Why I need this mod?
- Because unit use microphone/s for android and Bt calls, which are connected together. That make the mic very weak and sound bad, just like you connect two speaker on one speaker output. So if we separate fro each input other mic then everything is fix
How to do Mic separation?
1 - First you need external Mic (any good mic is ok), and an external mic jack.
2 - Cut pin 4 instead of remove c32 (much easier and easiest to fix if something goes wrong.)
3 - Use shielded cable/s (I use fat speakers cables and shielded enough) and solder pin4 + to the back of the module and pin5 - to the front of the module (I was lazy enough and don't want to remove board that why). You can solder both of them to the back and everything will be ok.
4 - No needed any other mod as internal mic is used only by android and its sound is good enough now.
Now BT calls are perfect. I use my old pioneer microphone.
My other work
1. Radio fix http://forum.xda-developers.com/and...od-radio-frequencies-filter-fix-kgl4-t3279439
2. Red apps. http://forum.xda-developers.com/and...ent/mod-red-music-movie-dvd-bt-radio-t3278054
And PICTURES ofcourse
hadjistyllis said:
Why I need this mod?
- Because unit use microphone/s for android and Bt calls, which are connected together. That make the mic very weak and sound bad, just like you connect two speaker on one speaker output. So if we separate fro each input other mic then everything is fix
How to do Mic separation?
1 - First you need external Mic (any good mic is ok), and an external mic jack.
2 - Cut pin 4 instead of remove c32 (much easier and easiest to fix if something goes wrong.)
3 - Use shielded cable/s (I use fat speakers cables and shielded enough) and solder pin4 + to the back of the module and pin5 - to the front of the module (I was lazy enough and don't want to remove board that why). You can solder both of them to the back and everything will be ok.
4 - No needed any other mod as internal mic is used only by android and its sound is good enough now.
Now BT calls are perfect. I use my old pioneer microphone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please can you tell me how to exactly connect mine jack? I have two wires from jack and I need to know to which pins or points I have to connect them.
Thank you
ReVolte11 said:
Please can you tell me how to exactly connect mine jack? I have two wires from jack and I need to know to which pins or points I have to connect them.
Thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Solder positive (+) to pin4 and negative (-) to pin5 (positive is the top of jack).
But FIRST cut pin4 to separate bt card from mainboard.
hadjistyllis said:
Solder positive (+) to pin4 and negative (-) to pin5 (positive is the top of jack).
But FIRST cut pin4 to separate bt card from mainboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did cut c102 (others have it as C32) Is that a problem? Because the lines of connections of pin 4 and 5 goes thorough it.
ReVolte11 said:
I did cut c102 (others have it as C32) Is that a problem? Because the lines of connections of pin 4 and 5 goes thorough it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only need to cut pin4 line. Post some screenshot and your device model.
Yousolder and mic is not working?
hadjistyllis said:
Only need to cut pin4 line. Post some screenshot and your device model.
Yousolder and mic is not working?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am going to reserve some time for another fixing and then I will post my photos. And yes, when I use BT call I can hear crappy sound and some voice from FRONT mic. Now I am not sure if the external ever worked because I didn´t try from what mic I get sound. Do you know how exactly is working front mic and his affection of BT call?
Thank you!
ReVolte11 said:
I am going to reserve some time for another fixing and then I will post my photos. And yes, when I use BT call I can hear crappy sound and some voice from FRONT mic. Now I am not sure if the external ever worked because I didn´t try from what mic I get sound. Do you know how exactly is working front mic and his affection of BT call?
Thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally cutting the pin disconnect entirely front mic from bt card (check if the pin you cut writes mic+ on bt card from front or back). Also try using other external mic and see if it works. Also check voltage between two pins and report.
Do you have kgl or kld or .......?
I have KYD version and its slightly different than yours. I will try to do some photos to get you now how it looks inside.
Hi,
so I made some pictures and improvements in my unit. I left my microphone connected in the same way I soldered it, but I shielded the jack wire for it whole length in radio. Now i have no static noises, but my microphone is still weak a I need to be loud to be heard. So I am going to buy another microphone with better gain.
http://postimg.org/image/qsxoivkqp/
http://postimg.org/image/jhisfwkl1/
http://postimg.org/image/5921hcwbh/
ReVolte11 said:
Hi,
so I made some pictures and improvements in my unit. I left my microphone connected in the same way I soldered it, but I shielded the jack wire for it whole length in radio. Now i have no static noises, but my microphone is still weak a I need to be loud to be heard. So I am going to buy another microphone with better gain.
http://postimg.org/image/qsxoivkqp/
http://postimg.org/image/jhisfwkl1/
http://postimg.org/image/5921hcwbh/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Also check your cable resistance just to be sure is ok.
Also cable must be as far possible from board.
Are you using stereo or mono jack?
I did tested my microphone in PC a it was all the same.
I have the cable shielded so no interference is there and I still using original microphone output so its mono I think.
And front mic is now not capturing my voice in BT call.
Can you add an idiots guide how to exactly do that mod?
I really want to do it, but afraid to cause more damage, since I have no electrical skills.
Huge thanks!
amir77a said:
Can you add an idiots guide how to exactly do that mod?
I really want to do it, but afraid to cause more damage, since I have no electrical skills.
Huge thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you never use solder iron its better to give it to a proffessional to do this.
You first have to disassemble the upper part of radio and take off cd-rom. Then bt card is like pictures. You cut mic+ pin and solder you mic + on it.
If you give it to a pro and show him the pictures he can to it without any problem.
hadjistyllis said:
If you never use solder iron its better to give it to a proffessional to do this.
You first have to disassemble the upper part of radio and take off cd-rom. Then bt card is like pictures. You cut mic+ pin and solder you mic + on it.
If you give it to a pro and show him the pictures he can to it without any problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess I have to do that.
That is so annoying. The handsfree is currently almost unusable.
@hadjistyllis
Thank u a lot!
I have the Erisin 2402GE with KGL1 MCU for my Volkswagen Golf 5. I had the same problem with the silent mic for bluetooth calls.
So i tried your mod. I dared and sweated a lot, because everything is so small inside the logicboard. I wanted to go save and connected the mic-cable first, because my BT-Modul even looked different inside the PCB.
And for testing i heard the mic - Great!
So i dared and sweated again and cutted the pin4 with a scissor ... After putting everything inside again and testing, my mic works for BT-Calls. And now the quality of the mic is great and loud.
Thank you so much, after the powered usb-hub and the mic-mod now my erisin is great optimised for everything.
There is no way tu use the minijack connector that aready comes installed in the back of the radio?
I have a completely different unit but am about to cut pin 4. The one question I have is do you solder mic+ to pin 4 on Bluetooth module or main board as from your picture it looks like you have soldered to pin 4 on main board. Is this correct?
vomesk said:
There is no way tu use the minijack connector that aready comes installed in the back of the radio?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you really want to take off mainboard and disolder connection then do it. Its a little bit risky.
Goose247 said:
I have a completely different unit but am about to cut pin 4. The one question I have is do you solder mic+ to pin 4 on Bluetooth module or main board as from your picture it looks like you have soldered to pin 4 on main board. Is this correct?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On bluetooth card not mainboard
Related
whether I am "search" disabled or there is no info about audio 2.5 jack pin outs.
will somebody give a link or provide connection diagram for mic, answer/mute button and audio outputs?
my aim is to make my own cable to connect the pda to car stereo to listen mp3s and also place a remote mic and switch somewhere in the car.
its done!
thanks a lot to whom gave me info about this topic. Here is what I have done today;
I bought an after market 2,5mm stereo headphones with mic and switch. it was 5 YTL equvalent around $3,5. I had the chance to try it with my qtek9100, but there was very poor sound level and quality, I didnt even try the mic. Actually I bought it just to get one 2.5mm 4 conductor jack.
I tried to make a drawing how the connections were, marked as "before". It is so wierd wiring that I have no idea which kind of device uses this kind of connection.
After modification, as you will see, instead of soldering the existing ear pieces, I soldered a female 3,5mm jack, so that I can connect whether a stereo headphones to use it as hands free or a casette adapter to use with car stereo and listen to mp3s(which in this case, when I receive or make a call, it will mute the music and give other sides voice to car speakers). Ive tested both possibilities and it works quite fine.
I hope this helps to ones that are willing to make this kind of adapter themselves.
Re: its done!
Thank U for contribution!
canstb said:
Ive tested both possibilities and it works quite fine.
I hope this helps to ones that are willing to make this kind of adapter themselves.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I want to give a more precise definition to jack pinouts.
AFAIK pin 4 - left channel, 3 - right. So U have reversed stereo sound or wrong picture female connector.
Specific to KGL
I've had the KGL variant for a couple of weeks. Since I've had my share of Chinese Android devices of all sorts - I kind of knew what to expect in terms of software.. so I wasn't really disappointed BUT... the hands free in this unit was simply unusable... After getting my wife totally upset and my friends pissed at me for calling them using the unit I knew something had to be done.
So I took it apart.
Being that I'm skilled in electronics and pretty much hands-on, I figured out the problem pretty fast. Or should I say "problems" in plural?
Let me start by saying that if you have the KGL variant and suffer from extreme noise bleeding into the mic - there is no software workaround. You either need to send it back and get something else or open and modify it like I did.
Second - the hardware in this thing is of such low quality, and the design is so bad, it makes me cry. I estimate the production cost of this unit is under $50. Pretty pretty low... even for Chinese stuff.
So.. what's the story with the mic noise, you ask? very simple. The mic signal from the front panel is routed unshielded from a small PCB attached to the panel, via 3 PCBs and 2 ribbon cables, for over 15" until it arrives at the Bluetooth module MIC input. On the way, it picks up so much electrical noise and interference it's almost a miracle that you hear anything but static noise. When an external mic is plugged it, the front panel mic is NOT disconnected. Both are electrically connected in parallel which is unheard of (very bad practice). The Bluetooth module is thus responsible for MIC bias and preamp. The BT module is of unknown source and it's hard to tell what quality to expect there (not much, as we all know). Noise cancellation? echo cancellation? forget it!
Now - we know android needs an audio input - we can have some voice activation on the unit, right? so how is it done? simple! the signal from the BT mic input line is run back to the front panel and into a Wolfson CODEC. Just like that... so that the Android audio in would also suffer from the above issues.
This also explains the exact nature of the unit's BT implementation - the handsfree is not done by the Android - it's completely handled by the BT module. BT module has MIC in, AUDIO out (that goes to the BD37534 audio mixer chip) and RS232 control signals that communicate with the Android BT application for User Interface (probably via AT commands).
When you run an Android app that uses audio input - it comes from the Wolfson CODEC but it's essentialy the same lousy MIC signal that the BT also gets.
BUT!!!
I've made some modifications and lo and behold - I can make a good quality phone conversation now! and the google apps have somewhat better performance too... but it did require me to completely mess up the internal wiring and obviously void the priceless warranty
So after I've figured it out - I decided I needed to do the following:
- Give up the option to work with two mics at the same time and opt for the external mic only for voice calls
- Cut and bypass the original traces since they pick up so much noise
- Add a separate input jack for the external microphone since it was not feasible to cut the lines going into the original one
I started by installing the extra jack on the rear panel. Then I removed a jumper 0ohm resistor at the MIC input to the BT module, disconnecting the MIC input from the circuit. I ran a piece of shielded wire from the new jack to the MIC input signal pin ON the BT board. That completed the hands-free modification.
In order for the Android to have some audio input, I then moved to the front panel, and first installed a 0Ohm jumper that was missing by the WM8731 CODEC. This resistor connects the MIC BIAS pin to the MIC input - it is required when using an electret microphone. I then made a cut in the trace from the front panel microphone to the small PCB connector, and ran a piece of shielded wire from the mic terminals to the WM8731 MIC input.
Now the front mic is only for Android (voice commands etc) and the external mic serves hands free.. I could have probably added some smarter electronics but I don't think it would have added anything to the usage experience.
Let me know if anyone is interested in some pictures I've taken and I will upload.
Crappy piece of equipment but at least now it works.
All the best,
Nir
...
Moderation note form dark alex:
these are pictures which belong to dnts' tutorial and research
harlequin69 said:
Great work and thank you for sharing. I can follow most of what you did there except for adding the jumper to the CODEC due to electret mic use, do you have any pics of this? also why did you choose to use both mics in the end? would it not be better to use the external mic for both BT and android?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Regarding external mic for both BT and Android - here is the catch - you need to add a buffer (amplifier circuit) to the mic signal before sending it to two destinations (BT and CODEC) otherwise you will get that awful noise back. The microphones have a high output impedance which makes them prone to electrical noise. Even if you run them using shielded wire to two locations - you will be picking up noise via the ground signal due to the high impedance.
So to keep things simple (for now) I opted for separate mics, with the higher quality one for calls.
As for the required jumper, I attached a pic. The red circle around the empty pads shows where you need to put a short. The green line shows where you would connect the internal mic. Either pad works (they are shorted on the PCB).
Nir
Specific for KGL
From the top of my head.. sorry for that.. Please use pics in my previous posts.
1. Remove unit. Remove screws holding front panel to the chassis (this varies from one car model to another - mine is KIA Sportage).
2. Carefully lay down front panel. Take notice of the two ribbon cables and don't pull them
3. Remove chassis top cover (2 side screws and one screw on the back).
4. Remove optical drive - 4 screws hold it in place. Carefully disconnect ribbon cable.
5. Install 3.5mm mono jack on the rear panel - 2 holes are available for that (those reserved for DTV antenna). Wire a piece of shielded conductor to the jack, shield going to the part touching the chassis (sleeve) and internal conductor going to the "tip" contact.
6. Locate BT module. It will be at the right side of the chassis (eyeing from front), close to the front end of the PCB.
7. Near the BT module, on the main PCB, locate the component marked "C32". It should be marked "0". Remove it. This is a jumper connecting the BT MIC input to the microphones.
8. Connect the other end of the shielded conductor to the BT module to the pin labeled "MIC+". Do if from the back size of the module. Secure the shielded wire in several places so it doesn't loose up over time.
At this point, the external mic will be the only source for BT audio in. It should (obviously) connected to the new jack we installed.
9. Locate the PCB holding the microphone to the front panel. Locate the PCB trace from the lower microphone terminal (the other terminal is connected to the ground plane of the PCB). make a cut to that trace.
10. Prepare another shielded conductor. connect shied to the mic terminal that is grounded (top one) and the internal conductor to the terminal connected to the trace we just cut. (please see picture titled "front mic").
11. Locate WM8731 CODEC chip. Identify missing "R45" pads (only vacant pads near the WM8731 chip). Make a jumper using some solder and a piece of wire. This calls for delicate soldering.
12. Connect other end of mic conductor to the pad of R42 and R45 further away from WM8731 (please see picture titled "CODEC connection")
13. Put everything back together - start with ribbon for the optical drive, 4 screws for the drive, top cover of chassis and front panel. Make sure, before securing the front panel, that the two ribbon cables are well connected and have not moved or shifted inside their connectors.
14. Cross fingers and connect back to power.
You're done.
Nir
Relax, don't do it!
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Specific for JY
tomc99 said:
I did find a capacitor linking the BT module on my JY unit, but removing it didn't give me the results I needed, so that's when I moved to cutting the leg on the BT module.
I seem to get some bias at the microphone socket - maybe a little low, from memory around 1.7 volts, but no audio whatsoever.
A little bit of a mystery to me is that after cutting the leg on the module the internal mic is now virtually clear of all buzzing that was evident beforehand.
I may spend a few hours this weekend and set it up on my bench power supply and have a better play with it.
Tom.
Sent from my GT-N5100 using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a G2110 model( which is a Joyous JY) that suffered with bad buzzing and echoing when using hands free. In stock form testing internal MIC with sound recorder there was no issue. Recording was clear. When I made hand-free call buzzing and reverb sound occurred. I read over and over about the external mic modification and decided to try it. Opened up HU and located C32 which was actually located toward the front center of the unit. I removed it and tested and same issues occurred. I then reconnect C32 as it was apparent that this was not the correct one on this board. I then took advise of previous posts that the cap should be located somewhere near the Bluetooth module so did continuity checks from the + of internal MIC to the caps near the Bluetooth module. I found C102(located seemed to connect to internal MIC on one side and the Bluetooth Mic + on the other. I decided to remove that and test. After removal internal MIC still functioned but hands-free was dead. I am assuming that this was the correct cap that needed to be removed. I did not do anything to the legs of the actual module. I did add an external jack to the backside of the module per the previous posts on how to add external MIC. After I completed the task I tested and the two appear to be separated and the hand-free external seems to function. I still get a little reverb noise but nothing like it was. I am not an electrical guru so I'm not sure if what I did is correct but it seems to have helped somewhat. I took some pics.
Ok...I need to do this as got that horrible Mike thing going with Bluetooth..
I still need to get my head around the best way to do it..
Best way is going to have to print this thread and work out a plan of attack..
At the moment I have not plugged in the mike at back but been using the front Mike for Bluetooth calls..and of course no one can hear me..
As for Bluetooth coming out to speaks..that all works fine..
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
dgcruzing said:
Ok...I need to do this as got that horrible Mike thing going with Bluetooth..
I still need to get my head around the best way to do it..
Best way is going to have to print this thread and work out a plan of attack..
At the moment I have not plugged in the mike at back but been using the front Mike for Bluetooth calls..and of course no one can hear me..
As for Bluetooth coming out to speaks..that all works fine..
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm with you pal. This is pretty confusing, especially when you take into account the different models of the head units. I want to improve my mic, but I don't want to mess up and make it worse.
If anyone with a joying unit wants to put together an idiots guide to this mod, I would send a huge thank you your way. [emoji106]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
tdopko said:
Specific for JY
I have a G2110 model( which is a Joyous JY) that suffered with bad buzzing and echoing when using hands free. In stock form testing internal MIC with sound recorder there was no issue. Recording was clear. When I made hand-free call buzzing and reverb sound occurred. I read over and over about the external mic modification and decided to try it. Opened up HU and located C32 which was actually located toward the front center of the unit. I removed it and tested and same issues occurred. I then reconnect C32 as it was apparent that this was not the correct one on this board. I then took advise of previous posts that the cap should be located somewhere near the Bluetooth module so did continuity checks from the + of internal MIC to the caps near the Bluetooth module. I found C102(located seemed to connect to internal MIC on one side and the Bluetooth Mic + on the other. I decided to remove that and test. After removal internal MIC still functioned but hands-free was dead. I am assuming that this was the correct cap that needed to be removed. I did not do anything to the legs of the actual module. I did add an external jack to the backside of the module per the previous posts on how to add external MIC. After I completed the task I tested and the two appear to be separated and the hand-free external seems to function. I still get a little reverb noise but nothing like it was. I am not an electrical guru so I'm not sure if what I did is correct but it seems to have helped somewhat. I took some pics.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I did my soldering too. I found that my microphone is on pin connection infront of BT module and it is connected through c102 jumper. So i cut that microphone and solder it on back of BT module on mic+ and mic-. Problem is that when I call the internal mic is on and external is not working or is off. I am not sure if the external mic was ever on and I did talk thorough internal mic. Can you just tell me what did you solder to what?
Thank you
dsa8310 said:
I have followed the microphone recipe in post #3964, and here is my experience:
Separation between the Android internal mic and the hands-free external mic is definitely a great solution. With the external mic connected directly to the BT module (and capacitor C32 removed) people tell me that they cannot say that I am using hands-free - the call quality has become that good.
Connecting the internal mic directly to the CODEC chip - not a good idea, unless you have proper tools and you know what you are doing. In fact, Skype and Google Search, both work beautifully with no need for any further change.
Beware, the image in post #3971 , detailing where to connect the mic IS WRONG! The mic should be connected where the strap between the two empty pads is made (in order to have the mic powered with chip's bias voltage). Only the pad at the left end of the green line is OK for mic connection.
I had to redo the soldering, after looking up the chip's pin-out, and this was the end of my empty pads... (overheating with improper tools). With no bias voltage, I could no longer connect the mic directly.
And since I had already cut the mic trace on board, I couldn't reconnect my internal mic, other than using a shielded wire which went outside the unit and into the available external mic socket. Thanks Huifei for your thoughtful design!
And now, my internal mic, even wired through the external mic socket, works perfectly for Android. I got lucky...
So, my advice, stick to the first part of the recipe, it's a must for phone quality hands-free calls, but relax, don't do it - the second part calls for trouble and seems unnecessary, really.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you all for the very useful information that you give us every day,
I am owner of a KLD. Specifically a Witson A7047.
I ask you please to be able to summarize in detail the operations to be done in order to make the modification of the microphone.
As I understand, I should find the capacitor C32 and remove it.
I miss, however, the passage for connecting external microphone.
Excuse my trivial question, but understand little of electronics and I have to carry the equipment by the technician. Obviously I will have to explain what to do.
Thanks for the answer
hello, i'm also using a joying head unit and i have the same problems with my mic. Until now i only used the unit internal mic and the external one is not even connected. Has any of you managed to do any mod (not requiring too much of electronics skills since i dont have any)
Aender84 said:
hello, i'm also using a joying head unit and i have the same problems with my mic. Until now i only used the unit internal mic and the external one is not even connected. Has any of you managed to do any mod (not requiring too much of electronics skills since i dont have any)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The external mic is better than the internal, but it is still not great. It makes a lot of electrical noise on the other end if the phone call. There are some instructions for mic mod here, but I have also read that the joying units are a little different than those details here. I haven't tried it yet, so I can't help any more than that.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
But is there any way to still use the car existing mic? My car already had a stock Bluetooth installed so I also heve the mic for it
Aender84 said:
But is there any way to still use the car existing mic? My car already had a stock Bluetooth installed so I also heve the mic for it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not that I am aware of. It would have to be routed through the Android unit somehow. Otherwise it wouldn't switch automatically when you receive a call. That is if it can even be done at all. I suspect that the Bluetooth module was in the stock radio unit.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I believe is a matter of wiring. The Bluetooth unit was not embedded in the original headunit, so probably there is a way to do it.
Aender84 said:
I believe is a matter of wiring. The Bluetooth unit was not embedded in the original headunit, so probably there is a way to do it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you sure about that? Maybe yours is different than mine. I have the jbl, non-nav unit. I can't access anything to do with the Bluetooth now that I've removed the head unit.
If you're only saying that he can wire the original microphone into the Android unit, that may be possible. It's the same as wiring any external microphone I guess.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have not possibility to hardware mod.
No software mod can help me?if i buy a bt mic?or bt handfree kit?
Inviato dal mio SM-G920F utilizzando Tapatalk
The title says it all, I have an Eonon G2110F based on a RK3188 chip and the call quality of the supplied microphone is not very good and the cord is too long (approx 1 metre).
Can anyone recommend an aftermarket better quality microphone with approximately 2 metres of cord for installation?
Thanks!
I just bought a generic cheap one off ebay. Maybe I got lucky but my call quality is great and no hardware mod carried out. I've a different unit which way have slightly different internals. You might not be so lucky
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
gk66 said:
I just bought a generic cheap one off ebay. Maybe I got lucky but my call quality is great and no hardware mod carried out. I've a different unit which way have slightly different internals. You might not be so lucky
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What unit do you have and why did you buy a different mic?
Dave
It's badged an erisin. The mcu is KGL v2.55
With the internal mic I sounded far away. I got an external to make me sound closer. I've had no complaints about call quality since
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Ok thanks man. I did some more work and finally got my sound quality nearly perfect. Great pickup range also.
Dave
gk66 said:
I just bought a generic cheap one off ebay. Maybe I got lucky but my call quality is great and no hardware mod carried out. I've a different unit which way have slightly different internals. You might not be so lucky
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
which microphone you bought specifically?
TT_Vert said:
Ok thanks man. I did some more work and finally got my sound quality nearly perfect. Great pickup range also.
Dave
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Dave, what work did you do and what mic did you get for your good quality audio?
Ended up modifying the mic from my old kenwood unit and unsoldering the internal mic.
Dave
TT_Vert said:
Ended up modifying the mic from my old kenwood unit and unsoldering the internal mic.
Dave
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The supplied mic is unlikely to be the reason for audio quality due to a design flaw in these mtcb and mtcd units.
This post highlights the design error in these head units. The error is that the external mic is in parallel with the internal - this shouldn't work at all! If using an external mic, disconnect the internal.
See http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=3246277
Bringing back this thread... I finally got around to removing the internal microphone from this unit (held off for fear of doing more damage than good!) by cutting the wired behind the touchscreen. Problem is I now have no microphone at all!! I tried plugging in a different microphone to the port on the rear of the unit and still no sound. I am running Malaysk rom, I wonder if there is a setting to 'switch' from internal microphone to external microphone?
Alternatively does anyone know if I can pair my phone to the hu for media streaming only, phone off (set in Bluetooth options of phone) and simultaneously pair it to a Bluetooth hands-free kit for phone audio only, media off (in phone Bluetooth settings)?
Failing that I will need to set it up as speakerphone with a phone cradle as this is the wife's car and she will not be happy with my tinkering!!
Any suggestions?!
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
same situation here, but for now i left the internal mic soldered and functional... the rear jack has a mic connected but it does not work...
i think that there are a couple of tests to be made:
1. 7floor sound mod- maybe this has something to do with this.... different input for rear/external mic... i already sent a PM to 7floor
2. a "hidden" switch for enabling the external mic, and disable the internal one ... i already send a PM to malay
3. normally the switch should be made when connecting the mic jack ... not working for me either... maybe the wire loom is not soldered properly ?-to investigate
it would be nice if someone has a hint or an advice
glenb83 said:
Bringing back this thread... I finally got around to removing the internal microphone from this unit (held off for fear of doing more damage than good!) by cutting the wired behind the touchscreen. Problem is I now have no microphone at all!! I tried plugging in a different microphone to the port on the rear of the unit and still no sound. I am running Malaysk rom, I wonder if there is a setting to 'switch' from internal microphone to external microphone?
Alternatively does anyone know if I can pair my phone to the hu for media streaming only, phone off (set in Bluetooth options of phone) and simultaneously pair it to a Bluetooth hands-free kit for phone audio only, media off (in phone Bluetooth settings)?
Failing that I will need to set it up as speakerphone with a phone cradle as this is the wife's car and she will not be happy with my tinkering!!
Any suggestions?!
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why don't you just solder another external connector to the wires that was connected to the internal mic.
I've done that and it works both for phone calls and Google.
halloj said:
Why don't you just solder another external connector to the wires that was connected to the internal mic.
I've done that and it works both for phone calls and Google.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you buy an external connector with the black and red wires already exposed to do that or do I modify a standard mic extension and cut the male end to expose the cables?
oddyutza said:
same situation here, but for now i left the internal mic soldered and functional... the rear jack has a mic connected but it does not work...
i think that there are a couple of tests to be made:
1. 7floor sound mod- maybe this has something to do with this.... different input for rear/external mic... i already sent a PM to 7floor
2. a "hidden" switch for enabling the external mic, and disable the internal one ... i already send a PM to malay
3. normally the switch should be made when connecting the mic jack ... not working for me either... maybe the wire loom is not soldered properly ?-to investigate
it would be nice if someone has a hint or an advice
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please keep this thread updated with any progress you make
glenb83 said:
or do I modify a standard mic extension and cut the male end to expose the cables?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. Should be a mono connector.
halloj said:
Yes. Should be a mono connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm going to try and solder a mic extension cable directly behind the touchscreen this weekend, just wanted to check if you knew whether the microphone in these units was a standard 3.5mm or a smaller 2.5mm? I'm pretty sure it's 3.5mm but wanted to be sure before I bought it without pulling the dash apart again.
Thanks for all your help!
Mine is 3.5, normal size so to speak
glenb83 said:
I'm going to try and solder a mic extension cable directly behind the touchscreen this weekend, just wanted to check if you knew whether the microphone in these units was a standard 3.5mm or a smaller 2.5mm? I'm pretty sure it's 3.5mm but wanted to be sure before I bought it without pulling the dash apart again.
Thanks for all your help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
3.5 for sure.
glenb83 said:
Please keep this thread updated with any progress you make
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
any updates?
halloj said:
3.5 for sure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ordered the mic extension and finally getting around to installing it. Only query is that the tiny mic that came with the unit had 2 fine wires, a red and a black/positive negative. After cutting the male end of the extension cable though, there are 3x wires - red, copper, green. Any idea which go where, and will it matter that only 2 wires are used?
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
I installed my headunit recently and noticed the crappy internal mic issues that is so common with our devices. My external mic wasn't going to be long enough to reach the stereo, so I installed a short extension cable.
What I found was:
Bad - Internal Mic, no external mic connected
Bad - External mic connected
GOOD! - Internal Mic with just the external mic extension connected
What a great relief! In my car, I have the GPS antenna sitting on top of the headunit (was too lazy to run the cable and mount "properly") and it works great. Now I also am using the internal Mic with excellent sound quality with just a small extension installed and nothing connected. I was not expecting such an easy time.
I still have the problem with bad A2DP sound quality. I haven't investigated this yet. I also have a weird problem where turning the volume know to the left will sometimes start making the sound louder. Luckily it fixes itself after a reboot and I can also volume down with the steering wheel controls.
Interesting, thanks for the heads up. I wonder why this is?
ahfunaki said:
Interesting, thanks for the heads up. I wonder why this is?
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What is 'external mic extension'? Please provide some pics. Very interesting find.
pa.ko said:
What is 'external mic extension'? Please provide some pics. Very interesting find.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It sounds to me like it is just a 3.5mm extension cord. Like this: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-...458368888&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+extension+mic
Yes, correct. It is just a simple 3.5mm extension cord. I have no idea why it helps, but my system is good enough with it that I see no reason to do the mic hardware hack.
This is what I did except i disassembled, unsoldered the old mic from the PCB and soldered in an extension w/ an 1/8 stereo female bulkhead connection at the back of the unit so i can plug in any mic I want to. Tested w/ my wife and she said it was crystal clear. Prior to that quality was HORRIBLE, not even usable actually.
Dave
Hi, I'd like to try this to see if it will help my unit. does the length of the extension matter? what was the length you used?
Thanks for the help
Have you use a mono or a stereo mic extension?
MFG
Wolverine_DH
TT_Vert said:
This is what I did except i disassembled, unsoldered the old mic from the PCB and soldered in an extension w/ an 1/8 stereo female bulkhead connection at the back of the unit so i can plug in any mic I want to. Tested w/ my wife and she said it was crystal clear. Prior to that quality was HORRIBLE, not even usable actually.
Dave
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Click to collapse
Did this too. 100% difference! Wow, that is like, the exact wording I was going to use too...down to the "crystal clear" hahaha!
natalic said:
Did this too. 100% difference! Wow, that is like, the exact wording I was going to use too...down to the "crystal clear" hahaha!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Guys, I wanted to test the "trick" with the extension but you write now what I did not understood.
Which mic did you unsolder ?
The connector for the external mic or which one ?
Thanks
unsolder the mic that is internal at the front of the unit. With that though I'd try that extension and see if it helps you. If it does you don't need to unsolder but I really don't see how that could possibly help.
Dave
TT_Vert said:
unsolder the mic that is internal at the front of the unit. With that though I'd try that extension and see if it helps you. If it does you don't need to unsolder but I really don't see how that could possibly help.
Dave
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Click to collapse
I was so convinced that this was a complete waste of time, I mean really, It makes no sense that an extension cable works, no sense at all.
*BUT*
Shockingly this did make a difference. Not a huge difference, but enough to make the unit usable. I'd say the quality was improved from 0/10, to 4/10. Its still quite annoying for those people unlucky enough to talk to me when I'm in my car, but at least they can actually make out what I'm saying now. I'd love to understand how this could possibly make any difference...
I used a 6ft stereo extension (its what I had lying around). I am now wondering if the position of this cable (wrapped up, or looped or something makes any difference - it must be acting in some way to bleed off excess electrical interference or something.... or something...
Anyways, just thought I'd share my experience.
Interesting, can't argue with results i suppose. I would still unsolder front mic, i bet you'll be impressed w/ the result.
Dave
Hi there,
I tested it with my RK3188 headunit (a Joying JY-UQ130) and I does'nt work. This only seems to disconnect internal mic. Maybe this unit has a hardware fix.
Lwysiwyg said:
Hi there,
I tested it with my RK3188 headunit (a Joying JY-UQ130) and I does'nt work. This only seems to disconnect internal mic. Maybe this unit has a hardware fix.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems that it was a software issue. This morning, internal mic is OK ! I will tell you if something goes wrong again with this fix. Thanks !
Hi I would like to try this simple fix but was curious as to what type of 3.5mm extension was needed? 2 pin 3 or 4 pin, shielded etc thanks
Would be cool if everybody could list the specs of the extension he uses!?
Gesendet von meinem GT-N7100 mit Tapatalk
This would add capacitance to the microphone circuit. To some degree, it may act as a high pass filter.
is this like a very primitive way to accomplish what a ground loop isolator does?
dieterlumpen said:
Would be cool if everybody could list the specs of the extension he uses!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried the solution on my Head Unit (RK3188 KGL) and it worked !! The voice quality is improved from 0/10 to 7/10.
Here is what I purchased:
- 3.5mm jack Stereo extension cable (Male-Female) - the cheapest one ($1), without any shield.
- External Mono microphone, with 3 meters of cable - the cheapest one ($1)
Here is what I did:
1. I unsoldered the internal microphone at the front of the head unit. The mic had two wires, which were soldered to Positive and Ground.
2. I cut the 3.5mm Jack Stereo extension cable, to keep the Female-end and ~30cm of cable - enough to place the socket at the back of the head unit. The cable had 3 wires: white, red and yellow:
- the white wire corresponds to the TIP of a jack connector
- the red wire corresponds to the RING of a jack connector
- the yellow wire corresponds to the SLEEVE of a jack connector
3. I soldered the extension cable where the internal microphone was soldered:
- yellow wire (SLEEVE) to Ground.
- white wire (TIP) to Positive.
4. I connected the external microphone to the Jack extension I just soldered.
Et voila!
So i checked dozens times if the jack socket is ok and it is, also the motherboard pads looks ok, but i can't make any headphones to work anyway.
They don't get detected, ones or twice they worked for 1 second, and then it's only rugg noise.
no idea anymore. No any garbage inside. Everything look clean and cool.
I also flashed and rooted it with 2 different roms. Didn't help.
Pls help.
Fox_Murderer said:
So i checked dozens times if the jack socket is ok and it is, also the motherboard pads looks ok, but i can't make any headphones to work anyway.
They don't get detected, ones or twice they worked for 1 second, and then it's only rugg noise.
no idea anymore. No any garbage inside. Everything look clean and cool.
I also flashed and rooted it with 2 different roms. Didn't help.
Pls help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hardware issue, you must need a technician
Could the IC get wrecked? It should not cause the speaker works normal. I can hear all voices and music.
Fox_Murderer said:
Could the IC get wrecked? It should not cause the speaker works normal. I can hear all voices and music.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe the headphone jack sensor got damaged. Does the headphone icon appear on the status bar when plugged? If not, then this is likely the issue.
Where is jack sensor?? How does it looks like?
Fox_Murderer said:
Where is jack sensor?? How does it looks like?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The jack it's attached to the upper part of the board. You'll have to open the phone. And it is covered in plastic. If it's damaged then you'll probably have to replace it.
With EdwinMoqs and Artas' roms volume output can be high enough to cause clipping, which is often accompanied by false headset removal event. You have to carefully adjust the maximum safe volume level, but in the end it's still louder than stock rom which is crippled by EU and probably US regulations.
I can adjust volume via headset button, with the Headset Button Controller app. Setting max volume to 80-90% should do. The clipping protection in poweramp wasn't effective, it did the job with Artas' rom.
Problem can also be caused by a switch, which should be under one of the contacts in the jack, and can be reached with a needle(i never checked how it looks inside the jack). Also the plug should fit in to the hilt. Something might block the plug, the spindle with the contacts be too short. If you get the plug fully in and still see the spindle you're safe.
Socket looks like connecting, i can see pins moving. And i was shorting some last pins and it didn't said headphones is on.
There's a new feature in Android from 5.x or 6.x up, called Pressy Mode. It does exactly what the problem is here, and it can be controlled by Headset Button Controller app.
Probably intended for using the headset as antenna for a built-in tuner solely.
Ok, thank you all to trying to help me. I fixed this, it is working for now, i don't know for how long.
I connected for couple of seconds left channel and/or right channel by wire to the grounded Metal shield on board, and it started to detect headphones every time for now. The wire is not needed for constant working. I don't know how it worked. Also, motherboard was just a little moving over socket, so it was needed to make it hold still. I puted some little plastik on board so it pressed to the back. Works for now. I just dont know for how long. But there are still some little scrathes noises so it must be faulty IC or something in way from controller to the socket. The speaker has no scratch noises, works normal. but elements looks normal no green rust or anything.