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Hi all,
I've not got my Hermes variant yet, but would like to ask if anyone plans on using this device in the car for example; with the need to charge AND have audio out going to the car speakers.
Since there is only one connector for both charging and audio, is there some sort of 'Y' cable that 'separates' the two connections?
Thanks.
Brodit has an adapter with just charging feature:
http://www.brodit.com/productinformation.jsp?anr=971690
I have just written an email to them if they could put an audio out cable as well. I will update if I get any information.
esackbauer said:
Brodit has an adapter with just charging feature:
http://www.brodit.com/productinformation.jsp?anr=971690
I have just written an email to them if they could put an audio out cable as well. I will update if I get any information.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I remember seeing that one...
I would have thought more people may have wanted such an adapter- but obviously not. This is something I would use in my car all the time.
Hi Guys,
Have you considered the 'parrot' car phone kit options? They come in a variety of options, basically each is a Bluetooth car kit, that bonds with your device,transfers the contacts, mutes your cars radio, and pumps telephone calls through the car speakers also, it is in every way a fully working car kit for the Xda range.
I am biased as I retail and install them, but every customer i do installs for, they absoultey love them, as they also bond with upto 5 devices so other phones can be used as well, ie a works phone,
http://www.parrot.biz/united_kingdom/products/index.php?id=advanced
Drop me a line if you need any help ok,
Thanks
Bryson
bryson said:
Hi Guys,
To view and buy all Xda Brodit cradles and proclips, visit my site www.dsldevelopments.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should really fix your site to work with Firefox. It gives the error
Code:
Windows Media Player Plug-in Dynamic Library
The plug-in performed an illegal operation. You are strongly advised to restart Firefox
with Firefox 1.5.0.6 with Noscript 1.1.4.1
Well I think it may be your fault because I've never seen the error before and it is reproduceable.
bryson said:
Hi Guys,
Have you considered the 'parrot' car phone kit options? They come in a variety of options, basically each is a Bluetooth car kit, that bonds with your device,transfers the contacts, mutes your cars radio, and pumps telephone calls through the car speakers also, it is in every way a fully working car kit for the Xda range.
I am biased as I retail and install them, but every customer i do installs for, they absoultey love them, as they also bond with upto 5 devices so other phones can be used as well, ie a works phone,
http://www.parrot.biz/united_kingdom/products/index.php?id=advanced
Drop me a line if you need any help ok,
Thanks
Bryson
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would these parrot kits route the [musical] audio from my device to the car speakers then? I dont really need a BT carkit since I always have my personal BT handsfree on. My main requirements are those as listed in my original post.
Thanks Ill pass on the notes to the web guy, i use firefox and IE and works fine, is it the How it Works video?
No, it wont route music through your car, not that I have found yet,
You'd need it to support A2DP to play music too. As far as I know there's no headphone support only headset. At least it's only headset on mine.
The Parrot kits and the TyTn
To Bryson:
I have a CK 3000 that has worked fine with all of my phones. However, according to a different thread there seems unfortunately to be a problem with the Tytn and some (all?) of the Parrot kits.
Hi,
Ive yet to test parrot gear with a tytn / hermes etc - nhave you been over to the parrot forums to see if anyone has posted regarding this issue there?
Sorry i cant be of more help,
Bryson!
My parrot works sweelty with my Tytn and my Strtrk. I have the CK3000 unit too.
Y cable wanted!
I want a Y cable too!
Split into audio out, mic in, charge.
Preferably in a brodit carholder!
I'm sure someone can make this, now the phone is sold in Japan, lot's of japanese will want to use their own headsets, so I hope they will invent some nice cables
Im also looking for this same adaptor, so I can charge the device in the car while the adioo output can be used for satnav.
Anyone know of such an adaptor ? (Y cable)
I posted on the Wiki that a Y cable is soon to be available from Expansys. http://www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=140425.
grayhaze said:
I posted on the Wiki that a Y cable is soon to be available from Expansys. http://www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=140425.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah nice one, I knew this would be something people would want. But why HTC couldn't integrate this on the device in the first place still baffles me!
This is only my humble opinion.
When I first knew that the TyTn, followed by the next coming other HTC's PPCs (Trinity. Artemis), would not have the regular audio port anymore (Regardless the size, 2.5 mm or 3.5 mm), I was thinking they must be really stupid by taking that away. Since my first PPC, I have been always plug the audio/sound to my car stereo for MP3 and phone calls.
Then I tried to think about the logic, why would they take it away, they must have reasons, being such a high tech company. The most logical reason I can think of, they might want to design a good car kit /desktop cradle for it. Thus, by combining the audio port and the USB sync/charging port, they can create a cradle/car kit that would only have one connector to the PPC, instead of two connections/jacks: the USB and the audio pin. That might be a good idea, same idea like the earlier versions of the PPC, like Wallaby that had the serial connector that can be used for synching, charging, GPS, and audio input/output as well, all in the same connector.
But looking at the connector they made, the one posted above in the expansys, I'm kind of LOL really. 2 USB output, one for power, one for audio? Ha ha ha..
They /any third party, should have design a car cradle and a desktop cradle that not only have a regular USB for sync/power, but also just map out also the audio output to a regular 3.5 mm normal audio connection. And that cradle will be really useful and I would think many ppl will buy it. And for a plus side, just add a GPS module in the same car cradle unit, than its perfect solution.
Just my humble opinion...
Yes, I agree with the above post, what we now need is for someone to design both a desktop and car cradle, where it would have the 11pin, to which one would dock the device and the 5 & 6 pin on the underside.
This adapter is helpful, but it would be more helpful if accepted the standard 2.5/3.5mm plugs and power. I mean, come on, who's going to be listening in their car with headphones?
goestoeleven said:
This adapter is helpful, but it would be more helpful if accepted the standard 2.5/3.5mm plugs and power. I mean, come on, who's going to be listening in their car with headphones?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes good point. As it is, it would mean having to use this adapter to split the audio/charging and then use yet another adapter to convert the mini usb to 2.5/3.5 (if there is such as thing, seeing as the connection now would be the standard USB and not the 'square ended' one).
sh500 said:
goestoeleven said:
This adapter is helpful, but it would be more helpful if accepted the standard 2.5/3.5mm plugs and power. I mean, come on, who's going to be listening in their car with headphones?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes good point. As it is, it would mean having to use this adapter to split the audio/charging and then use yet another adapter to convert the mini usb to 2.5/3.5 (if there is such as thing, seeing as the connection now would be the standard USB and not the 'square ended' one).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That means we'll also need an USB A<->B adaptor.... Hmmmmmm.......
hi!
I just ordered an asus eee tab transformer for my car, as car entertainment system and navigation system. I am planing to invest some time o modify the hardware of the car to fit the tab optimately in.
One thing I'd like to do is to let the car command the tab for boot and shutdown. I am thinking of using the asus docking station interface of the tab but I have no pinout of this connector at the moment. Can anybody help here?
Maybe it is also possible to throw typical "next", "back", "play", "stop", ... commands? I am expecting an serial interface or something similar. Since I am an routined embedded developer, with a pinout this should be no problem.
The second thing is maybe a software thing.
I have an bluetooth car radio which supports one connection at the same time. The Idea was to use the Tab with bluetooth a2dp but with this connection all calls on my bluetooth phone are ignored. Is there something to establish a android to android bluetooth connection where the tap plays the roll of a bluetooth a2dp headset.
So for music and navigation:
Tab <-> CarRadio
For phone calls:
Phone <-> Tab <-> CarRadio
The other thing is, can the android tablet keep 2 bluetooth connections at the same time from the hardware point of view?
Ok, I think I wrote enough for now ^^
Hope somebody can help with any information.
interested in this
+1
me too
maybe someone has a good link to the asus support?
oops, sorry
fpdragon said:
hi!
I just ordered an asus eee tab transformer for my car, as car entertainment system and navigation system. I am planing to invest some time o modify the hardware of the car to fit the tab optimately in.
One thing I'd like to do is to let the car command the tab for boot and shutdown. I am thinking of using the asus docking station interface of the tab but I have no pinout of this connector at the moment. Can anybody help here?
Maybe it is also possible to throw typical "next", "back", "play", "stop", ... commands? I am expecting an serial interface or something similar. Since I am an routined embedded developer, with a pinout this should be no problem.
The second thing is maybe a software thing.
I have an bluetooth car radio which supports one connection at the same time. The Idea was to use the Tab with bluetooth a2dp but with this connection all calls on my bluetooth phone are ignored. Is there something to establish a android to android bluetooth connection where the tap plays the roll of a bluetooth a2dp headset.
So for music and navigation:
Tab <-> CarRadio
For phone calls:
Phone <-> Tab <-> CarRadio
The other thing is, can the android tablet keep 2 bluetooth connections at the same time from the hardware point of view?
Ok, I think I wrote enough for now ^^
Hope somebody can help with any information.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Something to consider when designing.
Not sure if this is going to be a permanent install or not. But you can easily set up your audio through the Hdmi instead of burning battery with your Bluetooth. At least you can still use your phone through the Bluetooth. You can also incorporate other monitors in other parts of the car. I was speaking to a car audio shop for this type of install myself a few weeks ago. I will try to get more details and report back. Was waiting for the desktop docking station to come out to really run with it.
tonyz3 said:
Something to consider when designing.
Not sure if this is going to be a permanent install or not. But you can easily set up your audio through the Hdmi instead of burning battery with your Bluetooth. At least you can still use your phone through the Bluetooth. You can also incorporate other monitors in other parts of the car. I was speaking to a car audio shop for this type of install myself a few weeks ago. I will try to get more details and report back. Was waiting for the desktop docking station to come out to really run with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks...
Bluetooth battery burn would be no problem since I want to load the battery over the car. Anyway... I'm afraid that there won't be something like a "bluetooth router" so I have to use the analog audio out. That brings me to my first question: I need the pinout of the asus connector to control the tab over the steering wheel control.
I don't think anyone's figured out a pinout yet, and even if they do, it wont be as simple as "this contact is for play, this one is for skip, etc". All those most likely go through a usb interface. Not that that would be impossible, but if you're using bluetooth your headunit should support AVRCP for sending those commands over bluetooth. Most android devices only support 1.0 right now, but that still gives you play/pause, stop, next, previous, maybe ff and rewind too.
As an embedded developer here follows one idea that maybe can help you.
Why not using all via BT, I will say you prob looking for some BT support inside the kernel. If you find a similar application using linux (google it), maybe you can ported it to the transformer. Compiling the kernel with new drivers is very easy, then u just need to get into the software part.
Have fun.
Narog said:
As an embedded developer here follows one idea that maybe can help you.
Why not using all via BT, I will say you prob looking for some BT support inside the kernel. If you find a similar application using linux (google it), maybe you can ported it to the transformer. Compiling the kernel with new drivers is very easy, then u just need to get into the software part.
Have fun.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your post!
I was thinking about a similar idea. Bluetooth could be an alternative but with bluetooth it won't be possible to switch the device on. So I tried to find a pinout and maybe I have luck to command a power on. Anyway... Right now BT seems the more realistic way, you're right.
Narog said:
As an embedded developer here follows one idea that maybe can help you.
Why not using all via BT, I will say you prob looking for some BT support inside the kernel. If you find a similar application using linux (google it), maybe you can ported it to the transformer. Compiling the kernel with new drivers is very easy, then u just need to get into the software part.
Have fun.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Android and the TF already support A2DP audio streaming and AVRCP remote control over bluetooth, there's nothing that needs to be done here. I'm pretty sure its only AVRCP 1.0 though, which only supports the basic controls (play, pause, stop, next, previous, etc). The newer versions also do things like metadata, so you can see on your headunit what song is playing.
I can say from experience that working with improving BT support in android is not easy after I spent a fair amount of time banging my head against the wall trying to add MAP support to CM7. In any case, without HC source it would be impossible to do here anyway.
fpdragon said:
Thanks for your post!
I was thinking about a similar idea. Bluetooth could be an alternative but with bluetooth it won't be possible to switch the device on. So I tried to find a pinout and maybe I have luck to command a power on. Anyway... Right now BT seems the more realistic way, you're right.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd bet that there's no way to power it up over the dock connector since the keyboard dock doesn't support it.
maxpower47 said:
I'd bet that there's no way to power it up over the dock connector since the keyboard dock doesn't support it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Power it up maybe not, but wake it up certainly. If you allow the unit to be in deep sleep when you open the dock it wakes the unit. And as long as you are constantly feeding a small amount of power to it to keep it fully charged it shouldn't be a big deal. Maybe tear down a dock to provide an extra battery to the unit and perhaps the circuitry you need for wake on start of the car. I don't play with hardware so not sure what this would do but it seems it should be possible since it already does this to an extent.
captmiddy said:
Power it up maybe not, but wake it up certainly. If you allow the unit to be in deep sleep when you open the dock it wakes the unit. And as long as you are constantly feeding a small amount of power to it to keep it fully charged it shouldn't be a big deal. Maybe tear down a dock to provide an extra battery to the unit and perhaps the circuitry you need for wake on start of the car. I don't play with hardware so not sure what this would do but it seems it should be possible since it already does this to an extent.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Tor Your post...
Im Not sure hat this "deep sleep" is. is this the same like when i press the power button shortly on the tab or another power mode?
I have no dock and I wanted to save my money and not buy it.
Hello i have a eonon car stereo running android 444 fuse rom i can only pick up 3 stations and they sometimes loose reception ive tried an amplifier and new eariel but with no luck any suggestions would be great.
I'd double check your harness connector to the oem antenna. Their was a pin loose on mine and once I bent the retention tabs back out and reinstalled the connection was much stronger.
Geekybiker said:
I'd double check your harness connector to the oem antenna. Their was a pin loose on mine and once I bent the retention tabs back out and reinstalled the connection was much stronger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its a Renault Megane and is just a standard connector.
Im now beginning to think its the components on the motherboard as the closer i get to the sauce eg: im from Wigan were Wish FM is broadcast if i drive past the studio its crystal clear same with Key 103 in Manchester. I think the radio chip on these is crap.
I think you need a power injector, because the antenna is active and needs power to work correctly. Just put the power injector between the radio and the antenna and connect the blue cable with the AMP or ANT cable of the radio harness...
Gesendet von meinem D6503 mit Tapatalk
I've had the same issue and solved it fortunately.
My Unit is a Joying RK3188 and came with a defect dual input power injector.
Easy steps to identify: At the output of these injectors (called 'phantomspeisung' in german) you sould measue 12V DC. These 12VDC sent over the 2pol antenna cable are for the antenna built in amplifier.
1st: I replaced the power injector with a diversity injector. Google for "Diversity Adapter 204.086-0) www.rta-online.com
2nd: Additionally to my amplified roof antenna I bought a second amplified antenna at amazon
http://www.amazon.de/Baseline-Conne...enne+AM,FM,+inkl.+Verstärker,+FAKRA-Stecker+F
Both together I've a really good reception now.
The diversity adapater really makes it's job. I is a littel high in price but worth at all.
Try putting some electrical tape around the Motorola male antenna plug at the head unit. What you are trying to accomplish is to insulate the area where the head unit housing may be in close contact with the plug. Takes a few seconds to try.
pounce said:
Try putting some electrical tape around the Motorola male antenna plug at the head unit. What you are trying to accomplish is to insulate the area where the head unit housing may be in close contact with the plug. Takes a few seconds to try.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...that's excatly what provided the very worst reception ever to me... So I looked around (tried a lot and spend some bucks on some useless amplifiers) and finally found the solution from my previous post. It works.
markusmuster said:
...that's excatly what provided the very worst reception ever to me... So I looked around (tried a lot and spend some bucks on some useless amplifiers) and finally found the solution from my previous post. It works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If putting insulating tape just around the plug where it would touch the housing (and not where the actual plug needs to mate up) gave you worse reception... you did something wrong.
I was under the impression that these units had issues with the software ( or hardware) or this is what I am told.
See here or am I mistaken?
dazza007 said:
I was under the impression that these units had issues with the software ( or hardware) or this is what I am told.
See here or am I mistaken?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its possible you are mistaken. The OP in this thread didn't provide any hardware specific details. Instead we know only version of android.
My units have no problem with radio reception, but I can simulate a problem if the connector touching the housing and impacting reception.
Other issues are not connecting the power to a stock antenna from the head unit when you install it. Even if you don't have an antenna that goes up and down you can have an amplified antenna. If you don't power it you don't get good reception. it can be something that is missed with wiring up the harness.
Yes, you can also have hardware problems, but its easy to rule out the external issues first before calling the unit the problem.
pounce said:
Its possible you are mistaken. The OP in this thread didn't provide any hardware specific details. Instead we know only version of android.
My units have no problem with radio reception, but I can simulate a problem if the connector touching the housing and impacting reception.
Other issues are not connecting the power to a stock antenna from the head unit when you install it. Even if you don't have an antenna that goes up and down you can have an amplified antenna. If you don't power it you don't get good reception. it can be something that is missed with wiring up the harness.
Yes, you can also have hardware problems, but its easy to rule out the external issues first before calling the unit the problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you quote "my units have no problem," what software and hardware do you have in each, which motherboard, radio chip, etc etc
I part of me would like to believe that insulation is a problem here, but guys on the Russian forums have replaced capacitors to improve reception.
dazza007 said:
When you quote "my units have no problem," what software and hardware do you have in each, which motherboard, radio chip, etc etc
I part of me would like to believe that insulation is a problem here, but guys on the Russian forums have replaced capacitors to improve reception.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have Joying units. One of the 10.1" universal units with 3188 and a 7" universal unit with 3188. No idea about the specifics of the chips.
If you have a specific hardware unit that people are complaining about then you may have a problem with that unit from that manufacturer. That's realistic, but try the other tests first before performing surgery.
Problem is most likely a internal problem with the ground of the antenna input. This was the problem with my unit.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=55279871&postcount=3266
...
This is great. It really helps illustrate how people are interpret things differently.
You have put too much tape on the connector. You have essentially broken the connection by entirely covering the outer connector. It may not be been obvious to you that a motorola antenna connector needs contact on the pointy post and the outer shell.
What you wanted to do I carefully put just a little tape on the plug where is could touch the case of the unit in a circumstance where the alignment of the female connector inside the case attached to the PCB isn't perfectly centered for the case hole. When things are out of alignment there tends to be a connection between between case and the outer shell of the connector. When these things touch it can negatively impact reception.
Hehe... I made this photos this morning with an unused plug just to illustrate. I know that the connection is broken when insulated and also the it's impossible to work this way.
I also read several threads about that "put some tape on it" thing and heard dozens of interpretations.
A picture tells more than some thousand words.
To clarify that to all of us: Please be so kind and make some photos !
Thanks in advance!
markusmuster said:
Hehe... I made this photos this morning with an unused plug just to illustrate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To illustrate how you did it?
I know that the connection is broken when insulated and also the it's impossible to work this way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So did you do it correctly when you tried it on your unit or are you saying this now to show the mistake and now you understand you need just a little bit of tape like mentioned up thread?
pounce said:
To illustrate how you did it?
So did you do it correctly when you tried it on your unit or are you saying this now to show the mistake and now you understand you need just a little bit of tape like mentioned up thread?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You might have a grounding issue if you are having to do that. I believe another member noticed that the outer part of the antenna socket is internally grounded with a little bit of solder and some foil, he had noticed that the foil had become disconnected meaning the outer part of the socket was no longer properly grounded, insulating the plug like you have done would help in that situation, but it isn't the correct fix, regrounding the socket is.
jakejm79 said:
You might have a grounding issue if you are having to do that. I believe another member noticed that the outer part of the antenna socket is internally grounded with a little bit of solder and some foil, he had noticed that the foil had become disconnected meaning the outer part of the socket was no longer properly grounded, insulating the plug like you have done would help in that situation, but it isn't the correct fix, regrounding the socket is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You may have read up thread.
1) Check the connections like power for the antenna if you have that
2) check the plug to see if its contacting the case. Tape as needed.
3) Open the case and validate the connection to the female socket on the PCB.
4) Check your MCU firmware
5) Try another unit
This whole tape thing has me so confused. The outer shell of the Motorola plug has to touch the casing for earthing doesn't it? Yet you are saying to tape up only the bits that are touching the casing.
Totally confused.
Can someone put up a picture of what is the right way to tape it please.
I would have done exactly the same as markusmuster has in the pics.
Thanks
Hi there,
I know there is already some posts relating issues like that, but most of them are dead and without a clear answer.
I actually have a Joying JY-UQ130 (RK3188 headunit) with probably a NXP6624 radio tuner chipset. This HU is installed on a Honda Civic 9G (European model). This car have an amplified antenna which worked very well with OEM radio.
Since I installed my HU, radio signal / reception is not really good. Everything is correctly plugged : blue wire is connected with ANT-CONT (12V) and radio connector is on HU.
Without connecting blue wire, radio signal / reception is clearly worst, so I think everything is OK !
So, I tried like my others to add this ANT-208 amplifier :
http://www.ebay.fr/itm/ANT-208-Car-Inline-Antenna-Aerial-Radio-FM-Signal-Booster-Amplifier-Amp-UK-/111840168048?
Now, ANT-208 and default antenna car's together make radio signal / reception worst than without ANT-208.
Is this box just **** or maybe broken ? I have not red led to control if power is OK. I just plugged red wire on AMP-CONT, which is a 12V wire normally for audio amplifier (but I don't have it). I don't know where to get 12V if I don't use this wire.
Is there any other solution to increase radio signal / reception ? Maybe I can connect another comptable chipset tuner, which is better ? If yes, which compatible chipset would you recommand me ?
Hope this topic can help community to fix this recurrent radio problem !!
Thanks !
Lwysiwyg said:
Hi there,
I know there is already some posts relating issues like that, but most of them are dead and without a clear answer.
I actually have a Joying JY-UQ130 (RK3188 headunit) with probably a NXP6624 radio tuner chipset. This HU is installed on a Honda Civic 9G (European model). This car have an amplified antenna which worked very well with OEM radio.
Since I installed my HU, radio signal / reception is not really good. Everything is correctly plugged : blue wire is connected with ANT-CONT (12V) and radio connector is on HU.
Without connecting blue wire, radio signal / reception is clearly worst, so I think everything is OK !
So, I tried like my others to add this ANT-208 amplifier :
http://www.ebay.fr/itm/ANT-208-Car-Inline-Antenna-Aerial-Radio-FM-Signal-Booster-Amplifier-Amp-UK-/111840168048?
Now, ANT-208 and default antenna car's together make radio signal / reception worst than without ANT-208.
Is this box just **** or maybe broken ? I have not red led to control if power is OK. I just plugged red wire on AMP-CONT, which is a 12V wire normally for audio amplifier (but I don't have it). I don't know where to get 12V if I don't use this wire.
Is there any other solution to increase radio signal / reception ? Maybe I can connect another comptable chipset tuner, which is better ? If yes, which compatible chipset would you recommand me ?
Hope this topic can help community to fix this recurrent radio problem !!
Thanks !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Search other threads in general section and elsewhere. There are several discussions on this topic. No single solution as caused may be related to.particular unit or car situation.
I solved issue by putting additional antenna and joing with existing in car by using Y adapter. That way I got more signal to noise ratio. Just adding amplifiers is not changing SNR.
Sorry for the long time before answering ! Thanks for your answer !
I tried connecting GND of my wires to the car ground, but no improvement.
I tried famous ANT-208, but signal is now worst. I have removed it today, and will see if something is wrong in the ANT-208's box.
Adding another antenna ? Why not Do you know an internal antenna model that works great ? I don't want to have wires and antenna on board, so if I can hide this it would be great.
Lwysiwyg said:
Sorry for the long time before answering ! Thanks for your answer !
I tried connecting GND of my wires to the car ground, but no improvement.
I tried famous ANT-208, but signal is now worst. I have removed it today, and will see if something is wrong in the ANT-208's box.
Adding another antenna ? Why not Do you know an internal antenna model that works great ? I don't want to have wires and antenna on board, so if I can hide this it would be great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Has your car got an OEM antenna booster ? If so you probably just need a power injector.
So long story short, when attempting to replace the caps for the radio circuit (for the 2nd time since the first time I used ones that weren't quite right) I screwed things up, the headunit still works I just have no radio audio.
Any thoughts on a fix?
I could replace the main board, but I've already done the Audio Mod and then I'd still have to swap the caps on the new one (or live with the lack of treble).
What about a USB FM tuner, maybe something that even has HD radio?
Contact the factory and buy a new radio IC ?
typos1 said:
Contact the factory and buy a new radio IC ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That was plan B, tho it would have to be a whole new main board, was wondering if there was a cheaper and easier solution that might also improve radio reception, seems like maybe one of the DAB/DAB+ adapters would work but there doesn't seem to be a decent software solution for those, at least not one that would be good enough to compete with the standard radio app.
jakejm79 said:
That was plan B, tho it would have to be a whole new main board, was wondering if there was a cheaper and easier solution that might also improve radio reception, seems like maybe one of the DAB/DAB+ adapters would work but there doesn't seem to be a decent software solution for those, at least not one that would be good enough to compete with the standard radio app.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why cant you remove the original tuner and solder on a new one, whats wrong with the 10 DAB solutions in th DAB thread ?
typos1 said:
Why cant you remove the original tuner and solder on a new one, whats wrong with the 10 DAB solutions in th DAB thread ?
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It's not the tuner that is bad, its circuitry on the main board, long story short, I had done the radio audio frequency with caps that werent quite the right value, upon trying to redo it with the correct ones, one of the traces got damaged, so while the tuner part works the circuitry that feeds it via the radio input selection doesn't.
I looked at the DAB solutions, but we don't have DAB or DAB+ here (our digitial/HD radio is a completely different spec for which there are no USB modules). I could use a DAB/DAB+ module for just the FM, but from what I have seen none of the software parts of the solutions look very attractive compared to the stock radio app especially considering I wont have the added features of DAB/DAB+ like the artwork, song titles (the stations over here are really poor in terms of their RDS data), etc.
jakejm79 said:
It's not the tuner that is bad, its circuitry on the main board, long story short, I had done the radio audio frequency with caps that werent quite the right value, upon trying to redo it with the correct ones, one of the traces got damaged, so while the tuner part works the circuitry that feeds it via the radio input selection doesn't.
I looked at the DAB solutions, but we don't have DAB or DAB+ here (our digitial/HD radio is a completely different spec for which there are no USB modules). I could use a DAB/DAB+ module for just the FM, but from what I have seen none of the software parts of the solutions look very attractive compared to the stock radio app especially considering I wont have the added features of DAB/DAB+ like the artwork, song titles (the stations over here are really poor in terms of their RDS data), etc.
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I see, what part of the world are you in ?
The app could eaily be altered, but you cant just tune into the FM signal, it only works if the DAB signal drops out.
Get a new motherboard then, I dont think theyre expensive.
typos1 said:
I see, what part of the world are you in ?
The app could eaily be altered, but you cant just tune into the FM signal, it only works if the DAB signal drops out.
Get a new motherboard then, I dont think theyre expensive.
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US, in that case it seems like a DAB solution wouldn't work for my need, if it only switches to FM has a fall back and needs a DAB signal initially.
I ordered one, but I believe it's defective so I am now waiting to hear back from them, would have loved a standalone option that would have improved on the appalling reception the standard tuner gets.
jakejm79 said:
US, in that case it seems like a DAB solution wouldn't work for my need, if it only switches to FM has a fall back and needs a DAB signal initially.
I ordered one, but I believe it's defective so I am now waiting to hear back from them, would have loved a standalone option that would have improved on the appalling reception the standard tuner gets.
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No DAB in US, no HD radio solution by any MTCB manufacturers ? No USB HD radio solution ?
Theres something wrong if your tuner gets bad reception, do you have an OEM antenna booster in your car ?
typos1 said:
No DAB in US, no HD radio solution by any MTCB manufacturers ? No USB HD radio solution ?
Theres something wrong if your tuner gets bad reception, do you have an OEM antenna booster in your car ?
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Yeah it sucks, I would have even settled for a satellite radio option, not that I can find a USB solution for US HD radio spec, I think its a really limited market, plus the phone carriers (main android market) aren't particularly found of FM/HD radio being available on android (or other) devices.
No the car is old (1999) so just the standard antenna, on the previous board it worked (wasn't has good as OEM radio, but acceptable, I tried some of the aftermarket boosters and they made things worse). With the new main board all I get is static and it wont auto tune to even the most local stations.
jakejm79 said:
Yeah it sucks, I would have even settled for a satellite radio option, not that I can find a USB solution for US HD radio spec, I think its a really limited market, plus the phone carriers (main android market) aren't particularly found of FM/HD radio being available on android (or other) devices.
No the car is old (1999) so just the standard antenna, on the previous board it worked (wasn't has good as OEM radio, but acceptable, I tried some of the aftermarket boosters and they made things worse). With the new main board all I get is static and it wont auto tune to even the most local stations.
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The age of your car isnt that relevant - have you actually checked the base of your antenna for a power lead ?
Can you post links to the "boosters" youve tried or similar ?
typos1 said:
The age of your car isnt that relevant - have you actually checked the base of your antenna for a power lead ?
Can you post links to the "boosters" youve tried or similar ?
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The antenna is a standard antenna, I've had numerous other aftermarket radios with no issues before including my Ouku unit and my previous JY unit worked it just wasn't as good as OEM.
I used one off ebay and then another direct from Joying.
jakejm79 said:
The antenna is a standard antenna, I've had numerous other aftermarket radios with no issues before including my Ouku unit and my previous JY unit worked it just wasn't as good as OEM.
I used one off ebay and then another direct from Joying.
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Have you actually checked the base for a power lead ? What type of booster did you try ?
typos1 said:
Have you actually checked the base for a power lead ? What type of booster did you try ?
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I think we are getting off topic here, I'm not looking for a way to improve radio reception, the unit wasn't great (compared to the OEM radio) but it was acceptable. Just looking for another option for FM radio reception, seems like there isn't one if you aren't in a DAB/DAB+ market area.
jakejm79 said:
I think we are getting off topic here, I'm not looking for a way to improve radio reception, the unit wasn't great (compared to the OEM radio) but it was acceptable. Just looking for another option for FM radio reception, seems like there isn't one if you aren't in a DAB/DAB+ market area.
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There are several solutions to having a poor FM reception with these units and many people buy boosters that are not actually boosters, I was just simply asking a few questions to see if any of the solutions would help you, not interested ? Then I ll shut up.
jakejm79 said:
So long story short, when attempting to replace the caps for the radio circuit (for the 2nd time since the first time I used ones that weren't quite right) I screwed things up, the headunit still works I just have no radio audio.
Any thoughts on a fix?
I could replace the main board, but I've already done the Audio Mod and then I'd still have to swap the caps on the new one (or live with the lack of treble).
What about a USB FM tuner, maybe something that even has HD radio?
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If installing an external HD Radio add-on is something you have interest in, consider checking out the Directed Electronics HD Car Connect Radio DMHD10001. These add on units can be had for $30 US or less on ebay and connect to your head unit via the AUX in RCA audio connections or via FM modulation. That said, I recommend using the RCA connections to anyone, as the FM modulation will usually have lessor overall audio quality. Please note that these specific Directed Electronics HD Radio Units need to have a ground jumper wire soldered from one or both of the tops of the gold RCA jacks to the black DC Ground in order to fix the over-modulation (distortion) issue. To do this jumper cleanly, remove the case cover and solder the jumper to the 90 degree ground pin at the plug connector. I also recommend drilling some vent holes in the upper case cover to help cool the unit as it does heat up.
Please note that these HD Radio units are only for use in the US (as far as I know), and are best used in areas of the Country that have more than a few HD channels available like here in So Cal. They do work with non HD AM/FM channels too. Some of the pluses are the additionally available music and news content in HD with no monthly fees, somewhat higher sound quality, as well as the overall better sound quality when compared to the built in FM tuners in the current Chinese android head units.
Attached is a pic of the grounding needed to fix the factory over-modulation flaw when using the RCA audio connections.
Moreover, you should be able to find an external satellite radio add-on unit that ties in via the RCA audio in connections if no usb version is available.
Hope this helps...
Your mileage may vary.
Best to all,
R
rhacy said:
If installing an external HD Radio add-on is something you have interest in, consider checking out the Directed Electronics HD Car Connect Radio DMHD10001. These add on units can be had for $30 US or less on ebay and connect to your head unit via the AUX in RCA audio connections or via FM modulation. That said, I recommend using the RCA connections to anyone, as the FM modulation will usually have lessor overall audio quality. Please note that these specific Directed Electronics HD Radio Units need to have a ground jumper wire soldered from one or both of the tops of the gold RCA jacks to the black DC Ground in order to fix the over-modulation (distortion) issue. To do this jumper cleanly, remove the case cover and solder the jumper to the 90 degree ground pin at the plug connector. I also recommend drilling some vent holes in the upper case cover to help cool the unit as it does heat up.
Please note that these HD Radio units are only for use in the US (as far as I know), and are best used in areas of the Country that have more than a few HD channels available like here in So Cal. They do work with non HD AM/FM channels too. Some of the pluses are the additionally available music and news content in HD with no monthly fees, somewhat higher sound quality, as well as the overall better sound quality when compared to the built in FM tuners in the current Chinese android head units.
Attached is a pic of the grounding needed to fix the factory over-modulation flaw when using the RCA audio connections.
Moreover, you should be able to find an external satellite radio add-on unit that ties in via the RCA audio in connections if no usb version is available.
Hope this helps...
Your mileage may vary.
Best to all,
R
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Click to collapse
Thank you, I was thinking about something like that (obviously via aux in and not FM modulation, since my FM doesn't work). What I would love would be something like this that then had an Android app that could be used to remotely control the unit.
I had an HD radio add on box for a Clarion NX501 years ago, I don't live in a part of the country that has a ton of HD stations and depending on where I drive I don't always have the best coverage, but it is a possibility.
typos1 said:
There are several solutions to having a poor FM reception with these units and many people buy boosters that are not actually boosters, I was just simply asking a few questions to see if any of the solutions would help you, not interested ? Then I ll shut up.
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Click to collapse
I appreciate the input, but I think there is some confusion over my needs.
I need an external FM tuner (i.e. something USB or the like with an android software solution for tuning). I have two motherboards, one has damaged traces for the radio circuitry so there is no radio audio (BT, streaming apps, etc are fine) the other that was bought has a replacement seems to have a defective tuner or something, I get nothing but static. This isn't an issue with the antenna or anything since prior to the damage on the original motherboard I had acceptable reception.
So to recap, I don't need to improve reception (tho if the replacement tuner offered better SQ or reception that wouldn't be a bad thing). I just need to find a way of getting an FM signal to the unit via USB or Aux in. Something like Rhacy would be good, but I was hoping for something a little more integrated and controllable through an android interface.
jakejm79 said:
I appreciate the input, but I think there is some confusion over my needs.
I need an external FM tuner (i.e. something USB or the like with an android software solution for tuning). I have two motherboards, one has damaged traces for the radio circuitry so there is no radio audio (BT, streaming apps, etc are fine) the other that was bought has a replacement seems to have a defective tuner or something, I get nothing but static. This isn't an issue with the antenna or anything since prior to the damage on the original motherboard I had acceptable reception.
So to recap, I don't need to improve reception (tho if the replacement tuner offered better SQ or reception that wouldn't be a bad thing). I just need to find a way of getting an FM signal to the unit via USB or Aux in. Something like Rhacy would be good, but I was hoping for something a little more integrated and controllable through an android interface.
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Click to collapse
Yes, I know what you need, we touched on a new motherboard to fix your problem, I was advising for when you fit your new motherbaord, basically, the FM reception on these units is pretty good, once you have done a few basic things.
But I didnt realise you actually had the motherboard already and your problem is static.
In that case its HIGHLY likely that you simply need to flash the MCU to solve your problem - what device do you have and what MCU version ?
I recently had a similar problem (no radio, just static) and all that was needed was an MCU update, its very common after updating.
It could also be the wrong tuner type is set in factory settings, have you tried playing around with them ?
typos1 said:
Yes, I know what you need, we touched on a new motherboard to fix your problem, I was advising for when you fit your new motherbaord, basically, the FM reception on these units is pretty good, once you have done a few basic things.
But I didnt realise you actually had the motherboard already and your problem is static.
In that case its HIGHLY likely that you simply need to flash the MCU to solve your problem - what device do you have and what MCU version ?
I recently had a similar problem (no radio, just static) and all that was needed was an MCU update, its very common after updating.
It could also be the wrong tuner type is set in factory settings, have you tried playing around with them ?
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Thank you for the MCU mentioning, you could be onto something, the new mobo didn't behave exactly like my old one, I had issues trying to get my phone to pair with BT (though that could be due to new MAC address but same BT device name, I didn't work too hard on it since the radio issue was more pressing). But also the buttons on the front acted a little weird, like normally when I have one of the MTC apps open (radio, their music player, etc) if I hit the home button on the front of the unit it would keep that app playing but return me to the home screen, with the new mobo it closes the app like I pressed the back button, have to press the soft home button in the top left of the screen to keep it playing music.
I have the old mobo back in now, I will try and see what the MCU version is on that and then install the new mobo and see if its the same or different and try upgrading it.
I did try all the different options for the radio device under the factory settings menu, but all but one (the original one selected) resulted in just silence rather than static.
jakejm79 said:
Thank you for the MCU mentioning, you could be onto something, the new mobo didn't behave exactly like my old one, I had issues trying to get my phone to pair with BT (though that could be due to new MAC address but same BT device name, I didn't work too hard on it since the radio issue was more pressing). But also the buttons on the front acted a little weird, like normally when I have one of the MTC apps open (radio, their music player, etc) if I hit the home button on the front of the unit it would keep that app playing but return me to the home screen, with the new mobo it closes the app like I pressed the back button, have to press the soft home button in the top left of the screen to keep it playing music.
I have the old mobo back in now, I will try and see what the MCU version is on that and then install the new mobo and see if its the same or different and try upgrading it.
I did try all the different options for the radio device under the factory settings menu, but all but one (the original one selected) resulted in just silence rather than static.
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You will probably have to try different BT devices in factory settings as well. What MCU version is your new mobo ?