Can I pay you for a photo sample (0.6x, 30 sec, iso100) - Huawei Mate 20 Pro Questions & Answers

I want to know about how much noise a 30 sec exposure on iso100 with the ultra wide 0.6x lens, makes on the sensor.
The picture must be taken in a dark room and aperture and focus doesn't matter, since it's sensor noise I'm interested in.
1 picture jpg
1 picture raw
I can pay 10$ for the service in Paypal.
Best
Thue

Thuekr said:
I want to know about how much noise a 30 sec exposure on iso100 with the ultra wide 0.6x lens, makes on the sensor.
The picture must be taken in a dark room and aperture and focus doesn't matter, since it's sensor noise I'm interested in.
1 picture jpg
1 picture raw
I can pay 10$ for the service in Paypal.
Best
Thue
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I took one in a very dim bathroom. Came out terrible.
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hendogg_af said:
I took one in a very dim bathroom. Came out terrible.
Click to expand...
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What's your email I'll send it to you

hendogg_af said:
I took one in a very dim bathroom. Came out terrible.
---------- Post added at 08:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:02 PM ----------
What's your email I'll send it to you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks!
I have send you a PM

Got some really interesting shots from hendogg - lots of dead/stuck pixels (easy to remove afterwards), but impressed by the relative little noise on a 30 sec iso100 "warm" sensor.

Thuekr said:
Got some really interesting shots from hendogg - lots of dead/stuck pixels (easy to remove afterwards), but impressed by the relative little noise on a 30 sec iso100 "warm" sensor.
Click to expand...
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Can you post the picture?

I buy my phone a week ago. So what do you want to see actually? Do you want to take night sky 30 seconds with 100 iso on super wide angle? Or mountain or my village?

isko01 said:
I buy my phone a week ago. So what do you want to see actually? Do you want to take night sky 30 seconds with 100 iso on super wide angle? Or mountain or my village?
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Click to collapse
I meant the picture from the other user that he gave to you. But if you can post some star photos or some photos in low light you have made with the phone, I will greatly appreciate it. I will also post some for comparison these days

16mm 3 RAW files tonemapped and merged in to 1 jpg.
I'm satisfied with the low noise high detail. 1, 4, 20sec iso100 exposure
https://lfgss.microco.sm/api/v1/files/50568a83945a5b4af1a59589da845595b1b201bd.jpg

Related

[Q] Panoramic mode

Has anyone tried out panoramic mode on the razr?
just got mine in the uk today and found that it seems to cut off quite a bit off the top and bottom of the pictures in the final picture which has been joined.
this is rather annoying as I expect to get what I see on the screen....
What is the final vertical resolution of a pano photo. With my original SGS it was only using 1.3mp shots and stitching them together.
panoramic mode?
how to?
*sorry for the noob question
opensourcefan said:
What is the final vertical resolution of a pano photo. With my original SGS it was only using 1.3mp shots and stitching them together.
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Click to collapse
1.5 for mine.
---------- Post added at 11:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:43 AM ----------
depth_charge said:
panoramic mode?
how to?
*sorry for the noob question
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Open camera and hit the menu button. The fourth option on the screen looks like mountains with a sun above is modes. It gives you options from single shot, multi shot, timer and last but not least panorama.
ah thank you
i didnt noticed that panoramic thing is in there.. just notice single and multi shoot *shy

Panoramic

Does this phone come with the panoramic camera option?
Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk 2
The International does... probably this one too.
Just tried it for you. Yes it does have the panorama shot. It is as slick as the One S's. It has a few more frames as well at 8. There is a blue square that shows up as you get close to the next frame and snaps next frame automatically. I notice the second one was a bit blurry, but that's probably on me for not being steady. It calculates seemlessly, the pic saving with no lag or apparent processing. The One S does it quick too, but some of the apps I've tried (on other phones) sometimes took a second or two to process.
This phone is fast.
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Shooting modes:
Single shot
Burst shot
HDR
Smile shot
Beauty
Panorama
Cartoon
Share shot
Buddy photo share
Have not tried anything but Panorama, but if no one else posts, I'll do a review on them after I get back from an errand.

Settings for camera

So my question is really what are the most ideal settings I should adjust on my phone to take the best possible pictures? Right now I have everything on default but I wanted to know everyone else's set up so I can take amazing pictures.
bump anyone ?
Bump, bump
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
There are no such thing as the best settings...it all depends on what you are shooting, and what you want to produce.
Sent from my Verizon Galaxy S III
dtdmdrums said:
There are no such thing as the best settings...it all depends on what you are shooting, and what you want to produce.
Sent from my Verizon Galaxy S III
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So is it best to just keep my camera defaulted then? because as of now I have it on auto contrast white balene etc. And if thats the case what are some good settings for low light conditions like inside restaurants and stuff?
blackguy101 said:
So is it best to just keep my camera defaulted then? because as of now I have it on auto contrast white balene etc. And if thats the case what are some good settings for low light conditions like inside restaurants and stuff?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I honestly think this is something you have to adjust on the fly. Adjusting everything manually is definitely not the fastest way to take a picture so sticking with the auto settings is probably your best bet when it comes to quick shots. There are certain presets (indoor, incandescent, cloudy, out doors) that can be used to modify the "auto" settings. Try some of those out. I would just try different settings in different scenarios. You're very unlikely to be in the exact same scenario every time.
Camera settings
As far as "best" all around settings, the following hold true:
*Self portrait: OFF (unless you are taking a self portrait)
*Flash: Auto (for ease) but turn the flash ON in bright sunlight if shooting people within 8 feet, to fill in the harsh shadows)
*Shooting Mode: Single shot if you want to not get carried away and have a million shots to sift through, or Multi shot if you are not good at quick shooting and want to have lots of shots to choose from.
*Scene Mode: None. (for best all around use) the other settings just force higher or lower f-stops and shutter speeds, if you don't know what effect those have on an image, then "none" would be a good choice.
*Exposure Value: 0 for most shooting. + for shooting with bright backgrounds (snow, sand, bright windows etc) and - for dark backgrounds (dark stages with spotlight, concerts with lighting, black walls, etc) The normal light meter wants to blend all light values to 18% gray, so if you shoot a gray wall, a black wall and a white wall, they would all come out looking basically the same with 0 EV.
*Focus mode: Auto for almost everything
*Timer: Off. Unless you are wanting to use a self timer
*Effects: none. They are fun to play with for a couple of minutes, but you probably won't use them much in the real world, and you have a lot more control over effects in an external photo editing program.
*Resolution: 3264x2448. anything else is a waste of the camera specs. Yes, you can use smaller resolution if you are only shooting things to be used on the web, but what if you have a nice shot, and you had the camera set to 640x480? Storage is cheap and plentiful, keep the resolution to the max!
*White Balance: Auto Most cameras now have a very good auto balance.
*ISO: Auto Again, most cameras are good at this. You will get more noise and "grain" with higher ISO settings, but you will get the image. If you keep it set at 100, you will get blurry or unusable photos in low light. Remember, this is a PHONE, not a DSLR camera.
*Metering: Center weighted for most shooting. Spot if your subject and background vary greatly (similar to EV+-)
*Anti Shake: On, what the heck, let technology work for you.
*Auto Contrast: Off. if you are shooting a gray, dreary day, let it be dreary, not corrected to high contrast. Again, you can have much more control of the final image in a photo editing program (even one on the phone)
*Guidelines: off if you are easily distracted, on if you would like some help keeping horizons straight, or to keep the center of interest in the "Rule of thirds" this will help you to NOT put peoples heads in the Center of the photo with all that sky wasting space above them all the time
*Image Quality: Superfine. Why would you want to buy a Lamborghini and only drive it 10 MPH (KPH)?
*GPS tag: your choice. Most photo folders can group photos by location, kinda nice. I leave mine on.
*Shutter Sound: On, unless it bugs you, but it helps you know when the shutter fires as well as letting the subject know when they can quit posing/smiling. If you are trying to shoot secret pictures in the locker room, then silence it Also, Android Lost and other phone finding apps can shoot photos from the front and rear cameras if your phone is lost or stolen, a quiet shutter won't scare the thief.
*Storage: Memory card! Too many things can happen to your phone, keep your pictures on the external card. and back them up with something like dropbox, or manually.
(I have owned Associated Photographics (.com) for 25 years )
MontyPyFly said:
As far as "best" all around settings, the following hold true:
*Self portrait: OFF (unless you are taking a self portrait)
*Flash: Auto (for ease) but turn the flash ON in bright sunlight if shooting people within 8 feet, to fill in the harsh shadows)
*Shooting Mode: Single shot if you want to not get carried away and have a million shots to sift through, or Multi shot if you are not good at quick shooting and want to have lots of shots to choose from.
*Scene Mode: None. (for best all around use) the other settings just force higher or lower f-stops and shutter speeds, if you don't know what effect those have on an image, then "none" would be a good choice.
*Exposure Value: 0 for most shooting. + for shooting with bright backgrounds (snow, sand, bright windows etc) and - for dark backgrounds (dark stages with spotlight, concerts with lighting, black walls, etc) The normal light meter wants to blend all light values to 18% gray, so if you shoot a gray wall, a black wall and a white wall, they would all come out looking basically the same with 0 EV.
*Focus mode: Auto for almost everything
*Timer: Off. Unless you are wanting to use a self timer
*Effects: none. They are fun to play with for a couple of minutes, but you probably won't use them much in the real world, and you have a lot more control over effects in an external photo editing program.
*Resolution: 3264x2448. anything else is a waste of the camera specs. Yes, you can use smaller resolution if you are only shooting things to be used on the web, but what if you have a nice shot, and you had the camera set to 640x480? Storage is cheap and plentiful, keep the resolution to the max!
*White Balance: Auto Most cameras now have a very good auto balance.
*ISO: Auto Again, most cameras are good at this. You will get more noise and "grain" with higher ISO settings, but you will get the image. If you keep it set at 100, you will get blurry or unusable photos in low light. Remember, this is a PHONE, not a DSLR camera.
*Metering: Center weighted for most shooting. Spot if your subject and background vary greatly (similar to EV+-)
*Anti Shake: On, what the heck, let technology work for you.
*Auto Contrast: Off. if you are shooting a gray, dreary day, let it be dreary, not corrected to high contrast. Again, you can have much more control of the final image in a photo editing program (even one on the phone)
*Guidelines: off if you are easily distracted, on if you would like some help keeping horizons straight, or to keep the center of interest in the "Rule of thirds" this will help you to NOT put peoples heads in the Center of the photo with all that sky wasting space above them all the time
*Image Quality: Superfine. Why would you want to buy a Lamborghini and only drive it 10 MPH (KPH)?
*GPS tag: your choice. Most photo folders can group photos by location, kinda nice. I leave mine on.
*Shutter Sound: On, unless it bugs you, but it helps you know when the shutter fires as well as letting the subject know when they can quit posing/smiling. If you are trying to shoot secret pictures in the locker room, then silence it Also, Android Lost and other phone finding apps can shoot photos from the front and rear cameras if your phone is lost or stolen, a quiet shutter won't scare the thief.
*Storage: Memory card! Too many things can happen to your phone, keep your pictures on the external card. and back them up with something like dropbox, or manually.
(I have owned Associated Photographics (.com) for 25 years )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This must have been a lot to write but this is EXACTLY what I was looking for =) thank you so much I really appreciate the time you have put into that post
MontyPyFly said:
As far as "best" all around settings, the following hold true:
*Self portrait: OFF (unless you are taking a self portrait)
*Flash: Auto (for ease) but turn the flash ON in bright sunlight if shooting people within 8 feet, to fill in the harsh shadows)
*Shooting Mode: Single shot if you want to not get carried away and have a million shots to sift through, or Multi shot if you are not good at quick shooting and want to have lots of shots to choose from.
*Scene Mode: None. (for best all around use) the other settings just force higher or lower f-stops and shutter speeds, if you don't know what effect those have on an image, then "none" would be a good choice.
*Exposure Value: 0 for most shooting. + for shooting with bright backgrounds (snow, sand, bright windows etc) and - for dark backgrounds (dark stages with spotlight, concerts with lighting, black walls, etc) The normal light meter wants to blend all light values to 18% gray, so if you shoot a gray wall, a black wall and a white wall, they would all come out looking basically the same with 0 EV.
*Focus mode: Auto for almost everything
*Timer: Off. Unless you are wanting to use a self timer
*Effects: none. They are fun to play with for a couple of minutes, but you probably won't use them much in the real world, and you have a lot more control over effects in an external photo editing program.
*Resolution: 3264x2448. anything else is a waste of the camera specs. Yes, you can use smaller resolution if you are only shooting things to be used on the web, but what if you have a nice shot, and you had the camera set to 640x480? Storage is cheap and plentiful, keep the resolution to the max!
*White Balance: Auto Most cameras now have a very good auto balance.
*ISO: Auto Again, most cameras are good at this. You will get more noise and "grain" with higher ISO settings, but you will get the image. If you keep it set at 100, you will get blurry or unusable photos in low light. Remember, this is a PHONE, not a DSLR camera.
*Metering: Center weighted for most shooting. Spot if your subject and background vary greatly (similar to EV+-)
*Anti Shake: On, what the heck, let technology work for you.
*Auto Contrast: Off. if you are shooting a gray, dreary day, let it be dreary, not corrected to high contrast. Again, you can have much more control of the final image in a photo editing program (even one on the phone)
*Guidelines: off if you are easily distracted, on if you would like some help keeping horizons straight, or to keep the center of interest in the "Rule of thirds" this will help you to NOT put peoples heads in the Center of the photo with all that sky wasting space above them all the time
*Image Quality: Superfine. Why would you want to buy a Lamborghini and only drive it 10 MPH (KPH)?
*GPS tag: your choice. Most photo folders can group photos by location, kinda nice. I leave mine on.
*Shutter Sound: On, unless it bugs you, but it helps you know when the shutter fires as well as letting the subject know when they can quit posing/smiling. If you are trying to shoot secret pictures in the locker room, then silence it Also, Android Lost and other phone finding apps can shoot photos from the front and rear cameras if your phone is lost or stolen, a quiet shutter won't scare the thief.
*Storage: Memory card! Too many things can happen to your phone, keep your pictures on the external card. and back them up with something like dropbox, or manually.
(I have owned Associated Photographics (.com) for 25 years )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for answering as well, i posted some questions in the photo thread but everyone seemed to be a douche and ignored. One question is whats the difference between HDR and normal shot? And macro focus is for close up shots right?
Wow, awesome post.
I am a pro photographer (canon eos body and all L lens) and I agree with the post 100%
---------- Post added at 08:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:03 PM ----------
Intercrew said:
Thanks for answering as well, i posted some questions in the photo thread but everyone seemed to be a douche and ignored. One question is whats the difference between HDR and normal shot? And macro focus is for close up shots right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes macro is a closeup setting.
HDR takes two shots and combines them for more dynamic range, but you have to hold the camera very still for it to work right.
---------- Post added at 08:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:06 PM ----------
MontyPyFly said:
(I have owned Associated Photographics (.com) for 25 years )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice site, that 61 vette brings back memories.
I had a 58 vette about 100 years ago... ;-)
jmorton10 said:
Wow, awesome post.
I am a pro photographer (canon eos body and all L lens) and I agree with the post 100%
---------- Post added at 08:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:03 PM ----------
Yes macro is a closeup setting.
HDR takes two shots and combines them for more dynamic range, but you have to hold the camera very still for it to work right.
---------- Post added at 08:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:06 PM ----------
Nice site, that 61 vette brings back memories.
I had a 58 vette about 100 years ago... ;-)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm, so would HDR be better suited for a photo?
blackguy101 said:
This must have been a lot to write but this is EXACTLY what I was looking for =) thank you so much I really appreciate the time you have put into that post
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The killer part was when I was about 3/4 done I was clicking to correct a spelling error and the screen went away!!! I still don't know what happened, But I found it again eventually. But if I didn't, you wouldn't have gotten any answer
---------- Post added at 09:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:02 PM ----------
jmorton10 said:
Nice site, that 61 vette brings back memories.
I had a 58 vette about 100 years ago... ;-)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Don't you wish you still had it? Cha-Ching$!
jmorton10 said:
Wow, awesome post.
I am a pro photographer (canon eos body and all L lens) and I agree with the post 100%
---------- Post added at 08:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:03 PM ----------
Yes macro is a closeup setting.
HDR takes two shots and combines them for more dynamic range, but you have to hold the camera very still for it to work right.
---------- Post added at 08:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:06 PM ----------
Nice site, that 61 vette brings back memories.
I had a 58 vette about 100 years ago... ;-)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so when shooting with the hdr setting are the 2 pictures suppose to merge as 1 if done correctly? Or will 2 pictures always show up in the gallery?
Sent from my SPH-L710 using xda premium
Hi guys, I have a quick question about the camera photo dimensions.
Is there any reason why the maximum resolution photographs do not appear full screen? They appear in a 1.33 ratio, whereas I'd prefer them to be full "hd" 1.77 resolution (filling the screen).
Putting the resolution down to 6 megapixels seems to fix this, but is there any other way around this?
dunderball said:
Hi guys, I have a quick question about the camera photo dimensions.
Is there any reason why the maximum resolution photographs do not appear full screen? They appear in a 1.33 ratio, whereas I'd prefer them to be full "hd" 1.77 resolution (filling the screen).
Putting the resolution down to 6 megapixels seems to fix this, but is there any other way around this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes there is a reason. 8mp is a 1.33 format and your screen is 1.77, just as you say. You cant put a round peg in a square hole.
8mp = 3264w X 2448h
6mp = 3264w X 1836h
In the 6 MP mode, you are chopping off the top and bottom of the frame to fill the wide screen of the S3. (and loosing 2 MP of data in the process)
If you notice, the number of pixels in the width are not changing from 8 to 6mp, just the height. So if you ever decide to print an 8x10 from your 6mp photo, you will end up chopping off another couple of mega pixels from the sides, so your really printing an 8x10 out of about HALF the cameras potential.
When you zoom in during playback, you can fill the screen without actually chopping off the top and bottom information. It may bother you, but I think keeping the maximum amount of pixel data far out weighs the squarer image size.
That said; if you are never going to do anything but look at exactly what you shot on the phone, then feel free to shoot in 6mp mode and see the full image on your screen.
Good thread, I'm surprised there isn't more talk about the camera and it's potential.
So far, the only thing I've changed from the default settings is the *Image Quality: Superfine.
Are there any tips for nighttime or darker shots to be less noisey? I've found the camera to be excellent in the day time, but I can't for the life of me get those kind of pictures at night
Not really, you get better images at lower ISO settings, but at night, with the lower ISO setting you get much longer shutter speeds which create more noise...... You still have to remember, this is a PHONE

Photo quality

Say "cheese", then rate this thread to express how photos taken with the honor 5X come out. A higher rating indicates that photos offer rich color (without over-saturating), sharp detail (with all subjects in-focus), and appropriate exposure (with even lighting).
Then, drop a comment if you have anything to add!
Could someone post a picture with the camera zoomed in on something? I have the nexus 6p and would like to see what a zoomed in photo looks like.
Thanks
Here you go!
https:// goo.gl/photos/HCEkiJMB48zbuVzFA
Apparently I cant post links yet.... remove the space
Not the best
excellent camera..
here are some samples
just go here for complete sample shots album..
https://goo.gl/photos/qjqTSkuPd2TGGteeA
zoom focus is appalling in function. hardware probably all good enough and purely poor software !
Lack of updates addressing this is my biggest annoyance with Huawei. They happy ignore it and just spend the resources on pushing next device .
Low light photos are bad as well
I would cut them some slack on low level shots but good light and poor focus response is ridiculous, should of been resolved in updates but no .
rip their updates
13 mp shooter really does its job,
Love the front cam
Photo quality is really superb.
The quality is decent, all things considered. However I've been having a lot of problems with the focus. It regularly drifts completely out of focus and then slowly (over the next 30 seconds to a minute) drifts back. Tapping to focus does nothing in this case. It's really irritating when I'm shooting video. I don't know if it's a hardware or software problem, but I suspect the AF unit is on the fritz.
How can I improve a better quality on photos, I see that photo is really bad on ambiental light
Rommco05 said:
Ambiental = lowlight? in low light scenes is big improvment to have fixed phone, put your hands on something stable, or leave phone recumbent on beer bottle
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Click to collapse
On the picture there is so much noise on low light
Rommco05 said:
Yes this is possible, you can a bit reduced noise when u taking fotos from stand/fixed phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh ok! Thanks!
Reduced noise ? If soo use a headset then
gopinaidu77 said:
Reduced noise ? If soo use a headset then
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bro. It's not with the sound. It's with the pictures.
adriansticoid said:
Bro. It's not with the sound. It's with the pictures.
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Click to collapse
I thought its video
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adriansticoid said:
Bro. It's not with the sound. It's with the pictures.
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Click to collapse
I thought its video
Fdraco10 said:
Oh ok! Thanks!
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I had this problem with my Oneplus One a while back. All my low-light photos had terrible color and noise. However it was fixed when I flashed a rom with a custom camera hal (color os hal to be specific) and it was a night and day difference. Colors were spot-on, noise was almost completely gone in low-light. The camera app itself also seems to have a big role in picture quality. If it wasn't for the oneplus one having the same camera hardware as China's oppofind7 phone (which runs color os), the corporation wouldn't have made an effort to create the color os camera hal. So its kind of a unique situation I guess.

Do you guys think these G5 camera shots are normal?

Just as what the title says, do you guys think these G5 camera shots are normal? Why?
To me they look mostly terrible, especially when zoomed in, the pics would go blurry and painting-like. Lots of grains in low lights. I hope this is normal though.
I'm wondering how this handset is even a flagship
camera shot samples are in the attachment
video samples:
https://vimeo.com/182562180
https://vimeo.com/182562179
All taken on either simple mode or auto mode at default settings.
minigreen said:
G5 camera shots are normal....
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Click to collapse
Really appreciate your confirmation. I just thought mine was defective and that I needed to get it replaced before the warranty is out. Mine is a G5 SE by the way.
Still, this selfie shot of my pal bugs me out, given plenty of light and the shot still looks like sht. I mean it doesn't look good enough to my taste, rather too cartoonish sigh../:
Photo's aren't meant to be zoomed into unless you take them manual RAW.
The selfie I would say the mouth moved causing the weirdness.
The photo's on the my G5 are excellent and manual is as good as you'll get outside of an SLR.
Reading the specs for the G5 SE, seems it's a different processor? Probably accounts for the shots coming out a bit blurry if the processor can't keep up. If the processor is cut down the the phone you have isn't a flagship
I would get an S6 or S7 if you're not happy, as the iphones cameras are pants.
Jonathan-H said:
Photo's aren't meant to be zoomed into unless you take them manual RAW.
The selfie I would say the mouth moved causing the weirdness.
The photo's on the my G5 are excellent and manual is as good as you'll get outside of an SLR.
Reading the specs for the G5 SE, seems it's a different processor? Probably accounts for the shots coming out a bit blurry if the processor can't keep up. If the processor is cut down the the phone you have isn't a flagship
I would get an S6 or S7 if you're not happy, as the iphones cameras are pants.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, that sounds like bad news I wanted to love this phone. Anyways thanks for clearing it up for me
Video recording is tough for me as well. My brother took some amazing videos with iPhone SE compared to my blurry ones. As for the photos Simple & Auto are the worst. I'm guessing it has something to do with software. Try Manual, tinkering with the settings, and you'll notice the difference.
Here are some pics I took using Manual.
Speaker Bass said:
Video recording is tough for me as well. My brother took some amazing videos with iPhone SE compared to my blurry ones. As for the photos Simple & Auto are the worst. I'm guessing it has something to do with software. Try Manual, tinkering with the settings, and you'll notice the difference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow superb shots you got there! So your G5 in simple & auto mode takes about as bad quality still pics as mine? like water color paintings?
G5 is bad in taking macro shots, on the contrary it's very good in panorama shots.
http://www.androidauthority.com/camera-shootout-results-690429/
marveloz said:
Really appreciate your confirmation. I just thought mine was defective and that I needed to get it replaced before the warranty is out. Mine is a G5 SE by the way.
Still, this selfie shot of my pal bugs me out, given plenty of light and the shot still looks like sht. I mean it doesn't look good enough to my taste, rather too cartoonish sigh../:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
disable the face tune completely, you know, that slider at the bottom
---------- Post added at 11:31 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:22 AM ----------
G5 takes amazing shots, I use it for my instagram, it's fantastic!!!!
If you want very sharp shots, use manual mode, manual focus and shoot in DNG.
The wide angle lens loses lots of details in darker environment, but still so fun to use.
Bastienhere said:
disable the face tune completely, you know, that slider at the bottom
---------- Post added at 11:31 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:22 AM ----------
G5 takes amazing shots, I use it for my instagram, it's fantastic!!!!
If you want very sharp shots, use manual mode, manual focus and shoot in DNG.
The wide angle lens loses lots of details in darker environment, but still so fun to use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dragged the slider at the bottom with a face image on both sides all the way to the left and wahlah the front camera take sharper and more detailed shots ever since. Thank you!!
So my G5 SE is normal isn't it? I don't need to RMA it right?
marveloz said:
I dragged the slider at the bottom with a face image on both sides all the way to the left and wahlah the front camera take sharper and more detailed shots ever since. Thank you!!
So my G5 SE is normal isn't it? I don't need to RMA it right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it's normal!! And you're welcome!
And remember taking selfies in bright condition makes photos sharper as the iso is not pumped up.
Bastienhere said:
it's normal!! And you're welcome!
And remember taking selfies in bright condition makes photos sharper as the iso is not pumped up.
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Thanks man, that means a lot really. You got instagram?
marveloz said:
Thanks man, that means a lot really. You got instagram?
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Yes! My instagram username is @bastienhere

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