force headphone output - Sony Ericsson XPERIA X10 Mini

Hi there, i need to know if is there a way to force the audio output by the headphone jack. I'm having problems with the headphone detection and they are constantly self-switching between them and the loudspeaker. It's not a software problem, i've tested many roms and the problem is always present .
Thanks!

Then it maybe a hardware problem. did you check it with the se center?
Cleaning and checking the port might get you something.
OR wait for someone else to post their ideas
Tim

I've tried several things with the connector, clean up, re-solder... but still having the problem. I'm sure that the audio output is working, but the detection is failing, so if i could simulate or force the detection of the headphones even without the headphones plugged, making the audio output going trough the audio jack i will be able to make more tests or even solve the problem the cheaper way. I,ve bring the phone to the service center and they say that is impossible for them to repair it.
Any idea?
Thanks!

YESSSS I've solved it! after getting the electronics schematics of the phone, I recognized the plug detection part of the circuit. after that, I've tested all the components in that circuit to discard a processor failure. I've founded a resistance broken. It was under a protection of solid paste cover, so I've got to remove it forcing it mechanicaly. After that I getted a new one and invented a way to solder it by putting the resistance in a more accesible place and wiring to the PCB points.
Anyway, I think that an app to force the audio output without the real presence of the headphones could be useful...
Tomorrow I'll post a photo of the repair.

Thanks, that'd be very nice of you! I for one am very interested in how you repaired it.

OK, here are the images...
The schematics were downloaded from here:http://www.cpkb.org/wiki/Sony_Ericsson_E10i_Xperia_X10_mini_service_manual. There are many service manuals from all brands.
The first image is the schematic of the PCB. X3600 is the 7pin 3.5 Jack. It has 11 soldering points, 4 of them are between the jack and the PCB and the soldering method is by BGA station due this. But, that 4 soldering points are those extra pins for the remote control. They are not indispensable.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
The second image is the electronics schematic. Is only the part of the jack connector. You can see a circuit starting in the pin nÂș4 that is named PLUG DETECT, so here is where we have to look. Its simple, it start in the 4pin, goes trough 2 resistors (R3601 33Kohms, R3600 200Kohms) and reach the N1500, wich is the qualcomm processor. Knwowing that, I've tested those resistors, and identifyed the ons failling, that is marked on the first image.
I've removed the broken resistor, and picked a new one from an old CD Reader. Here you have a page that shows how to read SMD resistors
http://www.dinastiasoft.com.ar/Tecnologia/Resistencias.htm Anyway, after founding the resistor, I've checked it with the multimeter. The value of the resistor needed was on the schematics and was 33Kohms.
The problem here was that the new resistor was bigger than the old one, so I have to make a way to solder it. I've solved it by picking a flat cable from the same CD reader and cutting it to have only 2 wires. After that, I've soldered the resistor on one end, and the wired resistor to the PCB points. Added some insulating tape, to avoid any undisired contact with other component or the test points below.
After all that, I've turned on the phone and YES! it worked perfectly!
My X10 was back!

Wow! Nice work, dude!
And very interesting website, thanks.

There is a now an app to fix it. toggleheadset2. It worked for my xperia mini pro.

Related

Broken circuitry - need help

Hi. I have some wallaby for repair from my team-mate, and i found, that soomeone (he told that serviceman ) "killed" some circuitry. That part is here:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I cannot provide better image, coz i dont have camera with macro focusing, bud the area is clearly recognizable.
Would ANYONE be that kind, that he will tell me, what type of transistor and the other component (my guess is capacitor, but writing is unreadable EDIT: its Resistor R831 and it pulls down closer blue-marked IC to the ground, so i need a value of it ) it is? Both are "missing" so i cannot resolder them back. (marked with red)
Also some components are slightly damaged (like a scratch or something like that), but they are in place. (marked with blue)
The other possibility is that someone will send me service manual for this device. I'll be very glad for that (atleast this particular area).
This device turns on while in bootloader, and it turns on normally, but when it is not in bootloader, screen and backlight is dead, but i can hear windows boot sound, and it also reacts when i insert unformatted memcard, so i guess that OS is alive. I've passed all tests in test mode (except that in battery test there is known 0x000 problem in external voltage and charge voltage, but its charging, so no need to worry) and and i've tried to reflash it with new firmware (incl. bootloader) but no luck. I think that this (broken circuitry) is the case... Thanks in advance, Andy.
Hm, so many viewers, but noone replies... does anyone knows it? I have somehow managed to get the wallaby working, but i'd like to have it fixed correctly. so please... Someone... THX
the resistor is 240kOhms in my case. The smd transistor is marked with XA, don't know anything else
Thats exactly what i need So its the same transistor as others, so then it will be enough to measure its characteristics and buy similar THANK you !
BTW: did you unsolder that resistor from PCB, right? Didn't you measured it while connected, right? or was it written on its casing? if so, what exactly was on that ? (just to be sure)
i did not unsolder it. But in case 240kOhms is wrong the resistor must be even bigger than that (which is quite useless i guess)
No sound from speaker, low sound from earphone
Hi!
I copied my reply form another topic here:
I haven't got sound on my XDA1. I'm sure, that something died on the main board. When I run the audio test from the diagnostics. I can hear som very-very low sound, but only with earphones. This effect says me, that some amplifier gone bad.
I opened the case, and found a burned chip. I thought, I found the problem. I changed the chip, but nothing changed . (I have a "donor" main bard.)
By the way: what kind of chip is that? (See: attached image!)
On the chip is written "22 TI AHR", or "22 T1 AHR", or "22 TI AMR". Not good readable.
szajmon
Handy hint for you if you don't have a hi megapixel camera use a flatbed scanner you will get a much better detail picture allso handy for yourself to see reg details if you can't make them out.
just be gentle placing board on scanner plate.

2.5mm to 3.5mm internal jack mod(not mentioned in any threads I could find)

I was wondering if anyone here knew if it could be possible to upgrade the 2.5 mm headset jack to a 3.5 mm headset jack without the use of an adapter. I'm not worried about the microphone, just the stereo headphones.
What I am trying to find out is has anyone ever modified their WIZARD to have a 3.5mm headphone jack INSTEAD of a 2.5mm headset jack?
Could it even be possible?
Just a guess, but I don't think it will be possible since the 3.5mm jack is going to require greater depth and the opening is liable to not be large enough. I'd just get a 2.5mm-3.5mm adapter and be done with it personally.
I hadn't thought of that... I suppose you're right though. Better to be safe and not risk damaging my wizard too...
http://ishop.sunrise.ru/goodsdesc.p...amount=*****&HauseCode=00009&goods_guaranty=6
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Aint gonna work on a wizard (only on newer htc phones) u'll need a 2,5 to 3,5 jackplug adaptor:
or you could spring for some 2.5mm headphones. some of the ones i saw on ebay get really good sound quality
The jack is soldered onto the main board. Since these things all work with SM technology, if you don't know surface mount soldering techniques, you'll fry the phone. An adaptor is cheaper and safer....
Yanktar03 said:
The jack is soldered onto the main board. Since these things all work with SM technology, if you don't know surface mount soldering techniques, you'll fry the phone. An adaptor is cheaper and safer....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do have adequate soldering skills and that's actually more of what I was looking to do. Do you know of anything like that or if it is even possible?
dharvey4651 said:
I do have adequate soldering skills and that's actually more of what I was looking to do. Do you know of anything like that or if it is even possible?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
doing it yourself sounds like maaaaaaad fun but i dont think i'd risk my fone
The 3.5mm adapters are too easy to use - but if you have your heart set on not using one, I would see it as easier making the conversion to the headphones than in the restricted space and with the high cost of failure in the phone.
I think both my converters cost a couple of quid, but the first was a solid one which i got rid of as its too impractical having such a long projection from your phone, or at least I found this when it was in my Krusell case on my belt.
It was also a pain on flights with the rigid adaptor, as I was using noise cancelling headphones, and a 4xAA battery extender, so my shirt pocket was getting too cluttered, but the adaptor with the cable again made it work.
Why would you want to solder on the wizard.
Just get a decent quality 2.5mm stereo jack, some good ordinary headset en combine the two.
It's a lot easier (and cheaper if you mess up) to solder 4 wires together than to solder some miniature audio jack in a cramped area.
uhhh radio shack? that is where i got my two. one for headphones. (before i got my bt's) and one for car. cassette adapter to phone. old skool ghetto.
5$ for two i think. or i have seen javoedge have some also.
****e. i thought you were talking about external.
My experience with the audio jack is as follows... it is kind of proprietary. I once took a picture of the jack that comes with the phone and an off the shelf 2.5mm jack. I'm not sure if I would replace the jack even it were possible, but the quirkiness of the jack created some issues for me until I discovered it was indeed non standard.
My pic and posts re: this http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=1033525#post1033525

HOW-TO: HTC Adaptor Modified for 3.5mm Head Phone With Mic Pass Thorugh ONLY

I bought a pair of Retractable Dual Earbud & Microphone Headset made my ReTrak.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Unfortunately, the current miniUSB to 3.5 adaptor available on eBay does not support Mic pass through
and the HTC multi-adaptor is just to big for my liking.
So.... I decided to make my own miniUSB to 3.5 WITH mic pass through using the HTC adaptor. It was not too difficult, so you might want to try for yourself.
NEEDED:
-multimeter (or just use my diagram, if the adaptor is the same as yours)
-soldering iron
-razor
-wire cutters
-electrical tape
-shrink tubing
PROCESS:
Open the big boy up and remove the circuit board.
Use a multimeter to determine which wire color goes on the 3.5mm port. Remove 3.5 port and wires from circuit board. Remove unnecessary wires from cable, making sure no wires contact each other (cut at slightly different lengths).
Solder the appropriate wire to the corresponding spot on the 3.5mm port. Then test out your work BEFORE you button everything up.
Try to make the wire nice and neat.
Wrap some electrical tape around the wires. All that is left to do is use your heat shrink tubing to finish off your work and make it look all professional.
If you dont want to go threw all of that
You can just buy this
http://cgi.ebay.com/Headphone-Adapt...286.m7QQ_trkparmsZalgo=LVI&itu=UCI&otn=2&ps=6
i purchase one and i love it
I don't see anywhere in that eBay auction that the adapter allows mic pass through. Dose it allow mic pass through? That was the only reason I used the HTC adapter, because it allows mic pass through. I already have the first adapter above, but was not happy with just headphones.
UPDATE.... YOU DO NOT KNOW HOW TO READ BEFORE YOU POST!!!! THAT ADAPTER DOES NOT HAVE MIC PASS THROUGH... PLEASE READ ALL OF A POST BEFORE YOU RESPOND NEXT TIME.
THANKS
Are all 6 leads required for the 3.5mm female jack?
Can you provide the pinout for the extusb to a 4conductor 3.5mm male jack?
nvm.....found it here. Very interesting site showing the pinout configuration for the extusb.
http://pinouts.ru/PDA/htc_extUSB_pinout.shtml
ITT: People who should've bought the Telus TP2.
yup.... but unfortunately I am on ATT... so I do what I got to do
Thanks lokmeup
This is very useful and valuable info!
Hope Mods agree this could be a sticky
Cheers,
Very nicely done. Any plans on selling these?
Shipping problem.
I own a HTC Gene. It does not have 3.5mm audio jack and in my country no adapter is available. Neither in shops nor online. And I want to use regular headphones. Any idea how can I make one connector cable by joining extUSB sync cable and 3.5mm female audio jack?
http://www.daydeal.com/product.php?productid=15783
akshay2000 said:
I own a HTC Gene. It does not have 3.5mm audio jack and in my country no adapter is available. Neither in shops nor online. And I want to use regular headphones. Any idea how can I make one connector cable by joining extUSB sync cable and 3.5mm female audio jack?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use this info and a multimeter to figure out what goes where.
mda71 said:
nvm.....found it here. Very interesting site showing the pinout configuration for the extusb.
http://pinouts.ru/PDA/htc_extUSB_pinout.shtml
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

[JTAG] HTC Topaz JTAG pinouts (unbrick)

I purchased a drowned HTC Diamond 2 which I used to house my MDA V in.
Now I was in possession of a broken mainboard.
Since the JTAG pinouts are unknown till this date, I stripped the mainboard from all its components and traced the board in order to find the JTAG.
Had to make new probes from some needles in order to trace from the BGA-Grid..
The difficulty here was that the test-pins where on the other side as where the MPM 7200-A was, and with those tiny bga-vias it was real hard to trace.
Some pictures of the board (before stripping)
The front side of the Mainboard (it is a single board device, apart from speakers, LCD and antenna no further external parts, all on one board!)
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Backside with foil still on it (this side is facing the front of the device)
Backside without Foil and here are the JTAG testpins:
The Pins I traced:
RTCK
TDO
TDI
TCK
TMS
TRST-N
*other pins:
Mode 0 (between TRST-N and TDI)
Will be checking for other pins on request (btw: sofar watchdog, mode 1,2,3 are not (yet) found)
These should suffice to JTAG the device.
For those in need of testpoints for reference voltage etc..:
Other info:
Memory module (on this board):
Hynix H8BES0UQ0MCA
More info Regarding JTAG as being used to debrick HTC Dream
Regards,
EqX
Great work equinoxe!!
orb3000 said:
Great work equinoxe!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well thanks for the board in the first place, without it I wouldn't be able to trace the pins!
Regards,
EqX
Sounds interesting, could you explain what this could be used for?
12
one use for JTAG is to flash the device at a low level (i.e. lower than the bootloader) - one use for this method of flashing is that you can recover from a bad bootloader flash
There are plenty of other uses too, that's just one
Kewl! I didn't know that
Very informative
Very good work, the first step to a device picking up momentum in a modding community is to find the JTAG pins, nice!
is this something awesomely awesome?
i mean does it enable us to do something cool which we couldnt do before?
You can eg. repair a hardbricked device.
Since you are entering the device on a lower level than the bootloader.
Lots of possibilities.
EqX
so, could this be used to enable iSecretary to work as a genuine answeringmachine? To send audio directly and not through speaker? And record incomming, ofcourse.
Goog work man !
can you make a high resolution picture to me?, i need to see all the CIs, to help in android development?, to see the diferences of decoders and encoders from the other devices.
@ Maikeu:
Regards,
EqX
Sounds interesting
To use the JTAG, you need some equipment, it does not connect to a PC's USB or serial port. And you need knowledge and software to delete everything in flash and reprogram stuff like a bootloader, radio or ROM.
I think this information is very usefull for some Topaz cracks, but not very usefull for most users.
My proposal to the moderator: Unstick this thread and put a link for it into the [ROLLUP MUST READ]ROM resources: HardSPL, Unlocking, Custom RUU, Kitchens, Radios thread, that's where it belongs.
can I ask for assistance in disassembling the td2 or could someone point me in the direction of a how to on the AT&T pure. I'm stuck getting the outer case of the back since the battery door is different than the original touch diamond 2. Thank you
does that look like an external antenna connector I see on the main board?
dna24 said:
can I ask for assistance in disassembling the td2 or could someone point me in the direction of a how to on the AT&T pure. I'm stuck getting the outer case of the back since the battery door is different than the original touch diamond 2. Thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Remove the plastic piece on the front (it is attached with only some double sided tape), beneath the plastic you can see the screws.
accord91lx said:
does that look like an external antenna connector I see on the main board?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, there are 3 external connectors but tmk not accessible without disassembly.
@the-equinoxe----thank you so much, that worked perfectly, you da man

Have a big problem with g5 board please help me ?

Hi
I dissassembled my g5 a few days ago for observ the warming location. then. while I am trying to put battery and bottom part. I broke the motherboard plug pin piece. two pins. its antenna connection. I dig into this with my bad soldering iron. I ruined some ways and some smd cap. Now can you explain it from the picture. could we make new ways and could we put the smd s on its places or new places. I cant find the schematic of board.
Could you explain schematic where only this broke location. ?
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I have the same problem trying to repare the screen from my girlfriend old phone. The screen is now replaced, but I broke this tab during the disassembly. Now the phone cant make or receive any calls or sms.. It can search for service but cannot log onto them. So, I looked on the pcb with my multimeter and find the 2 connections to make. Ill try to solder it back together.
thesebroy said:
I have the same problem trying to repare the screen from my girlfriend old phone. The screen is now replaced, but I broke this tab during the disassembly. Now the phone cant make or receive any calls or sms.. It can search for service but cannot log onto them. So, I looked on the pcb with my multimeter and find the 2 connections to make. Ill try to solder it back together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good, this thread isn't too dead Did you have success with soldering them back? I'm thinking of shipping mine to a repair shop with microsoldering technology.
Hello,
I'm repairing PCB's for a hobby, and my opinion would be ...
just buy a new Mainboard, they schould be unter 90$(new), repairing would be more expensive, even if it is "only a few components".
The two pins on the top right are mechanically important to connect into something, it will be really hard to get those strong enough, if they're broken.
Without a datasheet i would guess those caps, could be bypass caps, and maybee the're not really needed.
hello,
while fixing my gps I broke the same thing, the antenna pins connecting to the chin. ???
Has anyone managed to fix this?
Regards

Categories

Resources