Hello there,
It seems my headunit have cooling problems. It is very hot and I have faced two times burning smell.
I'm wondering if there is a way to add a cooler on my unit, which has actually passive heating. Or maybe to underclock something.
My headunit is a JY-UQ130, quadcore based, 1024x600. Any suggestion ? Thanks
Lwysiwyg said:
Hello there,
It seems my headunit have cooling problems. It is very hot and I have faced two times burning smell.
I'm wondering if there is a way to add a cooler on my unit, which has actually passive heating. Or maybe to underclock something.
My headunit is a JY-UQ130, quadcore based, 1024x600. Any suggestion ? Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just got a generic stick on heat sink and it seems to have helped my overheating problems, I wasn't having anything as severe as you, just reboots and lockups, nothing since adding the heat sink and the weather has been warmer. That one I linked to was large enough to cover the main chip and just about the 2 ram chips on the SOM board.
I added a heatsink and a 12V fan working at 5V (at 12V was too nosy) and problems have disappeared.
Sent from my JY-S3 using Tapatalk
Thanks for your answers !
I'm living in France. Will try to find out a local reseller.
Do you have some photos to share ? I just want to know where to place heatsink and cooler.
How did you powered your cooler ? Usb or special connector on car wires ? And how did you fixed it ?
Thx !
Lwysiwyg said:
Thanks for your answers !
I'm living in France. Will try to find out a local reseller.
Do you have some photos to share ? I just want to know where to place heatsink and cooler.
How did you powered your cooler ? Usb or special connector on car wires ? And how did you fixed it ?
Thx !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nothing powered, just the passive heatsink. Next time I open it up I will take some pictures.
Following your answers, I have ordered a 40x40x13 heatsink and adhesive pad :
http://www.ebay.fr/itm/272112881614...2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT#ht_4945wt_1117
http://www.ebay.fr/itm/281502871947?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Hope that will solve my burn smell issues ! If not, will try will an additionnal 40mm fan. More informations this week end
Hi there,
no news from my purchase for the moment. I am already waiting for my heatsink and adhesive pad ! More news later
Just to let you know I installed heatsink with thermal pad. I just needed to remove a black scotch at the bottom of the SOM, a little upon RK3188.
No issue at the moment, but temperatures are increasing in France right now. I hope my overheating issues and burning smell will go away now !
PS : touchscreen is really hot. Is this a known problem on RK3188 headunits ?
Lwysiwyg said:
Just to let you know I installed heatsink with thermal pad. I just needed to remove a black scotch at the bottom of the SOM, a little upon RK3188.
No issue at the moment, but temperatures are increasing in France right now. I hope my overheating issues and burning smell will go away now !
PS : touchscreen is really hot. Is this a known problem on RK3188 headunits ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a RK3188 radio myself, although not your exact model, and I've noticed the touchscreen is slightly warm but not hot to the touch.
I also haven't heard of anything in the way of a burning smell, that doesn't sound right.
If it persists, you may wish to look into something like a heatsink with a fan on it, and/or a ventilation fan mod, like I sometimes see on some of the newer OEM or aftermarket double-DIM car radios. That's a lot of work to fix what may be a latent defect, however.
Also, if possible, maybe you can acquire or borrow a pyrometer and get an idea of how hot this radio is getting. Then get in contact with manufacturer and see if they have an idea if this is normal.
It sounds to me like something is wrong with your stereo.
Let us know.
Thanks for your answer.
Since last post, no burning smell nor reboot or something strange. Just this poor radio signal ^^
Waiting for hotter temperatures in France. For now, we had reached 25°C but no more. More news later this month
Lwysiwyg said:
Thanks for your answer.
Since last post, no burning smell nor reboot or something strange. Just this poor radio signal ^^
Waiting for hotter temperatures in France. For now, we had reached 25°C but no more. More news later this month
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/and...ent/adding-heatsinks-to-rockchip-cpu-t3397555
I wrote an article here on adding heatsinks to the CPU. Please look over if you continue to have problems.
Related
Hi!
Soon i'm of for a vacation and i'm wondering if my HD2 can be damaged by the outblow of my AC in the car? The holder is fitted onto the outblow. I need to have it placed where i can see it because of my use of the GPS.
The device is freezing cold when i have driven a couple of miles!
I think it's just good for the device, or am i wrong here?
I wouldn't do it... Only a matter of time before the quick temp changes causes a dry connection...
Just get one of these They are solid and cheap...
I've been doing the same thing with mine for about 3 months so far.
But I do have a silicon cover on it, and its only the top 1" or so that is in the air path.
Peewees said:
I've been doing the same thing with mine for about 3 months so far.
But I do have a silicon cover on it, and its only the top 1" or so that is in the air path.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do the same thing, but , I usually let the phone lay on the console in the cool car for a while before I just jab it into the AC stream ...
you also run the risk of condensation between the layers of the screen. used to see it a lot when i sold sat navs,, clap cold device meets warm humid house, or vice versa, warm humid phone from sweaty pocket suddenly drops 25 degrees.
probably be ok, but i wouldn't do it.
Can't you turn off flow from vents individually?
br4nd0nh347 said:
Can't you turn off flow from vents individually?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you all for you answers!
And yes i can shut them off indivudually and will do so until i've moved the holder to a better place.
Thanks again!
ToddeSwe said:
Hi!
Soon i'm of for a vacation and i'm wondering if my HD2 can be damaged by the outblow of my AC in the car? The holder is fitted onto the outblow. I need to have it placed where i can see it because of my use of the GPS.
The device is freezing cold when i have driven a couple of miles!
I think it's just good for the device, or am i wrong here?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been doing the same thing since at least 2002 never had an issue with it.
If you're worried, just close the vent behind the device.
Hi all,
I had to replace the power button flex board of my i9100, but I made a mistake when soldering, and something shorted and a SMD in the board exploded with a *BANG* and went flying like a bright shooting star. Then came the smell of fried electronics, oh boy, that was horrible! Strangely, I couldn't locate which SMD component exploded, the boards looks fine, even if carefully examined with a 10x magnifier.
I thought the board was completely destroyed. But I fixed the power flex cable soldering, assembled the phone, connected it to the USB charger, and guess what?? The recovery menu appeared, some message appeared and quickly disappeared, and the phone booted normally! Everythting worked: network, wifi, bluetooth, camera, etc. However, the power button didn't work anymore, even now it's properly soldered.
I removed the battery to turn off the phone, but now it doesn't turn on with the button. If I plug it to USB, now it shows the charging battery screen, animated and all, but I can't turn on the phone anymore!
So I ask: does anyone know which SMD components take part in turning the phone on by pressing the power button? I can't find this info in the service manual, but I'm sure it's just a matter of replacing a burnt SMD resistor, capacitor or inductor, since the phone works, I saw it working!
So, does anyone have any info for me, or at least a detailed diagram of the circuitry, so I can find my way into that?
Thank you all in advance!!!
Eduardo
Marcovecchio said:
Hi all,
I had to replace the power button flex board of my i9100, but I made a mistake when soldering, and something shorted and a SMD in the board exploded with a *BANG* and went flying like a bright shooting star. Then came the smell of fried electronics, oh boy, that was horrible! Strangely, I couldn't locate which SMD component exploded, the boards looks fine, even if carefully examined with a 10x magnifier.
I thought the board was completely destroyed. But I fixed the power flex cable soldering, assembled the phone, connected it to the USB charger, and guess what?? The recovery menu appeared, some message appeared and quickly disappeared, and the phone booted normally! Everythting worked: network, wifi, bluetooth, camera, etc. However, the power button didn't work anymore, even now it's properly soldered.
I removed the battery to turn off the phone, but now it doesn't turn on with the button. If I plug it to USB, now it shows the charging battery screen, animated and all, but I can't turn on the phone anymore!
So I ask: does anyone know which SMD components take part in turning the phone on by pressing the power button? I can't find this info in the service manual, but I'm sure it's just a matter of replacing a burnt SMD resistor, capacitor or inductor, since the phone works, I saw it working!
So, does anyone have any info for me, or at least a detailed diagram of the circuitry, so I can find my way into that?
Thank you all in advance!!!
Eduardo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hola Eduardo,
you probably used a too high temperature in the soldering iron.
Google for "56542824-Samsung-GT-i9100-service-manual.pdf" and you will find a good service manual that will guide you on a series of problem.
I doubt that there's a procedure for your specific problem, but you may be able to know what SMD you have to replace.
I wish you luck, and next time make sure that the temperature is low (and eventually use a solder paste!)
robdpi said:
Hola Eduardo,
you probably used a too high temperature in the soldering iron.
Google for "56542824-Samsung-GT-i9100-service-manual.pdf" and you will find a good service manual that will guide you on a series of problem.
I doubt that there's a procedure for your specific problem, but you may be able to know what SMD you have to replace.
I wish you luck, and next time make sure that the temperature is low (and eventually use a solder paste!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply, robdpi!
The soldering iron temperature was ok, I used a 12W Weller micro soldering iron, temperature was not more than 550F / 300C, and I never leave the iron on the work for more than 3 continuous seconds. The problem was a short between two of the 3 pins in the connector. I noticed it only after the accident occurred, testing with my multimeter.
About the service manual, this is the one I have, and the testing procedures (voltages, frequencies) are all OK when plugged to the USB, but they all fail when I try to turn it on with the power button. And you're right, there's no procedure in the manual regarding this specific problem.
Anyway, I will keep trying, thanks again,
Eduardo
Well, after almost an year, I fixed the phone! I'll write about the solution here, to serve as a reference to anyone who needs help.
I managed to find the electrical schematics of the whole phone. With the information given in it, I noticed the connection between the positive battery pin and the flex power button connector was interrupted. Probably the short circuit I did overheated and blew some thin trace on the PCB and it kind of exploded. So I soldered a thin wire between the battery connector and the power button to replace the lost connection, and the phone is now working again! If anyone needs the schematics, just PM me and I will send it over.
But now, I'm back to another issue the phone already had, even before I did the short circuit: the screen shows horizontal lines, blurring the image. It started after I replaced a cracked screen. Does anyone have any idea if it's software or hardware related? May it be a driver issue? I'm from Brazil, and the screen came from Korea (bought at eBay). Should a korean screen work in my phone? Is it possible to confirm or not if it's hardware or software related?
Any help will be great, thanks in advance!
Eduardo
Post a screen.
Sent from the little guy
gastonw said:
Post a screen.
Sent from the little guy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I attached 8 pictures showing how the thing looks like. Please note the banding can't be seen on black background, and it's only horizontal. I used red arrows to show the banding. Vertical and curve artifacts are distortions caused by the camera.
If you pay attention to the file names (which have the time each picture was taken) it's possible to see how the thing gets worse with time. In the last pictures, screen goes completely unreadable, it degrades to an almost uniform bluish white.
I already tried flashing a custom kernel as suggested on another thread, but it didn't help. Already tried stock 4.0.4, that didn't work also.
Thanks a lot for any help.
Eduardo
Marcovecchio said:
I attached 8 pictures showing how the thing looks like. Please note the banding can't be seen on black background, and it's only horizontal. I used red arrows to show the banding. Vertical and curve artifacts are distortions caused by the camera.
If you pay attention to the file names (which have the time each picture was taken) it's possible to see how the thing gets worse with time. In the last pictures, screen goes completely unreadable, it degrades to an almost uniform bluish white.
I already tried flashing a custom kernel as suggested on another thread, but it didn't help. Already tried stock 4.0.4, that didn't work also.
Thanks a lot for any help.
Eduardo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have the same isue with my phone and i have another motherboard , but it didn't work....
ps: my screen is a genuine one
kozimcfly said:
i have the same isue with my phone and i have another motherboard , but it didn't work....
ps: my screen is a genuine one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean you tried the screen on two motherboards, and it shows the same problem on both? Could you please tell the country of origin of your motherboards and screen? I suspect it may be a hardware incompatibility issue.
In other words: motherboards sold in country X may not "talk" correctly to screens from country Y. My i9100 is from Brazil, but the screen came from a Korean seller at eBay.
By the way, does anyone know if the official firmwares come with low level hardware drivers? Is it possible to "transplant" the video driver from an asian firmware, to a south america firmware, for example?
I know about android phones which changed the wi-fi chip during their life cicle and this transplant used to be made, and worked. I would like to try the same for video.
Thanks!
Eduardo
Marcovecchio said:
You mean you tried the screen on two motherboards, and it shows the same problem on both? Could you please tell the country of origin of your motherboards and screen? I suspect it may be a hardware incompatibility issue.
In other words: motherboards sold in country X may not "talk" correctly to screens from country Y. My i9100 is from Brazil, but the screen came from a Korean seller at eBay.
By the way, does anyone know if the official firmwares come with low level hardware drivers? Is it possible to "transplant" the video driver from an asian firmware, to a south america firmware, for example?
I know about android phones which changed the wi-fi chip during their life cicle and this transplant used to be made, and worked. I would like to try the same for video.
Thanks!
Eduardo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
both of them from belgium
This is either a screen problem or a battery problem.
What happens when you swap batteries?
Sent from the little guy
gastonw said:
This is either a screen problem or a battery problem.
What happens when you swap batteries?
Sent from the little guy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have only one battery, so can't swap to test. But could you explain how could the battery cause this problem?
I just measured the battery voltage with a digital multimeter, and it's 4.15 V, fully charged. This is almost a half volt above the 3.7 V it should be. Do you think this may be the cause for all the problem?
Many tthanks!
Yeah, screen might not getting enough juice.
Sent from the little guy
gastonw said:
Yeah, screen might not getting enough juice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did another test: measured the battery voltage with the phone turned on, to check the voltage drop caused by phone load, but it seemed normal. With phone on, battery measured 3.8V approximately, which is a little less than the 4.15V I got without load. The battery indicator shows 75% battery charge. It looks like the battery is behaving well under load.
Anyway, I will try another battery as soon as I can.
Thanks again,
Eduardo
Well, I did test with another battery and the problem persists. Should I give up and consider it's really a screen hardware problem?
Thanks,
Eduardo
My guess was on the battery, I guess I'll take the screen problem then.
You should have it checked it out with a tech guy.
Sent from the little guy
Well, I think I went as far as I could. I replaced all 20 tiny SMD components from the display flex PCB with the ones from the old display, which cracked.
But it didn't work, the problem remains. Now I think the problem lies in the AMOLED screen itself, or perhaps in the main phone board. Who knows if the main board is sending dirty electrical signals to the display?
Anyway, I think I will just sell the phone the way it is, I can't afford spending even more money on this phone.
Thanks for the help, gastonw!
You got it Eduardo.
Sent from the little guy
Blue Angel still is a great device (especially regarding D-Two and his Android for BA-project:good with its large sized screen.
The only thing i always missed was GPS. Of course there are car cradles with GPS, but for hiking you always needed an extra device.
Unscrewing BAs i often wondered what this empty black box on top should be good for except carrying the antenna.
Took me some time for research till i found what i was looking for: Teleprovodnik Keychain Bluetooth GPS-Receiver.
The smallest one i could find, fits exactly to the backcover of Blue Angel. (eBay, € 19,--)
So i took a BA-Antenna (pic1,left/middle), peeled it off its carrier straight to the connectors and cut off the carrier right next to them (1/left/top).
Took Teleprovodnik, cut the battery cables and added some wire to connect the battery jack in the middle of the GPS-board with two flat brass contacts fixed to BA's backcover. These contacts are positioned into the outer gaps between those of BA Mainboard (pic4).
[Red is (+), black/blue is (-)]
Now the GPS device can drain its power as soon as BA has booted. If phone is off, the GPS receiver can't drain battery capacity.
Two lucky incidents: on/off switch of GPS is right next to top of backcover, so i mounted a BA volume switch that now serves the on/off of GPS.
(Another possibility would be replacing the IR-Screen by a microswitch (does anyone here still use infrared connection?) and let the one on GPS board turned on.)
And second the LEDs for bluetooth and satellite appear to sit right behind the camera hole. (Yes, i had to dismount the camera; maybe one day i'll find some smaller device, but as i still use a 30 years old analogue Praktika, i don't really miss it.) (both pic3)
Unfortunately Teleprovodnik doesn't have data output through his USB jack, so cable connection is useless and i have to use bluetooth.
But after all it works- after some fight against bluetooth&gps-settings on my BA , i now have a fully working GPS in my blue angel- just tap on wireless/bluetooth on my homescreen, turn the switch and start navigation
One small problem had to be solved- the level of network connection.
During my mounting experiments i didn't treat the antennafoil very well, cut off some parts...
...and lost about 15% of of network level compared to a second BA on same Network.
Now that the whole system is running, i'll work on optimizing the antenna.
If you put it in the wrong place, it shields the bluetoothconnectors or GPS-signal.
Maybe i'll add some ringantenna...
edit: 10.11.: took new antenna, now folded the parts i in former version had cut off, partly for giving place to switch inwards, and: excellent!
No difference to a non-modified phone any more.
The problem had been less disturbing if you used onboardnavigation; with google maps for example
you sometimes saw where you are on the map, but not the map itself until you reached an
area with better coverage. Tested on O2, which isn't this strong around here.
With Vodafone it's running better, but i keep O2 for testing.
Still sometimes occurs, but now only in areas where i know radio coverage is poor or worse.
I'll add some more detailed pics soon.
Mounting the switch:
First drill two holes, size and place as shown in pic below.
Use a file to remove the plastic between them.
Take a volume switch for Blue Angel, cut off the outer two silver parts.
After checking if the range it serves when placed into the longhole
fits to GPS' switch glue it into the Backcover of your BA.
You need to take two small right angled pieces of plastic, placed on the right side
and in front of the two vertical ribs on both sides of switchhole
(from the now useless antenna holder, has three different sizes) to
connect the switchholder to the upper side of the backcover and a
7x2mm strip roundet at one long edge to support the switch from underneath,
parallel to the horizontal line in backcover under the switchhole
(can be seen on the pic where the red switchholder is missing).
In first version this strip was broader, so i had to cut off a piece of antenna,
which came out to be no good idea. Obviously.
Now antenna fits under the horizontal part of switchholder.
The battery contacts:
Here i've taken some pieces of brass, 2x10mm bent to a hook at one side
so after installation they come parallel to the battery contacts on motherboard.
To place them two gaps have to be filed into the backcover.
The middle of each of these two gaps has to be 2,4mm from the side of the contact hole (a).
By this the GPS contacts sit right between the two outer contacts on each side of battery connector.
(For my proper version i've taken the two battery housing ground contacts from a dead BA, see (c). )
To fix the contacts a strip of black plastic (the thin material from antenna holder,
there's not enough room for the thick one) is glued over them.
At the same time you're doing this remove plastic at point (b) so GPS' board fits in.
Inbetween i found out CMOS backup battery CR2032 cable&plug is similar to the original of GPS receiver,
so i can replace the original one by one coming in one piece.
(some pics will follow)
Awesome work!
Thanks.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Don't just say thanks- klick it! (Of course i'm nevertheless glad 'bout it...)
Project is getting better and better, antenna problem solved.
Now working on a proper version for my own everyday-use.
Because of gsm-network-coverage, double-sim should be next project.
Together with D-Two we're heading for Blue Angel 2.0 !:highfive:
...of course i'm just providing a pearl on the icicle of D-Two's cake...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BT-Mini-Key...0570828383?pt=GPS_Devices&hash=item1e66a0ba5f
Found this, in case anyone want to buy something less...russian. Just ordered one.
EDIT: Also, how's your battery life with this thing?
ares93 said:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BT-Mini-Key...0570828383?pt=GPS_Devices&hash=item1e66a0ba5f
Found this, in case anyone want to buy something less...russian. Just ordered one.
EDIT: Also, how's your battery life with this thing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's quite the same device. All come from Taiwan, and mine also looked different when i ordered it.
They just change the coverprint...
Came without any description or datasheet except a sticker on the back- good luck
password as always is 0000 (if not it for shure would be 1234).
"Teleprovodnik
Bluetooth GPS Receiver
Model Keychain GPS2000
FCC ID: OUP961300101
Serial N°: xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Made in Taiwan" That's all.
(Funny: There's a company called Teleprovodnik in Bremen/Germany.)
Just found this:
General
GPS Chipset: MTK GPS
Frequency: L1,1575.42 MHZ
C/A Code: 1.023MHz chip rate
Channels: 51 CH for tracking
Antenna: Built-in patch with LNA
Datum: WGS-84
Acquisition Rate
Cold Start: 36 sec, average
Warm Start: 33 sec, average
Hot Start: 1 sec, average
Reacquisition: <1sec
Accuracy (none DGPS)
Position: Without aid: 3.0m; 2D-RMS DGPS:2.5m,2D-RMS
Velocity: Without aid: 0.1m/s; DGPS:0.05m/s
Sensitivity: -158 dBm (tracking)
Dynamic
Altitude: < 18,000m
Velocity: < 515m/sec
Acceleration: 4g
Protocol
GPS Output: NMEA-0183(V3.01) - GGA, GSA, GSV, RMC (default)
Data bit : 8, stop bit : 1 (Default)
Interface
Bluetooth? Version 1.2 compliant
Output Power: Class 2 (10 meter in free space)
Frequency: 2.4 to 2.48 GHz
Power
Battery: Li-Ion
Operation Time: 10 hrs
Power Charge: Mini USB
Environmental
Operating: -10°C to +60°C
Storage: -20°C to +60°C
Charging: 0°C to +45°C
Humidity: 5% to 90% non-condensing
Physical
Dimension: 46(W) x 32(L) x 14.7(H) mm
Weight: 22g
Others
Certification: CE / FCC / C-tick
LED: Bluetooth / GPS / Battery / charger status
Battery life i can't tell exactly, but with standard 1450mAh battery it's at least more than two hours
(which is more than twice as long as my HTC Kaiser runs on GPS);
i didn't yet make a long run test with 100% charged battery.
Tomorrow.
Of course it's also a difference, if you have your maps on SD card and don't continuously connect to internet.
And as there are batteries with up to 3600 or 4200 mAh i yet don't worry much about it.
edit: found a small manual in german and french on PDF.
NavGear KeyMate MK-51.
Download here: http://www.mediafire.com/file/1b8c2yj0802q5s8/NavGearMK51_Manual.pdf
B-44 said:
It's quite the same device. All come from Taiwan, and mine also looked different when i ordered it.
They just change the coverprint...
I'll post all Data as soon as i find again the backcover of mine.
Came without any description or datasheet except a sticker on the back- good luck
password as always is 0000 (if not it for shure would be 1234).
Battery life i can't tell exactly, but with standard 1450mAh battery it's at least more than two hours
(which is more than twice as long as my HTC Kaiser runs on GPS);
i didn't yet make a long run test with 100% charged battery.
Tomorrow.
Of course it's also a difference, if you have your maps on SD card and don't continuously connect to internet.
And as there are batteries with up to 3600 or 4200 mAh i yet don't worry much about it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ta, mate. Any chance you could throw in some high res pics in the update tomorrow? Is a bit difficult to see which power pins you used.
Btw, this is one of the best mods i've seen. I stopped using my BA because my bluetooth GPS died. But this mod, combined with D-two's Android build and maybe an early series motherboard (high OC) will give new life to my BA.
ares93 said:
Ta, mate. Any chance you could throw in some high res pics in the update tomorrow? Is a bit difficult to see which power pins you used.
Btw, this is one of the best mods i've seen. I stopped using my BA because my bluetooth GPS died. But this mod, combined with D-two's Android build and maybe an early series motherboard (high OC) will give new life to my BA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you mean the pins connecting to the battery- those are just flat pieces of brass (~3mm broad), which i bent to the same shape as the pins of the Mainboard. of course they shouldn't be fixed with tape but a piece of plastic glued over them. The tape solution i only chose for the pics.
And if you look at your battery: + and - each serve two of the mainboardpins.
As we're about it- on the Photo you see (a) where flat gaps have to be filed for the battery connectors, a piece of plastic with the same gaps should be taken as counterpart to fix the connectors (i'll upload a pic as soon as i've finished my version).
at (b) the vertical plastic has to be removed where indicated to give place to the GPS' board.
There's really no space to be spent
That's crazy what you just did
I'm not using GPS, but it still is a great piece of work from you! Did you test if it doesn't interferes with the Radio? I mean, for example making a call with GPS on.
ares93 said:
maybe an early series motherboard (high OC) .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
??? i think i could learn something right now...
miki100 said:
That's crazy what you just did
I'm not using GPS, but it still is a great piece of work from you! Did you test if it doesn't interferes with the Radio? I mean, for example making a call with GPS on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good question. In first phase when i tested GPS hunchbacked, nothing special occured.
But since i've build it in - i'll do my homework and report.
(But i don't expect it, as GPS is no NFC, and the frequencies are far different enough.
You could imagine some strange interference.)
B-44 said:
??? i think i could learn something right now...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Early Blueangels overclocked better than the newer ones. I had one that ran on 600mhz (594 or something similar). My current BA, one of the last ones ever manufactured according to HTC, based on the serial number, only does 471mhz stable with the original board. Everything above that locks up the device. I bought a busted mid-series BA for cheap and transplanted the motherboard, stable at 530mhz.
EDIT: Its a hit or miss really. Its almost impossible to identify early models if they're in good nick. I look for the ugliest, most used BA when I'm parts hunting. Bigger chance of the being older. If you have a few spare boards, it might be worth checking which one clocks best and use that.
EDIT2: Might just be dodgy statistics since I only own seven of these things, but from my experience, branded devices clock better. Again, might just be accidental but still.
ares93 said:
Early Blueangels overclocked better than the newer ones. I had one that ran on 600mhz (594 or something similar). My current BA, one of the last ones ever manufactured according to HTC, based on the serial number, only does 471mhz stable with the original board. Everything above that locks up the device. I bought a busted mid-series BA for cheap and transplanted the motherboard, stable at 530mhz.
EDIT: Its a hit or miss really. Its almost impossible to identify early models if they're in good nick. I look for the ugliest, most used BA when I'm parts hunting. Bigger chance of the being older. If you have a few spare boards, it might be worth checking which one clocks best and use that.
EDIT2: Might just be dodgy statistics since I only own seven of these things, but from my experience, branded devices clock better. Again, might just be accidental but still.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You know there's some overclock-function in D-Two's ROM?
Aside from this- IMEI-Number should be a good indicator. Last number is checksum, and those i think eight before it should tell you if you've got an early model...
Tested yesterday. Took a 1490mAh Battery, unchecked Display Off after XX minutes and ran Googlemaps. After 2 1/4 hours battery was down to 45% and device turned off.
I'm now rebuilding the whole installation to rediscover little steps i may have forgotten in between, as i'm working on the whole thing cince early in july with several interruptions.
And think about antenna as in the place i've got it now it may shield GPS antenna a bit.
edit:now tested with 2400mAh battery. I couldn't believe it! Amazing! After last test - but now running and running; after three hours warning/battery low/ of course dismissed... BA keeps on running with lumid display for at least 5hours44 (no joke!)minutes. Imagine now 3xxc or 4xxx mAh! Power management and age of battery seem to be really important. Will countertest with Sundreams ROM, has got superb data management, but mean keyboard.
edit2: gps fix in new area ~5 minutes, re-log in less than 2.
B-44 said:
Don't just say thanks- klick it! (Of course i'm nevertheless glad 'bout it...)
Project is getting better and better, antenna problem solved.
Now working on a proper version for my own everyday-use.
Because of gsm-network-coverage, double-sim should be next project.
Together with D-Two we're heading for Blue Angel 2.0 !:highfive:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dual-sim adapter like this: http://www.ebay.de/itm/DUAL-SIM-Ada...94541452?pt=Handy_Zubehör&hash=item4abcc3ff8c should work.
I tested one in my xda flame. There are a lot of brands out there. Mine was a Magicsim 3G - no cut. Look for: dual sim adapter 3G on ebay. About 15 Euro used. I like the no cut version with the foil board in between, as it is more flexible to build in.
SpecTec SDG-810 2-in-1 SDIO GPS Receiver Card & Micro SD
It would be nice if this had a linux driver, wasn't $50+, and didn't stick so far out of the top. Link
notime2d8 said:
It would be nice if this had a linux driver, wasn't $50+, and didn't stick so far out of the top. Link
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've seen those devices but they are useless to us. First as you said they stick out totally uncomfortably, and second they would hinder us from using a 16GB storage card.
The ones i yet couldn't cope with are USB-sticks... maybe we could unshell them. Data connection will be the question.
muckelmaus said:
Dual-sim adapter like this: http://www.ebay.de/itm/DUAL-SIM-Ada...94541452?pt=Handy_Zubehör&hash=item4abcc3ff8c should work.
I tested one in my xda flame. There are a lot of brands out there. Mine was a Magicsim 3G - no cut. Look for: dual sim adapter 3G on ebay. About 15 Euro used. I like the no cut version with the foil board in between, as it is more flexible to build in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool you're here. As i wrote- double sim is NEXT, i know different devices, but first i'll take a look at optimizing antenna. I often don't see a difference to normal BA, but just want to get a little trick more...
Hello everyone.
I just ordered an LG V10 H961N (dual sim) and i expect it to arrive within 8 days.
but i've got a couple of questions.
I come from a LG G3 which had plenty of roms and root etc but what is available for the v10?
1. Which latest android version has root on the H961N?
2. What rom is currently the best (root or without) (latest android)?
And since i get a "new" v10 i can post a dump if that's what you guys want to have. just tell me how and what's relevant and i'll get it done.
Also about the overheating/bootloop thing, I modded my G3 with a piece of thermal pad and thermal paste. the screen gets just a little bit more warm however i've never had any problems with the phone.
Now is my plan to do the same with the V10 to prevent problems from happening.
i've bought 1mm thick thermal pad but i don't know if this is to thick or not.
Do any of you guys have any experience with it?
(i don't have any LG warranty so i don't mind a little mod to lengthen the life span of my new phone)
aliexpress: item/Original-LG-V10-4GB-RAM-64GB-ROM-5-7-Octa-Core-Android-5-1-LTE-4G/32752661897.html
Is where i bought it
What are the options with the v10 as of now?
Look for something similar on youtube. The device its very simple to disassemble and there is not problem to reach the core to put the thermal pad. I don't think it is a bad idea but you need to know what are you doing. I try to avoid the overheating issues (and bootloop problem) using a regular charger from my old S2 (I don't trust at all to "quick charge" mode) and to not gaming when its on charge. The best options would be to have two batteries with external charger for both of them. For now nothing happen on my device (1 y and 6 months).
Let us know
Sorry for my English
Blard23xx said:
Look for something similar on youtube. The device its very simple to disassemble and there is not problem to reach the core to put the thermal pad. I don't think it is a bad idea but you need to know what are you doing. I try to avoid the overheating issues (and bootloop problem) using a regular charger from my old S2 (I don't trust at all to "quick charge" mode) and to not gaming when its on charge. The best options would be to have two batteries with external charger for both of them. For now nothing happen on my device (1 y and 6 months).
Let us know
Sorry for my English
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No need to apologise for English, it's the world wide web after all.
I-am experienced and comftable taking phones and many other devices apart and making hardware mods.
I've searched all over the internet but no one can tell me the amount of space between the soc and the shielding sadly thus i gambled on 1mm.
But if someone does know, i'd like to know as well.
Good tips, thank you
TrueFawkes said:
No need to apologise for English, it's the world wide web after all.
I-am experienced and comftable taking phones and many other devices apart and making hardware mods.
I've searched all over the internet but no one can tell me the amount of space between the soc and the shielding sadly thus i gambled on 1mm.
But if someone does know, i'd like to know as well.
Good tips, thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
get the arctic cooling gap filler thermal pad.i have it installed in my v10 and it compresses easily for a tight contact with the processor. now the front of the phone gets hotter then the back, figures cause heatsink plate is attached to display.phone is very easy to disassemble.though i dont understand why you would gamble on the v10 now.yes its very cheap for a very capable phone, but even having better thermal cooling might not prevent the bootloop.
jass65 said:
get the arctic cooling gap filler thermal pad.i have it installed in my v10 and it compresses easily for a tight contact with the processor. now the front of the phone gets hotter then the back, figures cause heatsink plate is attached to display.phone is very easy to disassemble.though i dont understand why you would gamble on the v10 now.yes its very cheap for a very capable phone, but even having better thermal cooling might not prevent the bootloop.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Becouse the LG G3 supposidly had the same problems but i never experienced them.
And i've got a reflow oven standing by.
How thick is that "arctic cooling gap filler thermal pad"?
1.5mm but it compresses nicely
I have a strange issue related to kenzo(rn3). My battery was swollen. So got rid of it. But when I went to buy a new battery the touch stopped working. So I tried to get it repaired in local shops bcz mi center were charging 4k. But local guys couldn't fix it. The issue was may be of motherboard. After some days I again restarted(with charger only, didn't bought battery) as usual, this time the touch worked with no problem even after restarts. So I bought the battery and was using the phone. But the battery backup was not good bcz of miui 9.5. So I searched for a good sot rom. I downgraded to miui 7.6.3. No imei issue happened but touch again is unresponsive. I tried installing miui 9.5 with no luck. I think the issue is on the software part. I clean flash installed roms every time by miflash. Help anyone. Please.
I think your problem is a unique case, I can't relate. However, I DO get those touchscreen problems. I get that very-very-rarely. A forced restart by holding the power fixes it.
I recently changed to MIUI 9.5.6.0, haven't gotten any of it yet. I previously came from Official Nougat LOS, and then changed to xiaomi.eu ROM before finally change to this genuine stock MIUI. I got that issue in both LOS and xiaomi.eu.
Restarting couldn't help me.
IvanKurnia said:
I think your problem is a unique case, I can't relate. However, I DO get those touchscreen problems. I get that very-very-rarely. A forced restart by holding the power fixes it.
I recently changed to MIUI 9.5.6.0, haven't gotten any of it yet. I previously came from Official Nougat LOS, and then changed to xiaomi.eu ROM before finally change to this genuine stock MIUI. I got that issue in both LOS and xiaomi.eu.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe there is some hardware issue. But why after flashing the stock rom it doesn't responding.
Do you use original touch? Or focaltech?
If you change some hardware i recommend to reinstall rom and kernel (the rom with fastboot).
Equally the battery (i think) may not generate this issue.
Oh! I remember in other device my charger freeze my phone... But its very rare... What charger do you use commonly?
Chrisis25 said:
Do you use original touch? Or focaltech?
If you change some hardware i recommend to reinstall rom and kernel (the rom with fastboot).
Equally the battery (i think) may not generate this issue.
Oh! I remember in other device my charger freeze my phone... But its very rare... What charger do you use commonly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I once got the touch repaired at the service center. It was 2 years ago. I have installed rom in edl mode. When the touch again worked on its own, there was only charger connected to it. The issue may not be with the charger. May be I should try with more local repair shops.
Use aida or other software to see touch model and if you have focaltech i recommend to you agni kernel 13. In Aroma do you set focaltech option.
If you have original touch the problem may be other...
flash agni use focaltouch libs
Chrisis25 said:
Use aida or other software to see touch model and if you have focaltech i recommend to you agni kernel 13. In Aroma do you set focaltech option.
If you have original touch the problem may be other...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The touch is not working in twrp too. Any other way to install kernel. May be using miflash?
Rishab kaushik said:
The touch is not working in twrp too. Any other way to install kernel. May be using miflash?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i dont know... do you can ask to developer to only focaltech compilation... equally i dont know... I believed that Focaltech was compatible in recovery but not in system (i never have Focaltech and im not sure if your problem is it.)
Your problem is very rare... but make me remember similar problems in notebooks with touchpad and steel case...
in some notebooks if the case is steel and you touch the case, the touchpad not work but if you dont touch the case work perfect (yeah... this is rare but in my opinion is "ground" (talking about electricity) problem.)
i dont have more ideas, your problem is very strange and probably hardware.
Good luck bro
Chrisis25 said:
i dont know... do you can ask to developer to only focaltech compilation... equally i dont know... I believed that Focaltech was compatible in recovery but not in system (i never have Focaltech and im not sure if your problem is it.)
Your problem is very rare... but make me remember similar problems in notebooks with touchpad and steel case...
in some notebooks if the case is steel and you touch the case, the touchpad not work but if you dont touch the case work perfect (yeah... this is rare but in my opinion is "ground" (talking about electricity) problem.)
i dont have more ideas, your problem is very strange and probably hardware.
Good luck bro
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the suggestions. May be its more hardware related. It was just a luck when the touch worked on its own. May be some shorting is there. One more point I want to add is that when the battery was swollen the display bent too. Some impact may be on the motherboard too. The local repair guys confirmed touch is good. May be the motherboard is dying.
U.U
Remember: you can use keyboard and mouse USB if you need to use "Titanium Backup" or other app.
What's happened is most likely this. The swollen battery bent the mainboard's PCB and either cracked some solder joints or lifted a pad/broke a trace. Now you have bad, intermittent connection. You could probably reflow the joints using a hot air station but you wouldn't be here asking for help if you had the required tools. If it's a lifted pad under a big chip, that's simply too much work (anyone that can do that would ask for at least the cost of a new phone).
troolie said:
What's happened is most likely this. The swollen battery bent the mainboard's PCB and either cracked some solder joints or lifted a pad/broke a trace. Now you have bad, intermittent connection. You could probably reflow the joints using a hot air station but you wouldn't be here asking for help if you had the required tools. If it's a lifted pad under a big chip, that's simply too much work (anyone that can do that would ask for at least the cost of a new phone).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what I have seen on the pcb, there is a probable smd part near the power ic. You correctly inferred that I don't have tools to fully inspect/try blowing hot air. But I did tried blowing hot air using a hair dryer. I also do suspect that repair shops I went didn't tried that. Thanks for the suggestions.
troolie said:
What's happened is most likely this. The swollen battery bent the mainboard's PCB and either cracked some solder joints or lifted a pad/broke a trace. Now you have bad, intermittent connection. You could probably reflow the joints using a hot air station but you wouldn't be here asking for help if you had the required tools. If it's a lifted pad under a big chip, that's simply too much work (anyone that can do that would ask for at least the cost of a new phone).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some more questions. What is a lifted pad?
Some more insights are, Once the touch was worked on its own, it worked pretty well. I then purchased the battery and installed. Used the phone for 2 days. And then I downgraded and touch went unresponsive. Could it be really a hw issue? Well I too think that it's a hw issue. But couldn't help myself question this. Maybe there is some irregular voltage being supplied. The touch might now be accustomed to the power provided by the old battery?
Some devices can work with charger without battery (notebooks, some tablets and phones, i dont know if all)
Try with this to test if work fine all... If yes i recommend you test your battery voltage/ampers.
Chrisis25 said:
Some devices can work with charger without battery (notebooks, some tablets and phones, i dont know if all)
Try with this to test if work fine all... If yes i recommend you test your battery voltage/ampers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When the touch worked on its own, it was only without battery because i dumped the old one and didn't bought new because the touch wasn't working. When the touch worked it was connected to the charger only. Battery is giving output of 3-4 Volts.
Rishab kaushik said:
When the touch worked on its own, it was only without battery because i dumped the old one and didn't bought new because the touch wasn't working. When the touch worked it was connected to the charger only. Battery is giving output of 3-4 Volts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
3 or 4? the bm47 (our battery if im right) suply 4.4v your problem may be this.
Chrisis25 said:
3 or 4? the bm47 (our battery if im right) suply 4.4v your problem may be this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The voltage when checked fluctuated bw 3 to 4. The multi meter reading was not showing volts after decimal. I will check. Again with a more accurate multimeter in a while.
The battery model is bm46 though. And what does 3.85 depict on the battery?
what i dont know (again)...
4.4v charger voltage (after pass of diode and otherf circuit?)
3.85v to output? (phone use)
if yes your multimeter reading is good (3v and 4v).
i try to help you with ideas but is very rare this.
Rishab kaushik said:
From what I have seen on the pcb, there is a probable smd part near the power ic. You correctly inferred that I don't have tools to fully inspect/try blowing hot air. But I did tried blowing hot air using a hair dryer. I also do suspect that repair shops I went didn't tried that. Thanks for the suggestions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, modern electronics use lead free solder with a melting point that's somewhere around 250°c. Basically you need an extra 100 degrees to reflow and I doubt your hair dryer can go as high as that. It's only good enough to melt adhesive.
Rishab kaushik said:
Some more questions. What is a lifted pad?
Some more insights are, Once the touch was worked on its own, it worked pretty well. I then purchased the battery and installed. Used the phone for 2 days. And then I downgraded and touch went unresponsive. Could it be really a hw issue? Well I too think that it's a hw issue. But couldn't help myself question this. Maybe there is some irregular voltage being supplied. The touch might now be accustomed to the power provided by the old battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A lifted pad is when the copper contact is ripped off the board as a result of excessive flexing or overheat, usually under a big IC. This ends up damaging or cutting the trace leading to that pad. To fix that, you can only micro solder a very thin insulated wire under a microscope. You may need to desolder the component resting on that pad first to fix the pcb.
Certainly, a component might operate just a bit out of specs but since you don't have schematics, you'd have to do hours of guess work, assuming you already know how. I suppose you could randomly replace likely culprits and hope for the best but... Well, let's say it's far from ideal.