[Q] 40-pin Connector - Eee Pad Transformer Accessories

Unfortunately, my cat chewed off my 40-pin usb charging cable and I'm going nuts atm... so has anyone found anywhere that might sell a cable like this? I looked pretty much all the online places and they're none existence, perhaps if i take it to local phone shops, will they be able to solder it up?

jc.extreme said:
Unfortunately, my cat chewed off my 40-pin usb charging cable and I'm going nuts atm... so has anyone found anywhere that might sell a cable like this? I looked pretty much all the online places and they're none existence, perhaps if i take it to local phone shops, will they be able to solder it up?
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Click to collapse
To be honest i do not think they sell those separately yet
My first guess is to call Asus directly, and tell them what happened and they might send you a new one or let you buy one over the phone if you feel comfortable doing that
Or even contact them on Facebook they actually monitor that very well
As for the cable splice, i am not sure of any phone shops that would do that, at least in my area, maybe a electronics repair shop would be better, probably charge you an arm and a leg though
If i had bought a dock with my transformer, i would send you my extra cable

SlimDan22 said:
If i had bought a dock with my transformer, i would send you my extra cable
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Click to collapse
No extra cable with the dock...unless I got shorted one.

So I spent over an hour talking on the phone with them this morning, apparently, they don't even have a part number for the cable, I even had to convince them that this doesn't sell in the local shops first. Now they're saying there'll be a "special" team which will contact me within 24 hours to solve the problem. Sigh...I knew asus support sucks and was hoping the product to last long without needing support but...

jc.extreme said:
So I spent over an hour talking on the phone with them this morning, apparently, they don't even have a part number for the cable, I even had to convince them that this doesn't sell in the local shops first. Now they're saying there'll be a "special" team which will contact me within 24 hours to solve the problem. Sigh...I knew asus support sucks and was hoping the product to last long without needing support but...
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Click to collapse
Asus were brilliant for us when my Mum had a problem with her Eee PC a couple of years back - screen failed, got a brand new one within a week. Couldn't argue at all!

It does seem vary by product, hopefully they'll contact me soon.

jc.extreme said:
So I spent over an hour talking on the phone with them this morning, apparently, they don't even have a part number for the cable, I even had to convince them that this doesn't sell in the local shops first. Now they're saying there'll be a "special" team which will contact me within 24 hours to solve the problem. Sigh...I knew asus support sucks and was hoping the product to last long without needing support but...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't tell them your cat chewed it. You're better off saying it's defective and the store won't take it back and demand a replacement. When they get yours back they'll charge you for the cat-chewed cable and everyones happy.
Telling them it was your fault will not get anything done quickly, because they don't have to give you a new one. Try it the other way around and at least you can get a working cable and they'll charge the money it would have cost to sell it to you.
Hope it all works out.

ddrstreak said:
No extra cable with the dock...unless I got shorted one.
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My bad, i thought the dock came with a cable because that would be the most obvious thing to include , guess i was wrong lol

I called again later and on the third time was able to get a RMA for it, sent it to the service center right afterwards so hopefully I can get a phone call sometimes next week about the payment. But from what they said, it seems like they don't have these things on stock for replacement, kinda sucks since I'll be out of country in a week and half.

I've never repaired a cable before, so I haven't a clue what I'm talking about, but if the wires inside of the cable are color coded, I bet with a pair of wire strippers and a little solder and electrical tape, you might be able to do the job yourself.

hotelmode said:
I've never repaired a cable before, so I haven't a clue what I'm talking about, but if the wires inside of the cable are color coded, I bet with a pair of wire strippers and a little solder and electrical tape, you might be able to do the job yourself.
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Click to collapse
I peaked through the opening of the cable, the wires were extremely small where I could not see the inner metal wires within the cables and they seem like un-strippable (so thin that I'm afraid to break it with typical wire stripper), also there're metal wires on the outside wrapping the inner cables which are also damaged. Just gonna give up and let them send me a new one.

ASUS suggested website
BTW, one of the reps were telling me to go to this website and check if they have the cables in stock http://www.asusparts.eu/index.php
I think this will be the first place to have them if any charging/replacement kits would be available. However, currently there're nothing related to the TF.

jc.extreme said:
Unfortunately, my cat chewed off my 40-pin usb charging cable and I'm going nuts atm... so has anyone found anywhere that might sell a cable like this? I looked pretty much all the online places and they're none existence, perhaps if i take it to local phone shops, will they be able to solder it up?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now bad is it? If the 40 pin end is intact I could fix it.
~DC

hotelmode said:
I've never repaired a cable before, so I haven't a clue what I'm talking about, but if the wires inside of the cable are color coded, I bet with a pair of wire strippers and a little solder and electrical tape, you might be able to do the job yourself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm planning to pinout the 40 pin at some point. If I send you postage would you send it to me?
~DC

I wish you replied earlier, I sent it through RMA back to ASUS last friday :S

Unfortunately they are not available yet. But here is a link for the power cord.
http://www.excaliberpc.com/606705/asus-transformer-tf101-ac-adapter.html

Gary_S said:
Unfortunately they are not available yet. But here is a link for the power cord.
http://www.excaliberpc.com/606705/asus-transformer-tf101-ac-adapter.html
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I found out that they listed them over last weekend, also sent them an email asking when the cables will be available.
They replied:
transformer is now delayed to mid-June.
Sorry to have to give you the bad news...
But im not sure if they're talking about the tablet or cables, gonna ask them again and see what they reply.

Sorry you are having to cope with the problem. It's got to be very frustrating. I'm waiting for my TF to arrive from Amazon. It will be at least a month from order to delivery, but that's got to be less frustrating than having it in your hands, and not being able to use it.
I'm sure the USB connection for charging uses only 3 or 4 wires, so it might be relatively easy to temporarily wire it, but at best, it would be highly vulnerable to breakage. I think you made the right choice to RMA it back and get a new one.
I have a quick question for anyone that already has a charging cable. Approximately how long is it? I looked at the picture in the link, with it wrapped up, but it doesn't look very long. Anything less than 6' will be less than perfect for me, although I could use a USB extension cable if necessary.

My power adapter died on me today!! I can charge with usb from my PC and now im using an old iphoneac adapter to charge with. It is really slow though, gained 1% in about 10 minutes....

rcm_rx7 said:
My power adapter died on me today!! I can charge with usb from my PC and now im using an old iphoneac adapter to charge with. It is really slow though, gained 1% in about 10 minutes....
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Find a universal USB charger for an iPad. It should charge the TF while powered off, or at least with the screen off. It will take longer to charge, of course, but it should do the job.

Related

Just How Long Did your Charger/USB Data Cable Last???

I am not quite sure as to the variation of included accessories from carrier to carrier but this is a question to at least the Tilt 2 owners and anyone else who's Touch Pro 2 came with that handy charger which has on one end a small block housinga flip up wall plug and on the other a female USB connection, this came with an USB to mini USB cable. The reason I ask is that after purchasing mine in February the mini end to the cable has completely come apart. It actually started within weeks of getting the phone. When I saw what was happening I wrapped it with some splice tape thinking it would be fine, but nope. The end fell out the other day and I was shocked to find that the small metal end was seated into the decidedly softer plastic plug in no more than maybe 1/32". How is something that is the junction for a lot of force anytime one moves the phone supposed to last with this kind of construction. AT&T says they warranty everything in the box? Nope. They will give you a wall charger that they retail for $29 as opposed to sending you the cable which retails for $10 less. My suspicion is that they are well aware of the fragile nature of this cable and so would rather you have something less likely to need replacement, at least while one is still under warranty. So I was curious if others have experienced this and if so, what did you do? Is there something to replace it with that is built better? OEM or not, I would love to know. I won't even go into what HTC said, but lets just say they are of a split mind on what to do.
I don't understand when you say that part is under a lot of force. I just don't see this with normal use.
Cords in general are not known for being durable, and prone to failure. But I agree that failure after 3 months is ridiculous. I've had mine since October, and it works fine. I also have the original cable for the old Tilt, which is 2-1/2 years old now, and well as the old charger (cord is not detachable). Admittedly, I probably don't use the newer USB cable as much as others, since I have these old accessories, which are still used with my Tilt2.
It sounds like ATT is willing to give you a new charger (with non-detachable cable), but not a new cable? That does seem odd. If you need a new cord, get one from Amazon or similar, it cost about $3.50 shipped.
http://www.amazon.com/HTC-Cable-Shadow-Diamond-myTouch/dp/B002CZQ2IK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=wireless&qid=1274720016&sr=8-1
im in the same boat as OP. Althought his seems to have lasted longer, LOL. Mine started to pull away from the usb b type end after the second week of having the device. Lucky for me i had some electrical tape and as soon as i noticed it i wraped it up good. I also have pleanty of usb to usb b cords laying arround seeing as i own a ps3 also. If you have any you can just use them they fit quite well and work fine.
redpoint73 said:
I don't understand when you say that part is under a lot of force. I just don't see this with normal use.
Cords in general are not known for being durable, and prone to failure. But I agree that failure after 3 months is ridiculous. I've had mine since October, and it works fine. I also have the original cable for the old Tilt, which is 2-1/2 years old now, and well as the old charger (cord is not detachable). Admittedly, I probably don't use the newer USB cable as much as others, since I have these old accessories, which are still used with my Tilt2.
It sounds like ATT is willing to give you a new charger (with non-detachable cable), but not a new cable? That does seem odd. If you need a new cord, get one from Amazon or similar, it cost about $3.50 shipped.
http://www.amazon.com/HTC-Cable-Shadow-Diamond-myTouch/dp/B002CZQ2IK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=wireless&qid=1274720016&sr=8-1
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What I mean by force is imagine that point where the mini usb meets the phone as a lever point. So when the phone moves at all, you go to pick it up you bump it,what have you, that is where all of the stress forces will be at play. Considering that point is just a tiny piece of metal and plastic that is only inset about 1/32" what can you expect. The new versions have been redesigned, si I am sure they know. I am also pretty sure this is why neither HTC nor AT&T will carry them in their warranty department. In fact, AT& T doesn't deal with Tilt 2's at all at their service centers. Funny that HTC passed Apple in sales this quarter but might have forgotten Apples hard learned lesson that they received when it was realized that the iPod's battery could not be replaced. The Phones are great, the accessories they by from someone else ordinarily so they are hit and miss
And yeah 1 L0v3 my HtC, I just learned that any mini USB will do. I thought that the ends were proprietary and so the would be hard to find but the different shape fits afterall which is what I am using now.
I have never used mine. I've used my old Motorola charger from day one.
nerv666999 said:
What I mean by force is imagine that point where the mini usb meets the phone as a lever point. So when the phone moves at all, you go to pick it up you bump it,what have you, that is where all of the stress forces will be at play.
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Click to collapse
Yep, that's what I figured you meant. Just doesn't seem like much force to me at all. Sure, cables have a stress point right at the plug, and that is where almost all cables go bad eventually. But if your device is just sitting there, plugged in, I don't see how much stress is being applied to it, even if you bump it.
redpoint73 said:
Yep, that's what I figured you meant. Just doesn't seem like much force to me at all. Sure, cables have a stress point right at the plug, and that is where almost all cables go bad eventually. But if your device is just sitting there, plugged in, I don't see how much stress is being applied to it, even if you bump it.
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Click to collapse
I empathize with the OP. I have thrown away a number of older cables due to short circuits at that junction. It no so bad, unless it shorts out during a flash... :eek At any rate, I now wiggle them before initiating a flash. I also bought new cables with the HTC connector and no longer use mini usb.
I have a number of 'antique' cables and chargers from my 6800 days and a number of newer ones. All are working just fine.

[Q] [q] tf101 hardware mods inside dock pictures!!!!!

Thread for hardware mods
POSTING INTERNAL tf101 pictures
like 3g dongle ? internal sd cards? ssd?
removing the battery for 2 HDD 500go?
finding sd cards hubs? usb to sata cables?
? there is a place in the tablet for a 3g dongle?
there are 2 screws under the upper rubbers and the dock open easy
there is a lot of spaces avaible
My MIFI might actually fit in there, all I would need to do is supply it power somehow.
I'm no hardware engineer though, but if thats possible it would save you from the driver issues with a 3g dongle.
I wonder if it would be possible to check which pins from the adapter connect to USB - so we can make DIY USB adapter for those without a dock.
hmm adding an hdd would be very interesting, sata won't be very hard, powersupply will be.
Sent from my O2x with CM7
This is what I was looking for, looking to do some mods to the dock.
Thanks Markolino72.
Internally mount and wire a 32gb memory stick to the USB port so you get a 32gb hard drive added whenever you dock It might even have enough room for a portable USB hub so you don't lose use of the external usb port?
does anybody think it will be easy to make a DIY dock fix for those with battery draining issues like me?
It seems like it would be relatively easy - just make a switch to either connect or disconnect the cords coming from the docking point.
Or even better, maybe if you put the correct microcontroller in there you can have it switch the pins to floating, if it senses that there is no tablet connected (not sure about the details though)...
ydnality said:
does anybody think it will be easy to make a DIY dock fix for those with battery draining issues like me?
It seems like it would be relatively easy - just make a switch to either connect or disconnect the cords coming from the docking point.
Or even better, maybe if you put the correct microcontroller in there you can have it switch the pins to floating, if it senses that there is no tablet connected (not sure about the details though)...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you seen the post in the General forum (2nd page now I think)? Posted by Asus_USA themselves, if you prove the 6 steps that your dock has the issue you can get a new one! I really do hope that I can get mine exchanged, waiting on a reply from my local service center..
Regards.
In regards to the hardware mods, that really looks amazing. Would love to put in my mifi there as well, attach it via USB to charge = your own 3g model Maybe a little modding you could get the mifi to power on only when the dock is connected (remove the battery of the mifi?) so that when it powers on it'll power on the mifi as well. Only a few thoughts.
Maybe a little modding you could get the mifi to power on only when the dock is connected (remove the battery of the mifi?) so that when it powers on it'll power on the mifi as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it's a good thought but the mifi I have (novatel 2200) wont work without the battery, for some reason if the battery is bad or removed you cannot run usb, it must be the way they have the power run through the battery or charging. Not sure if all are like this or not.
andrewklau said:
Have you seen the post in the General forum (2nd page now I think)? Posted by Asus_USA themselves, if you prove the 6 steps that your dock has the issue you can get a new one! I really do hope that I can get mine exchanged, waiting on a reply from my local service center..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I talked to the Asus service rep about it. They currently won't give you a new one since they have a hardware upgrade to fix it. If you wanted a new one you needed to do before they solved the problem. I'm waiting on the upgrade part to be delivered for for mine. Should in a few days.
A switch should theoretically work. The guy at the service center said the replace something that goes into the hinge of the dock. Looking at the teardown pics, you can see a wire goes into each side of the hinge, so I think they replace the wires and maybe make a new connection somewhere on the dock.
Surprising how much wasted space there seems to be in the dock -- it's nowhere near as tightly packaged as the tablet itself. Looks like Asus can optimize the size or fit some more features in future versions, if they want...
Let me see if I am thinking correctly...Your saying using something like mifi installed via USB wires (will it be always on?) then connect via WiFi on your transformer? So basically your putting the mifi in a case that can never be opened without a screwdriver? I guess one would always have access for your other devices as well as long as the TF is in the vicinity.
P.S. I think I think this is a good idea, not decided though. I like to think of it in a real world application.
there is another post with a guy putting in an SSD, but it bulges at the keyboard. A 32g SD card would be nice.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using XDA Premium App
typci said:
I talked to the Asus service rep about it. They currently won't give you a new one since they have a hardware upgrade to fix it. If you wanted a new one you needed to do before they solved the problem. I'm waiting on the upgrade part to be delivered for for mine. Should in a few days.
A switch should theoretically work. The guy at the service center said the replace something that goes into the hinge of the dock. Looking at the teardown pics, you can see a wire goes into each side of the hinge, so I think they replace the wires and maybe make a new connection somewhere on the dock.
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You are getting the replacement part? bought mine on the US, but live in chile... would really like to somehow get the part that needs to be replaced and do it myself
tanguita said:
You are getting the replacement part? bought mine on the US, but live in chile... would really like to somehow get the part that needs to be replaced and do it myself
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There's very little chance they'll give anybody the part, and nothing in the previous person's post suggested they're doing so for him.
Talk to Asus Chile and get it serviced by them:
http://www.asuschile.cl/
http://latin.asus.com/Static_WebPage/Service_center_chile/
knoxploration said:
There's very little chance they'll give anybody the part, and nothing in the previous person's post suggested they're doing so for him.
Talk to Asus Chile and get it serviced by them:
http://www.asuschile.cl/
http://latin.asus.com/Static_WebPage/Service_center_chile/
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Well I ended up calling them. I would have to ship the dock to "someone" in the US, have them ship it to the repair center, fix it, ship it back and then ask that "someone" to ship it back to me... sooo, I'm basically screwed... I ended up with a nice 150US paperweight (not even considering the horrible light bleed on the transformer).
tanguita said:
Well I ended up calling them. I would have to ship the dock to "someone" in the US, have them ship it to the repair center, fix it, ship it back and then ask that "someone" to ship it back to me... sooo, I'm basically screwed... I ended up with a nice 150US paperweight (not even considering the horrible light bleed on the transformer).
Click to expand...
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Yeah, actually, I hadn't realized that but it does say it clearly on the product warranty page:
"Brazil and South American countries don’t support global service"
http://support.asus.com/warranty.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=20&s=16&m=Eee Pad Transformer TF101
took mine apart also and there is quite a bit of room.
i plan on putting a 128gb usb flash drive inside the dock and soldering onto the usb connections once i get all the bits in.
Any bigger pictures? Are the screws under the rubber feet?
just two screws under the rubber feet near the hinge then it just pulls apart from the top
had to take mine apart as the spring/clip mechanism for the sd card wouldnt lock the card in.
now the card is stuck in with no nails haha a simple fix.
This is good news. I hacked a Crystal HD decoder card (pcie), USB wifi dongle, a logitech nano receiver, and a 4 port micro usb hub (from a touch screen setup) into a Dell mini 9 and there was absolutely no room compared to this.
They even have covers for the USB ports, so if you remove a header and solder wires up you just have to hot glue / epoxy that cover from the back and you are money. Looks clean and stock.
I have an old 64 GB thumbdrive that might find a new home. Maybe a 1.8" usb HDD would fit in there with the battery, without the battery who knows.

My wall charger lasted 1 month.. power supply is dead

Already dead. Wont charge the Prime. I called them, that was a real treat - I was on the line for 35 minutes as he researched the "issue" and we worked out the details I have 2 Prime's in the family, tested them back and fourth and 1 is dead - cable is fine, the little black power supply box is toast.
Now I get the joy of sending it back, on my dime For a product of this size, and this value, is it worth it for them to spend 35 minutes on the phone, me send it back, them check it, send me one back... for a $5 piece. Jeeezz just send me one already as it is going to cost $100 in man power to deal with the stupid thing. And the hoops i had to go through to try to prove this power supply was tied to my on record Prime, it was a joke. Total Joke and now we will be out of the power supply for maybe 10 days or more & she is leaving town in a few days. Plus, you get the joy of them sending you an RMA email that is like 3 pages long and looks like it was formatted by a 5th grader. Ugh.
Lock-N-Load said:
Already dead. Wont charge the Prime. I called them, that was a real treat - I was on the line for 35 minutes as he researched the "issue" and we worked out the details I have 2 Prime's in the family, tested them back and fourth and 1 is dead - cable is fine, the little black power supply box is toast.
Now I get the joy of sending it back, on my dime For a product of this size, and this value, is it worth it for them to spend 35 minutes on the phone, me send it back, them check it, send me one back... for a $5 piece. Jeeezz just send me one already as it is going to cost $100 in man power to deal with the stupid thing. And the hoops i had to go through to try to prove this power supply was tied to my on record Prime, it was a joke. Total Joke and now we will be out of the power supply for maybe 10 days or more & she is leaving town in a few days. Plus, you get the joy of them sending you an RMA email that is like 3 pages long and looks like it was formatted by a 5th grader. Ugh.
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This is the first post where someone is complaining that I actually felt like you had a real complaint against the company. That is outrageous. You have more patience than I do. I would have just bought a new one and said screw it. Sorry for your troubles, though. Do you like your Prime otherwise? Mine will be here Monday and am hoping I have no issues.
EDIT: I say only post. That's an exaggeration. This is one of very few posts that I've read where I actually feel sorry for you. Too many on here are just whiners. Granted, this is just a vent post, but I think it's rather warranted in my opinion.
Lock-N-Load said:
Already dead. Wont charge the Prime. I called them, that was a real treat - I was on the line for 35 minutes as he researched the "issue" and we worked out the details I have 2 Prime's in the family, tested them back and fourth and 1 is dead - cable is fine, the little black power supply box is toast.
Now I get the joy of sending it back, on my dime For a product of this size, and this value, is it worth it for them to spend 35 minutes on the phone, me send it back, them check it, send me one back... for a $5 piece. Jeeezz just send me one already as it is going to cost $100 in man power to deal with the stupid thing. And the hoops i had to go through to try to prove this power supply was tied to my on record Prime, it was a joke. Total Joke and now we will be out of the power supply for maybe 10 days or more & she is leaving town in a few days. Plus, you get the joy of them sending you an RMA email that is like 3 pages long and looks like it was formatted by a 5th grader. Ugh.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My first transformer had a bad power adapter, I had to go purchase another one from staples. This one that came with the prime is exact same thing, except the removing prongs aren't foldable and the cable is longer. Also my previous adapter chipped in an area...it's pretty fragile.
Dang, that sux. Better take off overclock and put it in Power/battery savings mode
Lock-N-Load said:
Already dead. Wont charge the Prime. I called them, that was a real treat - I was on the line for 35 minutes as he researched the "issue" and we worked out the details I have 2 Prime's in the family, tested them back and fourth and 1 is dead - cable is fine, the little black power supply box is toast.
Now I get the joy of sending it back, on my dime For a product of this size, and this value, is it worth it for them to spend 35 minutes on the phone, me send it back, them check it, send me one back... for a $5 piece. Jeeezz just send me one already as it is going to cost $100 in man power to deal with the stupid thing. And the hoops i had to go through to try to prove this power supply was tied to my on record Prime, it was a joke. Total Joke and now we will be out of the power supply for maybe 10 days or more & she is leaving town in a few days. Plus, you get the joy of them sending you an RMA email that is like 3 pages long and looks like it was formatted by a 5th grader. Ugh.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since it's a usb plug adapter, can you use another usb plug from another device? I know I can switch plugs between my HTC, Sony Ericsson, and Motorola phones with the same usb plug adapter.
That does suck. Have you tried the freezer trick? Put it in a ziploc then put it in the freezer for like 15 minutes.
My charger "died" within like a week, but the freezer trick fixed it and its been going fine since then. After being in the freezer the thin plastic piece that has the actual prongs in it was displaced a few mm from the larger plastic piece, so I just pushed it back into place and it worked.
Worth a shot before sending it in if you haven't already
BongoBong said:
That does suck. Have you tried the freezer trick? Put it in a ziploc then put it in the freezer for like 15 minutes.
My charger "died" within like a week, but the freezer trick fixed it and its been going fine since then. After being in the freezer the thin plastic piece that has the actual prongs in it was displaced a few mm from the larger plastic piece, so I just pushed it back into place and it worked.
Worth a shot before sending it in if you haven't already
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh yeah, +1 for this. I've heard this works because of the temp lock on the charger. Sometimes it gets stuck and won't let it charge anymore. Good find. Someone give this man a thanks because I'm all out because of all of the ICS goodness going on in the Rezound forums lol
hairdewx said:
Since it's a usb plug adapter, can you use another usb plug from another device? I know I can switch plugs between my HTC, Sony Ericsson, and Motorola phones with the same usb plug adapter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
IIRC the prime has some abnormal voltage requirements so your mileage may vary there.
tdrussell said:
IIRC the prime has some abnormal voltage requirements so your mileage may vary there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think another adapter works. The transformer use to be able to charge via usb on the computer, but it took about 24 hours to fully charge from a computer usb port. The prime doesn't seem to charge at all, when I plug it in, it doesn't say "charging".
hairdewx said:
Since it's a usb plug adapter, can you use another usb plug from another device? I know I can switch plugs between my HTC, Sony Ericsson, and Motorola phones with the same usb plug adapter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope... I tried one from an iPod, a Griffin, and a generic one. None would work. They do specifically mention in their manual only use "their" charger.. I dont care about stuff like that but turns out, the 3 I tried would not work
BongoBong said:
That does suck. Have you tried the freezer trick? Put it in a ziploc then put it in the freezer for like 15 minutes.
My charger "died" within like a week, but the freezer trick fixed it and its been going fine since then. After being in the freezer the thin plastic piece that has the actual prongs in it was displaced a few mm from the larger plastic piece, so I just pushed it back into place and it worked.
Worth a shot before sending it in if you haven't already
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Gonna pass and here is why.. surely in that power supply is a motherboard or solder and if you freeze it and then heat it (as powers runs through) you can create fine hair cracks in the solder. So, it seems totally illogical to me.
Interesting, So which type or cable and power adapter should we buy for the prime if needed? we cannot use some "generic" kind?
I would just go ham on the tech support and make them send me one for free.
Sent from my Galaxy S2
I hammered the **** out of them about it just because they took so damn long for such a petty thing & how cheap the piece is and absurd amount of time and effort it will take, they weren't having it.
They and I all have bigger fish to fry, but I was just so annoyed by the interaction and amount of effort I now have to expend.
Awe man that sucks. What you need to do its call and act super crazy. Like change up your accent in between sentences, talk loud and then really soft. Yell at them and then pretend to cry and apologize for yelling. That usually makes em feel really bad and sorry for me and then they are like ok, we will make an exception.
Make sure you talking to high level support though, lower level ppl have no authority. Ask then what level they are and ask to be escalated. Be really nice to them too.
This actually works btw. Have gotten a hp laptop battery replaced after it was out of warranty, a early phone upgrade for my friend on att, and also a free slingbox dvr from dish.
Sent from my Galaxy S2
ravizzle said:
Awe man that sucks. What you need to do its call and act super crazy. Like change up your accent in between sentences, talk loud and then really soft. Yell at them and then pretend to cry and apologize for yelling. That usually makes em feel really bad and sorry for me and then they are like ok, we will make an exception.
Make sure you talking to high level support though, lower level ppl have no authority. Ask then what level they are and ask to be escalated. Be really nice to them too.
This actually works btw. Have gotten a hp laptop battery replaced after it was out of warranty, a early phone upgrade for my friend on att, and also a free slingbox dvr from dish.
Sent from my Galaxy S2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
BWaaa ha ha LOL this is the trick I plan to use the next time I have to attend Jury Duty
I think the reason the others won't work is a lot of those smaller chargers for phones and things are 5 volt and the prime wants a 12 or 15 volt or something. At least I thought that's what the prime charger had listed in it's specs.
I suppose if radio shack had a generic wall usb charger listed higher it should work. The Prime/TF101 chargers are like $30...
Why do you have to pay for shipping?
There is something I don't understand here. Why do you have to pay to ship the unit to Asus if you didn't break it? I'd understand you'd have to pay to get it back if they discover that it broke because of you but why do you have to pay to get a warranty repair?
Lock-N-Load said:
Gonna pass and here is why.. surely in that power supply is a motherboard or solder and if you freeze it and then heat it (as powers runs through) you can create fine hair cracks in the solder. So, it seems totally illogical to me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you worried about a catastrophic failure if your hypothetical situation occurs? Also considering it "freezing" is a bit off since you can't freeze a solid, you are simply cooling it.
Considering there are plenty of electronics that work outside in the winter without problems to their soldering as far as I am aware, I would think cooling your adapter shouldn't be a huge risk.
My USB Charger died as well... In fact It worked only 1 time !
I received my TF201 Wednesday (jan 18th) and the usb charger worked like a charm the first time. I played with the TF201 until the battery was at 1% and I plugged it on the charger then... nothing (no orange lights and no charging icons on the screen). I submit a RMA for this (and for the light bleeds, I'm so lucky).
Now I have to charge my TF201 with regular usb charger but It only charges the TF201 if it is turned off and it takes FOREVER to charge (after 12h of charging = 72%).
I wonder if it would charge faster if I plug on my computer (I got usb3 ports)...

Defective mico-USB connector

Guys, I'm convinced the usb connector on my 9 month old TP is defective and gets worse each time I use it. I had bought a touchstone charger to ease the connector wear but still, I was eventually having problems with USB data connectivity using store bought cables. I even sent my TP in to fix the connector and when I got it back, still no USB connectivity. Just a completely wiped TP. So HP sent me one of their "genuine" silver dot cables and low and behold it worked fine. (My original cable was lost)
Now, months later, I'm having problems with the USB data connection again. I either get the "Not enough current message" in WebOS or no MTP USB symbol in CM9. Sometimes the PC will chime positively but with an error message (can't detect device). I received another genuine HP cable and it behaves the same as the other one. Inserting them normally, they appear to be in tight, the PC will chime but Windows will say that there's a problem, can't detect device. The only way to get it to work is to insert the microusb side at a 45 degree angle tilted downward and hold it in for 5 seconds, then (ever so slowly) release the pressure to the connector. 50% of the time I'll get a Windows message that says the USB is degraded and run slower than normal (which I think means it thinks its in USB1.1 slow xfer mode) and 50% it works fine at USB 2.0 (until I pull the cable out of the connector). I also have 2 store bought cables that won't ever successfully connect to USB with the TP but work fine with my Samsung cell in both charging and xferring music over to the phone.
So what I'm getting at here is that no standard microusb cable is the same and that there must be something special about the HP genuine one. Do these cables have a resistor on pin 4 ID tied to GND pin 5? Even so, I think what is wearing the most is pins 1 & 2 and maybe 3 (VCC and the data pins) which is why it may only work by concentrating on seating those pins first. Does it make sense that the 'can't detect device' message comes up with just the data lines and ground connected but no VCC? For that matter, why would the battery symbol in CM9 always show the lightning bolt assuming pin 1 VCC is not connected?
I'd appreciate any responses from other members here since I believe without USB the TP could be bricked in case some boot code gets corrupt and you are forced into WebOS recovery mode. This has never happened to me yet and I've installed a lot of nightlies but it COULD happen, no guarantees. What is inevitable is my connector will eventually wear out and my TP will only live until the bootloader DOES get corrupt, hopefully later than sooner. This could be the case with all TP's. Just imagine if in a couple of years everyone's TP's USB port goes bad. Sounds like the devs should figure out a way to fix a bricked TP wirelessly, if that's at all possible.
Thanks,
synchron
One of my Touchpad's had the same problem in Webos it said using wrong charger may not charge or something similar and with Android ie nightly the charging signal came up but it did not charge.
I spoke to HP and pointed out that I have 2 Tablets and that swapping leads or chargers made no difference all combinations worked on one but not the other.
They agreed to fix it and replaced the part. It is now working fine. And as with yours my computer failed to recognize the tablet properly.19 times out of 20 on the one time it did I was able to back up and remove Android before HP picked it up.
I would send it back under warranty or if that has expired state that it was preexisting. Otherwise as you said it is going to become pretty much unusable.
Don't let them fob you off.
Good luck
spaceosc said:
if u bought it during the fire sale u have about a week till (8/20) the one year warranty expires.
http://kb.hpwebos.com/wps/portal/kb/na/touchpad/touchpad/wifi/supportservices/page_en.html
go to palm support and CHAT with them. do not call cuz that cost money.
once u get an RMA they will send a box and take care of Shipping.
then go here to wipe and remove android
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1426244
once wiped send it in and your speaker will be fixed, it will take about a week.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
from another thread
sstar said:
One of my Touchpad's had the same problem in Webos it said using wrong charger may not charge or something similar and with Android ie nightly the charging signal came up but it did not charge.
I spoke to HP and pointed out that I have 2 Tablets and that swapping leads or chargers made no difference all combinations worked on one but not the other.
They agreed to fix it and replaced the part. It is now working fine. And as with yours my computer failed to recognize the tablet properly.19 times out of 20 on the one time it did I was able to back up and remove Android before HP picked it up.
I would send it back under warranty or if that has expired state that it was preexisting. Otherwise as you said it is going to become pretty much unusable.
Don't let them fob you off.
Good luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
spaceosc said:
from another thread
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanx for your prompt responses. I bought my TP at the 2nd fire sale through BB in early Nov so I still got a few more months but I would rather wait a bit more since they did nothing the 1st time around. I think the connector is on some daughter board along with the vibrate device which is soldered to the main board. Doesn't sound like a big deal to repair it. Still, what makes the HP cable different then the others? Are there known cables I can get online that might be made better to always work and make better contact than the HP ones?
Synchron
synchron50 said:
Thanx for your prompt responses. I bought my TP at the 2nd fire sale through BB in early Nov so I still got a few more months but I would rather wait a bit more since they did nothing the 1st time around. I think the connector is on some daughter board along with the vibrate device which is soldered to the main board. Doesn't sound like a big deal to repair it. Still, what makes the HP cable different then the others? Are there known cables I can get online that might be made better to always work and make better contact than the HP ones?
Synchron
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dont wait, ive sent my TP in 3 times, 1st time for charging port, 2nd for a crack around the speaker, 3rd for a busted speaker.
spaceosc said:
dont wait, ive sent my TP in 3 times, 1st time for charging port, 2nd for a crack around the speaker, 3rd for a busted speaker.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your advice. Did they fix everything that was intended? Was turn around time no longer than 2 weeks for each repair? When was your last repair (busted speaker) done? Is your serial number the same or did you ever get a replacement (meaning a refurbished one) back?
Thanks
synchron50 said:
Thanks for your advice. Did they fix everything that was intended? Was turn around time no longer than 2 weeks for each repair? When was your last repair (busted speaker) done? Is your serial number the same or did you ever get a replacement (meaning a refurbished one) back?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i keep track of the serials and they always came back the same. i have more than one pad and i asked for one to be replaced completely. we will see if that happens. but they fix only what u ask for and nothing else.
it can take longer depending on Weekends. takes 2 days to get your box, then 2 days to get it to HP, then 3- 4 days to get your fixed unit. its all done thru UPS, cant send it out on the weekends or receive it
spaceosc said:
i keep track of the serials and they always came back the same. i have more than one pad and i asked for one to be replaced completely. we will see if that happens. but they fix only what u ask for and nothing else.
it can take longer depending on Weekends. takes 2 days to get your box, then 2 days to get it to HP, then 3- 4 days to get your fixed unit. its all done thru UPS, cant send it out on the weekends or receive it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, you are giving me hope to try again while my warranty is still good. Maybe I'll put a big note on the screen PLEASE REPLACE USB CONNECTOR - wouldn't hurt.
Synchron50
I know this is really old, but im finding my self with similar issues and no warrenty
synchron50 said:
Guys, I'm convinced the usb connector on my 9 month old TP is defective and gets worse each time I use it. I had bought a touchstone charger to ease the connector wear but still, I was eventually having problems with USB data connectivity using store bought cables. I even sent my TP in to fix the connector and when I got it back, still no USB connectivity. Just a completely wiped TP. So HP sent me one of their "genuine" silver dot cables and low and behold it worked fine. (My original cable was lost)
Now, months later, I'm having problems with the USB data connection again. I either get the "Not enough current message" in WebOS or no MTP USB symbol in CM9. Sometimes the PC will chime positively but with an error message (can't detect device). I received another genuine HP cable and it behaves the same as the other one. Inserting them normally, they appear to be in tight, the PC will chime but Windows will say that there's a problem, can't detect device. The only way to get it to work is to insert the microusb side at a 45 degree angle tilted downward and hold it in for 5 seconds, then (ever so slowly) release the pressure to the connector. 50% of the time I'll get a Windows message that says the USB is degraded and run slower than normal (which I think means it thinks its in USB1.1 slow xfer mode) and 50% it works fine at USB 2.0 (until I pull the cable out of the connector). I also have 2 store bought cables that won't ever successfully connect to USB with the TP but work fine with my Samsung cell in both charging and xferring music over to the phone.
So what I'm getting at here is that no standard microusb cable is the same and that there must be something special about the HP genuine one. Do these cables have a resistor on pin 4 ID tied to GND pin 5? Even so, I think what is wearing the most is pins 1 & 2 and maybe 3 (VCC and the data pins) which is why it may only work by concentrating on seating those pins first. Does it make sense that the 'can't detect device' message comes up with just the data lines and ground connected but no VCC? For that matter, why would the battery symbol in CM9 always show the lightning bolt assuming pin 1 VCC is not connected?
I'd appreciate any responses from other members here since I believe without USB the TP could be bricked in case some boot code gets corrupt and you are forced into WebOS recovery mode. This has never happened to me yet and I've installed a lot of nightlies but it COULD happen, no guarantees. What is inevitable is my connector will eventually wear out and my TP will only live until the bootloader DOES get corrupt, hopefully later than sooner. This could be the case with all TP's. Just imagine if in a couple of years everyone's TP's USB port goes bad. Sounds like the devs should figure out a way to fix a bricked TP wirelessly, if that's at all possible.
Thanks,
synchron
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi all. I know this thread is really old, but I'm finding myself dealing with similar issues. And I'm obviously out of warranty. I can't get windows, linux, or Toolbox to pick up the USB. I'm actually in a worse case scenario mention here and am stuck in meboot, TWRP, and WebOS recovery, because I had wiped the rom. It must be an issue with the USB port, I've lost track of my original Hp touchpad OEM cable, and have tried every USB cable I can find. Any help would be appreciated.

Charging Cradle No Longer Charging

Before I begin, if there is already a thread outlining this particular problem, I apologize in advance.
Yesterday my Truesmart was in the charging cradle sitting on my desk, not realizing it, I accidentally opened a draw which pulled on the USB cable, dragging my Truesmart off of the desk and onto the floor. My truesmart fell about 2 feet and is fine, but the charging cradle will no longer charge it. I would assume that something broke in the cradle when it fell, which justifies the pathetic quality of it, although there is no visual damage on the cradle and when shaken nothing rattles around inside of the cradle.
My question is what should I do now? I am almost certain that it is the cradle that is the problem and not the Truesmart or the USB as the watch will still turn on and the USB will charge other devices. I have tried different power sources and different USBs and I only have one cradle. Is there anything I should troubleshoot in order to try and get the cradle working? Or is is possible that the problem is with the watch?
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
The spring contacts in the cradle may have gotten smushed in a bit by the impact. Try prying them up gently with like a needle.
Otherwise, the solders connecting the microUSB connector inside the cradle might have failed. They have been reported to be of poor quality on another owner's cradle with cold solders. Try resoldering them if probing them shows them not good connections anymore.
Thirdly, maybe your USB cable itself was damaged in the drop. Test it too.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
I tried what you suggested with the needle and it didn't make any difference, they seem to be at the right position anyway.
I have a feeling it might be the solders, as it is possible that the sudden shock of the microUSB inside of the port caused something to break. Unfortunately I do not have any knowledge of soldering nor the equipment to do it. I wouldn't know how to open up the cradle without breaking it anyway.
I already tested the USB cable, it charges anything else, and I have tried other USBs with the Truesmart to make sure that it is infact the cradle.
I have sent Magan (may or may not have spelt her name right) two emails and have received no response.
Asking omate for another cradle is useless. Omate is focusing on shipping units not cradles. I know this because my cradle stopped working also. The solder on the female USB plug had failed. I took it into a local electronic repair shop and they resoldered a new plug on. They also asked me what doll or store I pitched the charger at.
I've been thinking of replacing the spring contacts with actual pogo pins. It's silly that the charger doesn't utilize them to begin with.
Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
rhineymac said:
Asking omate for another cradle is useless. Omate is focusing on shipping units not cradles. I know this because my cradle stopped working also. The solder on the female USB plug had failed. I took it into a local electronic repair shop and they resoldered a new plug on. They also asked me what doll or store I pitched the charger at.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am aware but I figured it was worth a shot since my order was missing a keychain that I was told would ship "soon".
I might look into taking it into a shop, how much did it cost you to do that? And I didn't understand your last sentence.
He mistyped "dollar store".
Apparently they have such cheap budget shops up in Canada too. I get my colored USB cables from them, they say, " Made in China" on them and generally last a couple of weeks.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Have you had the back of the watch off? If so loosen all 4 screws then tighten the 2 where the charge pins are first - then tighten the other end, where the buttons and camera is, last. I had an issue where the watch would not charge after reinstalling the back. I think the internal contact pins barley contact the flexible plastic copper pads. I originally crisscrossed tightened the screws and it wouldn't charge. If I have to install the back cover again I will most likely add a thin layer of something underneath the cable pad to help close the gap and provide a more solid contact for the internal pins. I could visibly see where there was maybe 2 out of the 4 pins making adequate contact.
Oops yes I ment dollar store. It didn't cost me much. $10 but the guy told me that it wouldn't last long, which it didn't, it stopped charging my ts today. He told me that its cheap, pure and simple. I was suppose to receive a spare that I paid for. When I asked about it I was told they won't ship it until after all KS and preorders were shipped. Omates way of telling me that I'm SOL
rhineymac said:
Oops yes I ment dollar store. It didn't cost me much. $10 but the guy told me that it wouldn't last long, which it didn't, it stopped charging my ts today. He told me that its cheap, pure and simple. I was suppose to receive a spare that I paid for. When I asked about it I was told they won't ship it until after all KS and preorders were shipped. Omates way of telling me that I'm SOL
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I realized you meant dollar store shortly after posting lol, unfortunately I have even seen nicer chargers at the dollar store. $10 isn't bad but I guess at that price it makes sense to get a new charger if possible. I love how I am fortunate to have a semi-working watch but can't even use it because I don't have a working charger. Thanks for all of your help Omate -.-
SkyHawkTech said:
Have you had the back of the watch off? If so loosen all 4 screws then tighten the 2 where the charge pins are first - then tighten the other end, where the buttons and camera is, last. I had an issue where the watch would not charge after reinstalling the back. I think the internal contact pins barley contact the flexible plastic copper pads. I originally crisscrossed tightened the screws and it wouldn't charge. If I have to install the back cover again I will most likely add a thin layer of something underneath the cable pad to help close the gap and provide a more solid contact for the internal pins. I could visibly see where there was maybe 2 out of the 4 pins making adequate contact.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the back off of the watch once, after putting it back on it worked fine up until I dropped it. The watch will turn on, it just won't charge. I will try your suggestion anyway when I have my watch around though. The assembly of the watch is disgustingly poor, there is what looks like dried glue seeping out of the SIM slot of my watch. Very lucky to have no issues with buttons or pin contact and etc.
Agent. said:
I realized you meant dollar store shortly after posting lol, unfortunately I have even seen nicer chargers at the dollar store. $10 isn't bad but I guess at that price it makes sense to get a new charger if possible. I love how I am fortunate to have a semi-working watch but can't even use it because I don't have a working charger. Thanks for all of your help Omate -.-
I had the back off of the watch once, after putting it back on it worked fine up until I dropped it. The watch will turn on, it just won't charge. I will try your suggestion anyway when I have my watch around though. The assembly of the watch is disgustingly poor, there is what looks like dried glue seeping out of the SIM slot of my watch. Very lucky to have no issues with buttons or pin contact and etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the problem ive had with the charger is the female usb port. its very loose. i wonder if we will ever see the xtra things we paid for, xtra chargers, tshirts sd cards. its bad enough that the watch is a mess, but to have a propriatiery charger is just icing on the cake. theres not way of fixing it. well there is,but it only lasted a week. the guy who fixed mine laughed at me and told me you get what u pay for. This is only partly true, the charger was $5 but isnt worth $1
You could make a charger with a dollar store USB charging cable you cut up to expose the +5 and gnd wires, then tape them to the right pins on the back of the watch, carefully.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
rhineymac said:
the problem ive had with the charger is the female usb port. its very loose. i wonder if we will ever see the xtra things we paid for, xtra chargers, tshirts sd cards. its bad enough that the watch is a mess, but to have a propriatiery charger is just icing on the cake. theres not way of fixing it. well there is,but it only lasted a week. the guy who fixed mine laughed at me and told me you get what u pay for. This is only partly true, the charger was $5 but isnt worth $1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty sure mine is the female USB port too, as my watch was plugged in when it fell so I assume the shock of the male USB caused it to break. Your guess is as good as mine as to if they ever plan on actually fulfilling their promises, they have done a pretty crummy job thus far. The charger is absolute junk, at least if we had the charging cable they initially promised we might be able to work with it a bit more.
trent999 said:
You could make a charger with a dollar store USB charging cable you cut up to expose the +5 and gnd wires, then tape them to the right pins on the back of the watch, carefully.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That isn't a bad idea for a temporary fix but the fact that it even comes down to doing something like that is absurd in my opinion, the charger should have been done and ready while they were dealing with all of the other BS issues.
Well, remember that for most owners the charging cradle they received works fine. It is not that poorly designed - mostly failures reported have been due to shoddy assembly. Similarly careless assembly has been reported on the watch itself in various areas.
I got my extra charger I ordered via Kickstarter, included in the package, but have never tested it nor needed to. I also figured out a way to charge the spare battery with an Anker universal charger, just in case. That charger came free with a couple of VGNexus batteries I bought from Amazon.
You might have better luck with the USB port repair staying fixed if you support its attachment to the board, such as it is, with an application of SuperGlue prior to resoldering the connections.
Holding a cable connector in place via only the contact solders would always be a bad design though.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

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