Hi guys, i am looking for some help as my Realme GT2 Pro is dead bricked (ie. no response to buttons + usb)
I was able to open the back cover but i am not sure which are the correct test points for EDL mode.
Below is the picture of the motherboard. Would someone be able to help?
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Normally EDL test points are a pair of contacts, sometimes conspicuous, sometimes not.
I would not generally recommend just shorting any two points, it would be possible to short and destroy something.
Do you have any resistors? 200 ohm to 3000 ohm would be ok. Higher might work, lower might harm something.
If you have a voltmeter you can check first. One point should register ~1.8V the other should be basically 0V.
The pair of test points near the white coax and the pair of test point alongside the black coax seem like candidates.
This is a Qualcomm thing, yes?
In worst case you can try to defeat the flash memory, but that's another subject.
Renate said:
Normally EDL test points are a pair of contacts, sometimes conspicuous, sometimes not.
I would not generally recommend just shorting any two points, it would be possible to short and destroy something.
Do you have any resistors? 200 ohm to 3000 ohm would be ok. Higher might work, lower might harm something.
If you have a voltmeter you can check first. One point should register ~1.8V the other should be basically 0V.
The pair of test points near the white coax and the pair of test point alongside the black coax seem like candidates.
This is a Qualcomm thing, yes?
In worst case you can try to defeat the flash memory, but that's another subject.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the detailed guide. Yes this is qualcomm chip.
I tried short connecting the pairs near the white coax and black coax but they are not giving me any signal.
I tried short connecting 2 of the 6 pins in the middle and it is responding. "usb descriptor failed" shows up in the device manager. However this seems to reserve short my pc usb ports at the same time. My bluetooth dongle got disconnected right away after recognizing "usb descriptor failed".
I will try to get the voltmeter to find out which one registers 1.8v and 0v
When you short the points you have to do a LONG power press. (You did know that?)
USB descriptor failed is usually when the USB block wasn't initialized and your host had problems getting the device descriptor.
You should just hook up your USB hardware protocol analyzer. What? You don't have one?
It could be that they were very sneaky with the test points. If you can't find somebody who has done this on this model you could be in for a search.
I do recall that some EDL points are hidden under the "mezzanine" connectors. (Those are the four connector you pull up with your fingernails.)
Renate said:
When you short the points you have to do a LONG power press. (You did know that?)
USB descriptor failed is usually when the USB block wasn't initialized and your host had problems getting the device descriptor.
You should just hook up your USB hardware protocol analyzer. What? You don't have one?
It could be that they were very sneaky with the test points. If you can't find somebody who has done this on this model you could be in for a search.
I do recall that some EDL points are hidden under the "mezzanine" connectors. (Those are the four connector you pull up with your fingernails.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wait, LONG power press? i only plug usb c while shorting...
and i don't have USB hardware protocol analyzer
Okay... maybe i should wait a bit more... this device is relatively new and like you said, EDL points may be hidden
No, leave the USB cord plugged in. Connect your test point. LONG power press, maybe 5-10 seconds until something changes.
If you're in Windows it should bong. Under Windows it can be difficult if the driver isn't/hasn't been loaded.
The stuff with "EDL cables" and plugging in cables is dependent on what/whether the OEM put the option in the XBL/SBL1.
Heck, are you sure that it's not in EDL mode anyway? If the bootloaders are very corrupt it will just go there by itself.
You need to look in Device Manager, or get UsbView.exe and make sure if it's presenting as anything.
When you remove/insert the USB cable does it bong? Or just "bad descriptor"?
Renate said:
No, leave the USB cord plugged in. Connect your test point. LONG power press, maybe 5-10 seconds until something changes.
If you're in Windows it should bong. Under Windows it can be difficult if the driver isn't/hasn't been loaded.
The stuff with "EDL cables" and plugging in cables is dependent on what/whether the OEM put the option in the XBL/SBL1.
Heck, are you sure that it's not in EDL mode anyway? If the bootloaders are very corrupt it will just go there by itself.
You need to look in Device Manager, or get UsbView.exe and make sure if it's presenting as anything.
When you remove/insert the USB cable does it bong? Or just "bad descriptor"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i actually found the test points and booted into 9008!!! YES!!
You reminded that their test points could be hidden, which is indeed the case for this device... OMG!
They are hidden underneath the micro camera!!
Now i just need msm tool to flash the device.
Thank you so much
For anyone who needs help with finding the edl test points, here you are:
Great sleuthing!
For your next steps maybe look at this post/thread: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...bootloader-and-fastboot.4471601/post-87186739
Thank you so much.
I will keep this in my back pocket as someone just helped me flashed the device...
Again, much appreciated your valuable knowledge!
henryhan123 said:
Thank you so much.
I will keep this in my back pocket as someone just helped me flashed the device...
Again, much appreciated your valuable knowledge!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello. I have a disassembled Realme Q3S smartphone. I can only connect to Edl Mode. Please tell me how you unbricked your smartphone? Which program? Who helped you?
henryhan123 said:
For anyone who needs help with finding the edl test points, here you are:View attachment 5666449
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey man, Im having the same problem as you, 0 reponse from the phone, buttons and usb do nothing. I opened it and tried shorting the 2 pins you show but still nothing happens. holding the power button I see nothing on windows. installed the qualcomm drivers, but they dont show up on device manager. do you have any ideas what could be? how do I know its on edl without MSM login?
Did you short the test point while doing a long power button reset?
You can UsbView.exe https://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Utilities.htm#MicrosoftUSBView to look for a device that is 05c6/9008
You should be able to find it there if you have no driver, the Qualcomm driver or the generic WinUSB driver.
Do you see some random COM port under Device Manager? That's the Qualcomm driver.
dick_vigarista said:
hey man, Im having the same problem as you, 0 reponse from the phone, buttons and usb do nothing. I opened it and tried shorting the 2 pins you show but still nothing happens. holding the power button I see nothing on windows. installed the qualcomm drivers, but they dont show up on device manager. do you have any ideas what could be? how do I know its on edl without MSM login?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
not sure what happened to your device but the photo has helped a few ppl already. Make sure you are shorting the correct pins. They are hidden beneath the smallest camera, which means you have to remove the camera.
1. unplug usb cable
2. disconnect the battery ribbon and remove the smallest camera
3. install Qualcomm 9008 driver
3. start shorting the 2 pins
4. keep holding on the short and then plug usb cable
5. after 5 sec, you should hear a sound from your windows, and your device manager should show the 9008 device.
6. flash stock rom via MSM
I'm still unclear about this whole business about plugging in the USB cable.
It seems to me that that is all dependent on the higher software.
The EDL test points are a 1.8V source and a GPIO pin with a pull-down resistor.
On my SDM636 it's GPIO57. On a rooted sytem I can write "57" to /sys/class/gpio/export then read /sys/class/gpio/gpio57/value
Code:
Poke3:/sys/class/gpio # echo 57 > export
Poke3:/sys/class/gpio # ls -l
...
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 0 2022-09-11 06:45 gpio57 -> ../../devices/soc/3000000.pinctrl/gpio/gpio57
...
Poke3:/sys/class/gpio # cat gpio57/value
0
Poke3:/sys/class/gpio # cat gpio57/value
1
Running a normal Android system I can play with the GPIO and plug/unplug the USB all day long without anything happening.
This is not to say that maybe fastboot or recovery or aboot or a different kernel doesn't keep an eye out for these conditions.
What is clear is that the ROM bootloader which runs at full reset does check the GPIO.
Moreover, that is entirely independent of any software.
Therefore I recommend leaving the cable in and do a long power button reset.
Also, I'm too uncoordinated to plug in a cable while shorting test points.
Renate said:
I'm still unclear about this whole business about plugging in the USB cable.
It seems to me that that is all dependent on the higher software.
The EDL test points are a 1.8V source and a GPIO pin with a pull-down resistor.
On my SDM636 it's GPIO57. On a rooted sytem I can write "57" to /sys/class/gpio/export then read /sys/class/gpio/gpio57/value
Code:
Poke3:/sys/class/gpio # echo 57 > export
Poke3:/sys/class/gpio # ls -l
...
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 0 2022-09-11 06:45 gpio57 -> ../../devices/soc/3000000.pinctrl/gpio/gpio57
...
Poke3:/sys/class/gpio # cat gpio57/value
0
Poke3:/sys/class/gpio # cat gpio57/value
1
Running a normal Android system I can play with the GPIO and plug/unplug the USB all day long without anything happening.
This is not to say that maybe fastboot or recovery or aboot or a different kernel doesn't keep an eye out for these conditions.
What is clear is that the ROM bootloader which runs at full reset does check the GPIO.
Moreover, that is entirely independent of any software.
Therefore I recommend leaving the cable in and do a long power button reset.
Also, I'm too uncoordinated to plug in a cable while shorting test points.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yah... this realme gt2 pro is awkward. It completely freezes everything, and becomes unresponsive to any buttons if the phone detects damaged boot image files (or maybe infinite boot loop...).
Though I am not sure if usb is needed in order to enter EDL... The only behavior i noticed for my phone is that if i stop shorting the pins, the phone automatically exits EDL mode within few sec, and then re-enter into the hard bricked mode. This is why i have the step of shorting pins and connecting usb to a PC so that MSM tool can be used on the PC.
henryhan123 said:
The only behavior i noticed for my phone is that if i stop shorting the pins, the phone automatically exits EDL mode within few sec...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wait, so when you are actually using EDL mode to do something you have to keep the test points shorted???
I have a few (4?) Qualcomm devices and when you get them in EDL mode (by shorting test points) they will sit there patiently forever (with open test points).
I've been working with EDL sometimes, forget about it and it's still active hours later.
I was helping somebody with a wrecked system and when it was in EDL it rebooted every 5 seconds back to EDL.
I never figured out what was going on, but if you could get your task done in time it worked out fine.
If I had the device in hand I might have figured it out.
Maybe another watchdog?
Are you sure that your device isn't resetting every n seconds and the (still) shorted test points gets you a new EDL session?
Hi guys, tried, tried and tried. And after trying a bunch of times it finally worked, now I have 9008 showing on device manager, thanks to you guys. Now I just need to find someone to go on MSM hehe, if you guys know someone pls let me know.... thank you guys for all the tips. It worked with cable plugged holding the power button and shorting.... but for some reason Had to try a bunch of times to finally work.
It can be tricky sometimes to make a good connection across the test points.
If it wackles for the millisecond that the processor is checking then it won't work.
I've never even seen the MSM tool, I prefer to just do it all myself.
Renate said:
It can be tricky sometimes to make a good connection across the test points.
If it wackles for the millisecond that the processor is checking then it won't work.
I've never even seen the MSM tool, I prefer to just do it all myself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
is it possible to do myself? I did not know. I would rather not have a stranger connecting on my computer too. can you give me some direction on how to do myself? thanks
Related
Is there any way to manage the USB connection when the phone is *not* plugged in? I want to be able to set whether the connection will share the int/ext SD card or be in charge only mode.
For what it's worth, I'm running CM7 Weekly 4, and LauncherPro (which I can set an icon for many system activities, but have no idea which would be the correct one).
Does anyone know how this can be done?
When you plug into an AC outlet it automatically goes to charge only, when you plug into USB it prompts by default Portal/tools..Mass storage..Charge only, you can set there.
Edit: Swyponese
Dee Ex Two - See Em Seven
Pixelation said:
When you plug into an AC outlet it automatically goes to charge only, when you plug into USB it prompts by default Portal/tools..Mass storage..Charge only, you can set there.
Edit: Swyponese
Dee Ex Two - See Em Seven
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The question is, how can I set the mode when the phone isn't plugged into anything?
Haphim said:
The question is, how can I set the mode when the phone isn't plugged into anything?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since it's not plugged into anything, there's no connection to manage. Just set the type of usb connection you want before unplugging it, then it should stay that way.
dratsablive said:
Since it's not plugged into anything, there's no connection to manage. Just set the type of usb connection you want before unplugging it, then it should stay that way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's not the point. Okay, let me explain. When I use the phone at home, I always let it share the drives. But if I'm out and need to charge the phone, but I don't trust the machine - then I don't want the drives shared, even for a moment.
However, unless I can change this without making the connection first, then either I can't charge my phone this way, or I'm risking malware getting a hold.
Since the phone remembers the last setting, it must be stored somewhere. The question is how can this stored setting be changed to prevent an issue like this from occurring.
Software = unknown, hardware = easy
If you don't mind carrying a "charge only" cable with you then you can avoid the whole issue of Malware, data dumps, etc. from a unknown PC that you just want to pull some juice from. I'm not sure if these cables are sold anywhere, but mod'ing a normal USB to micro-USB cable to make it data free is pretty simple.
On a USB connection your power (+5VDC and GND) is carried by the two outer most pins on the connector while the two inner pins carry the signal (. The I would mod the USB connector as it's bigger and much easier to work with.
Using a Dremel tool grind down the two middle connectors on the end that plugs into the PC. Make sure to remove all the copper for these two connectors, but do not hit the other two or you may damage the circuit path. Even though you are dealing with low voltage and small current levels, damage to the power connectors could cause issues.
Here is one issue though that is not limited to just this method, but to any time you charge from a PC: Per the USB 2.0 standard a PC must be able to provide a total of 500mA total for all USB connections. The USB charging standard for phones says at least 500mA. In other words, if there is anything else connected via USB or the PC manufacturer fudged the spec than the phone will see it as in invalid charging device and charge really slowly.
If you decide to try this, let me know how it turns out. I have only run this in a lab setting and have no real world data on how it holds up. Good luck.
Haphim said:
That's not the point. Okay, let me explain. When I use the phone at home, I always let it share the drives. But if I'm out and need to charge the phone, but I don't trust the machine - then I don't want the drives shared, even for a moment.
However, unless I can change this without making the connection first, then either I can't charge my phone this way, or I'm risking malware getting a hold.
Since the phone remembers the last setting, it must be stored somewhere. The question is how can this stored setting be changed to prevent an issue like this from occurring.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just drag down the status bar and choose the USB Connection option to manage it and select "None." Dratsablive was right - put it in "None" mode when you disconnect at home and it will default to that when you connect again.
Nothing is going to jump onto your phone in the couple of seconds it takes to do this. Also, any windows malware on the PC will really NOT bother an Android phone.
Hi,
My phone was acting really strange, batterydrain, weird software actions, nothing seems to help.
I got the advice to open it, because I didnt had any ganranty left, so I did, it was full of sand from the beach en I could see on the paper marks that I had some waterdamage.
After a few nights of searching I decided to order a new USB connector true Ebay.
So now I replaced it, all is working fine, but still got the batterydrain.
But the biggest problem for now is, that I cant connect with my PC..... Before the replacement this was no problem at all!!
I tried evertything what came up in my mind, New drivers, New KIES, USB debugging, USB Storage....
Do you guys have a solution or some ideas wat I can try?!
Thanks in advanced!
Anyone?
Hey. So the problem is clear but i need more info : system settings about phone and post here. And other thing is did you get any windows error then trying to connect your phone to pc?.
Lars_1808 said:
I tried evertything what came up in my mind, New drivers, New KIES, USB debugging, USB Storage....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try:
- the back usb ports behind your pc
- a different sync (usb) cable
if you have otg an adapter cable test a disk on key to make sure data+\-\sense pins are intact
if the disk on key does not show up works it means
- the micro usb connector is faulty
- software problem
on my front usb ports, i sometimes get mtp "stuck" in xp so i switch to the back ports and it works fine
Mantulis said:
Hey. So the problem is clear but i need more info : system settings about phone and post here. And other thing is did you get any windows error then trying to connect your phone to pc?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
System settings is 4.0.3 ICS Stock Samsung, no root, nothing changed in phone, everyting is as it is when you buy it.
Windows error is that my laptop doesn't recognize the USB device.
Thanks for your reply
iTK said:
try:
- the back usb ports behind your pc
- a different sync (usb) cable
if you have otg an adapter cable test a disk on key to make sure data+\-\sense pins are intact
if the disk on key does not show up works it means
- the micro usb connector is faulty
- software problem
on my front usb ports, i sometimes get mtp "stuck" in xp so i switch to the back ports and it works fine
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply, I have tried all of the USB ports on my laptop and on the PC of a friend, no result.
If I plug it in, my SGS2 will charge, so I guess that the +/- point are ok?
I dont know what a otg an adapter cable is to test a disk or someting.... Sorry I am a noob on this front, can you explain this a little bit more?
Lars_1808 said:
If I plug it in, my SGS2 will charge, so I guess that the +/- point are ok?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no, micro usb has 5 pins
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"vcc" is the positive voltage or "+"
"GND" is ground or "-"
sense is responsible for cable\connection identification by using different resistors bridged between GND and Sense (charger,mhl,otg,audio dock) like so:
Sense-----wire----resistor-----wire----GND
(otg is without resistor)
"data +" & "data -" are for passing digital serial information (usb data)
Lars_1808 said:
I dont know what a otg an adapter cable is to test a disk or someting.... Sorry I am a noob on this front, can you explain this a little bit more?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
a usb OTG adapter is a cable that makes the phone act like a usb port on your computer, and you can use a "usb flash drive" \ "usb stick" \ "usb memory"
so if you can get a otg adapter you can tell if the DATA+ and DATA- pins in your phone usb socket are broken
I don't want to offend you mate but are you sure that USB Debugging mode is on?
Under Settings > Applications > Development you should see an option for USB Debugging -- if that isn't checked you won't be able to mount your phone.
Do you see some errors in Device manager?
If yes, try to update driver marked as error.
You're using the cable that comes with the phone right?
And go to device manager
expend Universal Serial Bus controllers see if you have SAMSUNG mobile USB composite device if not, right click on one of the "USB composite device"* and click update device drivers.
Hope we can come up with solution for you mate.
iTK said:
no, micro usb has 5 pins
"vcc" is the positive voltage or "+"
"GND" is ground or "-"
sense is responsible for cable\connection identification by using different resistors bridged between GND and Sense (charger,mhl,otg,audio dock) like so:
Sense-----wire----resistor-----wire----GND
(otg is without resistor)
"data +" & "data -" are for passing digital serial information (usb data)
a usb OTG adapter is a cable that makes the phone act like a usb port on your computer, and you can use a "usb flash drive" \ "usb stick" \ "usb memory"
so if you can get a otg adapter you can tell if the DATA+ and DATA- pins in your phone usb socket are broken
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WOW!!! THANKS!!!
Thanks for this information, I just orded a OTG cable from Ebay, hope this don't take to long to get it here!
Maybe I can get one somewher here in Holland, but I doubt it !!
If I have some new, I post an update!
Thanks so far!
Mantulis said:
I don't want to offend you mate but are you sure that USB Debugging mode is on?
Under Settings > Applications > Development you should see an option for USB Debugging -- if that isn't checked you won't be able to mount your phone.
Do you see some errors in Device manager?
If yes, try to update driver marked as error.
You're using the cable that comes with the phone right?
And go to device manager
expend Universal Serial Bus controllers see if you have SAMSUNG mobile USB composite device if not, right click on one of the "USB composite device"* and click update device drivers.
Hope we can come up with solution for you mate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No offend taken, but yes I am sure. Thanks for thinking with us!
The error in Device manager is "Unknown USB Device" what you suggest I already tried, but no result.
I have the new drivers, I use the original USB cable, but I switch my USB Connector, witch I order thrue Ebay in China, so maybe there is something different with the connection points in the USB connector.....
That is something I may have to find out with the OTG Cable.
Lars_1808 said:
WOW!!! THANKS!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no problem, i hope i helped :fingers-crossed:
Lars_1808 said:
Thanks for this information, I just orded a OTG cable from Ebay, hope this don't take to long to get it here!
Maybe I can get one somewher here in Holland, but I doubt it !!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
usb otg is standard, i would be shocked if you cant find it at a phone\computer shop in Holland
Lars_1808 said:
If I have some new, I post an update!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i hope it will work out for you, i'm assuming the 1 or 2 of the pins in the middle of the connector are broken, lets just hope i'm wrong
Got my Moto 360 2015 today and quickly realized that the main block to us getting any development on this is that we don't have a way to access it with a computer. I did a partial [very partial] tear down and noticed several pins that could be a usb interface. My question is what would be the most logical way of figuring out what pins do what?
P.S. I know there is a lot of talk about if there is a hidden speaker or not, while I wasn't able to get the watch apart enough to answer definitively it does look like the slot on the side corresponds to a hole under the plastic back... hopefully we'll know more soon.
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Posting this image for smartphone. Couldn't get it posted on his account.
I can't find the pins,,can you find it?
Hey,
Do you have some more information about the pinout? I have the same watch and I want to try connect it to USB, because I can't switch it on, and maybe with USB I can start some recovery mode or something like this.
I also found other "test pads" below the plastic cover with antenna. I found some pins, that I am sure about function. Below I wrote two links to images (I can't add attachment to post - just remove the spaces from the address below):
menuet. no-ip. biz/ images/ moto_360_2015_pinout_back.png
menuet. no-ip. biz/ images/ moto_360_2015_pinout.png
Here is description of pins on the images:
1-Power switch; 2-?; 3-?; 4-Battery; 5-?; 6-GND;
A1-?; A2-?; A3-Antenna; A4-?; A5-USB5V; A6-GND
Maybe you have some other info how to switch on this watch?
Best regards,
menuet
I know this is so old... but maybe someone that is passionate about electronics could find a way to connect usb cable...
There must be a way... The bootloader says this..
I was thinking that in @menuet pictures, A1, A2, A5, A6 could be the 4 wires that should connect to a usb cable
If you're looking to send adb commands to the watch why not use Bluetooth debugging?
https://developer.android.com/training/wearables/apps/bt-debugging.html
I know that... I was hoping to find a way to make a usb cable like for the first generation, and in this way to unlock the bootloader, root...etc...
The 1st gen had pogo pins -- have you checked the corresponding location of the second gen? I'm interested to find out if the layout is the same (although completely enclosed by the case).
stevemw said:
The 1st gen had pogo pins -- have you checked the corresponding location of the second gen? I'm interested to find out if the layout is the same (although completely enclosed by the case).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, didn't checked yet... I don't want to disaasembly my watch yet.. I just added some comments, maybe someone has already an old/broken watch an can check the pins...
@icysea and @SmartphoneER and @menuet posted some pictures that might be helpful...
I don't know electronics. I am just a programmer. BUt I asked one of my colleagues that knows, and he told me that doesn't recognize the new look of the wires...
I think that they made a special cable to access the bootloader...
P.S. I attached, @menuet 's pictures...
Thank you....
UPDATE:
found the full disassembly process: http://it.sohu.com/20160126/n435898447.shtml. It has more technical details...
I remember the white latex-covered finger tips. I came across this teardown a while ago but couldn't find it again.
hei... let's work together and find those PINS... Maybe someone has a broken watch that can use to find out where are the pins for an USB cable...
Motorola did a great job with hiding the pins, but everything that is done by human can be hacked by human....
Some more research done by me:
Maybe we can use some pogo pins (like those attached) to make contact on that golden contacts bands (numbered A5 -A6 etc.) . Now, @menuet found the 5V as A5, and the ground as A6. WE still have 3 more tries (A1, A2, A4) for the data+ and data- from the SUB scheme. I don't know if something will break if we don't guess from the first time the right arrangement, (and we switch data- with data+ ).
And we can make something to hold those pogo pins stabilized (see that sketch made in paint)
Maybe this will be helpful for someone with a broken watch or already disassembled watch
found one more disassembly:
http://www.btspeaker.cn/thread-7582-1-1.html
UPDATE:
Also, seems like swapping the D+ and D- from the USB scheme, doesn't do any harm. Maybe someone can try this. I would have tried on my watch, but I am from Romania and my watch was bought from US. So, no warranty. And it's still functional, and working great....
See here for more details:
http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/73295/in-a-usb-cable-is-it-ok-to-swap-the-d-and-d-wires
This is going to sound weird but I have the second gen and it does appear to have an unlocked bootloader. I noticed because I bought this watch used and I couldn't update. The thing is the guy I bought it from didn't do it. The plastic ring is still on the watch so I don't understand how this was done unless they accessed the pins. Can you even do that over Bluetooth?
I'm posting here because I would need help in regards to this. Otherwise I'm screwed I guess.
You cannot enter fastboot commands through bluetooth... So, the only plausible reason will be that someone, somehow made an interface and unlocked the device..
P.S.
And this will be a very good information... I am waiting for so long for this to happen..
eltigre4jc said:
Some more research done by me:
Maybe we can use some pogo pins (like those attached) to make contact on that golden contacts bands (numbered A5 -A6 etc.) . Now, @menuet found the 5V as A5, and the ground as A6. WE still have 3 more tries (A1, A2, A4) for the data+ and data- from the SUB scheme. I don't know if something will break if we don't guess from the first time the right arrangement, (and we switch data- with data+ ).
And we can make something to hold those pogo pins stabilized (see that sketch made in paint)
Maybe this will be helpful for someone with a broken watch or already disassembled watch
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am almost completely sure that the interface cable has to be built, upon those golden contacts.. If the original poster still has the watch or someone else, that has a broken watch., maybe can try to make an interface..
P.S. a link with another teardown, this time for Moto Sport http://imgur.com/a/yFb4s
eltigre4jc said:
Some more research done by me:
Maybe we can use some pogo pins (like those attached) to make contact on that golden contacts bands (numbered A5 -A6 etc.) . Now, @menuet found the 5V as A5, and the ground as A6. WE still have 3 more tries (A1, A2, A4) for the data+ and data- from the SUB scheme. I don't know if something will break if we don't guess from the first time the right arrangement, (and we switch data- with data+ ).
And we can make something to hold those pogo pins stabilized (see that sketch made in paint)
Maybe this will be helpful for someone with a broken watch or already disassembled watch
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
https://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3965954&d=1481526286
These may in fact serve as the pogo pins found on the 1 gen watch.
stevemw said:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3965954&d=1481526286
These may in fact serve as the pogo pins found on the 1 gen watch.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Gosh, this is awkward. Well guys, i contacted Motorola and gave them pictures of my watch and they say I got a Prototype Watch.
My bootloader is already unlocked on this watch but there is very old user-build firmware installed. I would like to flash the latest one, but as i read this here, its not possible without an USB connection right?
Edit: my watch is also rooted! I debugged it with bluetooth and tried to shell it. I tried ls the /system dir which failed. But after i su'd it listed me the system directory and all files in it.
I removed the plastic ring from my watch so i am able to see the golden contacts now, and I am ready to try to create an interface if someone teaches me how to do that.
My aim is to flash a custom recovery to it like twrp. I noticed there is a moto 360 twrp recovery, so i guess it shouldnt be to hard to port this to the second edition right?
Edit: I am going to create an interface cable with that 4 pins..
Two pins I know, GND and 5V. The other two pins i will need to find out, but basically, if i found the correct ones and they are connected to the watch and the watch is in bootloader, and i do fastboot devices i should see the watch as fastboot device right? (To make sure the interface works ofc.)
I built an interface, but its not recognizing USB. It says unknown device, error while getting device descriptor or something like that. But I only get that device popping up in device manager when i am using pin A1 (no matter Data+ or data-). If i use A2 and a4 for example, then this device doesnt even pop up in device manager. So i guess A1 is for sure either data+ or data-
When it comes to driver stuff now i have no clue. I tried updating the driver and navigated to google usb driver located in android_sdk\extras\google but it said best fitting drivers were already installed...
So i got no clue what to do next now..
Yothri said:
I built an interface, but its not recognizing USB. It says unknown device, error while getting device descriptor or something like that. But I only get that device popping up in device manager when i am using pin A1 (no matter Data+ or data-). If i use A2 and a4 for example, then this device doesnt even pop up in device manager. So i guess A1 is for sure either data+ or data-
When it comes to driver stuff now i have no clue. I tried updating the driver and navigated to google usb driver located in android_sdk\extras\google but it said best fitting drivers were already installed...
So i got no clue what to do next now..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank for trying.. Now, can you, put a picture of the interface you built? And also, can you try to attach the watch through USB to a fresh system, that has no previously installed drivers?
Maybe you can look for drivers for the version one of the watch....
Does anyone know if it's possible to access the PX5's OTG USB using one of the existing external USB connections (without having to pull the head unit apart)? I'm trying to get a USB connection for ADB and came across this on the wiki:
Bootloader mode
Holding the power button while turning on the unit will get you into bootloader mode. **This is battery power not acc power** The screen will be black but plugging in a usb to the front usb will prompt the PC to install the RockChip bootloader drivers - this might help http://www.cnx-software.com/2013/11...install-rockchip-usb-drivers-in-windows-xp78/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I noticed on the MTCD schematic that the MCU has pins for CTL_RECOVERY and CTL_WAKEUP, which leads me to believe it might be possible to program the PX5 in place using some sort key combination. I tried the wiki instructions, but can't get the PX5 get picked up at all on the USB connection.
It depends on the hardware - Some GS might as the original GS has the hardware configuration and switch correctly implemented, which some GS users have reported. Others manufacturer units might not, ostensibly because they messed up the implementation (e.g. my JY or Joying).
Give it try, put device into recovery mode and connect usb port to PC.
Teh crickets!
Oops, pardon the late response. I've given it a try and the manufacturer even sent a special cable (purple connector instead of the white), but I'm unable to get the PC to detect anything on the USB port. Doesn't even try to enumerate a device on Windows.
If it helps, this is a KLD device.
This is a Summary of how I managed to Brick my DualScreen case by Deleting the Firmware on the dual-screen chip. (and Possibly, How it can be fixed)
I was trying to make a Mod for the dual-screen case to be able to use it with other android or windows devices as a type-c display, Using a Type-C extension cable.
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I did a lot of googling and found THIS, apart from that I found nothing useful about the dual-screen case and how it works, so I had to do some digging of my own.I started by extracting all the APKs on my LG G8X that were related to the dual screen case And found an MCU (Microcontroller unit) named “STM32” mentioned inside the “dualscreenfirmware.apk” .dex file, After doing some googling I found that this type of MCU is used in chips like Arduino and other development chips.
Now I had some Basic idea of how the dual-screen case worked, after that, I had to figure out why the dual screen only works with the LG8X and not with the other devices,( yes of course it's because of the software inside the G8X), Again doing some googling brought me to this TEARDOWN video of the dual screen case, in the video I noticed that LG has used a lot of Magnets in the case. Now I did some experiments on my device and found THIS. LG uses these Magnets as the Trigger for the dual-screen case, When you insert the phone inside the dual-screen case the PHONE’s magnet sensor detects the case and activates the USB-C PD (Power Delivery) mode, and starts the Second display function. It also uses a specific type of type-C connection with VCONN, so it does not work when the phone is flipped.
You can go to the Hidden menu on the LG G8X by typing this on the dialer app *#546368#*850# Here I found the Cover Display firmware update option and various other settings. The version of my Dual screen is PIC. There I found the Firmware file name ending with .dfu Again after doing some googling, I found that the STM32 MCU goes to DFU (Device Firmware Update) mode/protocol while updating or flashing the firmware.
I was sure that I can now download and edit or make a firmware file of my own to use the Dual screen case on any device. So I Installed this APP (StmDfuUsb) on my G8X from the play store hoping that I will be able to download/extract the firmware file from the Case itself. I was yet to figure out how the Dual-screen goes to DFU mode for it to be detected on this App. After a lot of Googling and trying to figure it out for a while, I accidentally found it, I went to the Hidden menu and pressed the update cover display option, but this time a pop-up comes up saying open with this app(StmDfuUsb), so I click on it and voila, Now my dual-screen was in DFU mode and it was connected to the app,(as excited as I was) without thinking I tried to download the firmware file to the phone, but I ended up pressing the Erase Flash option instead, Bam... the dual screen went off right in front of me. (Not realizing what I just did) dual-screen was still connected in DFU mode (but stupid me) I removed my phone from the case and Re-Inserted it, but this time it only Connected to my phone as a USB, and changing the USB configuration did nothing but it reattached the USB connection. I went back to the hidden menu to put the dual screen back on DFU mode, and to update the firmware, It showed THIS ERROR, as the dual screen was not detected by the phone as a USB Device the phone was not able to get control of it, also the Buttons on the Case did not work,(At this point I realize that I F**dup) I Started downloading different Apps for USB and STM devices but found it all useless. Also, it does not get detected in windows pc as a USB connection, tried both on a USB A 3.0 port and Type- C port with a USB C extension cable.
After trying for a couple of days, I decided to take the device to the Service Center. I explained the problem to the LG technician “I accidentally deleted the firmware while working on an Arduino chip via OTG”, (of course I’m not gonna tell him that I was trying to modify it.) He tries to diagnose the issue and he told me that the problem was with the USB port on the case and it needs to be replaced, (He thought there was no firmware inside the Dual-scree case, I was Infuriated) After a few minutes of arguing with him, I told him to order the part, as he told me that they won't charge me anything if it didn't work even after the replacement ( the Type-C port was ₹1600 approx), and there, I return after two days to get the port replaced, and as expected the Dual-screen still in the same condition after USB port replacement (I told you so moment), So the technician now believes me and calls his senior management on phone, and now he does not understand the problem, he told me that they do not have the firmware seperately for the Dual-screen and they do not have the authority to access the firmware, they just replace parts, he said they can replace the PCB inside the dual-Screen, Now I know that will solve my problem as the new PCB will come with the Firmware built in, but it was not the solution I was looking for, I told the technician to place the order for the part (which costs around ₹1500), then I return home.
Now, I did not want to spend ₹1500 for a thing that can be fixed with the software. Thinking about this problem got me to blame LG for hiding the information and resources about the Dual screen, so I Emailed LG Service India Head and LG CEO office from the LG India website. Meanwhile, I also asked for High res pics of the PCB/Motherboard, from the same guy who did the TEARDOWN video and got it HERE. I also got the .DFU Firmware file from a guy with a Rooted G8X (The file is stored inside the phone under system files).
Now I know this problem can be fixed easily if LG reveals the information about the Dual screen and provides the Repair guide and relevant resources (Still Emailing them to escalate this Issue #RightToRepair). Also, I’m relying on the LG community and its developers that can help me get my dual screen working again. I have provided all the Information and resources that I think can solve this issue, if I’ve missed something please let me know.
My guess for possible solutions are-
An App can detect the USB device and put it in a different connection mode. (Possibly to DFU mode)
These Pins/contact points on the PCB can be used to put the device on bootloader/ DFU mode like on an Arduino chip. (I need to find the right jumper pins.)
Using the 3 Buttons on the case to put it in Bootloader/DFU mode. (I have tried a few combinations, but No luck)
-SDK
Go look at this post also
[LG TOOLS] LG-KDZ-dll-Tool/LGUP_UI-fixer/LG-Kdz-downloader
Please, do not share elsewhere as I want to be able to update if necessary ! LG-KDZ-dll-Tool/KDZ dll extractor (=old version) : this message actually, scroll down a bit... LGUP_UI-fixer LG-Kdz-downloader Share this thread or my blog instead...
forum.xda-developers.com
Hi. I stepped upon this thread looking for disassembly method due to broken hinge. Case is using STM32F411 chip to create HID device (aka touchscreen and buttons support) along with power management. STM32 can enter FW download mode (aka DFU) with Boot0 pin connected to VCC before RCC performs initial reset sequence. That being said, procedure is:
1. Disconnect case from phone (or PC, as I believe it can be done using PC too)
2. Short 3.3V_MCU_VDD to BOOT_DOWNLOAD pin
3. With these pins shorted together, connect case to phone or pc
4. Verify connection in DFU app (or STM32CubeProg if you are using PC)
5. Upload firmware
@enkidu.eu
Hi. I tried your method and sucess upload the firmware for my bricked dualscreen.
My phone is LG V50s and my dual screen firmware version is LMV515N-V30a_00.dfu
Sadly my dual screen touch is ok, but nothing show up. I mean it's like screen brightness is set to zero. All other functionality is fine.
Do you have any idea why?
Is my dualscreen broken or the firmware problem.