No Rubber seal found in my watch!! - Ornate TrueSmart

I finally was able to open my Truesmart today after receiving a quality set of screwdrivers ---- But when I got the case opened, there was no rubber seal in there that everybody else has. I removed the battery and added a 16gb micro card. I then put back the battery and closed up the case with the screws. It seemed to fit back just fine and it looks tight, but without that rubber square, I cant let this thing get anywhere near water.
I dread trying to communicate with omate to try and get the rubber seal, but I don't know of any other options.

The seal is a very thin ring that sits in a groove. So no seal on your's. Contacting Omate is your only option short of filling the groove with RTV silicone and hoping for the best.

I really can't believe this is happening...
Every other post or thread is about something that's missing or it's not connected...
What's happening....?!
Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

@funky0308
10 or less people having to deal with tens of thousands of orders (according to sources) and hand assembling every one.

Lokifish Marz said:
@funky0308
10 or less people having to deal with tens of thousands of orders (according to sources) and hand assembling every one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry Loki but that just sounds worse...
I know that and I just can't believe someone let that happened...
They could hired some students to help them but....O.K, won't start another thread with complainings...
Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

The seal may be there, you just don't see it. Not trying to insult anyone here.
Long story short, I think I FUBAR'ed my SIM card slot because I had to use a nano->microSIM adaptor, when I was removing my sim card, half way out, something "snagged" the adapter, I couldn't get my SIM out so I pulled/forced it out. When I tried reinserting the SIM card, the "spring" doesn't work and my card was stuck inside...furthermore, no SIM detected so there goes that idea.
I removed the back panel and battery to get to the SIM card slot from the inside. Following Kurt's maintenance video, I removed the 2 additional screws inside to remove the "interior" cover. ONLY then did I notice the thin rubber seal around the edges.
TL;DR - maybe it's just me but I didn't notice the thin rubber seal until I further disassembled the TS.

sm753 said:
The seal may be there, you just don't see it. Not trying to insult anyone here.
Long story short, I think I FUBAR'ed my SIM card slot because I had to use a nano->microSIM adaptor, when I was removing my sim card, half way out, something "snagged" the adapter, I couldn't get my SIM out so I pulled/forced it out. When I tried reinserting the SIM card, the "spring" doesn't work and my card was stuck inside...furthermore, no SIM detected so there goes that idea.
I removed the back panel and battery to get to the SIM card slot from the inside. Following Kurt's maintenance video, I removed the 2 additional screws inside to remove the "interior" cover. ONLY then did I notice the thin rubber seal around the edges.
TL;DR - maybe it's just me but I didn't notice the thin rubber seal until I further disassembled the TS.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just looked at the "Hardware maintenance on the Omate TrueSmart" youtube video again that Kurt made, and at the 2:37 mark you will see that He just opened up the first four screws of the back case and took out the square rubber ring seal from the back cover. This was before he removed the 2 additional screws to get to the interior cover. This is what I am missing on my truesmart unit.

@fibroman
You have to be aware that there are at least three different case designs. Attached images show the area were the gasket sits on two of them as well as the gaskets side by side.
One (much older design) has a wide thick gasket. The other (newer design) has a thin narrow gasket that sits recessed in a groove.

Interesting. The 1/8/1900 I examined has the thicker gasket with the holes for the screws to go through and alignment nipples that fit into the main body. No groove.
The other, thinner, gasket looks inferior and the way the casing has been grooved is what you were saying earlier was an example of poor design ?
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Related

[Q] HD2 - Cannot remove housing

Hi,
I recently purchased a HD2 on eBay. It was supposed to come immaculate but unfortunately there are dents on almost all corners. Rest if perfect.
I saw on eBay some chinese sellers selling new housing + battery covers for ~25 USD. So why not replacing the housing then? I decided to give it a try.
Well I have to say that it really did not work like in the videos I saw on youtube. I removed the 4 screws under the battery cover, gently pressed the back of the LCM outward but it really refused to pop out (no even half an inch). I discarded the pry tool (a very thine credit card actually) and even tried using a suction cup on the digitizer to pull it backwards but same problem. It's like the LCM/chassis was glued on the bezel. Phone has never been disassembled before (white sticker and void screw were still both there).
This is strange because in all the videos I saw the LCM/middle chassis was clearly not glued on the bezel. It immediately popped out a bit then you could start prying (and praying!). Ok I know that in those videos usually the phone has already been disassembled before so other attempts require less force to do it again for the recording.
My questions now to all the people who managed to do this. Did this require so much force? Is there a change and is HTC now glueing this part the LCM/middle chassis to the bezel? Any suggestion? Where is for you the best place to insert the pry tool when you start?
Thanks and regards,
Try flexing the plastic bezel above the earphone outwards a little while applying slight pressure to the sticker area on the back. There're two notches above which locks the frame to the pcb.
Hi,
Thanks for your help.
I will try that later.
I guess I might need to find a better pry tool.
BR.
Ok I managed to do it.
This required clearly some force on the pry tool (actually I used two plastic cards : a very thin and flexible one than a credit card). I started the operation above the earphone area.
Applying pressure on the sticker area was stresfull because the LCD immediately reacted to the pressure (hence a risk to break it or damage it). Best was to put two fingers on the sticker area to help the LCM module to pop out but with (almost) no pressure.
I had a doubt and now that I managed to remove the housing it's gone. The antennas (those white stuff you see in both top corners and at the bottom) are glued to the housing.
I prefer to spend a few more bucks to take a housing which has those antennas already in.
BR.
i had a similar frustrating experience to yours in trying to snap the back off the chassis on my hd2 which had a fingerprint on the *inside* of the camera cover glass which i needed to open it to get at.
it sure looks easy in that HTC disassembly video on youtube but the tech there is using a sort of plastic hooked tool for the job, which i didn't have, so i used my thumbnail instead in the same place (the upper left corner, looking at the phone from the front) and it took me a good 20 minutes of applying what seemed like unreasonable pressure to my touchscreen and nearly tearing my nail off to get it to pop out.
those snap-tabs the electronics manufacturers use to hold cases together -- even when they also have screws to do the job -- are one of my all-time pet hates. i usually end up breaking them off.
I will be doing the same thing soon. So the housing you removed has antennas glued to it ?. Thanks for that, I will try get new housing with antenna together if possible.
I replaced my screen a while back and can confirm the main body of the hd2 is glued to the sides of the chassis.
It does come out but with a lot of force but pry the glue lose around the whole chassis first by sliding a thin card right ot the bottom of the case and slowlyu move and pry it upwards with 2 cards one on the top and other on the right after you losend the glue. the top has the wifi adapter n that so be careful bottom has usb so mite break.
honestly i would say don't bother replacing it and just get a gel case or something to hide the damage. there's a high chance of messing the digitizer up and would just cause you more trouble of taking the whole phone apart bit by bit and trust me the components are tiny so easily breakable especially the ribbon cables they decided to use. my honest opinion don't
fallenmonk said:
I will be doing the same thing soon. So the housing you removed has antennas glued to it ?. Thanks for that, I will try get new housing with antenna together if possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yep they are white thin bits glued to the top portion of the case. wifi on left and phone on right if i remember. its been quite a while though since i took my old hd2 apart
Now that I know how to do this I will be easier next time.
Yes antennas are glued in the housing so best is to buy a housing which has antennas already in.
Important note : the antenna which is at the bottom of the housing exists in two different versions : EU or US so check with the seller which one he sells.
BR.
Top left : Amphenol-BT&Wifi-090820
Top right : Amphenol-GPS-090820
Bottom : Amphenol-EU-090828
If T-Mobiles US you need Amphenol-US
sirec said:
I replaced my screen a while back and can confirm the main body of the hd2 is glued to the sides of the chassis.
It does come out but with a lot of force but pry the glue lose around the whole chassis first by sliding a thin card right ot the bottom of the case and slowlyu move and pry it upwards with 2 cards one on the top and other on the right after you losend the glue. the top has the wifi adapter n that so be careful bottom has usb so mite break.
honestly i would say don't bother replacing it and just get a gel case or something to hide the damage. there's a high chance of messing the digitizer up and would just cause you more trouble of taking the whole phone apart bit by bit and trust me the components are tiny so easily breakable especially the ribbon cables they decided to use. my honest opinion don't
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i don't believe it's glued. as far as i can see the the case is held together with screws and plastic interlocking tabs. the trick is to get the latter to unclip.
No glue indeed just notches locking the LCM module to the bezel
Ok case closed
I got my new housing and the replacement went fine. For those who could be interrested I bought it on ebay from the seller forceviewer_uk in China. Everything went perfect so I can recommend this guy.

Credit card/Wallet phone case

I bought one of these for my dad: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KK9C7C
Terrible case. It was nearly 40 dollars, and it's just about the worst way to spend that much money. I wrote a review (only review) on amazon:
I ordered this case a week ago. It just came in today due to some difficulty with USPS, not Amazon's fault. I opened the packaging, and it was clear that it was a cheap product. It comes in a simple small box, something you would expect from a Chinese ripoff. The leather material is of ok quality. It doesn't scratch, and it is a nice color. However, the actual plastic which holds the phone is cheap, and mine came with a few chips on the edges. It feels like the phone could fall out any minute. The hold is not secure at all. The design of the case is overall terrible. The credit card slots won't expand, so putting more than one card in each slot is nearly impossible. The extendable flap is too loose, and often extends while in my pocket, allowing my pocket contents to come in contact with the phone's screen. Finally, the worst draw back is charging. I have to open the case entirely (flip it open) to charge the phone. The charging slot is at the bottom of the phone, and the case is made so the credit card holding section flips from the bottom to the top. This means there is a strip of leather blocking the charging port. Un-doing the button flap won't fix it, you have to completely expose the screen the charge the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So if anyone was thinking of buying this case: don't.
My dad still needs a new case. He insists on one of these types of cases. I've never used one, and I've looked at the normal companies, haven't found anything good. Does anyone know of one?

[Q] My SIM is stuck!!! Help!

I need to change SIMs and I can't get the old one out. Can anyone suggest how to do this without taking apart the phone??:fingers-crossed:
If the pins underneath are the issue, what has worked for me before is to get an empty (and dry) plastic drinks bottle... or some other piece of thin plastic and cut it into shape so that it can slip underneath the SIM. Once you have it under (it can be a bit of a fiddle), you can get a sharp object and use it to gently pull the SIM card as you pull on the plastic tab you made. This way, you have force acting under and on top of the SIM with the pins no longer getting trapped.
Do not force anything, apply gentle pressure only.
Are you trying to just pull it out or are you pushing it in so it pops out (like a microSD card)?
Sent from my GT-I9300
Thanks for the advice
Yep! I did it - I didn't realise that it was a push in and it will pop out type of thing. Thanks sooooo much!!!:victory:
Good thing you didn't broke it.
Almost happened to me

[Q] Screws way too tight... Any help?

I want to install an SD card, but the back plate of the Truesmart... is not possible to remove.
I've used the OEM screwdriver and my own screwdrivers, but I've only managed to undo two screws; the other two are stuck. I think it might be the fact that the grooves of the screws are too flat.
However, does anybody have tips or recommendations to undo these two screws?
There are tiny stickers that say "OK" under a microscope over two of the backplate screws, to prevent tampering and inserting your SD card and having to do warranty replacements. If you didn't remove them first, they are now filling up the inadequate Phillips #000 head slots with plastic sticker.
Throw away the little screwdriver thing it shipped with, unless you need it for stabbing Smurfs.
If you have to drill out the screws, the spare ones shipped with the watch are better quality anyway.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Use a better screw driver. I had to use one of my precision screw drivers to get sufficient grip on the screws to unscrew them.
speedyink said:
Use a better screw driver. I had to use one of my precision screw drivers to get sufficient grip on the screws to unscrew them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Be a bit careful, though, because one of my Sim card Compartment screws was way tight and I used a proper screw driver--and the screw sheared leaving about 1 mm stub in the bottom of the screw thread hole--at least, that is what I think must have happened since the screw in question is now about 1 mm shorter than the other.
I have written a nice letter to Omate, and got an initial reply--but, it's anyone's guess what their remedy will be?? Not a replacement watch I am sure.
Drilling and tapping screws that small is not possible--at least not by me.
I ended up having to apply heat to the screws in the sim cover to remove them. Intresting enough, there was no sign of threadlocking agent when the screws finally came out.
What exact kind of Screwdriver do you need?
I have problems with the standard one that came with the TS. No I want to buy a better one from Amazon or hardware-store.
I have the same issue, the screwdriver that came with the TS is pretty much useless. I was able to remove just one screw and the rest did not budge...
I am really disappointed with the design flaws of this device.
Yep, stock screwdriver is a POS.
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app
The driver I used is marked P0 - and i think it is this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-66-344M-4-in-1-Pocket-Screwdriver/dp/B0014KMDZ0
I think I bought mine in Tesco, it's pretty handy and better quality than I expected.

My Truesmart get moisture

Hello,
Something happened to my watch. I opened it to install an SD card. I did as the instructions says, carefully. The rubber gasket was well placed and I tightened the screws the maximum I could, with the provided screwdriver. I guess it would not be tight at all, because, although it has been wet three times and anything happened, Yesterday it was exposed to sweat for a while, and then washed the same way like previous times. Today it worked well all the morning, but around noon, I saw it appeared many stripes on the screen and checking the clock externally I've finally seen condensation into the lens, so I guess, obviously, that moisture has entered inside the watch. I've opened the watch, remove battery and SD card, and then introduced it into rice, using an airtight container to try drying it.
Lens condensation has disappeared, but in the display is still appearing lines.
I wonder what can I do, who should I contact for assistance to repair, where should I send it for repair in case I can't revive the screen, because as I think, this type of damage is not covered by warranty.
I am disappointed with this device because of this. It should not be so complicated to close it and to keep it well sealed. Its design in this particular point is disastrous. I can ensure that the rubber seal was installed properly, and the only thing I can imagine is that the screws do not stay tight properly, but I repeat that I tightened it all the way I could, strongly, until the limit of not to damage the screw heads, and checking for the joints are well sealed. If I finally can fix the watch, the next time I need to open the back cover, I'll pre-tighten it with a sergeant tool before tightening the screws... it seems to be necessary...
Thank you for your help.
It is ruined. Sell it for parts maybe. A shame.
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lanzas said:
If I finally can fix the watch, the next time I need to open the back cover, I'll pre-tighten it with a sergeant tool before tightening the screws... it seems to be necessary...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a waste of time. There is no way to make the existing case waterproof - not just the two screw openings but also the antenna, speaker, microphone and buttons are all possible routes for moisture ingress.
One look at the SIM cover and its pretend gasket convinced me of this. There is not enough structural integrity to ensure a good seal. The gasket will not be compressed in a way that makes a watertight seal - over tightening might even make things worse by deforming the plastic.
If you ever get it to work again, keep it dry.
lanzas said:
Yesterday it was exposed to sweat for a while, and then washed the same way like previous times.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not a very good idea to wash an electronic device that has no water / moisture protection what so ever (the seals don't do much good, and there are lots of other gaps in the watch where water can get in). Sometimes devices can recover when dried completely. Maybe put it in a bag of rice, that's great for absorbing moisture... But most likely, it's dead.
It is supposed to be a waterproof watch...
Definitely the screen is broken. The watch works fine, but the screen shows a lot of lines that don't allow clear visualization. No one from Omate answered my email...
I feel cheated... and silly...
You WERE cheated, we all were. Don't feel silly though, you were misled by a pro.
You might possibly be able to replace the display with an iPod Nano display, but I don't know anyone who has and an iPod Nano display might be worth more than your TrueSmart.
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