Hello people!
I have a HTC EVO 3D GSM (signature for specifics, for what it's worth - I doubt it matters for the thing I'm about to explain, anyway).
I know this post is very long, but please allow 5-10 minutes of your time to go through this.
Charger : original HTC charger (1A output).
Cables : two BlackBerry microUSB cables, one is 2 inches shorter than the other. The HTC one broke after two weeks of usage, these BlackBerry ones stand up for the fight even after 6 months of abusing.
Extension cord : HAMA. USB 2.0, maximum speed 480 Mbit/s (that's what it says on the box). "Additional shielding for a good reduction of electromagnetic interference" -> so it's not double shielded (in case that matters at all). It's gray (for what it's worth). 1.8 meters long.
Battery Monitor Widget (BMW) may not show power consumption accurate while deep sleep, but it works fine when the phone is used and, THANK GOD, when CHARGING. So, with that app, I monitored the input current...
So... here's my little personal test.
Battery was at ~81%, so the input current wasn't varying because of the battery level, but because of the (****ty) cable(s). Throughout the test, the battery level got up a bit, but I tried to keep it steady at ~81-82 at the beginning of each test.
CPU @ 192 MHz - 1.51 GHz, Interactive governor. No undervolting, so the table ranges from 800mV (192 MHz) to 1175mV (1.51 GHz). Nothing changes, anyway, even if I undervolt it -75mV, so the voltage has nothing to do with it (maybe during * tests, it could mean a difference of a few miliamps, but it's not a viable solution).
Charging tests # - Wi-Fi off, Data off, Screen on Auto, off until I wake it and check the current with BMW.
Charging #1 : just with the BlackBerry cable, no extension cord. 1 minute after plug in : +800mA. 2 minutes after that : +789mA. It went up to 82%, so I discharged it to 81% and carried on with the next test.
Charging #2 : BlackBerry cable + the HAMA extension cord. 1 minute after plug in : +489mA. 2 minutes after that : +485mA. Notice that the input current was almost sliced in half.
Charging tests * - Wi-Fi on (signal ~80%), Data off, Screen on lowest brightness. Playing Star Legends (basically, it's opened, I'm not touching anything, any graphics that are going on there are hardly intense, nothing GPU-hunry is going on, so it's just sitting there). Media volume = 1.
Charging *1 : just with the BlackBerry cable, no extension cord. 1 minute after plug in : +413mA. 2 minutes after that : +471mA.
I couldn't resist and entered a PvP, so intense graphics were somewhat there, also touch points and all that... The current input was around +312mA.
Charging *1 : BlackBerry cable + the HAMA extension cord. 1 minute after plug in : -11mA. Notice it's discharging, but at a slow rate. 2 minutes after that : +31mA. So it started to actually draw some current from the charger, so I let it that way for another 2 minutes, and it's got to -5mA again. So definetly no charging here .
Normally, without charging, the consumption would be of about -513mA... -622mA... Same conditions : Wi-Fi on (~80% signal), Media volume on 1, lowest screen brightness, player just sitting there (in Star Legends).
I did tests with Asphalt 6 (no Wi-Fi, no active Internet connection), too. Same consumption... Same sh*t... I was thinking the Internet connection is what kills the incoming current the most (it turns out it hardly is).
So... Has anyone ever experienced something similar?! I really need an extension cord, lol.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I was wondering if a more powerful charger would solve this, but after reading THIS, I think there are hardly any chances...
I had another HAMA extension cord before. White, with double shielding, same lenght (1.8 meters)... Same current readings... I brought that one back to the store to get my $7 back, and here I am, 1 week later, having another one, in hope that the previous one was broken and this one is not. Haha...
So it's not the cord itself (bad company, lol), but the fact that there just is another connection the current has to go through...?!
I wonder too if part of the issue is using non-OEM cables, as that seems to cause problems sometimes for people in various ways, including not being able to do USB transfers.
.
Thread moved to Q&A due to it being a question. Would advise you to read forum rules and post in correct section.
Failure to comply with forum rules will result in an infraction and/or ban depending on severity of rule break.
orb3000 said:
Thread moved to Q&A due to it being a question. Would advise you to read forum rules and post in correct section.
Failure to comply with forum rules will result in an infraction and/or ban depending on severity of rule break.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks but... This isn't an EVO 3D-related issue only... It's a widespread thing, I believe. That's why I posted it in a section where more people would see it... Otherwise I would have created the thread here directly...
Sent from my LeeDrOiD-loaded 3VO
Now that this thread is no longer in the intended section... It's useless. Thanks.
Please lock it.
It's very clear the problem is your USB extension cable. Those are known to have problems passing current AND data. My work computer has a 3 foot usb extension cable so I can plug a flash drive in without crawling under my desk. It works fine with flash drives, but will not power my small hard drive that only takes 400ma of current to run.
Someone said...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=23363540&postcount=2
and
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=23365425&postcount=4
Is this true?! I tend to deny, since... http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=23372784&postcount=5
usb 2.0 significantly looses power after 6 feet if you want what you are doing to work then buy a powered extender problem solved
Make sure your using a heavy extension cord i use a 6ft 12 gague cord with no problem. Charges 700-900 ma all day with htc cable.
Sent from my PG86100 using xda premium
rontonomo said:
usb 2.0 significantly looses power after 6 feet if you want what you are doing to work then buy a powered extender problem solved.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Guess I'll have to look after those. Thought HAMA would do... They're advertising it to be "that" good on the box... I'll return the little box, get my $5 back...
Thank you for your responses!
--
gunfromsako said:
Make sure your using a heavy extension cord i use a 6ft 12 gague cord with no problem. Charges 700-900 ma all day with htc cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I assume you meant 6ft 12 gauge, not gague. The one I found (see link below) has a gauge of 24 AWG power line (guess that's good? ).
What do you say about THIS one? (Just ignore all the Romanian texts, there's English too ).
Hey, guys... Could you please tell me your opinion about this USB cable? By the specs, it looks good...
USB 3.0 works with 2.0, so that wouldn't be a problem, I guess...
Related
Does someone know if the HTC shift can be charged via the USB port?
This might allow: 1) use of an external power supply via USB; b) hot swap of standard Shift battery 3) Emergency power in a pinch...
Should it be possible?
barenbaren said:
Does someone know if the HTC shift can be charged via the USB port?
This might allow: 1) use of an external power supply via USB; b) hot swap of standard Shift battery 3) Emergency power in a pinch...
Should it be possible?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No
The shift needs alot more powere than what a usb port can provide, so it's newer going to happen
Yup = the charger outputs 12 v and USB is of course 5 v - Too bad WOuld have been cool to hot swap the battery though...
another charging-related question
My SHIFT has stopped recognizing when the external power supply is plugged in: no orange LED, no icon toggle, no switch to the plugged-in power management profile. The battery charges okay, so I can live with it, but it is annoying. I suspect a component in the charging electronics has failed, but am curious about alternative theories, and if anyone else has this problem.
cnbabbage said:
My SHIFT has stopped recognizing when the external power supply is plugged in: no orange LED, no icon toggle, no switch to the plugged-in power management profile. The battery charges okay, so I can live with it, but it is annoying. I suspect a component in the charging electronics has failed, but am curious about alternative theories, and if anyone else has this problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess that's something for the HTC repair service - i really hope they're better than the company that does HTC service in germany...
HTC Red light of Death
Guys,
I am a service tech for HTC. I would like to tell you couple of things.
When there is red right, Battery will not charge with the chargers (Electrical or USB). It will flash with Car Charger as the charge is high in Car charger.
If you see Red light..your Battery is fine. there is no point of changing the battery.
There are two IC in the motherboard of HTC. One is the Charging IC & the other one is Power Consumption IC. You need to Change the Power Consumption IC, which will cost around 10-20$.
Dont follow unnessary steps as it will affect your PDA ROM sometimes.
YOur HTC will work fine for ever.
thank you for your answer
hello reb4252,
"" reb4252 reb4252 is offline
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1
Thumbs up HTC Red light of Death
Guys,
I am a service tech for HTC. I would like to tell you couple of things.""
so you said you are working for htc ? if so i suppose you re not allowed to give us some clues about the very specific clio hardware, like the sd card link with the snap vue side..
anyway i think you are very welcome here!
woooooooow ur welcome here defenatly, at least we can pick ur brains with few things, plz plz plz make our shift upto expectations by giving us clues not solution but pointers for making BT and SD work
looking at his lack of spelling and grammer i think he might be a joker especially his last part " YOur HTC will work fine for ever. " erm he would no thats not true if he really worked for them.
tho i hope im wrong and they can get us a shift that works with the odd lil leak of info.
reb4252 said:
Guys,
I am a service tech for HTC. I would like to tell you couple of things.
When there is red right, Battery will not charge with the chargers (Electrical or USB). It will flash with Car Charger as the charge is high in Car charger.
If you see Red light..your Battery is fine. there is no point of changing the battery.
There are two IC in the motherboard of HTC. One is the Charging IC & the other one is Power Consumption IC. You need to Change the Power Consumption IC, which will cost around 10-20$.
Dont follow unnessary steps as it will affect your PDA ROM sometimes.
YOur HTC will work fine for ever.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello friend,
I am unfortunate I damaged my Shift when power accidentally went in through the USB port thus damaging the power consumption IC in the motherboard. Unfortunately I dont seem to get the replacement part anywhere. You had mentioned that specific part in the post mentioned and I was hoping that you might be able to assist me.
Here is the thread about my unfortunate Shift..... http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=701950
Car power adapter 15-25 for my htc shift is it possible?
Hi to all.
Yesterday I bought via internet a car power adapter like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/15-24V-80W-Car-DC-Power-Adapter-Auto-Charger-Laptop-/180476771054
But my HTC SHIFT can be recharged with 12volts typical so question is:
CAN I USE 15Volts (minimum output from my new car adapter) to power my HTC SHIFT or is just a little bit more. I suppose max 20% more is just good but not more than this.
I must put a zener diode ... to reduce a little bit or as in your opinion I CAN USE IT WITHOUT PROBLEMS.
Thanks
sullivan2002
Thanks for the idea! I would defenitly put a zener between there just in case. Do make sure you use a high amp zener. I could build a boost converter to get from 5 to 12V but that would cut the amps in more than halve but it could be nice to use an external USB battery to swap my shifts battery. I have 3 battery's so that would be nice. Any idea how much a sleeping shift uses? The converter won't be able to put out more than 200mA becouse of the USB restrictions. Is it possible to keep it from charging when swapping battery? Becose i think that charging uses a lot but a sleeping shift almost nothing(not hibernate).
Guys be very careful when using chargers that are above the Shift's specific power rating. My experience with the Shift confirms that HTC did not think about safety measures when putting the Shift together. I had a small freak accident with the Shift when power entered through the USB port and instead of just blowing a fuse the entire motherboard got fried! You dont want to fry the motherboard coz getting a replacement motherboard is as difficult as swimming across the Atlantic. Ask me how I managed to swim across I will tell you.
So I would advise you to tread very carefully. For me what I did is that I had a 12V, 2A car charger for a different device lying around. I simply cut off the power jack on that car charge and replaced with one similar to the Shift wall charger jack and all is good. Of course you also have to be precise about the polarity. The Shift has several week points that you dont want to mess with
They say that the charger of an EEE PC 901 an the Asus R2H have the same charger as the shift. That is only partially true. The specs on the charger is the same but the shift uses a slightly smaller jack. The eee and the R2H are interchangeble. I have a friend with a 901 and it charges my R2H just fine. Shame becose I have 2 chargers for the R2H and only one wonky one for shiffy.
pelle.jansen said:
They say that the charger of an EEE PC 901 an the Asus R2H have the same charger as the shift. That is only partially true. The specs on the charger is the same but the shift uses a slightly smaller jack. The eee and the R2H are interchangeble. I have a friend with a 901 and it charges my R2H just fine. Shame becose I have 2 chargers for the R2H and only one wonky one for shiffy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
True it has been confirmed that Shift Charger and eee Pc is one and the same. Only difference is the jack.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=502548
So if you have a eee pc or similarly rated charger lying around you can replace the jack and you will be good to go. You can pick the Shift size jack from any elctronics shop. Thats how I managed to rig myself a Shift car charger
Hi new member and new owner of a 4G shift
to answer the OP 's original question of "can you charge off the USB"
it depends on your motherboard, I have a Gigabyte X58-UD4P and with the USB power switches enabled my phone will charge while connected to the USB port
I have 4 PCs set up and my personal rig is the only one that will do this
Now a Lap top is a different story, I would suggest checking with the manufacture
of the Lap top to see if the USB can be used for this function
usb
i charge mine vis pc usb sometimes.
works but a lot slower than the stock charger.
Could you explain if it's necesarry a especial cable or how do you conect the Shift's USB port to a energy usb porwer source?
I had a quick look but i couldnt find these ones on the site. As most of you know a spare battery (or 7) is a must with the TP2. But im a noob and im not sure what the difference is with these with the mAh ratings. Is there much difference between 13050mAh and 1500mAh batteries? which will be better?
Heres the 1500mAh battery
Here is the 1350mAh battery
Thanks
Personally, I wouldn't get a replacement battery from HK, and not over Ebay either - I've used one source for two-way radio kit over there for a while, and while the Li-Po and Li-Io batteries do work, they appear to have a limited life span in comparison with OEM equipment available over here.
I'd think about long-term savings, and get something from Clove (linkage here), who at least can be held accountable to the "fit for use" elements of the Sale Of Goods Act 1964 over here, unlike HK sources via ebay. Don't get me wrong - ebay's a great source of bargain kit, but for something as essential and spec-critical as a PDA/Phone battery, I'd go home-grown retail sources every time, purely for the legal protection.
In any case, I'm getting a PowerMonkey from Maplin today. Much more versatile for me
My spare batteries have always been HK cheapo's and never a problem with them before. If that one you showed me was half the price it is then id have got it.
1600 mAh battery from the uk?
Is this really genuine?
SMF_12 - I opted for the powerMonkey for a number of reasons.
It's small enough to lug around in a pocket or belt pouch.
It carries potentially two full TP2 charges from a single full charge
It's got a long shelf life on a single charge
It's got adaptors in the box for most of the portable devices you might already own that take a 4.5-5.5 vDC charge
If by chance your connecter isn't there, they suply additional ones at a very reasonable cost
It'll charge my TP2 and my other half's Razr (that's the motorola phone, not the ladyshave ) too
Oh, did I mention it's rechargeable off anything with a USB port, and can take a charge off any mains power socket on the globe (travel plugs come as standard).
I'm rather impressed with it
However, if all you want is the spare battery, then by all means, go for that instead
As to the "is this genuine"... he's in the UK, subject to the Sale of Goods Act and the Trade Descriptions Act. If he's telling fibs, he can be held accountable. Hope that helps
Have fun
UPDATE: Hold fire on the PowerMoneky, folks. There's a glitch. While the supplied USB charging cable works with the miniUSB adaptor tip to charge the TP2, the PowerMoneky itself does not - say again not - appear to be charging the TP2. Only found this out last night - I've been using the USB adaptor cable and tip up to now.
A trouble ticket email has been sent to them, asking for any information regarding this, and hopefully a fix as well.
You can imagine how damned annoyed - and embarrassed - I am at this point in time.
Update - very rapid response from PowerTraveller tech support - seems that they believe I need a "DOPOD" adaptor tip, and requested my snail mail address so that they could send me one - still doesn't explain how the miniUSB tip works when I'm using it in the car from the cigar lighter -> USB adaptor, but there y'go. Soon as the DOPOD tip arrives, I'll test it out, and update you all
Thanks for that, i took a look at it in maplins today but i think ill stick to a second battery. but im sure people will be happy to read your review on the product so keep us updated on this product
Will do
OK, DOPOD adaotor tip arrived today.
Result: FAIL.
The text of the follow-up note to PowerTraveller Customer Services, sent this evening, is reproduced below, less the name of the Customer Services agent there.
Thanks for the DOPOD adaptor tip, which arrived today.
Unfortunately, it does not appear to solve the problem.
I connected the tip to the PowerMonkey Classic lead, and then plugged it into the ExtUSB connector socket on the HTC Touch Pro 2. I then moved the switch on the PowerMonkey Classic to "on". Again, the green light on the PowerMonkey Classic started to flash, but there was no noticable difference from using the normal USB adaptor tip; i.e., there was no amber charging light illuminated on the Touch Pro 2, and no charging icon was to be seen on the screen. I have to assume that there was therefore no charging current making it to my HTC Touch Pro 2.
The entire point of purchasing the PowerMonkey Classic was the be able to recharge my HTC Touch Pro 2 when I was away from other power sources, such as my home, my car, and other USB sources such as notebook PCs, when out and about conducting, for example, GPS-related activities, which are heavy on battery consumption. The advertising that I saw led me to believe that the PowerMonkey Classic *would* be the solution to my problem. Sadly, however, despite your attempt with the DOPOD adaptor tip, this does NOT appear to be the case, and I am VERY disappointed, as you can imagine.
It is remotely possible that your engineers have missed that on the Touch Pro 2, the connector on the bottom of the unit is NOT a standard USB connector, but HTCs proprietary ExtUSB format (which combines power, audio, and data feeds in one socket/plug format)?
Could you possibly check with the engineers, and ascertain if they have actually physically *tested* the DOPOD with the HTC Touch Pro 2, and, if so, how they managed to get the darn thing to accept charging current from the PowerMonkey Classic?
As it stands now, failing a working solution from your selves, I am the poud owner of the thirty quid high-tech paperweight, that is of zero use to me. I am due to see my partner (who lives 70-odd miles from me) soon, and we will test at that time whether the device works in charging a Motorola Razr.
If it does, then, short a working solution for my Touch Pro 2 being forthcoming from your company, I will give my partner the device. At least then, someone will profit from using the device. I however, will be back to square one, searching for an on-foot recharging solution for my phone.
Finaly, I would remind you that all the above fails to explain why I can get a ten quid self-reeling cigar lighter adaptor unit in my car, using what appears to be a standard USB connector, to successfully charge my Touch Pro 2. Naturally, I would be VERY interested in knowing why this succeeds, where the PowerMonkey Classic fails.
Sincerely,
Roger Stenning
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As you can imagine, I am far from amused at this entire sorry bloody saga.
As always, I'll keep you all updated, should there be anything to report.
EDIT:
Almost forgot - confirmation USB source test result:
Almost forgot. I checked to see if the DOPOD tip worked with a purely USB-derived power source, so plugged the supplied self-reeling PowerMonkey adaptor cable into the tip, then into my computers' USB port, and connected the tip to the Touch pro 2. Surprise surprise, the amber light on the phone illuminated, and charging current was flowing into the Touch Pro 2.
The problem is therefore sqarely defined as being with the PowerMonkey itself, and NOT the adaptor tip.
Casting back to my original note, I have to assume that the PowerMonkey is NOT delivering a powerful enough charge, at 4.5 VDC, where USB specs clearly require 5 VDC. There is therefore a deficit of 0.5 VDC from the PowerMonkey Classic.
I will still check to see if this is successful in charging a Motorola RAZR or not, and will report back to you at that time.
Sincerely,
Roger Stenning
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've never had problems with HK batteries either, but hasn't this thread been done a few times already?
SMF_12 said:
1600 mAh battery from the uk?
Is this really genuine?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hope so, I've just ordered
Update time.
PowerTraveller, manufacture of the Power Monkey Classic v1, have sent me a returns form in the email, and have told me that once I've returned it, they'll send a replacement after testing.
Looks like the postage is down to me, though
Roger, if it's any consolation, I've had to do the merry dance that you appear to be doing right now. I bought a v1 just over six months ago and went through the exact process you have described. Just the other day, I received a replacement unit that I'm testing now. My problem was that when my phone was 'next to' empty, I'd plug in the v1 and it would charge to about 50% before itself becoming empty. I know the v1 was full because I had charged it for hours and the LED was green. "Two fulls charges"? Pfffft.
I also got the load of old cobblers from Powermonkey about the USB tips too. How I should use a DOPOD tip instead of a USB one. When I questioned 'why?' I received a half mumbled reply about the tips being internally wired differently. The one that they promised to mail me never arrived so I bought one from the website, being only like £3. Did it make a difference? No.
I don't know how this replacement's going to work out but I have my doubts. Before buying the v1, I bought two other Powertraveller products, the Powerchimp device that runs off two rechargeable AA batteries. I gave up on both of them within a week because even with two fully charged AAs, it seemed to charge my phone for about 30 minutes before being in an empty state and when I looked at my phone (TytnII) it had maybe gained 10% charge. OK if you want to make say one emergency phonecall but useless if you need the equivelent of a fully charged spare battery (or two!!!).
I'm going to monitor how it works out and see if this replacement works and provides at least a full charge and a half. If it doesn't, well, although it'll work on some level, it just doesn't do what it's advertised to do which is very naughty (especially when you see them laud their product all over the internet/Twitter etc as the most amzing thing since bread that has been sliced
One day guys, once day I hope the world will see a truly reliable and consistant portable power supply. Maybe in a thousand years, even a reliable solar powered products?
hiya - thanks for the heads up. It's be damned nice to see a curcuit diagram of the thing, along with a specific list of components. They try that mumbling stuff with me, they may bite themselves somewhere embarrassing - I'm also a licenced Radio ham in the UK (G1LIW), and as some of you might know, we have to pass tests in the technical aspects of the radio hobby - which includes electronics
I'm damned if I know what the preventative difference between a DOPOD and a miniUSB tip, either, by the way, given that the ExtUSB used by HTC only adds maybe 7 contacts to the format while avoiding existing MiniUSB pin locations...
MiniUSB layout...
http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml
ExtUSB layout...
http://pinouts.ru/PDA/htc_extusb_headset_pinout.shtml
The two are not, of course, interchangeable - while MiniUSB plugs will fit into ExtUSB sockets, the reverse is not true.
Anyhow, we will see.
Thanks again for the heads up
Quick test result update.
I let my TytnII (battery, 1350mAh?) drop to 30% battery and then plugged in my fully charged P M Classic. It charged back to 100% and the charge LED was still flashing green. I then plugged in my half empty old Motorola V3, it charged it for approx 30 minutes before flashing red and eventually stopping. 2200mAh!?!? capacity? I bet I didn't consume any more than about a 1000mAh and it was empty.
OK, it's new so this might go up a bit but it really doesn't bode well. OK, so maybe I'll get one full charge out of it but it's advertised as 2200 my phone is 1350, surely it should be up towards about two charges?
Bottom line is, it works but nowhere near as well as it's advertised to do.
OK, received the replacement PM (it's a version 2, not a version 1) in the mail today. They included another DOPOD adaptor tip, too. Guess they figured I'm a clumsy schmuk who may have lost the one they sent me the other week (nope, still got it)
Anyhow, Turning it on results in rapid green LED blinking, meaning they fully charged it before sending it to me. Which was nice of them
However, and interestingly, plugging in a charger to it does NOT result in any LED illuminating. Odd. have to follow that up later.
I'll let you all know how it behaves in charging my phone once I use it "in anger".
Be interested to see what you make of it's charge capacity...
Cured the inability to charge the PowerMonkey problem - it was a rather embarrassing user error - the plug wasn't correctly seated in the mains socket
Gonna let the phone drain a bit while I'm on holiday this week, and use the PM to charge it. It's a PMv2, not a PMv1, that they sent as a replacement, remember, so we will see if the thing behaves any better than your v1
Later
After a month or so of tests, I can say my version 2 is 'better' but it still doesn't delivery the one and a half charges it's supposed to. On average, I'd say it fully charges my TYTN2 once and is then empty.
I really can't be bothered to stress about it any more because I guess, one full charge is better than nothing but I think I'm justified in being a little irked that it doesn't do what it's advertised to do?
Conclusion: It works, it'll charge your phone to full from empty and is an alternative to buying a spare battery for your phone. It'll also charge everyone elses phone with the right adapter!
Hi guys I hope you can help.
I AM OFFERING A REWARD OF £10 GBP TO THE FIRST PERSON WHO SUCCESSFULLY ADVISES OF THE RIGHT FIX FOR THIS ISSUE *.
There, now I have your attention - brace yourself, this one’s a tough one.
About 2 months ago, I flashed DeltaROM 4.2.2 V2.2. I’m a serial flasher so I’m quite aware of what I’m doing. I had some issues with it that I tried to get support from them but they unfortunately didn't get back to/couldn't help me.
The original post is here in case you’re interested, the biggest issue being my S3 no longer charges correctly. If I plug a charger in from the mains, it will not register as charging. Once every 10 seconds or so, it will actually register the charger, but only for about half a second before it drops. It DOES however charge if I connect it to PC, Xbox or car (only wrks in the car if charging from a USB socket, using the in-car charger straight from the cigarette lighter doesn’t work). Basically, I can charge my phone off anything that isn’t directly the Mains electricity.
I’ve googled the hell out of this problem, only to find that posters will quickly dismiss it as faulty hardware; bad USB cable, broken USB port, bad charger, low voltage from mains – anything at all. But the bottom line is I do not have faulty hardware. Everything was absolutely fine until the very instant I finished flashing DeltaROM – I’m convinced something didn’t go right during my first installation since it was a bit rocky (read the original post for details).
After getting no answer from the Delta lot I jumped ship to LiquidSmooth (which is very nice by the way) but the problem remained. In one last attempt I started again from scratch. I used TriangleAway, formatted EVERYTHING (the kind that also deletes all your media) and flashed back to stock. Using Samsung Kies I 'upgraded' the firmware and I'm now on the latest official 4.1.2 release – and it makes me a little sad!
Just to back up the fact it’s not hardware related, I deliberately persevered with it to gather up as much information as I could, and here’s what I learned:
Why I'm sure it’s not the battery.
• I've tried two other batteries (3 total) and the problem exists with all 3
• The health of my battery is excellent
• My battery charges fine in other phones
Why I’m certain it’s not the Charger
• One of my chargers is only a couple of months old
• The charger I have been using is the official Samsung one that came with the phone, though I have 3 more – one BlackBerry one, a charger that came with my s1 (many moons ago) and two the same that came with mine and my gf’s phone. These are the plugs with a USB input on them,
• I have 5 chargers in all – BlackBerry, Nokia, Samsung (x3) ALL of which don’t work with my phone but ALL of which work with EVERY other phone in the house.
Why I’m sure it’s not the wall Socket.
• I’ve tried every plug socket in the house and even taken it to my parents and to work – same story.
• Everything else I plug into the sockets work just fine
Why it’s not a bad USB cable.
• I have 3 that I use. All of them will charge off of the computer, the car or the Xbox – they cease to work when I use them in the mains USB plug.
• They all work fine on every other phone in the house, regardless of if it’s in a mains adapter or a computer
• I am able to connect with all 3 cables to my laptop to view files.
Why I don’t think it’s a damaged USB port on the phone.
• It ‘does’ actually do everything it needs to do when plugged into my pc, Xbox or car. If it’s communicating well with other devices and harbours electricity correctly when doings so, then it can’t be the USB port since the way it gathers energy is the same.
So what gives? How can it be bat hardware if it works from the PC? How can it be bad firmware when I am back to Stock?
Thanks a million guys.
* Telling me to send it off for repair doesn't count. If it's something that I can do at home and it fixes my issue, the first person who gave that advice will be the winner. This does of course mean that if my phone is just downright screwed, there's a chance no-onw will win.
Have you tried to use a kernal like siyah kernal and change the chrging parameters for ac charging? (the Mah value for charging off wall socket...
Sent From Pure Awesomeness ....
Koogly said:
Have you tried to use a kernal like siyah kernal and change the chrging parameters for ac charging? (the Mah value for charging off wall socket...
Sent From Pure Awesomeness ....
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Hi Koogly
Sorry probably should have mentioned this. I tried siyah and set everything to charge as much as it could - AC and USB. I also tried a lot of other 'fast charge' apps to no avail.
While the USB does charge, it's still quite slow at 460mA. Once in a while, the mains charge stays connected, and you can watch the mA level drop. It will start at around 999, but within 10 seconcd it will decrease down to 100mA, which is slower than the phone actually uses up energy.
Nobody?
This guide will help you:
- diagnose charging problems;- fix problems with the touchscreen while charging;I decided to write this because I searched for my problems on-line and never found a complete answer, just partial undocumented answers, essentially guesses from people, tried them, most didn't work, wasted a lot of time with trials so I hope this will save some people some time.
1. My phone says it's charging but the battery level drops or stays the same.
This is common when you are not using the original charger, but in order to check if you phone is actually charging you need to look in dmesg for something like this:
Code:
ab8500-charger ab8500-charger.0: VBUS input current limit set to[B] 500 mA[/B]
When connected to a computer (USB 2.0 port), you will usually see a limit of 500mA, and when connected to a car/ac charger, you will usually see a limit of 1500mA. If the charger is defective or not recognized by the phone you will see 0mA, even if the phone will look like it's charging it's actually not charging!
2. I get touch screen errors when my phone is connected to a PC or when charging.
It took me a while to figure this out, but it's quite simple, you need to check that your outlet is grounded. Once you plug your notebook/laptop/computer/charger into a grounded outlet all problems will go away. If you can't get a grounded outlet but still need to use your phone while plugged into your notebook/laptop remove the charger from the notebook/laptop and all will be fine.
The touch screen problems can also be fixed some times by using another charger, but this is a process of trial and error, for example I managed to get 2 chargers to work from 10.
thanks man... great post.... already clicked thanks button....
In some cars, such as mine, when I start the engine, ACC power is cut to the HU. So, if I am sitting in the car with the HU on and engine off, when I then start the engine, power is briefly interrupted to the HU. Sometimes this can cause issues with Android. It can also restart the boot sequence if the HU hadn't fully booted. So I have been considering this mod...
dsa8310 said:
Since the ignition wire gives a very weak signal to the HU, using a diode and a capacitor at the ignition entry of the HU should prevent the reset without any Xposed based module.
It works for my mirror with compass.
(the diode has one end connected to the ignition wire; the capacitor has one end connected to ground; the other two ends are connected to the ignition entry of the HU - the red wire(?))
Just use a so called solid/polymer capacitor (not with liquid electrolyte!) which works below freezing temperatures - or otherwise rated up to -40 degrees Celsius.
Code:
HU IGN
IGN o-------i>|-------X------i]-------o GND
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dsa8310 said:
Any (Sillicium) diode would do, finding the appropriate capacitor value, only by testing. If it's too big, then the normal powering off is delayed objectionably, while if too small, it won't delay enough (to cover for those few seconds while the engine starter is working). You would also need a capacitor that still works at below freezing temperatures (solid, tantalum).
Just connect the diode between your ACC/IGN car (or CAN bus adapter) wire and the HU IGN entry, and the capacitor between the same HU entry and ground.
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clearchris said:
I reccommend against tantalum caps unless you really know what you are doing as tantalum caps failure mode is flames. :fingers-crossed:
Solid polymer organic caps, though harder to find, or low temp rated electrolytics (they exist) are what i would go with.
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dsa8310 said:
Read my lips:
Connect a diode (Si) between the car's ACC wire and the HU's ACC entry. If the HU does not start then reverse the diode.
Connect a capacitor between the HU's ACC entry and ground. Choose a capacitor able to function below freezing temperatures. If capacitance is too big, the HU will remain on too long after stopping the car engine. Conversely, if it's too small, the starter will reset the HU as before. Start with a 100uF capacitor and find the optimal value for your car.
If unhappy with this hardware solution, delve into the Xposed framework based software solutions (mtc... xposed... something).
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680uF & 1,000uF capacitors have been suggested.
But then I saw mention of some prebuilt timer PCBs and there were some links to listings on eBay USA. Has anyone got any links to tried and tested devices sold through UK based sellers that are relatively simple for a non-electronics expert to configure?
What are your exact problems with your HU?
I had the same issues with those cheap USB plugs for the cigarette lighter.
5V output is not stable during power on, the connected usb harddrive does a reset.
I took a look at the switched 12V supply. In my case when powering on the switched power supply is pulled down to 0V for about 2seconds.
That's nothing you can solve with a capacitor. Step 1 was to use a diode with resitor capacitor combination to switch a relay.
Step 2 was to use a different 5V supply which is stable down to 6V.
It's not a major problem. I just don't like power being interrupted when starting the engine. This can interrupt the boot process, causing a slight delay. It can also cause an error message when booted, some sort of system app / service doesn't like it. Also, I don't think it's good for device longevity having its power suddenly cut and reapplied in quick succession. So I wanna fit a capacitor to keep the ACC power live to the HU when starting the engine.
I'm looking at electrolytic capacitors on eBay and it seems like a mission getting a 12v capacitor. Would a 10v or 16v capacitor work? Which would be best?
CARRisma said:
I'm looking at electrolytic capacitors on eBay and it seems like a mission getting a 12v capacitor. Would a 10v or 16v capacitor work? Which would be best?
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Hi CARRisma, just use a capacitor rated above 12v, 16v would be fine, keep in mind that xxV referes to the maximun volta. the capacitor can handle, the other value ( µF, F...) is the "charge" it can hold. Very important, if you use electrolytic capacitor pay attention to the polarity (- to GND and + to POSITIVE), otherwhise it could EXPLODE
A picture (video) is worth a thousand words
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KX5HIE7Ddk
I'm going to have to do this too. Every time I start my car w/ the unit already booted up it starts to shut down and it says exchange service has crashed or something similar. Are you just using one cap and without a diode? Could you tell me what you go with?
Dave
Yes, that's the problem I have, some sort of Google service crashes. I plan to use a diode too.
CARRisma said:
I'm looking at electrolytic capacitors on eBay and it seems like a mission getting a 12v capacitor. Would a 10v or 16v capacitor work? Which would be best?
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You don't want a 12 v one - "12 volts" in a car is actually closer to 13.5 v. I'd get a 25 v one. You can use one which is rated for more voltage within reason (e.g. don't go for a 250 v one), it's just that as the voltage rating increases so does the size and cost.
so are you guys going to use a 1 Farad 16v cap? Unless my math is wrong but that is HUGE.
Dave
Pass, I haven't got that far yet and electronics isn't my strong point.
Or based on size constraints i'm thinking maybe wiring three 5.5V 1.5F in series to get me to about 16.5V .5F. That'd give me about a second and a half of capacity down to 10V. You guys think that'd be acceptable for this instance?
Maybe try one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PD65UGA
http://www.3rdbrakeflasher.com/timer-c-68/multifunctional-3v24v-time-delay-relay-timer-p-192.html
That will work for the times when I start the car right away but for the times the accessory is turned on then the car is started it wouldn't. I just need to retain 10-13Vdc for a few seconds while cranking voltage dips.
Dave
For packaging reasons I think I may go with this instead. Three of these will put me at 16.2V and 1.68F and I'd have ~5 seconds of runtime in a manageable package about 1.25" square. Problem is I have to buy 100 of these things although their 100qty is cheaper than most 5qty. Opinions?
Or maybe these as they're a bit cheaper and smaller
TT_Vert said:
That will work for the times when I start the car right away but for the times the accessory is turned on then the car is started it wouldn't. I just need to retain 10-13Vdc for a few seconds while cranking voltage dips.
Dave
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Is that a response to the timing I posted? If so this timer is programmable so if you want it to smooth out a drop in acc it will do that. You simply set its delay longer that you expect the drop for the cranking. Obviously, you can also use it for longer delays if you want your unit to be powered for a period of time after you turn off the car. Both short and long delays will smooth out your issue.
I can't always predect the delay between acc on and crank to be honest. With that I just checked w/ my DVOM and the acc. goes dead on crank so that is my culprit, not so much a minor voltage drop but a complete drop.
The ignition wire is only a signal, power is drawn from a different wire. Maybe a couple of mA? So, a few mF might do.
You're right. I thought it was more than a signal. it is only drawing 1ma. Excellent, looks like a 35v 1000μF should do nicely.
TT_Vert said:
I can't always predect the delay between acc on and crank to be honest. With that I just checked w/ my DVOM and the acc. goes dead on crank so that is my culprit, not so much a minor voltage drop but a complete drop.
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I think perhaps you misunderstand how this works. If you configure the timer delay for 30 seconds it solves your problem. If you configure it for 10 seconds it probably solves your problem. You don't need to know specifically how long because if you set it at something like 30 and your cranking lasts 3 seconds it still works because the cut of acc triggers the timer and the power stays on for 30 seconds. 3 seconds later the power turns on and the timer stops because you have power again.
Thanks, I'll look further into this.
Dave
Went ahead and used a 470μF cap today w/ a 1A rectifier diode and it works great. W/O the diode i only got about 1/2 a second of capacity. with the diode I get over 7 seconds. It seems the HU will stay on when the acc. is all the way down to ~6.5v which surprised me.