I drilled a hole in my Nook! - Nook Touch Accessories

I took the back off the Nook and disconnected the battery.
I removed the tape on the battery on three sides
I drilled a hole.
I chamfered the inside edges
I glued a round 1/4-20 T nut in the hole using JB Weld epoxy.
I used a bolt and an old plastic lid with a hole in it to pull it tight for drying.
I reassembled the Nook.
The next morning I removed the bolt.
Now I have a Nook that mounts on those little bendy camera tripods.
I can also just stick in a 1/4-20 2.5" bolt as a leg.
I'm going to get an accessory arm so that I can put it on my mic stand.

Nice!

Best topic name ever xD

For lyrics or podcasting?

wooow
but will u add mic on this whole???
r u in hardware cracking staff
outstanding

Besides reading books, I use my Nook for display of my guitar transcriptions with lyrics and for recording 24 bit audio.
I don't use a builtin mic, I use a Shure SM58 (standard stage mic) and a Lexicon Alpha USB interface.
Getting it to work is all part of this thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1457971
I haven't really ported my guitar transcription display program over to Android yet as it's actually quite complicated.
I format songs as PNGs on my desktop and then have a simple program on the Nook that can scroll them.
I have a database front-end for looking up songs that's actually more convenient than anything that I have on my desktop.

Renate NST said:
Besides reading books, I use my Nook for display of my guitar transcriptions with lyrics and for recording 24 bit audio.
I don't use a builtin mic, I use a Shure SM58 (standard stage mic) and a Lexicon Alpha USB interface.
Getting it to work is all part of this thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1457971
I haven't really ported my guitar transcription display program over to Android yet as it's actually quite complicated.
I format songs as PNGs on my desktop and then have a simple program on the Nook that can scroll them.
I have a database front-end for looking up songs that's actually more convenient than anything that I have on my desktop.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so .... ummmm....... what the point of drilled a hole in ur nook? ...

speedman2202 said:
so .... ummmm....... what the point of drilled a hole in ur nook? ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The point is so that I can use a camera mini-tripod to hold the Nook so that I can read it without holding it.

Renate NST said:
The point is so that I can use a camera mini-tripod to hold the Nook so that I can read it without holding it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check mine out
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1602093

Here's a few photos of a desk mic stand that I am using with a home-built adapter.

price
Renate NST said:
Here's a few photos of a desk mic stand that I am using with a home-built adapter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
how much is this pod?

When I bought the stand it was $8 US.
The price seems to have creeped up to $12 in only a week.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PAW6EG/
The photo shows the wrong length gooseneck, mine is 8", 20 cm long.

Nice.

The link trail from the USB kernel mods has been quite a trip.
What a cool and interesting thing you have done. Very very nice.
They were throwing this device in with purchases of the Color not too long ago. Sometimes the most interesting times for a device is when the manufacturer moves on.

mateorod said:
...
What a cool and interesting thing you have done. Very very nice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
second that
Renate, you may have a market if you could package the round 1/4-20 T nut into a generic back cover for the nook (to look just like this for the iphone http://goo.gl/noOBd )...

Renate do you think one of these http://www.millennium-music.co.uk/mic-spring-clip-holder-mp850 would be enough to hold the nook with that base you got from amazon? many thanks

The problem with clips is that they are always a bit awkward and slippery.
I think that the 1/4" insert is perfect.
It's minimal but is sufficient for a solid mount.
It doesn't really get in the way of slip-on cases or holding it in your hand.
I used the mic clip that cam with the desk stand.
I threw away the clip part and sawed off the two lugs on the base.
I drilled a whole through the center of the base and screwed in a 1/4" bolt.
In bed I use a little bendy tripod.
I usually use it as a single foot with the base of the Nook resting on a surface.

as I don't have a drill, here is my plan... this http://goo.gl/0VXbX glued to the back of this http://goo.gl/HupQE and screwed to the base you have http://goo.gl/i9ztI... wish me luck

Yup, that should work pretty well.
That will give you a nice solid mount.
I hadn't known about that hard back at the time.
I had thought about bending up a little aluminum tray.
You'll forgive me if I still prefer my little internal 1/4" mount.

Could this method be used to install nook on bicycle ? Or maybe somebody know better bicycle fixing mechanism?

Related

Modifying the Athena to a real portable console

Hello,
I don't know if the subject was already discussed, but I never saw anything about that.
So, as we are a lucky to own a device with a removing keyboard, I thought we could plug something else like a real pad and some buttons to make our device looks and feels like a real portable console. Take a look at the pic, though it is just a draft.
I think we could get the pad and the buttons from a real little joystick (there's plenty of them for diferent consoles), mount them on the Athena and join them with micro wires to the 8 pins used to connect the keyboard.
We would need informations about how the keyboard work with the main unit.
This is just an idea but I think it could be a really good one. I'm not a good homemade genius nor an amator, though, if you are interested, we could maybe work together on this project.
The cursor pad does exactly what the Athens' own joystick does. You can skip that.
mahjong said:
The cursor pad does exactly what the Athens' own joystick does. You can skip that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello,
I noticed that the stick on the Athena's can't do up-right,up-left,down-right nor down-left. At first look and first use I thought the stick was well designed, but finaly this issue prevents playing most games. If people here can use the stick to do diagonal axis, please let me know.
Aynway, the main idea was to make the Athena looks and feels like a real portable console. Game buttons really lake for this purpose and the ones available just suck. The feel is not good and they are not well set.
Also I'm not talking about piercing holes in the athena but finding a way to fix a pad+buttons set on the surface of the machine.
luthor_70 said:
Hello,
I noticed that the stick on the Athena's can't do up-right,up-left,down-right nor down-left. At first look and first use I thought the stick was well designed, but finaly this issue prevents playing most games. If people here can use the stick to do diagonal axis, please let me know.
Aynway, the main idea was to make the Athena looks and feels like a real portable console. Game buttons really lake for this purpose and the ones available just suck. The feel is not good and they are not well set.
Also I'm not talking about piercing holes in the athena but finding a way to fix a pad+buttons set on the surface of the machine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When u say fix a pad+buttons set on the surface do you sorta like using a silicon skin over the device with the buttons built in on it and using either fiber optic wires or some kind of thin ribbon cable going back to the keyboard pads and all the necessary cutouts already in place on the skin so you can still access all the stuff (ie. reset, battery area, external gps conectors etc. etc...) Or was I way over my head on this one?
tootallk2000 said:
When u say fix a pad+buttons set on the surface do you sorta like using a silicon skin over the device with the buttons built in on it and using either fiber optic wires or some kind of thin ribbon cable going back to the keyboard pads and all the necessary cutouts already in place on the skin so you can still access all the stuff (ie. reset, battery area, external gps conectors etc. etc...) Or was I way over my head on this one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, there are many ways to bind a system like that on the device without damaging it and by keeping access to the functions you mentioned. I haven't thought about that yet because I think the 1st thing to figure out is how the Athena deals with the keyboard using the pins. Has anyone ever seen informations about that ?
A very good & interesting idea , in my opinion add more buttons is always better as u have more choices to activate these buttons if otherways failed to do so , and i don't think it will take up space in the ram / rom , anyway Htc should look into this page , always more buttons , more better i say
- thanks for reading - jimmunsw

DIY Gamepad Hack (12.14.2009 Updated Prototype 4)

Update 12.23.09
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Link to all pics
Well after two more prototypes and a lot of hard work, I feel that Prototype 4 was the winner. I made a little more adjustment to the top where it wedges in, and of course some coloring for asthetic reasons, and I am through with this project. I have a great final piece, thank you to everyone who helped with advice along the way, and I hope my work helps others save time on their creations.
Project result: a great little gamepad that hides in my wallet until time to play some games! Buttons respond great, have the tactile feel I was looking for, and no longer slides during heavy button mashing! Not easily replicatable but worth the time.
Update 12.9.2009
Hey everyone!
Thanks for all the input! Here is the newest prototype, Prototype 4!
I still think it needs refinement, but i think I made some huge improvements!
After destroying another original housing in trial and error sanding, I have decided against waiting another month for $20 housing.
In this application you will need:
1 CD Case
1 Original Keypad (Some have one, otherwise lets think of some substitutes)
Optional:
Dremel Multitool
Paint
Clear Enamel
Link to the process
Plans for the final prototype 5:
Add quick load and save buttons
Change background to black with grey and red buttons
Try to add a Nintendo logo somewhere
Hope this helps all your efforts out there! People see this and hide their iPhone games!
Edited by wakeupkeo; 18th November 2009 at 08:58 PM:
Link to Prototype 1
OK I have frankensteined a useful gamepad hack for NES, GBA and all the rest. This hack is a DIY craft, and you can customized your version to suit you. This was only my first version after many attempts to crate a workable thumbstick hack for the G1. I actually hope this design will get repeated and improved upon, I have another set of parts on order to do this better the second time.
Hope I can explain what I did well enough to start everyone on improvements...
On to the version one hack. My big problem before was my fingers getting lost on the keyboard during emulators so much that a fast paced game was almost impossible. I tried hacking up nes and xbox controllers to creat a handle that could clip onto the phone and hit the right buttons. No dice after alot of trial and all error. Somewhere along the way after I had already cut up this piece from a white housing, I tried this. I got the idea from old school intellivision, that had interchangable slides over the buttons for each game.
So i figured out which button config I liked, (although now I would do this with eight right hand buttons instead of six) and got to work. Cut out unneeded buttons except some that would stay and get glued for stability of the keypad to the faceplate. On the faceplate, I sanded all the protrusions off, so it was credit card thin and smooth.
Next, I put glue stick glue (the blue stuff) in the underside and pressed my keypad on. this would hold the keypad on for now, and still hardedn to a slick surface and not leave glue on the actual phone.
Then, after it dried, I flipped it over and began the enamel work. I got some nail polish from the drug store, a clear, quick-drying version, and put a coat over the buttons I don't use, to hold the keypad to the faceplate for good. Next, I put thin coats on each game button and let it dry, over and over, until I had a thick bump that was strong, slick, and tactile.
Works great, but the plate as a whole does slide a little on the craziest of games, but now I can play fighting games! So on the next version, I will leave alot more plastic on the top part of the faveplate to make a more secure connection there.
Thoughts? I expect the new parts for my revised faceplate in a few weeks, so I hope to see improvements before then!
Edit: Ok, maybe just hear about some improvement thoughts? Figured this would interest someone, but I guess by the silence that I was wrong... I do plan on moving the directional buttons one over, the select and start one over, and add two more action buttons. And add more to the top part so stay in place a little better. But this version works so well right now, no mis press of buttons, no losing center of direction buttons in a quick game like Tekken and Street Fighter 2 Alpha. I figured I would get some advice for my next and last version, and since the usb host to controller coding seems impossible without technical info from quallcom, this is the best solution to the game controlling buttons I can think of, does anyone have a better idea?
This is actually a really great idea, but not feasible for most people, where do you get an extra G1 keypad?
But, if you could cut a piece of plastic or something to the size of the G1 keyboard (so it would sit snugly) you could just punch holes and/or put buttons on the spots over your selected keys.
Hmmm, I bet even something like a credit card would work.
Just cut the bottom off so it sits perfectly on the keboard, poke holes over the keys you want to press...
The hard part is figuring out how to make buttons.
Thanks for the feedback!
I think you definitely need buttons as opposed to simply holes.
There are two bolts the screen swings to. When I get my next keypad, I am planning on turning that part of the plastic piece into hooks that secure the gamepad. Should be here soon, $20 from hong Kong on ebay. I had the first spare keypad from my Stormtrooper Mod. Others might have one lying around for one reason or another, these are hackers after all.
Credit card idea is perfect, I initially carried the gamepad in the stock g1 padded case but nowadays I keep it in my wallet. Its not bigger than a credit card, and even with the securing improvements still should be smaller than than my id. Iths thin and flexible to handle the wallet no problem.
Once I finish the final version, I will diagram the exact measurements for you all to build your own out of whatever with assurance the buttons will line up!
Edit:
I found the top part that was originally cut off. Its separate but shows layout above the keypad. This is the cut I'm thinking to allow the gamepad to slide into a stationary position. Here is where I'm hoping for more advice on how to cut this just right.
kinda jumping in here. i tried doing it with a credit card, and it works amazing.
i did this for gameboid. it works amazing, actually. better than i expected. i tried it with mariokart (gba), a game where u constantly are moving your thumbs, and so far it was great... ill upload a video when im done with my lab :/
anyways. my tools were: Sharpie, swiss army knife, multiple scissors, tape, and a subway eat fresh rewards card >:]
first i fit the card onto the g1. it slides in pretty nice already, just had to cut off excess...card. marked it with a sharpie, fit to size. try not to make a mess of what you cut off, it comes back. i figured out the buttons i wanted to use. i started with the "dpad." i took the needle thing on the back of the swiss army knife and stabbed it through the card. made it big enough to start cutting. cut out to size. did this for the rest of the buttons as well. i then took the excess card stuff and started cutting out buttons that would fit. started with everything around the same size as the keyboard buttons. i put them in the wholes of the card that was cut out previous, made sure they werent touching the wall, and put a single piece of tape over the top. did that to the bottom too. then, since the dpad felt awkward, i cut one out that imitated the regular gba keyboard, and doubled it on top of the current dpad. i doubled therest of the buttons as well, to have them pop out a bit. put a single piece of tape over the top, none on the bottom. just used some tape to help it stay on the g1, not much is needed, its pretty snug.
as you can see, it isnt great looking, but it works really well
I've always been curious about making use of the mini usb drive the g1 has.
Imagine a shell casing around the phone that mounts into the port and has buttons that can be key mapped into apps for dpads and abxy buttons.
Icebergxx said:
I've always been curious about making use of the mini usb drive the g1 has.
Imagine a shell casing around the phone that mounts into the port and has buttons that can be key mapped into apps for dpads and abxy buttons.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i wouldnt get your hopes up. ive tried stuff like that...didnt work out so well. the drivers in the phone only allow the usb driver to do certain things... same goes for the export...it just wouldnt work that...for the normal person. if u have alot of time on your hands and phones you can risk breaking (like HTC, but they have no reason to do this), then go ahead
Nice Credit Card Hack- I think we're onto something here. Easily a way to match the two and offer people diagrams with exact measurements to make their own. Personally I would have kept the L button to the right, so you don't need to leave the directional pad to press it, but whatever your preference.
As for the USB hack, I have done extensive research into this area, and it seems without some code from HTC directly, no one has been able to break into this or a bluetooth hack. Seems easy, usb or bluetooth 12-15 keyboard buttons and we'd be set. But no one has been able to break it, so I have gone to this hardware hack. Any breakthrough news would be greatly appreciated on this thread, but up until now it seems we are at a wall software-wise.
On another note, in doing GBA game research, I noticed a big part of the games were ported from SNES to GBA, so I bought the SNES emulator and gave it a chance. Wow, what a difference. Honestly, the gameplay is so much faster and responsive, the library of games is so much more diverse, I hardly play GBA games anymore until I finish the SNES library. I'm currently working my way through Super Punch Out, and love using Prototype One. When people see me playing the SNES library, they hide their iPhone. Everyone I have encountered admits a separate gamepad is preffered over touching the screen and losing some visibility, and are amazed at the dexterity the Gamepad Prototype One offers. Please keep experimenting people!
Still waiting on my parts from hong kong to make the final design, its taking forever!
wakeupkeo said:
Nice Credit Card Hack- I think we're onto something here. Easily a way to match the two and offer people diagrams with exact measurements to make their own. Personally I would have kept the L button to the right, so you don't need to leave the directional pad to press it, but whatever your preference.
As for the USB hack, I have done extensive research into this area, and it seems without some code from HTC directly, no one has been able to break into this or a bluetooth hack. Seems easy, usb or bluetooth 12-15 keyboard buttons and we'd be set. But no one has been able to break it, so I have gone to this hardware hack. Any breakthrough news would be greatly appreciated on this thread, but up until now it seems we are at a wall software-wise.
On another note, in doing GBA game research, I noticed a big part of the games were ported from SNES to GBA, so I bought the SNES emulator and gave it a chance. Wow, what a difference. Honestly, the gameplay is so much faster and responsive, the library of games is so much more diverse, I hardly play GBA games anymore until I finish the SNES library. I'm currently working my way through Super Punch Out, and love using Prototype One. When people see me playing the SNES library, they hide their iPhone. Everyone I have encountered admits a separate gamepad is preffered over touching the screen and losing some visibility, and are amazed at the dexterity the Gamepad Prototype One offers. Please keep experimenting people!
Still waiting on my parts from hong kong to make the final design, its taking forever!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
looking forward to it.
my hack is ok, but it looks like it would break over time. kinda a cheap hack i guess, cost nothing. urs shows promise. engaget worthy
alexjzim said:
i wouldnt get your hopes up. ive tried stuff like that...didnt work out so well. the drivers in the phone only allow the usb driver to do certain things... same goes for the export...it just wouldnt work that...for the normal person. if u have alot of time on your hands and phones you can risk breaking (like HTC, but they have no reason to do this), then go ahead
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Reminds me when I had iPod Linux on my iPod video 5.5g. We would solder the cables of a nes controller to the board and run it out a hole in the side where there was room -.-) and mounted it in a rough mount on top of the controller.
Worked decent :3 but we couldn't do it through usb as stated because we didn't know how to 'awaken' the usb for such use.
alexjzim said:
i wouldnt get your hopes up. ive tried stuff like that...didnt work out so well. the drivers in the phone only allow the usb driver to do certain things... same goes for the export...it just wouldnt work that...for the normal person. if u have alot of time on your hands and phones you can risk breaking (like HTC, but they have no reason to do this), then go ahead
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I forget, driver installers? The softwear that makes plugging something into the computer readable and usable?
Anywho I feel as if we devoloped an app to read the modded usb port for it it might work?
Especially with root user.
But I really am more of a concept sort of guy
Hmm, I'm kinda diggin the credit-card thing... I might use an old expired library card or something xD
Can you go a little bit more in-depth on how you made it though? How did you get it to pop up and not hit other buttons when you push down on it?
amgupt01 said:
Hmm, I'm kinda diggin the credit-card thing... I might use an old expired library card or something xD
Can you go a little bit more in-depth on how you made it though? How did you get it to pop up and not hit other buttons when you push down on it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol. ive been slacking off posting everything. what i did was cut a whole in teh credit card where i wanted the buttons. make it bigger, doesnt have to be perfect. i then cut tiny peaces to the size of the button, so it would only press one. put a single piece of tape over the top and bottom.
then i cut out more of the remaining card to make the buttons bigger, and to make the "dpad" easier to use . put them over the original buttons, so it pops out.
if u dont get it, ill post a video using paper to show what i did. while im at it, if u need that, ill just make a video on usage
AWESOME!
alexjzim said:
kinda jumping in here. i tried doing it with a credit card, and it works amazing.
i did this for gameboid. it works amazing, actually. better than i expected. i tried it with mariokart (gba), a game where u constantly are moving your thumbs, and so far it was great... ill upload a video when im done with my lab :/
anyways. my tools were: Sharpie, swiss army knife, multiple scissors, tape, and a subway eat fresh rewards card >:]
first i fit the card onto the g1. it slides in pretty nice already, just had to cut off excess...card. marked it with a sharpie, fit to size. try not to make a mess of what you cut off, it comes back. i figured out the buttons i wanted to use. i started with the "dpad." i took the needle thing on the back of the swiss army knife and stabbed it through the card. made it big enough to start cutting. cut out to size. did this for the rest of the buttons as well. i then took the excess card stuff and started cutting out buttons that would fit. started with everything around the same size as the keyboard buttons. i put them in the wholes of the card that was cut out previous, made sure they werent touching the wall, and put a single piece of tape over the top. did that to the bottom too. then, since the dpad felt awkward, i cut one out that imitated the regular gba keyboard, and doubled it on top of the current dpad. i doubled therest of the buttons as well, to have them pop out a bit. put a single piece of tape over the top, none on the bottom. just used some tape to help it stay on the g1, not much is needed, its pretty snug.
as you can see, it isnt great looking, but it works really well
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is exactly what I had in mind but was too lazy to actually try. Now you've inspired me to actually try it though!
One of the coolest thing about this is you could do whatever button layout you wanted! You could even carry a few with different layouts for different games.
Heres a question for you all:
I finally received a new body to make a final gamepad, but I have a question for all you gamers- is a simple four-way directional button layout better than eight different directional buttons? Experience in games so far don't seem to show much need for diagonal buttons if pressing the the two buttons it combines is just as good. The credit card hack has only the four directions, so in designing my final, what you you think is better in terms of gameplay? SNES is my favorite emulator, so answers partial to that are preferred!
Bump. Is that allowed? Just posted new prototype...
Here's my super low-rent, quick and dirty (literally) version so far. This is the prototype before i make the better one.
I've only done the d-pad, I'm playing around to see which buttons I want to use for a b x y or whatever.
It actually works REALLY well.
Once I finish this one, I'm gonna cut up another card, but this time cut a section out of the right side of the card (if you've holding it horizontally) so it wraps around the "chin" of the phone to stay in place better.
Nice!
Yes, these designs work REALLY well...
Think I will try to do a credit card one, the plastic is more flexible that the CD case plastic. I want to keep the piece in my wallet, and I know a credit card can take the pressure and flex. Not sure about the cd case plastic yet...
cheap source of plastic for these mods....
Grocery stores.
Alot of them have the area for phone cards and prepaid cards.
None of those cards have any value until they are activated.
They have some that are thinner plastic and some that are thicker. Most are paper with a plastic coating.
I grabbed a bunch when I did my phone stand prototypes.
(Which reminds me...I never posted that.)
your #4 seems to be really nice. i like the color and design. it seems to hook around the g1, which im pretty sure you were aiming for. how exactly does it work in terms of force for the keys?
and if ur gunna go for a credit card, if u put a thin layer of take over both sides, and leave the button in a "hole," it works pretty nice.
im gunna try some new ideas in my #2, thought ide share them in case you want to take them
for the buttons, ill take apart my old gameboy, or SP ( i remember those days ) and use them, if they fit. for force in the actual keyboard, i was thinking of actually using springs, not sure exactly how it would work ... maybe cut a small one from a pen up. for stability, it just popped into my mind.. idk about you but i can easily slide a piece of paper through my g1s screen. not a credit card, but deff. at least movie stud thickness. what im getting at is, you could probably make a "hook" thats straight, and once it pops under the screen, you can bend it, or maybe its meant to pop (i like this word) to hook onto something, like a hairclip. a spring might work here too. hell, when you open the screen and it moves out, theres definitely room to slip a thin wire through. just tie a "knot" on the end of the wire, slip it through, and when its closed, the wire cant come out. just have to make sure its a tight fit. then, if the plastic can curl around on the other side, you'd be good to go.
just giving my 2 cents. ill prob try this stuff sometime over the weekend, maybe sooner.
also, you can set the camera button to something, not really sure if thats helpful, but you could prob make it start, and have room for other stuff.
also, on my dpad thing, i noticed that lets say if i set an UP+LEFT key, it only goes up, if i have two different keys for up and left, and press them at teh same time, it still only goes up. anyone else having this problem? gets annoying after a while
EDIT: improvising on myself, i came up with how it could work. might need more plastic than there is on a credit card :/. anyone know that type of material, but in a bigger...card? doesnt need to be exactly the same, just close enough.
Has anyone attempted this?
I saw this thread and was wondering if anyone has tried installing wminput or lswm to get a wii remote working with bluetooth under Debian or Ubuntu? I just started playing with it myself.

Show Us your Nabi 2 Screens

If you have a screen shots of something to do with your nabi 2
Post it here .
Othere might like what you did and want to know about it .
ok so here are some of my screen shots
Everyone has seen mine but
My blur on the Pokemon slider circle of the oshewat or whatever he's called, my son isn't around to ask, looked better in GIMP then it does on Nabi screen, too obvious aliasing on it. Hello Kitty one turned out nice though.
You should be doing some Nabi themes for us
i Rember those they look cool. i remeber when i first came on the forum
i was looking for acer A500 and saw some of the things people were doing
I was like you can do stuff like that to the tablet? *SWEET*
this my boot up screen ...lol its a bit cheezy but grew on me
I did some tinkering with a few apps and came up with this
I'm pretty sure I can do the same thing on nabi 2 and the jr
or any other tablet
http://youtu.be/aDwp38wvf8k
http://youtu.be/a_nDabvzUlg
this is my nabi2 now .
Haven't seen this thread up in a while.....
Here is mine modded with even the keyboard as well ( not shown ). I like the RED/clear/smoke theme. Still working on getting a nice icon theme or complete theme for the tablet.
This one is my screen on my way home from work at night. My dash and Stereo light up red at night so I have my Nabi2 doing the same. I use Bluetooth for music to my Stereo from my Nabi2 as to why I have a Graphic EQ going on. My Stereo has a smaller EQ going on as well.........
DarkAngel those pics look hot. thanks for sharing .
If you ever have time could you show a small video of how you use it in the car?
Eric Karz said:
DarkAngel those pics look hot. thanks for sharing .
If you ever have time could you show a small video of how you use it in the car?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I like your Nabi bootloader. Something I have been wanting to modify on my Nabi. I have been trying different ones for now but have yet to make my own.
I can show you what I use to mount it with, no modification to the nabi2 at all. It was just pure luck that I tried the mount I had purchased. The back part of the Nabi2, where the KINABI letters go have several rows of which the KINABI squares grip to and have an edge to them all, a ledge I guess one can call it.
The mount I used uses an attachment from which it mounts the universal tablet holder. After looking at it for a bit I just slid the mount attachment hooks through the KINABI tabs and to my surprise it gripped the tabs surprisingly tight. ( you will not be needing the telescoping/expanding grip tablet holder, just the mount ).
We all know how the back looks like.....
This is what grips those tabs like hooks gripping tight.....
I bought the one ( made to attach to the headrest posts ) with the dual swivel joints off ebay. There are many although I don't know if they are made exactly the same from the tab/hooks to attach the Nabi2. I tried looking for the one I bought and I can not find it in my history at all.
I will get installed pics as soon as I can including a video. I use a Pioneer DEH-X6500BT. I love using PowerAmp on my tablet and other devices as I have full access on controlling the music thru my Stereo's controller including video as well using Rock Player2. Now I could hook the Audio 3.5 out to the Audio 3.5 in on my Stereo but I only do that when I run the Torque App via Bluetooth to monitor things on my car but then I loose controllability through the Stereo but I use another Bluetooth Game controller when I have to for that.
Sorry I never updated.......
Video may be NSFW ( NOT SAFE FOR WORK ) ..... or for your childrens ears as there was some profanity.....
( Big Pun - Not A Player )
Here is the short video. Mind the music and the wording on the screen. It was playing at the time when I had left the car and I didn't pay much attention to the lyrics and screen wording until I finished it.
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/20EVOLUTION01/media/Nabi2%20In%20Car_zpsf6p4kmsi.mp4.html
Here is how it's mounted.
OMG that so Sweet
the night time View and colors just makes all new and Different
I would like to do that in my car but I tink the mice would try to eat something from it ...lol
thanks for the video that's my first inside look of a set up like you have .
Eric Karz said:
OMG that so Sweet
the night time View and colors just makes all new and Different
I would like to do that in my car but I tink the mice would try to eat something from it ...lol
thanks for the video that's my first inside look of a set up like you have .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No Problem, your welcome. There has been more tweeks here and there with the color on making more things RED on the screen but for now I have it how I like it. Using Next Launcher as well and so far I like it.
Limited Edition Black Nabi2 !!!!!
LOL JK....
Decided I didn't want it white like everyone else's and wanted something one off. Although there will be a Nabi S that will come in Blue, Pink, Green and Gold mine is Flat Black. I also removed, shaved, and smoothed over the small holes where the red Nabi circles on each corner go. Just a simple looking Nabi2 tablet. Retained the rear KINABI holders as I use it to hold my tablet on my car.
haha looks cool
Did you have to use a special paint?
to make it tough do u need to add a clear coat?
did u have to take it apart to paint it?
Eric Karz said:
haha looks cool
Did you have to use a special paint?
to make it tough do u need to add a clear coat?
did u have to take it apart to paint it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. You can use any paint you want really. I happened to have flat black and flat clear coat. I did use grey primer, also to help fill in the small scratches and pits left from filling in the holes. Was very careful not to over spray right between the screen edge. I did take the Nabi2 completely apart to paint it. Only part I could not remove was the screen from the plastic, it's on good. I taped up the screen with blue painters tape and carefully with a sharp utility knife I cut right in the groove at the edge of the screen. The knife followed the groove perfectly. Here are some pictures.
nothing as fancy as what has been posted before..
Nabi #1
Nabi #2
Lock Screens look good. One of the favorite movies out right now my daughters love. Zedge App has a lot of Ring and Notification tones that will go good with the theme and are free if you have not done so already.

I saw reviews, but missed design flaw! (How you deal with it?)

I'm not from the moon. I saw LG G2 reviews, but missed design flaw! What flaw? Apple like headphone jack at the bottom. Jesus Christ...
I like it better at the bottom. You can play with your phone while listening to music without the cord being in the way.
I always put my phone in my pocket upside down face back. Works perfect with the jack on the bottom
Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk
Yea I hate the Headphone jack at the bottom cause you have to put it in your pocket upside down, but it makes the overall appearance of the phone sexy (hiding all the ports at the bottom. Plus I would assume it helps with keeping junk out. It is also nice, as stated above, that the cord hangs down when in hand without putting stress on the jack.
Anyway just go bluetooth. You're just listening to music, not creating a mobile recording studio. G2 + $15 BT Speaker = Bliss
I'm pretty sure this isn't a DESIGN FLAW since it was actually created this way... on all 23 G2 Variants....
There are Pros and Cons for each way. No real winner. Bottom gets my vote since the Pocket Upright argument is the only reason for it being on the top.
I prefer it at the bottom because my phone goes in my pocket upside down.
I, too prefer it at the bottom. My phone always go in my pocket upside down and it's more convenient for me that way. I wouldn't consider it a design flaw.
Sent from my LG-D802 using xda app-developers app
I Am Marino said:
I prefer it at the bottom because my phone goes in my pocket upside down.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I remember Sammy tried to humiliate Apple because of this. It's really difficult to adjust to new things, but I like rear buttons though. My every device had/have headphone jack at the top. We'll see after a week or two, maybe my opinion will be different.
What wrong with the headphone jack locates in the bottom?
I thought it is perfect and very well-thought.
In fact, placing the jack on the top is just plain stupid.
a. listening music where the phone in the pocket, who care it's upside down or versa?
b. in the car, on the phone holder, using headset, in the bottom. Perfect. Who would want the headset cord hangs around from the top?
c. Jack at the bottom and on way to the left is even better since it has no interfere with phone holder's cradle.
It's well-thought well-made device.
I like the fact that the jack and the charging port are both on the same side, makes much more sense this way, especially if you use your phone in your car and have a dedicated stand for it. No other phone of mine except the Galaxy S had this layout.
I love it.
Winudert said:
I'm not from the moon. I saw LG G2 reviews, but missed design flaw! What flaw? Apple like headphone jack at the bottom. Jesus Christ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Winudert said:
I remember Sammy tried to humiliate Apple because of this. It's really difficult to adjust to new things, but I like rear buttons though. My every device had/have headphone jack at the top. We'll see after a week or two, maybe my opinion will be different.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Still waiting for your opinion on why it's a design flaw...
This is definitely not a flaw. Just an opinion. I love it because I can put it upside down in my pocket, so it is a more natural motion when pulling it back out.
Sent from my VS980 4G
with the buttons on the top back it makes perfect sense to put the headphone jack to the bottom, the phone slides nice in the pocket and the cable doenst get in the way at all. with this orientation it feels also more natural to press the buttons while the phone is in the pocket.
It's a little strange using corded headphones if I have my phone in a stand on my desk, but I picked up the Tone+ BT headset and pretty much exclusively use that now, so it's not much of an issue.
TBH I never thought about putting my phone in my pocket upside-down. If I grab it out of my coat pocket and it's upside-down, I groan a bit.
rquinn19 said:
Still waiting for your opinion on why it's a design flaw...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most MP3 players, like SanDisk Sansa series (Okay, okay, we can forget Apple and iPods), have headphone jack at the top. Sometimes on the side, but not at the bottom. It's tradition. Like gas and brake pedals in the cars. Great analogy, I think. You bought a car and see, that gas and brake pedals are in different position, than normal. Not a design flaw at all from car manufacturer! Innovation! I will try to write with left hand tomorrow too and will blame pencils makers, because I'm in 85% population.
WheresTrent said:
TBH I never thought about putting my phone in my pocket upside-down. If I grab it out of my coat pocket and it's upside-down, I groan a bit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exact! I'm never putting my phone in my pocket upside down too. In any case, LG G2 will make me to do that.
Winudert said:
Most MP3 players, like SanDisk Sansa series (Okay, okay, we can forget Apple and iPods), have headphone jack at the top. Sometimes on the side, but not at the bottom. It's tradition. Like gas and brake pedals in the cars. Great analogy, I think. You bought a car and see, that gas and brake pedals are in different position, than normal. Not a design flaw at all from car manufacturer! Innovation!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Those are mp3 players. Put you're phone in you're pocket upside down. Pull it out and put it to you're ear. Is it the right way?
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
rquinn19 said:
Those are mp3 players. Put you're phone in you're pocket upside down. Pull it out and put it to you're ear. Is it the right way?
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Read, I've written more. As I said, I will try to write with left hand tomorrow. 15% people doing that.
My point is simple. Sammy devices at the top. HTC One at the top. Sony Xperia Z1 at the top. Even Nokia at the top.
Winudert said:
I'm not from the moon. I saw LG G2 reviews, but missed design flaw! What flaw? Apple like headphone jack at the bottom. Jesus Christ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
your foolishness just brought me to the realization that this forum only has happy smilies available. i was looking for something to shame you with. i did not find what i sought.
Winudert said:
I'm not from the moon. I saw LG G2 reviews, but missed design flaw! What flaw? Apple like headphone jack at the bottom. Jesus Christ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LG wireless Bluetooth headphones...problem solved.
Sent from my JEE TWO
That's not a design flaw. That's a personal taste as to where you think the headphone jack should be placed.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
Winudert said:
My point is simple. Sammy devices at the top. HTC One at the top. Sony Xperia Z1 at the top. Even Nokia at the top.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so just because others do something, everybodyelse should do the same?
I like the headphone jack on the bottom, because as mentioned before - you put you phone upside down in your pocket you just take it out and have it in the right position to continue working/operating the phone - no changing of position required.
what i like even more - both the micro-usb port and the headphone jack are on the same side of the phone - that's something I was looking for for a long time now.
if u put your phone in a pocket with the top up. u have to rotate it in your hand.
this way it's perfect. just grab it and unlock

Bamboo Stylus Feel Offset Fix :)

I've read in other forums that the Wacom Bamboo Feel (CS300UK) line of stylus's do not line up correctly, with the tip being offset by 1/8th of an inch or more, which is really maddening when you're trying to do some detailed art. In the Note 10.1 2014 forum there's a thread devoted to how many of these stylus's suck and are offset, including the CS300UK2, which people still aren't sure of if it's a new version or a different region product code of the same pen. Whichever it is, this is about the easy to get Best Buy and Amazon sold version, CS300UK.
Still, after reading all of that, I gave it a shot and it really was crap. Way offset! I was about to return it, when I decided to get out the X-acto blade and see what I could do.
I've attached a finished version of what my pen looks like now. Not the prettiest thing, but it lines up perfectly for me now and took WAY less time to do than it did for me to write all this out. haha
1- Pull out the nib that's currently in the pen.
2- Whittle down the tip of the pen until you start to see the first bit of innards in it. With my X-acto, it was really easy to cut, not a hard plastic at all.
In the image attached, you can see a small black circle inside the cut grey part. That is where I've decided to stop. Not sure what it does but looks like it shouldn't be sliced up...
3- Trim the nib. I've labeled in the image the bit of nib that I trimmed. This was photographed on the top of the back of the Bamboo nib box so you can see the size, but it is a small amount, like 1/8 of an inch or so. With your basic nail clippers, I clipped it from the "bottom" of the nib, which is slightly less round than the top, but I doubt it matters which you clip.
So yeah, slip the nib back in the pen and you're done. It should be lined up.
The two photos on the right of the attached image show what it looks like held from the left and right at a pretty decent angle, my "natural" drawing angle. Basically spot on. Tested in a bunch of places around the tablet and it all matches up.
Good luck to anyone who tries this! Also, don't blame me if you screw up your pen.
Now, if only Wacom could put out a pen that is this little bit shorter for these newer Note's...
slackersink said:
Now, if only Wacom could put out a pen that is this little bit shorter for these newer Note's...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Version 2 has been out for quite some time. (UK2 or UW2)
http://www.wacom.com/en/us/everyday/bamboo-stylus-feel-samsung-galaxy-note
Sent via Tapatalk and my thumbs.
wingdo said:
Version 2 has been out for quite some time. (UK2 or UW2)
http://www.wacom.com/en/us/everyday/bamboo-stylus-feel-samsung-galaxy-note
Sent via Tapatalk and my thumbs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
People are still experiencing an offset with that, as well. I browsed all through the 10.1 2014 thread about it http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2484014
Specifically http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=47180938&postcount=46 from a quick search in that thread.
As they're both Samsung products put out at about the same time, I am using the assumption that they will have similar tech when it comes to the digitizer and how it reacts to the Feel pens. The Note 3 will probably have that, too. Older digitizers might not do so good, though. haha
Here's a link where I screencapped someone's test video: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=50693780&postcount=179
At least from the angle, there seems to be an offset from the UK2. He's on the line with the pen, but the drawn line is under that line.
I have the V2 and have no offset issues. From a screen shot taken from a side angle, yes there appears to be an offset, but the big question is "is there an offset from the eye position of the writer" not is there an offset for someone watching from the side. It's like looking at a speedometer from the driver's seat vs. the passenger seat. You will not get the same reading as you will from the other position.
Sent via Tapatalk and my thumbs.
Some say they like it and others are still saying their V2's are off, but if you do have one that works properly and you're happy with it, that's all that matters.
Does the back of this pen work as an eraser?
I was finally able to test the wacom pen with eraser that came with my Toshiba laptop. No surprise, it has the same 2-3 mm offset when the pen is held at an angle. Too bad because it's nice to have the easy eraser which does work as expected. I'll probably end up ordering the big s-pen now...
Also, I did try adjusting the calibration screws under the button to no avail...
Sent from my SM-P900 using Tapatalk
I have this pen from a previous note and it does work well with no offset. The eraser works as well. It was only $29 the last time I bought it and now I see it listed alot more. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Sam...0862790937?pt=US_Styluses&hash=item35c07ea119
tonyz3 said:
I have this pen from a previous note and it does work well with no offset. The eraser works as well. It was only $29 the last time I bought it and now I see it listed alot more. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Sam...0862790937?pt=US_Styluses&hash=item35c07ea119
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got mine on Amazon for $19.99.
ExtremeRyno said:
Got mine on Amazon for $19.99.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got mine for 15.99 on eBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-Gal...366?pt=US_Tablet_Styluses&hash=item2ece9d526e
Sent via Tapatalk and my thumbs.
wingdo said:
Got mine for 15.99 on eBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-Gal...366?pt=US_Tablet_Styluses&hash=item2ece9d526e
Sent via Tapatalk and my thumbs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
8.50 here can use promo code PAYDEALS to get about $1 off, I paid using amazon. http://www.paydeals.com/Samsung-Galaxy-Stylus-Eraser-Non-Retail/dp/B009QW3SGQ#.UxVAXPldXWg
kodochax said:
8.50 here can use promo code PAYDEALS to get about $1 off, I paid using amazon. http://www.paydeals.com/Samsung-Galaxy-Stylus-Eraser-Non-Retail/dp/B009QW3SGQ#.UxVAXPldXWg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got mine for $2 outside walmart from a guy in a black trench coat full of note accessories
Sent from my SCH-I605 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Stole mine.
Lost mine
THANKS!!!
slackersink said:
I've read in other forums that the Wacom Bamboo Feel (CS300UK) line of stylus's do not line up correctly, with the tip being offset by 1/8th of an inch or more, which is really maddening when you're trying to do some detailed art. In the Note 10.1 2014 forum there's a thread devoted to how many of these stylus's suck and are offset, including the CS300UK2, which people still aren't sure of if it's a new version or a different region product code of the same pen. Whichever it is, this is about the easy to get Best Buy and Amazon sold version, CS300UK.
Still, after reading all of that, I gave it a shot and it really was crap. Way offset! I was about to return it, when I decided to get out the X-acto blade and see what I could do.
I've attached a finished version of what my pen looks like now. Not the prettiest thing, but it lines up perfectly for me now and took WAY less time to do than it did for me to write all this out. haha
1- Pull out the nib that's currently in the pen.
2- Whittle down the tip of the pen until you start to see the first bit of innards in it. With my X-acto, it was really easy to cut, not a hard plastic at all.
In the image attached, you can see a small black circle inside the cut grey part. That is where I've decided to stop. Not sure what it does but looks like it shouldn't be sliced up...
3- Trim the nib. I've labeled in the image the bit of nib that I trimmed. This was photographed on the top of the back of the Bamboo nib box so you can see the size, but it is a small amount, like 1/8 of an inch or so. With your basic nail clippers, I clipped it from the "bottom" of the nib, which is slightly less round than the top, but I doubt it matters which you clip.
So yeah, slip the nib back in the pen and you're done. It should be lined up.
The two photos on the right of the attached image show what it looks like held from the left and right at a pretty decent angle, my "natural" drawing angle. Basically spot on. Tested in a bunch of places around the tablet and it all matches up.
Good luck to anyone who tries this! Also, don't blame me if you screw up your pen.
Now, if only Wacom could put out a pen that is this little bit shorter for these newer Note's...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WOW worked like a charm thanks for posting!! Just be careful how short you cut the nib I found I cut it too short and had to gradually adjust the length on the spare.
Thanks
No offset issues on mine...
But then I did manually adjust the potentiometers in the pen, as one should do with every Wacom pen by default...........
ShadowLea said:
No offset issues on mine...
But then I did manually adjust the potentiometers in the pen, as one should do with every Wacom pen by default...........
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any chance you can share how to adjust the Bamboo? Wacom support told me it's a Samsung issue and very sporadic. I would appreciate the help so I don't have to return it.
The.
Earthdog said:
Any chance you can share how to adjust the Bamboo? Wacom support told me it's a Samsung issue and very sporadic. I would appreciate the help so I don't have to return it.
The.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Certainly!
There's two ways to go about this. The 'Viking equivalent of try this first' and the 'If that doesn't work, let's try the more technical one.'
Firstly, try giving it a good solid whack on the edge of a table. As ridiculous as that sounds (and makes you look), this does usually have an effect. Often, the nib isn't properly inserted, or sits at just the wrong angle. Brute force tends to work.
If that doesn't help, it's time for the proper technical solution. This works on pretty much any magnetic stylus with a button, including the Spen.
Requirements:
- A small flat screwdriver
- A non-cluttered room (preferably without carpets)
- The pen
- The tablet
Step 1) Carefully use the small screwdriver to pop off the button. You should be able to insert it along the side in the middle and then slide it towards the back end (where the fastener isunder the button).
The thing jumps, so be careful! (Hence the clean, carpet free room. I had to use a vacuum cleaner to recover mine once..) If the screwdriver doesn't work, try a needle or a razor (mind your fingers!).
Step 2) With the lid off, you'll see two dials.
The one closest to the tip of the pen adjusts the sensitivity.
The one closest to the cap adjusts the offset. This is the one we'll need to fix this issue. (Might as well tweak both whilst you're at it)
Carefully make tiny adjustments (and I mean really tiny) to these dials. Test it on the tab every time, you don't need to re-attach the button to test it. They go both ways, so play with it 'till you're satisfied with the result. (On my previous one I had to turn it a whole 85º, on my new one only 5º.)
Step 3) If you're happy with the result, click the button back on. It only fits one way, and needs to be inserted very much like a battery: one side first. (The side pointing towards the cap)
That's it
ShadowLea THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You are BRILLIANT!!!!!!!!
ShadowLea said:
Certainly!
There's two ways to go about this. The 'Viking equivalent of try this first' and the 'If that doesn't work, let's try the more technical one.'
Firstly, try giving it a good solid whack on the edge of a table. As ridiculous as that sounds (and makes you look), this does usually have an effect. Often, the nib isn't properly inserted, or sits at just the wrong angle. Brute force tends to work.
If that doesn't help, it's time for the proper technical solution. This works on pretty much any magnetic stylus with a button, including the Spen.
Requirements:
- A small flat screwdriver
- A non-cluttered room (preferably without carpets)
- The pen
- The tablet
Step 1) Carefully use the small screwdriver to pop off the button. You should be able to insert it along the side in the middle and then slide it towards the back end (where the fastener isunder the button).
The thing jumps, so be careful! (Hence the clean, carpet free room. I had to use a vacuum cleaner to recover mine once..) If the screwdriver doesn't work, try a needle or a razor (mind your fingers!).
Step 2) With the lid off, you'll see two dials.
The one closest to the tip of the pen adjusts the sensitivity.
The one closest to the cap adjusts the offset. This is the one we'll need to fix this issue. (Might as well tweak both whilst you're at it)
Carefully make tiny adjustments (and I mean really tiny) to these dials. Test it on the tab every time, you don't need to re-attach the button to test it. They go both ways, so play with it 'till you're satisfied with the result. (On my previous one I had to turn it a whole 85º, on my new one only 5º.)
Step 3) If you're happy with the result, click the button back on. It only fits one way, and needs to be inserted very much like a battery: one side first. (The side pointing towards the cap)
That's it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ShadowLea said:
Certainly!
....
Step 1) Carefully use the small screwdriver to pop off the button. You should be able to insert it along the side in the middle and then slide it towards the back end (where the fastener isunder the button).
...
Step 2) With the lid off, you'll see two dials.
The one closest to the tip of the pen adjusts the sensitivity.
The one closest to the cap adjusts the offset. This is the one we'll need to fix this issue. (Might as well tweak both whilst you're at it)
...
That's it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That was very helpful, but still took a bit of fidgeting to get it off. For anyone trying it at home, here is a picture of the guts. The two tabs on the left click into rectangular hole.
My problem was that I tried to slide a blade along the edge and the cross piece would not let that happen. Perhaps the best way is to pry at the left 1/3 of the length and let the middle bulge up.

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