In some cars, such as mine, when I start the engine, ACC power is cut to the HU. So, if I am sitting in the car with the HU on and engine off, when I then start the engine, power is briefly interrupted to the HU. Sometimes this can cause issues with Android. It can also restart the boot sequence if the HU hadn't fully booted. So I have been considering this mod...
dsa8310 said:
Since the ignition wire gives a very weak signal to the HU, using a diode and a capacitor at the ignition entry of the HU should prevent the reset without any Xposed based module.
It works for my mirror with compass.
(the diode has one end connected to the ignition wire; the capacitor has one end connected to ground; the other two ends are connected to the ignition entry of the HU - the red wire(?))
Just use a so called solid/polymer capacitor (not with liquid electrolyte!) which works below freezing temperatures - or otherwise rated up to -40 degrees Celsius.
Code:
HU IGN
IGN o-------i>|-------X------i]-------o GND
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dsa8310 said:
Any (Sillicium) diode would do, finding the appropriate capacitor value, only by testing. If it's too big, then the normal powering off is delayed objectionably, while if too small, it won't delay enough (to cover for those few seconds while the engine starter is working). You would also need a capacitor that still works at below freezing temperatures (solid, tantalum).
Just connect the diode between your ACC/IGN car (or CAN bus adapter) wire and the HU IGN entry, and the capacitor between the same HU entry and ground.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
clearchris said:
I reccommend against tantalum caps unless you really know what you are doing as tantalum caps failure mode is flames. :fingers-crossed:
Solid polymer organic caps, though harder to find, or low temp rated electrolytics (they exist) are what i would go with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dsa8310 said:
Read my lips:
Connect a diode (Si) between the car's ACC wire and the HU's ACC entry. If the HU does not start then reverse the diode.
Connect a capacitor between the HU's ACC entry and ground. Choose a capacitor able to function below freezing temperatures. If capacitance is too big, the HU will remain on too long after stopping the car engine. Conversely, if it's too small, the starter will reset the HU as before. Start with a 100uF capacitor and find the optimal value for your car.
If unhappy with this hardware solution, delve into the Xposed framework based software solutions (mtc... xposed... something).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
680uF & 1,000uF capacitors have been suggested.
But then I saw mention of some prebuilt timer PCBs and there were some links to listings on eBay USA. Has anyone got any links to tried and tested devices sold through UK based sellers that are relatively simple for a non-electronics expert to configure?
What are your exact problems with your HU?
I had the same issues with those cheap USB plugs for the cigarette lighter.
5V output is not stable during power on, the connected usb harddrive does a reset.
I took a look at the switched 12V supply. In my case when powering on the switched power supply is pulled down to 0V for about 2seconds.
That's nothing you can solve with a capacitor. Step 1 was to use a diode with resitor capacitor combination to switch a relay.
Step 2 was to use a different 5V supply which is stable down to 6V.
It's not a major problem. I just don't like power being interrupted when starting the engine. This can interrupt the boot process, causing a slight delay. It can also cause an error message when booted, some sort of system app / service doesn't like it. Also, I don't think it's good for device longevity having its power suddenly cut and reapplied in quick succession. So I wanna fit a capacitor to keep the ACC power live to the HU when starting the engine.
I'm looking at electrolytic capacitors on eBay and it seems like a mission getting a 12v capacitor. Would a 10v or 16v capacitor work? Which would be best?
CARRisma said:
I'm looking at electrolytic capacitors on eBay and it seems like a mission getting a 12v capacitor. Would a 10v or 16v capacitor work? Which would be best?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi CARRisma, just use a capacitor rated above 12v, 16v would be fine, keep in mind that xxV referes to the maximun volta. the capacitor can handle, the other value ( µF, F...) is the "charge" it can hold. Very important, if you use electrolytic capacitor pay attention to the polarity (- to GND and + to POSITIVE), otherwhise it could EXPLODE
A picture (video) is worth a thousand words
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KX5HIE7Ddk
I'm going to have to do this too. Every time I start my car w/ the unit already booted up it starts to shut down and it says exchange service has crashed or something similar. Are you just using one cap and without a diode? Could you tell me what you go with?
Dave
Yes, that's the problem I have, some sort of Google service crashes. I plan to use a diode too.
CARRisma said:
I'm looking at electrolytic capacitors on eBay and it seems like a mission getting a 12v capacitor. Would a 10v or 16v capacitor work? Which would be best?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't want a 12 v one - "12 volts" in a car is actually closer to 13.5 v. I'd get a 25 v one. You can use one which is rated for more voltage within reason (e.g. don't go for a 250 v one), it's just that as the voltage rating increases so does the size and cost.
so are you guys going to use a 1 Farad 16v cap? Unless my math is wrong but that is HUGE.
Dave
Pass, I haven't got that far yet and electronics isn't my strong point.
Or based on size constraints i'm thinking maybe wiring three 5.5V 1.5F in series to get me to about 16.5V .5F. That'd give me about a second and a half of capacity down to 10V. You guys think that'd be acceptable for this instance?
Maybe try one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PD65UGA
http://www.3rdbrakeflasher.com/timer-c-68/multifunctional-3v24v-time-delay-relay-timer-p-192.html
That will work for the times when I start the car right away but for the times the accessory is turned on then the car is started it wouldn't. I just need to retain 10-13Vdc for a few seconds while cranking voltage dips.
Dave
For packaging reasons I think I may go with this instead. Three of these will put me at 16.2V and 1.68F and I'd have ~5 seconds of runtime in a manageable package about 1.25" square. Problem is I have to buy 100 of these things although their 100qty is cheaper than most 5qty. Opinions?
Or maybe these as they're a bit cheaper and smaller
TT_Vert said:
That will work for the times when I start the car right away but for the times the accessory is turned on then the car is started it wouldn't. I just need to retain 10-13Vdc for a few seconds while cranking voltage dips.
Dave
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is that a response to the timing I posted? If so this timer is programmable so if you want it to smooth out a drop in acc it will do that. You simply set its delay longer that you expect the drop for the cranking. Obviously, you can also use it for longer delays if you want your unit to be powered for a period of time after you turn off the car. Both short and long delays will smooth out your issue.
I can't always predect the delay between acc on and crank to be honest. With that I just checked w/ my DVOM and the acc. goes dead on crank so that is my culprit, not so much a minor voltage drop but a complete drop.
The ignition wire is only a signal, power is drawn from a different wire. Maybe a couple of mA? So, a few mF might do.
You're right. I thought it was more than a signal. it is only drawing 1ma. Excellent, looks like a 35v 1000μF should do nicely.
TT_Vert said:
I can't always predect the delay between acc on and crank to be honest. With that I just checked w/ my DVOM and the acc. goes dead on crank so that is my culprit, not so much a minor voltage drop but a complete drop.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think perhaps you misunderstand how this works. If you configure the timer delay for 30 seconds it solves your problem. If you configure it for 10 seconds it probably solves your problem. You don't need to know specifically how long because if you set it at something like 30 and your cranking lasts 3 seconds it still works because the cut of acc triggers the timer and the power stays on for 30 seconds. 3 seconds later the power turns on and the timer stops because you have power again.
Thanks, I'll look further into this.
Dave
Went ahead and used a 470μF cap today w/ a 1A rectifier diode and it works great. W/O the diode i only got about 1/2 a second of capacity. with the diode I get over 7 seconds. It seems the HU will stay on when the acc. is all the way down to ~6.5v which surprised me.
Related
Hello people!
I have a HTC EVO 3D GSM (signature for specifics, for what it's worth - I doubt it matters for the thing I'm about to explain, anyway).
I know this post is very long, but please allow 5-10 minutes of your time to go through this.
Charger : original HTC charger (1A output).
Cables : two BlackBerry microUSB cables, one is 2 inches shorter than the other. The HTC one broke after two weeks of usage, these BlackBerry ones stand up for the fight even after 6 months of abusing.
Extension cord : HAMA. USB 2.0, maximum speed 480 Mbit/s (that's what it says on the box). "Additional shielding for a good reduction of electromagnetic interference" -> so it's not double shielded (in case that matters at all). It's gray (for what it's worth). 1.8 meters long.
Battery Monitor Widget (BMW) may not show power consumption accurate while deep sleep, but it works fine when the phone is used and, THANK GOD, when CHARGING. So, with that app, I monitored the input current...
So... here's my little personal test.
Battery was at ~81%, so the input current wasn't varying because of the battery level, but because of the (****ty) cable(s). Throughout the test, the battery level got up a bit, but I tried to keep it steady at ~81-82 at the beginning of each test.
CPU @ 192 MHz - 1.51 GHz, Interactive governor. No undervolting, so the table ranges from 800mV (192 MHz) to 1175mV (1.51 GHz). Nothing changes, anyway, even if I undervolt it -75mV, so the voltage has nothing to do with it (maybe during * tests, it could mean a difference of a few miliamps, but it's not a viable solution).
Charging tests # - Wi-Fi off, Data off, Screen on Auto, off until I wake it and check the current with BMW.
Charging #1 : just with the BlackBerry cable, no extension cord. 1 minute after plug in : +800mA. 2 minutes after that : +789mA. It went up to 82%, so I discharged it to 81% and carried on with the next test.
Charging #2 : BlackBerry cable + the HAMA extension cord. 1 minute after plug in : +489mA. 2 minutes after that : +485mA. Notice that the input current was almost sliced in half.
Charging tests * - Wi-Fi on (signal ~80%), Data off, Screen on lowest brightness. Playing Star Legends (basically, it's opened, I'm not touching anything, any graphics that are going on there are hardly intense, nothing GPU-hunry is going on, so it's just sitting there). Media volume = 1.
Charging *1 : just with the BlackBerry cable, no extension cord. 1 minute after plug in : +413mA. 2 minutes after that : +471mA.
I couldn't resist and entered a PvP, so intense graphics were somewhat there, also touch points and all that... The current input was around +312mA.
Charging *1 : BlackBerry cable + the HAMA extension cord. 1 minute after plug in : -11mA. Notice it's discharging, but at a slow rate. 2 minutes after that : +31mA. So it started to actually draw some current from the charger, so I let it that way for another 2 minutes, and it's got to -5mA again. So definetly no charging here .
Normally, without charging, the consumption would be of about -513mA... -622mA... Same conditions : Wi-Fi on (~80% signal), Media volume on 1, lowest screen brightness, player just sitting there (in Star Legends).
I did tests with Asphalt 6 (no Wi-Fi, no active Internet connection), too. Same consumption... Same sh*t... I was thinking the Internet connection is what kills the incoming current the most (it turns out it hardly is).
So... Has anyone ever experienced something similar?! I really need an extension cord, lol.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I was wondering if a more powerful charger would solve this, but after reading THIS, I think there are hardly any chances...
I had another HAMA extension cord before. White, with double shielding, same lenght (1.8 meters)... Same current readings... I brought that one back to the store to get my $7 back, and here I am, 1 week later, having another one, in hope that the previous one was broken and this one is not. Haha...
So it's not the cord itself (bad company, lol), but the fact that there just is another connection the current has to go through...?!
I wonder too if part of the issue is using non-OEM cables, as that seems to cause problems sometimes for people in various ways, including not being able to do USB transfers.
.
Thread moved to Q&A due to it being a question. Would advise you to read forum rules and post in correct section.
Failure to comply with forum rules will result in an infraction and/or ban depending on severity of rule break.
orb3000 said:
Thread moved to Q&A due to it being a question. Would advise you to read forum rules and post in correct section.
Failure to comply with forum rules will result in an infraction and/or ban depending on severity of rule break.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks but... This isn't an EVO 3D-related issue only... It's a widespread thing, I believe. That's why I posted it in a section where more people would see it... Otherwise I would have created the thread here directly...
Sent from my LeeDrOiD-loaded 3VO
Now that this thread is no longer in the intended section... It's useless. Thanks.
Please lock it.
It's very clear the problem is your USB extension cable. Those are known to have problems passing current AND data. My work computer has a 3 foot usb extension cable so I can plug a flash drive in without crawling under my desk. It works fine with flash drives, but will not power my small hard drive that only takes 400ma of current to run.
Someone said...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=23363540&postcount=2
and
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=23365425&postcount=4
Is this true?! I tend to deny, since... http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=23372784&postcount=5
usb 2.0 significantly looses power after 6 feet if you want what you are doing to work then buy a powered extender problem solved
Make sure your using a heavy extension cord i use a 6ft 12 gague cord with no problem. Charges 700-900 ma all day with htc cable.
Sent from my PG86100 using xda premium
rontonomo said:
usb 2.0 significantly looses power after 6 feet if you want what you are doing to work then buy a powered extender problem solved.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Guess I'll have to look after those. Thought HAMA would do... They're advertising it to be "that" good on the box... I'll return the little box, get my $5 back...
Thank you for your responses!
--
gunfromsako said:
Make sure your using a heavy extension cord i use a 6ft 12 gague cord with no problem. Charges 700-900 ma all day with htc cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I assume you meant 6ft 12 gauge, not gague. The one I found (see link below) has a gauge of 24 AWG power line (guess that's good? ).
What do you say about THIS one? (Just ignore all the Romanian texts, there's English too ).
Hey, guys... Could you please tell me your opinion about this USB cable? By the specs, it looks good...
USB 3.0 works with 2.0, so that wouldn't be a problem, I guess...
Hello,
I have Galaxy S-IV i9500 which has numerous sensors, which I am sure may be there in other high-end phones of the leading brands.
I usually play around with electronics (even though a total novice) and at times need to know the amount of current actually flowing through the wire, for example when we connect any power charger (laptop,mobile) to the device, then what is the actual current amperage the device is consuming and the charger is able to provide.
The multimeter (analog or digital) is able to measure the AC/DC voltage but not the current. For the current the technicians usually use a handheld clamp meter , which is hooked on to the wire and for a running device
Although i dont know much about the way a clamp meter is supposed to measure flowing current amperes , I assume it has to do with the circular magnetic field (flux) around the wire which is created in the direction of the current (thumbs law or something).
Looking at the Magnetic Flux sensor in S4, i have see that it responds to magentic flux created around charging objects. For example (using any sensor reading app) I can see that the magetic sensor reading fluctuates when the mobile is brought near to an active on object like a mobile or laptop charger. You can see and experiment yourself.
So just suggesting that can we make an app to use this sensor , get the magnetic field reading and maybe based on the priciples of a clamp meter can measure the amperes passing though any live wire. It doesnt have to be dead exact, a near estimate can suffice initially..
Was a wild thought by a long shot anyways, tell me to go smash my head and read about basic electronics first before giving stupid ideas.
Thanks for reading anyways.
The can bus unit I have is for Ford Explorer and is being used in my 2005 Ford Freestyle with a Pumpkin 6.95" (7") Kit Kat DVD etc etc unit.
Bought around late Oct or November to replace a Cheap Walmart DUAL display that I bought for the car. I did add the can bus to that unit as well.
What has happen that this week, the radio would never shut down when key was removed and door opened. It would stay on with a display.
I have used Custom roms from all developers and updated the MCU to latest. So I thought yup, something bad with software, but that was proven to be wrong.
I contacted Pumpkin support and they said to test it by cutting the red wire (ACC) and connect to the car lighter. That is the understanding that the car lighter goes off. Mine does not, stays powered up.
But since I work as R&D and been in electronics for well over 55 years, I decided to look into the decoder.
1. It has a 16 pin plug with only 8 being used. Of the 8, take 2 out for power (constant and ground), 2 for can bus communication.
2. out of the 4, 1 is used for the ACC control (Red)., 1 for Illumination control (Orange), another had a cut Violet (purple) wire. A brown wire I did not trace at all.
The ACC wire connected to the cars ACC wire directly. This is the starting point to see why I had 12 volts when it was supposed to go away after so many seconds.
Internally of the can bus, 3 circuits that I found where controlled by P-Channel MOSFETS. These are transistor like on-off switches. A regular transistor controlled these MOSFETS to apply 12 Vs to the radio 3 wires.
1 was for the Illumination (Orange), the other in my case (Red) for ACC control. and the Purple one, well wire was cut. The MOSFET outputs (one side of the switch) had a large current diode that would apply
12 volts to the wires (Red, Orange and Violet). Well, the ACC one was a more hefty diode. The diodes are used to block the Cars 12V from directly connecting to the MOSFETs thus they are called Blocking Diodes.
I check the leads of the 3 MOSFETS with a digital ohm meter. The leads on the MOSFETs that I was concern are the S (source) and D (Drain). These are used like a switch contact. The G (Gate) is like the lever
which is controlled by the internal processor.
I had 1 MOSFET that was shorted S-D meaning it will have 12 V all the time on the lead which was the Red lead.
Since the Violet wire was cut and not used, I used that to replace the shorted one. These MOSFETs are 2.8 Amp components and are Surface Mount Devices (SMD).
Now the question is, how did this SMD short. The diode is still good, it most likely could short if the ACC circuit went to ground. The ACC wire of the car connects to the radio like the Can Bus. If thats the case, the control for that would also be bad, but with the Cheap DUAL radio, that works ok. So I think, it simply went bad, maybe because my trip just a week ago was in the Southwest of the states where the outside was 120 degrees F in the shade.
I have yet to put the radio back in the car to test it. Hopefully I get it back Saturday and see, but I'm sure it should be ok. I did inform Pumpkin of the results since part of my job (which is in the Medical Device Field) is to find why things fail and resolve it.
Now, how would on solve this on your own, .. Well, look at your radio and check which wire controls the function that seems to be working incorrectly. Mine was ACC Red wire. The Can Bus circuit Delays the shut down of the radio I think via the Can Bus. Cutting the wire that connects to the can bus that controls that signal (red) and see if the radio shuts down when you remove the key and open the door (Car ACC now controls the shutdown of the radio.
I wonder if a Diode should be put into the wiring between the ACC of the car end to the radio ACC input and tie the can bus ACC to the radio side ACC.
Kind of like Car ACC plug ------>| -----.--------Radio ACC in
|-------Can Bus Red wire
When the car ACC is 12 volts, it powers the Radio.
When car ACC goes away the can bus powers ACC to radio for time out.
Don't know..
I hope this helps.. I kind wonder off sometimes.. But I hope you understand
Wayne
It does help -- thanks! As my unit doesn't use CANbus, it would be even more helpful for me if you could sketch out the whole interconnect between CANBus adapter and head unit (with connector & pin #s identified), including how they both connect to the car.
I would expect to see a standard (TXD & RXD) UART serial port connection between CANbus adapter and head unit, probably at 38.4Kbaud. Curious too what MCU device they use in the CANbus adapter, though that is purely curiosity; not likely to be able to get to the code inside it.
dhmsjs said:
It does help -- thanks! As my unit doesn't use CANbus, it would be even more helpful for me if you could sketch out the whole interconnect between CANBus adapter and head unit (with connector & pin #s identified), including how they both connect to the car.
I would expect to see a standard (TXD & RXD) UART serial port connection between CANbus adapter and head unit, probably at 38.4Kbaud. Curious too what MCU device they use in the CANbus adapter, though that is purely curiosity; not likely to be able to get to the code inside it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will try to drum up a schematic of this for you and others.
i will include a sample of the p-mosfet info as well.
the connector, i will try to locate correct pin numbers, if not, a drawing of it
Oldpapa49 said:
I will try to drum up a schematic of this for you and others.
i will include a sample of the p-mosfet info as well.
the connector, i will try to locate correct pin numbers, if not, a drawing of it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have figured the wiring pretty much. Schematic I'm still working on.
At the CanBus side.. a 16 pin plug. 8 are used. looking at the wire end with retainer tab up starting from the left 1= BLK, 2= GRN (MSCAN+), 3= ORN Illumination, 4= BRN Brake in (Parking Brake)
next 4 blank.. 9= YEL (+12V Battery), 10= GRN/BLK (MSCAN-), 11= RED ACC, 12= VIOLET (No Connection, cut wire)
The radio on FORDs use MSCan buss, not the High Speed type.
This my radio and info: https://www.amazon.com/Touchscreen-Navigation-Receiver-Explorer-Mirror-link/dp/B016UL0WU0
Back to work
Hmm. No other connections to the HU? I take it this system doesn't support steering wheel keys?
dhmsjs said:
Hmm. No other connections to the HU? I take it this system doesn't support steering wheel keys?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It has swc1 and ground.
2005 car.
Sent from my SM-G930T using XDA-Developers mobile app
Oldpapa49 said:
It has swc1 and ground.
2005 car.
Sent from my SM-G930T using XDA-Developers mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so it uses resistive ladder keys then.
dhmsjs said:
Ok so it uses resistive ladder keys then.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup. The canbus use in this car is very limited. It is suppose to work with the Entertainment system, but nope. New cars but not this model.
Oldpapa49 said:
Yup. The canbus use in this car is very limited. It is suppose to work with the Entertainment system, but nope. New cars but not this model.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can bus works now. Repair works.
Sent from my SM-G930T using XDA-Developers mobile app
Hello,
I have a 12V computer FAN and I want to install onto my PX5 to cool it. If I connect the fan to the yellow wire (12V) when I turn off the motor, will the fan also turn off? Is the unit only on when the engine is started?
Thank you!
Are fans necessary on the PX5? What brand are you running? I thought they were better these days?
Yellow is direct to Battery and always on.
Red is via ignition and only on when ignition s on.
RobRoy said:
Yellow is direct to Battery and always on.
Red is via ignition and only on when ignition s on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Finally I don't install the fan unit, temperature tests do not give better results.
I have another question about the connection of the power supply. I have problemas with keeping the memory of time. I have read this one: http://bbs.xtrons.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16
In the post they say to connect the long yellow wire to the battery, but will there be battery drain problems if the unit is connected always? Can I connect it to another 12V car connection?
thanks in advance!
txesterfield said:
Finally I don't install the fan unit, temperature tests do not give better results.
I have another question about the connection of the power supply. I have problemas with keeping the memory of time. I have read this one: http://bbs.xtrons.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16
In the post they say to connect the long yellow wire to the battery, but will there be battery drain problems if the unit is connected always? Can I connect it to another 12V car connection?
thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The quoted article explains connection. Battery drain is not an issue. If unsure, suggest seeking the advice of a reputable installer.
txesterfield said:
Finally I don't install the fan unit, temperature tests do not give better results.
I have another question about the connection of the power supply. I have problemas with keeping the memory of time. I have read this one: http://bbs.xtrons.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16
In the post they say to connect the long yellow wire to the battery, but will there be battery drain problems if the unit is connected always? Can I connect it to another 12V car connection?
thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not trying to sound cruel here, but if you're connecting the long yellow wire directly to the battery, why would it drain more than connecting it to another 12V line? You're aware of how electricity works right (or maybe not)? Perhaps you should read up on current draw, direct current etc. Connecting the yellow wire direct to the battery will make no difference. My only suggestion is, if you go via battery rather than another subsystem, you add an extra fuse. Unfused wires are dangerous.
The yellow wire provides power to the clock and the memory. Nothing more. If you want the memory to be written down to NAND, you can set this in factory settings. Not a bad little hack for those who don't fancy wiring in the yellow wire, but then you might find the deep sleep function is erratic. The clock will still be lost as well, so you'll need that to update either via NTP or GPS. I believe the power consumption is around 10mA. Your average low quality phone charger delivers 1Amp.
Wire it in, forget about it.
skezza said:
Not trying to sound cruel here, but if you're connecting the long yellow wire directly to the battery, why would it drain more than connecting it to another 12V line? You're aware of how electricity works right (or maybe not)? Perhaps you should read up on current draw, direct current etc. Connecting the yellow wire direct to the battery will make no difference. My only suggestion is, if you go via battery rather than another subsystem, you add an extra fuse. Unfused wires are dangerous.
The yellow wire provides power to the clock and the memory. Nothing more. If you want the memory to be written down to NAND, you can set this in factory settings. Not a bad little hack for those who don't fancy wiring in the yellow wire, but then you might find the deep sleep function is erratic. The clock will still be lost as well, so you'll need that to update either via NTP or GPS. I believe the power consumption is around 10mA. Your average low quality phone charger delivers 1Amp.
Wire it in, forget about it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was talking to connect the yellow wire to another 12V car connection to avoid carrying the cable to the battery that I have in the trunk. My only doubt was the consumption of the unit if I had it permanently connected, but that doubt has already been resolved. I will look for a pernament 12V near my head unit to connect it.
Thanks!
txesterfield said:
I was talking to connect the yellow wire to another 12V car connection to avoid carrying the cable to the battery that I have in the trunk. My only doubt was the consumption of the unit if I had it permanently connected, but that doubt has already been resolved. I will look for a pernament 12V near my head unit to connect it.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use your central locking fuse, tap in there. Job done.
Hi, so back to the point from the thread title.
Theres reason to keep lower temperature on any device with CPU as you can really extend lifetime and avoid trootling .
Specciali for Px5 (any) android headunit which is build into car dashboard wheres can easily be 60°C in hot summer day.
theres not only CPU whats heating, theres also mosfet amlifier which can dissipate 100W of heat.
Another point to consider is that if you using animated or 3D background it uses CPU and GPU pretty much and keep it hot.
So if someone interested theres small "How to"
I found old 80mm 24V fan which works pretty ok (i put drop of oil on bearing)
1. mark fan side holes holes, dril the hole and than mark main fan hole on the top part of headunit:
{
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"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
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}
2. cut the main hole (i used angle grinder + hand grinder) than i clean scorings with instant adhesive glue mixed with sawdust.
3. To prevent corosion I paint a sheet with black spray.
4. Solder 2 cables to 3pin socket and on mainboard to switched 12V/GND. (speed signal from fan is not used)
I used 12V from 78M09 9V voltage regulator and GND from capacitor beside.
As I have 24V fan - it runs pretty quiet on 12V as it is only 50% speed. If you use 12V fan, you can connect it to output of 78M09 (9V) to low down a speed.
5. Done
What kind of difference to the temps has it made? Great job btw. Very clean install.
Top!!!!
wizzsb said:
Hi, so back to the point from the thread title.
Theres reason to keep lower temperature on any device with CPU as you can really extend lifetime and avoid trootling .
Specciali for Px5 (any) android headunit which is build into car dashboard wheres can easily be 60°C in hot summer day.
theres not only CPU whats heating, theres also mosfet amlifier which can dissipate 100W of heat.
Another point to consider is that if you using animated or 3D background it uses CPU and GPU pretty much and keep it hot.
So if someone interested theres small "How to"
I found old 80mm 24V fan which works pretty ok (i put drop of oil on bearing)
1. mark fan side holes holes, dril the hole and than mark main fan hole on the top part of headunit:
2. cut the main hole (i used angle grinder + hand grinder) than i clean scorings with instant adhesive glue mixed with sawdust.
3. To prevent corosion I paint a sheet with black spray.
4. Solder 2 cables to 3pin socket and on mainboard to switched 12V/GND. (speed signal from fan is not used)
I used 12V from 78M09 9V voltage regulator and GND from capacitor beside.
As I have 24V fan - it runs pretty quiet on 12V as it is only 50% speed. If you use 12V fan, you can connect it to output of 78M09 (9V) to low down a speed.
5. Done
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be curious on your results but in reality you are either just pulling in or pushing out hot air constantly. You have no source of cool air so I don't see this doing much of anything for you unless you are pulling in cooler air from somewhere. Heat rises and all you're going to do it saturate the back side of the dash with hot air to the point there is no more cooler air at which time the temp will probably equalize and be no better.
Dave
TT_Vert said:
I'd be curious on your results but in reality you are either just pulling in or pushing out hot air constantly. You have no source of cool air so I don't see this doing much of anything for you unless you are pulling in cooler air from somewhere. Heat rises and all you're going to do it saturate the back side of the dash with hot air to the point there is no more cooler air at which time the temp will probably equalize and be no better.
Dave
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which app can I use for temperature measuring? ideally with graph possibility (so I can test playing video or so on...)
Theres ofcourse improvement if air inside is colder than CPU/Amplifier as theres much more heat transfer if air is mooving,
but if the temperature of air is nearly the same as CPU/Amp, than you are right, but for confirm that I can make a measurement with fan and without. Theres no more hot days in this period in Denmark, so reslts will be only for first case.
I don't know the best app to be honest. With that said if the air you are blowing over the cpu is same temp as air inside the unit it won't do much. I don't know how hot the air behind a dash can get in summer but my thought is if you have a fan pumping that hot air over the hot internals it will eventually saturate the under dash air and all air will be same temp (Or close to it) unless you have the air recycling under the dash which i don't think it really does much. I could be wrong though.
Dave
So after doing some before testing in my 70 deg. F garage I didn't see any need for a fan as I never got over 115F with volume at half. I did notice however my MTCB does seem to slow down on warmer days and In Illinois we have some 100deg days in summer so I decided to do something about it. I went a bit overkill as I was just using what I had. I have a 90mm fan that will be exhausting hot air. I intentionally put it over the CPU to try to draw air right from it. I had an old heatsink/fan from an old video card that was almost the perfect size. Drilled a few holes in it just to ensure I can unscrew the CPU at a later date if I ever need to as I'm gluing this thing to the CPU. Although I suppose if I'm taking it off it's a for a reason and I could just get a different heatsink/fan for the next one. I actually am using a 40MM 24V fan pulled from an old copier or something similar years ago powered by 12V and it is pushing more air than my 12V 40mm fan was. at same voltage so I went that route. TO avoid mix/matching fans I didn't put the 12V fan in as it doesn't move much air but I did drill a hole in case I decide to add one later PLUS I wanted to have enough area for intake air as that 90MM fan moved a TON of air. Probaby too much and it may be too loud but I'll address that when the time comes. Rather than feed from the harness I just probed the bottom of the board where the main plug is an and fed off of that on the PCU. Kapton taped and soldered so we should be all good there. The two fans draw 600mA max between the two but i'm not seeing that much current draw right now. Without further ado here is what I've got right now. Any opinions are welcomed. I plan to put plugs everywhere so I don't have to cut/unsolder if I ever disassemble this thing again.. I'm also going to put a few small heat sinks on a few of the other chips that get warm, particularly the two to the left of the CPU which may be the amp chips. Anyone have any idea which will get hottest during use? Thus far just those two to the right of the cpu get warm.
Dave
Dave
TT_Vert said:
So after doing some before testing in my 70 deg. F garage I didn't see any need for a fan as I never got over 115F with volume at half.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So which apk did you use for measuring of CPU temp?
or you using infra termometer?
using an IR thermometer. I've not found a program w/ accurate CPU temps. It jumps by 5C all the time up and down.
Dave
Cooling the PX5 CPU
Hi
I ordered this Aikenuo 25m x 20mm x 0.15mm Thermal Adhesive Tape,High performance Thermal Double Side Tapes Cooling Pad Apply to Heatsink
and that : StarTech.com 1U 60x10mm Socket 7/370 CPU Cooler Fan w/Copper Heatsink & TX3 -
Both are available worldwide on Amazon so try your local amazon. Price may differ though. Cheapest are UK and US
I put the tape under the copper heatsink and sticked the whole structure to the original PX5 motherboard heatsink.
Inside the beast:
I connected the fan's power to ground and accessory.
Temperature readings with CPUZ dropped a good 20° Celsius idling at 30° and rising to 60-65 at full load.
Idle :
Loaded with Youtube/Maps/Deezer and some other stuff :
Fix attachments please.
Can you explain where to connect fan on board?
blinkme2028 said:
Fix attachments please.
Can you explain where to connect fan on board?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not connected on the mainboard.
As you will see from second picture, I have connected the fan to an extension cable that runs out of the back of the HU through one of the empty holes then wired the cable to the acc and ground.
It's back in the car now so cannot make picture.
Ah also, you only have one shot with the tape, it is super uber mega sticky and cures with heat so try to position the copper radiator first before final sticking and aim well as it will be extremely hard to reposition and/or remove unless you unscrew the cpu board to avoid breaking the whole thing !
And do not forget to remove the metal cpu fixture from the heatsink which means you will need to unscrew the fan to get this metal thing out and screw the fan back
So as others have posted here, I've got serious USB issues for months now. I first thought it's the cold weather, but after a week or three with nice weather above zero all the time, and now even 16C I still have issues. I tried to find the issue today, and removed everything from the radio that could interfere. Nothing at all!
I have a USB hub that I connect with a LED in it that indicates there's power. That LED is always on when I plug it in, so there's power, but the HU detects nothing that I plug in. Not with, or without the hub. Nothing from TPMS or DAB+. The USB Controller app also detects nothing.
Everything is screwed down properly it seems, and giving a push on everything doesn't change anything. I'm on the latest Malysk ROM with the so-called software fix, but that doesn't help either. Also manually executing the fix doesn't help. Even resetting the USB via the app doesn't work anymore.
I'm afraid my USB just completely died on my now. I've tried to reboot a few times, and still nothing.
I really don't want to lose DAB+ and TPMS. That's really useful if you're used to it. Going back to commercials and muddy sounds from FM is such a shame!
Any idea what I can do? I don't think I can replace the USB chip myself without ruining the complete unit. Replace SoM? Replace motherboard? Buy a new unit? Is anyone aware of new units with the proper USB chip? Maybe those PX6 ones?
btw, checked my board and it says HCT-PX5-REV4.0.
And now my sound is completely screwed up as well. Very soft and without bass. As if my amp doesn't really start anymore, anyone an idea which wire to check for that?
To me it sounds as if your MCU does not work properly. I guess that you have a faulty soldering joint. USB devices can draw quite a current from the board. It may be that this caused a soldering joint to crack.
I would go for an optical inspection first. Check if the SOM is plugged in properly and that no capacitors are blown as well.
f465gt said:
To me it sounds as if your MCU does not work properly. I guess that you have a faulty soldering joint. USB devices can draw quite a current from the board. It may be that this caused a soldering joint to crack.
I would go for an optical inspection first. Check if the SOM is plugged in properly and that no capacitors are blown as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Already tried and check that. Nothing weird to see.
But guess what?! It suddenly worked now for 2 days!! Why/how?! It's so unreliable, not sure when it will break again.
It really looks like either temperature or soldering issues. I would go for an optical inspection, just to make sure that no wires are loose or pins are broken.
f465gt said:
It really looks like either temperature or soldering issues. I would go for an optical inspection, just to make sure that no wires are loose or pins are broken.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Already checked. Nothing weird to see. It has been 10+ degrees for weeks so I doubt it's the temperature.
I don't mean the outside temperatures. The unit heats up while being used. This causes bad soldering joints to get loose. Perhaps it is also a good idea to check the voltage supply. There should be some sort of voltage regulator that heats up. If e. g. the 5V regulator fails, your unit will show such a behaviour. I vaguely can remember that on the S160 units there was sometimes such an issue. Somewhere around here there were some schematics. Search for them.
f465gt said:
I don't mean the outside temperatures. The unit heats up while being used. This causes bad soldering joints to get loose. Perhaps it is also a good idea to check the voltage supply. There should be some sort of voltage regulator that heats up. If e. g. the 5V regulator fails, your unit will show such a behaviour. I vaguely can remember that on the S160 units there was sometimes such an issue. Somewhere around here there were some schematics. Search for them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've got a 12V big fan on top and heatsinks on everything. The CPU never goes above 50C.
But I doubt heat is an issue after a few seconds when the system has booted.
Ah, then the MCU crashed during boot. Does your car interrupt the ACC power while cranking? If so it is a good idea to add a relay box that switches permanent battery voltage over to the ACC line for a few seconds. I am using this one: https://www.amazon.de/Phonocar-Spannungsstabilisator-Fahrzeuge-Start-Automatik/dp/B00AK95QUA
This is an actual relay, not just some diodes and capacitors.
https://www.roadnav.com/forum/knowl...lay-buffer-radio-power-on-during-engine-start