. We are still investigating but for those that cannot STAND the constant car dock mode, if you DE-SOLDER the small chip (remove completely and do NOT bridge) labeled "R1" from the backside of the board, car dock is no longer turned on. Its an 10k resister that id's the car charger. Removing that will stop car dock from launching period. This does not affect anything else other than Car Dock Mode.
We are still testing and trying to figuring it out this. But as it stands now, there is nothing else on this board that would cause power loss. It has to be a combination of GPS (large power draw alone) + Data (Pandora) + Car Dock automatically turning on WiFi (another large power draw). WHY WiFi is turned ON in Car Dock mode, I have NO idea. Last thing I want ON when driving. :? But having those all on is drawing more currant than is being provided with a full 1A being supplied.
As one last note, most off the shelf (generic) car charges only provide 500mA's, which is absolutely NOT enough power to charge while GPS + Data + WiFe searching to charge the phone. Make sure when you purchase a charger/adapter, make sure you see the output = 5v - 1A.
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Someone at Android forums has already done the research on this and came up with the best fix for the official dock as far as the charging goes. Also, he tests different car chargers and gives an opinion on which one charges the best. A very well done thread. Worth the read.
http://androidforums.com/3754610-post104.html
http://androidforums.com/3725965-post67.html
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk
I used that thread to move forward on modding my dock. I failed shorting the pins after a drip of solder shorted ALL the pins together (whoops), but I went with another poster's method of drilling a hole for the cord to go straight to the phone. It ended up clean and simple. It was a pain in the ass to plug in the micro to the back of the dock anyway.
FYI, my experience has been that the phone overheats pretty quick (120F) with screen on, navi running, and a 1A charger providing juice. The good news is that it clears a good 400mA which provides a solid positive charge. Screen off and navi running gets rid of the heat issue for me.
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Ill upload pics of the device attached to my g1 shortly, but on to the review.
First off
Its on sale at amazon right now, and its worth every penny.
Price: $12.99
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JLL14E/ref=cm_cr_thx_view
Here is a youtube review by someone else:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WBAFsfy_HU
If i remember correctly, its 1700mah, larger than the stock g1 battery so its plenty juice to fully charge your g1 atleast once. As you can see in the video, its not very big, and its suprisingly lightweight, the g1 weighs significantly more than the charger. Hell, the box it came in weighed as much as the charger.
It takes longer to charge the charger than it does my g1, for obvious reasons, but it charges my g1 as fast as when my g1 is plugged into a wall.
Im definately picking up a 2nd one of these, for the price you just cant go wrong.
Does it really hold a full charge for the G1?
I've seen a bunch of these (I think this is the only portable charger Motorola has) here in Spain for 8$ on sale in a bargains bin at the local market, but I always thought it was intended for a much smaller battery, something like 850mah or 900...
stickman said:
Does it really hold a full charge for the G1?
I've seen a bunch of these (I think this is the only portable charger Motorola has) here in Spain for 8$ on sale in a bargains bin at the local market, but I always thought it was intended for a much smaller battery, something like 850mah or 900...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i havnt gone a complete charge on it, but earlier today i went from 17% to 85% and it was still blinking green (the charger) showing that it had above 20% battery life left, so i think it might, ill fully drain my g1 saturday morning and see if it really does give it a "full" charge and let you know.
on a side note, the charger, while being cheap in price, does NOT feel cheap in quality
if you look at the picture, the slide in the center has a bar in the center of it going left to right, its a button, you must be slightly pressing on it in order to slide the slider up, and same to retract it, so it wont accidently slide out and damage the usb tip, it actually locks into place forward and back, and the greatest thing, if you watch the video youll see, the g1 seems to have its mini usb port flipped upside down IMO, so does this charger, so it charges facing the front, the odd thing is the bottom of the charger where you plug in a mini usb to charge the charger, is right side up (opposite of top) lol
the texture of the charger feels like a OEM battery cover for a g1, smooth but without the gloss like the front of a g1
wootroot said:
i havnt gone a complete charge on it, but earlier today i went from 17% to 85% and it was still blinking green (the charger) showing that it had above 20% battery life left, so i think it might, ill fully drain my g1 saturday morning and see if it really does give it a "full" charge and let you know.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you manage to try this on Saturday?
stickman said:
Did you manage to try this on Saturday?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no my mustang broke down and i ended up relying on my g1 for most of the day, but i have to say, it was a life savor having it around, ill attempt to do it tonight, i have to go pretty far so ill use the gps and play music to kill the battery and when i get there ill attempt to charge it via the external charger
on stock battery got a full charge with power to spare, im not rocking a 2200mah, its not fully charging it, but its getting about 60% of the way there
stickman said:
Does it really hold a full charge for the G1?
... but I always thought it was intended for a much smaller battery, something like 850mah or 900...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1700mah is the one i got for 13 bucks on amazon, i believe its the only one motorola makes, but it defiantely gave me a full charge in about a hour or so (lost track of time)
definately worth the buy, even more worth it for $8 usd
Ok,
I've looked on the net for reviews and photos and nobody seems to answer my question. Is there two ports one for charging the device and one for charging say your G1?
I'm guessing it uses a special AC adapter and does it use the flip out port or is there another?
kizer said:
Ok,
I've looked on the net for reviews and photos and nobody seems to answer my question. Is there two ports one for charging the device and one for charging say your G1?
I'm guessing it uses a special AC adapter and does it use the flip out port or is there another?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
as seen in the picture, when you slide the center up, the mini usb comes out of the top, its viewable from the top if you look straight down at it, so it just simply slides out to be able to plug into the phone
on the bottom of the charger, is a mini usb port, just like on the g1, it doesnt have a cover, nor does it flip out, its simply there
basically:
use your g1's charger and plug it into bottom of motorola charger, and plug motorola charger into g1 and youll have both charging at the same time in a straight line, watch the video posted in my first post after reading this and it should all make sence
and no, there is no special adapter, nor a special charger, it comes with a charger, but its no different than the charger that came with your g1, and it works when being charged off of a usb 2.0 port on your computer/laptop
@wootroot
Thanks for the clarification. I wanted to watch the YouTube video, but the tech guys at my work do not allow us to view YouTube videos. I planned on watching it when I got home, but figured after a bit of looking around on the net asking a question couldn't hurt and it worked great.
Thanks
yeah no problem, the only reason i suggested to watch the video is incase my description was unclear, i couldnt think of any other way to describe the charger
I did figure out way around the YouTube block. Put
PWN in front of the YouTube domain in the address and you can download the video opposed to stream.
My reasoning for purchasing this is simple. I 4wheel a lot and I no longer have a cigerette lighter in my Jeep because I turned my Cigerette lighter power lead into a feed to power my in cab winch controller.
Now with this I have a power source for my phone beyond the normal battery when I use the GPS.
However I did some looking around beause I'd personally need a longer cord because I couldn't do the device to device thing because I know it would get broke. Found some mini usb to mini usb extensions on the net. Ebay wanted $25 a cable, but you can find them cheaper. I'm guessing shorter the wire less line loss, but we are not talking 10+ feet here. Just 1 to 3 feet.
http://www.usbfirewire.com/uextendminib.html
http://www.angledcables.com/nonangled3.html
http://sewelldirect.com/usb2extensioncable.asp
http://www.l-com.com/productfamily.aspx?id=6539
Anyways I just wanted to share.
yeah and you can get a splitter cable to charge more than one device, ie bluetooth
I bought one of these the day I bought my G1 at a T-Mobile store no less. They were getting rid of them and had them on sale for 15 dollars each. Sadly after 9 months I broke it. I had it plugged in and oops I knocked it off the G1 and the adapter piece bent. It still holds a charge and charges my phone but I want one with a cord so it doesn't happen again. Anyone seen the HTC portable batteries?
neoobs said:
I bought one of these the day I bought my G1 at a T-Mobile store no less. They were getting rid of them and had them on sale for 15 dollars each. Sadly after 9 months I broke it. I had it plugged in and oops I knocked it off the G1 and the adapter piece bent. It still holds a charge and charges my phone but I want one with a cord so it doesn't happen again. Anyone seen the HTC portable batteries?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no i havnt where do i find these?
They were on T-Mobiles website
Staples
I have used this for about 1 1/2 years now. FANTASTIC.
Staples seem to have them on clearance for as low as $6. I have a friend of mine in NY buying 4 of them for me. Since I commute by train, it is so nice to have a way to charge or top-off my G1.
I plug two of them together when charging.
No Cables..thats what I love.
Daisy Chaining chargers. Thats funny as heck. Never would of thought of that.
scottep1964 said:
I have used this for about 1 1/2 years now. FANTASTIC.
Staples seem to have them on clearance for as low as $6. I have a friend of mine in NY buying 4 of them for me. Since I commute by train, it is so nice to have a way to charge or top-off my G1.
I plug two of them together when charging.
No Cables..thats what I love.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you know your a G1 addict when you have to chain together external chargers
especially if you already have a 2600mah battery! haha, id do it though
I know we've already had threads about this before, but seeing as how no one ever had a solution to this issue i thought i'd check back in again and see.
overview: the problem when you use a USB car charger dongle, like this one:
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is that it will register as "charging USB" and will charge much much slower then if it was doing it via "charging AC".
I know that if you open one of those things up and short out the 2 data connectors that will resolve the issue... but does anyone know of any of these that are already setup & ready to go to allow the "charging AC" mode and charge our phones normally?
I have this Belkin USB car charger and it not only registers and charges as A/C it keeps up with using nav and listening to books in the car.
Belkin
And I also have this one that does the same
iPhone Universal
Can someone show me a screenshot of the "charging USB" and "charging AC" indicators? The RZD is my second HTC phone and I've read mentions of these two different states of charging, but I've never noticed any indicator that I was getting anything other than an "AC" charge. That said, the OEM HTC car chargers supposedly supply a full 1A because the D+ and D- pins are shorted. I have one on the way and when I get it in a few days, I will report on my findings. Assuming that I can tell which mode my phone is charging in when I connect it.
Apsalus said:
Can someone show me a screenshot of the "charging USB" and "charging AC" indicators? The RZD is my second HTC phone and I've read mentions of these two different states of charging, but I've never noticed any indicator that I was getting anything other than an "AC" charge. That said, the OEM HTC car chargers supposedly supply a full 1A because the D+ and D- pins are shorted. I have one on the way and when I get it in a few days, I will report on my findings. Assuming that I can tell which mode my phone is charging in when I connect it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No time to upload screenshots right now but if you go into Settings > About Phone > Battery and right at the top it will say
Not Charging
Charging A/C
Charging USB
Depending on what you are doing and how it is hooked up.
This is an easy fix and it should work on most chargers that have this problem.
I had this problem with the Griffin PowerJolt Dual Universal Micro that I bought for my TouchPro2. To fix it all you have to do is open up the housing (make sure you don't lose any parts, some are under tension and have the tendency to fly away) and solder together the two middle solder points on the usb connector. I have attached an image of what you should look for.Just make sure you do not accidentally solder to either pin 1 or 4 as they are the +V and -V. Once you solder the middle pins together you should be able to reassemble the charger and you phone should see it as an ac charger and will be able to charge faster. Let me know if this works for you.
icy1899 said:
This is an easy fix and it should work on most chargers that have this problem.
I had this problem with the Griffin PowerJolt Dual Universal Micro that I bought for my TouchPro2. To fix it all you have to do is open up the housing (make sure you don't lose any parts, some are under tension and have the tendency to fly away) and solder together the two middle solder points on the usb connector. I have attached an image of what you should look for.Just make sure you do not accidentally solder to either pin 1 or 4 as they are the +V and -V. Once you solder the middle pins together you should be able to reassemble the charger and you phone should see it as an ac charger and will be able to charge faster. Let me know if this works for you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i'll have to get another dongle and try that. what i did try was cutting open a micro USB cable and disconnecting the green & white cables(data), putting it back together and trying it out but then it still said "charging USB" and didn't seem to make a difference.
NilsP said:
I have this Belkin USB car charger and it not only registers and charges as A/C it keeps up with using nav and listening to books in the car.
Belkin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are a lot of reviews from the above that say it still charges via USB only and not A/C. Seems hit or miss.
It may depend on how much power the charger supplies. Some may not give a full 1A and some dual charger may only give .5A per port.
voxigenboy said:
i'll have to get another dongle and try that. what i did try was cutting open a micro USB cable and disconnecting the green & white cables(data), putting it back together and trying it out but then it still said "charging USB" and didn't seem to make a difference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You have to short them, so hook them together!
NilsP said:
I have this Belkin USB car charger and it not only registers and charges as A/C it keeps up with using nav and listening to books in the car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you mean by keeps up with nav and listening to books?
I'm hoping I can navigate my phone's mp3s using my car stereo. I tried plugging it into the car's usb port that works for my ipod but it didn't read anything when I went to the usb tab on my car's screen.
I've ordered that Belkin charger based on your suggestion in the audio thread but haven't received it yet. Hoping that's what you're talking about and that I'll be able to see my mp3 library on my car's screen. Of course I suppose it depends on the audio system or car. I have a Gen 3 Prius with stock stereo that came with the navigation.
feralicious said:
What do you mean by keeps up with nav and listening to books?
I'm hoping I can navigate my phone's mp3s using my car stereo. I tried plugging it into the car's usb port that works for my ipod but it didn't read anything when I went to the usb tab on my car's screen.
I've ordered that Belkin charger based on your suggestion in the audio thread but haven't received it yet. Hoping that's what you're talking about and that I'll be able to see my mp3 library on my car's screen. Of course I suppose it depends on the audio system or car. I have a Gen 3 Prius with stock stereo that came with the navigation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The charger is just for charging. Once you plug your usb cable into it you will not be connected to the stereo.
I use the charger for charging, the BT for the phone to car stereo, and the aux jack for listening to Audible books in the car. The nav I was refering to is the Google Maps for GPS navigation which outputs sound over my aux connection.
NilsP said:
The charger is just for charging. Once you plug your usb cable into it you will not be connected to the stereo.
I use the charger for charging, the BT for the phone to car stereo, and the aux jack for listening to Audible books in the car. The nav I was refering to is the Google Maps for GPS navigation which outputs sound over my aux connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay, thanks. Doesn't look like I'll be seeing my phone's mp3 library on my car's navi screen.
I forgot to update this thread. I got the HTC CC C300 dual port charger and it does provide the juice for AC charging. Cruising down the road, it was pushing a little under 850mAh into my near-dead battery. The model number is 99H10128-00.
If you can live with only one port, the single port HTC charger does AC charging as well. The cheapest that I've seen it is here, as a "T-Mobile myTouch" branded unit. http://www.amazon.com/HTC-T-Mobile-...UTF8&coliid=I3F2IGEKMH21XF&colid=CYR5AB72ZMIK
NilsP said:
I have this Belkin USB car charger and it not only registers and charges as A/C it keeps up with using nav and listening to books in the car.
Belkin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FYI, I bought this on your recommendation and it DOES NOT charge in AC mode with the Galaxy Nexus LTE.
UPDATE. I think I found the problem. There must be a variation in actual vehicle DC outlets. The Belkin and myTouch chargers mentioned in this thread both charge in AC mode in my wife's VW. They do not in my Ford F150. So basically its a crap shoot Good luck.
???
I am surprised no one has simply pointed out that a power inverter will do the job. They are perpetually at $15-$20 on NewEgg. It will give you an A/C plug, which you can then use to charge your phone at 1A.
jdmba said:
I am surprised no one has simply pointed out that a power inverter will do the job. They are perpetually at $15-$20 on NewEgg. It will give you an A/C plug, which you can then use to charge your phone at 1A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah but its ugly and bulky
Welp
couchmonkey said:
yeah but its ugly and bulky
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It don't gotta sit on your lap
In reality, it is the only solution to the OP's question, as it is unlikely that any of the car chargers will put out 1A. Again, was just surprised no one offered the only solution, aesthetics aside.
Hohlraum said:
FYI, I bought this on your recommendation and it DOES NOT charge in AC mode with the Galaxy Nexus LTE.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure if your post is meant to inform or complain, but his rec was posted in the Rezound accessories forum and that's the phone he confirmed it working on.
I just checked it on my Rezound in my Prius and it DOES charge in AC mode, so thanks Nils!
jdmba said:
In reality, it is the only solution to the OP's question, as it is unlikely that any of the car chargers will put out 1A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The AC charger included with the RZD and both of the car chargers that I posted push ~980mAh to my phone. Is a full 1A even possible?
An easier fix is to flash incredikernel and use the usb fast charge option.
I had previously made a wireless charging car dock by combining the internals from the LG wcp-700 with an iBolt Alumina ProDock, it worked well for me but wasn't pretty and required 120v power. I had 120v power in my work truck, but I needed a solution for the wife's car, which doesn't.
So, I was finally able to pick up a couple of the Nokia dt-900 charging pads. They were out of stock everywhere around me so eBay was kind enough to provide some for me.
To start, I popped open the nokia charger and it looks like this. The board and charging coils are all one unit that is fastened with screws to the base of the pad.
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I needed to lose the base to save the thickness, so I removed the screws and used 3m mounting tape to hold the board/coils to the face of the pad.
Then I removed the small cover plate from the car dock, again to save thickness. Never mind all the holes cut in the car dock, that was for the previous version.
Then I just used more 3m mounting tape to hold the charging par to the dock, and this is what we have. All that's left is to wire it up to 12v power, it only takes .75a so you won't need anything special. I wired off of the constant power for the stereo with an inline fuse. I wanted constant power so the phone could charge with the key off.
Not exactly elegant, but it's much better than my last version. The reason for all the thickness reduction was so that the arms of the car dock would be long enough to hold the phone with a case on it, an Otterbox Commuter case to be exact. And it works quite well, here a video of me testing with the wife's phone in the case. It's a little awkward to get in the dock because with the case, it's a very snug fit in this dock, definitely wouldn't hold anything larger.
http://youtu.be/Wl3ZFquNqJE
So, I think it worked out okay and was pretty simple to do. It's a little costly with the dock being $30 and the charger being $50, but it's worth it to me to save plugging the phone in 10 or more times a day. I have had more than a couple phones usb ports get broken from abuse over the years, so if I can reduce that risk and add some usefulness, I certainly will.
Really nice job:good: I'm curious how it does on charging? I guess what i want to know is does it actually charge well when streaming music using nav and say making a call heavy load i guess ????
Looks awesome! Nice work. Two questions though -- what brand of dock is that and where did you get it?
I'm currently using the Nokia charger in my car with a power inverter. That works fine enough for me and I intend to stick with it rather than hard wiring. However, my mounting solution leaves something to be desired. I'm using an Exomount right now. I just put the Nokia pad in between the clamps and then set the phone over it. It works okay when driving, but each time I take the phone out, the Nokia falls out as well. Would love to pick up the same mount you have.
Thanks for the kind words, as far as charging speed goes, it's about equal to the cheap car chargers. I have no problem streaming Pandora all day and taking 20-30 bluetooth calls through the stereo. I don't use navigation much, but I think if you were running nav while streaming with the screen on high brightness, you would be lucky to hold power.
The dock is from iBolt, called the Prodock Alumina. It's about $30 on Amazon right now, that and a little mounting tape is all you'll need.
Sent from the Home Depot toilet
I too cracked open my nokia charger just to see what the insides were like(we all do this right?). Its basically the same insides as the palm touchstones, but just much larger, in the palm charger it was a small coil, maybe 1" in diameter. So it got me thinking, as they were both basically the same coil, just exactly how hard would it be to create your own coil. Like say you use that charger, find whatever wire you would use for this application, remove the existing coils and splice in your own. I need to research a little more, mainly what type of wire is needed, but it looks like you could maybe splice into the existing wires from the nokia board and just make your own, larger coil. I would try, but I don't want to mess around too much with my $50 charger lol.
From my understanding the tech isn't too complicated, its just an alternating magnetic field between the charger and phone that is what does the actual charging. Its not some magical stuff, just a current running through a wire. Maybe the larger the coil the bigger the current need, I don't know, anyone else want to try this
rhettnis said:
I too cracked open my nokia charger just to see what the insides were like(we all do this right?). Its basically the same insides as the palm touchstones, but just much larger, in the palm charger it was a small coil, maybe 1" in diameter. So it got me thinking, as they were both basically the same coil, just exactly how hard would it be to create your own coil. Like say you use that charger, find whatever wire you would use for this application, remove the existing coils and splice in your own. I need to research a little more, mainly what type of wire is needed, but it looks like you could maybe splice into the existing wires from the nokia board and just make your own, larger coil. I would try, but I don't want to mess around too much with my $50 charger lol.
From my understanding the tech isn't too complicated, its just an alternating magnetic field between the charger and phone that is what does the actual charging. Its not some magical stuff, just a current running through a wire. Maybe the larger the coil the bigger the current need, I don't know, anyone else want to try this
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be interested to try something like this, trying to create a bigger "sweet spot" for the phone to rest. The Nokia version, as you all can see has 3 coils and it is pretty forgiving as to placement. The LG version on the other hand only has one coil, and in my experience was a bit temperamental about phone placement, especially with a case on it. You'd have to find out what the exact spec is for the wire, then you could freely experiment with different sized coils. I have no idea if this wire is special so someone smarter would need to figure that out.
JTNiggle said:
I'd be interested to try something like this, trying to create a bigger "sweet spot" for the phone to rest. The Nokia version, as you all can see has 3 coils and it is pretty forgiving as to placement. The LG version on the other hand only has one coil, and in my experience was a bit temperamental about phone placement, especially with a case on it. You'd have to find out what the exact spec is for the wire, then you could freely experiment with different sized coils. I have no idea if this wire is special so someone smarter would need to figure that out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed the nokia charger has decent amount of give when it comes to placement. For future reference, the size of the sweet spot on my wooden nightstand is 6.5"x3.5", and keep in my that's all while going through what id say is probably 1/8" of wood, and the fit isn't exactly flush with the bottom of the board. The size of the spot is great for easy placement considering the DNA is just a little over 5.5"x2.5", so I have nearly 1" of space to play with.
Id like to see someone find how large the "sweet spot" is for a single coil while going through different materials too. That way we can find out how much area a single coil can cover or see if overlapping them(like the nokia) can make a difference in terms of area coverage. So that way if we ever want to create something like an entire charging surface on a desk we can know if a single large coil would be need, or just a few well placed small coils would be suffice.
I might post a picture stand, but its not pretty lol. It was just something is just decided to do on a whim, and is still a little rough, but it works really well.
Comparing the Nokia 3 coils to the LG 1 coil, it's obvious that the LG sucks.
The LG pad is probably .75" larger than the phone in each direction, but I only have about .25" of forgiveness from center. It's a pretty small sweet spot. This is with a commuter case on though, I'm sure it's better naked. Because of this, I switched to the Nokia dt-910 for the night stand, plus it holds the phone up so I can see my alarm to hit the snooze.
Sent from the Home Depot toilet
Curious how you are powering this JTNiggle?
I know the pad gets 12v from the included charging brick. Do you have a regulated 12v source? Or does the charging pad seem to deal with the 14+V you get while your car is running? If it can deal with the extra voltage, that'd be pretty awesome. Just a straight wire to either a CIG plug for portability or even to a fused source for permanent install.
I really want to make something like this. I never use the charging pad for many of the reasons listed around the net. Esp for end of the day things when my battery is pretty low and I want to keep using. I have found some regulated DC-DC set ups. The ones that come with multiple tips...but I havent checked to see if one will fit the charging pad.
Oh..one other question... When you assembled the charging pad, is the 3M tape between the cover and the coils? Or is it between the cover and the back of the board. If its between the cover and coils, do you think you could get it back apart again if you wanted or would it destroy the coils?
J.
ghettocruiser said:
Curious how you are powering this JTNiggle?
I know the pad gets 12v from the included charging brick. Do you have a regulated 12v source? Or does the charging pad seem to deal with the 14+V you get while your car is running? If it can deal with the extra voltage, that'd be pretty awesome. Just a straight wire to either a CIG plug for portability or even to a fused source for permanent install.
I really want to make something like this. I never use the charging pad for many of the reasons listed around the net. Esp for end of the day things when my battery is pretty low and I want to keep using. I have found some regulated DC-DC set ups. The ones that come with multiple tips...but I havent checked to see if one will fit the charging pad.
Oh..one other question... When you assembled the charging pad, is the 3M tape between the cover and the coils? Or is it between the cover and the back of the board. If its between the cover and coils, do you think you could get it back apart again if you wanted or would it destroy the coils?
J.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's wired direct, in line with the stereo constant power. I only see 12.6 to 13.1 volts there, the pad has had zero trouble.
The mounting tape is between the coils and the face as well as between the board and the car dock. The tape isn't that strong, it's rated for about 2lbs with a 4" strip and only used 1.5". I was able to disassemble the first version vairly easy.
Sent from the Home Depot toilet
JTNiggle said:
I had previously made a wireless charging car dock by combining the internals from the LG wcp-700 with an iBolt Alumina ProDock, it worked well for me but wasn't pretty and required 120v power. I had 120v power in my work truck, but I needed a solution for the wife's car, which doesn't.
So, I was finally able to pick up a couple of the Nokia dt-900 charging pads. They were out of stock everywhere around me so eBay was kind enough to provide some for me.
To start, I popped open the nokia charger and it looks like this. The board and charging coils are all one unit that is fastened with screws to the base of the pad.
I needed to lose the base to save the thickness, so I removed the screws and used 3m mounting tape to hold the board/coils to the face of the pad.
Then I removed the small cover plate from the car dock, again to save thickness. Never mind all the holes cut in the car dock, that was for the previous version.
Then I just used more 3m mounting tape to hold the charging par to the dock, and this is what we have. All that's left is to wire it up to 12v power, it only takes .75a so you won't need anything special. I wired off of the constant power for the stereo with an inline fuse. I wanted constant power so the phone could charge with the key off.
Not exactly elegant, but it's much better than my last version. The reason for all the thickness reduction was so that the arms of the car dock would be long enough to hold the phone with a case on it, an Otterbox Commuter case to be exact. And it works quite well, here a video of me testing with the wife's phone in the case. It's a little awkward to get in the dock because with the case, it's a very snug fit in this dock, definitely wouldn't hold anything larger.
http://youtu.be/Wl3ZFquNqJE
So, I think it worked out okay and was pretty simple to do. It's a little costly with the dock being $30 and the charger being $50, but it's worth it to me to save plugging the phone in 10 or more times a day. I have had more than a couple phones usb ports get broken from abuse over the years, so if I can reduce that risk and add some usefulness, I certainly will.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great Job...Glad to see more interested in expanding the wireless charging spots. have a question about you running power to constant power, did you put a power switch between that connection? The pads etc do draw power even when not in use, they just use less then say a a/c wall adapter for old way of charging.
It's like any electronic that can be controlled by a remote, even though the unit is off, it stills draws power to be on standby to be able to receive the remote command. As these pads are always looking for that Handshake to start sending power to receiver of the Wireless Charger. This is the only way it would be able to activate itself....Eventually draining your vehicle battery....
Thanks and good luck...
---------- Post added at 01:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:32 AM ----------
JTNiggle said:
I'd be interested to try something like this, trying to create a bigger "sweet spot" for the phone to rest. The Nokia version, as you all can see has 3 coils and it is pretty forgiving as to placement. The LG version on the other hand only has one coil, and in my experience was a bit temperamental about phone placement, especially with a case on it. You'd have to find out what the exact spec is for the wire, then you could freely experiment with different sized coils. I have no idea if this wire is special so someone smarter would need to figure that out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah the only units that would be able to have a larger area to accept charging is the multi coiled pads. The simple basics for Induction Power is that the Receiving Coil is of Exact Size of the Transmitting Coil. This was proven by Tesla over 100 years ago and hasn't changed that Basic need since then.
The Palm Touchstone coil in battery cover is just under the size of the Charger Disc you put the phone on. The Touchstones don't have a circuit board in the design as do other Designs which is needed to do the Handshake between the receiver and Transmitter parts so that charging begins in order to make this safe and not activate by something metal etc coming in contact with the charger.
Like placing a induction abled phone on a Induction Cooktop, it will detect that it is induction and metal parts inside the phone and it may start up but then shut down which is a Good thing for your phone not becoming a melted hunk of junk...LOL...
Someone put a kila-watt device on a charging pad, and said that it drew 0 across the board until the phone was placed on it. Here's the link.
http://forums.wpcentral.com/nokia-l...ing-plate-not-power-vampire-thanks-nokia.html
Hoping that is true, because I wasnt going to put a switch on mine in the car. I still think I might just install a cig plug on mine in case I take my wifes car and want the mount. But maybe Ill get a cig plug with a switch built in so I dont have to unplug. I have a jetta...so it has all sorts of power feeds that act in different ways (always on, on with key, on for a timed period, etc).
I was just concerned about seeing the close to or over 14 volts when running. But its sounding like that might not be an issue. I measured the output of the wireless pad's power brick and it was a pretty constant 12.19 volts. I cant wait to tinker with this.
J.
ghettocruiser said:
Someone put a kila-watt device on a charging pad, and said that it drew 0 across the board until the phone was placed on it. Here's the link.
http://forums.wpcentral.com/nokia-l...ing-plate-not-power-vampire-thanks-nokia.html
Hoping that is true, because I wasnt going to put a switch on mine in the car. I still think I might just install a cig plug on mine in case I take my wifes car and want the mount. But maybe Ill get a cig plug with a switch built in so I dont have to unplug. I have a jetta...so it has all sorts of power feeds that act in different ways (always on, on with key, on for a timed period, etc).
I was just concerned about seeing the close to or over 14 volts when running. But its sounding like that might not be an issue. I measured the output of the wireless pad's power brick and it was a pretty constant 12.19 volts. I cant wait to tinker with this.
J.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, Sorry their are people out there that refuse to listen or believe Tested Facts and push their own Opinions as Facts...lol...Below I got the info for you from the Qi standard Group and other Groups also supply the Technical Specs on this Technology...Enjoy..
*********************************************************************
Wireless Power Efficiency
The energy consumption of battery chargers has two main contributors: charging efficiency and standby power consumption.
STANDBY POWER CONSUMPTION
Unfortunately, many people leave the chargers and cradles connected to mains power when the charger is not used. The standby power consumption (also called “no-load power consumption”) is significant. A simple calculation shows that power consumed in standby mode is about the same as the energy consumed when loading the battery.
We assume that many people will also keep their wireless battery chargers continuously plugged into the mains. One of our main design goals was, therefore, minimize standby power. Go low!
We did go low. In the mean time we have demonstrated a system with only 0.0001 Watt (100 µW) standby power consumption. And that is probably not the bottom.
An estimate of power consumption by wireless chargers.
WHAT ABOUT WIRELESS CHARGERS?
Our wireless chargers also contain an AC-DC power adapter. Let’s assume that is has the same efficiency (72%). Let’s also assumes that it has the same standby power (0.12 W). [footnote: Wireless chargers can have a much lower standby power, but this keeps the comparison easier.] The transfer efficiency of the wireless power link is typically 70%. And assume that the wireless charger replaces 2 wired chargers. The total energy consumption is:
•charging: 1 hours * 4 W / 72% / 70% = 7.9 Wh (we are now charging 2 devices simultaneously)
•standby (no load): 23 hours * 0.12 W = 2.8 Wh
http://www.wirelesspowerconsortium.com/technology/total-energy-consumption.html
---------- Post added at 10:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:39 AM ----------
http://www.a4wp.org/Business White Paper - A4WP.pdf
http://www.a4wp.org/IEEE IMS2012 LC WPT Technical Paper.pdf
http://www.a4wp.org
Here is a Company I have done Business with for years with My Business, they have The modules for Auto, Furniture and My Favorite I've been using, Wireless charging for Drill Cases and tools on the Shelves in my Company Vans....
http://www.leggettecoupled.com/
ghettocruiser said:
Someone put a kila-watt device on a charging pad, and said that it drew 0 across the board until the phone was placed on it. Here's the link.
http://forums.wpcentral.com/nokia-l...ing-plate-not-power-vampire-thanks-nokia.html
Hoping that is true, because I wasnt going to put a switch on mine in the car. I still think I might just install a cig plug on mine in case I take my wifes car and want the mount. But maybe Ill get a cig plug with a switch built in so I dont have to unplug. I have a jetta...so it has all sorts of power feeds that act in different ways (always on, on with key, on for a timed period, etc).
I was just concerned about seeing the close to or over 14 volts when running. But its sounding like that might not be an issue. I measured the output of the wireless pad's power brick and it was a pretty constant 12.19 volts. I cant wait to tinker with this.
J.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
easiest way to check if it's still receiving power while the car is off is simply place the phone on the dock and see if it charges with the engine off. if it's wired with the stereo's negative wire as well (you only stated wired to the constant power) than it wont receive power until the car is on acc. or on anyways. that should calm down anyone's fears about it draining the car's battery while you're gone.
ML417 said:
easiest way to check if it's still receiving power while the car is off is simply place the phone on the dock and see if it charges with the engine off. if it's wired with the stereo's negative wire as well (you only stated wired to the constant power) than it wont receive power until the car is on acc. or on anyways. that should calm down anyone's fears about it draining the car's battery while you're gone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He wanted to have power always, that's why he chose the constant-on on the head unit which is always hot to keep clock and/or memory or Like My Jeep's Infotainment that has to have a constant on so the Hard drive can shut down properly etc.
But that Kill-a-watt post he read, the guy tested it and it shows 0.00...
***************************************************
The Manual for the Kill-a-Watt ez:
Kilowatt-Hour display:
1. To display the total consumed power in Kilowatt-Hours, press the MENU key until “KWH” is indicated in the display.
2. Consumption will be displayed in Kilowatt-Hours (from 0.01 KWH to 9999 KWH). As KWH accumulate, the decimal point in the display will shift to accommodate a full reading.
*****************************************************
The problem is the reader only reads to a 0.01 kwh which this unit is for Home meter testing of kwh usage times Power company rates...
And the tester needs to read down to: From the test site and results from the lowest possible/available from their design tests:
(we have demonstrated a system with only 0.0001 Watt (100 µW) standby power consumption)
I DEF wont be wiring it to constant on power. It'll be switched. My little insert about my jetta was just me brainstorming...that car has some power circuits that are on timers. So without the keys, you can turn on the stereo for a pre-determinted time, etc. A few more options if I decided to hardwire. Having a switch on the power plug would be nice if I use my wife's car, as both her cig lighters are constant on.
In the end...Ill be wiring mine to a plug so I can move it from car to car easily. Just like a GPS. I just picked up a regulated DC-DC adapter that Im going to test. Says it holds 12 via IC control, and it comes with a tip that SHOULD plug right into the power pad. We'll see. I can always fall back on wiring it straight.
And the link I posted...That guy's test is still pretty useful. Its showing that its not exactly sapping energy when not in use. I guess some other charger power bricks pull some measurable power when left plugged in..? I think .0001 watts is pretty insignificant dont you? Even if wired straight to the battery it would take quite a while to drain it any significant amount. Unless Im misunderstanding things...which happens more than I like to admit
Regardless, it wont be wired to any constant source, at least in my car. So it should be good. I cant wait to get my mount and try to fit everything together. Little projects like this are fun!
J.
ghettocruiser said:
I DEF wont be wiring it to constant on power. It'll be switched. My little insert about my jetta was just me brainstorming...that car has some power circuits that are on timers. So without the keys, you can turn on the stereo for a pre-determinted time, etc. A few more options if I decided to hardwire. Having a switch on the power plug would be nice if I use my wife's car, as both her cig lighters are constant on.
In the end...Ill be wiring mine to a plug so I can move it from car to car easily. Just like a GPS. I just picked up a regulated DC-DC adapter that Im going to test. Says it holds 12 via IC control, and it comes with a tip that SHOULD plug right into the power pad. We'll see. I can always fall back on wiring it straight.
And the link I posted...That guy's test is still pretty useful. Its showing that its not exactly sapping energy when not in use. I guess some other charger power bricks pull some measurable power when left plugged in..? I think .0001 watts is pretty insignificant dont you? Even if wired straight to the battery it would take quite a while to drain it any significant amount. Unless Im misunderstanding things...which happens more than I like to admit
Regardless, it wont be wired to any constant source, at least in my car. So it should be good. I cant wait to get my mount and try to fit everything together. Little projects like this are fun!
J.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah just find the RAP Fuse etc, (Retain Accessory Power) and connect their...It works great. You may even have the Option like My Jeep does and change the Time-out minutes to suit your needs.....Yeah what he did was Great, and I did give him a Compliment on his work, problem is just that the Kill-a-Watt is for A/C power meter tests/results and the device being tested is D/C power...kWh is a measure of energy, whilst kW is a measure of power...
•a kW is 1000 W and a W is 0.001 kW;
•a kWh is 1000 Wh and a Wh is 0.001 kWh;
•a MW (megawatt) is 1000 kW and a kW is 0.001 MW;
•a MWh (megawatt hour) is 1000 kWh and a kWh is 0.001 MWh
Yeah this is Fun Stuff isn't it???/ LOL...right now I'm doing custom install of a double charger and a single charger, wireless chargers, in my jeep. I'm Hiding the double charger to the underside of the tray inside the center Console and single charger underside of the Tray on Driver's side. You won't be able to see that their is a charger in each location....
Like to see what you do when you get it up and going....
sircody said:
Great Job...Glad to see more interested in expanding the wireless charging spots. have a question about you running power to constant power, did you put a power switch between that connection? The pads etc do draw power even when not in use, they just use less then say a a/c wall adapter for old way of charging.
It's like any electronic that can be controlled by a remote, even though the unit is off, it stills draws power to be on standby to be able to receive the remote command. As these pads are always looking for that Handshake to start sending power to receiver of the Wireless Charger. This is the only way it would be able to activate itself....Eventually draining your vehicle battery....
Thanks and good luck...
---------- Post added at 01:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:32 AM ----------
Yeah the only units that would be able to have a larger area to accept charging is the multi coiled pads. The simple basics for Induction Power is that the Receiving Coil is of Exact Size of the Transmitting Coil. This was proven by Tesla over 100 years ago and hasn't changed that Basic need since then.
The Palm Touchstone coil in battery cover is just under the size of the Charger Disc you put the phone on. The Touchstones don't have a circuit board in the design as do other Designs which is needed to do the Handshake between the receiver and Transmitter parts so that charging begins in order to make this safe and not activate by something metal etc coming in contact with the charger.
Like placing a induction abled phone on a Induction Cooktop, it will detect that it is induction and metal parts inside the phone and it may start up but then shut down which is a Good thing for your phone not becoming a melted hunk of junk...LOL...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do not have a switch for this charger wired in, I did not see the need. The amount of power that this unit draws while not charging is very minimal and the vehicle is driven daily, so we have not had any trouble. I need to make a second one now to put back in my work truck, where I will just wire in line with the existing 12v accessory outlets as they are on 100% of the time. I just like being able to park the car and leave the phone charging if I need for a few minutes or an hour if necessary. If you have to leave the key on then you have a whole bunch of extra accessories trying to run at the same time and then you may kill your car battery trying to boost your cell battery,
For multi coil wireless chargers, I thing we will eventually see them built into all kinds of things, at least I hope so. We have that JBL charging speaker, which is way overpriced, but a more basic clock radio with charging coils on top would be nice. Not just one spot, but say the whole top had coils in it and you could set the phone anywhere. Laptops could have an area below the number pad with a coil or 3 in it, that would be great too. It seems to be useful enough that a few people here have cut wireless charger into their desk or night stands, obviously there is a desire for the tech to grow, so I'm sure it will only keep growing in the near future. I think I may end up building one into the kitchen counter for the wife, she likes to use the phone for recipes and music, so it would be great if I can find a neutral spot that isn't too likely to get wet.
JTNiggle said:
I do not have a switch for this charger wired in, I did not see the need. The amount of power that this unit draws while not charging is very minimal and the vehicle is driven daily, so we have not had any trouble. I need to make a second one now to put back in my work truck, where I will just wire in line with the existing 12v accessory outlets as they are on 100% of the time. I just like being able to park the car and leave the phone charging if I need for a few minutes or an hour if necessary. If you have to leave the key on then you have a whole bunch of extra accessories trying to run at the same time and then you may kill your car battery trying to boost your cell battery,
For multi coil wireless chargers, I thing we will eventually see them built into all kinds of things, at least I hope so. We have that JBL charging speaker, which is way overpriced, but a more basic clock radio with charging coils on top would be nice. Not just one spot, but say the whole top had coils in it and you could set the phone anywhere. Laptops could have an area below the number pad with a coil or 3 in it, that would be great too. It seems to be useful enough that a few people here have cut wireless charger into their desk or night stands, obviously there is a desire for the tech to grow, so I'm sure it will only keep growing in the near future. I think I may end up building one into the kitchen counter for the wife, she likes to use the phone for recipes and music, so it would be great if I can find a neutral spot that isn't too likely to get wet.
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Click to collapse
Check these out...I did this in my remodel about 4 years ago, these units have been available for a few years now...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDAY0GgVDWo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gpVl9nHQcnw
Here is the guys that sell it....I was lucky that it's here in Atlanta and My business allowed me to get in on the early stuff...lol
http://ecoupled.com/partners-products/products
Is there a fix or work around to the slow charging issue? If I use the stock charger and cable that came with the DNA I am fine, but my OEM Thunderbolt charger (which looks the same) and my car charger I got from Amazon (which I understand may be a knock off but had worked before on the DNA) or any other charger give me a slow charging notification.
This is a pretty big deal for me since I use my phone a lot for work. If I am in the car my phone is not charging fast enough to keep up with drain from the navigation.
I am rooted, s-off, twrp, and running Viper ROM 1.2.0. I understand HTC implemented this "feature" with the latest update. I couldn't find any info about a fix so are people just dealing with it?
Spaded21 said:
Is there a fix or work around to the slow charging issue? If I use the stock charger and cable that came with the DNA I am fine, but my OEM Thunderbolt charger (which looks the same) and my car charger I got from Amazon (which I understand may be a knock off but had worked before on the DNA) or any other charger give me a slow charging notification.
This is a pretty big deal for me since I use my phone a lot for work. If I am in the car my phone is not charging fast enough to keep up with drain from the navigation.
I am rooted, s-off, twrp, and running Viper ROM 1.2.0. I understand HTC implemented this "feature" with the latest update. I couldn't find any info about a fix so are people just dealing with it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can flash a kernel like crpalmers or zarboz's kernels with fast charging implemented. But what I recommend is buying a USB charger that wont have that issue.
Take your phone somewhere that they have a Nexus 7 or Asus tablet set up on display with the regular charger hooked up.
They sell the chargers lots of places, the Nexus 7 will be best both spec wise and it comes with a pretty nice micros USB cable but I see the transformer prime charger in more places to walk in and purchase retail brick and mortar.They're solid chargers that will deliver the power your phone will allow. You just have to be careful when using it when charging with fast charging enabled it gets warm because it's running that current through their. The OEM charger only runs about 70% of the rated current through there.
Best Buy has a RocketFish 12volt car charger micro USB with an extra USB slot for a second USB cable and device. I almost never use car chargers but I was actually impressed with the quality of this charger. Also HotTips makes a charger that's rated at 5.0 amps and I believe as long as it's not a cheap crumby USB cable it will work fine. A lot of times it's the cable itself not the charger, so I would try taking your USB cable from home to work and plugging it up to that same USB charging plug and see if you get the same slow charging icon.
Thanks for the thorough response. I tried to do some testing combining different cables and charges and the only one that consistently gives me slow charging is the car charger (which worked fine previously). I have a Transformer Prime charger and Droid Razr charger that both worked fine. My Thunderbolt charger worked when I tried this time but has given me the slow charging notification in the past.
I may have to pick up one of the car chargers you mentioned because that is the most important. My phone is running great otherwise with Viper ROM and the kernel that comes with it so I'd rather not change it.
CharliesTheMan said:
You can flash a kernel like crpalmers or zarboz's kernels with fast charging implemented. But what I recommend is buying a USB charger that wont have that issue.
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Click to collapse
I believe that forces fast charge when connected to a computer via usb. Some people have said it may fry your usb port but I don't know how true that is.
Android phones in general charge slower when connected via car charger.
this Motorola one here works fine:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000S5Q9CA
or you could always get a power inverter and then use whatever cable you want.
Get the Verizon car charger. Works fine for me..
Sent From My Htc Droid Dna...
I ordered these cables from Amazon, got them today and I'm still getting slow charging from the car charger. These are really high quality and still not working. This is pretty ridiculous, HTC should have at least made this optional.
I posted on this a while back, its the cable that causes the issue. If you open up the cable and short the data wires it works perfect. All you needs is wire strippers, electrical tape and shrink tubing.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2
arisch86 said:
I posted on this a while back, its the cable that causes the issue. If you open up the cable and short the data wires it works perfect. All you needs is wire strippers, electrical tape and shrink tubing.
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Click to collapse
Thanks for the suggestion. The cables I bought are very high quality, charging specific cables, and I'm still getting slow charging in the car. If HTC only wants to support official OEM chargers that's fine, but then they need to make an official car charger!!
Also, why does HTC only support using the OEM charger when the DNA supports Qi charging? Doesn't make "Sense"
arisch86 said:
I posted on this a while back, its the cable that causes the issue. If you open up the cable and short the data wires it works perfect. All you needs is wire strippers, electrical tape and shrink tubing.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2
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Click to collapse
I tried that with the Rezound awhile back and afterwards it still registered as 'charging USB'(aka slow charging).
P.S. that Motorola charger I mentioned above, I opened one up before and noticed it just had the 2 power cables(black & white) and they were also much thicker then the standard cables w/ all 4 wires.
When I did my cable hacks I cut the cable in half, put a piece of shrink tubing on one end reconnected the power wires, shorted the data wires on both plugs. When you do this you cannot reconnect the data wires. They must be separated. I'll post some pics in a few to show you what I mean.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2
---------- Post added at 01:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:15 PM ----------
Basically this is what you want it to look like...connect the positive and negative, you can reconnect the shielding too. Also I highly recommend soldering the wires together. Adds strength.
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Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2
You can do the cable hack shown in the post above as some non OEM chargers do not have the data wires shorted at the charger itself. You can either hack the cables, or if you need the cable for data, then modify your charger. Please make sure your charger is rated at least 800mA. Any charger rated 800mA or below will charge slow. Computer usb ports are rated 500mA and this is why it charges slow. My car's radio has a usb hook up and it also charges my phone at 500mA which is not enough if I'm calling, navigating, etc. The OEM charger is rated 1A. You can use a 2A charger as well but don't use it everyday. Higher rated chargers do charge the battery quicker, but at the expense of the long term battery life.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda app-developers app
In my testing even shorting the chargers data pins on chargers seems to be more of a miss. I've done a few and even after shorting them they still state USB mode. It mainly stems from the data pins being present in the cable itself. Two of the chargers I shorted were for a vehicle and they were rated for 2.0 amps. Also if just charging the phone yes don't use high output chargers. But if charging in the car high output won't hurt if you are using navigation, music etc...it actually needs the higher output to charge hence needing to charge at the AC rate.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2
Charging
I have this issue as well now, I never had it till the update back in Feb. I used other Android phones on my car charger and they charge just fine and it only happens with my DNA. I think there is a firmware issue that is causing this to happen.
This afternoon I hacked a cable as shown above, to use with my car charger. I'm glad to report it worked like a champ and my phone went from slow car charging to very rapid charging.
Thanks for the tip.
Sent from my HTC6435PC
I know we can't easily open the Tab 2 7" - but what if I took the charging cable, snipped it off, connected it to a wireless receiver and hid that in a silicone case?
I bought my tab as a replacement for my Pronto remote - and i want to be able to easy charge it without needing 2 hands to dock and undock - i figure it is more likely to be left charging.
Since the tab can charge off a pc at 500mah - i should be able to charge it this way, right? Thoughts?
So this does work. I am not sure if I can put it inside, but I may use copper tape and put it outside and cover with a case. I am not sure how or if I can tap into the internal charging circuit.
alphadog00 said:
So this does work. I am not sure if I can put it inside, but I may use copper tape and put it outside and cover with a case. I am not sure how or if I can tap into the internal charging circuit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I did this quick mod because i use the tab 2 in the living room as a TV remote with TouchSquid software. I was worried about the charging cable falling behind furniture or the device not getting plugged in.
The new phones all have contacts in the battery compartment where you can lay in one of the wireless receivers, but the teardown pics for the tab 2 don't show anything like this, so i took the safe approach and modified a samsung cable. Unfortunately I can't tuck this inside, and I was worried about trying to tap into the charging circuitry inside, so I am stuck with the plug on the right.
I created a bigger platform for the wireless transmitter too - the sides are higher so the tab 2 and its slight bump on the back fit down against the charging pad. And since the charging pad is now the same size, there is no problem with incorrect positioning.
So since the principle behind wireless charging is inductance, does this cause any heat? If so, how much, do you have an IR thermometer to measure?
I'd like to do this, but i have an otterbox defender case, which is sealed pretty good. I'd be worried about heat build up. Can you post a link as to how you did this?
Sent from a rooted candy bar
Zagnutty said:
So since the principle behind wireless charging is inductance, does this cause any heat? If so, how much, do you have an IR thermometer to measure?
I'd like to do this, but i have an otterbox defender case, which is sealed pretty good. I'd be worried about heat build up. Can you post a link as to how you did this?
Sent from a rooted candy bar
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It gets warm, but not hot. No warmer then a phone that is plugged in or is in use. I have not actually measured the temperature difference as it doesn't matter to me, and because the charging rate is relatively low (as registered by the the tablet) is low at about 500 ma, and the charging plate and coil are rated at under 1 amp. there is not the opportunity for that much heat anyway.
I am not sure what links you are looking for, I think the pics are pretty self explanatory. I bought the transmitter,receiver and cable off ebay - the QI receiver is for a Note 2. I cut the cable, attached red and black wires to the receiver after verifying polarity of receiver with an voltmeter. Green and white wires were soldered together and that was it.
The platform for the transmitter is a block of wood painted black, with a routed area for the transmitter.
Thanks for reply.
I am looking for a total, complete, DIY inductance charger. Completely built from scratch. I was hoping to find some info on making one from the ground up, not just simply modifying a current charger to work with our tabs.
I have found some info on building such a charger, but not specifically for our tab. My reason is because 1. I'm a cheapskate and 2. I like doing things like this.
Modifying a charger from another device is going to be easiest I think, since I haven't found anything specifically for our tabs like I had mentioned.
Thanks again. I think I will go this route and your thread will be helpful.
Sent from a rooted candy bar
My reason for off the shelf parts is re-use. The QI standard seems to be the winner. So I can always reuse the charging base with another phone and the receiver and cable were less then $15. I am not sure you could build your own for cheaper unless someone gives away some old palm parts.
alphadog00 said:
So this does work. I am not sure if I can put it inside, but I may use copper tape and put it outside and cover with a case. I am not sure how or if I can tap into the internal charging circuit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey this is interesting mod if it work Im in and as for the connecting of the receiver to the batt have you open the back cover and figure out which wire it should be connected to? heres the picture.
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taken from here
aarzoo said:
Hey this is interesting mod if it work Im in and as for the connecting of the receiver to the batt have you open the back cover and figure out which wire it should be connected to? heres the picture.
View attachment 2152008 taken from here
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Click to collapse
Yeah I have seen the pics. The problem is that chargers don't plug directly into batteries. And if you did wire it directly to the battery or USB port, what happens when you plug in a USB cable? Do you energize the charging receiver? Someone more versed in electronics would need to figure out how to do this. The phones have dedicated contacts for the wireless charger.
alphadog00 said:
Yeah I have seen the pics. The problem is that chargers don't plug directly into batteries. And if you did wire it directly to the battery or USB port, what happens when you plug in a USB cable? Do you energize the charging receiver? Someone more versed in electronics would need to figure out how to do this. The phones have dedicated contacts for the wireless charger.
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Could this help maybe? http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1663305
alphadog00 said:
The problem is that chargers don't plug directly into batteries. And if you did wire it directly to the battery or USB port, what happens when you plug in a USB cable? Do you energize the charging receiver?
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Click to collapse
Hey alphadog maybe this would answer your questions.
http://www.qianqin.de/2011/09/28/high-waf-inductive-charging-mod/
Thanks for the good info, but my mod is done. And no one really takes into account what happens when USB port is in use.
Or if you try to charge both ways at one time.
But it looks like there is lots of good info for someone to make the next revision!