I have two Mi Boxes. Both have lousy WiFi reception. I finally decided to open one up and see if I could re-position the antenna or replace it. To my surprise, there was no antenna. I opened my other Mi Box and it didn't have an antenna either. There is a little plug for the antenna, but the antenna itself is missing.
The antenna plug is the same one found in most laptops and WiFi cards, variously called an IPX, IPEX, or U.FL plug. You can buy antennas with this plug on ebay or Amazon for about $2. They come as little flags you can stick down or little pcb boards which can have 5dbi or more gain.
I got a couple of 8dbi gain pcb antennas. The can be positioned inside the Mi Box case, but I drilled a small hole and ran them outside where they are clear of the electronics and big steel heatsink and can be aimed at the router. No soldering, just open the Mi Box, take out the four screws that hold the motherboard. Slowly pull off the motherboard which is stuck to the heatsink, and then plug in the antenna. Simple.
My WiFi download speed has almost tripled from less than 10mbs to almost 30mbs. I get 20mbs even through my VPN. I now can stream 1080 HD movies on Netflix without stuttering or buffering.
Spend $2 and 15 minutes work and you won't hate your Mi Box anymore.
Make sure the antenna will do 5ghz
I almost forgot, make sure you get an antenna that will work for both 2.4ghz and 5ghz.
Sound intressting ... maybe you upload a photo of the antenna ? wich type ?
Thanks in advance Dr Vega
Greetings Phil from Belgium
Pilsor said:
Sound intressting ... maybe you upload a photo of the antenna ? wich type ?
Thanks in advance Dr Vega
Greetings Phil from Belgium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Thanks for opening this up man!! Trying to make this thing last a bit longer, this will help. We will also have Oreo anyday now as more screen shots are being posted.
Could you show me the way to open the case, does it need heating or something else?
Opening the Mi Box case
hhai93 said:
Could you show me the way to open the case, does it need heating or something else?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, it can be tough to open. There're no screws or anything, just the clips all around the edge. I started with a sharp knife to open a crack and then slid in a credit card and ran that around the edge to release the clips. One of those plastic thingies to open cell phones works even better than a credit card.
dr_vega said:
Yeah, it can be tough to open. There're no screws or anything, just the clips all around the edge. I started with a sharp knife to open a crack and then slid in a credit card and ran that around the edge to release the clips. One of those plastic thingies to open cell phones works even better than a credit card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Link the the antenna that you've bought please? I searched on ebay but there are many kinds of ipex connector
hhai93 said:
Link the the antenna that you've bought please? I searched on ebay but there are many kinds of ipex connector
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Something like this should work.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-4G-5G-5-...862018?hash=item3d60e89bc2:g:Zc8AAOSwAXZa2AJD
dr_vega said:
Something like this should work.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-4G-5G-5-...862018?hash=item3d60e89bc2:g:Zc8AAOSwAXZa2AJD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you! Just bought one, will be arrived at the end of May :fingers-crossed:
dr_vega said:
I have two Mi Boxes. Both have lousy WiFi reception. I finally decided to open one up and see if I could re-position the antenna or replace it. To my surprise, there was no antenna. I opened my other Mi Box and it didn't have an antenna either. There is a little plug for the antenna, but the antenna itself is missing.
The antenna plug is the same one found in most laptops and WiFi cards, variously called an IPX, IPEX, or U.FL plug. You can buy antennas with this plug on ebay or Amazon for about $2. They come as little flags you can stick down or little pcb boards which can have 5dbi or more gain.
I got a couple of 8dbi gain pcb antennas. The can be positioned inside the Mi Box case, but I drilled a small hole and ran them outside where they are clear of the electronics and big steel heatsink and can be aimed at the router. No soldering, just open the Mi Box, take out the four screws that hold the motherboard. Slowly pull off the motherboard which is stuck to the heatsink, and then plug in the antenna. Simple.
My WiFi download speed has almost tripled from less than 10mbs to almost 30mbs. I get 20mbs even through my VPN. I now can stream 1080 HD movies on Netflix without stuttering or buffering.
Spend $2 and 15 minutes work and you won't hate your Mi Box anymore.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi.
I have two MiBox and the connector is not the standard that is used for antennas. It is a Hirose MS-156C, usually used as a test point, so it is not possible to connect antennas with an IPEX connector.
Can you detail how you did it?
Thank you.
diruix said:
Hi.
I have two MiBox and the connector is not the standard that is used for antennas. It is a Hirose MS-156C, usually used as a test point, so it is not possible to connect antennas with an IPEX connector.
Can you detail how you did it?
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That may be true, but IPEX worked for me. I bought a couple of the antennas in the picture. One was hard to press onto the connector and I used a needle nose pliers to apply pressure. The other one snapped on with just fingers.
diruix said:
Hi.
I have two MiBox and the connector is not the standard that is used for antennas. It is a Hirose MS-156C, usually used as a test point, so it is not possible to connect antennas with an IPEX connector.
Can you detail how you did it?
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I confirm that the Ipex connector is compatible.
I tried to insert the antenna into the connector for 5 minutes pressing it with my fingers, but then I decided to use a screwdriver handle for this, I pushed harder, and I was able to connect the antenna.
Toliyn said:
I confirm that the Ipex connector is compatible.
I tried to insert the antenna into the connector for 5 minutes pressing it with my fingers, but then I decided to use a screwdriver handle for this, I pushed harder, and I was able to connect the antenna.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The most important question is "After you forced the connection, did you see a performance increase?" Hopefully, something more than placebo...
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Mr.BungIe said:
The most important question is "After you forced the connection, did you see a performance increase?" Hopefully, something more than placebo...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To begin with, I was unpleasantly surprised with the reception quality of the mi box.
I have a noname Chinese tv box with which there are enough problems, but none of them related with receiving a wi-fi signal.
When I turned on mi box for the first time without an external antenna connected, the device was able to connect to wi-fi and start downloading updates, but the online video playback and TV playback over ott playlist did not work. I even rebooted the mi box several times to make sure that the problem is not related with the updates.
Then I put the antenna all worked as expected.
So I think so. There is a noticeable difference when using an external antenna.
isn't there any android tool that mesure the wifi strength signal ?
If yes it would be nice to have some results before/after
but of course your feedback is very nice.
I had too issues, i fixed them by moving my wifi extender (my wifi router is at 1st floor and on the roof i have an extender to make sure that I have enought signal at both floor. but as the mibox whas having difficulties I moved the extender from one room to very close to the mibox) and since them streaming 1080p video is no more any issue.
But of course installing an antenna would be nice ... or maybe an ethernet usb hub ....
Indeed I may start looking at 4k movies end of the year, and plan to use the mibox (hoping that it will have enougth power)
Did anyone ever confirm if this is an antenna port or not
I just tested this out myself using the same aerial linked earlier, and I found it made no difference to signal strength or throughput. This was determined using the IP tools app and some file transfers.
In fact even though the connector seemed to be a good fit, I found that the middle pin wasn't actually making any contact. I verified this using one of the solder pads next to the connector which has a direct connection to the middle pin socket on the PCB.
I figured this may be why I saw no difference in signal so I cut the plug off the aerial and soldered the wires directly to the mibox and made sure the connections were good, and guess what - still no difference.
As I don't have anything to probe that connector with to see exactly what if anything is coming out I can't verify what it is supposed to do. But I wouldn't waste your time trying to connect an aerial to it.
Lemonato said:
I just tested this out myself using the same aerial linked earlier, and I found it made no difference to signal strength or throughput. This was determined using the IP tools app and some file transfers.
In fact even though the connector seemed to be a good fit, I found that the middle pin wasn't actually making any contact. I verified this using one of the solder pads next to the connector which has a direct connection to the middle pin socket on the PCB.
I figured this may be why I saw no difference in signal so I cut the plug off the aerial and soldered the wires directly to the mibox and made sure the connections were good, and guess what - still no difference.
As I don't have anything to probe that connector with to see exactly what if anything is coming out I can't verify what it is supposed to do. But I wouldn't waste your time trying to connect an aerial to it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did it too and "Lemonato" is right, there is no change on the wifi reception.
** sorry... don't know why the pics is not showing
anyone tried using this mod?
https://youtu.be/Nk-nj_BwoBE?t=5m30s
Related
Does anyone know what the connector for external antennas on the back of the wizard is called? I want to build a custom antenna that I can embed into my clothing to improve reception at school. I can't use a regular antenna since phones aren't allowed to be used at school.
HDR said:
Does anyone know what the connector for external antennas on the back of the wizard is called? I want to build a custom antenna that I can embed into my clothing to improve reception at school. I can't use a regular antenna since phones aren't allowed to be used at school.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The antenna part is:
P/N:36H00341-00M "Antenna Pre-Assy, AMPHENOL, GAN40023, PRODIGY"
I am attaching 2 pictures, the first you can see the Antenna Assembly (silver chunky thing above the case) and a second picture of the main board. You can see the brass connector just above the bar code.
This connector type is an AMPHENOL (brand) FME...at least it should be. One of these days I'll get and antenna.
--M
PS when you get the antenna, get a connector that at least has a 90degree bend in it. You might want to try http://www.wilsonelectronics.com
I have one
I grabbed one of those adapters, unfortunately, I cannot remember where. One end (FME) fits into the back of the phone with the 90 degree plug, the other end on mine is a TNC connector. I got that as I had a couple of spare antennas that use TNC.
It does improve the reception. I use the antenna's in the vehicle when on the highway to maintain reception. (I have no problems in the city)
Depending on your device, you may want to update the Radio ROM, if you haven't already. This doesn't flash/reset your phone, but does update the radio. This might resolve your problem without spending any money.
I am using the 2.47.11 Radio ROM and it did make a difference. My device is the T-Mobile MDA (Wizard). In a particular location, where I would get zero reception, I now get one bar...and that's all the difference I need.
P.S. If you do get this adapter, be careful when plugging it in and during use. Remember that FME connector is attached to the circuit board.
ok i may have this completely wrong as i have not tested it yet but i noticed on the back of my tg01 i had 2 round black stickers, one top left, one middle left.
After peeling this stickers off i have 2 little ports which look remarkably like the ports used on internal wifi chips (laptops, nintendo ds) which the areial plugs into for the wifi signal
We can now enhance the tg01's wifi reception with a little careful wire placement
i hope his helps someone with the wifi reception & maybe better battery life as its not having to try so hard for a signal
comments?
Are you sure one of those are not for a external GSM antenna? Like for using in a car
no, i did think this but they are to small. only 2-3mm across. i know what im talking about when it comes to hardware, they are definitely wifi ant. ports.
http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?i...internal+wifi+connector&um=1&hl=en&tbs=isch:1
this site has loads of pics and prices for the relevant hardware
its called an ipx connector, the pigtails they sell can be used to act as the antennae.
i think this could be a good thing
that connector u linked in is a standard connector used with laptop wifi card , they have a little pin in the middle , the connector on the tg01 has no pin in the middle , the ring around it is the shading
kk here is what i know so far.....
most (if not all) builtin wifi chips have an antenae port out, i know this through research with the nintendo ds, and internal laptop chip on various laptops ranging from toshiba to sony.
they commonly have two of the ipx ports for the loop with the wifi flylead.
it may be possible qualcomm have used a proprietary ipx adapter for extra sales through the hardware of there chipset or toshiba have gotten the grubby little hands on it and done it that way
we need people who want to run an experiment on this and find out if they are what i think they are or if im completely wrong
volunteers????
i happen to have a connector ur looking for , but , it doesnt have a pin in the middle and its 90' angled so it wont fit unless i get the back cover off ... with that said , i dont have a 3angled srewdriver thats needed
... ill make some pics later
could it be possible the snapdragon chipset has done away with the pin for a design point? they may be purely there as a dud bit of hardware as qualcomm have directly etched the wifi ant onto pcb and not allowing the flylead?
or...
they may be semi usable with the core (the bit with the pin) etched onto the pcb and the earth allowed to be enhanced by just using the outer rim of these ipx ports?
or...
im totally wrong and as well as the usb host function you could attach a couple of jump leads to the beast via these ports and jump start that big ol v8 what keeps stalling?
Perhaps they could be test points, do you think you can show us a photograph?
i will upload pics tomorrow, they wont be great quality as i have to use my wifes blackberry for em and it dont take great up close pics.
test points are a possibility, tbh it did cross my mind but usually there just dotson the pcb, not ports, but it is a more advanced piece of hardware.
just out of interest but if you were to hook it up with the ports via usb, there would be a chance you could damage it because of the power usb ports output. if it turns out to be wifi then your gonna blow the chip or worse.
but if you want to try it then by all means psot results
hope this help
http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/5106/p1210021g.jpg
nice one!
looks like it connects two aerials for better wifi/radio
compare the connector with this
i558.photobucket.com/albums/ss28/linyedongwyl/Intel-5300-half.jpg
thats the connector for the ipx that has been linked earlier , this is a little different , it would be nice to see what the connectors look like on the tg's wires?
alrite , lets compare this baby to the xperia x1
www.phonewreck.com/wiki/images/b/b2/Xperia_x1_pcb_1.jpg
u can clearly see it also has two unused connectors of the same kind wich appear to be unused /but on tg the two upper ones were connected on the pcb!!!/
as for the interconnection of unknown function on the backplate they used the battery cover to pass it thru(the cover's back is unpainted on thoose specific points to give conduction) if it were to just hold the cover in place the would of left the paint on
see the four pins on the phone around the battery
www.ubergizmo.com/photos/2009/3/xperia-x1-battery.jpg
so i was right, we can get better wifi signal with these ports.
and then
better signal + less energy needed = better battery life
and the SE using the conductor pins for the back cover they have used that on the old w series of phones to. no real idea of what it does though
thanks to those who uploaded pics, helped out a lot with explaining what they are and the circuit detail.
so who' gonna be the first to install this on there phone and so testing for battery life and signal improvement?
Did you get anywhere with this? Very interested!
This sort of thing would surely work:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/800-900-1...099221?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item4ced70add5
IPX antenna.
Alternatively.. what would almost 100% work is a replacement antenna cable for the tg01
Although I could be wrong... if you look at this review of the LG P990 (Optimus 2X) you will notice the two different types of connector: http://www.anandtech.com/show/4144/...gra-2-review-the-first-dual-core-smartphone/9
External aerial points for testing the phones at the factory? Can they be used/abused to get an external or bigger aerial setup? What connector is that without the pin????????
Update.. is it an MMCX connector ? (or even MMCX-KC). I am tempted to buy one from ebay (although my TG01 is bricked LMAO, at least I'd know if it fit!) Pretty certain now it's an MMCX connector. Now trouble is... you can get that connector for GSM and GPS... so what are the connectors for I wonder.
For example.. I have terrible reception in the office so having a bigger external aerial on the phone may help, but I'd be interested in a better GPS cable as well Let's have some fun!
EDIT: OR.. I just had a look at my Moto V3i external connection and that is almost identical to the connectors on the TG01.. and it looks like you can get an aerial/antenna kit for the v3/v3i Might give it ago but it's pricey at about £20 :-(
LMAO @ this link: http://www.ehow.com/how_7580234_increase-reception-v3i.html Fancy testing a paperclip guys?
Well... I just ordered a 3G/UMTS antenna from china (so will be a while) with a MMCX connector. I will let you guys know if it fits AND works
Another edit LOL: I also just ordered another external antenna. This time for the V3i RAZR, as it looks like it has the same connector type as the TG01, so will give that a go. Only cost £8.05 for the adaptor and the antenna, so not 'too' bad for something that should fit.
Hello. The other day, I discovered that my HD2 had a loose connection on the micro USB entrance. When the cable was plugged in, the connection was only made when the cable was pushed upside.
So I got it for repair, but yesterday the workshop called and said it was my own fault, so they will only fix it for a prize of 540$. As a prove for saying it's my own fault, they send me this picture: http://app1.appserver.dk:8080/RepairPictures/servlet/getPic?id=51371.
They says that the pins from usb entrance is detached from the chip(motherboard), and that could only happen if I'd misused my HD2.
I declined the price offer for the repair, and they will ship my HD2 back.
My question is; Can I fix it myself? Maybe solder the pins to the chip? Is that possible? And how can I disassemble the HD2? Which tools do I need?
Please help!
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
The picture isn't very clear, it's hard to say if it's possible and how easy/hard is it. It should be possible, though, but is probably going to be a tedious task. What you need to do is disassemble the phone to the point you can access the USB connector, just like they did on this pic. Take a look where are those detached traces supposed to connect to. Mind the possibility of it also going under the connector, take a look if there are any damaged via points etc. After you did this, you know what you have to restore, from this point on you should also know if you are up to the task.
InfX said:
The picture isn't very clear, it's hard to say if it's possible and how easy/hard is it. It should be possible, though, but is probably going to be a tedious task. What you need to do is disassemble the phone to the point you can access the USB connector, just like they did on this pic. Take a look where are those detached traces supposed to connect to. Mind the possibility of it also going under the connector, take a look if there are any damaged via points etc. After you did this, you know what you have to restore, from this point on you should also know if you are up to the task.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let's put it up this way: If it was you, would you try fixing it yourself?
Yes. But i do have some hardware related experience
Note that the price of $540 is TOTALLY not worth it, you can probably get a new HD2 for this price.
Have you tried another/new cable ?
britoso said:
Have you tried another/new cable ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, but you can clearly see some broken traces on the pic. If that's really is how it looks like, trying a new cable, or doing anything that applies any mechanical force to that connector, can only do more damage.
i had a very similar problem with my htc universal back in the days, and had a console chipper repair it for me but if you're experienced using a soldering iron, maybe you can fix it yourself.
a "console chipper" should have a lot of experience patching this kind of electronic stuff, indeed
I have just had this happen to me with an O2UK HD2.
Anovo have charged me £280 for the repair, claiming it needs a new pcb.
This isn't missuse, this is poor quality. I have never had this happen before and i am inclined to believe its a fault with poorly secured micro usb connectors.
It looks like i'll have to dig out my soldering iron too, lets hope i don't overheat the pads!!
I have an HD2 with a non working usb problem...I have yet to open it up to verify whether its a mechanical or software related issue...I'm betting looks like your pic on the inside
Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch 3G Slide using XDA App
Throatchopper said:
I have an HD2 with a non working usb problem...I have yet to open it up to verify whether its a mechanical or software related issue...I'm betting looks like your pic on the inside
Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch 3G Slide using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yup same problem here but i have to have the usb cable hanging down from the connector to have it work
i agree ****ty assembly process... and i know i used to solder motherboards and power supplies for work
I have the same problem with the usb connection. Can't connect it to the computer anymore. But my windows button also broke.................bad buildquality to bad.
And probobly no warranty cuase i have ozdroid 2.00 installed and can't flash it back anymore..............
Same problem here,
The connection is only made when the cable is pushed upside.
I thought maybe I just replace the mainboard, but that's not possible because these are not sold.. (Different IMEI etc..)
So I wan't to try to replace the micro USB connector.
The disassembly proces is not the problem, I have already replaced 3 LCM modules.. But I wan't to know how difficult it is to replace the connector.
They are sold on ebay for ~7 euros
Anybody already tried?
its doable
I am a former console chipper, so I know its possible, and pretty easy if the traces are not ripped off the board. just use a LOW wattage iron with a thin tip and thin solder so that it melts quick. also use flux. another thing that can help is to either use a strong double sided tape or epoxy to hold the usb connector in place BEFORE soldering the usb connector to the board to keep the problem from happening again.
mikeyman2171 said:
I am a former console chipper, so I know its possible, and pretty easy if the traces are not ripped off the board. just use a LOW wattage iron with a thin tip and thin solder so that it melts quick. also use flux. another thing that can help is to either use a strong double sided tape or epoxy to hold the usb connector in place BEFORE soldering the usb connector to the board to keep the problem from happening again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i was about to say the same thing, youre spot on there.
depending on the level of damage to solder pads and traces these should be quite repairable on most.
reinforcement with epoxy as suggested by mikeyman is an excellent idea.
anybody in the uk near the midlands with a bust usb port? id love to have a go at one of these as i have plenty of experience with console work, i do 0603 smd leds by hand with ease so sure i could do this.
Just broke mine... I have to lift the cable up for it to charge... Any one near watford who can fix?
mooooooa said:
Hello. The other day, I discovered that my HD2 had a loose connection on the micro USB entrance. When the cable was plugged in, the connection was only made when the cable was pushed upside.
So I got it for repair, but yesterday the workshop called and said it was my own fault, so they will only fix it for a prize of 540$. As a prove for saying it's my own fault, they send me this picture: http://app1.appserver.dk:8080/RepairPictures/servlet/getPic?id=51371.
They says that the pins from usb entrance is detached from the chip(motherboard), and that could only happen if I'd misused my HD2.
I declined the price offer for the repair, and they will ship my HD2 back.
My question is; Can I fix it myself? Maybe solder the pins to the chip? Is that possible? And how can I disassemble the HD2? Which tools do I need?
Please help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=986268&page=2
well maybe I should have taken some picture when I was repairing mine. These comment may not help much. The one showed in the picture will be super hard to fix. First of all, the 3 pads are gone and leaving 2 with a little bit remain. To at least charge the phone you need to rewire the 1st and 5th pin in order to charge. and I think one of the pin is useless but the middle pins are for data. trace the pin and bridge them with copper wire or extreme small wires. the pins are always connected to the caps near the port so try to trace around there. and don't dig the pads its no use. you will only dig the ground or (-) out of it.
Mogkupopppo said:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=986268&page=2
well maybe I should have taken some picture when I was repairing mine. These comment may not help much. The one showed in the picture will be super hard to fix. First of all, the 3 pads are gone and leaving 2 with a little bit remain. To at least charge the phone you need to rewire the 1st and 5th pin in order to charge. and I think one of the pin is useless but the middle pins are for data. trace the pin and bridge them with copper wire or extreme small wires. the pins are always connected to the caps near the port so try to trace around there. and don't dig the pads its no use. you will only dig the ground or (-) out of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My USB port is broken. The connector flexes and I can see that the part of the PCB that was soldered to the USB pins has stayed with the USB and broken away from the main PCB.
I can easily solder "flying leads" for pin 1 (+5V - seems to be a large "test pin" directly below) and pin 5 (GND - will solder to USB shell leg). This should restore charging via USB.
I am just unsure about where the data pins 2 and 3 should be soldered to. Do you know where you soldered them?
Thanks
Darren .)
broken usb port htc hd2
nutmegy said:
Just broke mine... I have to lift the cable up for it to charge... Any one near watford who can fix?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HI,
I have a broken micro usb port on my htc hd2 and wondered if you managed to get yours fixed.I know yours was damaged some time ago but I also live near Watford so wondered if there is a reasonable place that could fix it for me.
Thankyou,
Jeevesta
Mine just broke, as well. All of a sudden, I now have to tilt the cable up to get it to charge, and tethering does NOT work at all anymore. Anyone in the US have this problem? If so, did you get it repaired, and if so, how did you do it? I have no idea about the soldering and other stuff the earlier posts mentioned, and T-Mobile told me I just need to get another phone. Please help!
Sent from my NexusHD2 using xda premium
So I dont have the proper tools to do this but maybe someone else does.
The GPS dongle is the same connector as the keyboard dock, however due to the gps housing it does not physically fit. But with with the right torx screwdriver it seems possible that it may be able to be disassembled and tested to see if it will work if you were to plug it into the keyboard dock.
Any theories out there on if this will work or not?
I plan to get a torx screwdriver tomorrow to test this out unless someone else has already tried?
imadork8317 said:
So I dont have the proper tools to do this but maybe someone else does.
The GPS dongle is the same connector as the keyboard dock, however due to the gps housing it does not physically fit. But with with the right torx screwdriver it seems possible that it may be able to be disassembled and tested to see if it will work if you were to plug it into the keyboard dock.
Any theories out there on if this will work or not?
I plan to get a torx screwdriver tomorrow to test this out unless someone else has already tried?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It might... the only problem I can think of is that the dock connects its USB port to the tablet through this connector and I'm willing to be the GPS in the dongle does the same. I'm not sure what would happen if two devices connected to the USB port on the tablet at the same time...
someone has actually done this already and posted pix. BUT it doesnt work when its plugged into the dock 40 pin port. they are trying to pinpoint the reason as to why. could be possible the dock 40 pin is for power and charging tablet only. it may not have data connections pins in it. the other theory is that the gps dongle software is only pointed at the actual tablet 40 pin connector. so if you attach it to the dock, the prime recognizes. i was thinking maybe developers could modify or add another file path in the programming so dongle would work when plugged in either.
check out my gps dongle test thread. there are pix of it. my op pix exceeded bandwith and not showing up at the moment. but the person who originally posted up the opened dongle is in that thread. also person is in there who posted it wouldn't work on dock so far. Also check out Erusman gps and wifi thread. where he opened up his prime. i know they will be modding the dongle in there also.
demandarin said:
someone has actually done this already and posted pix. BUT it doesnt work when its plugged into the dock 40 pin port. they are trying to pinpoint the reason as to why. could be possible the dock 40 pin is for power and charging tablet only. it may not have data connections pins in it. the other theory is that the gps dongle software is only pointed at the actual tablet 40 pin connector. so if you attach it to the dock, the prime recognizes. i was thinking maybe developers could modify or add another file path in the programming so dongle would work when plugged in either.
check out my gps dongle test thread. there are pix of it. my op pix exceeded bandwith and not showing up at the moment. but the person who originally posted up the opened dongle is in that thread. also person is in there who posted it wouldn't work on dock so far. Also check out Erusman gps and wifi thread. where he opened up his prime. i know they will be modding the dongle in there also.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks demandarin, i will check those out.
I'm also working on this. Its kind of interesting.
demandarin said:
someone has actually done this already and posted pix. BUT it doesnt work when its plugged into the dock 40 pin port. they are trying to pinpoint the reason as to why. could be possible the dock 40 pin is for power and charging tablet only. it may not have data connections pins in it. the other theory is that the gps dongle software is only pointed at the actual tablet 40 pin connector. so if you attach it to the dock, the prime recognizes. i was thinking maybe developers could modify or add another file path in the programming so dongle would work when plugged in either.
check out my gps dongle test thread. there are pix of it. my op pix exceeded bandwith and not showing up at the moment. but the person who originally posted up the opened dongle is in that thread. also person is in there who posted it wouldn't work on dock so far. Also check out Erusman gps and wifi thread. where he opened up his prime. i know they will be modding the dongle in there also.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not true, it must have data connection pins in it. Connect your charger cable to the dock with the prime attached to it and then connect it to your pc. Works the same way as if you were to connect it directly to the prime. That's what I do to transfer new ROMs, pictures and whatnot without the need to disconnect the prime.
Coderedpl said:
Not true, it must have data connection pins in it. Connect your charger cable to the dock with the prime attached to it and then connect it to your pc. Works the same way as if you were to connect it directly to the prime. That's what I do to transfer new ROMs, pictures and whatnot without the need to disconnect the prime.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But power and data isn't going to account for all 40 pins is it? I still think that some pins are arranged differently between the Prime's port and the dock's. All the extra pins are going to be info for the keyboard and USB and everything. I doubt all the pins even make a connection on the dock's port because the dock isn't about to have a dock plugged into it. The dongle probably uses some of the same information pathways that the keyboard requires and doesn't even have in it's female port.
Coderedpl said:
Not true, it must have data connection pins in it. Connect your charger cable to the dock with the prime attached to it and then connect it to your pc. Works the same way as if you were to connect it directly to the prime. That's what I do to transfer new ROMs, pictures and whatnot without the need to disconnect the prime.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
who said it was true? those were all possible reasons as to why it didn't work that was thrown out there by other people. then that eliminates that reason. more than likely a software issue. the software probably only points to prime tablet connector port only. developers would have to take a look at it.
So i tore my GPS apart anyways just for fun, the actually device is fairly small, probably only a quarter of the size of the housing. I assumed they made it large enough so they can add the lock feature to make it more durable rather than small and could easily break. And as everyone else has already confirmed it does not communicate through the keyboard.
Where does the 40-pin connector travel while in the keyboard and what pins does the GPS unit use?
I've never found a pinout for the Transformer's 40 pin connector.
We know there are at least two sets of USB lines - one pair for the external devices (host) and one to make the Prime a peripheral for a PC (client).
TheWerewolf said:
I've never found a pinout for the Transformer's 40 pin connector.
We know there are at least two sets of USB lines - one pair for the external devices (host) and one to make the Prime a peripheral for a PC (client).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Somewhere I could have sworn I have some OG Transformer pinouts. I'll have to look around all my bookmarks, but I don't know if they'd actually be the same.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using XDA Premium HD via my tethered HTC Vision
This one?
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
From http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=19566215&postcount=35
No, but now I have that one too
Lol, the one I had was much less detailed http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=14937362
Would you like to see pictures of the gps dongle device itself?
I have also opened up the gps kit. I have several pictures of me measuring the pins with a volt/ohm meter. If you want I could upload them? Please give me a like, and I will
Also please see this picture of the inside of the 40-pin prime-dock-connector.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1114228&stc=1&d=1339111909
I guess that could be helpfull too.
Hello,
I have a 12V computer FAN and I want to install onto my PX5 to cool it. If I connect the fan to the yellow wire (12V) when I turn off the motor, will the fan also turn off? Is the unit only on when the engine is started?
Thank you!
Are fans necessary on the PX5? What brand are you running? I thought they were better these days?
Yellow is direct to Battery and always on.
Red is via ignition and only on when ignition s on.
RobRoy said:
Yellow is direct to Battery and always on.
Red is via ignition and only on when ignition s on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Finally I don't install the fan unit, temperature tests do not give better results.
I have another question about the connection of the power supply. I have problemas with keeping the memory of time. I have read this one: http://bbs.xtrons.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16
In the post they say to connect the long yellow wire to the battery, but will there be battery drain problems if the unit is connected always? Can I connect it to another 12V car connection?
thanks in advance!
txesterfield said:
Finally I don't install the fan unit, temperature tests do not give better results.
I have another question about the connection of the power supply. I have problemas with keeping the memory of time. I have read this one: http://bbs.xtrons.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16
In the post they say to connect the long yellow wire to the battery, but will there be battery drain problems if the unit is connected always? Can I connect it to another 12V car connection?
thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The quoted article explains connection. Battery drain is not an issue. If unsure, suggest seeking the advice of a reputable installer.
txesterfield said:
Finally I don't install the fan unit, temperature tests do not give better results.
I have another question about the connection of the power supply. I have problemas with keeping the memory of time. I have read this one: http://bbs.xtrons.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16
In the post they say to connect the long yellow wire to the battery, but will there be battery drain problems if the unit is connected always? Can I connect it to another 12V car connection?
thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not trying to sound cruel here, but if you're connecting the long yellow wire directly to the battery, why would it drain more than connecting it to another 12V line? You're aware of how electricity works right (or maybe not)? Perhaps you should read up on current draw, direct current etc. Connecting the yellow wire direct to the battery will make no difference. My only suggestion is, if you go via battery rather than another subsystem, you add an extra fuse. Unfused wires are dangerous.
The yellow wire provides power to the clock and the memory. Nothing more. If you want the memory to be written down to NAND, you can set this in factory settings. Not a bad little hack for those who don't fancy wiring in the yellow wire, but then you might find the deep sleep function is erratic. The clock will still be lost as well, so you'll need that to update either via NTP or GPS. I believe the power consumption is around 10mA. Your average low quality phone charger delivers 1Amp.
Wire it in, forget about it.
skezza said:
Not trying to sound cruel here, but if you're connecting the long yellow wire directly to the battery, why would it drain more than connecting it to another 12V line? You're aware of how electricity works right (or maybe not)? Perhaps you should read up on current draw, direct current etc. Connecting the yellow wire direct to the battery will make no difference. My only suggestion is, if you go via battery rather than another subsystem, you add an extra fuse. Unfused wires are dangerous.
The yellow wire provides power to the clock and the memory. Nothing more. If you want the memory to be written down to NAND, you can set this in factory settings. Not a bad little hack for those who don't fancy wiring in the yellow wire, but then you might find the deep sleep function is erratic. The clock will still be lost as well, so you'll need that to update either via NTP or GPS. I believe the power consumption is around 10mA. Your average low quality phone charger delivers 1Amp.
Wire it in, forget about it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was talking to connect the yellow wire to another 12V car connection to avoid carrying the cable to the battery that I have in the trunk. My only doubt was the consumption of the unit if I had it permanently connected, but that doubt has already been resolved. I will look for a pernament 12V near my head unit to connect it.
Thanks!
txesterfield said:
I was talking to connect the yellow wire to another 12V car connection to avoid carrying the cable to the battery that I have in the trunk. My only doubt was the consumption of the unit if I had it permanently connected, but that doubt has already been resolved. I will look for a pernament 12V near my head unit to connect it.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use your central locking fuse, tap in there. Job done.
Hi, so back to the point from the thread title.
Theres reason to keep lower temperature on any device with CPU as you can really extend lifetime and avoid trootling .
Specciali for Px5 (any) android headunit which is build into car dashboard wheres can easily be 60°C in hot summer day.
theres not only CPU whats heating, theres also mosfet amlifier which can dissipate 100W of heat.
Another point to consider is that if you using animated or 3D background it uses CPU and GPU pretty much and keep it hot.
So if someone interested theres small "How to"
I found old 80mm 24V fan which works pretty ok (i put drop of oil on bearing)
1. mark fan side holes holes, dril the hole and than mark main fan hole on the top part of headunit:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
2. cut the main hole (i used angle grinder + hand grinder) than i clean scorings with instant adhesive glue mixed with sawdust.
3. To prevent corosion I paint a sheet with black spray.
4. Solder 2 cables to 3pin socket and on mainboard to switched 12V/GND. (speed signal from fan is not used)
I used 12V from 78M09 9V voltage regulator and GND from capacitor beside.
As I have 24V fan - it runs pretty quiet on 12V as it is only 50% speed. If you use 12V fan, you can connect it to output of 78M09 (9V) to low down a speed.
5. Done
What kind of difference to the temps has it made? Great job btw. Very clean install.
Top!!!!
wizzsb said:
Hi, so back to the point from the thread title.
Theres reason to keep lower temperature on any device with CPU as you can really extend lifetime and avoid trootling .
Specciali for Px5 (any) android headunit which is build into car dashboard wheres can easily be 60°C in hot summer day.
theres not only CPU whats heating, theres also mosfet amlifier which can dissipate 100W of heat.
Another point to consider is that if you using animated or 3D background it uses CPU and GPU pretty much and keep it hot.
So if someone interested theres small "How to"
I found old 80mm 24V fan which works pretty ok (i put drop of oil on bearing)
1. mark fan side holes holes, dril the hole and than mark main fan hole on the top part of headunit:
2. cut the main hole (i used angle grinder + hand grinder) than i clean scorings with instant adhesive glue mixed with sawdust.
3. To prevent corosion I paint a sheet with black spray.
4. Solder 2 cables to 3pin socket and on mainboard to switched 12V/GND. (speed signal from fan is not used)
I used 12V from 78M09 9V voltage regulator and GND from capacitor beside.
As I have 24V fan - it runs pretty quiet on 12V as it is only 50% speed. If you use 12V fan, you can connect it to output of 78M09 (9V) to low down a speed.
5. Done
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be curious on your results but in reality you are either just pulling in or pushing out hot air constantly. You have no source of cool air so I don't see this doing much of anything for you unless you are pulling in cooler air from somewhere. Heat rises and all you're going to do it saturate the back side of the dash with hot air to the point there is no more cooler air at which time the temp will probably equalize and be no better.
Dave
TT_Vert said:
I'd be curious on your results but in reality you are either just pulling in or pushing out hot air constantly. You have no source of cool air so I don't see this doing much of anything for you unless you are pulling in cooler air from somewhere. Heat rises and all you're going to do it saturate the back side of the dash with hot air to the point there is no more cooler air at which time the temp will probably equalize and be no better.
Dave
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which app can I use for temperature measuring? ideally with graph possibility (so I can test playing video or so on...)
Theres ofcourse improvement if air inside is colder than CPU/Amplifier as theres much more heat transfer if air is mooving,
but if the temperature of air is nearly the same as CPU/Amp, than you are right, but for confirm that I can make a measurement with fan and without. Theres no more hot days in this period in Denmark, so reslts will be only for first case.
I don't know the best app to be honest. With that said if the air you are blowing over the cpu is same temp as air inside the unit it won't do much. I don't know how hot the air behind a dash can get in summer but my thought is if you have a fan pumping that hot air over the hot internals it will eventually saturate the under dash air and all air will be same temp (Or close to it) unless you have the air recycling under the dash which i don't think it really does much. I could be wrong though.
Dave
So after doing some before testing in my 70 deg. F garage I didn't see any need for a fan as I never got over 115F with volume at half. I did notice however my MTCB does seem to slow down on warmer days and In Illinois we have some 100deg days in summer so I decided to do something about it. I went a bit overkill as I was just using what I had. I have a 90mm fan that will be exhausting hot air. I intentionally put it over the CPU to try to draw air right from it. I had an old heatsink/fan from an old video card that was almost the perfect size. Drilled a few holes in it just to ensure I can unscrew the CPU at a later date if I ever need to as I'm gluing this thing to the CPU. Although I suppose if I'm taking it off it's a for a reason and I could just get a different heatsink/fan for the next one. I actually am using a 40MM 24V fan pulled from an old copier or something similar years ago powered by 12V and it is pushing more air than my 12V 40mm fan was. at same voltage so I went that route. TO avoid mix/matching fans I didn't put the 12V fan in as it doesn't move much air but I did drill a hole in case I decide to add one later PLUS I wanted to have enough area for intake air as that 90MM fan moved a TON of air. Probaby too much and it may be too loud but I'll address that when the time comes. Rather than feed from the harness I just probed the bottom of the board where the main plug is an and fed off of that on the PCU. Kapton taped and soldered so we should be all good there. The two fans draw 600mA max between the two but i'm not seeing that much current draw right now. Without further ado here is what I've got right now. Any opinions are welcomed. I plan to put plugs everywhere so I don't have to cut/unsolder if I ever disassemble this thing again.. I'm also going to put a few small heat sinks on a few of the other chips that get warm, particularly the two to the left of the CPU which may be the amp chips. Anyone have any idea which will get hottest during use? Thus far just those two to the right of the cpu get warm.
Dave
Dave
TT_Vert said:
So after doing some before testing in my 70 deg. F garage I didn't see any need for a fan as I never got over 115F with volume at half.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So which apk did you use for measuring of CPU temp?
or you using infra termometer?
using an IR thermometer. I've not found a program w/ accurate CPU temps. It jumps by 5C all the time up and down.
Dave
Cooling the PX5 CPU
Hi
I ordered this Aikenuo 25m x 20mm x 0.15mm Thermal Adhesive Tape,High performance Thermal Double Side Tapes Cooling Pad Apply to Heatsink
and that : StarTech.com 1U 60x10mm Socket 7/370 CPU Cooler Fan w/Copper Heatsink & TX3 -
Both are available worldwide on Amazon so try your local amazon. Price may differ though. Cheapest are UK and US
I put the tape under the copper heatsink and sticked the whole structure to the original PX5 motherboard heatsink.
Inside the beast:
I connected the fan's power to ground and accessory.
Temperature readings with CPUZ dropped a good 20° Celsius idling at 30° and rising to 60-65 at full load.
Idle :
Loaded with Youtube/Maps/Deezer and some other stuff :
Fix attachments please.
Can you explain where to connect fan on board?
blinkme2028 said:
Fix attachments please.
Can you explain where to connect fan on board?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not connected on the mainboard.
As you will see from second picture, I have connected the fan to an extension cable that runs out of the back of the HU through one of the empty holes then wired the cable to the acc and ground.
It's back in the car now so cannot make picture.
Ah also, you only have one shot with the tape, it is super uber mega sticky and cures with heat so try to position the copper radiator first before final sticking and aim well as it will be extremely hard to reposition and/or remove unless you unscrew the cpu board to avoid breaking the whole thing !
And do not forget to remove the metal cpu fixture from the heatsink which means you will need to unscrew the fan to get this metal thing out and screw the fan back