Just purchased a Duracell dual mini USB car charger from Walgreens.
The sticker on it says it Has an output of DC 4.75-5.25v 2000 mA
Well it work for our att notes..our should I return it?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda app-developers app
I doubt it. It is probably configured to only signal an iPad that it is capable of charging at 2A. You'll probably get 500 mA out of it, maybe 1000 mA if you're lucky or if you have a charging cable.
I bought a second one as well, it says it puts out 2.1.... It is a dual charger.. 1 slot reads 1.0 and the other is a 2.1. It there a way to test the output?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda app-developers app
There are various widgets and utilities you can download from the Play store that will report the charging current. This is the dual USB charger I have, from Bracketron. I suspect a lot of these devices are identical inside, just with different branding on the outside:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Nope, these are all for Apple products. They will charge at 500 Ma (USB load) only unless you have a charging cable with the two center pins shorted. Apple has distorted the market by not following USB standard design protocol. Since most Apple products do not have data transfer capability via USB, they use full amperage charging and in fact, overload a standard USB port that is designed to give only 500 ma. USB standard is that the power is supplied by the two outside pins and data via the two inside pins.If the two inside pins are not shorted (soldered together), the device thinks it is connected to a standard USB port and limits itself to only 500 ma. If the pins are shorted, it will see it as 120V feed and take all the power the charger will provide. It is normal for charging rate to vary, with temperature mostly. The internal circutry of the Note will limit it to 1100 Ma. I have seen it at 1125 for short bursts on a 1 amp charger, normally, it is 725 down to 575, even will shorted pins, as the phone gets too warm to effectively charge the battery at full rates for some time.
I have tested nearly all of the chargers available and am deeply disappointed at the car chargers low rate of charge. The best one is from Best Buy, high power micro USB. The Motorola one talked about a lot here is OK, but it falls off charging rates pretty quickly. I have a glove box full of chargers I have tested and the only one I use is the BB one. Samsung chargers are limited to 700 ma only, no matter what the device says on it. The Boxwave 1 amp charger is only 500 ma on Samsung devices. The adjustable one from Spigen, with the slide switch between Apple and Samsung delivers only 650 Ma on the Samsung settings.
The generic chargers on the web or big box stores usually only put out 500 ma. The Note, when streaming music in the car via bluetooth, and using GPS pulls more than 750 Ma, so if you want to charge it, you need to get a the most powerful charger you can find.
I use the battery monitor widget from Play Store, but you have to change settings, it will not auto discover the 2500 amp hour note battery, it sees it at 1500, which screws up the charging rate feed. You must manually set the battery to 2500 amp hours under calibration settings, as well as as set the charger output power, otherwise the data you get is worthless. I suspect many folks do not realize this and are posting erroneous data, due to lack of calibration for the big battery in the Note.
ms0529 said:
Nope, these are all for Apple products. They will charge at 500 Ma (USB load) only unless you have a charging cable with the two center pins shorted. Apple has distorted the market by not following USB standard design protocol. Since most Apple products do not have data transfer capability via USB, they use full amperage charging and in fact, overload a standard USB port that is designed to give only 500 ma. USB standard is that the power is supplied by the two outside pins and data via the two inside pins.If the two inside pins are not shorted (soldered together), the device thinks it is connected to a standard USB port and limits itself to only 500 ma. If the pins are shorted, it will see it as 120V feed and take all the power the charger will provide. It is normal for charging rate to vary, with temperature mostly. The internal circutry of the Note will limit it to 1100 Ma. I have seen it at 1125 for short bursts on a 1 amp charger, normally, it is 725 down to 575, even will shorted pins, as the phone gets too warm to effectively charge the battery at full rates for some time.
I have tested nearly all of the chargers available and am deeply disappointed at the car chargers low rate of charge. The best one is from Best Buy, high power micro USB. The Motorola one talked about a lot here is OK, but it falls off charging rates pretty quickly. I have a glove box full of chargers I have tested and the only one I use is the BB one. Samsung chargers are limited to 700 ma only, no matter what the device says on it. The Boxwave 1 amp charger is only 500 ma on Samsung devices. The adjustable one from Spigen, with the slide switch between Apple and Samsung delivers only 650 Ma on the Samsung settings.
The generic chargers on the web or big box stores usually only put out 500 ma. The Note, when streaming music in the car via bluetooth, and using GPS pulls more than 750 Ma, so if you want to charge it, you need to get a the most powerful charger you can find.
I use the battery monitor widget from Play Store, but you have to change settings, it will not auto discover the 2500 amp hour note battery, it sees it at 1500, which screws up the charging rate feed. You must manually set the battery to 2500 amp hours under calibration settings, as well as as set the charger output power, otherwise the data you get is worthless. I suspect many folks do not realize this and are posting erroneous data, due to lack of calibration for the big battery in the Note.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got a model number on that charger? Or even a pic? The one from BB that is..... Is it the Rocket fish "premium" micro usb charger that's all in one?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda app-developers app
Rocketfish™ - Premium Micro USB Vehicle Charger
Model: RF-PMC55 SKU: 1114106
Yes, it is the Premium Micro USB charger. If you use the USB port for a second charger, it will drop the main charge in half however.
As I mentioned, I have tested at least 10 different chargers, and this one seems to be the most robust charger. Most of the others drop off, as they use very narrow gauge wires and they heat up. The onboard circuitry of the charger and Note drop off when they sense the heat build up. Usually cause of failure of these is the temperature overload circuits fail and the charger stops working.
Samsung needs to upgrade the charging circuitry of their devices with these bigger batteries to that of the tablets, so we can then use a full 2 amp charger. Takes forever to charge up one of these things in the car under full load of bluetooth, gps and screen with wimpy chargers.
The Motorola charger mentioned on other threads is pretty good for short bursts, but the wiring is too thin and the charge rate drops off after 15-20 minutes to around 575 ma or less.
Here is the link to BB for the charger.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Rocketf...&skuId=1114106&st=micro usb charger&cp=1&lp=2
Good info, thanks. FYI same charger can be found cheaper via eBay and Amazon.
Related
Hey guys I'm looking for a car charger that will charge the phone while running google navigation. The current one I have cannot keep up. Basically the phone is using more battery than the charger is supplying so eventually even though it's charging it will die. Please help with some suggestions.
The higher the output amps the better, most online don't say.
This one has a 1A (1000 mA) which is the highest I've seen until now.
http://www.cellphoneshop.net/2usbcar.html
This says 2.1A.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004U4RF7I...e=asn&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B004U4RF7I
Here's one that has 1 of each (1A & 2.1A):
http://www.scosche.com/consumer-tech/product/1921
You need to be careful about using one too high for the phone as well.
The output of the wall charger that comes with the phone is 1A. Find an USB car charger that outputs 1A and you should be fine.
This will run Pandora&Navigation at the same time and still charge,but not by much. But a least it doesn't discharge.
*LINK*
The phones are only meant to charge up so fast. once you attempt to go over that limit, you risk causing damage to your phone. don't look for something with so much power it charges it in 20 minutes. it will kill the phone and battery.
Is 2.1A safe from charging phones?
Sent from my EVO 3D
I doubt the phone will charge any faster even if you get a 2A charger, but there are many chargers that only charge the phone half as fast as you possibly could. Some chargers only provide 0.5A (500mA, conforming to the PC USB spec) and some 1A chargers will only provide 0.5A because of the pin out on the connector plug... You can tell this is happening if under battery stats in settings it says it's charging from USB instead of AC. You could short some pins on said chargers to fix that but it's usually easier to find a proper one for $3 or whatever.
Even if you have a 1A charger you could manage to discharge faster than it charges if you're streaming music while using navigation for a while and/or you happen to be in a low signal area (which eats battery like crazy since the radio goes wild trying to find a better signal/tower).
I have the one in the link below. It is OEM HTC for the Thunderbolt, and has
2x 1A Ports. It keeps up with
Pandora and GMaps. My old charger would not (it was 500mA.) The cool thing is that both ports are 1A in a small form factor, and it has a white LED that illuminates them. It comes with a coiled cord which is well built.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OQUJRQ/ref=redir_mdp_mobile
Swyped using 2 cores and 3 Ds
I have the Motorola one, and it keeps up, and charges fast.
This one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q9CA
my tom tom universal one is the only one that ive found to come out at exactly 1A - 1.2A measured via current widget...
All the other brand 1A's sit at 350 - 600ma
I get about 0 - 150ma normal with Google Navigation and Power Amp playing flacs
I get about 500 - 780ma with Tom Tom with Google Navigation and Power Amp playing flacs
billyapd21 said:
Hey guys I'm looking for a car charger that will charge the phone while running google navigation. The current one I have cannot keep up. Basically the phone is using more battery than the charger is supplying so eventually even though it's charging it will die. Please help with some suggestions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check out this thread from the OG EVO Accessories. Good info on car chargers:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=861055&highlight=car+chargers
I have this:
Monoprice.com Car Charger (Cigarette Lighter to USB Female Converter) #6766, 1000mA
and a cheap 3 foot USB cable from Monoprice also and it will charge while on 4G, Google Navigation and Pandora playing
runcool said:
The phones are only meant to charge up so fast. once you attempt to go over that limit, you risk causing damage to your phone. don't look for something with so much power it charges it in 20 minutes. it will kill the phone and battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You have no idea what you are talking about. The rating indicates the maximum current the charger is capable of. The phone will decide how much to draw.
Actually, the high rating is not enough. The charger should have a certain circuitry ( a resistor between data pins) to "tell" phone that it can supply higher current. 2.1A iPad charger doesn't have it because it was designed to communicate with iGadgets. It will act like a regular 500mA charger when connected to an Android phone.
A lot of the 1amp chargers that you see will still only charge your phone at 500ma. Unless USB pins 2 and 3 are shorted together (or have less then 200 ohms between pins 2 and 3), the phone will think it's connecting to a computer and only draw 500ma. I modified a few 1amp chargers to actually charge at 1amp instead of 500ma. See this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=767961
happyhallsy8 said:
my tom tom universal one is the only one that ive found to come out at exactly 1A - 1.2A measured via current widget...
All the other brand 1A's sit at 350 - 600ma
I get about 0 - 150ma normal with Google Navigation and Power Amp playing flacs
I get about 500 - 780ma with Tom Tom with Google Navigation and Power Amp playing flacs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you SURE you're getting the right result with the Current Widget? There's been quite a few threads on this topic and it doesn't seem that the Current Widget correctly supports our phone. Per that widget, I'm getting 400ma current draw normally - without running any active apps. When I use various chargers, that number goes up or down seemingly at random, LOL.
My most powerful charger, which provides 2A on one port and 2.1 A on the other - makes the widget report only 35 mA.
In short - I wish there was an app that correctly measures current draw on our phone, but I haven't found one based on multiple threads on the topic.
I use Battery Monitor Widget. I definitely see the difference between 500mA and 1A chargers. Some current form the charger is consumed by the phone itself, so it is not possible measure the actual draw from the power supply without an external meter.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Get the Amazon one. Trust me! I have one and all my buddies have them. It is by far the cheapest and most powerful charger you can find.
My buddy did a review of it on here:
http://randomtek.com/randomtek-com-best-motorola-rapid-car-charger/
I have the one from Sprint with the AC adapter in it that pops out and it works well. Granted it was a bit pricey, but, it does the job and the battery does in fact charge while using telenav navigation and listening to music through the stereo as well. Slowly, but, at least it doesn't discharge while being charged....LOL...
jinwu57 said:
Get the Amazon one. Trust me! I have one and all my buddies have them. It is by far the cheapest and most powerful charger you can find.
My buddy did a review of it on here:
http://randomtek.com/randomtek-com-best-motorola-rapid-car-charger/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've seen/ heard a LOT of people who have that one and love it! Good choice with that one. I have a Motorola that also has a USB port in it and i little slide cover for the usb port when you're not using it, works great! I love it an highly recommend it. I charge my 3D and 4th Gen iPod Touch with it at the same time.
Sent from my PG86100 using xda premium
jinwu57 said:
Get the Amazon one. Trust me! I have one and all my buddies have them. It is by far the cheapest and most powerful charger you can find.
My buddy did a review of it on here:
http://randomtek.com/randomtek-com-best-motorola-rapid-car-charger/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is one of the few chargers that would power the Palm Touchstone reliably. There was an extensive thread at Pre Central on car chargers. Just make sure it's the SPN5400A like in the link above. Some other Motorola chargers have a lower output.
On the E3D it shows charging on AC.
It looks like just shorting D+ to D- on a USB car charger is not always enough to get the note to charge at 1A. It seems like the voltage on D+/D- has to be in the right range also.
I needed more than 500mA charging current in the car for the Note and its big screen (with GPS going also). I knew that I needed to short the D+ and D- pins of the USB charger or cord to let me pull more than 500mA off a 1A+ car charger. I chose to modify the chargers so I could use any standard cable for charging. I did this to two chargers.
1. Belkin Dual USB Car Charger http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Dual-USB-Car-Charger/dp/B001ILBNGA
2. Griffin PowerJolt Dual Micro Universal Charger http://www.walmart.com/ip/Griffin-P...40656&sourceid=1500000000000003142050&veh=cse
I modified the Belkin first. I used an Ohm meter to confirm I was shorting D+ and D- on the “fast charge” port. Once I put it back together, I confirmed I had 5V across the outer pins and the inner pins were tied together. When I plugged my Note into it using a standard cable, I got a MTP message and the USB symbol appeared in the top left corner. It thought I was connecting to a computer. Removing the cable sent the Note into a media scan.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
So I took it apart and double checked. I noticed that the shorted data pins on the high current USB port were about 2.5V and the low current USB port data pins were about 2.0V. I also noticed that the 5V pins for both ports were connected together on the PCB (meaning they are fed off the same 5V regulator). I then shorted the data pins together on the low current port and it worked with that port! The Current Widget showed about 1A and no MTP message. This pointed to the data pins needing a specific voltage (or range of voltage) to make the note charge at 1A (2.5V on the data pins didn't work, but 2V did).
Next I moved onto the Griffin PowerJolt dual charger. This is my favorite car charger as it is very low profile. I did the mod to one of the ports and got the same MTP message (along with only 500mA charging). I noticed the data pins were at 2.5V and that two resistors making up a voltage divider for the data pins were right there. I changed the divider ratio (adding a 50K Ohm resistor in parallel with the resistor that went to ground). I re-measured and saw 1.94V on the data pins (very close to the 2V on the working Belkin port). I plugged her in and sure enough it worked (AC charging and about 1A).
Depending on your charger, it seems as though simply shorting D+ to D- may not be enough to get full current. The data pins have to have the correct voltage on them. Around 2V works although it may be a wide range of voltages (maybe 0V up to 2V?).
Later I went back and modified the high current Belkin port so its data pins were about 2V. That port then worked well too.
Check out this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LZt4pW97P8
mtucker said:
It looks like just shorting D+ to D- on a USB car charger is not always enough to get the note to charge at 1A. It seems like the voltage on D+/D- has to be in the right range also.
I needed more than 500mA charging current in the car for the Note and its big screen (with GPS going also). I knew that I needed to short the D+ and D- pins of the USB charger or cord to let me pull more than 500mA off a 1A+ car charger. I chose to modify the chargers so I could use any standard cable for charging. I did this to two chargers.
1. Belkin Dual USB Car Charger http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Dual-USB-Car-Charger/dp/B001ILBNGA
2. Griffin PowerJolt Dual Micro Universal Charger http://www.walmart.com/ip/Griffin-P...40656&sourceid=1500000000000003142050&veh=cse
I modified the Belkin first. I used an Ohm meter to confirm I was shorting D+ and D- on the “fast charge” port. Once I put it back together, I confirmed I had 5V across the outer pins and the inner pins were tied together. When I plugged my Note into it using a standard cable, I got a MTP message and the USB symbol appeared in the top left corner. It thought I was connecting to a computer. Removing the cable sent the Note into a media scan.
So I took it apart and double checked. I noticed that the shorted data pins on the high current USB port were about 2.5V and the low current USB port data pins were about 2.0V. I also noticed that the 5V pins for both ports were connected together on the PCB (meaning they are fed off the same 5V regulator). I then shorted the data pins together on the low current port and it worked with that port! The Current Widget showed about 1A and no MTP message. This pointed to the data pins needing a specific voltage (or range of voltage) to make the note charge at 1A (2.5V on the data pins didn't work, but 2V did).
Next I moved onto the Griffin PowerJolt dual charger. This is my favorite car charger as it is very low profile. I did the mod to one of the ports and got the same MTP message (along with only 500mA charging). I noticed the data pins were at 2.5V and that two resistors making up a voltage divider for the data pins were right there. I changed the divider ratio (adding a 50K Ohm resistor in parallel with the resistor that went to ground). I re-measured and saw 1.94V on the data pins (very close to the 2V on the working Belkin port). I plugged her in and sure enough it worked (AC charging and about 1A).
Depending on your charger, it seems as though simply shorting D+ to D- may not be enough to get full current. The data pins have to have the correct voltage on them. Around 2V works although it may be a wide range of voltages (maybe 0V up to 2V?).
Later I went back and modified the high current Belkin port so its data pins were about 2V. That port then worked well too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This was informative, my phone discharges as well, when I have gps nav on, along with music and bluetooth connected to my car, yes a lot of things, but I want to use only one device for everything anyway, what widget are you using to check the amperage?
i_max2k2 said:
This was informative, my phone discharges as well, when I have gps nav on, along with music and bluetooth connected to my car, yes a lot of things, but I want to use only one device for everything anyway, what widget are you using to check the amperage?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using Current Widget https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.manor.currentwidget&feature=search_result For Samsung phones, it will display the current *10 until you dig into the menu and use the divide option to tell it to divide by 10.
My GSII would just barely charge with 500mA (screen and GPS on) so I wasn't surprised that the Note can't keep up with 500mA.
Shorting the green and white wires (towards the phone) bumped my ma's from mid 4k to about 8-9k. I think the voltage state of the battery affects the charging rate as well. Under 70% I'm in the 9K ma range but above 90% I get around 7K ma's.
Phoneguy589 said:
Shorting the green and white wires (towards the phone) bumped my ma's from mid 4k to about 8-9k. I think the voltage state of the battery affects the charging rate as well. Under 70% I'm in the 9K ma range but above 90% I get around 7K ma's.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This makes sense as a lithium ion charging circuit should charge quickly to 80 percent and trickle thereafter. Remember that the chargers ability to supply a large amount of current does not mean the phone will consume it; the charging circuit will only draw what it was designed to draw.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA
Right. The charging process goes from constant current mode to constant voltage mode (voltage stops near 4.2V and the current drops to keep the voltage the same) somewhere around 80-90% of full charge.
Nice discussion here. I followed the Youtube link in the second discussion and created a short USB cable with the short. Works perfectly.
I bought the Griffin PowerJolt because of its size as well, however, I think mine is a fake one because the internals look very flimsy and cheapy put together.
Anyways, I can't return it since I already modded it...
I somehow managed it to pull .7 amps using a modded data cable (only if I let the spring contact that touches the inside perimeter of the lighter port touch the metal housing of the USB socket, .5 amps if not touching) but that's all I can do. Voltage is the same between the wall stock wall charger vs car charger @ ~4V.
Is there anything else I can do?
Isn't the charger that came with the Samsung official Galaxy Note Car Dock gives out 1A already?
I saw the Car charger output is 1A and the pin should be shorted already, since there is no "sync" capability.
hyukki said:
I bought the Griffin PowerJolt because of its size as well, however, I think mine is a fake one because the internals look very flimsy and cheapy put together............
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some people on Amazon thought they were getting fakes because the Griffin logo looked very light and the packaging was totally generic. Here is a link to a picture someone posted on Amazon showing the insides of the Powerjolt (a authentic version). This is how mine looked too.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/permalink/moAZAR6I9DW65J/B0042B9U8Q/ref=cm_ciu_images_pl_link
mtucker said:
Some people on Amazon thought they were getting fakes because the Griffin logo looked very light and the packaging was totally generic. Here is a link to a picture someone posted on Amazon showing the insides of the Powerjolt (a authentic version). This is how mine looked too.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/permalink/moAZAR6I9DW65J/B0042B9U8Q/ref=cm_ciu_images_pl_link
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, the inductor in mine is very flimsy and does not have the black cover around it. It literally is being held in place by the two leads of the wire coiled around the ring. I'll probably end up ordering a different plug. Or invest 11 dollars for the one that comes with the iPod cable. Although I'm not really complaining with .7 amps, since at least it doesn't let the battery drain as fast.
Phoneguy589 said:
Shorting the green and white wires (towards the phone) bumped my ma's from mid 4k to about 8-9k. I think the voltage state of the battery affects the charging rate as well. Under 70% I'm in the 9K ma range but above 90% I get around 7K ma's.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you mean 4000 to 9000 ma or 4A - 10A over usb? (this seems a little high for usb most chargers are 500 ma (0.5A) to 2A)
I think it is probably more like 400-1000ma (0.4 to 1A) [which sounds more reasonable for usb]
Note charges faster with Kindle fire's charger. Using white at&t i717 Note
Here is my find and situation. My Note was almost dead it was at 5%. Forgot charger at home and only available charger was from a Kindle Fire. Plugged it in. I know Note takes forever to charge so I thought ok Ill let it charge for about an hour it should put me at around 40%. About an hour later I checked phone and battery charge was at 87%. ???
Didnt believe it at first I thought OK maybe I was seeing sh*t and it really wasnt at 5%. Had to take off so didnt put too much thought into. Next day thought about it and said ok WHAT IF Kindle Fire's charger charges it faster. Completely drained battery til phone shut off. Plugged it in using Kindle's charger turned on Note, turned off data, background data, let it charge for exactly 30 minutes checked charge it was 39%. Unplugged it turned on data, background data and did some heavy usage to drain battery again til phone shut off. Plugged it in using the charger that came with Note, turned it on and again I turned off data/background data. Let it charge for 30 mins checked charge and it was at 14%.
So Im sharing my find and yes Kindle Fire's charger does charge it way faster and Im wondering if anyone else has tried/used the Fire's charger and has had the same result and if using the Fire's charger going to damage battery if I keep using it instead of charger that came with it?
I have used my Kindle Fire's charger since I got my Note. The current rating on the Fire's charger is higher at 1.8a as opposed to the stock 1.0a. However, the Notes charging circuit likely cannot draw 1.8a, the highest I have seen it go with some battery app displaying current was about 1.2a. So yes, it might charge slightly faster. The biggest benefit I see though is the lack of a need for separate chargers.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA
I have been using my gtab 10.1 charger. Its rated at 2.0 amps and I can get a full charge from 10% in about 3 hours. Much faster than the 1.0 amp charge wart that came with the note, by about 2.5 hours.
EOS 2.0 @ MZ604 [XDA-HD]
Stock @ SGH-I717R [XDA-Premium]
Pretty sure the Note charges at 1A max. If you're charging faster, it means your other charger isn't providing 1A.
I have seen battery monitor widget display ~1150ma if it was in deep sleep and I quickly check it before it refreshes. It averages about 750ma if I'm using it while charging. This tapers off once it hits 80% or so when the charging tapers off. Battery Monitor Widget does say this is estimated. I would agree that the Note will never draw more than ~1.1a or so.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA
arsonizt said:
Note charges faster with Kindle fire's charger. Using white at&t i717 Note
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you! Makes a huge difference...only thing that was bugging me about the phone was the slow charging...i was about to go crazy.
khaytsus said:
Pretty sure the Note charges at 1A max. If you're charging faster, it means your other charger isn't providing 1A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
False. The note can definitely handle more. I have also use a Gtab charger and it usually spiked around 1700mA
I currently use an Asus Transformer charger which is rated at 1.2A. I will say, I get about exactly that. 1281mA posted below
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I've had similar results with my HP TouchPad charger which is rated at 2A.
I use my iPad charger.. 2.1 A... seems faster as well. I hardly ever charge though since I bought the QCell battery charger and two extra batteries, so one is always at 100 percent.
I agree. I have used the Kindle Fire's charger on my note as well and it did charge much faster. I would bet that not all of the Samsung chargers that come with the Note are quality chargers.. The first one that originally came with my note would either charge very slowly, or flat out not charge at all. I would have to un-plug, and plug it back in to the wall a few times to get it to start.
AT$T game me a replacement charger after dealing with it for 2 weeks, and it has begun to have the same issue now after about 2 month use. If I use the SE charger that came with my Xperia X10 (750ma), I actually get a more stable charge than what the 1A Samsung charger gets. Albeit not any faster, but it doesn't just STOP charging out of the blue.
I think I will try buying a tablet charger, and stop using my Note's charger all together.
Does Kindle offer vehicle charger?
¢ via SGH-i717
You don't need a kindle charger to get the higher amp rating, just a higher rated charger. There are several vehicle chargers available that are able to charge at 1A or greater. You will likely want to find one designed for Android devices rather than iOS devices as iOS uses a different method to charge at higher amperage than most Android devices use. There are articles on modifying the charger but if you find a Kindle compatible charger online that may be a good bet.
I've bought both Kensington 2.1A and 3.1A but haven't attempted shorting middle pins or cable as discussed in other threads. I use ProClip mounts in my car, but wife didn't want one in her Highlander (our travel vehicle) so I bought Samsung's mount for Note and it cosistently charges 1.0-1.2A and outpaces GPS' drain
¢ via SGH-i717
slapshot591 said:
False. The note can definitely handle more. I have also use a Gtab charger and it usually spiked around 1700mA
I currently use an Asus Transformer charger which is rated at 1.2A. I will say, I get about exactly that. 1281mA posted below
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What current measuring widget is that? I use "Current Widget" https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.manor.currentwidget&hl=en and I have never seen over 1003mA regardless if I use a 1A charger that I shorted D+ to D- on or my Touchpad charger that is capable of 2.1A. I wonder if Current Widget shows charging current and the one you use shows total system current?
mtucker said:
What current measuring widget is that? I use "Current Widget" https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.manor.currentwidget&hl=en and I have never seen over 1003mA regardless if I use a 1A charger that I shorted D+ to D- on or my Touchpad charger that is capable of 2.1A. I wonder if Current Widget shows charging current and the one you use shows total system current?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Using Battery Monitor Widget Pro, I've been using it since launch. It is actually measuring the current usage of the battery, either charging or discharging. I'm using this on an Anker 2700mAh battery and it does charge pretty quickly for me.
arsonizt said:
Note charges faster with Kindle fire's charger. Using white at&t i717 Note
Plugged it in using Kindle's charger turned on Note, turned off data, background data, let it charge for exactly 30 minutes checked charge it was 39%.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This would indicate that the power source you are using is between 1.8A and 2A.
Assuming your using the 2500 MaH battery:
1% = 25 MaH
30 minutes charge of 39% = 975 Mah
If this was accomplished in 30 minutes you would do 975 x 2 = 1950 MaH.
Given the above statistics, you would assume your phone was being charged by something with the output of 2A. I would defnitely run the terminal command on this to verify output though..
THANKS TO PJ_RAGE for already doing work on this subject....This is from his post a while back
"cat /sys/class/power_supply/battery/batt_current_adc
The reported number will be the charge current for your charger. Divide the number you receive by 10, and that is the mA. For example, if a USB charger reports "4851", divide by 10 and the charge current is 485.1mA. Note that this only reports charging current -- it cannot report the current drain, and will just report "0" when you try it without a charger connected.
If you're really still curious, you can see what type of charger the phone actually thinks is connected to your phone (ie, whether or not the phone thinks the data lines are shorted) by entering the following instead:
cat /sys/class/power_supply/battery/charging_source
The reported number should be a 0, 1, or 2. 0 = no charger connected, 1 = data lines NOT shorted, USB normal charge, and 2 = data lines ARE shorted, AC fast charge.
mtucker said:
What current measuring widget is that? I use "Current Widget" https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.manor.currentwidget&hl=en and I have never seen over 1003mA regardless if I use a 1A charger that I shorted D+ to D- on or my Touchpad charger that is capable of 2.1A. I wonder if Current Widget shows charging current and the one you use shows total system current?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I assume this widget sleeps if the device is asleep? I had a widget once that updated very 30 seconds and did it ON OR OFF.. ie: The phone was basically always awake because this stupid widget was updating itself every 30s regardless of the circumstances.
That said, my note seems to be awake 80% of the time anyway..
slapshot591 said:
False. The note can definitely handle more. I have also use a Gtab charger and it usually spiked around 1700mA
I currently use an Asus Transformer charger which is rated at 1.2A. I will say, I get about exactly that. 1281mA posted below
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is that LunarUI i'm seeing? How/where did you get that theme?
Let me post a few observations of my own as I have worked with LiOn technology through my work since it was invented.
This isn't my first go around with this technology.
One of my past employers actually invented smart LiON technology (successfully suing all the big computer makers for royality payments due to their patents) and my current employer is involved in producing the battery actually used in our specific ATT Note device. Believe it or not. Your choice. It's the truth.
1--Lithium Ion charging current is controlled by battery temperature. If the battery is hot, the device won't ALLOW it to charge rapidly -- if at all. This is for safety reasons. Charge too quickly you reduce life, or risk a rupture. Not good, especially for latter. In most cases, the LiON batteries contain a computer chip and a data bus to communicate back to the device. In other cases, the device simply uses voltage alone to make a rougher determination of what is going on inside in the cell. Since there are a variety of applications available for Android that supply a specific temp for the battery, I suspect the former is true in our case.
2--Lithium Ion charging current is reduced as the cell nears full charge; which is why it slows down when it gets nearly full. Of course, it can slow down when it gets hot. This is why when you plug it in, it may not charge right away. Discharge of the cell produces a temperature increase. Putting it on charge reduces the temp but not right away.
3--the supplied adapter from Samsung is "less than ideal" when the first two conditions allow greater current (charging). Using another adapter works much faster if it has > 1A capacity. I use a iPad (gasp) adapter and it REALLY charges fast with the right cable (my next point).
4--the supplied cable from Samsung (the one that allows it to talk to the computer) is "less than ideal" for charging. Go to the ATT store and buy the $10 USB-Micro USB cable they sell. It will SCREAM in comparision, assuming all of the first 3 conditions listed above are met.
Take this information as you see fit. I don't work for ATT, I'm only sharing my knowledge of the technology, explaining what people are seeing, and providing my recommendations based on my observations. Yes, I have used a jig and an amp meter to confirm all my results -- rather than some software application. I'm not saying the application is bad, just that I can tell you for sure how to tell how much current is being supplied/taken in a circuit. You measure it with an amp meter.. the old fashioned way.
Peace
If you havent read the post above mine, read it first. Very informative and all true. Everything I have to say expands on what was said above.
Ok, this is real simple folks, the USB STANDARDS state that the maximum power output is 2 amps. This means that ANY device that charges off a USB cable WILL charge at a maximum of 2 amps, period. You cannot make the amperage higher than 2 amps. This means there is no point in searching around for a 3 amp charger because the phone will NOT accept anything more than 2 amps and ANYTHING claiming more than 2 amps is simply lying.
Now, having said that, this also does NOT mean that you HAVE to charge at 2 amps, it means that the MAXIMUM amps that can be PROVIDED is 2 amps. The wall charger that comes with the Note is a 1.0 amp charger. This means you can find a different wall charger that outputs 2 amps and effectively HALF your charge time.
The other factor to take into consideration is phone usage. The processor does consume some power when the phone is on. Additionally, Android charges the battery by dumping high current into the battery until its at around 80% and slowly reduces the current as the battery capacity reaches higher levels. So even tho a 2 amp charger should charge the phone in about an hour and a half, it really is closer to two and a half hours.
So the last point I want to make is, it does NOT matter what charger you have, the charging process is completely software controlled. The charger just puts out power at a constant rate. All lithium ion devices have the same charging scheme that has been pretty much standardized. While there are some very minor differences, YOU dont need to worry about the technical side of it, this is what the software was written to handle.
I highly recommend looking at the battery university website and if you can afford it, purchasing their book for the skinny on everything you need to know about batteries and how they work.
+1 for Battery Monitor Widget Pro (by 3C). Its an expensive app at around $4 but gives you EVERYTHING you could possibly want to know about what is going on with your phones power including drain, charge rate, current battery condition, VERY detailed logging, HIGHLY customizable widget, etc. Just look at the screenshots in the appstore (make sure you are looking for the one by 3C as there are several apps with the same name). Oh, and did I mention, it uses less than 1% of battery power per charge cycle to monitor all of this?
System Tuner Pro by 3C is also very nice.
I was thinking about getting a Quick Charge car charger but my only worry is how much heat the phone will make if I plug it in with low battery and am simultaneously navigating with Maps and streaming bluetooth. I used the Turbo Charger that came with the phone for the first time last night and the phone got pretty hot just sitting on the table in standby.
Does anyone have one of these and do you have any issues with the phone heating up excessively or even overheating?
skrypj said:
I was thinking about getting a Quick Charge car charger but my only worry is how much heat the phone will make if I plug it in with low battery and am simultaneously navigating with Maps and streaming bluetooth. I used the Turbo Charger that came with the phone for the first time last night and the phone got pretty hot just sitting on the table in standby.
Does anyone have one of these and do you have any issues with the phone heating up excessively or even overheating?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The M-charger that comes with the N6 has 3 modes, standard, turbo1 and turbo2. When the battery is charged below 78% than one of the turbo modes is active. Because in turbo the voltage is 9 or 12 v the battery can become hot. But the charge capacity will be max 14 watt. The same happens when discharging and using video, maps and internet connection at the same time.
I.m.o a quick charge car charger is not needed, unless you are using videos, game apps, internet etc. when driving. And there is a possibility that the car outlet has a lower capacity than needed for turbo charging,
NLBeev said:
The M-charger that comes with the N6 has 3 modes, standard, turbo1 and turbo2. When the battery is charged below 78% than one of the turbo modes is active. Because in turbo the voltage is 9 or 12 v the battery can become hot. But the charge capacity will be max 14 watt. The same happens when discharging and using video, maps and internet connection at the same time.
I.m.o a quick charge car charger is not needed, unless you are using videos, game apps, internet etc. when driving. And there is a possibility that the car outlet has a lower capacity than needed for turbo charging,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I spend a lot of time making short trips in my car, jumping in and out for meetings, and it would be nice to have this feature to get my phone charged back up in the 10 or 15 minutes I might have. I am not so much worried about whether or not the charger can charge the phone over long periods as I am typically just navigating or streaming Bluetooth. If I was using the 500ma ports built into the car then that would be another story.
Most car outlets can run 300+ watt power inverters so I seriously doubt an 30 or 36 watt cell phone charger is going to surpass any limitations. My car has a 30 amp fuse on the outlet which is like 360 watts at 12 volts.
skrypj said:
. . . Most car outlets can run 300+ watt power inverters so I seriously doubt an 30 or 36 watt cell phone charger is going to surpass any limitations. My car has a 30 amp fuse on the outlet which is like 360 watts at 12 volts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry but I did not mean the 12 volt outlet, but a USB outlet. Many people here in NL are using usb-adapters in the sigaret lighter outlet. Many USB adapter are max 250mA at 5 volt
As far as I can see every charger will be good as long as the capacity is at least 1A at 5 volt.
skrypj said:
I was thinking about getting a Quick Charge car charger but my only worry is how much heat the phone will make if I plug it in with low battery and am simultaneously navigating with Maps and streaming bluetooth. I used the Turbo Charger that came with the phone for the first time last night and the phone got pretty hot just sitting on the table in standby.
Does anyone have one of these and do you have any issues with the phone heating up excessively or even overheating?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use the Aukey Quick Charge 2.0 30W 2 Ports USB Car Charger Adapter with my Nexus 6. I've not found the phone hot after use.
I've run Google Maps navigation with TuneIn streaming music at the same time and managed to get a 20% battery lift in 30 minutes, which is better than the random charger I had before which would be lucky to break even, if not lose 10%.
I have the quick charger from vzw and have had no issues with it. Ya the phone gets warm, and it lives in a case. Still no issues.
artesea said:
I use the Aukey Quick Charge 2.0 30W 2 Ports USB Car Charger Adapter with my Nexus 6. I've not found the phone hot after use.
I've run Google Maps navigation with TuneIn streaming music at the same time and managed to get a 20% battery lift in 30 minutes, which is better than the random charger I had before which would be lucky to break even, if not lose 10%.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool. I snagged the 36w Aukey. Amazon just happened to have a coupon code on it making it $10 while I was pondering the situation so that tipped the scales.
Coupon code is 3C6ZIKJY
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
This is the one I have. I have only used it a few times but I have had zero issues with it. It seems to charge just as fast as the stock house charger in my opinion. It also has a notification light that lights up blue when it is plugged in / has power and green when it is actually charging your device. Kind of handy imo. I mainly went with this one because of it actually being "Qualcomm Certified" or whatever.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VH...ar+charger&dpPl=1&dpID=415UvP5jebL&ref=plSrch
This is the cable I got to go with it. It appears to be very nice and of high quality. I don't like being on a short leash.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SU...+usb+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=31ynDmfEZZL&ref=plSrch
I was looking for a quick charge 2.0 car charger on amazon, and ran into a little Bluetooth fm transmitter that you plug into the cigarette lighter. It has 2 usb ports both 2.1a (21W, 4.2A)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010ZOK1Q8/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The reviews on it seem outstanding
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
This is the one i'm rocking and love it
I also got a couple of blitzwolf chargers and they work great as well.
I use this and it works great....
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R3XIKXQ
As for the heat issue, I don't think the the phone will get THAT much hotter using this than it would with a standard charger. I think the majority of heat issues in a car scenario are a result of a combination of (A) having the phone mounted where the sun is shining on it and (B) having the screen on continuously (if navigating). The best way to combat this, in my opinion, is to find a phone holder that attaches to (or around) your car's vent. That way when you have your A/C on on hot days, it will keep the phone cool. It sounds silly but it works surprisingly well (Note: I've never had much issue with any of my phones getting too hot in the winter when this A/C method wouldn't really work).
I'd suggest looking into ProClip mounts... at least for my car and my previous car, they had an option that positioned the mount directly over a vent...
Note: If you are curious about the foam/tape, it's because I have a universal holder and not a Nexus 6 specific holder. The universal is not a great fit for the odd contours of the Nexus 6 so I added some foam.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
skrypj said:
Cool. I snagged the 36w Aukey. Amazon just happened to have a coupon code on it making it $10 while I was pondering the situation so that tipped the scales.
Coupon code is 3C6ZIKJY
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely an awesome charger! I grabbed it on a similar deal!
The day 1 when I charged my google pixel 6, I had my heart stopped because while going to sleep I connected the charger and when I woke up the battery went down from 44% to 33% showing "connected, not charging" I thought this is it.
But then through out the whole day I was going through tonnes of videos and posts which confirmed one thing for sure that Google Pixel 6 doesn't go more than 22W on PPS charger. Finally fingers crossed I was going to spend on Anker 65W but then came across Belkin 25W Boost Wall Charger with PPS. My goodness the charger does what it does, charges 50% in 30 minutes and remaining reaching slowly in another 45 minutes which is enough and sounds safe to me.
I am posting this because many look around the internet for solutions like me, if I can contribute a little.
Amazon.com
It's very ironic. I was initially going to buy the official Google charger for the 30W despite already having a 20W one. I just bought another 20W charger in the Anker Nano one which also serves me perfectly fine as 20W is good enough; don't need the extra 2-3W ^^
Ayyyy! Snagged one too! It was half off bringing it down to $10!
For those in the UK the Belkin 25W Boost Wall Charger is currently reduced to £12.99 on Amazon.
Received the charger and it is as advertised. It peaked at around 25W and then settled at around 22.5W. Something to note is that the longer Anker cable I used to use drops it down to around 8.7W so the cable matters a lot.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
This is what I have
https://a.aliexpress.com/_vSk1m8
33w pps and small it should be dropping againnfor black Friday.
Dropped to 4 quid in the 11.11 sale bf drops to 6
That belkin one decent tho
I bought the original Google charger 30w.Peek is 22 too.
I found a charger, more like power supply, that it gives constant 3a
Xfinity EPS-10
not sure if it will damage the battery though, I tried once and it charged it pretty fast... Someone can input something about this?
eloko said:
I found a charger, more like power supply, that it gives constant 3a
Xfinity EPS-10
not sure if it will damage the battery though, I tried once and it charged it pretty fast... Someone can input something about this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did it charge at the same rate all the way to 100%?
utnick said:
Did it charge at the same rate all the way to 100%?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It did. 2900+ ma constant.
It's a power supply for a xfinity box. They are not even expensive, like 15 bucks.
I was reading about chargers and power supply which the power supply is always the same but chargers have temperature sensors? Maybe was about something else....
I may be mistaken
eloko said:
I found a charger, more like power supply, that it gives constant 3a
Xfinity EPS-10
not sure if it will damage the battery though, I tried once and it charged it pretty fast... Someone can input something about this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Constant 3A means nothing. You're maxing out at 15W since it's not PPS. Higher current is not a good indicator.
Testing random power bricks is pointless unless you know it supports PPS.
A PPS charger can fluctuate between 1-4 amps and have a constantly adjusting voltage to maximize power output.
With a Baseus gan 2 65w charger I constantly see more than 20w charging except the percentage is high. I think this one has pd3 which supports PPS.
Do not trust Franco readings. Get an inline meter if you need absolute certainty.
You could very well be hitting those speeds since the charger looks to be compatible.
LLStarks said:
Constant 3A means nothing. You're maxing out at 15W since it's not PPS. Higher current is not a good indicator.
Testing random power bricks is pointless unless you know it supports PPS.
A PPS charger can fluctuate between 1-4 amps and have a constantly adjusting voltage to maximize power output.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Understood.
Still, it got from 0 to 65% in like 40 minutes then I disconnected because I had to leave.. As soon as I receive mine, I'll do some stats and post them here.
I thought PPS chargers have a 3a max and is not constant, it goes up and down, depending on the battery itself.
The more amps that pulls, the faster it charges... Or am I wrong?
It's not correct. Power is current multiplied by voltage.
3A at 1V is only 3W. PD is usually 5V or 9V.
Google's can do 1.5A at 20V to reach 30W for supported devices.
For me, the more amps that pull the faster it charges... Voltage don't mean anything.
Voltage have great effect. Power is electrical current (amperes) multiplied by voltage (volts). For example 1 ampere at 5 volts is just 5 watts but same 1 ampere at 20 volts is 20 watts which is much higher. Different charging technologies have different approaches to send maximum power from charger to the phone but generally most use higher voltage to transfer power above 10 W because most usb cables do not support more than 2 to 3 A of current. Before charging the battery itself phone converts back the high voltage to low voltage suitable for the battery (usually between 3.5 and 4 volts). If you are looking at software programs like aida 64 or ampere - they read the current at this stage so this is why more current at that level means faster charging because the voltage is already reduced to what is needed by the battery. Generally you have something like this:
1. Phone and charger negotiate needed power and they way it will be achieved based on the capabilities of the charger, phone and cable connecting them. Let's say that they agree for 20W which is 10 V with 2 A current.
2. Charger transforms 220 V AC to 10 V DC and phone starts drawing 2A of power.
3. Internally in the phone voltage is transformed from 10 V to 4 V which causes current to rise to 5 A which are fed to the battery.
Here is a great analogy showing the relation between voltage, current, power and resistance using something as simple as water hose.
https://www.freeingenergy.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Electricity-101-v2.png
utnick said:
Received the charger and it is as advertised. It peaked at around 25W and then settled at around 22.5W. Something to note is that the longer Anker cable I used to use drops it down to around 8.7W so the cable matters a lot.
View attachment 5466909
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My 10ft type c to type c cable doesn't charge any slower than the supplied cable. However it is worth noting that anyone using a type a to type c will be limited to 15w.
eloko said:
I found a charger, more like power supply, that it gives constant 3a
Xfinity EPS-10
not sure if it will damage the battery though, I tried once and it charged it pretty fast... Someone can input something about this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It shouldn't damage it as charging is controlled by the SoC.
Kramer679 said:
My 10ft type c to type c cable doesn't charge any slower than the supplied cable. However it is worth noting that anyone using a type a to type c will be limited to 15w.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ahhhh. Yeah, it's type A to type C.