My Truesmart get moisture - Ornate TrueSmart

Hello,
Something happened to my watch. I opened it to install an SD card. I did as the instructions says, carefully. The rubber gasket was well placed and I tightened the screws the maximum I could, with the provided screwdriver. I guess it would not be tight at all, because, although it has been wet three times and anything happened, Yesterday it was exposed to sweat for a while, and then washed the same way like previous times. Today it worked well all the morning, but around noon, I saw it appeared many stripes on the screen and checking the clock externally I've finally seen condensation into the lens, so I guess, obviously, that moisture has entered inside the watch. I've opened the watch, remove battery and SD card, and then introduced it into rice, using an airtight container to try drying it.
Lens condensation has disappeared, but in the display is still appearing lines.
I wonder what can I do, who should I contact for assistance to repair, where should I send it for repair in case I can't revive the screen, because as I think, this type of damage is not covered by warranty.
I am disappointed with this device because of this. It should not be so complicated to close it and to keep it well sealed. Its design in this particular point is disastrous. I can ensure that the rubber seal was installed properly, and the only thing I can imagine is that the screws do not stay tight properly, but I repeat that I tightened it all the way I could, strongly, until the limit of not to damage the screw heads, and checking for the joints are well sealed. If I finally can fix the watch, the next time I need to open the back cover, I'll pre-tighten it with a sergeant tool before tightening the screws... it seems to be necessary...
Thank you for your help.

It is ruined. Sell it for parts maybe. A shame.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

lanzas said:
If I finally can fix the watch, the next time I need to open the back cover, I'll pre-tighten it with a sergeant tool before tightening the screws... it seems to be necessary...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a waste of time. There is no way to make the existing case waterproof - not just the two screw openings but also the antenna, speaker, microphone and buttons are all possible routes for moisture ingress.
One look at the SIM cover and its pretend gasket convinced me of this. There is not enough structural integrity to ensure a good seal. The gasket will not be compressed in a way that makes a watertight seal - over tightening might even make things worse by deforming the plastic.
If you ever get it to work again, keep it dry.

lanzas said:
Yesterday it was exposed to sweat for a while, and then washed the same way like previous times.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not a very good idea to wash an electronic device that has no water / moisture protection what so ever (the seals don't do much good, and there are lots of other gaps in the watch where water can get in). Sometimes devices can recover when dried completely. Maybe put it in a bag of rice, that's great for absorbing moisture... But most likely, it's dead.

It is supposed to be a waterproof watch...
Definitely the screen is broken. The watch works fine, but the screen shows a lot of lines that don't allow clear visualization. No one from Omate answered my email...
I feel cheated... and silly...

You WERE cheated, we all were. Don't feel silly though, you were misled by a pro.
You might possibly be able to replace the display with an iPod Nano display, but I don't know anyone who has and an iPod Nano display might be worth more than your TrueSmart.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Related

[Q] Revived water-damaged SGS2 (almost - advice needed)

Hi everyone.
<SKIP> (if you don't like reading a lot)
So, I managed to do a very silly thing *slaps own wrist*. After spilling some food on my brand new pair of shorts, I chucked them straight in the washing machine without thinking. After about 5 minutes, I noticed a slight knocking noise coming from the washing machine, and alas, when I dug my hand in the water to try find the culprit item, I pulled out my drenched SGS2.
Now, as any technically-minded person does after such an incident, I immediately pulled out the battery, SIM card and memory card, and went sifting through my kitchen for rice. It was in the sealed bag of rice for about 1.5 weeks, after which I tried to turn it on. It worked! However, the touch screen wasn't responding, so bag into the bag.
Closer to two weeks, I took it out again. This time, everything seemingly worked fine! I did however notice while using the back camera that some residue from the water has stuck onto the rear camera lens. It also took me a while to notice that the bottom microphone isn't working, which defeats the point of having a phone.
Everything else works fine. I took it to a local repair shop (which I'm a bit doubtful of) and they came back to me saying they couldn't do anything.
</SKIP>
So, in conclusion, the bottom microphone isn't working (people can't hear me during calls), and the rear camera lens has residue on it (which can be seen when using the camera):
1) Assuming the warranty is now void due to water damage, do you think I should try my hand at replacing the microphone/USB board on my own? Has anybody done it, and has some pointers? Anyone know a good place to get these?
2) Is anyone aware if the camera area can be broken down to such a point that I can wipe the residue off the lens?
I'm tempted to just take it to another repair shop for them to try - really don't want to go to Samsung though, as they'll likely charge a small fortune.
Thanks for the help in advance,
MrP.
MrPadie said:
Hi everyone.
<SKIP> (if you don't like reading a lot)
So, I managed to do a very silly thing *slaps own wrist*. After spilling some food on my brand new pair of shorts, I chucked them straight in the washing machine without thinking. After about 5 minutes, I noticed a slight knocking noise coming from the washing machine, and alas, when I dug my hand in the water to try find the culprit item, I pulled out my drenched SGS2.
Now, as any technically-minded person does after such an incident, I immediately pulled out the battery, SIM card and memory card, and went sifting through my kitchen for rice. It was in the sealed bag of rice for about 1.5 weeks, after which I tried to turn it on. It worked! However, the touch screen wasn't responding, so bag into the bag.
Closer to two weeks, I took it out again. This time, everything seemingly worked fine! I did however notice while using the back camera that some residue from the water has stuck onto the rear camera lens. It also took me a while to notice that the bottom microphone isn't working, which defeats the point of having a phone.
Everything else works fine. I took it to a local repair shop (which I'm a bit doubtful of) and they came back to me saying they couldn't do anything.
</SKIP>
So, in conclusion, the bottom microphone isn't working (people can't hear me during calls), and the rear camera lens has residue on it (which can be seen when using the camera):
1) Assuming the warranty is now void due to water damage, do you think I should try my hand at replacing the microphone/USB board on my own? Has anybody done it, and has some pointers? Anyone know a good place to get these?
2) Is anyone aware if the camera area can be broken down to such a point that I can wipe the residue off the lens?
I'm tempted to just take it to another repair shop for them to try - really don't want to go to Samsung though, as they'll likely charge a small fortune.
Thanks for the help in advance,
MrP.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I replaced the earpiece (speaker) in my HTC HD2. It was a pain in the ass to tear down. I imagine that my SG2 would be even harder.
I found the earpiece on ebay for only about $10, and it even came with a few tools needed for the tear down (plastic pry tools). It was not for the faint of heart...meaning that I was stressed to the balls, and wasn't sure until it was over if I had destroyed my phone. So the microphone should be possible to replace, if you're careful and technically inclined.
The camera will also probably need to be replaced (although, you might find otherwise when you take it apart). The good news is that it shouldn't cost more than $20, but I have no idea really...just estimating. Here's a link to a guy's G+ post who did it click me.
If you look on google, you'll find youtube videos about the tear down and how to do it.
I'd watch those first to check the difficulty. I think I've also seen instructions somewhere, but don't remember exactly where.
Good luck. Stay calm and be careful.

LCD+Digitizer Replacement Tips

UPDATE: So, the digitizer I bought developed a massive dead zone. I already contacted the amazon store I bought it from, they're replacing it for me. Why does this matter? Because now I get to update this post with pictures/video! So, yeah, I guess this guide should get a lot more helpful soon.
Update 2: Ok, so, I don't even know how to express my anger and frustration. This girl at work shoved my phone out of my hands and into the leg of a table, completely destroying my phone. So, yeah, sorry, I guess I won't be updating with pictures/video, because the amazon store isn't going to take the screen back now.
Yo, guys. If anyone noticed that I was gone, I'm flattered, since I don't post a lot. But yeah, I havent had my Optimus G in about a month, so I havent been on this forum. In that time, I went through my Second Motorola Atrix HD, a broken Galaxy S3, and even lived through Google Voice on my computer. It's an extremely long story, and kind of ridiculous, so I'll spare the details.
HOWEVER, I did finally just buy a replacement Digitizer and LCD screen, and successfully installed it, and I want to share tips for anyone doing it themselves.
When removing the back, after you've removed torx screws, start prying the back off from in between where the Sim card and MicroSD go. Where the back of the phone and the chassis of the phone are separate is much more obvious in that cavity, PLUS dents/dings from jamming a screwdriver in there wont be noticeable when you put the bay cover back on.
Don't force anything off. Make sure you've removed every screw, unclipped every clip, and removed ribbons from everything you're trying to take off.
Removing the battery is tricky. Be careful not to deform it too much, cause that's dangerous. But there are 2 strips of double sided tape running horizontally beneath the battery. Try to get something between the top one and the battery, then carefully pull the battery off the second strip with your hands. sticking too much stuff beneath it to pry it up is going to cause some trouble, so lifting it with your fingers might be better.
Remove the motherboard. detatch all the ribbons, antennae, everything, then pull up from the left, then slide left and out. This is how I got it out with the least resistance, but there is no science to it. If you've gotten this far, you can figure out how to pull it out without breaking it in half.
Components that need to be removed before LCD+Digitizer removal:
Motherboard
Battery
Camera
Just put them off to the side, you don't want them damaged during the next part.
WARNING! If you plan on saving your LCD screen, DO NOT DO THIS. The high heat will cook your screen and make it unusable. Only do this to remove a broken or unsavable Digitizer+LCD.
Alright, now pull out the heat gun. Alternatively, you can do what I did, and use a hair dryer. Not even kidding, this will work fine, and will be hilarious when you tell your friends about it.
On a high heat, start heating the screen. If you're using a heat gun, just do your thing, you know how it works. Hair dryer folks, keep the dryer very low to the phone, low enough to feel the dryer being pushed up by the air, holding it just high enough so it sort of hovers. (You'll know what I mean when you try it. If you don't, just keep it about half an inch off the phone.) Move the dryer along the edges of the screen, all the way around, thats where the glue is. It should heat up pretty fast.
Using your pry tool, start at the speaker grill and pry all the way around the phone. lifting just slightly upwards. If it's not extremely easy, apply more heat. Work all the way around, then pull the screen off. Be careful, it's likely you'll shatter the screen even more at this part if you're not careful. User Bozwell had an excellent suggestion (post 4), cover your screen in tape, then begin separating the screen to keep from getting glass everywhere. Great idea, Boz!
Alright, so from here on out, it's just reassembling your phone correctly. Piece o cake.
Firstly, put your new screen in. If it came with adhesive, it's up to you if you want to apply it now. I'd think you probably have to, but up to you.
If you're like me, and no adhesive was provided, hold off on doing anything for now. Just put the screen in the hole, and thread the ribbons through.
The motherboard lines up with some contacts on the chassis in a few places, but most importantly, there is a connection on the top left corner of the body, and the UNDERSIDE of the motherboard that needs to be made. I believe it's proximity sensor, but not sure. It's very difficult to tell if its attached, but look at what I'm describing, and try your best to mate them.
Don't forget ANY cables. Like, that's pretty obvious, but even when you're sure you didnt forget any, check again. The camera's ribbon is underneath the screen's, don't forget that one. I reassebled the whole thing, everything was working perfectly, except I no longer had any mobile connection. I couldn't imagine what I'd broken, since that's a whole different area, but going to phone status and checking my signal strength revealed I forgot to reconnect the white antennae (status showed my signal at -200,000 dbm). So, double check, because the more often you have to reopen your phone, the more flimsy it's going to get.
Alright, screw the plastic shielding back on, reconnect your battery, then flip the phone to be face up. Power it on, test the screen to make sure it's functional. If all is well, power off and glue the screen in. What I did, and I welcome anyone to tell me a better glue type or method, is plain ol Super glue along all the edges where the old glue was. Press it in, flip it over, and while it's drying, finish reassembling the phone (should just be make sure everything is screwed in inside, then put back glass back on.
If your screen wasn't functional, I guess try to get it replaced by whoever you bought it from, and leave your phone disassembled for when it gets to your house.
Alright, that's pretty much the thick and thin of it, it genuinely isn't that hard of a replacement. I've done a number of digitizer/lcd replacements, not bad at all. I hope this helped anyone stuck or wondering about anything. This video can be used as a rough example, but it goes really fast.
Good Luck!
replacement of lcd/digitzer
the removal was a nightmare for me. It was hilarious when the glass cracked it was exploding into a million little bitty pieces. I didnt use much heat, and there lied my problem. But yeah mine cracked in a way that it was completely unresponsive.
gruiz3 said:
the removal was a nightmare for me. It was hilarious when the glass cracked it was exploding into a million little bitty pieces. I didnt use much heat, and there lied my problem. But yeah mine cracked in a way that it was completely unresponsive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haha that's crazy, it bothers me how fragile this phone seems to be.
To keep the glass shards from going everywhere try covering the screen in tape before you start.
bozwell said:
To keep the glass shards from going everywhere try covering the screen in tape before you start.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great idea, OP updated!
So, what would I do if the screen itself is ok and it's just the glass (and digitizer) that is broken?
MoFoQ said:
So, what would I do if the screen itself is ok and it's just the glass (and digitizer) that is broken?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You'll need a real heat gun, I think. You'll have to find a heat just hot enough to soften the glue, but not cook your lcd. Hair dryer method might work if you are extremely careful and very quick, but not sure exactly what the best method would be. Sorry
ripin150 said:
You'll need a real heat gun, I think. You'll have to find a heat just hot enough to soften the glue, but not cook your lcd. Hair dryer method might work if you are extremely careful and very quick, but not sure exactly what the best method would be. Sorry
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I figured...though I've been eye-ing using the screen+digitizer+front housing if and when they get back into stock.
(digitizer only is also out-of-stock)

Waterproofing after back case open

Thought id ask to see what kind of experiences everybody has had.... This isn't meant to be a warranty question I kinda what to ascertain what the TS can do instead of what it was meant to do
As I understand from the factory the TS should be able to withstand, hand washing, being rained on, sweat and the occasional spillage, I mention these as none of these having any additional water pressure that would force water ingress for example, showering.
Once you open the back case is it game over.... or if you properly screw back in you will get back the same level of water protection?...
I mean physical protection as obviously warranty is automatically void...
Anyone thought about getting some Hyrdrophobic coating?
http://www.nanostate.co.uk/flash-flood-to-waterproof-smartphones-and-tablets-5ml-p-3.php
Best advice would be to treat it the same as your phone. Try not to get it wet. I had to remove the cover on mine due to an issue flashing. The rubber seal was not properly placed from the factory to begin with.
Regarding the hydrophobic coating. I have considered it, but not some do it yourself process. There is a company that you can ship your device to. They will put it in a vacuum chamber and inject a gas that seeps into every tiny area. You can't get everywhere from a do it yourself kit.
I've opened the back case of my TS (voiding the water warranty) due to a factory shipped bad flash, and since to install a micro-sd card + check for water. I haven't had any seepage from wear in the shower or while washing dishes. I don't think the two physical buttons are designed to be used while submerged, and the touchscreen is useless when wet (if you're lucky, if it's covered in droplets the screen is registering touches all over the place).
removing the back cover does not break any magic water sealing. between the back cover and the housing is a thin and easily damaged rubber ring which needs to be reinstalled correctly. if you read through the forum, you'll find the QA process is not very refined, and many devices with unbroken "OK" stickers have suffered water damage among other issues
as you've alredy removed the back cover, you can remove the battery and do some testing to see if your seal holds. at least without power going through the circuits, any damage will be minimal and you'll know your tolerances.
--
The two buttons were exactly designed to be used underwater. The original design had no buttons, but kick starter backers pointed out that touchscreens do not work at all underwater. So Omate added buttons to the design. They just leak, that's all.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Checking water resistance / potential leaky places

Hello everyone.
I was looking for a non-damaging way for checking if the phone is still watertight with front glass cracked.
I supposed that increasing/decreasing the air pressure inside the phone and waiting how long it will stay deformed would be quite a good idea. (I understand that air-tight != water-tight)
To my surprise, blowing a compressed air into the microphone port causes to increase the pressure inside and deforms back panel, and then stays like this for a few seconds or more. (However I can't simply pump it with my mouth). Related video:
Then I tried to pump it and submerge in water to see where are potential leaking places. Here is the result (starts at 0:10):
It appears that most of the air goes through the microphone port, but there are also bubbles around panel, however the cracked screen seems tight.
My questions are:
1) Is it normal that you can pump the phone through microphone port like this and that the air comes out that quickly?
2) Should I improve the sealing of the back panel?
I'm not going to swim, just feel safer in case of rainy day or accidental splash.
Thanks in advance.
great vid. I'm a little bit surprised when I see the bubbles coming out when you did the waterproof test. I don't think that's supposed to happen.. but I believe it'll survive a rain and other watery splash. anyway does the phone functions normally after that? and how do you improve the sealing if I may know? thank you.
The phone seems fine. So far no problems occurred at all and I haven't seen any signs of moisture.
I assume that the sealing is made of heat-based glue, so I'll try heating edges (as you do before disassembly) and squeeze for some time. If that won't work, it would be necessary to take off the panel and replace the whole seal.

Batteries and rear glass adhesive driving me NUTS

Okay, story time. Some time ago, the battery in my Z5c swelled up and pushed the battery cover off the back of the phone. I replace the battery myself, & also order new (supposedly OEM) adhesive for the back glass. It does NOT stick on well, popping off one side or the other every few minutes. After fighting it for a while (ordering additional replacement adhesive and trying to re-clean and re-apply it a couple more times), it seems to finally stay in place.
Fast-forward a few months. I see the back glass coming off again. Oh, great, here we go again. I peel it off, and find that the replacement battery is a *little* inflated. Not by much, and not nearly as much as the original battery, but even though it seems to barely be a problem, it's also clear that the battery cover is not skin-tight as it was when it went in. Perhaps it was "enough" that given the tolerances inside, it still managed to push the back glass off. Okay, fine: I bought 2 replacement batteries at the time, so I'll put the other one in.
Fast-forward another few months to a couple of weeks ago. SAME BLASTED THING. Battery barely inflated, back cover coming off, but not really 100% clear whether the battery *really* is the culprit, or whether this adhesive I keep buying is just crap, or if I'm not applying it correctly.
Well, this time I'm running into the same problem trying to re-apply it that I did the first time around: it simply Will. Not. Stay. Put. I've tried the usual tricks I have read about: namely, making sure everything is squeaky-clean, and warming up the adhesive before pressing the back glass onto the phone, and then giving it a little time to cure with something heavy on top of the phone (if I had some clamps, I might try to use those instead). It helps for a couple of hours, but then the back cover just comes RIGHT off again.
Here is my hypothesis: either my phone's chassis is was not quite up to manufacturing standards, or I keep re-assembling it wrong, or something along those lines, because the battery sticks up slightly above the surrounding black frame. And what I can see when the back first starts coming off is that it is slightly "bowing" a bit...the top and bottom are sunk slightly below the plastic frame, but the middle bows out to the point where it rises slightly ABOVE the plastic frame. It's as if either the battery is sitting too high inside the phone, or the frame around the battery is sitting too low.
I have tried taking it all apart again and putting it all back together, but no dice.
Has anybody ever experienced anything like this? It's super frustrating. It seems clearly like a design defect. I just wish I could understand how things are different right now vs. when it was originally assembled at the factory.
Right now I'm sitting here seriously thinking that maybe the answer to this is to layer TWO back adhesive stickers on top of each other, in order to raise the edges of the glass back up enough above the battery that the back won't bow out anymore...
Argh!
...oh, also: and are genuine Sony batteries REALLY this crap in terms of quality?? If so, they should be ashamed and should have recalled many of these phones. I have yet to run into a genuine Sony Z5c battery that doesn't have at least a small build-up of gases within the battery pack after a few short months of use. I have been shying away from third-party batteries by no-name companies, but at this point I'm thinking that those could only be worse if they managed to spontaneously burst into flames.
In case anybody else who is struggling with the same thing ever ends up stumbling across this in the future, I seem to have finally managed to successfully tackle this problem. I finally got more pre-cut adhesive in, and yes: at least in my case, stacking two of them on top of each other has done the trick. (It's not easy lining them up in order to apply them to each other, either...I can tell you that much.)
I don't know if maybe all the adhesive that is out on the market is not "genuine" Sony and so not built to the same spec (maybe the genuine article is much thicker?), or if my particular phone's manufacturing tolerances are just outside the norm (either the battery is sticking up farther than it should, or the edges of the frame are sunk in further than they should be), or what. But using 2 stacked on top of each other instead of 1 seems to be the perfect thickness, allowing for the back glass to remain flush with the plastic frame's edges while also remaining perfectly flat.
I can tell you that at least on my phone, this is still not enough to ensure a tight water seal (pressure sensor doesn't change with increasing outside pressure). But it's hard to know if that's due to the way the back is applied, or some other issue elsewhere that's entirely unrelated.
ARGH. Nope. It lasted a lot longer than previous attempts, but now the upper-left corner, where the camera lens is, is already starting to lift off again.
This is *such* a stupid design.
Try using B7000 industrial glue from Aliexpress or other vendors, it can still be unglued by heat if repairs are needed, but should stay glued better and longer then these precut adhesives which are low in quality...
Thanks for your thread. I can feel your frustration! I'm having problems with the flash LED making weird green shadows in photos (like here https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/camera-flash-bleed.3368004/) I was thinking about opening the back cover to try and fix this and maybe install a new battery and a new camera lens while I'm at it. But now I'm afraid to open it up. I am pretty sure that a this point all "original" replacement parts that are available are fake. Should I ever find the courage: Is the back cover and camera lens made from one piece or must they be replaced separately?
Try to get the OEM adhesive strips and battery.
3m makes all sorts of industrial double sided strips. Get the right thickness if you go that route.

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