After studying a Gear S bought in December in the US and a newer Gear S bought this week in Canada I believe Samsung have rather quickly initiated a running design change to solve the broken charger issue common to the initial design of Samsung Gear S watches.
The problem was this:
The top lip (nearest the thumb lever furthest from the charging pins) wears out or breaks off because the human thumb has a natural rotational angel when applying pressure to the thumb tab. This natural rotation forces the charger downward and because the bottom lip is on the outside, not the inside it, it cannot help hold the charger in place. The result is the slight downward movement of the charger causes increased pressure on the upper lip as it is forced against that from which it is trying to be pried off of. This constant grinding and increased pressure exceeds the initial design spec for the lip and eventually wears out the lip or breaks it off entirely.
The solution was to redesign the back casing of the watch with a small groove at the bottom and a matching sturdy protruding tab on the bottom of the charger. This tab fits tightly inside the watch grove when attached to the watch thus not allowing the charger to move downward when being pried off by your thumb at the top which in turn relieves the excess pressure on the upper lip.
I guess we will see how effective this fix is, but from the 5 broken charges I viewed all of them were the older design with no slot and tab.
I suspect that if you have the original version of this watch that you can avoid breaking the lip by pulling the watch off from the middle by prying it with your fingernails on each side thereby avoiding these rotational forces on either the upper or lower lip.
I also assume that Samsung will in the future releasing a fix whereby you can send the watch in for a new charger and a new watch back plate to solve this defect for early adopters. The louder you complain the more likely this will happen. Depending on what stock levels have been like in the US you may have these new designs in store there now. Canada didn't get the Gears S as quickly as the US so I am not sure if we got many of the old designs here in the first place.
Hmm, my AT&T launch day watch has the grove on the watch and the tab on the charger. So, I'm not sure this is the new design.
EDIT: Samsung USA has all four carrier variants using the same charging dock and the picture shows this
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which is not the same as what I got when I purchased mine at the launch day. So what I got is what described above in OP. The charger dock as pictured above won't fit my watch as it has a tab on top of the speaker port which my watch doesn't have a grove for it.
Just ordered a backup charger dock today since it is in stock after being back ordered for a very long time. It will be interesting to see which version I will get.
The one you have pictured is not the new design, I will take a picture of the tab and slot later this evening when I get home and upload it. The new version requires an updated Gear S watch backplate with a cutout slot. The new version has the slot very very close and directly below the bottom lip.
That's what I said. It appears that mine is the 'new' version and I bought it @11/7/2014 launch day in US. So I'm not sure that 'new' design made any difference to its durability.
foxbat121 said:
That's what I said. It appears that mine is the 'new' version and I bought it @11/7/2014 launch day in US. So I'm not sure that 'new' design made any difference to its durability.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here are pictures added as attachments of the new charger with tab in a new location at the bottom and the back of the watch with a new slot at the bottom.
ShotEm said:
Here are pictures added as attachments of the new charger with tab in a new location at the bottom and the back of the watch with a new slot at the bottom.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this "new" design and broken charger... so it haven't helped...
That's exactly like mine.
yes mine looks this way too, and I got it right after launch.. I don't think that's "new"
However, I have no problems and have not broken my charger.
I wrote about this topic and added photos here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/gear-s/general/samsung-gear-s-charging-cradles-t3046489
My question is: were some Gear S watches made where the back of the watch has a long groove at the top (near the speaker port) and does not have the shorter groove at the very bottom (below the charging pins)?
If the Gear S was made with different backs, then they will only work with specific charging cradles.
The back of my Gear S (T-Mobile USA) does not have a long groove near the speaker port, so this is why one of the charging cradles did not fit/click on my Gear S.
Related
Additional note: With the same size button as I used here for the Platinum case, the holder is strong enough to hold a Trident Kraken case up fine.
A while ago someone mentioned the Xway and asked how well it should work with the Evo LTE. I've been using the HTC silicone case with a slipgrip mount on top of a brodit/proclip car bracket, which to my delight also works with the seidio case.
I decided to give this a try because I usually run with either a lightweight case or something more heavy duty for when I go do more outdoorsy stuff for the weekends, and i wanted a good way to have a clean looking and sturdy mount in the car without having to keep swapping mounts.
The kit i got from amazon comes with two of the 1x1 squares for the mount portion, as well as four circular buttons of various sizes. I went with the smallest of all the buttons:
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The platinum case has a soft touch rubber coating on it. I wasn't sure if it was going to stick so just to be on the safe side i took some sand paper to it and took a bit down until it was down to the plastic. Its been a few days and the button seems to be holding well.
The placement of the button isn't in the middle because for this particular case, when you place it in the mount the arms would fall in to the opening for the kickstand. At first i thought it would be better this way but in hindsight i should have just placed it right under the kickstand opening and let the arms fall in so that it would be canted towards me and also get stuck in there and not allow any rotation at all.
The soft touch rubber makes it harder for the xway bracket to keep it from rotating, which wouldn't be a problem if the button was placed in the center but since its off to the side in this instance, it does move ever so slightly when i hit huge potholes. This is the case in my car, which is lowered on track suspension, so i would think in SUVs and normal passenger cars it wouldn't be an issue.
For the car half i'm using a vehicle specific bracket from proclip/brodit:
The square base allows you to just remove the xway to make it look like you have anything in the car at all. It was designed to just stick right on the dash, but of course me having that bracket there totally defeats the stealth intentions of the square.
My old setup was on a ball joint so i was able to angle it to face me as well as up and down for glare. This setup is completely flat and not adjustable. EDIT: The mount actually has some tilt you just have to tighten the tetrax section first then force the thing to tilt, its actually a small ball joint under the xway bracket.
Due to the cupholder to the right i needed to make the whole thing off center to allow clearance. Even with the fairly off center mounting it has not had any problems with remaining in landscape without sag unless i hit huge bumps. If the button was placed dead center on the case or the phone itself, around under the kickstand, i trust that there should be no issues with unintended rotation.
When the magnets make contact the bracket bends slightly to use pressure to get the friction required to hold it stable. The notch in the base is for seperating the mount from the 1x1 square as it does hold on quite strongly.
Tetrax boasts that the opposite pole arrangement of the magnets plus the steel button restricts the magnetic field to the button and therefore will not interfere with the phone signal. I am currently using a samsung HS3000 for bt media profile and my headunit handles bt phone profile, having the phone mounted has not produced any interference while playing audio and making phone calls so for those worried about that, its not a problem whatsoever.
Overall, if you want a low profile solution, or would like to use different cases, i would recommend the xway wholeheartedly.
Pros:
low profile
secure hold
can rotate all the way around
Cons:
needs a button to be stuck adhesively to the phone/case, will no longer lay flat
must have a 1x1 spot on the dash to stick the square if you want to see it conveniently
the hold is entirely dependent on whether the button and the square have proper adhesion
#1 Awesome car.
#2 I really like the xway.
Sent from my EVO using xda premium
interesting.
i wonder if theres an alternative "button" or screw/bolt that can be used instead that can be fastened stronger.
how about the magnet, its obviously a powerful magnet, does it have any effect on the phones hardware, signal, or sensitive memory/ic/smd chips?
If you're asking about the button that is stuck on to the phone, the first picture has the rest of them on the desk. As for the magnet, It didn't interfere with the BT signal as i was streaming music as well being on a phone call, and the actual signal strength didn't change either.
It looks like you just scrolled to the bottom to read the conclusion
i read it, was just wondering if there was any update or change you could comment on.
By holding it stronger, did you mean to prevent it from rotating at all? The magnet is already pretty strong, but the reason why it moves is because the rubber piece isn't super hard nor is the friction between the rubber and the case the most ideal. Using a glossy plastic case or a tpu case would probably provide a better coefficent of friction, though i'm not sure how well the button would stick to a tpu case, if scuffing the case won't work, i've read in some other device forums that people just superglue the buttons on to the case.
I have an Xway on order and should get it tomorrow.
My plan is to try and get it to work with my Diztronic case. I'll first see if I can keep the button under the case. if that doesn't work, I plan on drilling a hole in the case so the button is exposed but not creating such a 'bump' on the case.
huh. i'd seen those bb platinum cases everywhere, and had no idea they were basically seidio cases. i might get one, just cause i'm getting a little tired of the silicone one i have.
Prefer metal cover instead of PU leather case on the back N3,get to know some aluminum alloy cover yet seems it's a little bit wired with the appearance of an iPhone knock-off,if anybody tried this kind of case and if it will block the signals ?
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greentaloy said:
Prefer metal cover instead of PU leather case on the back N3,get to know some aluminum alloy cover yet seems it's a little bit wired with the appearance of an iPhone knock-off,if anybody tried this kind of case and if it will block the signals ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As of a couple of weeks ago, there were two variants of the "iPhone-type" metal case. One used two microscrews to secure the back cover, the other used a "tab/slot" method.
I purchased one of each for evaluation from eBay. The one using the two screws required me to remove the back cover of the Note 3 to properly fit, yet the overall "thickness" between this case and the other is the same (or so negligible that I couldn't tell). Both cases have two round buttons for the volume, but the microscrew case has an oblong button for the power, whereas the tab/slot case has a round button for the power. Another (important) difference is the microscrew case has a raised lip around the camera lens, so it offers some protection, whereas the tab/slot case is flat, and the camera lens DOES protrude a bit, exposing it to risk of scratching. The oblong button, in my opinion, looks better.
You would think that the tab/slot case would be more susceptible to having the back plate fall out (and the phone with it), but, in actual use, it is quite secure, and I doubt that it would fail (especially since your natural hold keeps the tabs "squeezed" to the frame anyway). However, I suppose if you dropped the case, the back panel could pop out, whereas the microscrew case would not (although, the microscrew case is only secured by screws on ONE side, and the other side is still a tab/slot).
As for actual use, (I'm on USA TMobile), I did NOT notice any signal degradation whatsoever... I got the same number of bars as I always did without the case. I didn't do a scientific signal measurement... just a subjective look at the bars, but really... it worked perfectly fine, and isn't that what is most important?
HOWEVER, it completely negated the NFC (ie, it did NOT work), and it also prohibits QI Inductive Charging. So keep that in mind. Bluetooth and WiFI did not seem to be affected.
Another thing to consider... the openings around the USB charge port are not very big. I had to file the hole larger on the tab/slot case so my USB cable could completely plug into the phone. The microscrew case was large enough, but just barely. I did not try it with the Samsung supplied USB3 cord.
So what's the final verdict? I think the tab/slot case is better, as it did not require me to remove the back cover of the phone, and as I stated above, it was no thicker than the other (maybe the aluminum gauge is thinner?). You also don't need to carry around a screwdriver (and you'll need a VERY small screwdriver tip) if you ever have to take your phone out of the case.
Ultimately, I chose neither one, as the aluminum is quite slippery in your hand. Instead, I went with a Seidio Surface case, The Seidio also has a kickstand, which I needed.
The aluminum cases do look nice, if you like the iPhone look, but after using them for a week, I got tired of the look and went back to the black Seidio. The black color makes the phone look less imposing... the aluminum just makes the phone look bigger. I suppose if you got the black aluminum instead of the silver, it would look thinner. Also, just FYI... I also purchased an aluminum bumper and one of those cheap "brushed aluminum" back covers to see if I could get a "thinner" profile but with the same looks... don't waste your time... it didn't look all that great, and the aftermarket back covers are THICKER than the stock Samsung cover, so it makes the bumper a very tight fit.
For reference, here are listings from eBay that are representative of the cases I purchased (no guarantee that these "listings" will be viewable after a few weeks). If I decide to not be so lazy, I might take some photos of the two cases and post them... but for now:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291001851272
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200974399049
Hope this helps.
Had something similar on my tmobile S4 yes it killed signal in weak areas, ended up throwing it away.
hey guys
well about 7 days ago, after leaving my htc on charge i came back to a buggy lock screen(digitizer) issue! screen seemed like it didn't want to respond
was gutted, after work i decided to twrp recover my system, change kernel etc still didnt work :/ then downloaded a drawing app. to find that a vertical middle section of the screen wasn't responding as my phone is now out of warranty! it was either to ebay to sell it as faulty or to ebay to source parts lol. so i started hunting around and found this can be a common problem, the ribbon cable for the digitzer(which is located near the head phone port on the pcb can come loose! so next step meant only one thing DISASSEMBLE (gulp)
found this handy tutorial on you tube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90og2HFQUHU (sorry if its been linked before)
so with a window sucker and a guitar pick i slowing persuaded the back off the device(its fiddly but not too much of a nightmare!
i located all the screws and after fighting the copper heat shielding its now in parts
my issues now though, which if anyone can guide me would be awesome
firstly, i am in the uk(european model) i am unsure what screen i need, is it s sharp or a sony?
secondly there are 2 antenna adhesive tabs located on the reverse on the screen housing, one i assume is for wifi, other is gsm etc
the antenna tab is near the capacitive buttons, this is slightly damaged! my question, it looks like it has antenna tracks(can i replace with an adhesive without tracks?
i have add some picture(sorry if my terminology is wrong guy)
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hey guys, quick update i ordered the SHARP lcd last night, will attempt to repair it in the next few days
ebay link below(frame and LCD) UK seller: seems a reasonable price at £31.30, worth the gamble i think
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=291107539349&ssPageName=ADME:LC:GB:3160
anyone have any advice about the antenna adhesive issue?
hey guys, quick update screen turned up this morning, will attempt to fit tonight(excited and apprehensive to).
anyway i have purchased some adhesive conductive tape to repair the antenna areas(picture above with arrows). i believe the tape is thin enough to fit correctly, will cut down to match the size needed for gsm antenna and wifi antenna. but it will need folding correctly to allow the ribbons cable to contact correctly.....
i have also purchased some double sided tape to allow me to secure the battery and rear housing. also may use it to hold the volume rocker and power button in place on the chassis
so its fingers and toes crossed lol and a hair dyer at the ready lol
will keep you all updated
new screen fitted all seems good antennas signal is good phew
took about 2 hours all in all....
few tips beware of the power button it will only fit one way!
masking tap to hold the volume rocker and power in place defiantly will make your life easier
few things to note, the ribbon cable connectors on the logic board(s) are very very fiddly to position and lock into place! just take a few minutes on each(make sure its aligned to)
the hot key buttons need to be exactly lined up, there are two dots/guides on the frame(easy to miss), keep all contracts clean from finger grease to.....
i also checked all the contact springing(not sure if that's there tech name lol) i positioned them so they would contact correctly on the back cover when refitted(these are for wifi/gps/nfc). then moving onto removing any old adhesive from the battery and back cover(make note of where the adhesive is along with size, space is tight, fitting new adhesive over old would be too crammed. only fit new adhesive where the old was located now the two halves of the phone need to be fitted back together, this was very straight forward and it clicked into place without any issues then using a hair dyer to get the unit warm, just to allow the adhesive to mold inside
(******have to admit i didn't pre-test the screen, bit of a newbie error******) lucky for me it powered on, no dead pixels
i have ran the following sequence: *#*#3424#*#* in the phones dial-er to test everything(from the screen/WiFi/blue-tooth/sensors etc) just so i could check that its been rebuilt correctly after this i installed CPU z and stability test v2.7(which stresses CPU and GPU under-load) i did this to test temperatures! unit ran for 30 minutes very warm, no problems, allowed it to cool to the touch.
phone looks like new and is currently running perfect i will update this thread if i find any issues
but for anyone wanting to try a screen/digitizer repair its defiantly worth the time and the gamble
Following a post on G+ about getting wireless charging on TS https://plus.google.com/u/0/113668328412632358673/posts/AAQL8jJUdfm, I decided to record my investigations in this area.
I'll map my thoughts and experiences as I go - at the moment, I dont have wireless charging, and the final outcome may be naff, but it might inspire others.
Indeed, I couldnt even get my TS to charge outside of the cradle (documented in the post entitled SUUNTO charger), nonetheless, lets persevere.
Some things needed -
QI wireless charging base = transmitter.
QI wireless foil = receiver. This is can be got on eBay or Amazon, and is the bit that provided power to your battery. There are several sizes (mostly for branded phones) and typically fit inside a phones case, or behind the back if the phone has a removable back. You need to find the smallest available that will deliver 500mA at 5V. The ones Ive obtained so far are too big, and I may end up trimming the non-functional area to get it to fit.
Some clever way of attaching the receiver to the TS or cradle (WIP) - its possible to solder the receiver to either the TS or cradle, but we need to keep it detachable so the USB port can be used.
Some observations -
Because the TS cant lie flat, due to the wrist strap/band holding antennas not flexing horizontally, having the ability to just place the TS on a charging plate may be a non starter. [Maybe we could tolerate the foil flapping open, or being hinged to 180 degrees when charging].
As the TS has an Alu or steel back, thus creating wireless interference or insulation, having the receiver inside the TS may be a non starter.
Before I go down the route of trying to get a receiver behind inside the TS itself, (which would entail opening it up and voiding the warranty ) Im going to look at getting it to work via the charging cradle.
The inside of the cradle offers more space to get a receiver foil in, looks as though it could be done without serious soldering work or permanent damage. However, the only advantage is that it only dispenses with the USB cable - the TS still has to be placed inside the cradle.
The attached pics show the cradle components.
More posts to come later, reserving a few spots below for updates.
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Reserved 1
This picture shows the underside of the USB connector. It appears there are two resistors (the tiny rectangle surface mount components) - I guess these are creating a voltage divider to put +2.8V and +2.1V to the centre two pins. This doesnt seem to materially affect just applying 0v and +5V to the outer two though.
View attachment 2891869
Prototypes
What Im doing isnt really rocket science - Im just plugging in QI receivers to the TS. This successfully chargers the TS wirelessly, but as you can see, is not practical.
Hopefully I can find a way of making this neat, but I fear that, as I mentioned before, because the strap doesnt bend, you cant lay the TS flat.
Giving Up
With some judicious trimming of the receiver foil (after separating the liner), I was able to get it to fit inside the TS cradle.
However, the thickness of the plastic of the cradle base means the charging current wont reach the receiver. I even shaved off some of the extraneous mouldings on the base to try and get the receiver closer. I think if I persevered, and scraped into the base itself, it might work. With the extra moulding removed, I sometime get a hint of a blue charging light on my ZENS charging pad, but it never sticks.
If I could get this working, I would be faced with the last hurdle, which I fear is unsurmountable - the inability of the strap to bend. I would need a charging 'block' rather than a pad. Something that was less than 45mm between the straps. From what I can find, there aren't any; the smallest (without too much searching admittedly) was 90mm.
So this, and the fact that I couldn't find a foil small enough to go inside the TS itself, plus the TS case having the same interference problem as the cradle, means Im going to stop here.
It was a small, fun, diversion, and it would have been nice to get it working, but the retail products, and my engineering/manufacturing skills, don't exist to get us there.
For those of you who don't know I got my start in the mobile arena with the Palm Pre and Pixi. Although others will argue with me, they were quite literally the best phones ever! They did have a few drawbacks, the biggest one being that HP bought Palm and didn't know how to build the brand so they killed it... Recently it was announced that HP was shutting down their server support for all things Palm. This means no more device activations, no App Store, etc. This announcement created some nostalgia for me and I started reminiscing on all the amazing things Palm did that Android still doesn't do right. The biggest was their wireless (inductive) charging. I've tried various different Qi chargers and other methods but they were all unreliable or caused my device to run really hot when it was on the charging pad. I stumbled on a few tutorials that showed how to take the Palm Pre and use it to mod the Android device and create an inductive charger. I've taken their instructions and modified them to work on the S5 and with a Palm Pixi (cheaper parts and easier setup).
Prerequisites (Picture #1)
- Samsung Galaxy S5
- Palm Pixi Back Cover
- Palm Touchstone Charger
- Conductive Copper Tape
- Electrical Tape
- Palm AC/USB Wall Charger (although not required they work best with the Touchstone and are also very well rated as a stand-alone charger)
Negative Side Effects
- I've found is that this mod causes NFC to either not work at all or intermittently. I don't use NFC so it's not a problem for me.
- This creates a slight bulge in the back of the device. I haven't tested it but this could impact the water resistance of the device.
Instructions
1) Take the Palm Pixi back and remove the insert as indicated by the red and yellow arrows. I have found the best success starting in the bottom left corner, as indicated by the yellow arrow (Picture #2).
2) When removing the back be very careful not to lose the four metal discs, indicated by the four arrows. These discs are what hold the device to the Touchstone. There are many ways to keep these in place but for convenience sake I used electrical tape, the yellow arrow shows what they looked like before being covered (Picture #3).
If the discs do happen to fall out I find it useful to place the charging assembly on the Touchstone and then put the discs in the four corners and then tape them down. The Touchstone does all the alignment work for you!
3) Remove the back cover from your S5. Hold it in place on the Touchstone. Take the insert from the Pixi and apply it (black side up) to the S5 cover. Then take a US quarter ($.25 piece) and place it between the bottom edge of the USB space on the S5 and the table (Picture #4). Once you have it aligned tape down the Pixi insert with electrical tape (Picture #5). Take note of the two copper leads sticking out of the back of the insert for the next step.
Take extra care to make sure you don't cover the gray rubber pieces. One, because the electrical tape doesn't stick to them well. Two, because these are what make the device water resistant. As stated, I haven't tested the water resistance with the mod but let's not tempt fate, shall we?
4) Take the other part of your S5 and locate the two charging ports (indicated by the arrows in Picture #6). Run copper tape along the back of your device so that the two copper leads from Picture #5 connect to the port with the same number in Picture #6. Once you have a good connection cover the ports with electrical tape. The copper tape has a tendency to come out of the ports and the electrical tape holds it in.
I found it best to fold the copper tape in half lengthwise (so the adhesive was out on both sides) and then roll the ends of the tape over themselves to make it a little taller. I then pressed the ends down into the charging ports to give them a better connection (Picture #7).
5) Take the back of your S5 and hold it an angle above the back of the phone (as if you were going to put it on) and visually check to make sure that everything lines up as it should (Picture #8). If it does then close the cover and press down to make sure everything clicks in to place.
6) Plug the Touchstone in, place the new Palm S5 on the Touchstone and watch for charging notification.
If you find that you aren't getting a charge check to make sure the copper leads line up with the ends of the copper tape and that the copper tape has a good connection in the charging ports. Then close the case and try again.
Enjoy!
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Pictures 1 - 5: http://www.rwilco12.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=953&pid=1365#pid1365
Pictures 6 - 10: http://www.rwilco12.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=953&pid=1366#pid1366
Love it! I Would love to have an angled QI charger. I would like to point out, that I'm using the samsung charging cover and authentic samsung charging pad and I have zero issues and I'm running your rom and the wireless charging is flawless, however having it flat is an annoyance. Will give this a go if I can get my hands on the pixie block
Followup: The wireless charging cover from samsung adds bulk to the phone so it doesn't sit in the case properly anymore. If i was reading correctly, your method uses the stock battery door that came with the device?.
It's a shame I threw out my Palm Pre backcover and touchstone charger(s) when I got the HTC Evo. I still think it's a shame that WebOS didn't get the respect it deserved. Look what I found on Amazon though. Might have to check it out.
Edit: Read the text about the item, looks like Amazon did proof-read too well as I can "bid" on the item... lol
eeeeeeeeek said:
Love it! I Would love to have an angled QI charger. I would like to point out, that I'm using the samsung charging cover and authentic samsung charging pad and I have zero issues and I'm running your rom and the wireless charging is flawless, however having it flat is an annoyance. Will give this a go if I can get my hands on the pixie block
Followup: The wireless charging cover from samsung adds bulk to the phone so it doesn't sit in the case properly anymore. If i was reading correctly, your method uses the stock battery door that came with the device?.
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Click to collapse
That's one of the biggest perks I forgot about! The slant on the Touchstone is perfect for watching a movie in landscape mode or even just for a quick glance at the screen, no more needing to crane my neck to look down on the device.
But yes, I used the stock battery cover but it is a pretty tight fit with the mod and it does create a slight bulge.
I was originally going to try the Samsung wireless charging but I'm a cheapskate. lol
Ramer84015 said:
It's a shame I threw out my Palm Pre backcover and touchstone charger(s) when I got the HTC Evo. I still think it's a shame that WebOS didn't get the respect it deserved. Look what I found on Amazon though. Might have to check it out.
Edit: Read the text about the item, looks like Amazon did proof-read too well as I can "bid" on the item... lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow... I tried to read it and I don't even have a clue what it is!
I agree with you on every front, WebOS deserved a much better fate than winding up as the backbone for an LG TV. Good news is that you can still get Pre and Pixi back covers for dirt cheap on Amazon. I just bought two more Touchstones for $11.00 so they aren't that bad either.
S5 Wireless
On the back of the s5 (the actual back without the cover), you have the wireless slots. Wich one of those slots are negative and which are positive?
kushal100 said:
On the back of the s5 (the actual back without the cover), you have the wireless slots. Wich one of those slots are negative and which are positive?
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Click to collapse
I'm going by memory since I no longer have the phone but I'm 99% positive that the bottom one was.
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