[MOD] Wireless Charging Mod (Palm S5) - Sprint Galaxy S 5 Android Development

For those of you who don't know I got my start in the mobile arena with the Palm Pre and Pixi. Although others will argue with me, they were quite literally the best phones ever! They did have a few drawbacks, the biggest one being that HP bought Palm and didn't know how to build the brand so they killed it... Recently it was announced that HP was shutting down their server support for all things Palm. This means no more device activations, no App Store, etc. This announcement created some nostalgia for me and I started reminiscing on all the amazing things Palm did that Android still doesn't do right. The biggest was their wireless (inductive) charging. I've tried various different Qi chargers and other methods but they were all unreliable or caused my device to run really hot when it was on the charging pad. I stumbled on a few tutorials that showed how to take the Palm Pre and use it to mod the Android device and create an inductive charger. I've taken their instructions and modified them to work on the S5 and with a Palm Pixi (cheaper parts and easier setup).
Prerequisites (Picture #1)
- Samsung Galaxy S5
- Palm Pixi Back Cover
- Palm Touchstone Charger
- Conductive Copper Tape
- Electrical Tape
- Palm AC/USB Wall Charger (although not required they work best with the Touchstone and are also very well rated as a stand-alone charger)
Negative Side Effects
- I've found is that this mod causes NFC to either not work at all or intermittently. I don't use NFC so it's not a problem for me.
- This creates a slight bulge in the back of the device. I haven't tested it but this could impact the water resistance of the device.
Instructions
1) Take the Palm Pixi back and remove the insert as indicated by the red and yellow arrows. I have found the best success starting in the bottom left corner, as indicated by the yellow arrow (Picture #2).
2) When removing the back be very careful not to lose the four metal discs, indicated by the four arrows. These discs are what hold the device to the Touchstone. There are many ways to keep these in place but for convenience sake I used electrical tape, the yellow arrow shows what they looked like before being covered (Picture #3).
If the discs do happen to fall out I find it useful to place the charging assembly on the Touchstone and then put the discs in the four corners and then tape them down. The Touchstone does all the alignment work for you!
3) Remove the back cover from your S5. Hold it in place on the Touchstone. Take the insert from the Pixi and apply it (black side up) to the S5 cover. Then take a US quarter ($.25 piece) and place it between the bottom edge of the USB space on the S5 and the table (Picture #4). Once you have it aligned tape down the Pixi insert with electrical tape (Picture #5). Take note of the two copper leads sticking out of the back of the insert for the next step.
Take extra care to make sure you don't cover the gray rubber pieces. One, because the electrical tape doesn't stick to them well. Two, because these are what make the device water resistant. As stated, I haven't tested the water resistance with the mod but let's not tempt fate, shall we?
4) Take the other part of your S5 and locate the two charging ports (indicated by the arrows in Picture #6). Run copper tape along the back of your device so that the two copper leads from Picture #5 connect to the port with the same number in Picture #6. Once you have a good connection cover the ports with electrical tape. The copper tape has a tendency to come out of the ports and the electrical tape holds it in.
I found it best to fold the copper tape in half lengthwise (so the adhesive was out on both sides) and then roll the ends of the tape over themselves to make it a little taller. I then pressed the ends down into the charging ports to give them a better connection (Picture #7).
5) Take the back of your S5 and hold it an angle above the back of the phone (as if you were going to put it on) and visually check to make sure that everything lines up as it should (Picture #8). If it does then close the cover and press down to make sure everything clicks in to place.
6) Plug the Touchstone in, place the new Palm S5 on the Touchstone and watch for charging notification.
If you find that you aren't getting a charge check to make sure the copper leads line up with the ends of the copper tape and that the copper tape has a good connection in the charging ports. Then close the case and try again.
Enjoy!
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

Pictures 1 - 5: http://www.rwilco12.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=953&pid=1365#pid1365
Pictures 6 - 10: http://www.rwilco12.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=953&pid=1366#pid1366

Love it! I Would love to have an angled QI charger. I would like to point out, that I'm using the samsung charging cover and authentic samsung charging pad and I have zero issues and I'm running your rom and the wireless charging is flawless, however having it flat is an annoyance. Will give this a go if I can get my hands on the pixie block
Followup: The wireless charging cover from samsung adds bulk to the phone so it doesn't sit in the case properly anymore. If i was reading correctly, your method uses the stock battery door that came with the device?.

It's a shame I threw out my Palm Pre backcover and touchstone charger(s) when I got the HTC Evo. I still think it's a shame that WebOS didn't get the respect it deserved. Look what I found on Amazon though. Might have to check it out.
Edit: Read the text about the item, looks like Amazon did proof-read too well as I can "bid" on the item... lol

eeeeeeeeek said:
Love it! I Would love to have an angled QI charger. I would like to point out, that I'm using the samsung charging cover and authentic samsung charging pad and I have zero issues and I'm running your rom and the wireless charging is flawless, however having it flat is an annoyance. Will give this a go if I can get my hands on the pixie block
Followup: The wireless charging cover from samsung adds bulk to the phone so it doesn't sit in the case properly anymore. If i was reading correctly, your method uses the stock battery door that came with the device?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's one of the biggest perks I forgot about! The slant on the Touchstone is perfect for watching a movie in landscape mode or even just for a quick glance at the screen, no more needing to crane my neck to look down on the device.
But yes, I used the stock battery cover but it is a pretty tight fit with the mod and it does create a slight bulge.
I was originally going to try the Samsung wireless charging but I'm a cheapskate. lol

Ramer84015 said:
It's a shame I threw out my Palm Pre backcover and touchstone charger(s) when I got the HTC Evo. I still think it's a shame that WebOS didn't get the respect it deserved. Look what I found on Amazon though. Might have to check it out.
Edit: Read the text about the item, looks like Amazon did proof-read too well as I can "bid" on the item... lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow... I tried to read it and I don't even have a clue what it is!
I agree with you on every front, WebOS deserved a much better fate than winding up as the backbone for an LG TV. Good news is that you can still get Pre and Pixi back covers for dirt cheap on Amazon. I just bought two more Touchstones for $11.00 so they aren't that bad either.

S5 Wireless
On the back of the s5 (the actual back without the cover), you have the wireless slots. Wich one of those slots are negative and which are positive?

kushal100 said:
On the back of the s5 (the actual back without the cover), you have the wireless slots. Wich one of those slots are negative and which are positive?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm going by memory since I no longer have the phone but I'm 99% positive that the bottom one was.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Related

Tetrax Xway Car Dock with modded Diztronic TPU Case.....

I was looking for a car dock option that was very minimalistic yet stable. Most car docks were big, clunky, ugly, needed to be attached to the windshield, or you had to put some 3M adhesive on your dash.
After seeing a few reviews here and on other forums, I decided to go with the Tetrax Xway. I grabbed it from Sears on sale for $20. This specific model is designed to clamp on to your vent and it has a magnet to hold your device in place. Your device will need a metal 'button' attached to it. They also sell other models that you can mount anywhere in the car.
I wasn't a big fan of attaching the button to the outside of the case on my phone because when laying it down on a table, it would wobble. So I decided to attach the button with a dab of gorilla glue to the back of my phone and then make a hole in my case (Diztronic TPU) so the metal button would be exposed. Now when the case is on, the button is exposed but not protruding out of the case.
The modification of the case took a little trial/error before I found the perfect tool to make the hole (Dremmel). So there are a few scratches on the back of the case. If it bothers me I'll just grab a new case.
On my phone I am using Car Home Ultra for my Car Dock app. I am not a fan of the stock Car Dock app so this works better. As part of its configuration, I have it set to launch when my phone is connected via Bluetooth to the Ford Sync in my car. It works really well.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
That's pretty sexy... I'd imagine it's pretty much impossible to remove the button off the back of your phone though, uh? (If you had to for whatever reason)
Scott
Delvorak said:
That's pretty sexy... I'd imagine it's pretty much impossible to remove the button off the back of your phone though, uh? (If you had to for whatever reason)
Scott
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea I figured if I'm going to do this, I have to be willing to buy a new housing if I want it off. Best case scenario, it comes off without too much damage to the housing. I will always have a case on it so I'm not worried about how the back of the phone looks.
I plan on watching for a good deal on an extra housing just to have.
hehe i see you had the glue pouring out of the back of the button like when i superglued mine to a seidio case...i wish they had just made the whole button flat instead of stamped and hollow. Gonna try it again with a kraken AMS i have on the way, lets see if the magnet can hold that beast.
lacrossev said:
hehe i see you had the glue pouring out of the back of the button like when i superglued mine to a seidio case...i wish they had just made the whole button flat instead of stamped and hollow. Gonna try it again with a kraken AMS i have on the way, lets see if the magnet can hold that beast.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you guys are going to stick buttons and **** on your phones, I'd recommend trying 3M double sided adhesive tape instead of glue. The 3M tape is super strong and can usually be peeled off and shouldn't discolor the housing; it's the kind of tape used for Command hooks. You can get it at Home Depot, Walmart, probably Target, etc.
Shady Gambino said:
If you guys are going to stick buttons and **** on your phones, I'd recommend trying 3M double sided adhesive tape instead of glue. The 3M tape is super strong and can usually be peeled off and shouldn't discolor the housing; it's the kind of tape used for Command hooks. You can get it at Home Depot, Walmart, probably Target, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have that stuff in various sizes and thicknesses, and while it works great for most anything, the magenet on the tetrax base is really strong so when i tried to use the tape it pulled it off if i just pulled the phone away from the mount. Tetrax recommends sliding the phone off the base and with the adhesive tape the sheering force made the button come off a little bit and shift over after a few removals.
The only way i could have increased the adhesion is by scuffing up the case, and if i had to do that, i might as well have superglued it as there was no turning back, which is what i did.
Shady Gambino said:
If you guys are going to stick buttons and **** on your phones, I'd recommend trying 3M double sided adhesive tape instead of glue. The 3M tape is super strong and can usually be peeled off and shouldn't discolor the housing; it's the kind of tape used for Command hooks. You can get it at Home Depot, Walmart, probably Target, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Another option that may yield a slimmer mount is rather than 3M tape is to put one of the clear skins (xtreme guard,ghost armor or the like) and then mount the button with your glue of choice. That way if you want to pull the button off later you can just pull the skin off, My $0.02
seems like a great option i think if your looking for that sleek look.
How do you charge though? i use the dock i have mainly because it has the ability to charge the phone. i just stick it in and go. would you have to plug the charger in everytime you want to charge? maybe build one of those wireless charging kits in.
yocubed said:
Another option that may yield a slimmer mount is rather than 3M tape is to put one of the clear skins (xtreme guard,ghost armor or the like) and then mount the button with your glue of choice. That way if you want to pull the button off later you can just pull the skin off, My $0.02
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know how well that would work. I've used those skins before and I think the force needed to remove the phone from the magnetic mount would be enough to pull the clear skin off the phone. Little by little it would come off. If I had a skin I'd be willing to try it.
syaoran68 said:
seems like a great option i think if your looking for that sleek look.
How do you charge though? i use the dock i have mainly because it has the ability to charge the phone. i just stick it in and go. would you have to plug the charger in everytime you want to charge? maybe build one of those wireless charging kits in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, to charge you would have to connect a charging cable to it. For me, charging wasn't a huge requirement because I'm not in my car much. Maybe 10-15 minutes at a time.
So I figured I'd get one of those small/micro USB car chargers and plug it in to the 12V outlet right next to the vent. I'd have to move the Xway mount further left to make this work. Then get a short 1ft Micro USB cable with a right angle on it. Then use that during the times I'll be in the car for a long time.....which is rare.
Solid idea - the idea of the phone wobbling around on a flat surface is what is making me hesitate to get one of these. Does the lack of the ability to tilt/pan the phone bother you since it's entirely dependent upon the angle of the vents in your car?
mZimm said:
Solid idea - the idea of the phone wobbling around on a flat surface is what is making me hesitate to get one of these. Does the lack of the ability to tilt/pan the phone bother you since it's entirely dependent upon the angle of the vents in your car?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you unscrew the center section with the gold magnets the X has a bit of tilt to it in all directions, think of it as the X having a center concave hemisphere and the magnet section is a bolt with the corresponding concave hemisphere. When you tighten it the friction maintains the tilt/pan.

[MOD] Note 2 Wireless Charging [Origami style][No Solder]

Powermat wireless charging is now available to view here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2158978
======================================================================================================================
First let me say big thanks to Ryan_G for creating the Note 2 Wireless charging mod - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1951493
The style/technique I am going to show you is an improvement of my version on page 18 in the above thread - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=33655816&postcount=171
It's very simple, cheap, clean, and easy to do. No soldering required... just folding strips of copper foil tape, and since this is the age of gangnam style, I will call it
Origami Style
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need:
1. Palm Pre Touchstone back cover = http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200650663739?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
2. Copper foil tape (6mm) = http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360430320375?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
3. Palm touchstone dock with wall charger - you can use an old charger with a 5v with a minimum 1amp and a mini usb plug - http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8474/8138632678_b0959be5ac_c.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The charging rate of this mod is around 12% per hour based on my testing...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
==========================
S-Pen problems ???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have also experienced this, and it happens when you place the Palm receiver is a little high. You should place the receiver in a low position. Make sure the Palm receiver's bottom is almost aligned to the bottom of the battery. Please see Pic 7 below.
==========================
pics:
Stick the charging unit on the back cover so that it will sit approximately on top of the battery.
Cut about 3-4 inches of 6mm copper foil tape then cut it lentghwise.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I'll let the pics do the talking....
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6. You need to remove the rubber sticker (see inside green circle) from the touchstone case, and put it on top of the contact points (rolled copper). This will put presure on the contacts as you fit the Note 2's back cover.
7. Below pic, green arrows show the approximate location of the copper on the back cover. The copper contacts on the back cover don't need to be perfectly aligned with rolled copper contacts on the phone, but this is your choice to make... (look at the green arrows again, and pic no. 10 below) Click link just below the picture for bigger image.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8065/8176857101_c857bec63b_k.jpg
8. On the back of the phone, on the right side of the battery are the terminals, stick another copper tape with rolled ends on each. Please note the top contact is the Positive, and the bottom is Negative, don't panic if the bottom copper tape comes in contact with the little screw as they are both negative.
9. You can see in pic below the rubber sticker I mentioned earlier in picture no. 6
bigger pic here: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8489/8176892024_b5f1333d95_k.jpg
10. This is how they will line up... don't forget to insulate the other exposed parts of the copper tape. I use Kapton tape, but you can use anything like electrical tape.
#############################################################
I have successfully used this mod with a Rock case. I had to sand the inner side of the case though.
##############################################################
Mod versions:
V1 = "Z" connector, needs etching and most expensive and time consuming
video
V2 = Origami
V3 = modified V1. Does not require etching so saves time and dosh.
video below.
Please NOTE, the mod below causes S-Pens problems. The only reson is that the receiver is a little too high. Once I replaced the contacts to the original "Z" design, the problem with S-Pen was gone.
I was also hoping to do this mod to a powermat wireless charging unit, but I was disappointed to find out the powermat receiver unit is so thick. See pictures below:
image below shows the actual innards of the powermat universal receiver which is charging my wife's Desire HD phone. Look at the light on the left from the powermat dock, and the green light on the phone.
image below shows the palm toughstone front alongside the powermat
and below shows the back sides ;-}
palm/powermat porn:
here we can clearly see the thickness on the powermat.
Only hope we have to be able to utilize the powermat is if there are Note 2 back cases that have more room inside to accommodate the thickness of the powermat, or if there is a thinner powermat receiver.
Confirmed works on the following variants:
N7100 International version
N7105 INternational version - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=33830216&postcount=239
Canadian i317M (Bell Canada) - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=34140856&postcount=29
AT&T - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=34191869&postcount=298
Confirmed does not work on:
(Copied from Ryan-G's wireless thread - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1951493 0
US TMobile Note II SGH-T889 (Has the charging pins for wireless charging)
Please see http://forum.xda-developers.com/show....php?t=1978276
Sprint Note II (has no slots for charging pins, but confirmed working when taking the middle housing cover off and finding the wireless charging contacts underneath)
Have a look at this http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...&postcount=240
This looks interesting....
Awesome! Eagerly awaiting!
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
Good news!
sent with my beast N2, powered by Cis80 and the red pill...
Nice work
Inviato dal mio CIS N2-7100 con tapatalk 2
Nice Thanks for sharing!
About to pull the trigger on this- can you share the ebay link where you got the copper tape from? Don't know which one to get
very useful..!
Don't forget to put some insulating tape over all that exposed copper... You just want the ends exposed.
so this really works? wireless charging just sounds like it wouldn't exist lol. how good does it charge and how exactly?
You never heard of Nikola Tesla?
He in theory proved that you can deliver electrical current thru the air or via the clouds...
Imagine having free electric. Now who do you think doesn't want that to happen
Nuf OT.
Is it a must to have copper tape? How about thin gold tape?
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
how far do you have to be from a device? and generally everywhere you got there is one readily available?
entwicklun said:
how far do you have to be from a device? and generally everywhere you got there is one readily available?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the phone needs to be docked
entwicklun said:
so this really works? wireless charging just sounds like it wouldn't exist lol. how good does it charge and how exactly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a very simple principle that's been around for decades... Electric toothbrushes have used it for years due to the safety around water.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inductive_charging
I meant to ask this in the other thread but I'll ask here...
Does this affect the S-Pen function since it uses magnets?
I have all the parts ready to go but am slightly hesitant.
Can this be done, and has it been, on the sprint version?
sent from my sgs2e4t running cm10.
Subd
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using xda app-developers app
mikelav456 said:
Can this be done, and has it been, on the sprint version?
sent from my sgs2e4t running cm10.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Apparently this mod does not dowrk with: (Taken from the first page of Ryan_G's wireless thread...
US TMobile Note II SGH-T889 (Has the charging pins for wireless charging)
Please see http://forum.xda-developers.com/show....php?t=1978276
AT&T Note II (Same as US TMobile, has the charging pins but doesn't work)
Sprint Note II (has no slots for charging pins, but confirmed working when taking the middle housing cover off and finding the wireless charging contacts underneath)
Have a look at this http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...&postcount=240
CitizenLee said:
I meant to ask this in the other thread but I'll ask here...
Does this affect the S-Pen function since it uses magnets?
I have all the parts ready to go but am slightly hesitant.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope it doesn't affect any of the S-Pen function or even the compass, and NFC work normal aswell. The magnets are not strong plus the battery seems to shield it from the rest of the phone. I use the s pen for notes practically everyday for my job, I've also attached a screenshot of the Wacom Test which you can enter by dialing *#0*#

Blue to White housing swap, tips/thoughts/results

So I own a 32 ATT N6, I really wanted a white N6, but didn't want to shell out the 700 bucks for it up front, so just got the att. Once I found a middle housing for the white available on eBay, I had to give it a try. Just thought I'd share a few pictures, thoughts and my experience and tips about swapping them.
First the link to the silver housing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Housing-Mid...t=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item3a9eedce51
Took about 2 weeks or so for it to arrive, not terrible, but not amazon quick obviously. As far as I could tell, this is a real deal housing, looks good and other than the color, seemed to be identical to the stock blue.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
A few things to notice,
The new housing came with a new qi charging coil.
Did NOT come with a sim tray (This was disappointing, I guess I shouldn't have assumed it came with it)
No camera ring flash
Power/Volume cable was not connected
No FCC marking on the bottom of the housing
So you will have to remove the "ring flash" from your current blue N6, or buy a new one, and you may have to attach the power/volume ribbon cable to the connector. There is a little flap you raise and then slide it in, simple, just wasn't expecting it. The camera ring flash popped out pretty easily, pretty straight forward.
The biggest "issues" I ran into where,
Removing the old QI coil was not easy, or I should say removing it and keeping it clean/nice looking was not easy. If you look at the way the housing is put together, I think you need to use the new QI coil. Maybe not, but I think you'd be asking for trouble if you try to pull off the old QI coil and reuse it.
And my biggest mistake, I got it all back together, powered it up, and ran through a small list of tests to make sure I had everything working. Thought I did, so closed it up completely. WELL, apparently the top, or earpiece speaker is attached to the old housing. The ifixit video I was watching made no reference to this, and I didn't notice it. It's super simple to swap, just pressure connection, but I over looked it. SO don't be like me and have to take it apart twice.
Results.
Got everything back together, the housing fit fine, no issues with fit or finish, everything is working, and I think it looks great.
Feel free to ask any questions, I'll try to answer them the best I can.
Thanks
Peace
Dan
I may have to try this, id much prefer a white N6 but for the same reasons as you went with the blue
Thank you for sharing. I'm seriously considering this as well, but I've never done anything like it before.
You can use the Qi charger connection from the stock battery, way easier imo. Just remove the battery with Qi and swap it into the new housing. Take something small and pry up the one ribbon cable that keeps the qi ribbon in the housing. :good:
BTW, if anyone wants one of these and doesn't wanna wait two weeks, PM me....I have an extra.
Just did this myself, went from Blue to White... White mid-housing, w/ White back... a little tricky but in the end worked quite nice. Used the new QI coil with existing battery... even ordered new White SIM tray.
I've read that a dunk in some grease remover will remove the blue anodizing basically leaving you with the silver housing from the white Nexus. I'm wondering if this is the case for the sim tray as well. I ordered this housing but no tray as they are almost $15. Seems over priced.
Update:
Swap done. 3 screws stripped and had to be drilled/tapped but otherwise an easy job.
http://kryon.smugmug.com/Purenexus/i-bRKJdsk/0/O/OPERATIONPNbanner5x1.png
Your guide was very helpful and I thank you for that. I completed the change-out without issue and the phone looks so much nicer with the white back and silver frame. It's like getting a new phone. Also, this Ebay link is to a dealer selling the frame and back together for $30.95 which is a steel for both. They also sell the silver sim tray and will ship together. http://www.ebay.com/itm/252052573761?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
The buttons and sim tray can be soaked in Greased Lightning degreaser for 30 mins to remove the blue if you don't wanna spend for the silver ones.
That's how I did mine when I deanodized my N6.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
@rx2mazda did you remove the new qi coil (should be easy?) and simply drop the battery with the stock qi coil back in place?
I wish I have the balls to do this change.
The white housing looks awesome.
This post inspired me. Just got my silver housing and white back today. Swapping it out this weekend.
Thank you for this post! I have been thinking about doing this ever since I first got my Nexus 6. (Sprint only has blue as well) I really wanted the White Nexus 6 originally. Sure, I could just get a replacement white back but the blue bezel would still drive me nuts! I am going to order the housing / back / sim tray right now! I just have a couple questions:
What were the trickiest parts? I am mainly wondering about the camera. Was it hard to swap the camera, camera cover, flash over to the new housing?
I am going to order myself a nice clear case finally to! I like the Ringke Fusion, but I seriously hated the Midnight Blue scheme that bad that I would not get it! And why midnight blue anyways? Why couldnt they be black or white like normal phones? lol. They should of both had the same silver bezel and been available in black and white. Damn midnight blue.....
Also, with the display off can you get at the speakers I assume? I would love to clean the speaker grills spotless....
i found some sets that includes the sim tray, but after looking for the individual sim tray on ebay, i found that a lot are selling the micro-sim version.
can anyone confirm that either of these sets include nano sim?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/White-Back-C...-Google-Nexus-6-Motorola-Shamu-/361315725737?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/White-Motor...y-/271894817168?ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123
Are you a work on your own car kinda person? If so, could you give me an idea of what kind of job this is? Would love to do it, just want to know what I would be getting into.
Hamm1701 said:
Are you a work on your own car kinda person? If so, could you give me an idea of what kind of job this is? Would love to do it, just want to know what I would be getting into.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
not sure how a car plays into this. but here is the tear down video and guide: https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+6+Teardown/32877
So I just did this using ifixit as a guide. Ordered the set with the back cover and the nano sim (other wise the sim holder would have been $15 on its own). Only complaint with this set is that the sim holder's colour does not match the rest of the silver housing. I'd expect an item that small, that is usually $15 on its own, to have its colours right.
Rough steps:
-22 screws
-3 cables to reconnect
-flash ring and vibrate motor to transfer over
-make sure old glue is cleaned from any transfered parts
-use the original (attached) wireless charging coil to the battery
Notes:
-be careful when transferring the battery and the wireless charging coil, there is thin cable held by tape near the camera that is quite thin and tricky to align again
- be careful of the battery connector at the bottom, the plastic clip that gave leverage breaks very easily
- the cable that connects the power and volume buttons goes into the obvious connector beside it, but the connector has a plastic flip that goes up before the cable gets inserted, then down to secure the connection. It does not just slide in.
Hamm1701 said:
Are you a work on your own car kinda person? If so, could you give me an idea of what kind of job this is? Would love to do it, just want to know what I would be getting into.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
IMO, it's way too much work/risk just to have a different color housing. I wouldn't even put a different color back on it. Would rather just slap a skin on it. No risk and looks great.
Did the mid frame come with a white back cover?

Gear S back and charger redesigned by Samsung to solve breaking problem

After studying a Gear S bought in December in the US and a newer Gear S bought this week in Canada I believe Samsung have rather quickly initiated a running design change to solve the broken charger issue common to the initial design of Samsung Gear S watches.
The problem was this:
The top lip (nearest the thumb lever furthest from the charging pins) wears out or breaks off because the human thumb has a natural rotational angel when applying pressure to the thumb tab. This natural rotation forces the charger downward and because the bottom lip is on the outside, not the inside it, it cannot help hold the charger in place. The result is the slight downward movement of the charger causes increased pressure on the upper lip as it is forced against that from which it is trying to be pried off of. This constant grinding and increased pressure exceeds the initial design spec for the lip and eventually wears out the lip or breaks it off entirely.
The solution was to redesign the back casing of the watch with a small groove at the bottom and a matching sturdy protruding tab on the bottom of the charger. This tab fits tightly inside the watch grove when attached to the watch thus not allowing the charger to move downward when being pried off by your thumb at the top which in turn relieves the excess pressure on the upper lip.
I guess we will see how effective this fix is, but from the 5 broken charges I viewed all of them were the older design with no slot and tab.
I suspect that if you have the original version of this watch that you can avoid breaking the lip by pulling the watch off from the middle by prying it with your fingernails on each side thereby avoiding these rotational forces on either the upper or lower lip.
I also assume that Samsung will in the future releasing a fix whereby you can send the watch in for a new charger and a new watch back plate to solve this defect for early adopters. The louder you complain the more likely this will happen. Depending on what stock levels have been like in the US you may have these new designs in store there now. Canada didn't get the Gears S as quickly as the US so I am not sure if we got many of the old designs here in the first place.
Hmm, my AT&T launch day watch has the grove on the watch and the tab on the charger. So, I'm not sure this is the new design.
EDIT: Samsung USA has all four carrier variants using the same charging dock and the picture shows this
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
which is not the same as what I got when I purchased mine at the launch day. So what I got is what described above in OP. The charger dock as pictured above won't fit my watch as it has a tab on top of the speaker port which my watch doesn't have a grove for it.
Just ordered a backup charger dock today since it is in stock after being back ordered for a very long time. It will be interesting to see which version I will get.
The one you have pictured is not the new design, I will take a picture of the tab and slot later this evening when I get home and upload it. The new version requires an updated Gear S watch backplate with a cutout slot. The new version has the slot very very close and directly below the bottom lip.
That's what I said. It appears that mine is the 'new' version and I bought it @11/7/2014 launch day in US. So I'm not sure that 'new' design made any difference to its durability.
foxbat121 said:
That's what I said. It appears that mine is the 'new' version and I bought it @11/7/2014 launch day in US. So I'm not sure that 'new' design made any difference to its durability.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here are pictures added as attachments of the new charger with tab in a new location at the bottom and the back of the watch with a new slot at the bottom.
ShotEm said:
Here are pictures added as attachments of the new charger with tab in a new location at the bottom and the back of the watch with a new slot at the bottom.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this "new" design and broken charger... so it haven't helped...
That's exactly like mine.
yes mine looks this way too, and I got it right after launch.. I don't think that's "new"
However, I have no problems and have not broken my charger.
I wrote about this topic and added photos here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/gear-s/general/samsung-gear-s-charging-cradles-t3046489
My question is: were some Gear S watches made where the back of the watch has a long groove at the top (near the speaker port) and does not have the shorter groove at the very bottom (below the charging pins)?
If the Gear S was made with different backs, then they will only work with specific charging cradles.
The back of my Gear S (T-Mobile USA) does not have a long groove near the speaker port, so this is why one of the charging cradles did not fit/click on my Gear S.

Let's remake the Shield tablet internal stylus holder on the k1!

So I opened up my Nvidia shield tablet k1 today and saw that the internal stylus holder is actually still there. For the reason of budget costs I guess Nvidia decided to remove the "hole" that once let you sheath your stylus there. I havn't found any tutorials online that showed how to cut a decent sized hole to let the stylus rest in. So I guess I'll ask.... has anyone done it before successfully here?
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I've done something similar with a dremel and a couple of files in the past. It's something I plan on doing on my K1 now that I have a brand new device to play with.
Considering the the age of the device, I doubt anyone has tried this out yet.
Drilling a hole in the side of the tablet seems extreme. I have been searching for a case that might be able to hold the styles as well but with no luck. I have flip cover for the k1 and have been trying to think of a good idea as how to stow the styles on to it. For example if I had a piece of stretchy material that I attached to the cover somehow I could slide the styles into the makeshift pocket and it could hold the styles when not in use.
Would I be right in thinking that the back cover of the older model would fit the newer one? Seems like it would be a nicer solution than drilling and cutting. You could possibly even get some of the missing internal components that way. Just need to find a broken 2014 tablet.
If this fails you can always do what I plan on doing in case this proves to be futile. Attach magnets to either like on the Surface Book. On a side note: The back cover already is "precut", as is the whole stylus mounting hole as seen here:
That is really interesting! They kept costs low by using the same molds to create the plastic parts.
A quick question seeing as you've opened your back cover already: is there a button/mechanism in the stylus groove that could potentially detect if a stylus is removed? Just wondering if they still left that in there (hopeful thinking! )
fl4r3 said:
That is really interesting! They kept costs low by using the same molds to create the plastic parts.
A quick question seeing as you've opened your back cover already: is there a button/mechanism in the stylus groove that could potentially detect if a stylus is removed? Just wondering if they still left that in there (hopeful thinking! )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly that module is missing, so no hopes there. The speaker cable is also in the way and has to be taped down or something to the frame if you want to fit the stylus later on.
I knew it was unlikely but thought it was worth checking.
At least there's a place to store a stylus (although after drilling into the tablet).
Guys....I did it. I just used a file and filed away, put the cover back on, and inserted the stylus. It's perfect. I would take a picture but I don't have a camera.
jacobvsmith said:
Guys....I did it. I just used a file and filed away, put the cover back on, and inserted the stylus. It's perfect. I would take a picture but I don't have a camera.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tablet + Mirror.
Sorry, could not resist pointing out the lack of a camera irony whilst talking of a device with 2 built in.
I will admit that probably wouldn't make come out at a good enough angle to show the work well, but hope you got a quick chuckle.
zarish said:
Tablet + Mirror.
Sorry, could not resist pointing out the lack of a camera irony whilst talking of a device with 2 built in.
I will admit that probably wouldn't make come out at a good enough angle to show the work well, but hope you got a quick chuckle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
post memes and op will give chuckles.
Please teach me how to do dis... Going to buy the stylus soon...
I just read this and thought I'd pop open my K1 to see for myself. Yep. It's there. Wow.
I'd drill a hole in mine too but I have two problems:
1. That cable.
2. Dust/Water etc.
Sent from my SM-G935V using XDA-Developers mobile app
Anyone drilled and try to make use of the stylus slot?
care to share some finished image?
would definitely like to see how it goes.
I "drilled" a hole also, the stylus sticks perfectly, but there was a cable in the way. just som sticky thingy to hold the cable and youre done
http://i.imgur.com/bX0YXMS.jpg
I did that too. Used some files and some crazy glue (for the cable). Works great. I have some pictures here http://forum.xda-developers.com/shield-tablet/general/modding-directstylus-slot-shield-k1-t3408090
operative1 said:
I did that too. Used some files and some crazy glue (for the cable). Works great. I have some pictures here http://forum.xda-developers.com/shield-tablet/general/modding-directstylus-slot-shield-k1-t3408090
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would probably cover the ribbon with tape to prevent the stylus from sliding on the cable over time. Kapton tape would be the tape to use. How did you shape the notch in the back cover. Also when filing the metal area for the cable did you not worry about filings getting on the mainboard.
mirrin said:
I would probably cover the ribbon with tape to prevent the stylus from sliding on the cable over time. Kapton tape would be the tape to use. How did you shape the notch in the back cover. Also when filing the metal area for the cable did you not worry about filings getting on the mainboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cable is covered in a mixture of super glue and fine powder. No worries about shavings since I worked under constant airflow from the mainboard side to blow dust and shavings away
As for shaping the notch I used some jewelers files that had the right curve to them.
Stylus sensor can generally be found with 'nvidia shield digitizer' on ebay - sellers currently parting out new original style tablets - not real cheap, but you get a spare digitizer!
Gremlin60 said:
Stylus sensor can generally be found with 'nvidia shield digitizer' on ebay - sellers currently parting out new original style tablets - not real cheap, but you get a spare digitizer!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But why would they leave the whole circuit and components for the sensor if the sensor is not there...
They did 2 things to the main board a radio microcode update and the sensor removed from assembly any capacitors or resistors on the pen sensor circuit should also be left out... In addition they do have 2 different updates for the 2 tablets I imagine the k1 does not have the sensor as an active element...
That said i dont see that there is a whole lot of extra functionality given aside from auto wake on pen removal....

Categories

Resources