Related
We all want better battery life, no question, more than processor speed (some of us even underclock), resolution, 3D drivers; pretty much everything takes second place in our hearts to battery life. In response to that demand there are a lot of companies out there selling batteries for our phones either at the same mAh rating of the OEM (the one that came with the phone), a higher mAh rating but the battery's the same dimensions as the OEM and does not require a deeper cover and batteries that are both larger in capacity and physical size -- or so they allege. Usually these batteries are cheaper than the OEM's, mAh for mAh at least. By the way, mAh ratings, or milliamp hours, think of it in terms of the size of a gas tank you installed in your car. The higher the figure, the longer you can use your phone.
Got a Nexus One? Say hello to our sister thread! No wait, just go straight to forum.batteryboss.org right now, forget this thread.
There are battery threads all over XDA but only with vague data so I invested in equipment to rate the batteries myself, under the guidance of electrogeniuses as you can read in this thread, in order to tell you what to expect in addition to giving you figures such as how many amp hours you get on the dollar as maybe a cheap battery with an exaggerated or oddly defined rating is worth getting over an expensive and better one if you're on a budget. Not counting all the man hours that Telek, amit77 and I have put into coming up with the most reliable way to produce data, so far I've spent over $200 on different equipment to get to where we are now. By the way, OEM = made by the people who made the battery that came with your phone. I'm not asking you to donate yet or reimburse me for my troubles, rather I'd like you, the next time you buy a battery I haven't already tested, to mail it to me first so I can run a couple tests after which I will FedEx it to you at my expense. If that interests you, PM me. If you are a battery manufacturer or reseller and you stand by your claims and trust me to run legitimate tests on it that are consistent with every other test I publish in terms of procedure, PM me or post publicly.
The procedure:
I am using the Computerized Battery Analyzer III. The software which is somewhat sophisticated plots out milliamp hours (mAh) burnt over the descent of voltage from 4.14V to 3.5V which we have determined to be the level of voltage in the battery at which point the phone decides to stop charging itself and decides it's time to turn itself off because it's too low on juice. The CBA software plots out data in graphs, PDFs, CSVs, the whole deal. Looks a little like this:
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In order to produce the best real-world information, numbers that are relevant to you and not just to academics, I charge the batteries with the phone as you do until the phone decides the battery is charged which for the Rhodium/Touch Pro2/Tilt 2 is 4.14 volts regardless of capacity rating. I hook the batteries up to the CBA which is plugged into my computer. With the software that came with the CBA I have the CBA test the batteries at 250mA, a current in the neighborhood of what the average user would average were he to do his thing (including having push-mail fired up with the screen on bright, downloading and browsing rss feeds, the occasional call, bubblebreaker etc) without interruption. To get a better idea of what kind of current you're using when doing various things use the attached acbPowerMeter software. I'm not Geraldo Rivera out to get the third party guys that exaggerate their numbers a little bit nor am I here to rewrite Wikipedia's take on capacity calculation industry standards. If you're a manufacturer or a battery company sympathizer and want to break my balls about voltage cutoffs, read this simple explanation which I feel sums up our position well. The point, in short, of all of this is to supply you with information that will help you choose which battery to buy.
Doug Simmons
Test results and other information.
This table is a hotlinked image to data on the mother site of this, batteryboss.org on which the actual links work. Hit refresh if you've been here before in case your browser cached the image of the table.
Updates:
August 7th: First did a dry run then I the AMZER 1800mAh for the EVO. So far it's in first place for being the biggest ripoff on the gallon. First place.
August 5th: Received Carl's AMZER 1800mAh for EVO, doing a dry run discharge now, hopefully get some data for you tomorrow morning.
July 28th: Finished Carl's Seidio 3500mAh for EVO 4G. Seems the Seidios all rate at 81% of their claim.
July 6th: Completed round one of EVO stock (John Doward). Got the coveted Amzer 1800 and a Seidio 3500, both EVO, en route thanks to Carl Willi.
June 12th: Completed first run of a Mugen 3200mAh for the Hero. Both disappointing and unsurprising. Most cost ineffective battery I've tested.
June 11th: Jasper and Dan's batteries on the way back to them. Thanks again. Hey, Mugen 3200 for Hero and EVO 4G stock on their way! Another update, just received that Mugen 3200, charging now.
June 10th: Completed testing for a no name Hero battery and the stock Incredible battery with the EVO 4G stock on its way. Nice. Returning those batteries to my man Dan and my other man Jasper.
June 9th: Seems a seller I linked may be committing fraud. Please read.
June 7th: First test complete of an oversized no name Hero battery, second one in progress.
April 26th: Got some press. And a little more.
April 15th: Hoo-F'ing-ray, we have a winner, Wade's HTC 2150mAh clocks in exactly at 2150! high five, HTC!
April 14th: Taking the HTC 2150mAh for a spin right now. Finally! Thank you Deathmonkey!April 12th: Rotohammer's Seidio 1600mAh for the N1 has arrived, charging. Exact dimensions as OEM, wish I had a scale.
April 9th: In a continued effort to outdo himself Rotohammer just ordered a 2400mAh-rated Cameron Sino, on its way to me. Lucky I got his attention. Extremely helpful. Thanks.
April 8th: N1 Seidio 1600mAh should show up today, thanks to Rotohammer.
April 3rd: Finished N1 Seidio 3200mAh, five runs. Learned that it's rated slightly more honestly than Mugen (not saying much) but is the most expensive battery per tested amp hour. Still, highest capacity. I got a new and fast and really badass server and now have a our own forum which you can fire up at forum.batteryboss.org. Finished the new Andida for the TP2, pretty weak, but for some of you the price may be right.
March 30th: Completed dry run of a Seidio 3200mAh for the N1. Not fantastic but Seidio has taken the lead against Mugen in honesty.
March 29th: Mugen "engineer" responds (see table). Rotohammer's Seidio arrived, charging now baby, yeah! Should be very interesting. Thanks Roto.
March 27th: Shawn's OEM a fake (but a well performing fake). Activity building in the Nexus One thread. Mugen sent me an exchange for Jeremy's and it sucks even more.
March 20th: Just ran the first test of the Nexus One's OEM, not bad.
March 18th: Just ordered a Google Nexus One. I got an extra battery so the first thing I'm using this for is to prepare a battery for testing. Need to figure out if it has different voltage cutoffs, need to figure out how to present the data and what to do with my site, .. hmmm.
March 16th: Mugen wants me to send me another battery to test, I agreed and mailed them back Jeremy's battery. Also mailed Sean/Telek his OEM 1500mAh. Thank you both fellas. Also DeathmonkeyGTX offered to sponsor a test of the HTC 2150mAh -- thank you!
March 13th: Finished no name #2 3600mAh (2466mAh ). In search of voltage cutoffs for Touch Pro/Fuze, please help.
March 12th: Mugen has expressed interest in sending me another battery to test, I expressed willingness. And to you I express curiosity into which device to expand the testing.
March 8th:Finished round two of no name #2 and fake OEM #2. Waiting on another ebay OEM to verify authenticity and a fresh Andida courtesy of my main man Shawn Martell.
March 7th:Added intriguing head to head chart matches.
March 6th:Completed a few more including fresh standard legit OEM, also discovered two counterfeits.
March 2nd: Completed no name #1, cheapest per mAh so far. Dropped Jason's battery off in the mail as promised.
Feb 28th: Completed tests of the Seidio, mailing it to jasonweaver.
Feb 27th: Just received Seidio 1750mAh from jasonweaver in addition to 1500mAh no name ebay cheapo. Nice.
Feb 27th: Mugen 1800mAh testing completed, table updated. Thank you very much jcr916 who bought the battery and had it shipped to me, now I'm going to mail it to him.
Feb 22nd: Thank you jasonweaver and jcr916 who are hooking me up with a barely-used Seidio and a brand new Mugen 1800mAh respectively. Those test results should be interesting as from what I've gathered those two brands have the best reputation and are priced accordingly so let's see if they deserve it.
Telek and I just laid down some dough for five more batteries this weekend. So I'll have a lot of testing to do shortly. Stay tuned for the results!
Batteries I would like to test next so PM me if you want to help. New and used batteries welcome.
AT&T/HTC 2150mAh Pricey worth it. Really want to test this one. *En route*
HTC 2150mAh - Same model as AT&T but cheaper, doesn't come with door. *En route (same battery)*
Cameron Sino - Found five favorable/neutral reports.
A new Seidio 1750mAh - Tested a used one already but need data on a fresh battery.
Google Froogle search for more.
Tips and other reflections:
AT&T people, beware that if you order a battery that requires a deeper back cover but is for the Touch Pro2 and not the AT&T Tilt 2 that the cover may not have a hole for the PTT button nor may it latch on. Maybe you can burn one through with a hot screwdriver or you could just crazy glue. Beware of the usual dangers of ebay obviously, only use sellers with high ratings and consider buying straight from the company's website or Amazon or a name you've heard of. I have found over two counterfeits from sellers with high ratings. Read your phone's warranty before using a third party battery. Get the return policy before you buy. If you do get burnt with a counterfeit OEM, immediately give negative feedback using language like "counterfeit" and email the seller requesting both immediate restitution and that they remove their listings of that particular battery or at the least any reference in the listing to the battery being either an OEM or giving an OEM-like serial number, anything misleading, and in return offer to neutralize negative feedback. Reporting fraud to ebay is up to you but I would take those steps first. It's a longshot but the information we really want from the dealer is their supplier but so far I haven't been able to get any of them to cough that information up. If you're not sure if the thing's a counterfeit and want to find out, send it to me to test.
Testing hardware:
I am using the West Mountain Radio CBA III (Computerized Battery Analyzer) which you can buy along with some toys from these guys for $149. I bought something else from them, didn't like it and they offered to shave the cost of the thing I didn't want off the price of the CBA III without even asking me to return it. Good people. The CBA III is the most accurate and reliable device we could find for these testing purposes and we spent many hours arriving at the final testing procedure. No corners cut. There is no indication whatsoever that the results it's produced are inaccurate, certainly not relative to each other given its consistency. All testing procedures were identical including the current of 250mA, starting voltage and bottom cutoff (4.14V and 3.5V respectively, the top and bottom cutoffs of the Touch Pro2, which I use to charge the batteries with original HTC wall charger). The 250mA current may be a little high and won't produce as flattering a result versus a 100mA current, but it's both a normal current we burn when we're doing stuff on the phone, it keeps each of the three tests inside six hours usually and most importantly we use that current on every single test of every single battery so this is a standardized test. Finally the OEMs get 95% of their claimed rating on this current so we believe that that current is the sweet spot to supply you with information to use to buy your next battery.
Doug Simmons
Excellent thread - although from my experience with LiIon devices:
- the device itself typically has poor ability to determine battery usage
- you really need an actual external ammeter to monitor usage
With payment terminals that I used to work on the external ammeter (which I assume was accurate) was up to 15% off what the terminal itself reported - and wasn't consistent depending on the amount of current draw. The ability for the batteries themselves to accurately report their % remaning was also highly inaccurate and can only be used as a guideline. YMMV.
Thanks .. though you may realize this, my main interest is not in current at a given point but in total consumption from a full charge to when it dies. You're saying in order to get a definitive result, solid enough to recommend one thing over another, I need such a device to get beyond bad indications and confounding variables? Or with a difference between a few hundred mAhs over a few trials sound like enough to determine a clear winner, but ideally have an ammeter? Any cheap ammeters that not only clock the current but plot it down over time or do whatever it takes to yield the total? Not too familiar with these things, just a quick glance at wikipedia.
Well honestly I have no idea how either the battery or the TP2 fares for current reading.
I think you'd have to do a benchmark - find some way of running the same task on the TP2 that will use the same amount of battery power and run it a few times from a full battery charge. See if the mAh readings are consistent. My guess, however, is that the readings are going to be quite different which will be a combination of the battery AND reporting method. Even using an external battery reconditioner we'd get +/- 10% on successive runs with the same battery. The only way you could tell that the reconditioner was working was the batteries would go from 30 mins runtime to 90 mins after reconditioning.
Back when I did my testing I used a custom designed unit - had a arm7 microcontroller and threw a resistor in series and constantly monitored the voltage drop to determine current usage and plotted it that way. Most multimeters that you can hook up to your computer don't have high enough sampling rates or are too expensive.
how the frak do you delete messages? duplicate post...
Telek said:
how the frak do you delete messages? duplicate post...
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dupe all you want, need this thing bumped.. working hard on it, getting some good info together.
As Telek said an external test is the only reliable way to get accurate results. The best way to do this to apply the same resistive drain to all of the batteries and charging them all with the same charger. A .5c drain should be safe enough to drain in a reasonable amount of time with out over heating the battery.
The main factor we need to know as far as the device is concerned is what the cutoff voltage is set at. LI-ion batteries can be drained down to less the 3v safely and most good ones have protection circuits that cut them off above 2.7v. None of that will matter if HTC has the device set to cutoff at 3.2v or higher.
Once the cutoff V is known then you time the drain from full charge to C/O.
I've done a lot of battery pack building and maintaining in radio controlled hobby's. With out having access to the right equipment this is going to be a daunting task and quite possibly more expensive than buying a few batteries. Hopefully the right person will see this thread and will step up to do the testing.
anit77 said:
As Telek said an external test is the only reliable way to get accurate results. The best way to do this to apply the same resistive drain to all of the batteries and charging them all with the same charger. A .5c drain should be safe enough to drain in a reasonable amount of time with out over heating the battery.
The main factor we need to know as far as the device is concerned is what the cutoff voltage is set at. LI-ion batteries can be drained down to less the 3v safely and most good ones have protection circuits that cut them off above 2.7v. None of that will matter if HTC has the device set to cutoff at 3.2v or higher.
Once the cutoff V is known then you time the drain from full charge to C/O.
I've done a lot of battery pack building and maintaining in radio controlled hobby's. With out having access to the right equipment this is going to be a daunting task and quite possibly more expensive than buying a few batteries. Hopefully the right person will see this thread and will step up to do the testing.
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Okay well in the interests of making this thread epically informative I am almost willing to buy myself an ammeter. Could you please recommend one that is both cheap and capable of getting the job done for something smaller than a car battery and a device with such settings to fine-tune? Something that I can rig up to the battery's contacts which are so thinly spaced together without a soldering iron? Here's a list...
Well for starters do you want to test the phone + battery or just the battery?
Testing the battery alone will be a LOT easier - in fact a general test can be done with just a heavy duty resistor and a voltmeter. Watch how long it takes the battery to go from full charge to C/O and you've got your mAh rating. I'd recommend this as it's easy and cheap.
If you want to check actual phone usage time and compare it to whatever reading you get via software you'll need to build a little rig that allows you to place the battery externally with leads running to the battery contacts in the phone. That part is not as hard as it sounds. However what that you're going to need some sort of way of tracking the current flow with high precision and high frequency. If you're any good with microcontrollers that can be done easily, otherwise I'm not sure. I'll check and see if I can find anything that would qualify.
Telek said:
Well for starters do you want to test the phone + battery or just the battery? Testing the battery alone will be a LOT easier - in fact a general test can be done with just a heavy duty resistor and a voltmeter. Watch how long it takes the battery to go from full charge to C/O and you've got your mAh rating. I'd recommend this as it's easy and cheap.
If you want to check actual phone usage time and compare it to whatever reading you get via software you'll need to build a little rig that allows you to place the battery externally with leads running to the battery contacts in the phone. That part is not as hard as it sounds. However what that you're going to need some sort of way of tracking the current flow with high precision and high frequency. If you're any good with microcontrollers that can be done easily, otherwise I'm not sure. I'll check and see if I can find anything that would qualify.
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C'mon man, obviously I want the easier way that satisfactorily satisfies what I want to know without crazy wiring and microcontrollers. Just want to know how many milliamp hours these two suckers and any other batteries I might get along the way compare to each other, a drag race. I'll leave that other stuff to the guys from Popular Mechanics.
We also need to consider the resolution needed for such a device.
For example a 5.0V ADC (providing 0-5V range) at 16-bit resolution for a current shunt designed to provide a 50mV drop at 1A is going to give you 1.53mA resolution (5V 16-bit = 0.0763mV resolution; 0-50mV range = 655 binary range = 1.53mA range). Conveniently a 3.3V range for the ADC gives almost exactly 1mA resolution which is perfect.
However I can't find any cheap ready-to-go data loggers with that resolution and range.
Now if you wanted to make the setup a little more complicated and toss a simple op-amp into there you could probably get away with something like this:
http://www.dataq.com/products/startkit/di194rs.htm
$25 plus a few bucks to build a simple op-amp circuit (check out http://www.chem.uoa.gr/Applets/AppletOpAmps/Appl_OpAmps2.html with values 1kO and 2000kO V1=0.005V and V2=0) use the computer PSU to provide +/- 12V to the amp will give you ~ +/- 10V operational range (perfect for the data logger) and you'll get 2mA resolution with 240Hz sampling - far from perfect but sufficient to actually do some decent measurements of actual current draw from the phone. Log both the shunt resistor voltage drop through the op-amp and the raw battery voltage and you've got a nice little power monitor that can give you detailed measurements of how much power every little thing in your phone takes.
Ok so grab yourself one of these:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=HPC1210JCT-ND
Or any generic 10 ohm resistor capable of dissipating at least 5W (wire-wound will work). Ask at your local electronics shop and they can probably help you. Should cost less than $20 including the multimeter.
It'll draw about 700mA and dissipate about 5W (so it'll get hot, should put a small fan on it) and should dissipate your battery in about 2 hours. Combine with a voltmeter where you write the measurements down at least every couple of minutes and that will allow you to plot the voltage drop curve and calculate the mAh rating of the battery.
Well if you can come up with what you think the right standardized procedures and various levels of this and that, again standardized, to use to test multiple batteries from multiple manufacturers of varying mAh claims (but presumably of the same voltage?) just to get a total mAh versus that of the OEM, and then tell me which device to buy to make that happen, I could contact these various companies, tell them to send me their superbattery for me to test accurately to see if they are legit and, in exchange for sending me the battery, I'll list the results on either of my sites which are fairly trafficked, enough for a company to want to give away a battery if it meant getting their claims verified in front of an audience thirsty for milliamp hours.
You see where I'm going with this?
Telek said:
Ok so grab yourself one of these:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=HPC1210JCT-ND
Or any generic 10 ohm resistor capable of dissipating at least 5W (wire-wound will work). Ask at your local electronics shop and they can probably help you. Should cost less than $20 including the multimeter.
It'll draw about 700mA and dissipate about 5W (so it'll get hot, should put a small fan on it) and should dissipate your battery in about 2 hours. Combine with a voltmeter where you write the measurements down at least every couple of minutes and that will allow you to plot the voltage drop curve and calculate the mAh rating of the battery.
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I've got a Radio Shack down the block. But 700mA is maybe unnecessarily/excessively strong -- firstly because running batteries hot and heavy wears them out over time so if I keep testing new batteries against one oem .. ahh nevermind i guess that wouldn't batter but normal usage is between 30-400mA. How many ohms might yield roughly 250, 300mA? Think I'd get lucky at RatShack?
Running batteries at 1/2 their capacity is generally pretty safe for full discharge - so a 1500mAh battery discharging at 700mA should be fine - not really considered "hot & heavy".
You could go 20 ohm (2.5W discharge 350mA) and monitor over 4-5 hours then, just means more work for you since you're going to need to record the voltage over time.
I somehow doubt that RadioShack would carry any sort of resistors like this, but a general purpose electronics hobby shop should.
Thanks you very much with this test. Very instructive.
A question:
What is the best PocketPC software for mesuring mAh. I've try AbcPower, but I don't think it's very accurate when charging. normally, 500mA via PC USB.
powerguard
I believe it's powerguard which is frickin' awesome for all things battery-related (.. born on xda) but I can't get the consumption thing to tally which doesn't really help this project. That's either because the software doesn't like our phone or because the shareware is crippled not to do that among some other things. Other than this powerguard and abcpowermeter, I am unaware of any other WinMo app that will count up the consumption. So I sent the guy some euros (five, he asked for three) to get a registration file hoping that will do the trick but man he went out of his way to make it a pain in the balls to register this thing. Hope he checks his email soon because I want this thing unleashed.
By the way for those of you living in 10% increment land on your battery meters, grab Chainfire's 1% battery driver for Euro and apparently AT&T Touch Pro2s (gsm?) or Quentin-'s 1% driver for Tmo, Sprint and Verizon (I guess any cdma tp2). After you install either of those you'd better check your battery drain to make sure you didn't install the wrong one (you can tell if you notice your phone is using a lot more juice). If you did, not to worry, they are uninstallable.
Doug
anit77 said:
Hopefully the right person will see this thread and will step up to do the testing.
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I want to be that guy. I'm willing to put the time, money and patience into it. Only snag is is that I'm not a physicist/electrical engineer like you two.
What I want to set out to do here is have a means of performing standardized testing with the same equipment with the same settings with me doing the same things (including how frequently I watch it and what math I do at the end) each time in order to get true and consistently true mAh until c/o ratings, true enough to satisfy third party battery companies/dealers (and people who actually read and use what I post) that I've got a fair and trustworthy procedure to see if their batteries live up to their claims, posting tables of batteries, mAh, cost of the battery and cost per mAh, something like that, both here and on my website for people to read and copy to their own sites and forum threads.
I reread your comments a couple more times. What I guess I need to do is find out what the cutoff voltage is for this phone (do I do that by eyeballing the mV readings on this powerguard software until the phone clicks off or is additional equipment necessary?). Then I need to get myself this data logger -- nope, just a 10 ohm resistor and maybe this voltmeter or perhaps something like this would make this simpler? What's my shopping cart?
Once I have some setup like that I fully discharge a battery then charge it up with the phone off then connect it both to the resistor and the voltmeter, plot out the readings every three minutes until it hits the voltage cutoff point, repeat X amount of times, then crank out some math to figure out a total mAh reading from start to cutoff point (we'll discuss that later...) and finally I'm good? Something like that? How am I doing?
Just hit me with the shopping cart and I'll get that out of the way and read this while it all ships then check back here.
The goal is to generate and disseminate valuable information on something very mysterious and dubious. People who make these things know we have no idea how to do what we're fixin' to do in this thread so why not claim wild ratings for the same dimensions and get more people to buy our stuff? Let's tell 'em why and maybe score some free batteries along the way for our troubles.
This looks like it'd be perfect. but it's $120. You be able to test most any battery too. There's tons of this type stuff in R/C and electronics hobby sites. It just doing the searching needed to find what your looking for.
I'd say make a new thread for taking donations to buy one. PM a mod or Flar and ask where to post it or if they'll put links to the thread in some of the sub forums and you'd get people with other phone that'd be interested too. Could be a way to make some extra cash as well. If you don't want to deal with a progect of this size I'm sure you'd be able to find someone who is.
When I got my G5 (Verizon VS987) I also got a spare battery and charging dock as a promotional extra.
The charging dock is connected to the USB port on my PC. When I swap batteries I put the discharged one in the charging dock and remove it when the lights indicate it's fully charged. If I don't swap batteries for a few days I'll stick it back into the charging dock for the few minutes it takes to bring it back to full charge.
Now I notice one battery is swollen, as if from charging too fast or ???
It still fits into the phone with some difficulty but it does fit.
I'm wondering if I should discard it or keep using it, wondering if it can damage the phone?
Any thoughts?
Do not use the swollen battery any more. Do not toss it in regular trash either - find an authorized battery recycling operation in your area. If you can't locate one immediately, store the battery in a dry, cool spot with electrical tape over the contacts until you can dispose of it properly. Continued use may cause the battery to fail and catch fire and/or explode.
Batteries can swell due to overcharging, but also wear and tear aging with frequent full charge cycles. If you've been using the battery daily for about a year it is not uncommon for it to show such signs of wear. Failure rates are also more common with cheaper, off-brand batteries that aren't made as well to begin with. Buy a replacement battery and make sure it is OEM quality.
I've had this happen once before with a Motorola V3 battery so you see how long ago that was!
I believe it's the USB port allowing charging at a faster rate than the factory charger? Two requirements, the charge must be from a USB port and the battery must be very discharged.
The swollen battery is genuine LG, sent direct from LG, whatever quality that might be. Both the swollen Motorola batteries continued to work just fine in the V3, the LG battery works but is VERY difficult to remove and is now out of the phone forever.
xs11e said:
I've had this happen once before with a Motorola V3 battery so you see how long ago that was!
I believe it's the USB port allowing charging at a faster rate than the factory charger? Two requirements, the charge must be from a USB port and the battery must be very discharged.
The swollen battery is genuine LG, sent direct from LG, whatever quality that might be. Both the swollen Motorola batteries continued to work just fine in the V3, the LG battery works but is VERY difficult to remove and is now out of the phone forever.
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It's not a problem of faster charging, but overcharging. The longer and more often a battery is charged 100% and left there, the quicker it wears out. If the battery is about a year old with daily use like this, a bit of swelling isn't unexpected.
There is no immediate threat from swelling but it is the start of failure if allowed to continue use. You surely don't want it expanding inside the phone from heat until it gets stuck and/or cause GPS, volume or other contacts to mess up by expanding the frame, etc.
Batteries aren't too expensive so order another one.
Not sure I agree, evidence seems to point to heat as the culprit since the battery wasn't charged that often.
Anyway, OEM batteries are available on eBay for under $12 and one should arrive Monday.
xs11e said:
Not sure I agree, evidence seems to point to heat as the culprit since the battery wasn't charged that often.
Anyway, OEM batteries are available on eBay for under $12 and one should arrive Monday.
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I wonder if those are legit LG made.
Yup, why wouldn't it be? It's a unique battery for an obsolete phone, everyone that has any quantity is dumping them. The one I'm getting is from an "overstock" dealer.
xs11e said:
Yup, why wouldn't it be? It's a unique battery for an obsolete phone, everyone that has any quantity is dumping them. The one I'm getting is from an "overstock" dealer.
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Yeah I was just curious. Will buy few myself that's not a bad deal at all. Yeah I can't blame people, this will be my last LG phone. Great specs and price, but build quality trash.
Sad part I know 3 people with LG V20 who are also having build quality issues. Speaker going on all of them and this is a common issue.
Nick216ohio said:
Yeah I was just curious. Will buy few myself that's not a bad deal at all. Yeah I can't blame people, this will be my last LG phone. Great specs and price, but build quality trash.
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Click to collapse
I guess I've been lucky, I've had very few problems. I really miss an unlocked bootloader and a rooted phone with a custom ROM but this seems to do the job other than about 90% of the "wonderful" features being stuff I don't want, don't use and would delete if the phone was rooted..
I really wanted the removable battery and the SD card, I think LG is my only option for both isn't it?
I have no idea what (or IF) my next phone will be, maybe I'll drag out my old Motorola V3 and use it? <G>
Seriously, no kidding, it's been all downhill since my BlackBerry Bold.
I bought two spares batteries, one from Ebay with the external charge case that looks genuine but the battery lasts about 20-25% less than the original battery and a second one from Aliexpress that lasts half the time of the original battery. The one from Ebay ways the same as the original, the one from Aliexpress is lighter.
On both the batteries the green heatshrink is not exactly the same color as the original one.
So I think none of those batteries you can buy from those sites will have the same capacity as a original battery from a official reseller.
The one I got seems to be OEM, I suspect the ones you got were just old, I can't imagine anyone making an aftermarket battery for such a low sales volume phone.
I believe any battery you get will be 3 - 4 years old before you get it, that may be why the one I got took almost 40 hours to reach full charge.
So far it seems it will last as long as the original but who knows?
xs11e said:
took almost 40 hours to reach full charge
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You have some abnormal batteries, cables, and/or chargers...
No, all working as they should.
Sent from my VS987 using XDA-Developers Legacy app
So my Moto Z 2016 fell into the Android 8.0 Oreo upgrade cluster**** and became a victim of the famous massive battery drainage, to the point it became impossible to use without keeping it plugged to a charger. Thing is one would logically assume this is a software issue, and therefore a rollback/downgrade would be enough to solve this problem. However, after dealing with multiple software upgrades and downgrades for 2-3 days straight with and without RSDLite in every imaginable way possible, I managed to install Android 6.0 Lollipop on the phone and everything works excellently, but the battery keeps having the same issues it had the second that phone got the lovely 8.0 update.
So my questions are: is it even remotely correct to assume the update caused physical damage to the battery? Or -even if I completely reinstalled a totally different Android version- there is still some part of the phone that contains an unmodifiable chunk of software that is corruptedly managing the battery information, therefore making buying a new battery irrelevant?
I'm asking this because I decided to believe in the first question as a yes and was about to proceed to buy a new battery AND a new glue to place the screen again back to where it is, but decided to make this thread to maybe avoid buying things that could've been unnecesary. Thanks in advance.
It's time to get a new battery.
Mine is pretty much okay with Oreo update back then. But after just 1++ year usage (bought it in Sept 2017), the battery life just dropped significantly.
Replaced it, and now it working fine. Even the repair center didn't factory reset my device (I'm on Omni ROM), so it couldn't be a software issue.
I can confirm new battery will solve the problem. I had tried everything before I ordered an original battery pack (made by Lg and my phone has juice for more than a day now. (a half before)
I think fast/turbo charging also kill the battery, so now I use a 1,5/2A charger
Ratawar said:
So my Moto Z 2016 fell into the Android 8.0 Oreo upgrade cluster**** and became a victim of the famous massive battery drainage, to the point it became impossible to use without keeping it plugged to a charger. Thing is one would logically assume this is a software issue, and therefore a rollback/downgrade would be enough to solve this problem. However, after dealing with multiple software upgrades and downgrades for 2-3 days straight with and without RSDLite in every imaginable way possible, I managed to install Android 6.0 Lollipop on the phone and everything works excellently, but the battery keeps having the same issues it had the second that phone got the lovely 8.0 update.
So my questions are: is it even remotely correct to assume the update caused physical damage to the battery? Or -even if I completely reinstalled a totally different Android version- there is still some part of the phone that contains an unmodifiable chunk of software that is corruptedly managing the battery information, therefore making buying a new battery irrelevant?
I'm asking this because I decided to believe in the first question as a yes and was about to proceed to buy a new battery AND a new glue to place the screen again back to where it is, but decided to make this thread to maybe avoid buying things that could've been unnecesary. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
garyarts said:
I can confirm new battery will solve the problem. I had tried everything before I ordered an original battery pack (made by Lg and my phone has juice for more than a day now. (a half before)
I think fast/turbo charging also kill the battery, so now I use a 1,5/2A charger
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you please post a link about the battery pack kit that you said? Is there any different to a Motorola's one (capacity, dimensions etc) ? Thank you.
To our dear friend, I suggest you replace the battery. You are not alone to that issue. It's worth buying new battery. Check this thread : https://forum.xda-developers.com/moto-z/how-to/defective-battery-lots-moto-zhigh-t3781335
this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ORIGINAL-M...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
the same GV30 was in the device (2680maH). There are a lot of non oem batteries btw
tsoump said:
Could you please post a link about the battery pack kit that you said? Is there any different to a Motorola's one (capacity, dimensions etc) ? Thank you.
To our dear friend, I suggest you replace the battery. You are not alone to that issue. It's worth buying new battery. Check this thread : https://forum.xda-developers.com/moto-z/how-to/defective-battery-lots-moto-zhigh-t3781335
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
garyarts said:
this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ORIGINAL-M...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
the same GV30 was in the device (2680maH). There are a lot of non oem batteries btw
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the quick response. I've noticed that there are many after-market batteries which have larger dimensions than the original. Do you think by just changing the battery to a new one, will solve the problem? I mean it was just effective batteries?
I think the best to replace to the original GV30. It solved the battery problem of my phone right after changing it and I'm not alone with it I guess. I had tried everything before (calibration, doze apps, etc). Nothing works if the cells of the battery are dead. It's a hardware issue
tsoump said:
Thank you for the quick response. I've noticed that there are many after-market batteries which have larger dimensions than the original. Do you think by just changing the battery to a new one, will solve the problem? I mean it was just effective batteries?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
garyarts said:
I think the best to replace to the original GV30. It solved the battery problem of my phone right after changing it and I'm not alone with it I guess. I had tried everything before (calibration, doze apps, etc). Nothing works if the cells of the battery are dead. It's a hardware issue
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeap! This is the conclusion, bad cells in the battery. I also believe the problem enhanced by the turbo charger, as you said... :/ But, how to prove it... (?)
Prove? I can prove in a year
Just think about it. It's simple physics, faster thermal expansion kills cells. That's why they're said not to let discharged fully. Or whatever
tsoump said:
Yeap! This is the conclusion, bad cells in the battery. I also believe the problem enhanced by the turbo charger, as you said... :/ But, how to prove it... (?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi there,
did anyone tried https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LOS...-01-XT1650-03-XT1650-05-GV40/32842305696.html battery?
Thanks!
moemos said:
Hi there,
did anyone tried https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LOS...-01-XT1650-03-XT1650-05-GV40/32842305696.html battery?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Look, many customers have tried these extended batteries but noone can prove that this myth works! On the other hand, many videos and comments have uploaded on the internet and people have shared their experience: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hRdg75PAMw
I believe that it's impossible to extend a battery capacity while the space inside the phone is very specific.
A project, though, is in progress by a member of XDA who is trying to replace GV30 to GV40 battery: https://forum.xda-developers.com/moto-z/help/replace-gv30-gv40-t3896369
You'll want a battery that's SMALLER capacity than the oem. The issue is that lithium ion batteries hate being thinned out so trying to put the 2600maH OEM battery inside this chassis is a recipe for disaster. I believe the iFixit battery is around 2400maH.
I think we'd be fine with shorter life than stock. What many are missing is consistent battery life. It's one thing to get 2hours SOT, it's another to be at 80% and have it shutdown.
jonshipman said:
You'll want a battery that's SMALLER capacity than the oem. The issue is that lithium ion batteries hate being thinned out so trying to put the 2600maH OEM battery inside this chassis is a recipe for disaster. I believe the iFixit battery is around 2400maH.
I think we'd be fine with shorter life than stock. What many are missing is consistent battery life. It's one thing to get 2hours SOT, it's another to be at 80% and have it shutdown.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's appropriate to give us a link about these batteries.
I did change the motherboard and the battery to a new one gv30 and I get 3-4 SOT. What's your opinion about gv40 inside moto z?
tsoump said:
It's appropriate to give us a link about these batteries.
I did change the motherboard and the battery to a new one gv30 and I get 3-4 SOT. What's your opinion about gv40 inside moto z?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't do it. The screen will bulge out. There is essentially 0 give inside the Moto Z chassis. If you're fine seeing into the phone, then it'll work for you. However, I'd probably opt for the iFixit kit. It's an official Moto solution, and while it might have the same problem it won't introduce a worse problem.
May batteries you find online will say "OEM" but they are often rebrands. And even if they're just 0.1mm thicker, the screen won't adhere. A proper phone replace shop ordered me a replacement battery and it was too thick. This was a year ago, and I eventually just replaced it with a $300 new Moto Z from Amazon (I had broken my screen replacing the battery myself).
I don't know the links persay, but I see there's this one from SWARK https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Compatible-XT1650-03-XT1650-05-XT1650-01/dp/B07GQWHLH1
I haven't tried that one myself, but I'd be curious to see the thickness.
Just replacing my moto z battery with cheap (fake?) gv30 that i buy for only around $7 in my local (Indonesia) marketplace
Please look the attached picture for its (peak) performance, and this how i got those number:
- charge to 91% with 5v/1.2A charger (ASUS charger)
- watching movie for 3 hours with airplane mode and bluetooth earphone on
- sleeping with airplane mode on
- using my phone normally with wifi on and data off until the battery reach 3%
Thank you all for your answers and sharing your experiences.
Unfortunately, after buying all I needed from the USA (battery pack and 2 B7000 glue blisters shipped to Argentina) I proceeded to attempt to fix the phone. While heating up the screen to remove it, I burned all of the LCD corners and completely ruined the screen. I don't know what did I do so differently from all of the technicians in videotutorials where thay apply the exact same or even more heat on the screen and still left it intact, but there's nothing that can be done about it except buying a new screen replacement, but since we didn't want to spend much money on this phone, we just discarded it. Such a shame and disgraceful event, it still bugs me out.
Hey everyone,
I've finally decided to actively look for ways to extend my battery life, kinda fed up of the poor SoT and overnight drain.
I know there are other ROMs I can try that will improve the battery life, as well as other tips like disabling ok Google, but I was thinking more on the hardware level.
Has anyone looked for/replaced the battery on their Mi 9? I found a battery on AliExpress claiming to have the same form factor as the OEM while boasting 4650mAh
I'm incredibly sceptical of this but nevertheless, there's a small part of me itching to get it hoping it will add significant life to the device.
Any thoughts or reviews?
All those batterys are fake
Fake capacity
If it was possible to make a battery with same size of the original battery but with higher capacity why all oems doesnt make this type of batteries ?
I see iphone 5s with 4500mah capacity in the same size
That's exactly what I thought as well, but I'm not very familiar with how batteries are made etc, so I'm not sure if another company that dedicates themselves to making just batteries, later figured how to make bigger capacity in the same size.
But I tend to lean more on your same line of thought, which is why I wanted to know if anyone here had some first hand experience with these kind of claims.
Is there any good replacement batteries with the same capacity as the original one?
Does the Mi 9 Pro battery fit?
eBay has 4700 mAh extended battery cases for 29.99
Replacement of 4000mah battery for my mi9
I replaced of 4000mah battery for my mi9 recently and I'm satisfied with its performance.
-active drain ~ 12.1%
-static drain ~ 0.4%
Most of my activity is using LTE network to look at news.
The brand name of 4000mah battery is MARWAY.
Kris
Kris Chen said:
I replaced of 4000mah battery for my mi9 recently and I'm satisfied with its performance.
-active drain ~ 12.1%
-static drain ~ 0.4%
Most of my activity is using LTE network to look at news.
The brand name of 4000mah battery is MARWAY.
Kris
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It actually fits? Where did you get it?
Where did you buy it and can you give some me details of the battery? I'm really searching for a 4000mah battery for Europe (Germany) but i only saw fakes.
Yes and it does !
I get it from taiwan shopee ~ (https://shopee.tw/product/44600106/4819487274)
Kris
Ulver said:
It actually fits? Where did you get it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Kris Chen said:
I replaced of 4000mah battery for my mi9 recently and I'm satisfied with its performance.
-active drain ~ 12.1%
-static drain ~ 0.4%
Most of my activity is using LTE network to look at news.
The brand name of 4000mah battery is MARWAY.
Kris
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are they sending to Europe ?
P$T said:
Are they sending to Europe ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hi everyone, has anyone managed to find a replacement battery or a way to improve it?
Anyone know of any US sources for a replacement battery? I'm kind of in a pickle here. My case developed a crack in it several months ago. It was just a minor cosmetic thing so it hadn't bugged me too much. Lately every time I grab my phone I hear it creaking so I decided to look for an exact replacement case. The original store I bought mine from is listed as out of stock and searching for the part number elsewhere came up with 3 stores, all out of stock. Doing searches on ebay/amazon/ailibabba didn't come up with anything. I decided to just go ahead and get my phone out of this case and stick it into the stock TPU case. Anyway, I pop open the metal frame and the glass back literally flies off. I'm shocked to see the back of my phone now 90% popped outward. Looking from the side it's becuase the battery is one giant swollen blob! Everything is working fine, I had zero clue there was anything wrong until I tried taking it out of my case now I'm kind of on a desperate hunt for a replacement battery. I don't even know how I'm going to hold my phone together beyond attempting to cram it back into my metal/glassback case.
Edit: I ended up getting a replacement battery from iFixIt and using their replacement guide. Note, their guide is for the non-transparent edition. For the transparent edition, they use P2 pentalobe(0.8mm star) screws rather than phillips #00.
after EDL and its story everything is ok except there is no fast charging available and the phone charged normaly.
the original adaptor also rattles something in it maybe it is normal. MIUI 12 12.0.2
NXTwoThou said:
Anyone know of any US sources for a replacement battery? I'm kind of in a pickle here. My case developed a crack in it several months ago. It was just a minor cosmetic thing so it hadn't bugged me too much. Lately every time I grab my phone I hear it creaking so I decided to look for an exact replacement case. The original store I bought mine from is listed as out of stock and searching for the part number elsewhere came up with 3 stores, all out of stock. Doing searches on ebay/amazon/ailibabba didn't come up with anything. I decided to just go ahead and get my phone out of this case and stick it into the stock TPU case. Anyway, I pop open the metal frame and the glass back literally flies off. I'm shocked to see the back of my phone now 90% popped outward. Looking from the side it's becuase the battery is one giant swollen blob! Everything is working fine, I had zero clue there was anything wrong until I tried taking it out of my case now I'm kind of on a desperate hunt for a replacement battery. I don't even know how I'm going to hold my phone together beyond attempting to cram it back into my metal/glassback case.
Edit: I ended up getting a replacement battery from iFixIt and using their replacement guide. Note, their guide is for the non-transparent edition. For the transparent edition, they use P2 pentalobe(0.8mm star) screws rather than phillips #00.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just ordered a replacement battery from ifixit as well. How is the battery? Are you noticing a difference from the stock battery?
Ulver said:
I just ordered a replacement battery from ifixit as well. How is the battery? Are you noticing a difference from the stock battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately it's way too soon for me to tell. I'm not sure I did battery calibration correctly because I replaced the battery last Wednesday, slow charged it to 100% on my slowest charger and let it continue on the slow charger for 2 hours, then unplugged it and continued to use it until it was so drained it couldn't turn on again(which to my surprise wasn't until Sunday evening). Then plugged in to that same slow charger without turning on the phone overnight. So I'm only a little over 2 days with the new battery. My SoT doesn't seem to be as good(my battery was at 65% this morning when I'm used to seeing low 70s-80s), but I might need to look back up how to do the battery calibration.
One note though, for some reason I had some difficulty getting the loud speaker realigned correctly. The connecting pins just didn't want to sit right. It took me three times taking it back apart until it worked properly. Might just be my phone but I'd be real careful with the alignment and do the whole "tightening a car tire" style turn each screw a little bit to make sure it seats flat. Again, it might just be a mfg defect with my particular phone as I didn't see anything online with anyone else having a similar problem.
NXTwoThou said:
Unfortunately it's way too soon for me to tell. I'm not sure I did battery calibration correctly because I replaced the battery last Wednesday, slow charged it to 100% on my slowest charger and let it continue on the slow charger for 2 hours, then unplugged it and continued to use it until it was so drained it couldn't turn on again(which to my surprise wasn't until Sunday evening). Then plugged in to that same slow charger without turning on the phone overnight. So I'm only a little over 2 days with the new battery. My SoT doesn't seem to be as good(my battery was at 65% this morning when I'm used to seeing low 70s-80s), but I might need to look back up how to do the battery calibration.
One note though, for some reason I had some difficulty getting the loud speaker realigned correctly. The connecting pins just didn't want to sit right. It took me three times taking it back apart until it worked properly. Might just be my phone but I'd be real careful with the alignment and do the whole "tightening a car tire" style turn each screw a little bit to make sure it seats flat. Again, it might just be a mfg defect with my particular phone as I didn't see anything online with anyone else having a similar problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any update on the new battery? I got mine in, but debating if it will be worth it to change it or not. I appreciate the tips on replacing it.
Ulver said:
Any update on the new battery? I got mine in, but debating if it will be worth it to change it or not. I appreciate the tips on replacing it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you are asking if I'm having a longer SoT, no. I'm not. I'm also using xiaomi.eu weekly which means I'm very used to inconsistent SoT as each week things change.
I have a transparent edition, which means rather than the phillips #00 screws you see in replacement guides I had 0.8mm star screws(P2 pentalobe).
The issue with my previous battery was it had ballooned to more than three times it's regular thickness which caused my back cover to pop off. So I don't have any advice on how to get the back off as mine had already fallen off. The funny bit is that I didn't replace the tape because I wanted to wait a few days to make sure everything was okay. My case ended up pressing the back cover tightly enough against the back that it ended up regluing itself when I took it out of the case to start retaping.
I had several issues with reassembly. My giant hands took quite awhile to get the antenna wire back on and since the replacement battery cable is a little longer than the original it took some wiggling until I was able to get the plug to be lined up to lock in. After I put it back together I tested everything and discovered the loudspeaker wasn't working. You need to screw it down like you are putting a tire on a car. Don't tighten each screw individually but go around to each one so when it's going down it's going down flat so the connection is straight(similar issue to the battery cable, if it's not exactly parallel, it doesn't connect).
I ended up doing a battery replacement. I got an original (at least it sure looks like it) and a new back cover to replace my scratched one. The install was easy, and I'm actually getting better life than the old one. Not dramatically better, but still a slight improvement.
Ulver said:
I ended up doing a battery replacement. I got an original (at least it sure looks like it) and a new back cover to replace my scratched one. The install was easy, and I'm actually getting better life than the old one. Not dramatically better, but still a slight improvement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you mind giving the link for both?
For those who used the phone for three years, how is your battery condition?
Horrible, to the point I upgraded to a V60 as I couldn't deal with the 1/3 to 1/2 day capacity of the battery.
I eventually did swap out the battery in the V30, after migrating to the V60, and now use the V30 as my work phone.
jimmijam07 said:
Horrible, to the point I upgraded to a V60 as I couldn't deal with the 1/3 to 1/2 day capacity of the battery.
I eventually did swap out the battery in the V30, after migrating to the V60, and now use the V30 as my work phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you 4 the info
My battery didn't even last three years. It started bulging last year and I was forced to replace it, which was easier than I expected (though the fact that the battery partly lifted the back off for me did help a lot). For only $15, I got a kit that included a new battery and several tools and supplies to perform the operation. If you're unhappy with your battery life, it's worth doing.
Also, to get the most out of the AMOLED screen, I set my wallpaper to black, my e-reader backgrounds to black and try to use dark mode or dark apps as much as possible (ex. a Sudoku app that's white on black rather than black on white). I don't remember the exact numbers, but I tested reading for half an hour with my e-reader set to a light background and half an hour with it set to a black background and the latter drained about half the battery, so I think that dark backgrounds really do help with battery conservation.
Osprey00 said:
My battery didn't even last three years. It started bulging last year and I was forced to replace it, which was easier than I expected (though the fact that the battery partly lifted the back off for me did help a lot). For only $15, I got a kit that included a new battery (slightly higher capacity than the original, even) and several tools and supplies to perform the operation. If you're unhappy with your battery life, it's worth doing.
Also, to get the most out of the AMOLED screen, I set my wallpaper to black, my e-reader backgrounds to black and try to use dark mode or dark apps as much as possible (ex. a Sudoku app that's white on black rather than black on white). I don't remember the exact numbers, but I tested reading for half an hour with my e-reader set to a light background and half an hour with it set to a black background and the latter drained about half the battery, so I think that dark backgrounds really do help with battery conservation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much
Malicool said:
Thank you so much Where did you buy the battery and was it easy to install?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My wife and I still have ours and they're ok, not great. My wife uses her phone a LOT and so I really would love to replace the battery, but I don't want to give up the IP68 rating of the phone. Is there a way to replace the battery and preserve the IP68?
We've also been using AccuBattery app for the past many years, and still says that her battery is at 90% and mine is at "112%". Needless to say, I don't believe it, but so reviews say it's a good way to monitor the health... obviously it's not. My wife gets about 3/4 of the day for her HEAVY usage. I can get through about a day when I use it to my "high" level of usage. Certainly not the "2 days" that it was when new.
Again, I wish companies would go back to replacable batteries... but I guess they can't do that with IP-ratings anyway (or at least they haven't tried hard enough since it's better for them to make them un-replaceable).
schwinn8 said:
My wife and I still have ours and they're ok, not great. My wife uses her phone a LOT and so I really would love to replace the battery, but I don't want to give up the IP68 rating of the phone. Is there a way to replace the battery and preserve the IP68?
We've also been using AccuBattery app for the past many years, and still says that her battery is at 90% and mine is at "112%". Needless to say, I don't believe it, but so reviews say it's a good way to monitor the health... obviously it's not. My wife gets about 3/4 of the day for her HEAVY usage. I can get through about a day when I use it to my "high" level of usage. Certainly not the "2 days" that it was when new.
Again, I wish companies would go back to replacable batteries... but I guess they can't do that with IP-ratings anyway (or at least they haven't tried hard enough since it's better for them to make them un-replaceable).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, But with the application that you spoke about, it gave me 94 percent, and for a full day it consumed 80 percent of the entire charge, I mean, most likely the app is working efficiently
Malicool said:
Thank you so much Where did you buy the battery and was it easy to install?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought it from Amazon. Here's the exact one that I bought:
Amazon.com: Battery for LG V30, 3800mAh Li-ion Replacement Battery for LG V30 BL-T34 H930 H931 H932 H933 VS996 US998 LS998 Spare Battery with Repair Tool Kits : Electronics
Amazon.com: Battery for LG V30, 3800mAh Li-ion Replacement Battery for LG V30 BL-T34 H930 H931 H932 H933 VS996 US998 LS998 Spare Battery with Repair Tool Kits : Electronics
www.amazon.com
It was easy to install, but, like I said, that's largely because my bloated battery lifted the back of the phone partially off. It'll be more work, otherwise, because you'll need to use the blue stick tool to pry the back off. I heard that blowing a hair dryer on the back for a minute or so will loosen up the glue keeping the back on and make it easier to pry. Check out some YouTube videos.
Osprey00 said:
bought it from Amazon. Here's the exact one that I bought:
Amazon.com: Battery for LG V30, 3800mAh Li-ion Replacement Battery for LG V30 BL-T34 H930 H931 H932 H933 VS996 US998 LS998 Spare Battery with Repair Tool Kits : Electronics
Amazon.com: Battery for LG V30, 3800mAh Li-ion Replacement Battery for LG V30 BL-T34 H930 H931 H932 H933 VS996 US998 LS998 Spare Battery with Repair Tool Kits : Electronics
www.amazon.com
It was easy to install, but, like I said, that's largely because my bloated battery lifted the back of the phone partially off. It'll be more work, otherwise, because you'll need to use the blue stick tool to pry the back off. I heard that blowing a hair dryer on the back for a minute or so will loosen up the glue keeping the back on and make it easier to pry. Check out some YouTube videos.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
اا
Osprey00 said:
I bought it from Amazon. Here's the exact one that I bought:
Amazon.com: Battery for LG V30, 3800mAh Li-ion Replacement Battery for LG V30 BL-T34 H930 H931 H932 H933 VS996 US998 LS998 Spare Battery with Repair Tool Kits : Electronics
Amazon.com: Battery for LG V30, 3800mAh Li-ion Replacement Battery for LG V30 BL-T34 H930 H931 H932 H933 VS996 US998 LS998 Spare Battery with Repair Tool Kits : Electronics
www.amazon.com
It was easy to install, but, like I said, that's largely because my bloated battery lifted the back of the phone partially off. It'll be more work, otherwise, because you'll need to use the blue stick tool to pry the back off. I heard that blowing a hair dryer on the back for a minute or so will loosen up the glue keeping the back on and make it easier to pry. Check out some YouT
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Osprey00 said:
I bought it from Amazon. Here's the exact one that I bought:
Amazon.com: Battery for LG V30, 3800mAh Li-ion Replacement Battery for LG V30 BL-T34 H930 H931 H932 H933 VS996 US998 LS998 Spare Battery with Repair Tool Kits : Electronics
Amazon.com: Battery for LG V30, 3800mAh Li-ion Replacement Battery for LG V30 BL-T34 H930 H931 H932 H933 VS996 US998 LS998 Spare Battery with Repair Tool Kits : Electronics
www.amazon.com
It was easy to install, but, like I said, that's largely because my bloated battery lifted the back of the phone partially off. It'll be more work, otherwise, because you'll need to use the blue stick tool to pry the back off. I heard that blowing a hair dryer on the back for a minute or so will loosen up the glue keeping the back on and make it easier to pry. Check out some YouTube videos.
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I understand, thank you very much
schwinn8 said:
Is there a way to replace the battery and preserve the IP68?
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From what I'm reading, IP68 involves a vacuum seal, so you'd lose that if you replace the battery. What difference that makes to waterproof-ness, I don't know.
I do know that the back of the phone is held on by glue. Once you remove the back, the glue loses some of its effectiveness. I found that I could replace the battery, press the back back on and the glue was still strong enough to keep it together and leave it that way, but I also found that it was much easier to remove the back a second time, which makes me doubt that it was waterproof.
If you really want to make it as waterproof as possible, what you probably want to do is buy the right kind of glue (I forget the name, but a few YouTube videos for replacing the battery mention it), remove all of the old glue and thoroughly apply the new glue. Even then, maybe missing a spot or applying too much or too little might compromise the waterproofness, I imagine, so it's a risk. I think that the benefits of better battery life outweigh the chance that you'll end up immersing the phone in water, though. If you do replace the battery, just be extra careful with it.
Malicool said:
Thank you, But with the application that you spoke about, it gave me 94 percent, and for a full day it consumed 80 percent of the entire charge, I mean, most likely the app is working efficiently
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I don't know if you've been using it for a while, but if you haven't then it won't be accurate. Still, like I said, it tells me my battery is at 110% and the phone doesn't last for more than a day of my usage, which tells me it's not anywhere near that. Bottom line, no way it's anywhere near original capacity after all these years... impossible.
Osprey00 said:
From what I'm reading, IP68 involves a vacuum seal, so you'd lose that if you replace the battery. What difference that makes to waterproof-ness, I don't know.
I do know that the back of the phone is held on by glue. Once you remove the back, the glue loses some of its effectiveness. I found that I could replace the battery, press the back back on and the glue was still strong enough to keep it together and leave it that way, but I also found that it was much easier to remove the back a second time, which makes me doubt that it was waterproof.
If you really want to make it as waterproof as possible, what you probably want to do is buy the right kind of glue (I forget the name, but a few YouTube videos for replacing the battery mention it), remove all of the old glue and thoroughly apply the new glue. Even then, maybe missing a spot or applying too much or too little might compromise the waterproofness, I imagine, so it's a risk. I think that the benefits of better battery life outweigh the chance that you'll end up immersing the phone in water, though. If you do replace the battery, just be extra careful with it.
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Good point... I could do the glue trick and still be careful. We're usually careful (with the phone), so maybe I just have the battery replaced by a shop, and maybe they can do the glue stuff as well (I don't have the time for it myself). And that would let me keep the phone another 3-ish years... and in a pinch I can get a replacement (which will be an older model, as is my historical preference anyway). Thanks for the post!
schwinn8 said:
Again, I wish companies would go back to replacable batteries... but I guess they can't do that with IP-ratings anyway (or at least they haven't tried hard enough since it's better for them to make them un-replaceable).
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Nah this is just a scam, look at the Samsung Galaxy S5 for example (IP67) and the new Samsung Xcover line which have IP68 ratings. I'm honestly sick of fragile glass backs without removable batteries.
aventurer said:
Nah this is just a scam, look at the Samsung Galaxy S5 for example (IP67) and the new Samsung Xcover line which have IP68 ratings. I'm honestly sick of fragile glass backs without removable batteries.
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Many years ago... as in circa 1984... PCs came with little batteries soldered to the motherboard. All these batteries had to do was trickle-charge the BIOS settings RAM and keep the clock running. They were soldered on because otherwise they would shake loose over time, and they lasted a long time.
The running joke, probably born of real life experience, was someone complaining about the clock failing...
Hey, my computer keeps losing its settings.
Oh, that means your battery is dying.
So I need a new battery?
No, you need to upgrade your computer.
Both computers and phones have slowed recently, but three years is a lot of improvements.
So I just paid someone to replace my 3 yr old LG battery with a SHENMZ 3600 mah which has decent Amazon reviews. Then I did the 5 full discharge and charge cycles as directed by the manufacturer -- nothing really changed.
Accubattery Pro shows ~3000 mah on the Charging/Health screens, however it projects almost 9h of SOT (62h off / 27h combined). So I am getting nowhere near the reported 3600 mah, but also not even very near the 3300 mah of the stock battery which I would be ok with.
Accubattery showed that my 3 yr old LG battery was 3400 mah on the Charging screen and 3288 mah on the Health screen so I am wondering if I should not treat Accubattery's data as accurate? I know Accubattery is taking data points over a long time, so maybe that is why. It did show a 6.5h SOT for the LG over the week prior to removal so not terrible, but actually worse than the ~3000 mah SHENMZ battery.
Towards the end I did feel like the LG battery held a charge better initially after coming off the charger, but then would drain faster over time vs the SHENMZ which drains more steadily.
I am just not sure whether I should trust Accubattery's mah estimation while charging or trust the discharging SOT estimates which I feel like are about right?
I am trying to get SHENMZ to either send a replacement which then I'll have to pay someone again to install it or a refund or ideally both since I am already out time and money on installation already. I could probably install it myself, but I don't want to risk messing up my daily driver.
Lastly, are there any suggestions of where to get a new OEM LG battery or a reliable alternative? My phone feels heavier with the SHENMZ 3600 mah so the extra weight isn't worth it if it performs worse than a stock 3300 mah battery.
Thanks!
@drewcu
I installed a 3800mAh replacement last year and didn't notice any difference in capacity from stock. I even went fishing around in the system files and found that it was being treated as 3300mAh (at the time, I thought that the phone was assuming that, but I think now that that's all that the battery reports). When I looked it up on Amazon a few days ago, another buyer reported no higher capacity with his testing. Based on that and your report, I'm starting to suspect that these "higher capacity" batteries are just regular capacity (or, maybe in your case, lower than regular capacity) with higher numbers printed on the side. At least the discrepancy isn't as great as when you buy a cheap 128GB microSD card and discover that actually holds only 8GB, but it's still disappointing. My guess is that, if you ask for a replacement, you'll just get another like the one that you got. You could always buy the one that I linked above that, while also a mislabel, at least seems to be the original capacity (3300mAh) underneath.
Osprey00 said:
@drewcu
I installed a 3800mA replacement last year and didn't notice any difference in capacity from stock. I even went fishing around in the system files and found that it was being treated as 3300mA (at the time, I thought that the phone was assuming that, but I think now that that's all that the battery reports). When I looked it up on Amazon a few days ago, another buyer reported no higher capacity with his testing. Based on that and your report, I'm starting to suspect that these "higher capacity" batteries are just regular capacity (or, maybe in your case, lower than regular capacity) with higher numbers printed on the side. At least the discrepancy isn't as great as when you buy a cheap 128GB microSD card and discover that actually holds only 8GB, but it's still disappointing. My guess is that, if you ask for a replacement, you'll just get another like the one that you got. You could always buy the one that I linked above that, while also a mislabel, at least seems to be the original capacity (3300mA) underneath.
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Thanks for the reply! I checked out the FLSTOR model you linked when initially researching and was a bit worried about the ratio of 5 star to 1 star ratings so I ended up with the SHENMZ.
A couple of people with the SHENMZ reported a lower mah than expected but at least the one with an Accubattery screenshot showed around 3300 mah. I would be fine with a replacement SHENMZ with 3300 mah that lasts a year or 2 -- really anything between 3250 - 3600 mah. Just not barely 3000 mah. That is unless Accubattery is not reliable in calculating mah.
What does Accubattery show on your Discharging tab for screen on, screen off, and combined? Curious that maybe my battery is actually better than I think it is.
Either way 3000 mah isn't terrible so I may just leave it in there regardless of what SHENMZ does for me. And especially if I have to pay another installation fee just to swap it out for a mystery battery that may or may not be any better. The only way I would do another installation now is if I get a NEW OEM LG battery somehow or SHENMZ sends me a replacement battery where they can prove it actually is 3600 mah before shipping.
drewcu said:
What does Accubattery show on your Discharging tab for screen on, screen off, and combined? Curious that maybe my battery is actually better than I think it is.
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I'm not using AccuBattery and even if I were to give you numbers from it, they likely wouldn't be accurate (because I'd need to use it for a week or more and I'm a pretty light phone user as it is). Sorry. The top Amazon review of the battery that I have, though, says:
The weight of this battery is identical (47g) to the OEM battery. I did a careful video streaming rundown test with the OEM battery, which was still relatively fresh, then installed this purportedly 3800mAh battery. After three complete charge/discharge cycles of this new battery, I repeated my video streaming test. This resulted in the same rundown %/hour value (9.2%) as the OEM battery. So, the example I received was no better or worse than the OEM 3300mAh battery. Don't get your hopes up too high.
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I imagine that he used AccuBattery to get that value. That probably answers your question better than I could.
I did try out the app after installing my replacement battery, but uninstalled it when it seemed that it would only set off an alarm at 80% charge. I've been using the built-in Smart Charging feature of the Havoc-OS ROM since then to actually cap the charge at 80%. That's how I'm taking care of my replacement battery so that I don't have to replace it again any time soon.
Osprey00 said:
I'm not using AccuBattery and even if I were to give you numbers from it, they likely wouldn't be accurate (because I'd need to use it for a week or more and I'm a pretty light phone user as it is). Sorry. The top Amazon review of the battery that I have, though, says:
I imagine that he used AccuBattery to get that value. That probably answers your question better than I could.
I did try out the app after installing my replacement battery, but uninstalled it when it seemed that it would only set off an alarm at 80% charge. I've been using the built-in Smart Charging feature of the Havoc-OS ROM since then to actually cap the charge at 80%. That's how I'm taking care of my replacement battery so that I don't have to replace it again any time soon.
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Gotcha, yeah don't bother with Accubattery then. 9.2% discharging beats my current 11.5% average discharging with screen on.
I am considering returning this SHENMZ and getting the FLSTOR if the FLSTOR is really no heavier than OEM as the reviewer says. I don't know the weight of the SHENMZ battery but my phone just feels heavier and it's bothering me lol.
How long have you had the FLSTOR battery?
Notice any degradation in battery life over that span of time?
Do you agree with the reviewer that your phone feels the same weight as before?
Is the FLSTOR any thicker than OEM?
Thanks again!
drewcu said:
Gotcha, yeah don't bother with Accubattery then. 9.2% discharging beats my current 11.5% average discharging with screen on.
I am considering returning this SHENMZ and getting the FLSTOR if the FLSTOR is really no heavier than OEM as the reviewer says. I don't know the weight of the SHENMZ battery but my phone just feels heavier and it's bothering me lol.
How long have you had the FLSTOR battery?
Notice any degradation in battery life over that span of time?
Do you agree with the reviewer that your phone feels the same weight as before?
Is the FLSTOR any thicker than OEM?
Thanks again!
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I've used the FLSTOR battery since last June.
No, I haven't noticed any degradation of battery life. There's no doubt been some, as all batteries degrade, but it hasn't been enough for me to notice.
Yeah, my phone feels the same weight.
I'm not sure about thickness because the OEM one that I took out was bloated, but the new one fit perfectly, so I don't think that it's any thicker or thicker to the point that it makes any difference.
The "3800mAh" that it's printed and advertised with may be a lie, but I've been happy with everything else about it.
FWIW, after I read your last reply, I installed AccuBattery, let the battery lose 20% (because that's how much the app suggests is necessary for an accurate reading) and then charged it back up. The health tab estimates that the battery holds 3,010mAh of the original 3,300mAh, for a battery health of 91%. If that's accurate, and that's a big "if," since it's just based on one charging session of the minimum length, then I've lost 9% capacity in 9 months, or 1% per month. That doesn't seem so bad to me, but I'm not sure what normal is.