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Hi there...
i cant charge my XDA anymore. First i thought it was the battery, so i bought a new one...a 1800mAh...but still .. no chance to charge...i tried the cradle and an additional sync cable that i bought. i think the charging circuit might be dodgy, but i cant say for sure....any ideas? Sync works perfect btw.
Charger?
Charger works?
maybe its charger not battery fault?
Well i tried 2 different ones...one of them is USB sync and charge...the other one the standard cradle.
the XDA itself works perfect....but the battery will run out soon....
What it says when i try to upgrade the OS is that i should plug in the power...so the phone wont reckognize that power is connected.
i have no idea what to do. i think the guy who owned it before killed it by using a non-original powersupply. he charged it with 1,9A. Might be too much and fried some stuff...strange that everything else works.
im stuck in a RS Upgrade now that i cant finish. not enough power...
pretty expensive piece of trash.....
i hope someone out there has an idea
I took the XDA apart and measured the components while having USB Power connected....apparently there is a SMD part called FO, made of transparent material, could be a fuse. input on that part is 5V but there is no voltage on the other side...so it might be broken.
i wanna try to brigde it, but im not sure what excactly this FO part is.
its close to the power/data connector....
i would be thankful if someone could tell me what it is....
I bridged the FO with a lil wire....now the XDA charges again...
but i will keep looking for a new FO...want to do a proper job...
if anyone want pics, i made some of the part and the solution...
cheers folks, another problem solved
aquasesh said:
I bridged the FO with a lil wire....now the XDA charges again...
but i will keep looking for a new FO...want to do a proper job...
if anyone want pics, i made some of the part and the solution...
cheers folks, another problem solved
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excellent work!!!
The O in FO is really a zero: "Fuse zero". If you open it again, could you make a few pictures so we can all see where it is. This may help quite a few others who have a non-charging XDA... You shouldn't be too worried about it, and unless you can read the writing on the SMD part, you won't know the rating of the fuse to replace it with. Detailed photos might help someone here identify the proper fuse.
XDA Charge Fault
I too have the same fault. Can you show where exactly this FO fuse is on the board please? Thanks very much for your time.
Hello... thanks for the praise, but it was more a shot in the dark and i was just lucky. Fortunately i made some pics straight away. Unfortunately i hade trouble with the macro and the focus...but i guess i have some pretty nice shots.
Anyway...you can see where i soldered and what the part looks like.
Sorry for the bad soldering...but its just temporary
XDA Charging Fault
Thanks for those great pictures. I eventually found the F0 fuse you described. I put a multimeter over it and found there to be continuity!
My charger is of a USB type and kicks out 4.9volts. Do you think this is enough to charge the xda?
It is a Brando sync charger and was only cheap. I haven't got a 240volt charger cos i brought it off ebay.
Do you think that if i bridge the wire out like you have then maybe it might charge?
From the looks of your picture the F0 fuse looks ok (no broken link) this is why i ask!
Thanks for your time and well done!
I found that you have to make sure you measure minus on ground...otherwise it wont work...just pick one of the lil round ground points or the thick copper border surrounding the PCB and hold the minus of your multimeter on that.
you might see that the input of F0 has 4,7-4,9V, but the output has 0V.
if thats so you have to either replace or bridge F0. you can do that like i did...or you solder it out and just bridge the contacts.
My F0 has no broken link either...
The battery itself is a 3,7V battery type "35H10008-80"...i replaced mine with a 1800mAh which gives me 10,5h of PDA fun or 2 weeks standby...so you USB charger will do just fine...i myself charge it with USB....did the USB Cradle mod...but the charging over USB takes longer because the USB provides only 500mAh instead if the 1000mAh of the original charger....
as soon as i find out what F0 actually is (specs), i will post it...and of course replace mine...
i hope thats enough information....
Soldering...
aquasesh said:
as soon as i find out what F0 actually is (specs), i will post it...and of course replace mine...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excellent pictures, and thanks for posting them.
The soldering job itself. Well... Ehm... How do I say... My estimate is that with your present skills the risk of future damage by not having a fuse there is smaller than the risks of further damage if you go in there again.
Soldering wires becomes way, way easier if you first tin the ends of the wire before trying to solder the wire to anything else. After tinning the ends, you can clip them with wire cutters so that they're only as long as you need them to be.
In this particular case, I would have tinned a tiny and much thinner piece of non-insulated wire, cut it to the length of the fuse, held it in place with something and quickly touched the ends with the soldering iron.
For jobs like this, if you have the luxury of a temperature-regulated soldering station, you may want to experiment how low you can set the temperature to still melt the particular type of solder used on a board, and use the smallest tip you have.
(No worries, I was absolutely lousy at soldering until I had a true electro-wizard as a roommate for a few years.)
Thanks for the advice...im really lousy, my old man is electronic engineer...he would kick my ass if he would see what i've done..lol
well...i guess i have to open it again and redo the whole process...but maybe i just wait til i get a new F0 and solder that in...i soldered some SMDs in the last weeks, so i hope i wont srew that up...
can someone tell me what this F0 is, and how can i find out what specs it has?
XDA Charging Fault
Thanks aquasesh for your help it looks like that's where my problem lies!
Cheers ,
MJ
Hello,
I have Galaxy S-IV i9500 which has numerous sensors, which I am sure may be there in other high-end phones of the leading brands.
I usually play around with electronics (even though a total novice) and at times need to know the amount of current actually flowing through the wire, for example when we connect any power charger (laptop,mobile) to the device, then what is the actual current amperage the device is consuming and the charger is able to provide.
The multimeter (analog or digital) is able to measure the AC/DC voltage but not the current. For the current the technicians usually use a handheld clamp meter , which is hooked on to the wire and for a running device
Although i dont know much about the way a clamp meter is supposed to measure flowing current amperes , I assume it has to do with the circular magnetic field (flux) around the wire which is created in the direction of the current (thumbs law or something).
Looking at the Magnetic Flux sensor in S4, i have see that it responds to magentic flux created around charging objects. For example (using any sensor reading app) I can see that the magetic sensor reading fluctuates when the mobile is brought near to an active on object like a mobile or laptop charger. You can see and experiment yourself.
So just suggesting that can we make an app to use this sensor , get the magnetic field reading and maybe based on the priciples of a clamp meter can measure the amperes passing though any live wire. It doesnt have to be dead exact, a near estimate can suffice initially..
Was a wild thought by a long shot anyways, tell me to go smash my head and read about basic electronics first before giving stupid ideas.
Thanks for reading anyways.
Hi,
I was working on my HU at home. It is a Xtrons TB706APL MTCD GS. Because there is no Wifi in my Carpark I always take the unit into my flat. I have connected everything and turned the power supply on. Bad decision, because the supply voltage was set way to high. Since then the unit isn't working anymore, but it still uses around 45mA when I connect it. That's why I hope it's not 100% dead and I can maybe rescue it.
So, my question is does this units have some sort of overvoltage protection? If not, is there any other way to repair it? I have checked some parts on the circuit board visually, but nothing looks like its burned or something like that.
So here are the results of my investigations:
Both Step-Down DC-DC Converters are working until 30V and have an Overvoltage lockout. These were working after the overvoltage perfectly, but they did not have the enable Signal from the MCU.
After checking the voltage at the MCU I found out, that the 3,3V supply was only producing 0,5V. On the GS boards the voltage generator marked as "U6" is producing this voltage. Giving the unit manually 3.3V worked and the unit was booting again, so the fault was this voltage regulator "U6". Sadly, while I was checking some resistors I have shorted something and the MCU was killed, so no hope for me anymore.
But I think others with the same problem can solve it by simply replacing the voltage regulator “U6”. It is a Torex XC6202 252B, with a maximum input voltage of 20V (that’s why it was killed by overvoltage. No overvoltage lockout available with this part) and an output Voltage of 3,3V. The package type is SOT-89.
I used these schematics posted here on XDA: https://dl.xda-developers.com/4/2/1....pdf?key=lSfDKP1LExACrJB60qveOA&ts=1522213098
Hello,
I have a 12V computer FAN and I want to install onto my PX5 to cool it. If I connect the fan to the yellow wire (12V) when I turn off the motor, will the fan also turn off? Is the unit only on when the engine is started?
Thank you!
Are fans necessary on the PX5? What brand are you running? I thought they were better these days?
Yellow is direct to Battery and always on.
Red is via ignition and only on when ignition s on.
RobRoy said:
Yellow is direct to Battery and always on.
Red is via ignition and only on when ignition s on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Finally I don't install the fan unit, temperature tests do not give better results.
I have another question about the connection of the power supply. I have problemas with keeping the memory of time. I have read this one: http://bbs.xtrons.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16
In the post they say to connect the long yellow wire to the battery, but will there be battery drain problems if the unit is connected always? Can I connect it to another 12V car connection?
thanks in advance!
txesterfield said:
Finally I don't install the fan unit, temperature tests do not give better results.
I have another question about the connection of the power supply. I have problemas with keeping the memory of time. I have read this one: http://bbs.xtrons.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16
In the post they say to connect the long yellow wire to the battery, but will there be battery drain problems if the unit is connected always? Can I connect it to another 12V car connection?
thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The quoted article explains connection. Battery drain is not an issue. If unsure, suggest seeking the advice of a reputable installer.
txesterfield said:
Finally I don't install the fan unit, temperature tests do not give better results.
I have another question about the connection of the power supply. I have problemas with keeping the memory of time. I have read this one: http://bbs.xtrons.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16
In the post they say to connect the long yellow wire to the battery, but will there be battery drain problems if the unit is connected always? Can I connect it to another 12V car connection?
thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not trying to sound cruel here, but if you're connecting the long yellow wire directly to the battery, why would it drain more than connecting it to another 12V line? You're aware of how electricity works right (or maybe not)? Perhaps you should read up on current draw, direct current etc. Connecting the yellow wire direct to the battery will make no difference. My only suggestion is, if you go via battery rather than another subsystem, you add an extra fuse. Unfused wires are dangerous.
The yellow wire provides power to the clock and the memory. Nothing more. If you want the memory to be written down to NAND, you can set this in factory settings. Not a bad little hack for those who don't fancy wiring in the yellow wire, but then you might find the deep sleep function is erratic. The clock will still be lost as well, so you'll need that to update either via NTP or GPS. I believe the power consumption is around 10mA. Your average low quality phone charger delivers 1Amp.
Wire it in, forget about it.
skezza said:
Not trying to sound cruel here, but if you're connecting the long yellow wire directly to the battery, why would it drain more than connecting it to another 12V line? You're aware of how electricity works right (or maybe not)? Perhaps you should read up on current draw, direct current etc. Connecting the yellow wire direct to the battery will make no difference. My only suggestion is, if you go via battery rather than another subsystem, you add an extra fuse. Unfused wires are dangerous.
The yellow wire provides power to the clock and the memory. Nothing more. If you want the memory to be written down to NAND, you can set this in factory settings. Not a bad little hack for those who don't fancy wiring in the yellow wire, but then you might find the deep sleep function is erratic. The clock will still be lost as well, so you'll need that to update either via NTP or GPS. I believe the power consumption is around 10mA. Your average low quality phone charger delivers 1Amp.
Wire it in, forget about it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was talking to connect the yellow wire to another 12V car connection to avoid carrying the cable to the battery that I have in the trunk. My only doubt was the consumption of the unit if I had it permanently connected, but that doubt has already been resolved. I will look for a pernament 12V near my head unit to connect it.
Thanks!
txesterfield said:
I was talking to connect the yellow wire to another 12V car connection to avoid carrying the cable to the battery that I have in the trunk. My only doubt was the consumption of the unit if I had it permanently connected, but that doubt has already been resolved. I will look for a pernament 12V near my head unit to connect it.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use your central locking fuse, tap in there. Job done.
Hi, so back to the point from the thread title.
Theres reason to keep lower temperature on any device with CPU as you can really extend lifetime and avoid trootling .
Specciali for Px5 (any) android headunit which is build into car dashboard wheres can easily be 60°C in hot summer day.
theres not only CPU whats heating, theres also mosfet amlifier which can dissipate 100W of heat.
Another point to consider is that if you using animated or 3D background it uses CPU and GPU pretty much and keep it hot.
So if someone interested theres small "How to"
I found old 80mm 24V fan which works pretty ok (i put drop of oil on bearing)
1. mark fan side holes holes, dril the hole and than mark main fan hole on the top part of headunit:
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2. cut the main hole (i used angle grinder + hand grinder) than i clean scorings with instant adhesive glue mixed with sawdust.
3. To prevent corosion I paint a sheet with black spray.
4. Solder 2 cables to 3pin socket and on mainboard to switched 12V/GND. (speed signal from fan is not used)
I used 12V from 78M09 9V voltage regulator and GND from capacitor beside.
As I have 24V fan - it runs pretty quiet on 12V as it is only 50% speed. If you use 12V fan, you can connect it to output of 78M09 (9V) to low down a speed.
5. Done
What kind of difference to the temps has it made? Great job btw. Very clean install.
Top!!!!
wizzsb said:
Hi, so back to the point from the thread title.
Theres reason to keep lower temperature on any device with CPU as you can really extend lifetime and avoid trootling .
Specciali for Px5 (any) android headunit which is build into car dashboard wheres can easily be 60°C in hot summer day.
theres not only CPU whats heating, theres also mosfet amlifier which can dissipate 100W of heat.
Another point to consider is that if you using animated or 3D background it uses CPU and GPU pretty much and keep it hot.
So if someone interested theres small "How to"
I found old 80mm 24V fan which works pretty ok (i put drop of oil on bearing)
1. mark fan side holes holes, dril the hole and than mark main fan hole on the top part of headunit:
2. cut the main hole (i used angle grinder + hand grinder) than i clean scorings with instant adhesive glue mixed with sawdust.
3. To prevent corosion I paint a sheet with black spray.
4. Solder 2 cables to 3pin socket and on mainboard to switched 12V/GND. (speed signal from fan is not used)
I used 12V from 78M09 9V voltage regulator and GND from capacitor beside.
As I have 24V fan - it runs pretty quiet on 12V as it is only 50% speed. If you use 12V fan, you can connect it to output of 78M09 (9V) to low down a speed.
5. Done
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be curious on your results but in reality you are either just pulling in or pushing out hot air constantly. You have no source of cool air so I don't see this doing much of anything for you unless you are pulling in cooler air from somewhere. Heat rises and all you're going to do it saturate the back side of the dash with hot air to the point there is no more cooler air at which time the temp will probably equalize and be no better.
Dave
TT_Vert said:
I'd be curious on your results but in reality you are either just pulling in or pushing out hot air constantly. You have no source of cool air so I don't see this doing much of anything for you unless you are pulling in cooler air from somewhere. Heat rises and all you're going to do it saturate the back side of the dash with hot air to the point there is no more cooler air at which time the temp will probably equalize and be no better.
Dave
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which app can I use for temperature measuring? ideally with graph possibility (so I can test playing video or so on...)
Theres ofcourse improvement if air inside is colder than CPU/Amplifier as theres much more heat transfer if air is mooving,
but if the temperature of air is nearly the same as CPU/Amp, than you are right, but for confirm that I can make a measurement with fan and without. Theres no more hot days in this period in Denmark, so reslts will be only for first case.
I don't know the best app to be honest. With that said if the air you are blowing over the cpu is same temp as air inside the unit it won't do much. I don't know how hot the air behind a dash can get in summer but my thought is if you have a fan pumping that hot air over the hot internals it will eventually saturate the under dash air and all air will be same temp (Or close to it) unless you have the air recycling under the dash which i don't think it really does much. I could be wrong though.
Dave
So after doing some before testing in my 70 deg. F garage I didn't see any need for a fan as I never got over 115F with volume at half. I did notice however my MTCB does seem to slow down on warmer days and In Illinois we have some 100deg days in summer so I decided to do something about it. I went a bit overkill as I was just using what I had. I have a 90mm fan that will be exhausting hot air. I intentionally put it over the CPU to try to draw air right from it. I had an old heatsink/fan from an old video card that was almost the perfect size. Drilled a few holes in it just to ensure I can unscrew the CPU at a later date if I ever need to as I'm gluing this thing to the CPU. Although I suppose if I'm taking it off it's a for a reason and I could just get a different heatsink/fan for the next one. I actually am using a 40MM 24V fan pulled from an old copier or something similar years ago powered by 12V and it is pushing more air than my 12V 40mm fan was. at same voltage so I went that route. TO avoid mix/matching fans I didn't put the 12V fan in as it doesn't move much air but I did drill a hole in case I decide to add one later PLUS I wanted to have enough area for intake air as that 90MM fan moved a TON of air. Probaby too much and it may be too loud but I'll address that when the time comes. Rather than feed from the harness I just probed the bottom of the board where the main plug is an and fed off of that on the PCU. Kapton taped and soldered so we should be all good there. The two fans draw 600mA max between the two but i'm not seeing that much current draw right now. Without further ado here is what I've got right now. Any opinions are welcomed. I plan to put plugs everywhere so I don't have to cut/unsolder if I ever disassemble this thing again.. I'm also going to put a few small heat sinks on a few of the other chips that get warm, particularly the two to the left of the CPU which may be the amp chips. Anyone have any idea which will get hottest during use? Thus far just those two to the right of the cpu get warm.
Dave
Dave
TT_Vert said:
So after doing some before testing in my 70 deg. F garage I didn't see any need for a fan as I never got over 115F with volume at half.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So which apk did you use for measuring of CPU temp?
or you using infra termometer?
using an IR thermometer. I've not found a program w/ accurate CPU temps. It jumps by 5C all the time up and down.
Dave
Cooling the PX5 CPU
Hi
I ordered this Aikenuo 25m x 20mm x 0.15mm Thermal Adhesive Tape,High performance Thermal Double Side Tapes Cooling Pad Apply to Heatsink
and that : StarTech.com 1U 60x10mm Socket 7/370 CPU Cooler Fan w/Copper Heatsink & TX3 -
Both are available worldwide on Amazon so try your local amazon. Price may differ though. Cheapest are UK and US
I put the tape under the copper heatsink and sticked the whole structure to the original PX5 motherboard heatsink.
Inside the beast:
I connected the fan's power to ground and accessory.
Temperature readings with CPUZ dropped a good 20° Celsius idling at 30° and rising to 60-65 at full load.
Idle :
Loaded with Youtube/Maps/Deezer and some other stuff :
Fix attachments please.
Can you explain where to connect fan on board?
blinkme2028 said:
Fix attachments please.
Can you explain where to connect fan on board?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not connected on the mainboard.
As you will see from second picture, I have connected the fan to an extension cable that runs out of the back of the HU through one of the empty holes then wired the cable to the acc and ground.
It's back in the car now so cannot make picture.
Ah also, you only have one shot with the tape, it is super uber mega sticky and cures with heat so try to position the copper radiator first before final sticking and aim well as it will be extremely hard to reposition and/or remove unless you unscrew the cpu board to avoid breaking the whole thing !
And do not forget to remove the metal cpu fixture from the heatsink which means you will need to unscrew the fan to get this metal thing out and screw the fan back
So as others have posted here, I've got serious USB issues for months now. I first thought it's the cold weather, but after a week or three with nice weather above zero all the time, and now even 16C I still have issues. I tried to find the issue today, and removed everything from the radio that could interfere. Nothing at all!
I have a USB hub that I connect with a LED in it that indicates there's power. That LED is always on when I plug it in, so there's power, but the HU detects nothing that I plug in. Not with, or without the hub. Nothing from TPMS or DAB+. The USB Controller app also detects nothing.
Everything is screwed down properly it seems, and giving a push on everything doesn't change anything. I'm on the latest Malysk ROM with the so-called software fix, but that doesn't help either. Also manually executing the fix doesn't help. Even resetting the USB via the app doesn't work anymore.
I'm afraid my USB just completely died on my now. I've tried to reboot a few times, and still nothing.
I really don't want to lose DAB+ and TPMS. That's really useful if you're used to it. Going back to commercials and muddy sounds from FM is such a shame!
Any idea what I can do? I don't think I can replace the USB chip myself without ruining the complete unit. Replace SoM? Replace motherboard? Buy a new unit? Is anyone aware of new units with the proper USB chip? Maybe those PX6 ones?
btw, checked my board and it says HCT-PX5-REV4.0.
And now my sound is completely screwed up as well. Very soft and without bass. As if my amp doesn't really start anymore, anyone an idea which wire to check for that?
To me it sounds as if your MCU does not work properly. I guess that you have a faulty soldering joint. USB devices can draw quite a current from the board. It may be that this caused a soldering joint to crack.
I would go for an optical inspection first. Check if the SOM is plugged in properly and that no capacitors are blown as well.
f465gt said:
To me it sounds as if your MCU does not work properly. I guess that you have a faulty soldering joint. USB devices can draw quite a current from the board. It may be that this caused a soldering joint to crack.
I would go for an optical inspection first. Check if the SOM is plugged in properly and that no capacitors are blown as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Already tried and check that. Nothing weird to see.
But guess what?! It suddenly worked now for 2 days!! Why/how?! It's so unreliable, not sure when it will break again.
It really looks like either temperature or soldering issues. I would go for an optical inspection, just to make sure that no wires are loose or pins are broken.
f465gt said:
It really looks like either temperature or soldering issues. I would go for an optical inspection, just to make sure that no wires are loose or pins are broken.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Already checked. Nothing weird to see. It has been 10+ degrees for weeks so I doubt it's the temperature.
I don't mean the outside temperatures. The unit heats up while being used. This causes bad soldering joints to get loose. Perhaps it is also a good idea to check the voltage supply. There should be some sort of voltage regulator that heats up. If e. g. the 5V regulator fails, your unit will show such a behaviour. I vaguely can remember that on the S160 units there was sometimes such an issue. Somewhere around here there were some schematics. Search for them.
f465gt said:
I don't mean the outside temperatures. The unit heats up while being used. This causes bad soldering joints to get loose. Perhaps it is also a good idea to check the voltage supply. There should be some sort of voltage regulator that heats up. If e. g. the 5V regulator fails, your unit will show such a behaviour. I vaguely can remember that on the S160 units there was sometimes such an issue. Somewhere around here there were some schematics. Search for them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've got a 12V big fan on top and heatsinks on everything. The CPU never goes above 50C.
But I doubt heat is an issue after a few seconds when the system has booted.
Ah, then the MCU crashed during boot. Does your car interrupt the ACC power while cranking? If so it is a good idea to add a relay box that switches permanent battery voltage over to the ACC line for a few seconds. I am using this one: https://www.amazon.de/Phonocar-Spannungsstabilisator-Fahrzeuge-Start-Automatik/dp/B00AK95QUA
This is an actual relay, not just some diodes and capacitors.
https://www.roadnav.com/forum/knowl...lay-buffer-radio-power-on-during-engine-start