Hello,
I have a 12V computer FAN and I want to install onto my PX5 to cool it. If I connect the fan to the yellow wire (12V) when I turn off the motor, will the fan also turn off? Is the unit only on when the engine is started?
Thank you!
Are fans necessary on the PX5? What brand are you running? I thought they were better these days?
Yellow is direct to Battery and always on.
Red is via ignition and only on when ignition s on.
RobRoy said:
Yellow is direct to Battery and always on.
Red is via ignition and only on when ignition s on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Finally I don't install the fan unit, temperature tests do not give better results.
I have another question about the connection of the power supply. I have problemas with keeping the memory of time. I have read this one: http://bbs.xtrons.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16
In the post they say to connect the long yellow wire to the battery, but will there be battery drain problems if the unit is connected always? Can I connect it to another 12V car connection?
thanks in advance!
txesterfield said:
Finally I don't install the fan unit, temperature tests do not give better results.
I have another question about the connection of the power supply. I have problemas with keeping the memory of time. I have read this one: http://bbs.xtrons.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16
In the post they say to connect the long yellow wire to the battery, but will there be battery drain problems if the unit is connected always? Can I connect it to another 12V car connection?
thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The quoted article explains connection. Battery drain is not an issue. If unsure, suggest seeking the advice of a reputable installer.
txesterfield said:
Finally I don't install the fan unit, temperature tests do not give better results.
I have another question about the connection of the power supply. I have problemas with keeping the memory of time. I have read this one: http://bbs.xtrons.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16
In the post they say to connect the long yellow wire to the battery, but will there be battery drain problems if the unit is connected always? Can I connect it to another 12V car connection?
thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not trying to sound cruel here, but if you're connecting the long yellow wire directly to the battery, why would it drain more than connecting it to another 12V line? You're aware of how electricity works right (or maybe not)? Perhaps you should read up on current draw, direct current etc. Connecting the yellow wire direct to the battery will make no difference. My only suggestion is, if you go via battery rather than another subsystem, you add an extra fuse. Unfused wires are dangerous.
The yellow wire provides power to the clock and the memory. Nothing more. If you want the memory to be written down to NAND, you can set this in factory settings. Not a bad little hack for those who don't fancy wiring in the yellow wire, but then you might find the deep sleep function is erratic. The clock will still be lost as well, so you'll need that to update either via NTP or GPS. I believe the power consumption is around 10mA. Your average low quality phone charger delivers 1Amp.
Wire it in, forget about it.
skezza said:
Not trying to sound cruel here, but if you're connecting the long yellow wire directly to the battery, why would it drain more than connecting it to another 12V line? You're aware of how electricity works right (or maybe not)? Perhaps you should read up on current draw, direct current etc. Connecting the yellow wire direct to the battery will make no difference. My only suggestion is, if you go via battery rather than another subsystem, you add an extra fuse. Unfused wires are dangerous.
The yellow wire provides power to the clock and the memory. Nothing more. If you want the memory to be written down to NAND, you can set this in factory settings. Not a bad little hack for those who don't fancy wiring in the yellow wire, but then you might find the deep sleep function is erratic. The clock will still be lost as well, so you'll need that to update either via NTP or GPS. I believe the power consumption is around 10mA. Your average low quality phone charger delivers 1Amp.
Wire it in, forget about it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was talking to connect the yellow wire to another 12V car connection to avoid carrying the cable to the battery that I have in the trunk. My only doubt was the consumption of the unit if I had it permanently connected, but that doubt has already been resolved. I will look for a pernament 12V near my head unit to connect it.
Thanks!
txesterfield said:
I was talking to connect the yellow wire to another 12V car connection to avoid carrying the cable to the battery that I have in the trunk. My only doubt was the consumption of the unit if I had it permanently connected, but that doubt has already been resolved. I will look for a pernament 12V near my head unit to connect it.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use your central locking fuse, tap in there. Job done.
Hi, so back to the point from the thread title.
Theres reason to keep lower temperature on any device with CPU as you can really extend lifetime and avoid trootling .
Specciali for Px5 (any) android headunit which is build into car dashboard wheres can easily be 60°C in hot summer day.
theres not only CPU whats heating, theres also mosfet amlifier which can dissipate 100W of heat.
Another point to consider is that if you using animated or 3D background it uses CPU and GPU pretty much and keep it hot.
So if someone interested theres small "How to"
I found old 80mm 24V fan which works pretty ok (i put drop of oil on bearing)
1. mark fan side holes holes, dril the hole and than mark main fan hole on the top part of headunit:
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2. cut the main hole (i used angle grinder + hand grinder) than i clean scorings with instant adhesive glue mixed with sawdust.
3. To prevent corosion I paint a sheet with black spray.
4. Solder 2 cables to 3pin socket and on mainboard to switched 12V/GND. (speed signal from fan is not used)
I used 12V from 78M09 9V voltage regulator and GND from capacitor beside.
As I have 24V fan - it runs pretty quiet on 12V as it is only 50% speed. If you use 12V fan, you can connect it to output of 78M09 (9V) to low down a speed.
5. Done
What kind of difference to the temps has it made? Great job btw. Very clean install.
Top!!!!
wizzsb said:
Hi, so back to the point from the thread title.
Theres reason to keep lower temperature on any device with CPU as you can really extend lifetime and avoid trootling .
Specciali for Px5 (any) android headunit which is build into car dashboard wheres can easily be 60°C in hot summer day.
theres not only CPU whats heating, theres also mosfet amlifier which can dissipate 100W of heat.
Another point to consider is that if you using animated or 3D background it uses CPU and GPU pretty much and keep it hot.
So if someone interested theres small "How to"
I found old 80mm 24V fan which works pretty ok (i put drop of oil on bearing)
1. mark fan side holes holes, dril the hole and than mark main fan hole on the top part of headunit:
2. cut the main hole (i used angle grinder + hand grinder) than i clean scorings with instant adhesive glue mixed with sawdust.
3. To prevent corosion I paint a sheet with black spray.
4. Solder 2 cables to 3pin socket and on mainboard to switched 12V/GND. (speed signal from fan is not used)
I used 12V from 78M09 9V voltage regulator and GND from capacitor beside.
As I have 24V fan - it runs pretty quiet on 12V as it is only 50% speed. If you use 12V fan, you can connect it to output of 78M09 (9V) to low down a speed.
5. Done
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be curious on your results but in reality you are either just pulling in or pushing out hot air constantly. You have no source of cool air so I don't see this doing much of anything for you unless you are pulling in cooler air from somewhere. Heat rises and all you're going to do it saturate the back side of the dash with hot air to the point there is no more cooler air at which time the temp will probably equalize and be no better.
Dave
TT_Vert said:
I'd be curious on your results but in reality you are either just pulling in or pushing out hot air constantly. You have no source of cool air so I don't see this doing much of anything for you unless you are pulling in cooler air from somewhere. Heat rises and all you're going to do it saturate the back side of the dash with hot air to the point there is no more cooler air at which time the temp will probably equalize and be no better.
Dave
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which app can I use for temperature measuring? ideally with graph possibility (so I can test playing video or so on...)
Theres ofcourse improvement if air inside is colder than CPU/Amplifier as theres much more heat transfer if air is mooving,
but if the temperature of air is nearly the same as CPU/Amp, than you are right, but for confirm that I can make a measurement with fan and without. Theres no more hot days in this period in Denmark, so reslts will be only for first case.
I don't know the best app to be honest. With that said if the air you are blowing over the cpu is same temp as air inside the unit it won't do much. I don't know how hot the air behind a dash can get in summer but my thought is if you have a fan pumping that hot air over the hot internals it will eventually saturate the under dash air and all air will be same temp (Or close to it) unless you have the air recycling under the dash which i don't think it really does much. I could be wrong though.
Dave
So after doing some before testing in my 70 deg. F garage I didn't see any need for a fan as I never got over 115F with volume at half. I did notice however my MTCB does seem to slow down on warmer days and In Illinois we have some 100deg days in summer so I decided to do something about it. I went a bit overkill as I was just using what I had. I have a 90mm fan that will be exhausting hot air. I intentionally put it over the CPU to try to draw air right from it. I had an old heatsink/fan from an old video card that was almost the perfect size. Drilled a few holes in it just to ensure I can unscrew the CPU at a later date if I ever need to as I'm gluing this thing to the CPU. Although I suppose if I'm taking it off it's a for a reason and I could just get a different heatsink/fan for the next one. I actually am using a 40MM 24V fan pulled from an old copier or something similar years ago powered by 12V and it is pushing more air than my 12V 40mm fan was. at same voltage so I went that route. TO avoid mix/matching fans I didn't put the 12V fan in as it doesn't move much air but I did drill a hole in case I decide to add one later PLUS I wanted to have enough area for intake air as that 90MM fan moved a TON of air. Probaby too much and it may be too loud but I'll address that when the time comes. Rather than feed from the harness I just probed the bottom of the board where the main plug is an and fed off of that on the PCU. Kapton taped and soldered so we should be all good there. The two fans draw 600mA max between the two but i'm not seeing that much current draw right now. Without further ado here is what I've got right now. Any opinions are welcomed. I plan to put plugs everywhere so I don't have to cut/unsolder if I ever disassemble this thing again.. I'm also going to put a few small heat sinks on a few of the other chips that get warm, particularly the two to the left of the CPU which may be the amp chips. Anyone have any idea which will get hottest during use? Thus far just those two to the right of the cpu get warm.
Dave
Dave
TT_Vert said:
So after doing some before testing in my 70 deg. F garage I didn't see any need for a fan as I never got over 115F with volume at half.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So which apk did you use for measuring of CPU temp?
or you using infra termometer?
using an IR thermometer. I've not found a program w/ accurate CPU temps. It jumps by 5C all the time up and down.
Dave
Cooling the PX5 CPU
Hi
I ordered this Aikenuo 25m x 20mm x 0.15mm Thermal Adhesive Tape,High performance Thermal Double Side Tapes Cooling Pad Apply to Heatsink
and that : StarTech.com 1U 60x10mm Socket 7/370 CPU Cooler Fan w/Copper Heatsink & TX3 -
Both are available worldwide on Amazon so try your local amazon. Price may differ though. Cheapest are UK and US
I put the tape under the copper heatsink and sticked the whole structure to the original PX5 motherboard heatsink.
Inside the beast:
I connected the fan's power to ground and accessory.
Temperature readings with CPUZ dropped a good 20° Celsius idling at 30° and rising to 60-65 at full load.
Idle :
Loaded with Youtube/Maps/Deezer and some other stuff :
Fix attachments please.
Can you explain where to connect fan on board?
blinkme2028 said:
Fix attachments please.
Can you explain where to connect fan on board?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not connected on the mainboard.
As you will see from second picture, I have connected the fan to an extension cable that runs out of the back of the HU through one of the empty holes then wired the cable to the acc and ground.
It's back in the car now so cannot make picture.
Ah also, you only have one shot with the tape, it is super uber mega sticky and cures with heat so try to position the copper radiator first before final sticking and aim well as it will be extremely hard to reposition and/or remove unless you unscrew the cpu board to avoid breaking the whole thing !
And do not forget to remove the metal cpu fixture from the heatsink which means you will need to unscrew the fan to get this metal thing out and screw the fan back
Related
I just hope (pray is more like it) that Asus made the stupid USB proprietary charging cable longer than the ridiculously short one with the original Transformer. The goofy thing was like 3 feet long, could barely reach a tabletop or desktop from a wall outlet. And for anyone just getting a TF for the first time, note that you need USB 3.0 spec extension cables to extend the charging/sync cable that ships with the Transformer Prime; 2.0 would not charge since the pin-outs are different. My cheat? I uses a regular ac extension cord, and plugged the charging inverter (transformer?) into the regular ac extension cord, that way I could extend it as long as I liked, with no concern about leakage, signal loss etc...
Oh yeah! One BIG THING: I hope that the Prime does not have the quirk where the power supply, when oriented "right side up" (plugged in with the ASUS logo readable) has a grounding issue like the Transformer TF101 did. Anyone who had one might know what I mean. If you lightly touched the metallic sections when charging with the cable oriented one way, the thing had an electric "Buzz" running through it, like a fine vibration. Not dangerous to people, I would think, but when first noticed it I was seriously concerned. I did a bunch of research on it, and basically, if you flipped the charger around in outlet, it went away. All they had to do was make one blade of the plug wider, but perhaps grounding is different in some markets, so they weren't able to do that.
They had several revisions for it, but never fixed it, as far as I know, and I had one of the last serial numbers.
All I know is you take a reasonable durable electronic device, but one where there is no "Frame" or "Chassis" because they wanted it to be ultra slim, and what they do is solder components onto a board that IS the chassis. That, along with a nice strong piece of Corning Gorilla Glass, and you have a reasonably rigid, strong, yet extremely thin device. I think they outright stole the process from Apple's Mac Book Air, and did it first with the Zen Book (Another device I am lusting after, but a bit short on the cashola to be grabbing anytime soon, LOL!)
My concern, if you want to call it that, is that improperly grounding a "durable" but in other ways "sensitive" grouping of electronic components, so much so that the user can literally feel the stray voltage, can not be all that good for the components. I mean, it's not exactly ZAPPING you when you touch it,but it feels downright creepy.. and I do not like it. I think, f my new Asus does this as badly as my old one, I may give them a heard time about it. But I will not be shipping my unit in for inspection - No freaking way. If they want to reproduce it, they can just grab one of their own and work on it. Just don't stand in a puddle during testing, okay guys?
SmartAs$Phone said:
I just hope (pray is more like it) that Asus made the stupid USB proprietary charging cable longer than the ridiculously short one with the original Transformer. The goofy thing was like 3 feet long, could barely reach a tabletop or desktop from a wall outlet. And for anyone just getting a TF for the first time, note that you need USB 3.0 spec extension cables to extend the charging/sync cable that ships with the Transformer Prime; 2.0 would not charge since the pin-outs are different. My cheat? I uses a regular ac extension cord, and plugged the charging inverter (transformer?) into the regular ac extension cord, that way I could extend it as long as I liked, with no concern about leakage, signal loss etc...
Oh yeah! One BIG THING: I hope that the Prime does not have the quirk where the power supply, when oriented "right side up" (plugged in with the ASUS logo readable) has a grounding issue like the Transformer TF101 did. Anyone who had one might know what I mean. If you lightly touched the metallic sections when charging with the cable oriented one way, the thing had an electric "Buzz" running through it, like a fine vibration. Not dangerous to people, I would think, but when first noticed it I was seriously concerned. I did a bunch of research on it, and basically, if you flipped the charger around in outlet, it went away. All they had to do was make one blade of the plug wider, but perhaps grounding is different in some markets, so they weren't able to do that.
They had several revisions for it, but never fixed it, as far as I know, and I had one of the last serial numbers.
All I know is you take a reasonable durable electronic device, but one where there is no "Frame" or "Chassis" because they wanted it to be ultra slim, and what they do is solder components onto a board that IS the chassis. That, along with a nice strong piece of Corning Gorilla Glass, and you have a reasonably rigid, strong, yet extremely thin device. I think they outright stole the process from Apple's Mac Book Air, and did it first with the Zen Book (Another device I am lusting after, but a bit short on the cashola to be grabbing anytime soon, LOL!)
My concern, if you want to call it that, is that improperly grounding a "durable" but in other ways "sensitive" grouping of electronic components, so much so that the user can literally feel the stray voltage, can not be all that good for the components. I mean, it's not exactly ZAPPING you when you touch it,but it feels downright creepy.. and I do not like it. I think, f my new Asus does this as badly as my old one, I may give them a heard time about it. But I will not be shipping my unit in for inspection - No freaking way. If they want to reproduce it, they can just grab one of their own and work on it. Just don't stand in a puddle during testing, okay guys?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you''d think with the new product...with the safety of ground vs hot....they would have fixed it ..but NOOOO....i felt this "vibration thingy" last night and thought something was wrong. I know i have dirty power in my house...and it doesnt do it while plugged into the USB of my computer....
Glad to see this was an earlier issue and although i thought i moved to different sockets in the house..i cant honestly say i truly "tested" flipping the plug around. i'll try that when i get home.
ps. it's retarded that the only way to charge is via the plug. 12v. really? oh and charging my tablet yesterday after picking it up and opening at work revealed a dead tablet...the plug was super hot after charging for about 4 hours...
SmartAs$Phone said:
I just hope (pray is more like it) that Asus made the stupid USB proprietary charging cable longer than the ridiculously short one with the original Transformer. The goofy thing was like 3 feet long, could barely reach a tabletop or desktop from a wall outlet. And for anyone just getting a TF for the first time, note that you need USB 3.0 spec extension cables to extend the charging/sync cable that ships with the Transformer Prime; 2.0 would not charge since the pin-outs are different. My cheat? I uses a regular ac extension cord, and plugged the charging inverter (transformer?) into the regular ac extension cord, that way I could extend it as long as I liked, with no concern about leakage, signal loss etc...
Oh yeah! One BIG THING: I hope that the Prime does not have the quirk where the power supply, when oriented "right side up" (plugged in with the ASUS logo readable) has a grounding issue like the Transformer TF101 did. Anyone who had one might know what I mean. If you lightly touched the metallic sections when charging with the cable oriented one way, the thing had an electric "Buzz" running through it, like a fine vibration. Not dangerous to people, I would think, but when first noticed it I was seriously concerned. I did a bunch of research on it, and basically, if you flipped the charger around in outlet, it went away. All they had to do was make one blade of the plug wider, but perhaps grounding is different in some markets, so they weren't able to do that.
They had several revisions for it, but never fixed it, as far as I know, and I had one of the last serial numbers.
All I know is you take a reasonable durable electronic device, but one where there is no "Frame" or "Chassis" because they wanted it to be ultra slim, and what they do is solder components onto a board that IS the chassis. That, along with a nice strong piece of Corning Gorilla Glass, and you have a reasonably rigid, strong, yet extremely thin device. I think they outright stole the process from Apple's Mac Book Air, and did it first with the Zen Book (Another device I am lusting after, but a bit short on the cashola to be grabbing anytime soon, LOL!)
My concern, if you want to call it that, is that improperly grounding a "durable" but in other ways "sensitive" grouping of electronic components, so much so that the user can literally feel the stray voltage, can not be all that good for the components. I mean, it's not exactly ZAPPING you when you touch it,but it feels downright creepy.. and I do not like it. I think, f my new Asus does this as badly as my old one, I may give them a heard time about it. But I will not be shipping my unit in for inspection - No freaking way. If they want to reproduce it, they can just grab one of their own and work on it. Just don't stand in a puddle during testing, okay guys?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also have this with my HP laptop, which also has an aluminium shell. I think that is normal.
EDIT: My Desire Z (G2) also had this, pretty sure that is normal.
The Prime "buzz"
Mine definitely has the grounding issue / buzz. Inverting the plug alleviates the problem but you'd think design measures could be taken to eliminate the problem.
the tf201 charger is unchanged from the tf101. the replacement/spare asus sells is a single part # for both.
Hello,
I have Galaxy S-IV i9500 which has numerous sensors, which I am sure may be there in other high-end phones of the leading brands.
I usually play around with electronics (even though a total novice) and at times need to know the amount of current actually flowing through the wire, for example when we connect any power charger (laptop,mobile) to the device, then what is the actual current amperage the device is consuming and the charger is able to provide.
The multimeter (analog or digital) is able to measure the AC/DC voltage but not the current. For the current the technicians usually use a handheld clamp meter , which is hooked on to the wire and for a running device
Although i dont know much about the way a clamp meter is supposed to measure flowing current amperes , I assume it has to do with the circular magnetic field (flux) around the wire which is created in the direction of the current (thumbs law or something).
Looking at the Magnetic Flux sensor in S4, i have see that it responds to magentic flux created around charging objects. For example (using any sensor reading app) I can see that the magetic sensor reading fluctuates when the mobile is brought near to an active on object like a mobile or laptop charger. You can see and experiment yourself.
So just suggesting that can we make an app to use this sensor , get the magnetic field reading and maybe based on the priciples of a clamp meter can measure the amperes passing though any live wire. It doesnt have to be dead exact, a near estimate can suffice initially..
Was a wild thought by a long shot anyways, tell me to go smash my head and read about basic electronics first before giving stupid ideas.
Thanks for reading anyways.
In some cars, such as mine, when I start the engine, ACC power is cut to the HU. So, if I am sitting in the car with the HU on and engine off, when I then start the engine, power is briefly interrupted to the HU. Sometimes this can cause issues with Android. It can also restart the boot sequence if the HU hadn't fully booted. So I have been considering this mod...
dsa8310 said:
Since the ignition wire gives a very weak signal to the HU, using a diode and a capacitor at the ignition entry of the HU should prevent the reset without any Xposed based module.
It works for my mirror with compass.
(the diode has one end connected to the ignition wire; the capacitor has one end connected to ground; the other two ends are connected to the ignition entry of the HU - the red wire(?))
Just use a so called solid/polymer capacitor (not with liquid electrolyte!) which works below freezing temperatures - or otherwise rated up to -40 degrees Celsius.
Code:
HU IGN
IGN o-------i>|-------X------i]-------o GND
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dsa8310 said:
Any (Sillicium) diode would do, finding the appropriate capacitor value, only by testing. If it's too big, then the normal powering off is delayed objectionably, while if too small, it won't delay enough (to cover for those few seconds while the engine starter is working). You would also need a capacitor that still works at below freezing temperatures (solid, tantalum).
Just connect the diode between your ACC/IGN car (or CAN bus adapter) wire and the HU IGN entry, and the capacitor between the same HU entry and ground.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
clearchris said:
I reccommend against tantalum caps unless you really know what you are doing as tantalum caps failure mode is flames. :fingers-crossed:
Solid polymer organic caps, though harder to find, or low temp rated electrolytics (they exist) are what i would go with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dsa8310 said:
Read my lips:
Connect a diode (Si) between the car's ACC wire and the HU's ACC entry. If the HU does not start then reverse the diode.
Connect a capacitor between the HU's ACC entry and ground. Choose a capacitor able to function below freezing temperatures. If capacitance is too big, the HU will remain on too long after stopping the car engine. Conversely, if it's too small, the starter will reset the HU as before. Start with a 100uF capacitor and find the optimal value for your car.
If unhappy with this hardware solution, delve into the Xposed framework based software solutions (mtc... xposed... something).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
680uF & 1,000uF capacitors have been suggested.
But then I saw mention of some prebuilt timer PCBs and there were some links to listings on eBay USA. Has anyone got any links to tried and tested devices sold through UK based sellers that are relatively simple for a non-electronics expert to configure?
What are your exact problems with your HU?
I had the same issues with those cheap USB plugs for the cigarette lighter.
5V output is not stable during power on, the connected usb harddrive does a reset.
I took a look at the switched 12V supply. In my case when powering on the switched power supply is pulled down to 0V for about 2seconds.
That's nothing you can solve with a capacitor. Step 1 was to use a diode with resitor capacitor combination to switch a relay.
Step 2 was to use a different 5V supply which is stable down to 6V.
It's not a major problem. I just don't like power being interrupted when starting the engine. This can interrupt the boot process, causing a slight delay. It can also cause an error message when booted, some sort of system app / service doesn't like it. Also, I don't think it's good for device longevity having its power suddenly cut and reapplied in quick succession. So I wanna fit a capacitor to keep the ACC power live to the HU when starting the engine.
I'm looking at electrolytic capacitors on eBay and it seems like a mission getting a 12v capacitor. Would a 10v or 16v capacitor work? Which would be best?
CARRisma said:
I'm looking at electrolytic capacitors on eBay and it seems like a mission getting a 12v capacitor. Would a 10v or 16v capacitor work? Which would be best?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi CARRisma, just use a capacitor rated above 12v, 16v would be fine, keep in mind that xxV referes to the maximun volta. the capacitor can handle, the other value ( µF, F...) is the "charge" it can hold. Very important, if you use electrolytic capacitor pay attention to the polarity (- to GND and + to POSITIVE), otherwhise it could EXPLODE
A picture (video) is worth a thousand words
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KX5HIE7Ddk
I'm going to have to do this too. Every time I start my car w/ the unit already booted up it starts to shut down and it says exchange service has crashed or something similar. Are you just using one cap and without a diode? Could you tell me what you go with?
Dave
Yes, that's the problem I have, some sort of Google service crashes. I plan to use a diode too.
CARRisma said:
I'm looking at electrolytic capacitors on eBay and it seems like a mission getting a 12v capacitor. Would a 10v or 16v capacitor work? Which would be best?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't want a 12 v one - "12 volts" in a car is actually closer to 13.5 v. I'd get a 25 v one. You can use one which is rated for more voltage within reason (e.g. don't go for a 250 v one), it's just that as the voltage rating increases so does the size and cost.
so are you guys going to use a 1 Farad 16v cap? Unless my math is wrong but that is HUGE.
Dave
Pass, I haven't got that far yet and electronics isn't my strong point.
Or based on size constraints i'm thinking maybe wiring three 5.5V 1.5F in series to get me to about 16.5V .5F. That'd give me about a second and a half of capacity down to 10V. You guys think that'd be acceptable for this instance?
Maybe try one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PD65UGA
http://www.3rdbrakeflasher.com/timer-c-68/multifunctional-3v24v-time-delay-relay-timer-p-192.html
That will work for the times when I start the car right away but for the times the accessory is turned on then the car is started it wouldn't. I just need to retain 10-13Vdc for a few seconds while cranking voltage dips.
Dave
For packaging reasons I think I may go with this instead. Three of these will put me at 16.2V and 1.68F and I'd have ~5 seconds of runtime in a manageable package about 1.25" square. Problem is I have to buy 100 of these things although their 100qty is cheaper than most 5qty. Opinions?
Or maybe these as they're a bit cheaper and smaller
TT_Vert said:
That will work for the times when I start the car right away but for the times the accessory is turned on then the car is started it wouldn't. I just need to retain 10-13Vdc for a few seconds while cranking voltage dips.
Dave
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is that a response to the timing I posted? If so this timer is programmable so if you want it to smooth out a drop in acc it will do that. You simply set its delay longer that you expect the drop for the cranking. Obviously, you can also use it for longer delays if you want your unit to be powered for a period of time after you turn off the car. Both short and long delays will smooth out your issue.
I can't always predect the delay between acc on and crank to be honest. With that I just checked w/ my DVOM and the acc. goes dead on crank so that is my culprit, not so much a minor voltage drop but a complete drop.
The ignition wire is only a signal, power is drawn from a different wire. Maybe a couple of mA? So, a few mF might do.
You're right. I thought it was more than a signal. it is only drawing 1ma. Excellent, looks like a 35v 1000μF should do nicely.
TT_Vert said:
I can't always predect the delay between acc on and crank to be honest. With that I just checked w/ my DVOM and the acc. goes dead on crank so that is my culprit, not so much a minor voltage drop but a complete drop.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think perhaps you misunderstand how this works. If you configure the timer delay for 30 seconds it solves your problem. If you configure it for 10 seconds it probably solves your problem. You don't need to know specifically how long because if you set it at something like 30 and your cranking lasts 3 seconds it still works because the cut of acc triggers the timer and the power stays on for 30 seconds. 3 seconds later the power turns on and the timer stops because you have power again.
Thanks, I'll look further into this.
Dave
Went ahead and used a 470μF cap today w/ a 1A rectifier diode and it works great. W/O the diode i only got about 1/2 a second of capacity. with the diode I get over 7 seconds. It seems the HU will stay on when the acc. is all the way down to ~6.5v which surprised me.
Album
http://imgur.com/gallery/NIeGc
See it in action!
https://youtu.be/HTemLWr4lqI
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Lets use a MacBook Pro early 2008 for our little Samsung DeX laptop project.
Looks roomy inside. Lets make more!
Lots of space to play around with.
Now for the waiting period of this project. We need to find an LCD controller board for this particular monitor. ebay to the rescue!
LCD controller board and backlight inverter arrived. DHL Express used a private jet I think.
Now for the fun part, we need to make this keyboard and trackpad work via USB. Lets bring out our soldering iron.
The 4 wire USB cable will need to connect, Ground, 5V0, R2 and DP. Success, we now have a working keyboard with a USB connector.
Next up. Fitting some batteries. These batteries is of type lithium polymer and was from an old laptop. However they where already showing signs of decay. Better now use them in a closed enclosure...
So I purchased two Power banks of the same type, and crossed my fingers the production date of the batteries matched. And lo and behold, they did! Slap those bad boys in parallel. 20000mAh, and 74Wh, plenty for around 4-5 hours of screen time.
Time for the lcd controller board, screen buttons and inverter to be fitted. Looks OK, but final reversion is better.
Maybe they will fit this way. Nope lets try again. The black box is the C-FORCE CF003 by the way.
Now we are getting somewhere, this looks OK. Note that I had to desolder the DVI, VGA, DC power, Audio in and Audio out plug from the lcd controller board for the height to fit.
2x XL6009 Step-up Power Module DC-DC Converter fitted, one for 12v and the other for 5v for fans and charging the phone while plugged in. Also added the 1A 5V Micro USB TP4056 Lithium Battery Power Charger Board Module TE420 for charging the batteries. And what will become the external USB plug. The 12v DC-DC gets hot as f***, so we need to find a way to cool it. I am happy I used very thick wire, as the inverter needs 4amp.
To my luck the original MacBook fan fits perfectly to cool down the DC-DC converter. Its the gray one in the bottom right.
Lets put it all together and see if it fits. I reused the original power plug for turning on and off the screen from the power button on the MacBook keyboard.
Isn't it lovely? I also found a magnetic micro usb charger cable for the charge wire. Can hardly tell it apart from a real MacBook Pro.
Next project. I need to see if I can fit this USB to Ethernet from StarTech. Should be possible.
Album
http://imgur.com/gallery/NIeGc
See it in action!
https://youtu.be/HTemLWr4lqI
If anyone knows how to get the trackpad working in Android without root, let me know.
Apparently Apple doesn't follow proper HID standards. I'm hoping it will work in Android O
To say I'm jealous is an understatement, great work! I'm all out of thanks for the day but it would be great to see someone produce and sell these!
Skidoo03 said:
To say I'm jealous is an understatement, great work! I'm all out of thanks for the day but it would be great to see someone produce and sell these!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks.
There is the following already (Don't know if readily available):
Mirabook, https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/the-mirabook-turn-your-smartphone-into-a-laptop-mobile-android
Superbook, https://www.kickstarter.com/project...our-smartphone-into-a-laptop-f?ref=nav_search
But probably doesn't work with DeX.
kreal said:
Thanks.
There is the following already (Don't know if readily available):
Mirabook, https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/the-mirabook-turn-your-smartphone-into-a-laptop-mobile-android
Superbook, https://www.kickstarter.com/project...our-smartphone-into-a-laptop-f?ref=nav_search
But probably doesn't work with DeX.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What resolution is your screen?
very nice, working on something simular. mind telling me what charge controller you're using?
It is the best personal project I've seen here in this forum.
I am inspired by this work of awesomeness amazing job man! This is the cool DIY stuff I love seeing and the best part to me is it's a MacBook pro shell HAHAHA!! Classy!
kelvingamer said:
What resolution is your screen?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the specs it says, 1440 by 900 native resolution. But can easily run 1920x1080 with the new LCD driver board. No ill effects at all.
Armin1997 said:
very nice, working on something simular. mind telling me what charge controller you're using?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121521256825
However I de-soldered the DVI and VGA port and a few other things to make it fit.
Nice work!
You could probably shave off some more by using a smaller adapter, say, the 30$ MELOPOW M002 - which is considerably smaller than the C-Force one you're using.
I'm also planning something similar, but I'd use a dedicated QC2.0 compatible charging controller that supports pass-through charging (which I haven't been able to find so far), Type-C and is relatively cheap (say, a not too branded chinese power bank from AliExpress).
Awesome!
Hey man,
If you switched to an eDP board and screen, you'd get over 30 hours of battery life, no joke. That video board you have is from 2005, which is why it's so power hungry. I have the same board and an eDP board in mine. I have a 56Whr battery in mine and eDP and it lasts so long that I've never drained it, I always tend to plug it in before it's even at 25% life.
kreal said:
Album
http://imgur.com/gallery/NIeGc
See it in action!
https://youtu.be/HTemLWr4lqI
Lets use a MacBook Pro early 2008 for our little Samsung DeX laptop project.
Looks roomy inside. Lets make more!
Lots of to play around with.
Now for the waiting period of this project. We need to find an LCD controller board for this particular monitor. ebay to the rescue!
LCD controller board and backlight inverter arrived. DHL Express used a private jet I think.
Now for the fun part, we need to make this and trackpad work via USB. Lets bring out our soldering iron.
The 4 wire USB cable will need to connect, Ground, 5V0, R2 and DP. Success, we now have a working with a USB connector.
Next up. Fitting some batteries. These batteries is of type lithium polymer and was from an old laptop. However they where already showing signs of decay. Better now use them in a closed enclosure...
So I purchased two Power banks of the same type, and crossed my fingers the production date of the batteries matched. And lo and behold, they did! Slap those bad boys in parallel. 20000mAh, and 74Wh, plenty for around 4-5 hours of screen time.
Time for the lcd controller board, screen buttons and inverter to be fitted. Looks OK, but final reversion is better.
Maybe they will fit this way. Nope lets try again. The black box is the C- CF003 by the way.
Now we are getting somewhere, this looks OK. Note that I had to desolder the DVI, VGA, DC power, Audio in and Audio out plug from the lcd controller board for the height to fit.
2x XL6009 Step-up Power Module DC-DC Converter fitted, one for 12v and the other for 5v for fans and charging the phone while plugged in. Also added the 1A 5V Micro USB TP4056 Lithium Battery Power Charger Board Module TE420 for charging the batteries. And what will become the external USB plug. The 12v DC-DC gets hot as f***, so we need to find a way to cool it. I am happy I used very thick wire, as the inverter needs 4amp.
To my luck the original MacBook fan fits perfectly to cool down the DC-DC converter. Its the gray one in the bottom right.
Lets put it all together and see if it fits. I reused the original power plug for turning on and off the screen from the power button on the MacBook .
Isn't it lovely? I also found a magnetic micro usb charger cable for the charge wire. Can hardly tell it apart from a real MacBook Pro.
Next project. I need to see if I can fit this USB to Ethernet from StarTech. Should be possible.
Album
http://imgur.com/gallery/NIeGc
See it in action!
https://youtu.be/HTemLWr4lqI
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried something similar (OTG peripherals/WiFi display) a year or so ago, mixed up my power supplies for the display inverter and fried it. After burning a nice spot in my table I decided it wasn't really worth pursuing.
Great work though, very cool.
Where did you got that flat hdmi cable?
You can buy it on Amazon.
andjohn said:
Hey man,
If you switched to an eDP board and screen, you'd get over 30 hours of battery life, no joke. That video board you have is from 2005, which is why it's so power hungry. I have the same board and an eDP board in mine. I have a 56Whr battery in mine and eDP and it lasts so long that I've never drained it, I always tend to plug it in before it's even at 25% life.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool!
Care to name some parts, maybe even show off your build?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yh8m01oANfg
That's my prototype when I was making it a business.
Hi, that's an epic projet, when I saw the news of this project I was thinking "shoot, someone overshooted me" because I had the idea to do the same but for the Nintendo switch a month or so ago but didn't quite got the money to do that, and then I saw your amazing project and now I need your help (if you want to) to make the laptop keyboard a USB keyboard (I'm using an old Compaq 610 laptop) :fingers-crossed:
Silails said:
Hi, that's an epic projet, when I saw the news of this project I was thinking "shoot, someone overshooted me" because I had the idea to do the same but for the Nintendo switch a month or so ago but didn't quite got the money to do that, and then I saw your amazing project and now I need your help (if you want to) to make the laptop keyboard a USB keyboard (I'm using an old Compaq 610 laptop) :fingers-crossed:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most older laptops use onboard controllers for the touchpad and the keyboard (but at least for the keyboard). This is a problem especially if you want to convert it into a USB keyboard, because without the controller, the keyboard itself is nothing more but a 8x18 diode matrix with a 25-pin connector. And since most manufacturers wire their keyboards differently, if it isn't a well researched model, especially if it's a model where the controller is ON the motherboard and not separate, you'll be out of luck (unless you know how to write your own firmware for the USB HID device for a compatible microcontroller like a Teensy).
However there are tons of very small keyboards that more or less fit a generic laptop keyboard's size on AliExpress that are by default USB, and need only some minor changes to fit into your case.
There are also some laptops that have the keyboard and touchpad hooked up together with a controller, and the whole shebang connects to an internal USB header. With those laptops, the controller often has exposed pads or pins for the VCC, GND, RX and TX lanes that you can solder onto, essentially making a full USB keyboard.
fonix232 said:
Most older laptops use onboard controllers for the touchpad and the keyboard (but at least for the keyboard). This is a problem especially if you want to convert it into a USB keyboard, because without the controller, the keyboard itself is nothing more but a 8x18 diode matrix with a 25-pin connector. And since most manufacturers wire their keyboards differently, if it isn't a well researched model, especially if it's a model where the controller is ON the motherboard and not separate, you'll be out of luck (unless you know how to write your own firmware for the USB HID device for a compatible microcontroller like a Teensy).
However there are tons of very small keyboards that more or less fit a generic laptop keyboard's size on AliExpress that are by default USB, and need only some minor changes to fit into your case.
There are also some laptops that have the keyboard and touchpad hooked up together with a controller, and the whole shebang connects to an internal USB header. With those laptops, the controller often has exposed pads or pins for the VCC, GND, RX and TX lanes that you can solder onto, essentially making a full USB keyboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the answer, I figured that out by searching on Internet but I had hope for a solution :s (forums were old) but I think I shold find a workaround with a small keyboard, thanks for the tips ^^
I have two Mi Boxes. Both have lousy WiFi reception. I finally decided to open one up and see if I could re-position the antenna or replace it. To my surprise, there was no antenna. I opened my other Mi Box and it didn't have an antenna either. There is a little plug for the antenna, but the antenna itself is missing.
The antenna plug is the same one found in most laptops and WiFi cards, variously called an IPX, IPEX, or U.FL plug. You can buy antennas with this plug on ebay or Amazon for about $2. They come as little flags you can stick down or little pcb boards which can have 5dbi or more gain.
I got a couple of 8dbi gain pcb antennas. The can be positioned inside the Mi Box case, but I drilled a small hole and ran them outside where they are clear of the electronics and big steel heatsink and can be aimed at the router. No soldering, just open the Mi Box, take out the four screws that hold the motherboard. Slowly pull off the motherboard which is stuck to the heatsink, and then plug in the antenna. Simple.
My WiFi download speed has almost tripled from less than 10mbs to almost 30mbs. I get 20mbs even through my VPN. I now can stream 1080 HD movies on Netflix without stuttering or buffering.
Spend $2 and 15 minutes work and you won't hate your Mi Box anymore.
Make sure the antenna will do 5ghz
I almost forgot, make sure you get an antenna that will work for both 2.4ghz and 5ghz.
Sound intressting ... maybe you upload a photo of the antenna ? wich type ?
Thanks in advance Dr Vega
Greetings Phil from Belgium
Pilsor said:
Sound intressting ... maybe you upload a photo of the antenna ? wich type ?
Thanks in advance Dr Vega
Greetings Phil from Belgium
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Thanks for opening this up man!! Trying to make this thing last a bit longer, this will help. We will also have Oreo anyday now as more screen shots are being posted.
Could you show me the way to open the case, does it need heating or something else?
Opening the Mi Box case
hhai93 said:
Could you show me the way to open the case, does it need heating or something else?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, it can be tough to open. There're no screws or anything, just the clips all around the edge. I started with a sharp knife to open a crack and then slid in a credit card and ran that around the edge to release the clips. One of those plastic thingies to open cell phones works even better than a credit card.
dr_vega said:
Yeah, it can be tough to open. There're no screws or anything, just the clips all around the edge. I started with a sharp knife to open a crack and then slid in a credit card and ran that around the edge to release the clips. One of those plastic thingies to open cell phones works even better than a credit card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Link the the antenna that you've bought please? I searched on ebay but there are many kinds of ipex connector
hhai93 said:
Link the the antenna that you've bought please? I searched on ebay but there are many kinds of ipex connector
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Something like this should work.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-4G-5G-5-...862018?hash=item3d60e89bc2:g:Zc8AAOSwAXZa2AJD
dr_vega said:
Something like this should work.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-4G-5G-5-...862018?hash=item3d60e89bc2:g:Zc8AAOSwAXZa2AJD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you! Just bought one, will be arrived at the end of May :fingers-crossed:
dr_vega said:
I have two Mi Boxes. Both have lousy WiFi reception. I finally decided to open one up and see if I could re-position the antenna or replace it. To my surprise, there was no antenna. I opened my other Mi Box and it didn't have an antenna either. There is a little plug for the antenna, but the antenna itself is missing.
The antenna plug is the same one found in most laptops and WiFi cards, variously called an IPX, IPEX, or U.FL plug. You can buy antennas with this plug on ebay or Amazon for about $2. They come as little flags you can stick down or little pcb boards which can have 5dbi or more gain.
I got a couple of 8dbi gain pcb antennas. The can be positioned inside the Mi Box case, but I drilled a small hole and ran them outside where they are clear of the electronics and big steel heatsink and can be aimed at the router. No soldering, just open the Mi Box, take out the four screws that hold the motherboard. Slowly pull off the motherboard which is stuck to the heatsink, and then plug in the antenna. Simple.
My WiFi download speed has almost tripled from less than 10mbs to almost 30mbs. I get 20mbs even through my VPN. I now can stream 1080 HD movies on Netflix without stuttering or buffering.
Spend $2 and 15 minutes work and you won't hate your Mi Box anymore.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi.
I have two MiBox and the connector is not the standard that is used for antennas. It is a Hirose MS-156C, usually used as a test point, so it is not possible to connect antennas with an IPEX connector.
Can you detail how you did it?
Thank you.
diruix said:
Hi.
I have two MiBox and the connector is not the standard that is used for antennas. It is a Hirose MS-156C, usually used as a test point, so it is not possible to connect antennas with an IPEX connector.
Can you detail how you did it?
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That may be true, but IPEX worked for me. I bought a couple of the antennas in the picture. One was hard to press onto the connector and I used a needle nose pliers to apply pressure. The other one snapped on with just fingers.
diruix said:
Hi.
I have two MiBox and the connector is not the standard that is used for antennas. It is a Hirose MS-156C, usually used as a test point, so it is not possible to connect antennas with an IPEX connector.
Can you detail how you did it?
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I confirm that the Ipex connector is compatible.
I tried to insert the antenna into the connector for 5 minutes pressing it with my fingers, but then I decided to use a screwdriver handle for this, I pushed harder, and I was able to connect the antenna.
Toliyn said:
I confirm that the Ipex connector is compatible.
I tried to insert the antenna into the connector for 5 minutes pressing it with my fingers, but then I decided to use a screwdriver handle for this, I pushed harder, and I was able to connect the antenna.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The most important question is "After you forced the connection, did you see a performance increase?" Hopefully, something more than placebo...
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Mr.BungIe said:
The most important question is "After you forced the connection, did you see a performance increase?" Hopefully, something more than placebo...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To begin with, I was unpleasantly surprised with the reception quality of the mi box.
I have a noname Chinese tv box with which there are enough problems, but none of them related with receiving a wi-fi signal.
When I turned on mi box for the first time without an external antenna connected, the device was able to connect to wi-fi and start downloading updates, but the online video playback and TV playback over ott playlist did not work. I even rebooted the mi box several times to make sure that the problem is not related with the updates.
Then I put the antenna all worked as expected.
So I think so. There is a noticeable difference when using an external antenna.
isn't there any android tool that mesure the wifi strength signal ?
If yes it would be nice to have some results before/after
but of course your feedback is very nice.
I had too issues, i fixed them by moving my wifi extender (my wifi router is at 1st floor and on the roof i have an extender to make sure that I have enought signal at both floor. but as the mibox whas having difficulties I moved the extender from one room to very close to the mibox) and since them streaming 1080p video is no more any issue.
But of course installing an antenna would be nice ... or maybe an ethernet usb hub ....
Indeed I may start looking at 4k movies end of the year, and plan to use the mibox (hoping that it will have enougth power)
Did anyone ever confirm if this is an antenna port or not
I just tested this out myself using the same aerial linked earlier, and I found it made no difference to signal strength or throughput. This was determined using the IP tools app and some file transfers.
In fact even though the connector seemed to be a good fit, I found that the middle pin wasn't actually making any contact. I verified this using one of the solder pads next to the connector which has a direct connection to the middle pin socket on the PCB.
I figured this may be why I saw no difference in signal so I cut the plug off the aerial and soldered the wires directly to the mibox and made sure the connections were good, and guess what - still no difference.
As I don't have anything to probe that connector with to see exactly what if anything is coming out I can't verify what it is supposed to do. But I wouldn't waste your time trying to connect an aerial to it.
Lemonato said:
I just tested this out myself using the same aerial linked earlier, and I found it made no difference to signal strength or throughput. This was determined using the IP tools app and some file transfers.
In fact even though the connector seemed to be a good fit, I found that the middle pin wasn't actually making any contact. I verified this using one of the solder pads next to the connector which has a direct connection to the middle pin socket on the PCB.
I figured this may be why I saw no difference in signal so I cut the plug off the aerial and soldered the wires directly to the mibox and made sure the connections were good, and guess what - still no difference.
As I don't have anything to probe that connector with to see exactly what if anything is coming out I can't verify what it is supposed to do. But I wouldn't waste your time trying to connect an aerial to it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did it too and "Lemonato" is right, there is no change on the wifi reception.
** sorry... don't know why the pics is not showing
anyone tried using this mod?
https://youtu.be/Nk-nj_BwoBE?t=5m30s