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So I have i9100 with broken screen. I thought I'll replace the screen and have good cell phone
Fortunately, before I've ordered the screen, I wanted to try if everything else is working properly. I can turn on the phone - bottom capacitive keys light up, and after a while I hear some sound from the speaker. Then I can "lock" and "unlock" it - when I press the lock button (unlock the phone), capacitive keys light up and then when I press it again (lock it) capacitive keys turn off. So that's working.
After that I've tried to connect it to a computer. That didn't work as I expected If I connect it to the computer while it's turned off, I get this message:
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and in the device manager there is Unknown device with the following error message:
Also, wrong vendor ID and product ID are reported:
If I connect it to a computer while it's turned on, I can hear the sound that it makes when you connect USB cable. But unfortunately I get the same error messages.
Any idea what could be the problem? What are the chances that this can be fixed by changing the USB board?
xx77aBs said:
So I have i9100 with broken screen. I thought I'll replace the screen and have good cell phone
Fortunately, before I've ordered the screen, I wanted to try if everything else is working properly. I can turn on the phone - bottom capacitive keys light up, and after a while I hear some sound from the speaker. Then I can "lock" and "unlock" it - when I press the lock button (unlock the phone), capacitive keys light up and then when I press it again (lock it) capacitive keys turn off. So that's working.
After that I've tried to connect it to a computer. That didn't work as I expected If I connect it to the computer while it's turned off, I get this message:
and in the device manager there is Unknown device with the following error message:
Also, wrong vendor ID and product ID are reported:
If I connect it to a computer while it's turned on, I can hear the sound that it makes when you connect USB cable. But unfortunately I get the same error messages.
Any idea what could be the problem? What are the chances that this can be fixed by changing the USB board?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems like the 'Micro USB' is damaged, u can always get it replaced @ an affordable price for sure
By "Micro USB" do you mean this?
I can order it and replace it my self, but what are the chances that something else is wrong (e.g. the motherboard itself)?
xx77aBs said:
By "Micro USB" do you mean this?
I can order it and replace it my self, but what are the chances that something else is wrong (e.g. the motherboard itself)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well once u replace the screen then u can see, what best u can do since as of now ur handicapped without a working screen
Sun90 said:
well once u replace the screen then u can see, what best u can do since as of now ur handicapped without a working screen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that's the problem. I've already bought this broken cell phone (I thought that only screen was broken) and I don't want to invest more money in it if in the end it will turn out that the motherboard is also not working properly. I'll order USB replacement and if it's not working with new USB board, I'll just cut my losses.
xx77aBs said:
that's the problem. I've already bought this broken cell phone (I thought that only screen was broken) and I don't want to invest more money in it if in the end it will turn out that the motherboard is also not working properly. I'll order USB replacement and if it's not working with new USB board, I'll just cut my losses.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are THREE versions of this board.
They are......
REV2.2, REV2.3 and REV2.4.
The REV number is printed (in VERY small printing) on the board......
They are NOT interchangeable, so make sure you get the right one.......
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda app-developers app
keithross39 said:
There are THREE versions of this board.
They are......
REV2.2, REV2.3 and REV2.4.
The REV number is printed (in VERY small printing) on the board......
They are NOT interchangeable, so make sure you get the right one.......
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that I didn't know!
Unfortunately, I've already ordered this one:
it says REV0.2 ??
I've just now checked and I have REV2.2, so will this be compatible? Or should I just try and cancel the order?
EDIT: I just saw i9100T on the picture... I'll contact the seller and ask him which board he's selling.
I can also see some other designations: R.B71 37. Do I need to also match these?
No...it's just the rev version you need to match.....
And the fact that the board you've ordered is for a different variant of the phone could also be 'problematic'......
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda app-developers app
Great, thanks!
Got my Moto 360 2015 today and quickly realized that the main block to us getting any development on this is that we don't have a way to access it with a computer. I did a partial [very partial] tear down and noticed several pins that could be a usb interface. My question is what would be the most logical way of figuring out what pins do what?
P.S. I know there is a lot of talk about if there is a hidden speaker or not, while I wasn't able to get the watch apart enough to answer definitively it does look like the slot on the side corresponds to a hole under the plastic back... hopefully we'll know more soon.
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Posting this image for smartphone. Couldn't get it posted on his account.
I can't find the pins,,can you find it?
Hey,
Do you have some more information about the pinout? I have the same watch and I want to try connect it to USB, because I can't switch it on, and maybe with USB I can start some recovery mode or something like this.
I also found other "test pads" below the plastic cover with antenna. I found some pins, that I am sure about function. Below I wrote two links to images (I can't add attachment to post - just remove the spaces from the address below):
menuet. no-ip. biz/ images/ moto_360_2015_pinout_back.png
menuet. no-ip. biz/ images/ moto_360_2015_pinout.png
Here is description of pins on the images:
1-Power switch; 2-?; 3-?; 4-Battery; 5-?; 6-GND;
A1-?; A2-?; A3-Antenna; A4-?; A5-USB5V; A6-GND
Maybe you have some other info how to switch on this watch?
Best regards,
menuet
I know this is so old... but maybe someone that is passionate about electronics could find a way to connect usb cable...
There must be a way... The bootloader says this..
I was thinking that in @menuet pictures, A1, A2, A5, A6 could be the 4 wires that should connect to a usb cable
If you're looking to send adb commands to the watch why not use Bluetooth debugging?
https://developer.android.com/training/wearables/apps/bt-debugging.html
I know that... I was hoping to find a way to make a usb cable like for the first generation, and in this way to unlock the bootloader, root...etc...
The 1st gen had pogo pins -- have you checked the corresponding location of the second gen? I'm interested to find out if the layout is the same (although completely enclosed by the case).
stevemw said:
The 1st gen had pogo pins -- have you checked the corresponding location of the second gen? I'm interested to find out if the layout is the same (although completely enclosed by the case).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, didn't checked yet... I don't want to disaasembly my watch yet.. I just added some comments, maybe someone has already an old/broken watch an can check the pins...
@icysea and @SmartphoneER and @menuet posted some pictures that might be helpful...
I don't know electronics. I am just a programmer. BUt I asked one of my colleagues that knows, and he told me that doesn't recognize the new look of the wires...
I think that they made a special cable to access the bootloader...
P.S. I attached, @menuet 's pictures...
Thank you....
UPDATE:
found the full disassembly process: http://it.sohu.com/20160126/n435898447.shtml. It has more technical details...
I remember the white latex-covered finger tips. I came across this teardown a while ago but couldn't find it again.
hei... let's work together and find those PINS... Maybe someone has a broken watch that can use to find out where are the pins for an USB cable...
Motorola did a great job with hiding the pins, but everything that is done by human can be hacked by human....
Some more research done by me:
Maybe we can use some pogo pins (like those attached) to make contact on that golden contacts bands (numbered A5 -A6 etc.) . Now, @menuet found the 5V as A5, and the ground as A6. WE still have 3 more tries (A1, A2, A4) for the data+ and data- from the SUB scheme. I don't know if something will break if we don't guess from the first time the right arrangement, (and we switch data- with data+ ).
And we can make something to hold those pogo pins stabilized (see that sketch made in paint)
Maybe this will be helpful for someone with a broken watch or already disassembled watch
found one more disassembly:
http://www.btspeaker.cn/thread-7582-1-1.html
UPDATE:
Also, seems like swapping the D+ and D- from the USB scheme, doesn't do any harm. Maybe someone can try this. I would have tried on my watch, but I am from Romania and my watch was bought from US. So, no warranty. And it's still functional, and working great....
See here for more details:
http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/73295/in-a-usb-cable-is-it-ok-to-swap-the-d-and-d-wires
This is going to sound weird but I have the second gen and it does appear to have an unlocked bootloader. I noticed because I bought this watch used and I couldn't update. The thing is the guy I bought it from didn't do it. The plastic ring is still on the watch so I don't understand how this was done unless they accessed the pins. Can you even do that over Bluetooth?
I'm posting here because I would need help in regards to this. Otherwise I'm screwed I guess.
You cannot enter fastboot commands through bluetooth... So, the only plausible reason will be that someone, somehow made an interface and unlocked the device..
P.S.
And this will be a very good information... I am waiting for so long for this to happen..
eltigre4jc said:
Some more research done by me:
Maybe we can use some pogo pins (like those attached) to make contact on that golden contacts bands (numbered A5 -A6 etc.) . Now, @menuet found the 5V as A5, and the ground as A6. WE still have 3 more tries (A1, A2, A4) for the data+ and data- from the SUB scheme. I don't know if something will break if we don't guess from the first time the right arrangement, (and we switch data- with data+ ).
And we can make something to hold those pogo pins stabilized (see that sketch made in paint)
Maybe this will be helpful for someone with a broken watch or already disassembled watch
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am almost completely sure that the interface cable has to be built, upon those golden contacts.. If the original poster still has the watch or someone else, that has a broken watch., maybe can try to make an interface..
P.S. a link with another teardown, this time for Moto Sport http://imgur.com/a/yFb4s
eltigre4jc said:
Some more research done by me:
Maybe we can use some pogo pins (like those attached) to make contact on that golden contacts bands (numbered A5 -A6 etc.) . Now, @menuet found the 5V as A5, and the ground as A6. WE still have 3 more tries (A1, A2, A4) for the data+ and data- from the SUB scheme. I don't know if something will break if we don't guess from the first time the right arrangement, (and we switch data- with data+ ).
And we can make something to hold those pogo pins stabilized (see that sketch made in paint)
Maybe this will be helpful for someone with a broken watch or already disassembled watch
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
https://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3965954&d=1481526286
These may in fact serve as the pogo pins found on the 1 gen watch.
stevemw said:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3965954&d=1481526286
These may in fact serve as the pogo pins found on the 1 gen watch.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Gosh, this is awkward. Well guys, i contacted Motorola and gave them pictures of my watch and they say I got a Prototype Watch.
My bootloader is already unlocked on this watch but there is very old user-build firmware installed. I would like to flash the latest one, but as i read this here, its not possible without an USB connection right?
Edit: my watch is also rooted! I debugged it with bluetooth and tried to shell it. I tried ls the /system dir which failed. But after i su'd it listed me the system directory and all files in it.
I removed the plastic ring from my watch so i am able to see the golden contacts now, and I am ready to try to create an interface if someone teaches me how to do that.
My aim is to flash a custom recovery to it like twrp. I noticed there is a moto 360 twrp recovery, so i guess it shouldnt be to hard to port this to the second edition right?
Edit: I am going to create an interface cable with that 4 pins..
Two pins I know, GND and 5V. The other two pins i will need to find out, but basically, if i found the correct ones and they are connected to the watch and the watch is in bootloader, and i do fastboot devices i should see the watch as fastboot device right? (To make sure the interface works ofc.)
I built an interface, but its not recognizing USB. It says unknown device, error while getting device descriptor or something like that. But I only get that device popping up in device manager when i am using pin A1 (no matter Data+ or data-). If i use A2 and a4 for example, then this device doesnt even pop up in device manager. So i guess A1 is for sure either data+ or data-
When it comes to driver stuff now i have no clue. I tried updating the driver and navigated to google usb driver located in android_sdk\extras\google but it said best fitting drivers were already installed...
So i got no clue what to do next now..
Yothri said:
I built an interface, but its not recognizing USB. It says unknown device, error while getting device descriptor or something like that. But I only get that device popping up in device manager when i am using pin A1 (no matter Data+ or data-). If i use A2 and a4 for example, then this device doesnt even pop up in device manager. So i guess A1 is for sure either data+ or data-
When it comes to driver stuff now i have no clue. I tried updating the driver and navigated to google usb driver located in android_sdk\extras\google but it said best fitting drivers were already installed...
So i got no clue what to do next now..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank for trying.. Now, can you, put a picture of the interface you built? And also, can you try to attach the watch through USB to a fresh system, that has no previously installed drivers?
Maybe you can look for drivers for the version one of the watch....
Introduction
When it comes to Android TV sticks, I'm a bit of a seasoned veteran. I still own a Uhost1 and was the first person in the UK to own a Uhost2 (in fact, the fourth in the entire world) thanks to some connections I had to Smallart, the company behind that device. I really do believe that these little devices have the potential to be something a tad special, if done right of course. That brings me onto this little device:
The Transpeed MK809V, also known as the CX939. Let's be honest, the numbering/naming is completely irrelevant nowadays, because there are different versions of the same named device, which all contain different chipsets and functionality. I was able to get this one in the 11/11 AliExpress sale for just £15 (http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/7084183665.html?orderId=70864234952489)
Specification
CPU: Quad-Core RK3128
Android: 4.4.2 (yet the ROM says 4.4.4?)
GPU: Embedded 3D GPU Mali 400, High frequency 500Mhz, Support OpenGL ES 1.1/2.0
RAM: 1GB
NAND: 8GB
Photos
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In The Box
Transpeed Android TV Stick
2A USB Wall Charger, UK Plug (yes, that's right a UK plug)
Female to Male HDMI Extension Cable
Micro USB Cable
OTG USB Cable
Instruction Manual
There's probably £5 worth of cables and bits and bobs in the box, bringing the actual cost of the dongle down to about £10-£11. Crazy.
First Impressions
The device is about the size of a Chromecast v1. It doesn't weigh much at all, I'd have no problem sticking this directly into a HDMI port (but I'll use the extension just to be safe). There is a red slide bar on top of the device with absolutely no explanation of what it actually does. The instructions are borderline unreadable, so they're not much use. On the bottom of the device is a sort of vent and what looks like a pin hole in one of the corners. There is a full size USB port, and two mini USB Ports respectively. It is not clear exactly which is the power source. There is a pin hole next to one of the sockets on the side, so I've assumed this is most likely the power source.
The device boots pretty quick actually, for a cheap device. The interface is slick and smooth, buttery as they say. It's running some sort of Lollipop launcher (not sure if it's Now Launcher), which feels smooth but the app switcher takes me back a year or two (horizontal slide thing). It comes with Kodi and Show Box pre-installed along with a few other apps and Google Play Services. The firmware is very AOSP with almost nothing in the way of customized launchers etc.
There are a few little issues I've noticed, the AOSP keyboard seems to sometimes double play the sound when you click a key. It has a really tough time coping with my IR remote, I think this is to do with the Rockchip issue I speak about below. Still, the plan is to install Droidmote.
Connectivity
The one thing that often lets these little devices down, is the Wi-Fi, but so far, the Wi-Fi on this has been very very solid. I've not done a speed test yet, but I will when I get chance.
I was also pleasantly surprised to see Bluetooth with a fully functioning stack which includes file transfer, I tried this and it works well.
Disassembly
Taking this device apart is probably as easy as you could hope for. There are 8 clips spread evenly around the device. Pop the top ones nearest the HDMI port (either side) first and then work your way down and it falls apart. These clips do break pretty easy so I imagine a few of these will be held together with tape soon enough.
BE CAREFUL, the WiFi antenna is soldered directly onto the motherboard and is stuck onto the casing.
So interestingly, the red slide bar does absolutely nothing. It's not connected to anything, and it's certainly not doing anything, which is a shame considering what you'll read about the pin hole later.
Rockchip board, very similar to the FireFly FirePrime.
Soldering is a tad iffy on the Wi-Fi antenna.
Underside of the board.
Rear vent case.
Scratch on a chip, plus the poxy recovery button is also damaged slightly. Read why further down.
Disassembly also reveals the pin hole on the back leads to absolutely nothing, which might be misleading for some. Do not stick your pin in there as you'll simply scratch your circuit board.
Rooting
Rooting this device took all of about 2 minutes. Although SuperSu detects root, it is unable to install its own root binaries. However, KingRoot (http://www.kingroot.net) has absolutely no problem and roots it in under 2 minutes. I will probably replace the KingRoot binaries with SuperSu binaries, but for the moment, this will do.
Recovery/Flashing
WARNING: Please read the Problems/Issues section regarding the pin hole.
To access the recovery (which from the factory is just a standard Android 'no command' recovery) press pin hole while plugging in power from wall socket, keep hold until you see Android Recovery on your TV/Monitor.
To access RK flashing mode, you MUST install the drivers first using the DriverAssist tool. I will include all of this stuff as attachments to this post. Once the drivers are installed, press the pin while plugging into your computer, Rockchip class devices should appear. You can now flash using BatchTool or AndroidTool.
Problems/Issues
- Build quality. While the device itself runs nicely and works okay, the build quality leaves a lot to be desired in my opinion. I suppose you pay for what you get. The case doesn't fit quite as well as other TV sticks, but I'm willing to turn a blind eye.
- Pin hole. What I'm not willing to turn a blind eye to is this disasterous implementation. On the Uhost (and Uhost2), Smallart simply put a small case button above the little SMD switch, easy as pie to use. This device simply has a pin hole on the case, and you're required to put a pin through. The problem is the circuit board doesn't sit perfectly inside the case (most of these cases are universal anyway), therefore you'll often find yourself poking around inside this little device desperately trying to find the switch. Luckily, I don't think there's anything you can really damage, however looking at my photos above, you can see where I actually scratched the top of a chip and also chipped the switch as well. I now only operate that switch after disassembling the device, although at a push, you could use a small screwdriver designed for mobile phones as these are usually small enough to get through the hole but bigger than a pin. Why didn't they just use that slide? It would have been so easy to implement a switch.
- Droidmote. Rockchip have this thing about messing up the input to Android, this means Droidmote doesn't really work properly without some changes. However, the issue is that changing the lib file in my case caused a soft brick. It's possible to fix this in external keyboard helper, but will need to do some investigation on this.
- USB. The USB implementation is a bit iffy for some reason. It has no problem with my IR remote and also had no issues with a USB keyboard, however I plugged a USB mouse in and actually soft bricked the device. I had to flash the firmware to fix this.
Firmware/ROMs
Stock Firmware -
4.4.2 (labelled as 4.4.4) - https://mega.nz/#!C45iTKKQ!bQaow8xVpjKb1nYZbIe_mQx1R8B574Ikt1kZA9J44VU
Mods
TODO
Development
It's rare that any kind of development can take off for these devices, but this little thing shares the same chip and hardware as a very popular dev board called the Firefly FirePrime (http://wiki.t-firefly.com/index.php/FirePrime/en). Not only does this board share almost identical hardware, they have uploaded the source for a 5.1 Lollipop build. Now, I've compiled this but I'm yet to flash it yet. I am wary about going ahead and flashing before I do some research into exactly what is going to happen. However I may flash the kernel.img, resource.img and system.img as a test to see if I can get anything to happen. I imagine to begin with, it'll be completely broken, but there's no reason that with some effort I can't make this work.
Status:
CWM - In Progress
Lollipop - Alpha (http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=64253545&postcount=4)
Working: Audio, Video (needs further testing), USB, SD Card, Reboot
Broken: WiFi, Bluetooth, HDMI Mode, HDMI Scaling, Sleep, Shutdown, Others?
CyanogenMod(?) - In Progress
Hopefully others with this device can talk about it and share their experiences.
I actually used one of these with a lot of pleasure for quite some time before I moved to a full sized box. I'll be watching this thread carefully as I still have the stick lying around and have been wondering whether I should do something with it. So much potential shouldnt go wasted
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Glad to see I'm not the only one using this cheery little device.
Incredibly, after just three attempts and a few changes to the code (nothing major), I've been able to get it to successfully boot lollipop. Has to be the fastest port I've ever done. It's pretty alpha, wifi is broken, Bluetooth is broken and there's no way to scale the screen or change the hdmi mode, so it's stuck in 720p mode right now. Still, it's all proof I need that this device can handle lollipop. Those features can be sorted pretty easily. The interface is seriously slick. Very fast and smooth.
I tried to upload some photos but the xda app isn't working for me lol.
Sent from my GT-I9505 using XDA Free mobile app
Photos of lollipop 5.1.1 working. Are there any Android tv sticks out there that actually run lollipop or is this the first?
It's certainly the first that cost less than £15
Sent from my GT-I9505 using XDA Free mobile app
Wow! This looks really promising! I just bought the same one as well. Will probably take a month before I receive it though.
horizophon said:
Wow! This looks really promising! I just bought the same one as well. Will probably take a month before I receive it though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine didn't take too long to come. About 2 weeks I think. It's a decent enough device right out the box, Kodi is fully loaded with goodies and Show Box works well, but I think with all the potential it has, it would be a waste not to at least explore some sort of Lollipop ROM. We all know that the manufacturer is unlikely to put out another ROM anyway. They tend to get a single ROM bug free then quit while they're ahead.
Interestingly, my USB Mouse now doesn't soft brick the device. Clearly something is up with the stock firmware and that mouse. Anyway, I'm going to spend today investing the WiFi and how to get it working.
Good luck!
Building a new image, hopefully the Wifi and bluetooth should work with this image. That's half the fun of course. One of the biggest issues I'm having is it appears to be impossible to flash a singlee partition image to this device, otherwise you soft brick it. Pain in the arse.
Some more work today, let's see if I can get this WiFi working.
Here we go, first boot of the new Lollipop build built by me with the correct connectivity chipsets etc. Will WiFi be working, or will it be broken still ?
Edit:
In fact, will it even boot
Yep, it boots. WiFi now causes reboot lol
2nd Edit:
Pretty obvious looking at logcat why it's not working.... Android still thinks it's using the Firefly AP6212 Wi-Fi. Need to work out why that is.
Still working on the WiFi, might not be as easy as I first thought to get this WiFi fixed. No SDK whatsoever for it, so I'm using an SDK for a similar chipset that is publicly available. I have a .ko file which should work but it won't insmod for some reason.
The funs of building from other peoples code. The .mk files are a complete mess. Still, looks like I'm slowly getting there.
Sounds like a challenge, good luck!
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Finally got it to build using this RealTek SDK from t'interweb. Did require some changes though and I had to find a few libraries that seemingly aren't really used anymore, plus a few hacks thrown in there to make those libs work, so I really don't know what's going to happen here. Currently on the Android boot screen. It might boot, it might crash, it might boot-loop, I really don't know.
At an educated guess, I Imagine it'll boot but I fully expect it to fail when switching on WiFi.
Edit: Boots OK. Few BT force closes, might have to freeze BT for the moment. WiFi still dead. Let's try get some logs shall we
Quick update, feel as though I've hit a bit of a brick wall with this WiFi implementation. Can't get it it to insmod the modules from 4.4 (no surprise) but don't have the source to build newer 5.1.1 modules. The source I do have doesn't seem to work, so either I am missing something or there's a configuration issue. I will continue over the next few days but can see this being a real ballache. I may investigate whether we can use a USB wifi, at least temporarily while I work out a way in which we can use the inbuilt Wi-Fi. With so few people owning this hardware, that also makes it difficult as it's a one man project
On a side note though, I have been able to get it to run Ubuntu lol! It's a trimmed down version but it runs surprisingly nicely. Audio is broken, so is WiFi but USB Ethernet works well and was browsing and even installed Kodi onto it.
Who'da thunk it ?
Received mine today! Took me three minutes to brick it. :good: Couldn't stop myself from trying ART. Now i can't make the drivers work with W10. In fact it doesn't even show up as an unknown device... :silly: Will try with Ubuntu in the morning.
horizophon said:
Received mine today! Took me three minutes to brick it. :good: Couldn't stop myself from trying ART. Now i can't make the drivers work with W10. In fact it doesn't even show up as an unknown device... :silly: Will try with Ubuntu in the morning.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It won't be hard bricked.
Sent from my GT-I9505 using XDA Free mobile app
To access RK flashing mode, you MUST install the drivers first using the DriverAssist tool. I will include all of this stuff as attachments to this post. Once the drivers are installed, press the pin while plugging into your computer, Rockchip class devices should appear. You can now flash using BatchTool or AndroidTool.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And where ?
@skezza Do you have any update? I have this TV stick, but it has a fake 1080p (upscalled from 720p). Do you have another kernel for this tv stick or maybe a kernel sources ? (I have found about 4 firmwares for this stick, but all of the has a fake 1080p)
Anyone notice video playback in Kodi stutters badly. (Mkv and Mp4 ..especially 1080p)
Sometimes after few mins, but shows up immediately if, along the time line bar, jump back and fort, once or twice.
Easily seen at movie end credits.
Tried few different firmwares all have same issue.
To add to my previous post, my Rk3128 board looks this.
http://www.cnx-software.com/2015/12...ith-512mb-ram-8gb-storage-sell-for-15-and-up/
FirePrime Lollipop works fine, but no WiFi.
Surprisingly snappy for a 512MB DDR board.
I know the problem looks similar but
I have a Fire HDX 7 that is not recognized by windows 7, two laptops. My huawei p9 is recognized perfectly. Recent amazon drivers are installed.
The device is not even visible in device manager, by can be charged by laptop. I have tried about 4-5 cables already on each of two laptops with win 7.
OS version 4.5.5.3
Any suggestion? Any way to check if it is hardware problem or software?
naixx said:
I know the problem looks similar but
I have a Fire HDX 7 that is not recognized by windows 7, two laptops. My huawei p9 is recognized perfectly. Recent amazon drivers are installed.
The device is not even visible in device manager, by can be charged by laptop. I have tried about 4-5 cables already on each of two laptops with win 7.
OS version 4.5.5.3
Any suggestion? Any way to check if it is hardware problem or software?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the HDX is not recognized in Windows Device Manager any of the three primary modes (unlocked FireOS, recovery and/or bootloader/fastboot) one of the data pins in the USB connector is likely damaged or otherwise nonfunctional. Be sure compatible drivers are available on the host; for whatever reason Motorola drivers seem to work best on Windows. Install the manager linked below; you do not need to launch it.
https://motorola-global-en-aus.custhelp.com/app/answers/prod_detail/a_id/86934/p/154,4222
Davey126 said:
If the HDX is not recognized in Windows Device Manager any of the three primary modes (unlocked FireOS, recovery and/or bootloader/fastboot) one of the data pins in the USB connector is likely damaged or otherwise nonfunctional. Be sure compatible drivers are available on the host; for whatever reason Motorola drivers seem to work best on Windows. Install the manager linked below; you do not need to launch it.
https://motorola-global-en-aus.custhelp.com/app/answers/prod_detail/a_id/86934/p/154,4222
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just tried that. No luck. Downgraded to 13.3.2.8 - no luck. It seems that the problem is with USB.
What I want is to install vanilla android on the device. It seems root can be acquired without USB, but bootloader not. So are there any good tutorials on how to take apart Kindle HDX 7? Checked youtube - not that detailed tutorials that I want probably.
Thinking to order a new USB and battery on aliexpress
naixx said:
Just tried that. No luck. Downgraded to 13.3.2.8 - no luck. It seems that the problem is with USB.
What I want is to install vanilla android on the device. It seems root can be acquired without USB, but bootloader not. So are there any good tutorials on how to take apart Kindle HDX 7? Checked youtube - not that detailed tutorials that I want probably.
Thinking to order a new USB and battery on aliexpress
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For the same appx cost you can probably score a gently used HDX 7. Cracking open a HDX is not for the faint of heart due to copious use of industrial strength glue. Good luck.
Blame it to all Quick Charge 2.0 and 3.0 Chargers!
I almost have the same problem, Back to my old stock locked bootlader, everything was working fine, i can conmect my KFH on my pc and i can aldo charge using my tronsmart QC 3.0 charger, all of the happy moment was gone, until i've managed to unlocked the bootlaser(limeage 14.1 installed), the first thing i did'nt notice about it, then one day my kindle charges so slow, and i even cant connect it to my pc, looks like ive been screwed up, im still searching for solutions.. any ideas?
ChickenKyrie said:
I almost have the same problem, Back to my old stock locked bootlader, everything was working fine, i can conmect my KFH on my pc and i can aldo charge using my tronsmart QC 3.0 charger, all of the happy moment was gone, until i've managed to unlocked the bootlaser(limeage 14.1 installed), the first thing i did'nt notice about it, then one day my kindle charges so slow, and i even cant connect it to my pc, looks like ive been screwed up, im still searching for solutions.. any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HDX was not designed for higher voltage delivered by QC 3.0 chargers; may have fried some internals.
For reference, max uptake for a 3rd (and likely 4th) gen HDX is 9W/1.8A at 5V. That can be delivered by *ANY* decent charge brick rated at 2A or better. No need for a QC or other speciality charger. HDX devices can not take advantage of the capabilities of such chargers and may be damaged if proper voltage is not negotiated (i.e. anything significantly above 5V).
Seems my problem is usb connector
For anyone interested
The problem was in USB cable(the price about $8), I ordered a new one, replaced it and kindle is now fully recognized by windows!
Unfortunately, I've broken the glass So touch is not working for about 20% of the screen. So stupid mistake, pushed a little bit too much. Anyways I didn't use that kindle for at least 2 years, wanted to make it vanilla android
naixx said:
For anyone interested
The problem was in USB cable(the price about $8), I ordered a new one, replaced it and kindle is now fully recognized by windows!
Unfortunately, I've broken the glass So touch is not working for about 20% of the screen. So stupid mistake, pushed a little bit too much. Anyways I didn't use that kindle for at least 2 years, wanted to make it vanilla android
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For the benefit of future readers: crappy cables are the root cause of most HDX USB connectivity issues. A cable that works in some scenarios (charging; adb) may not work in others (fastboot). No one wants to believe this as a cable is a cable, right? What could go wrong?? Read through 5+ years of posts where the eureka moment occurs only after swapping out the umbilical cord.
FWIW - I did not suggest a cable to the OP as he/she stated "4-5 cables" were already tried.
Davey126 said:
For the benefit of future readers: crappy cables are the root cause of most HDX USB connectivity issues. A cable that works in some scenarios (charging; adb) may not work in others (fastboot). No one wants to believe this as a cable is a cable, right? What could go wrong?? Read through 5+ years of posts where the eureka moment occurs only after swapping out the umbilical cord.
FWIW - I did not suggest a cable to the OP as he/she stated "4-5 cables" were already tried.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, there is some misunderstanding. I replaced usb port, not cable
Like this one
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naixx said:
Sorry, there is some misunderstanding. I replaced usb port, not cable
Like this one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah - I did misunderstand. Thanks for the clarification! This item (cause) was suggested in an earlier post. Glad you got it fixed - albeit not without panel damage. Tough break after getting it open w/o cracking the case or screen.
Wow, I was hoping that it was just the cable as in your first response (still agreed with DB126 that the usb cable is usually the problem in these situations). But it looks like this time it's the actual port. I am not happy to hear this. My cable works for adb with my pixel 2xl, so it's probably not the cable. :'(
Any ideas on how to fix the port without breaking my HDX like the OP did? I don't want to open it up if I can help it. Perhaps I can use a circuit tester to see which pin is not working well, and possibly bend it or otherwise fix it manually without replacing?
Hi guys, i am looking for some help as my Realme GT2 Pro is dead bricked (ie. no response to buttons + usb)
I was able to open the back cover but i am not sure which are the correct test points for EDL mode.
Below is the picture of the motherboard. Would someone be able to help?
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Normally EDL test points are a pair of contacts, sometimes conspicuous, sometimes not.
I would not generally recommend just shorting any two points, it would be possible to short and destroy something.
Do you have any resistors? 200 ohm to 3000 ohm would be ok. Higher might work, lower might harm something.
If you have a voltmeter you can check first. One point should register ~1.8V the other should be basically 0V.
The pair of test points near the white coax and the pair of test point alongside the black coax seem like candidates.
This is a Qualcomm thing, yes?
In worst case you can try to defeat the flash memory, but that's another subject.
Renate said:
Normally EDL test points are a pair of contacts, sometimes conspicuous, sometimes not.
I would not generally recommend just shorting any two points, it would be possible to short and destroy something.
Do you have any resistors? 200 ohm to 3000 ohm would be ok. Higher might work, lower might harm something.
If you have a voltmeter you can check first. One point should register ~1.8V the other should be basically 0V.
The pair of test points near the white coax and the pair of test point alongside the black coax seem like candidates.
This is a Qualcomm thing, yes?
In worst case you can try to defeat the flash memory, but that's another subject.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the detailed guide. Yes this is qualcomm chip.
I tried short connecting the pairs near the white coax and black coax but they are not giving me any signal.
I tried short connecting 2 of the 6 pins in the middle and it is responding. "usb descriptor failed" shows up in the device manager. However this seems to reserve short my pc usb ports at the same time. My bluetooth dongle got disconnected right away after recognizing "usb descriptor failed".
I will try to get the voltmeter to find out which one registers 1.8v and 0v
When you short the points you have to do a LONG power press. (You did know that?)
USB descriptor failed is usually when the USB block wasn't initialized and your host had problems getting the device descriptor.
You should just hook up your USB hardware protocol analyzer. What? You don't have one?
It could be that they were very sneaky with the test points. If you can't find somebody who has done this on this model you could be in for a search.
I do recall that some EDL points are hidden under the "mezzanine" connectors. (Those are the four connector you pull up with your fingernails.)
Renate said:
When you short the points you have to do a LONG power press. (You did know that?)
USB descriptor failed is usually when the USB block wasn't initialized and your host had problems getting the device descriptor.
You should just hook up your USB hardware protocol analyzer. What? You don't have one?
It could be that they were very sneaky with the test points. If you can't find somebody who has done this on this model you could be in for a search.
I do recall that some EDL points are hidden under the "mezzanine" connectors. (Those are the four connector you pull up with your fingernails.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wait, LONG power press? i only plug usb c while shorting...
and i don't have USB hardware protocol analyzer
Okay... maybe i should wait a bit more... this device is relatively new and like you said, EDL points may be hidden
No, leave the USB cord plugged in. Connect your test point. LONG power press, maybe 5-10 seconds until something changes.
If you're in Windows it should bong. Under Windows it can be difficult if the driver isn't/hasn't been loaded.
The stuff with "EDL cables" and plugging in cables is dependent on what/whether the OEM put the option in the XBL/SBL1.
Heck, are you sure that it's not in EDL mode anyway? If the bootloaders are very corrupt it will just go there by itself.
You need to look in Device Manager, or get UsbView.exe and make sure if it's presenting as anything.
When you remove/insert the USB cable does it bong? Or just "bad descriptor"?
Renate said:
No, leave the USB cord plugged in. Connect your test point. LONG power press, maybe 5-10 seconds until something changes.
If you're in Windows it should bong. Under Windows it can be difficult if the driver isn't/hasn't been loaded.
The stuff with "EDL cables" and plugging in cables is dependent on what/whether the OEM put the option in the XBL/SBL1.
Heck, are you sure that it's not in EDL mode anyway? If the bootloaders are very corrupt it will just go there by itself.
You need to look in Device Manager, or get UsbView.exe and make sure if it's presenting as anything.
When you remove/insert the USB cable does it bong? Or just "bad descriptor"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i actually found the test points and booted into 9008!!! YES!!
You reminded that their test points could be hidden, which is indeed the case for this device... OMG!
They are hidden underneath the micro camera!!
Now i just need msm tool to flash the device.
Thank you so much
For anyone who needs help with finding the edl test points, here you are:
Great sleuthing!
For your next steps maybe look at this post/thread: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...bootloader-and-fastboot.4471601/post-87186739
Thank you so much.
I will keep this in my back pocket as someone just helped me flashed the device...
Again, much appreciated your valuable knowledge!
henryhan123 said:
Thank you so much.
I will keep this in my back pocket as someone just helped me flashed the device...
Again, much appreciated your valuable knowledge!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello. I have a disassembled Realme Q3S smartphone. I can only connect to Edl Mode. Please tell me how you unbricked your smartphone? Which program? Who helped you?
henryhan123 said:
For anyone who needs help with finding the edl test points, here you are:View attachment 5666449
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey man, Im having the same problem as you, 0 reponse from the phone, buttons and usb do nothing. I opened it and tried shorting the 2 pins you show but still nothing happens. holding the power button I see nothing on windows. installed the qualcomm drivers, but they dont show up on device manager. do you have any ideas what could be? how do I know its on edl without MSM login?
Did you short the test point while doing a long power button reset?
You can UsbView.exe https://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Utilities.htm#MicrosoftUSBView to look for a device that is 05c6/9008
You should be able to find it there if you have no driver, the Qualcomm driver or the generic WinUSB driver.
Do you see some random COM port under Device Manager? That's the Qualcomm driver.
dick_vigarista said:
hey man, Im having the same problem as you, 0 reponse from the phone, buttons and usb do nothing. I opened it and tried shorting the 2 pins you show but still nothing happens. holding the power button I see nothing on windows. installed the qualcomm drivers, but they dont show up on device manager. do you have any ideas what could be? how do I know its on edl without MSM login?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
not sure what happened to your device but the photo has helped a few ppl already. Make sure you are shorting the correct pins. They are hidden beneath the smallest camera, which means you have to remove the camera.
1. unplug usb cable
2. disconnect the battery ribbon and remove the smallest camera
3. install Qualcomm 9008 driver
3. start shorting the 2 pins
4. keep holding on the short and then plug usb cable
5. after 5 sec, you should hear a sound from your windows, and your device manager should show the 9008 device.
6. flash stock rom via MSM
I'm still unclear about this whole business about plugging in the USB cable.
It seems to me that that is all dependent on the higher software.
The EDL test points are a 1.8V source and a GPIO pin with a pull-down resistor.
On my SDM636 it's GPIO57. On a rooted sytem I can write "57" to /sys/class/gpio/export then read /sys/class/gpio/gpio57/value
Code:
Poke3:/sys/class/gpio # echo 57 > export
Poke3:/sys/class/gpio # ls -l
...
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 0 2022-09-11 06:45 gpio57 -> ../../devices/soc/3000000.pinctrl/gpio/gpio57
...
Poke3:/sys/class/gpio # cat gpio57/value
0
Poke3:/sys/class/gpio # cat gpio57/value
1
Running a normal Android system I can play with the GPIO and plug/unplug the USB all day long without anything happening.
This is not to say that maybe fastboot or recovery or aboot or a different kernel doesn't keep an eye out for these conditions.
What is clear is that the ROM bootloader which runs at full reset does check the GPIO.
Moreover, that is entirely independent of any software.
Therefore I recommend leaving the cable in and do a long power button reset.
Also, I'm too uncoordinated to plug in a cable while shorting test points.
Renate said:
I'm still unclear about this whole business about plugging in the USB cable.
It seems to me that that is all dependent on the higher software.
The EDL test points are a 1.8V source and a GPIO pin with a pull-down resistor.
On my SDM636 it's GPIO57. On a rooted sytem I can write "57" to /sys/class/gpio/export then read /sys/class/gpio/gpio57/value
Code:
Poke3:/sys/class/gpio # echo 57 > export
Poke3:/sys/class/gpio # ls -l
...
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 0 2022-09-11 06:45 gpio57 -> ../../devices/soc/3000000.pinctrl/gpio/gpio57
...
Poke3:/sys/class/gpio # cat gpio57/value
0
Poke3:/sys/class/gpio # cat gpio57/value
1
Running a normal Android system I can play with the GPIO and plug/unplug the USB all day long without anything happening.
This is not to say that maybe fastboot or recovery or aboot or a different kernel doesn't keep an eye out for these conditions.
What is clear is that the ROM bootloader which runs at full reset does check the GPIO.
Moreover, that is entirely independent of any software.
Therefore I recommend leaving the cable in and do a long power button reset.
Also, I'm too uncoordinated to plug in a cable while shorting test points.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yah... this realme gt2 pro is awkward. It completely freezes everything, and becomes unresponsive to any buttons if the phone detects damaged boot image files (or maybe infinite boot loop...).
Though I am not sure if usb is needed in order to enter EDL... The only behavior i noticed for my phone is that if i stop shorting the pins, the phone automatically exits EDL mode within few sec, and then re-enter into the hard bricked mode. This is why i have the step of shorting pins and connecting usb to a PC so that MSM tool can be used on the PC.
henryhan123 said:
The only behavior i noticed for my phone is that if i stop shorting the pins, the phone automatically exits EDL mode within few sec...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wait, so when you are actually using EDL mode to do something you have to keep the test points shorted???
I have a few (4?) Qualcomm devices and when you get them in EDL mode (by shorting test points) they will sit there patiently forever (with open test points).
I've been working with EDL sometimes, forget about it and it's still active hours later.
I was helping somebody with a wrecked system and when it was in EDL it rebooted every 5 seconds back to EDL.
I never figured out what was going on, but if you could get your task done in time it worked out fine.
If I had the device in hand I might have figured it out.
Maybe another watchdog?
Are you sure that your device isn't resetting every n seconds and the (still) shorted test points gets you a new EDL session?
Hi guys, tried, tried and tried. And after trying a bunch of times it finally worked, now I have 9008 showing on device manager, thanks to you guys. Now I just need to find someone to go on MSM hehe, if you guys know someone pls let me know.... thank you guys for all the tips. It worked with cable plugged holding the power button and shorting.... but for some reason Had to try a bunch of times to finally work.
It can be tricky sometimes to make a good connection across the test points.
If it wackles for the millisecond that the processor is checking then it won't work.
I've never even seen the MSM tool, I prefer to just do it all myself.
Renate said:
It can be tricky sometimes to make a good connection across the test points.
If it wackles for the millisecond that the processor is checking then it won't work.
I've never even seen the MSM tool, I prefer to just do it all myself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
is it possible to do myself? I did not know. I would rather not have a stranger connecting on my computer too. can you give me some direction on how to do myself? thanks