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I will be using my GT 7.7 allot in the car and likely in the landscape orientation. This puts the 30pin connector and cable sticking straight out the side.
Is there any 90 degree ("L" shaped) 30pin connectors available? (similar to a "L" shaped SATA connectors -see picture-)
If there is, this would point the cable towards the dashboard and and make the cable routing less messy looking.
I searched but didn't come up with anything.
Note: I know I could use the Samsung OEM car dock (which, I think, has the power cable connector in the back/bottom) but was looking for a lower cost option.
Thank
Any luck with finding one of these cables?
Neogrin said:
I will be using my GT 7.7 allot in the car and likely in the landscape orientation. This puts the 30pin connector and cable sticking straight out the side.
Is there any 90 degree ("L" shaped) 30pin connectors available? (similar to a "L" shaped SATA connectors -see picture-)
If there is, this would point the cable towards the dashboard and and make the cable routing less messy looking.
I searched but didn't come up with anything.
Note: I know I could use the Samsung OEM car dock (which, I think, has the power cable connector in the back/bottom) but was looking for a lower cost option.
Thank
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you had a look at my cheap solution for car a car dock and cable management yet?
I know this was posted awhile ago, but if you or anyone else is interested, the original samsung galaxy tab HDMI dock uses the same connector and works w/ the 7.7 (I know because i have a couple). You can get these on amazon for $15 right now. I believe this is the same dock for all the tabs and they just change the plastic piece that holds your tablet to accomodate the model (i have the original galaxy tab, the 7 Plus, and the 7.7 and they ALL work).
If you take it apart, the tablet connector looks exactly like what you are looking for - an L shaped 30-pin. The profile when plugged in is very thin and looks less like when you have the actual car charger cable plugged directly into the tablet.
I've attached a picture of what the cable end looks like. The nice thing is if you keep all the electronics intact, there is an area in the back that the car charger cable connects to pass power to this cable as well as a 3.5 jack for your auxiliary audio connector. Once you lop off the plastic tablet holder part, you have a bare ribbon cable that you can cover in black electrical tape and you just have to mount the pod onto the back of a hard tablet mount and plug your power and auxiliary audio cable into it.
Dear rEVOLVE
i liked your idea the most and i already ordered the dock, but i have a question, my ordered dock has HDMI output as well, so can i do some electronic modification Like this DIY USB OTG cable to connect USB hub to it in the same time as well, so finally i got i charging 30pin port, auxiliary 3.5 audio port, HDMI port, and USB port???
thank you
hi
I need some of help with power plug for galaxy tab
look at this http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies.cfm?t=1931227&p=-1&#bottom
anybody got any ideas?
Trying to find out if there is such a thing as going from extmicro usb that the evo and flyer have to a usb type A (or any other normal usb).
Need a right angle to plug into tablet for car install and found that I can fit a microb angled cable into the tablet, but now need to take the car charges extusb and get an adapter to hook it all together.
You can just buy a regular micro USB extended cable. It fits in the flyer/view charge port.
Proprietary cable is the one on the right. Regular micro USB on left.
I am installing the tablet in dash of a car.
I have the oem car charger because its only one with right voltage. But I need a angled usb for clearance issues. So im trying to figure a way to go from the charger EXTMICRO usb to the angled usb.
Searched around and have come up completely empty.
I'm working on the same project and found this thread searching (again) for more info on extusb. The solution I came up with for getting enough clearance to use the port requires disassembly and if you plan on keeping the warranty, it's probably not a good option for you.
Anyway, my solution was to make some small right-angle brackets for the pcb that contains the extusb port. It requires material for the angle brackets and two small screws with nuts. See attached for a better idea.
I actually got the tablet installed and fairly well, but have since removed it to come up with better designs for charging, access to the power button (and possibly volume buttons) for recovery actions, turning the screen on/off with ignition, and potentially microphone relocation.
You may want to check out http://www.dealextreme.com/ for right-angle and other adapters if you don't want to open up the tablet.
PS: Protect that screen. The plastic is very soft and will easily scratch.
I don't follow.
I thought the HTC car charger was a plug with a USB port in it just like all the others. I thought this might help, but I probably have no idea what you're really looking for
http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-Right-Angled-Micro/dp/B005EV2LAM
If you *need* to use the 12pin micro usb that the view has (which from my understanding was only there for the docking station utility), then you might be out of luck unless you can build something yourself.
Im looking for a cable like you linked to, but then I need a way to connect the flyers car charger special usb tip into it. Only way I can think of is to carefully grind the corners so that it will fit into a micro B female connection.
But the chargers are not cheap and if I F*** it up Im out $30
On a kia soul forum where others are planning on doing the same install with the flyer, one guy has come accross a company that makes custom cables. He said that if We send the car charger to them they will replace the usb tip with a micro B 90 degree angle for $25.
So A person is sending the charger to them to have it done and is going to let us know how it comes out.
jacobbones, can you provide a link to the kia soul flyer thread?
Yes, here it is.
http://www.soulhamsters.com/forum/i...ale-again-24feb-7-android-tablet-199-shipped/
Talk about the custom job is near the end of the posts
opening up the car charger and replacing the cable is incredibly simple. I have done it so many times, I can probably do it blindfolded. I actually had to go and replace the OEM chargers cable with the USB cable that it came with because my damn dog chewed threw the charger cable. Didn't come back very pretty, but it works, that charger has got the be the best charger built I have ever seen, incredibly difficult to open, but I'm sure the car charger is a lot easier to open, you just need a soldering gun and it should be easy.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using xda premium
First off I'd to say hello from Alaska,
Ok this may sound strange but does anybody out there know where i might find or have one made, I'm looking for a cable with 2 40 pin connectors on both ends, 1 male and the other female. This is for my TF201 and dock, I would use it so I don't have to take off the case to the Prime just plug in to the prime and to the dock..
Thank you all Stan
Cables to Go should be able to do this for you. I've had them make custom cables for me before. It likely won't be cheap, but they should be able to do it.
www.cablestogo.com
Just in case anyone was curious, I thought I would try to get lucky and see if a female-female USB adapter with a standard ASUS 40-pin cable on either end would work. However, it was only a novel attempt and the tablet does not recognize the dock as I had hoped.
I am sure Cables-to-Go could get something to work, but I agree that it will be quite expensive. It would be nice if there was a jumper cable accessory to accomplish this same concept since I am in the same position as the OP and typically carry the tablet in its own case and only use the dock when I have alot of typing to do.
On a side note, I did confirm that my Logitech Anywhere Mouse with the Unifying Receiver does work 100% with my tablet and Dock!....I just may be able to leave the laptop at the office yet!
Does anyone have a mapping of the pins and wires? I would like to try and "splice" two cables together to try and make a jumper cable but would need to make sure that I make the right connections. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
I don't think that's going to work for several reasons.
First and foremost, if use two TP USB cables as the souce of the parts, you'll end up with a "jumper" cable with male connectors at both ends. You need male to female, remember?
Secondarily (and almost as important) is the number of contacts on the USB end of the cable. USB has four conductors plus shield and nine conductors plus shield in USB 3. Taking a cursory glance at USB plug on my TP cable, that's all there is. I don't see any additional conductors.
Following this, it's EXCEEDINGLY unlikely that the cable has 40 wires (one for each pin on the Prime end) running the full length. If it did, where would they connect to on the USB plug? Kinda silly to include extra copper to go nowhere.
Instead, if you were to pry open the 40 pin male plug, you'll see that most the pins aren't connected to anything. They're not needed for the USB cable.
Sorry to say, this just isn't going to work.
If you do choose to clip one of your cables just to have a look-see, cut the cable somewhere in the middle. If you cut right up next to the USB plug, you won't have ample wire there to repair what you're about to break.
I am aware that you will need a female adapter to make a true "jumper" cable. However, there may be a way of jerry-rigging a connection to the dock if a female connector can't be found (I have yet to find a part online).
My question is more in regards to whether or not anyone had a schematic of which of the pins are connected to which of the respective USB pins so that I could determine the best way of making a connection....short of having a cable for the ASUS TF201 like this: iPhone Extension Cable
Ok, i know theres a sticky for the GPS dongle but this isnt one of those "Wheres my dongle" or how to sign up threads so i thought it diserved its own thread. If you have questions about how to acquire a GPS dongle or want to say you got yours or whatever this is NOT the place to do it. See the sticky. kthxbie.
Still with me? Awesome! In having multiple primes i have recieved multiple GPS dongles. Since i rarely use one as it is, let alone them all at once i was wondering what sort of tweaks / hacks / mods have people tried (or wanted to try but were too afraid of screwing up their only dongle) that i might do on my extra one?
I already plan on doing a full teardown, taking highres macro pictures of the connector as well as unsoldering the shielding on the PCB and seeing whats underneath. Anything else you guys can think of?
Im not too worried about ruining the device if it means i can try something cool! Lets hear those ideas!
UPDATE: isolated the dock connector. Thus far with my tester these pins are grounded: (back view)
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ G _ G
G _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ G
I know theres an official dock connector thread here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1630300 but im not sure which pins according to that thread match what i have here.
UPDATE 2: removed dock connector, looks like only the bottom row goes to the dongle, not sure yet if any of the top row go anywhere inside the dongle or if it terminates at the connector. Will continue to test.
UPDATE 3: Ok, uploaded my work for tonight, traced a few of the connections just to see where everything is going. There WERE a couple that were coming out the top row, the two resisters on top, that MIGHT be the trigger to tell the prime its connected to an external device? who knows. anyways, its very late here, i will continue to test as i have time and as people show interest.
UDATE 5/5/2012
Ok, been doing some research and testing and whatnot, i have some very bad news. In order to attach any kind of connector to charge the tablet with the dongle attached it would mean soldering a wire to four of the pins on the connector on the TABLET SIDE of the pcb, UNDERNEATH the connector (the really fine pitch pins). Maybe i will have to take a picture to show what is needed.
Suffice to say chances of a mod that can be completed by most people out there is very low. I will continue to try to find a solution.
The red square shows which pins would need to solder the 15v+, the ground could be soldered to any of the grount points. (+5v to each of the three pins or +15v to all three)
Additionally, i have been doing some work on the pinout, trying to clean up the information we currently have. No offence to bjonston115 but his thread is confusing since every source has pins labled differently and there is info scattered everywhere. Bear with me as i try to sort the mess out and make something we can all use
You are so lucky. Wish I had a spare. My main hope is to determine who makes the connectors (if possible), and what pins are used inside that connector, along with how it's mounted.
My desire, is to procure a connector, to add to the dongle shell, and the wiring, so I can permit the tablet to be charged while the dongle is in use.
When I drive 14 hrs to FL, my battery will run out, mid trip. So far, my only solution is to carry an external GPS to use while the TP charges.
Looking forward to your teardown.
Bob
Images. Took as many pics as i could as i was removing bits n pieces. If you want a picture of a specific part let me know. Pictures uploading, give me a minute or two...
I think a power mod should be straightforward. The dongle shell looks "thick" enough to accomodate a USB female Type A connector, mounted orthogonally. You'd want one with right-angle contacts similar to the one below, so you can let it "bottom out" against far side of the dongle shell. For aesthetics, I'd dremel the opening at the back side of the dongle rather than front, but this depends on your car mount.
The next step is to solder jumper wires from USB's power and ground pins to appropriate pins on 40-pin connector. Since USB adapter for TF101 is same for Prime/300, we can assume pin-out for USB functions is still same. Somebody already posted partial pin-out in another thread.
Soldering to the USB contact isn't a big deal, but to the finer-pitch 40-pin connector would take a bit of finesse.
Note: TF101/201/300 can charge with [email protected]
@pileot: Suggest taking a caliper and measure inner and outer thickness of dongle (ie w/ and w/o the shell thickness).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-USB-sh...ale-socket-Connector-PCB-Socket-/260991770971
unfortunately i dont have access to calipers, far as i can measure outside thickness is about 3/4 maybe slightly less, inside thickness is about 1/8 inches. sorry i cant be more accurate.
im assuming you want to throw a USB on the PCB? im not exactly sure how you want to connect that usb female connector, or what the purpose would be to do so.... Mind explaining just a little more?
Mount: Use dremel to create a rectangular hole (12.5mm x 5.2mm) at the back (or front) of the dongle. Use a short-body USB connector w/ right-angle contact like the previous, and mount it orthogonally, eg perpendicular to dongle facing. I think the short-body one has a length of about 0.5" so it should flush-mount. But if not, having it sticking out a bit isn't a big deal.
Purpose: To charge tablet w/ either [email protected] or [email protected] I would go with the second, since USB car chargers for it are widely available (that's what the iPad uses).
e.mote said:
Note: TF101/201/300 can charge with [email protected]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know that the PC USB charge @~500ma takes forever and the TP has to be shut off, but what would the deal be with [email protected]
Would I be able to continue to use it as it charged, or would it need to be shut down too.
I'd probably use a USB 3 connector in place of the pictured USB 2
Thanks for the idea...I never thought of that....now all I got to do is to wait till I get my dongle.
Bob
ahh! makes sense.... sure would be nice if we had a full connector port. Maybe i could make a trip to an electronic component store and pick up some USB connectors.
If you just want to use it for power then dont we just need any sort of connection to the charging ports and the outside of the dongle? It doesnt have to be USB it could be anything as long as you have a male and female connection
pileot said:
unfortunately i dont have access to calipers, far as i can measure outside thickness is about 3/4 maybe slightly less, inside thickness is about 1/8 inches. sorry i cant be more accurate.
im assuming you want to throw a USB on the PCB? im not exactly sure how you want to connect that usb female connector, or what the purpose would be to do so.... Mind explaining just a little more?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a neat tool in Google Play called Smart Tools. Possibly you could get better measurements of the items you want to measure by using the tool, and laying the item right on the screen. I have it installed, and think it was a well done app.
Bob
>I know that the PC USB charge @~500ma takes forever and the TP has to be shut off, but what would the deal be with [email protected]
No idea. That's something you can find out afterward. Having the mod in place won't hurt anything.
My guess is that it should be good enough to at least maintain battery level while on, which would be all that's needed in a car.
>It doesnt have to be USB it could be anything as long as you have a male and female connection.
You can use barrel power connector. But you'd have to make your own power cable, as opposed to using a standard USB cable to connect to the charger. Edit: On second thought, you can use a [email protected] car charger, then get a mating barrel connector.
http://google.com/search?q=12v+1.5a+car+adapter
from what i understand if you have the tablet on and try to charge with 5v it wont even maintain the current battery level. The tablet charges with 15v or something... having a barrel connector would ensure you dont accidentally plug a prime charger into another USB device frying it.
At that point if we could just get the barrel plug right to the power pins, fitting it in should be too hard....I am really interested iin this because I have 2 dongles coming tomorrow annd planned on hacking one....(I got two because one was RMA and they sent me a new one back 2 serials=2 Dongles)
BSMan1011 said:
At that point if we could just get the barrel plug right to the power pins, fitting it in should be too hard....I am really interested iin this because I have 2 dongles coming tomorrow annd planned on hacking one....(I got two because one was RMA and they sent me a new one back 2 serials=2 Dongles)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
See edited first post. Because the top row does not go to the back of the PCB and i believe thats where the power is, it would be hard to throw a charging circut in there. I am still working on locating where all the pins in this thing go but it is very tiny, even with my finest nodes to test these circuts its very delicate work.
In the mean time, i will upload what i do have before i go to sleep tonight (maybe in another hour or so) so stay tuned!
Okay I will try and keep updated... if we could get a charging circiut in maybe a true car mount might be a project... at least for me, I already have a tablet window mount and with some changes I could affix a modified dongle at the bottom and just slide prime in for GPS + charging (again if we can get it to work)... I get mine today and disassembly will soon follow so I will post anything else I can to help progress
pileot said:
UDATE 5/5/2012
Ok, been doing some research and testing and whatnot, i have some very bad news. In order to attach any kind of connector to charge the tablet with the dongle attached it would mean soldering a wire to four of the pins on the connector on the TABLET SIDE of the pcb, UNDERNEATH the connector (the really fine pitch pins). Maybe i will have to take a picture to show what is needed.
Suffice to say chances of a mod that can be completed by most people out there is very low. I will continue to try to find a solution.
The red square shows which pins would need to solder the 15v+, the ground could be soldered to any of the grount points. (+5v to each of the three pins or +15v to all three)
)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay first off...have we all decided to stay low until we progress, i don't want this thread to die so soon...secondly...though I am sure you have done you research I still must ask, Are you sure? if we can provide any charge to the prime it will at least help a bit...also does anyone one else have other ideas other than charging?...
one idea I literally just thought of so it is not very thought out is, what if we remove the dongle case( as we have done) and integrate it into case.... we will need one of the 40-pin cables to wire onto it but maybe it could fit into some cases.
I will continue to try to think of more uses and mods and will update, meanwhile I hope that we can get some more input
Hmm, you've made quite a bit of progress there. I really wish I wasn't lazy haha, I need to learn to really work with electrical stuff.
So, then the dongle uses some of the pins that would be used for power from the dock? If the dock can pass power without changing the Prime, I should think the dongle could somehow. I mean, only certain pins are used for data right, so the dock and dongle should use the same ones?
Ok, firstly. Yes, im sure. Im sure of the pin placement and based on the best available information scattered around the internet, i know which pins the charger uses and i know where they are located on the dongle. I also know there is very little access to them (as seen in the pictures in OP)
as to integrating the dongle INSIDE the prime casing you would, essentially, be succoming to the same problem the internal antennas have: Metal blocking the signal. Sure its a more powerfull antenna however its encased in PLASTIC not metal, the signal it recieves is a lot stronger and there is less EMI caused by the metalic back plate. Short: Yes you can, no you dont want to.
Finally, the pins the prime uses to draw power are different than the pins the charger uses to supply power. Think one lane dirt road vs a 6 lane highway. On the highway you have dedicated lanes for traffic going in different directions. this is similar to how the prime dock connector works, the prime can turn off power to different connections depending if there is something plugged in reducing the chance of a short, spark, or power drain.
Hopefully this addressed your concerns, maybe when i have apropriate tools handy and a bit of time i may try soldering a connection to the dock connector and see how it functions but as you can see its REALLY tight. I will do my best, no promises.
I also plan, in the near future, to locate more of the data pins, see whats going on, maybe we can make a USB adapter for the dongle and use it in other devices as well! who knows, im thinking it just uses a standard USB interface but it will take more digging.
Subscribed as I see no need for the dongle unless you have enough power.
Though I was pretty sure you were sure I just wanted to ask.... but you did misinterpret my idea, I do not mean the Prime's casing but rather integrating the gps into a case which holds the prime...This is not to say that the gps is big or in the way but just an idea i had to help people with cases and a use for the gps, but since the usb uses different pins that looks unlikely as well i guess...well I will stay updated and if I learn anything I will post.
I would be more interested in adding a power jack of some sort to the dongle. So you can charge while using navigation. I already can not use my dock while plugged into the dongle. We need power!
Hello everyone,
Motivated by my tablet's failing USB connector and the great difficult of importing an original B&N charging dock (I'm overseas right now), I decided to try and see whether I could DIY a charging connector mysef, that would connect to the "quick connector" in the tablet's bottom.
First the good news:
I discovered that a standard 0.1" (2.54mm) PCB header like these has the exact pin size/spacing to make contact with the quick connector. So, no need to "fabricate" a connector from separate pins.
I used a digital multimeter to measure voltage on the pins, with the tablet both on and off, and with a USB charger both disconnected and connected, and apparently pin #1 (counting from the left when holding the tablet in landscape mode and looking at its front) is +5VDC, and pin #2 is GND (pin #3 seems to be a direct connection to pin #2 -- they are always at the exact same voltage --, and pins #9 and #10 seem to be +D/-D, not necessarily in that order).
Now the bad news:
I connected a 5V power supply to pins #1 and #2 as above (ie, +5VDC to pin #1 and GND to pin #2), but the tablet doesn' t react in any way (doesn't light up and show the "charging screen" when powered off, nor shows the "lightning bold" charging indicator in the battery icon in the notifier when powered on).
I tried changing GND to pin #3 (see above), with the same lack of results.
The moderately good news is that my attempt did not "fry" anything, the tablet kept working the same as before.
Does anyone have any more info on this "quick connector", or perhaps a better "solution" to my failing USB connector issue (I would be willing to disassemble and replace the USB connector, but I've searched Youtube and iFixIt to try and find a how-to-disassemble video, to no avail. The best I could find was these "internal photos" from the tablet' s FCC submission, but it doesn't show how to open it, and I see no screws nor anything -- not willing to try prying it open at the seams and risk cracking the case or worse).
Thanks in advance,
-- Durval.
Durval,
I came here from your posts on the GitHub issue. You've done some interesting work so far!
It's interesting that you found the pins are just like USB. I wonder if the Nook uses some sort of protocol to negotiate charging over the Pogo pins, like Apple devices put a resistor across the D pins IIRC.
I know someone who's replaced the battery so they might be able to guide you with opening the device. Their discord channel is here (they also posted in the GitHub issue). You might be able to buy a cheap Micro USB port and solder it into the board.
tgp1994 said:
Durval,
I came here from your posts on the GitHub issue. You've done some interesting work so far!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear you like it!
tgp1994 said:
It's interesting that you found the pins are just like USB. I wonder if the Nook uses some sort of protocol to negotiate charging over the Pogo pins, like Apple devices put a resistor across the D pins IIRC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It could be. I also remember that a long time ago (like, 2008) I had an original (pre-Android) Motorola Razr which wouldn't charge except in a computer or with Motorola's own charger. I was thinking of full-blow USB connect negotiation... but you are right, it could be just a resistor or something.
I'm just not too keen on connecting more 'stuff' into those pins by trial and error, specially the supposed D+/D- things... I've managed to not fry the device so far, but one never knows when one's luck is running out until it finally does...
tgp1994 said:
I know someone who's replaced the battery so they might be able to guide you with opening the device. Their discord channel is here (they also posted in the GitHub issue). You might be able to buy a cheap Micro USB port and solder it into the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Many thanks for the Discord link! I will be sure to contact them and learn what I can re: opening the device.
Cheers,
--
Durval.
Just keeping the thread posted: I posted a similar question on the Discord server linked above, here's what I got:
Ryzen5-3600 | iPhone 12 Pro Gold — Today at 9:13 AMIt's really difficult to open the Nook Tablet. Mine had a cracked screen so it was easier to open up the device. The screen is made out of this really cheap plastic, it breaks so easily. My guess is to get like a small plastic guitar pick and pry open the back.
[9:14 AM]
You might have to get like 3 or 4 for safe measures to help keep it open so it won't close shut again
So, I think it's better to refrain from trying and opening my Nook, at least for now ;-)
I'm trying to get a dock, when/if I get one I will open it and see for myself what the heck it does to make the Nook recognize it.
I will keep this thread posted.
Cheers,
-- Durval.
Two years late to the party, but I recently purchased two of the 10.1" nook keyboard covers @ my local B&N for $5 each, to play around with. If my suspicions are correct, and this keyboard controller outputs USB, the first four pins left to right should be GND, (I assume D+, D-), then I assume VCC.
I might be wrong. But I'm fairly confident that GND is pin 1- continuity between the pin and the ground pin on the keyboard controller PCB.
hugoyhu said:
Two years late to the party, but I recently purchased two of the 10.1" nook keyboard covers @ my local B&N for $5 each, to play around with. If my suspicions are correct, and this keyboard controller outputs USB, the first four pins left to right should be GND, (I assume D+, D-), then I assume VCC.
I might be wrong. But I'm fairly confident that GND is pin 1- continuity between the pin and the ground pin on the keyboard controller PCB.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you have any luck? I bought the same keyboard for $4 at my B&N and just tore it apart. Turns out it only uses 5 of the 10 pins. The white box in the pic was pulled off so it originally did fit slightly more forward. Hopefully you can tell where it's supose to go.